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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/28/21 in all areas

  1. I've found this thing great as a daily! It's easy to drive through town, gets parks easy, uses almost no fuel, seats 4 adults and is also good for runs to Bunnings. The problem with driving it daily is you have to watch out for the other muppets out there. I had a Tiida give me a little nudge in the rear in town. He must have known I couldn't catch him because he took off the other way never to be seen again. Fortunately Classic Cover were great and it was all sorted through work without any probs. It was also a good excuse to cut and polish the paint to see how good it could get. It came up better than I was expecting! Although I'm aware I'd better not get the car looking too nice, this thing is too much fun to park up in a shed again. Next winter the engine may come out for some oil leaks, a shuddering clutch and refit that crank handle, but for now we are just going to drive it and keep fixing any issues that pop up.
    24 points
  2. Dropped the head off at Rods Engine Services on the recommendation of @nzstato and very happy with ol' mate Rodney's work. Turned into a bit of a mare but Rodney sorted me out, all for a very reasonable price. Sidesharn follows: The first head i dropped off in November was the car one, as they both looked like poop, the van head had some corrosion around the exhaust ports, and the car one didnt. Rod sucked his teeth, and took the head, as well as a set of nos valves and new valve stems, and would see what he could do with the seats, i said no real rush but i would like to get it before xmas. he didnt get onto it until mid-December, and unfortunately it turned out the car head was cracked between the valves on 2 of the cylinders. DANG Not only is it cracked, the surface inside the chambers looks porous and banged up. "Nevermind!" I said to Rod, i said, "i have another head that might work, or might be just as shit?, we will see!", so dropped the Van head back off the next day, and on initial look he thought this one would be much better. Got it back only a week later (i think he felt bad about having the cracked for so long and then ringing me with bad news after about 3 seconds of looking at it!, lol) . Cam back with a very lightest tickles of a skim (close to the edge of the inlet valves even without any skimming), and he supplied supply and fitted new valve seats, and also fit my supplied new valve guides. He also resurfaced the NOS valves i left with him to remove the 'nos' surface patina rust). He also installed them, along with holden o-rings valve stem guides whcih i wasn't expecting as id left the old manky springs and collets etc and had a clean set on the bench waiting, but im not swapping them around now! All for a very reasonable sum. Very high recommendations for Rods Engine Services in Fox St, Dunedin, A+ would give head again. Check out how smooth the casting in the chambers is compared to the car one above! Side sharn ends. TLTR:, 'spare' head was total crap, original head from the van that i thought was poop actually turned out to be a minter! This is the exhaust port corrosion that made me initially chose the other head as the first/best candidate. There was a matching 'outie' of rust on the exhaust manifold which must have been galvanically corroding while it was sitting in mouse piss wet? Its all inside the gasket tho, so its not really an issue anyway. I did a very light 'porting' tho really more of a slight smoothing as the exhaust manifold is a good match to the head already and seems to be made from tool steel and on only had one spare belt for the belt sander, sooo. So, took the jumbo rubbish bag off the already assembled block to jam this back together and gave the gasket surfaces a good wipe down with wax and grease remover Plonk! Plus new water pump and thermostat. Water pump takes a late model Fiat 1500 water pump pulley ( as also used on lada ) rather than the heavy fixed fan, ill run an electric one, probably set up as a pusher (not much room in the bay, but lots in the radiator tunnel) Then installed the Valve gear (the van set was better starting point after sitting both in the Exoff for the last week) so I installed that after selecting the best of the adjustment nuts, tappets and pushrods from from the two sets (plus a couple of NOS bits i already had collected as 2300 spares). then the inlet and exhaust valves are all adjusted to 0.2mm, which on this engine you have to do when a cylinders valves are 'balanced' (which is about 9deg BTDC on the opposite cylinder) which is basically how you can be 'certain' the cam shaft lobes are pointing directly away the tappets or on the base circle, which can be tricky to find otherwise as these engines dont have many useful timing marks In fact the FSM book uses a special tool (whcih is just degree wheel) mounted to the flywheel, suggesting proper valve adjustment is an engine out job!). Got that all done, then install the inlet manifold with rebuilt Solex BIC (i noticed the throttle shaft play is really quite bad tho) and the special 4:1 van exhaust manifold (that kicks the exhaust out a hole in the side of the engine bay into the drivers wheel well!) Dizzy and the sweet purple solid core wires i got cheap