Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/12/21 in Posts

  1. For ages I have wanted a small tool bench with decent wheels I could wheel across our rocky yard for working on cars/trucks/tractors outside. Its always been on the back of my mind to build but I never got around to it. Earlier this year a retired friend gave us a load of old tools and workshop stuff including his old tool cabinet. It was pretty beat up and had tiny little wheels but the drawers work really well. So now I had a base to start with. NZ made. Guessing its 80's going by the font on the sticker. NZ made wheels too... I started with the build by hacking it apart... Luckily the drawers bit I wanted was self contained.. I had kept a section of old stainless steel bench top left over from some project I cant remember. It was missing one end but I had a plan and it was always going to be used for my ideal toolbox design.. I cleaned it all up, removed all the tar like glue that was on the underside and cut, bent and welded up the other end to match. I also welded up a drain hole it had.. I ripped down some eucalypt timber and cut it into an angle profile then used it to edge the stainless, now glued onto a sheet of ply. So with the top sorted I started on a frame. I needed some wheels and I had just the ticket. I have had these two wheels stashed away from when I did my apprenticeship back in the mid 90s. I was building a scooter that used a weedeater motor but never finished it. I had