with some other odd fiat stuff from ebay, They have been run on the ute before i switched to electronic ignition And checking out all the hoses and stuff to see what i needed and what i dont and can go in the bin or storage. The car inlet manifold is for a twin downdraft carb, so there is also room for some pretty solid performance gains over the single pumper and skinny runners, and but fitment is likely to be an issue (have found that the Weber DCD of which i have 3 in various states in the stash looks like the best candidate width wise so that may happen sooner than the exhaust, but ill worry about that much later. The car exhaust manifold is a 4:2 setup with long secondaries in the exhaust pipes, compared to the 4:1 into pea shooter of the van one and would be significantly less restrictive, but it kicks the exhaust forwards towards the generator, and im not sure there is room to scoot the pipes between the engine/generator and the chassis rails. These vans were originally designed in the early 1950s for a post war design 1100cc engine, but by the mid 1960s they were shoe honing these alloy head 1500cc big boys in which are almost half as big again in displacement, and probably more than half as big externally and so its all a pretty tight squeeze as it is Need a few bits and pieces like a 11A0955 drive belt, and various hoses, but its basically ready to sling back in the hole, but the hole needs a bit more work first.
    16 points
  3. Well. 'Murca didn't get back to me so I went with a UK sourced kit. Bugeye, stock-ish wing width & an engine cover with no air intake hump type thing. Should be here in a month. Gonna be simple 60's looking, not some thinly veiled, rear engined, tube framed Trophy Truck Anyhoo, afternoon in the shed. Sayonara shakotan... Wings off Swapped spindles back to stock. Standard right, dropped left. *edit* Just realised pic is upside down, I s'pose. That or I rolled it on the Baja 1000. Gained about 5 inches with the old rear tyres swapped to front. Will aim for a bit more profile to get it level. No suspension lift though. Surprisingly solid underneath, I'll tidy it all up & do the interior next. Gold roll cage, fur headlining and hopefully sort out the "filled" dash.
    15 points
  4. Finally got back to this. Revised the tooling a bit and tried a longer test piece. Came out usably OK I think. Quick squirt of zinc it just to remove the reflections. I haven't filled the holes in this test one, but they'll need to be done for the proper pieces.
    14 points
  5. After getting the WOF and the bloody cheap rego we took it all over the place, slowly increasing the distance from home as breakdowns became less frequent. Over the last 6 months I've had to replace the intake gasket and carb needle & seat. The points burn out regularly, I think the New Old Stock condenser is too Old. The front dampener fell off and the crank handle fell out. Various other components have come loose so a regular tightening of everything was needed for the first wee while. The fuel sender float would slowly fill up with fuel, that took a few goes to plug up. Other than that i changed out all the fluids & adjusted the brakes a few times as they settled down. After all that we took it out to Oxford for the big snow they had. It did pretty well with the wife, 2 kids and the dog! It clapped out at 50mph with no issues. It was a bit sketchy coming home in the dark though, the 6 volt headlights don't do much. We took it out to Oxford a few times after that, and also dragged it up to Godley head. That one did stretch the thermo-syphon cooling system! The biggest cost came when the front tyres wore down. Turns out they were retreads from 1978, so they did pretty well. A pair set me back $400!
    13 points
  6. Discussion here... As mentioned on another thread, I picked this up the other day. It was restored by a character by the name of Burt Williamson some time in the early 70's. He loved the thing and made a very detailed diary of all the little modifications and repairs he did on it. He then had the diary copied and bound for the other Austin boys to reference for their repairs, a true Barry. When he passed in the 80's my wife's Grandfather took it on and got a few thousand miles on it. When he passed in 2001 the family weren't sure what to do with it so it was parked up. That's when I said it's about time it was enjoyed, so I got the job of getting it back on the road. So 20 years after it was parked up, with air in the tyres from last century, I hooked up its little a-frame and dragged it across town. First was to give it a good clean. It was in really good condition from its dry storage, no real rust to speak of. The right side of the car took a little bit of UV so the rubber is a bit sad. The paint came up nicely after getting rid of the priceless barn find dust. So I'm slowly finding out more about these things. It's a '38 Austin 7 Ruby with the stronger 3 bearing crank & a 4 speed box. It even has syncros on 3 gears! The brakes are mechanical cable so no pesky hydraulics to overhaul. As you can see old Bert had thrown a few extras at her with indicators, a reverse light and an optimistic tow ball! Thankfully they had the presence of mind to keep the rego on hold all this time, so it's just a case of getting it running and get a WOF...
    12 points
  7. DRZ problem solved, put it back together (with the head/barrel off) put it on trademe, sold, guy picked it up and didn't even haggle on price. Mint. While he was picking it up, @Ash-he came and picked up the passola as well so 2 bikes gone in one morning Now I can concentrate my 2 wheeled efforts on this one. Have ordered a complete exhaust which should be here early Jan. A system for a CB900RR is a bolt on with a couple of easy mods, headers are slightly different and gets rid of the twin mufflers and goes to a conventional single side muff which will tidy the bum up a bit
    12 points
  8. The engine had a bit of work done 40 years ago, but only around 4000miles ago. After winding over on the crank handle it was obvious it only had compression on 3 cylinders. Luckily it was only down to a stuck valve. Next was fuel. The tank had a quarter of rotten gas so it came out and I gave it a thorough steam clean. The fuel pump diaphragm was stuffed so a new one went in. Then no spark due to stuffed points and condenser was sorted. After that and a new battery and she flicked into life pretty easily. After that it was just a case of cleaning some switch contacts, getting new keys cut, wiring up the generator correctly and getting a WOF sticker on.
    11 points
  9. Long time no update. nothing really has happened to this thing other than being strapped the the dyno with various junk engines. Current one being a long rod 4age, 7a block, 4a crank custom rods, smallport pistons. modified bigport head with 193b cams. so yeh just a polished turd. has all the blot-on's off my good engine and the main reason i actually took the good engine out and put junker in, is this abomination Its something Ive wanted to do since forever ago. actually made some parts way back. but ran into issues and all got to hard basket. about 500 years past and attempted it again with a little help from a machinist friend. Intake cam pulley looks a little weird? Thats because its a vvt pulley off a 20v. They are just a simple on off 2 position deal. with 30 deg travel After some teething issues, managed to do some initial testing today The pink line is what it makes with my normal fixed timing. which is quite aggressively advanced. basically as much as can go, to gain all the midrange with minimal loss at peak. the downside is power drops fast after peak power Red line is with vvt on from start of run, which a touch more advance that what it normally runs. Then switches off a 7300 retarding intake cam 30 degrees little red line is a "stockish" bigport engine. for reference Great success? or did i just build a v8 that idles are 6000rpm
    6 points
  10. For peace of mind, I got the plum bob and long straight edges out and did some measuring. The subframe is centered left/right across the car measuring from the wheel arch. Yay. And, since there is no suspension at the front, I used the front cross member mounting holes to make two points on the floor and draw a line through them, then measure back to the spots I made for each rear wheel center. Only 5mm difference side to side. Which I think is about 0.05 degrees. The two points I took from the front were not very far apart, so drawing a line through them would have exaggerated any errors, so I think 5mm is not bad. It is a 70's triumph after all.
    5 points
  11. knocked up an ALT bracket ( not pretty but its strong and works ) even the standard pinto fan belt fits means i have room on the other side now for all the other shit made a bracket for the crank sensor found the best place for the EWP and put the washer bottle back in factory spot so with the ALT thats 4 more things in place before wiring. the plan is.....,wire up car and electric water pump stuff. , do fuel system . , . do brakes ,, do coolant , do ecu, , do interior
    3 points
  12. Finally finished paint and looks stunning. Now to start putting it all back together again
    3 points
  13. Cut cut bend bend weld weld. And filled some holes.
    3 points
  14. Further progress. Need to work out a new solution now. Standard master cylinders are a no go with ITBs especially if I want to run any kind of air filter.
    3 points
  15. Its a ball ache to get out of the garage so I went out and got some of those dolly go jacks so I can just drive it in now and dont have to jack the front and rear up with a trolly jack to slide it over to the side. Kind of rocking my dream setup of cars now. Only thing I would like to add would be a 90s NSX but than can wait till I get more space. For now I spend a fair bit of time just having a couple cold ones and admiring the garage art while I wait for my damn parts to arrive
    3 points
  16. See it here in all its 80's goodness... @dave123456789 Noice!!! I am quite jealous. I have only driven one of these before and it left me quite smitten... I can only dream of such cars so instead I'll cobble together my own baby version from something leaky and British. You are going to have to update your wardrobe though. You need bigger hair and more shoulder pads... Please can you do the right thing by us all here at oldschool and fill your thread with videos of your car at full throttle etc - if only as inspiration for me to pull finger.
    2 points
  17. thought I would see how the small LED lights are at night when it's dark. not bad.... 1 of the dark pics is the boot and one is the engine bay....
    2 points
  18. Back pre quake there was a book store at the easternmost end of Chester street east, just west of Criton Cobbers. In the window they were displaying a large lubrication chart for these cars. It showed all the places they require oil/grease, and how often. What stuck in my mind, (indeed the only part I can remember) was that it said it needed a few drops of oil on top of the steering column (presumably to lube the steering shaft inside the column) applied weekly. Cars of this era must have left ALL of the gasoline rainbows everywhere in their day.
    2 points
  19. I work with @JustHarry at Auto Restorations. We do see some pretty cool cars come through
    2 points
  20. It's not often your partner comes back from supermarket ( and past the painters ) and says " i have just seen 2 people working on your car .. ) " . This was at 8pm on Boxing day ! Awesome progress and big ups to Carl @ Calibre Collision.
    2 points
  21. I did a chunk more yesterday so it is looking way more complete, however I probably need to pay attention to family matters for the next couple of days, or so I have been told. I am slightly mystified as the the reasons for this but I have learnt to read the signs.
    2 points
  22. Well, the rear mounts are in. Already feels pretty solid. The boot hinge brackets are probably helping too since they tie the top of the wheel well to the boxed in section of the parcel tray. Still some more welding to do here, I haven't finished welding the back side of the corners, which I'm doing so I can linish back the weld on the visible side. Then all the big gaps to span and some plating. I'm using 1.6mm for both.
    2 points
  23. Successful trip to Auckland today- mocked up for now but plenty of cleaning/painting to do!
    2 points
  24. Anyways…. Cut a long story short…. k drove it as is to get a road worthy from the local mechanic, then went on my merry way to get a set of plates and license it. turned out the orings the injector place I had overhaul my injectors supplied me were too small and I had a severe vacuum leak. Changed them, readjusted my secondary butterfly because it was off seated at idle and the old girl hasn’t missed a beat yet. 750ks, a couple of tanks of gas and lots of smiles has been had so far. almost time for oil change and a few more revs!!!
    2 points
  25. A couple of weeks later the rotating assembly and plates arrived…. To my horror. I didn’t remember the plates returning so harsh when nitrited back in Nz. make a few calls, and sent a few msgs out in dismay but was resigned to the fact I was going to need to remove the slag looking surface by hand…. Took to the task with rum in hand on the kitchen table and spent from memory 14 hours over the entire weekend stoning and then finishing with wet n dry sand paper
    2 points
  26. Mostly picture less update So I think I had a kind of a mid life crisis at the beginning of the year and suddenly had a hankering for something a bit quicker- a B7 Audi RS4 wagon was top of the list but being a risk manager I started looking at ongoing running costs and the prices jumping about $10k in the space of a couple of months so back to the drawing board. Started to look more closely at upgrading the Cortina and giving myself a bit of an project. Im an office worker not a fabricator but I do have plenty of experience with Lego- so started looking into options that fit that niche and very quickly stumbled upon Retroford in the UK- and then promptly got carried away ordering a huge chunk of their catalogue - after being scammed trying to buy an engine in NZ they even sourced an engine and gearbox for me. I paid my money and waited and waited and waited - thanks COVID! My pallet was on the dock in Singapore for so long I was wondering if it needed a Visa. But it’s finally here in NZ and I should get it before Christmas - not quite the winter project I was planning but it’s here, well in Auckland. Will hopefully have more regular updates in the coming months (years?)
    2 points
  27. Because I'm an impatient bastard, I chopped some springs and found some cheap 17's for it. Will now begin saving for some FC adjustables. Took it to Meremere yesterday for it's longest drive in NZ so far, did about 8-9 runs as well, it's damn slow but still good fun having a few races.
    2 points
  28. I decided I wanted a bigger bike, I'd been going over all sorts of different options for ages but ended up leaning towards something japanese and reliable I went into a harley dealer once but felt weird, like when your aunty sees you walk out of an adult video store Thanks to @MACKAZ for having a look at it for me , it was in whangarei so I got biketranz to deliver it Pretty happy with it, I always find it interesting to see how the type of vehicle it is, influences how you ride/drive it. I thought a big bike may encourage riding like a diddle and going 1 million kph everywhere but this is the opposite, because it's so smooth and torquey it's quite happy bumbling around at the speed limit, whereas DRZ kind of ends up brappp everywhere because it's not very smooth at lower rpm It's about as exciting to look at as a mid 00s camry though so I'll do some cosmetic stuff so it doesn't look like I'm on my way to a Ulysses club run
    2 points
  29. Round two Cleaned up the old sill a bit more so I could check what I was doing. Cur the step into the lower form and clamped that down too Worked out better. I'll extend the press tool a bit more and hopefully get less of a crease for round 3. Also got the other one back from the painters after a month in paint shop / covid jail. The damage to the roof from the roof rack has been fixed up nicely.
    2 points
  30. Just heat it up gently with a blowtorch until the van sinks to the height you wants... * *I do not stand by my suggestion ** ** but do it anyway and report back here with results for our amusement.
    1 point
  31. You could upgrade it with a morris 8 engine!
    1 point
  32. Depends how original you want to keep it - but I'd put something like a Pertronix on it to replace the points. Failing that, the biggest Bosch condenser on the shelf at CAE in Hornby. Good to see one in regular use. Mate had one years back. We picked it up and put it neatly between two parking meters on Hereford st one noght while he was inside. i think he had to get a crowd from the nearest pub to help him extract it.
    1 point
  33. Looking very nice on this side, unfortunately the other side has a bog crack in the door and im unsure how ill fix, got no paint left and dont really want to end up with a different shade on the door... so may leave it there will have to vinyl wrap the bottom chrome to finish
    1 point
  34. SO much more access to weld the back of the strut towers now. It will go back in later, but trying to contort my arms through it to get good welding angles was a bitch. I also needed to make some space for the propshaft universal.
    1 point
  35. Took it to Keith Stewart to go on the dyno to be run in and get a tune put on it. Had zero issues, made 120.6hp atw. Will get some km's on it and take in back for a fine tune, should still have another 1000 or so rpm in it I'd imagine! Made an aluminium sump bash guard and that finished off everything on the underside. Couldn't find any good bumper end caps, so I drew one up in solidworks and my brother 3D printed out a couple to take some moulds off, so then we could make some fibreglass ones. Pretty happy with how they turned out! Far tidier than the old warped and cracked factory plastic ones. Had the bumpers, grill, headlight surrounds and fender mirrors painted in a metallic grey very close to the factory colour. Installed some NOS park/indicator lights that I got ages ago and put the bonnet on. That basically finishes off the exterior! Cert next!
    1 point
  36. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - RHS Floor Pan - Installation. Welding the completed RHS floor pan into the body. Below. Refinishing the soon to be inaccessible upper frame rail surfaces. I'm only doing the upper surfaces for now since this is not a restoration. I can get at the frame sides and bottoms later if I choose to do so. Probably won't though. This car has some rather stout mostly full box section framework underneath it. Very rugged. Began cleaning and stripping to bare metal. Epoxy primed. Wire harness and brake line were getting in the way. Frame painted. Sprayed some upol weld thru on the toe board, inner sill and aft lap joints. Then stripped off spots of paint for the plug welds from floor to support brackets. Did same for the mating surfaces on the floor underside. Plug weld 1/4 inch holes and surface cleanup. Then carefully positioned the floor and supported it underneath as required to adjust the gap against the tunnel edge. Fastened the sheetmetal screws against the inner sill and bolted it down on the body mounts. Double checked for level surfaces and started the well spaced tack welds against the tunnel, adjusting for a flush join as needed by pushing against any high edges. Ground down excess off the first series of tack weld heads and continued laying down several more series. Eventually filled in the entire tunnel weld seam. Then did a few plug welds to the underside support brackets and found my .030 MIG wire just a bit small. So I switched over to a spool of .035 wire for more heat and flatter weld heads. I regret the pneumatic tool punched holes I made along the edge for the toe board lap joint - convenient yet too small at 3/16 and too close to the edge. Less than the ideal size. I should have drilled them all to 1/4 or 5/16 which would have made for better penetration and flatter weld heads and thus less grinding. Followed this by crawling underneath the car and doing backside welding of the tunnel weld seam using the thicker .035 wire and more aggressive stitch welding technique with no jumping around. Worked out well but made for a lot of grinding work. That little chunk of metal missing next to the vise clamps on the far right was my trimming mistake. I patched it up later. Close up of backside welds. Welded it up hot since it was backed with the frontside welds. No holes blown through. The random holes below the weld seam were used for sheet metal screw attachments to the tunnel for temporary floor positioning and scribing a trim line. Moving on. Plug and spot welds at the aft flanges. Did a bit of overkill on the number of spot welds to the inner sill because it was so much fun! Probably three times as many as factory. Sheet metal screws were then removed and holes were plug welded. Above Inner sill spot welds to floor edge flange shown somewhat later as it was prepared for epoxy primer. A much later look toward the inner sill attachment. Jumping ahead a bit, after the outer sill was in place, a 3/8 lock pin was installed to structurally secure the side of body lift jack pipe to the under floor bracket. The pin is inserted just a bit beyond where the snout of the jacking tool can reach. Washers (not shown) are welded to the insides of the bracket to shim for negligible fore and aft play against the pipe. Hot and nasty welds. Welds filled in nicely between the chamfered pin OD and bracket hole. Sanded flush rather clean and smooth Fun shot underneath. Looking aft down the tunnel. I'll have to get that surface cleaned and painted and then stuff the transmission back in. Probably will do that in a few months in springtime. I'll post next on welding the outer sill to the car body.
    1 point
  37. Baja Bug it is ! Gonna do it. Beach buggy can wait/ get forgotten about. Got a couple of prices for bugeye kits here, just waiting to hear back from Chirco in 'Murica before I take the plunge. Messed about this arvo, going to put the stock spindles back on & then decide about ride height. Will be some sort of green in the end, but I'll save the roof. Best part of the car though I say it myself. Found this charming repair, not worried about butchering the car anymore !
    1 point
  38. warning ....long dribbling on post so its been months....just had so much shit on . works busy . kids are busy . started training again . kids have sports..ect ect ect life basically ay. my nephew killed the pinto in my old mk5 .....didnt realize there is no rev limiter or what level on the dipstick the oil needs to be at. soi told him to find another running motor and we can go through it together ill teach him how it all works and he can get to know what its like to remove and refit a motor and strip ,clean and rebuild one. .....then we went into lock down so i ended up doing it all as i knew i had other shit to do....long story short the motor was ok...the head was fucked and i had it on and off a few times...then other shit whet wrong and i eventually ended up using another head and new head bolts....but its gone now....if im honest it was a fucking nightmare..ive never had issues like this before.. in-between working on this car we had a bunch of house renovations we wanted and they all turned to shit.....apart from the guttering ...that went smoothly. had builder after builder fall through on building a deck.....and lets just say it ..im not a builder ..unless its steel im uncomfortable (still need one in chch if anyone wants a cashie in the new year) ......another long story short i built a deck and thank fuck it turned out ok. all the sides and steps are all done now....and pretty much every weekend since finishing ...its fucking rained lol so i left it a few weeks and started cleaning the garage it had 3 cars in there and was full of renovation shit ( 2 cars in there somewhere ) all cleaned and sorted iy out during the evening last week last week it was Pissing down at work so thought I would make a list of how things are going on the black mk3...kinda wish I hadn't!!!!. but I im going to try and get it done for 60 years of mk1 cortina here in chch ....it is October next year....but I do have a full time job, sports ,wife ,kids ,kids sports , and I'm a massive procrastinator .. the garage needs sorting out 1st.... but here is the list lol. enjoy shell. *unsure what's under the paint.. different shades of black , bonnet isn't even sanded , some of its ratt can. (not going to get painted till later in life.) *2 of the doors are held on with 1 bolt each ,2 doors still arnt on the car.(one of them is still.missing chrome and handle.. *bonnet not bolted on and assisting catch. * frontvand rear screens just sitting there. *front valance needs some hole drilled in it. *rear valance needs rust work doing. interior .....(empty) * have front and rear seats. *have door cards and handles (I believe). *dash is welded in and dash pad on. *have some seat belts front and rear from a mk5 (needs freeing up,cleaning, and front buckles needed). *have new carpet *have some sound deadening (on its way) * think there is a roof lining *gauge cluster ....I have pulled it apart and cleaned it and put LED lights in. Rear end. *aussie diff ...rebuild with 3.7 gears and a LSD(pinion seal still leaking....have read that you need to remove pinion nut and put sealing on the thread and then put it back on.). *needs shocks * might make a panhard rod......maybe later on. front end. *fully stripped clean ,rebuilt with all new bushes,bearings and rod ends. * needs shocks.. lights *yes front ,rear and indicators (not the best but should do the job). wiring *I have remade the loom from the tail lights to the fire wall connectors (that long ago ...I can't remember what is what.......hope I make them. *changed the old fuse box to spade fuse box and moved it into car. *no engine bay loom.. cooling *pil cooler mounted (need 1.more hose from memory). *intercooler modified and mounted (need to do piping) *radiator modified and mounted including fan and shroud...(still need to do all the hoses and piping ). *electric water.pump and controller (still.needs mounting and wiring). *air filter mounted ... *heater all.monunted (needs hoses). gearbox *yes....factory 4 speed...untested .but mounted.. *clutch and pressure plate....old ones from sitting under bench ( don't think the engine will.last so change then). motor *factory standard motor (old as fuck) just to test it all works... *stripped ,cleaned ,new gaskets and seals. *custom turbo manifold (mounted) *evo td05 turbo (mounted ) with pil feed and return done. *still.need to do coolant hoses. *still.need to do boost controller *crank trigger mounted (need to do sensor mount) *dizzy trigger made and mounted (and tested for home signal) *still need to do breather tank *iet manifold adapter made and mounted *iGTIR nlet manifold needs mounting. (still untested) *IACV set up (not tested).. *need to do inlet temp sensor *need to do vacuum lines . *FPR needs mounting *ls3 coil on plugs with buikt ignitor. ( still need mounting ). *800cc evo injectors cleaned tested mounted) *link atom x ecu (still needs mounting and wiring) fuel system. *intake pump made ,modified and mounted *tank mounted *still need to do fuel lines and hoses. *still needs wiring up. brakes. *I have a mk5 booster and master cylinder (not fitted) *need front discs *have front calipers (need to be stripped checked ,cleaned and rebuilt. * front caliper rebuild kit on its way *I have spacer kit for front calipers. *rear shoes on the way *rear cylinders on the way *no brake lines or hoses. wheels *yes 13x7 hotwire ......(need some tyres) and probably a heap more shit... so i made a start yesterday i removed the rear window as the seal was in 5 bits and was going to leak like made ..and also i need to try and sort the hood lining out . the rear lower edge is mint ..nothing like the white mk3 and the parcel shelf may be the best ive seen. the passenger side floors had some foam mat shit glued down and was a pain in the arse to remove (some one has already removed the factory sound deadening...then there was orange tape over all the factory holes (no bungs ...just tape) and tape over some just holes and what looked like chisel holes .. so i fixed them all in all the floors look pretty good ....some paint and i do have a bunch of sound deadening mats on the way then today i was thinking that the biggest job may be the wiring ....so i thought if i start putting everything where i want it then it will make wiring the whole car a bit easyie. started with the wideband 02 and electric waterpump controller. i wanted to put in place some anti theft devises here is one (wont share the others). and ive had a few break downs in the dark and it sucked and the mk5 ghia had this pretty cool factory light under the bonnet and i thought if im wiring this car from scratch im going to add in some LED lights. so i bought some waterproff running board lights and switches .. 1 for the boot 2 for the engine bay and 1 big LED interior light....got the boot and engine bay ones in oh and i got some hotwires ...and sold the center caps for almost what the rims cost. well thats it .....once again sorry for the long post
    1 point
  39. First week I got straight into fixing those things that annoyed me. Firstly - stock wheel was ugly as can be plus also was way too far away from me to be comfy. Im quite tall and the wheel has no adjustment so had me leaning forward to steer. Not good. Wanted another Nardi but as the other car rocks a Nardi figured may as well get something different. Ordered myself a Momo Prototipo and an extended boss kit. Will likely get a Porsche button for the horn but will see. Now the steering wheel was out of the way it was time to work out why the shifter was so aids. Got stuck in and removed the shifter and also the rear couple and all bushings I could find. Safe to say they were all toast. Bush on the bottom just falls off plus a few inside the shifter where quite stuffed. Ordered new shifter bushings to replace everything in here. This is what connects to the rear of shift linkage. Safe to say its not supposed to be oval. Ordered a modern ball joint spec looking one to replace this. I have also ordered a new clutch cable and a couple of other minor things to just make it a bit nicer to drive and also normal wing mirrors. The last owner kept it looking mint but some parts were quite overdue to be replaced. This is where I made the rookie mistake of trusting shipping ETAs. So I ripped everything out and had it all ready for my package to arrive on the 10th..... well im still waiting and haven't driven the car since. No ideal but heres hoping its back on the road before Christmas. Been looking at exhaust setups but I think ill gut the cat first and see how it sounds and if still not as dramatic as I would like might take to the muffler and remove whatevers inside it. Dont really want to spend money on a fancy system if I will just be removing it all to turbo at a later stage.
    1 point
  40. yea right so i took this out for a good 5 hour long back road thrash. i dunno how to convey to you just how good this car is at hooning back roads, its fucking EPIC. fuck its amazing. i lose track of what this car is capable of when im just driving it to work and back every day, yea its fast and pulls like a fucking space rocket but thats only half the story. i suppose the best way to put it is that its got brakes, grip and stability to match every one of the 460kws the engine is making. and as a plus its now got better low end torque so you can just leave it in a higher gear and it will still come out of a corner like its been fired from a gun. im definitely in love with it all over again. 2021-12-11_03-04-09 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  41. Another piece to the puzzle completed. I couldnt justify the $2k + for a factory steering wheel they go for, if you can even find one and jump on it fast enough. Managed to come across one for a fair bit cheaper that had a horn pad but was missing the horn spring/housing/mechanism. Was hoping id be able to find that easy enough, Turns out it wasnt that easy and finding a complete wheel would of been easier id say! A chance conversation with Andy Duffin and he mentioned a guy who had messaged him with a damaged RX3 wheel which would have the parts i needed. A quick FB message and was able to nab the damaged wheel which had been sitting in the guys workshop for 20 years +. Was able to make a complete wheel with my decent condition one so pretty happy about that! Will help make the interior look how im planning.
    1 point
  42. Not heaps of low down torque but that makes it quite nice to ride imo. It seems to me that if you stay in the 1500-4000 range it is quite sedate, smooth, is still quick enough to get ahead of traffic etc If you use the other end of the tacho it goes pretty good though. I'm quite keen to run it at the drags, apparently they are good for mid 11s stock with a lighter rider, I'd be pretty stoked if it could do high 11s with a fatty on it
    1 point
  43. So here are some parts needed for conversion off old van, the mono spring that runs through the front is made of fibreglass and is really light, not sure why, but the one im replacing looks like a steel leaf spring type, i may use this oppertunity to lower the front too as the rear is about an inch to low. Cleaned all the crap off. Some sway bar mounts on lower arms, and the powersteering unit. The old column has a different steering wheel spline amongst other things.... I found i couldnt use the ps one to bolt in so i tried mix and matching, i think itll work, will do more on my days off soon
    1 point
  44. 1 point
  45. Oh, Nice door cards. Really should have gone for Camo though. Pity they're illegal because cyclists cant see them........
    1 point
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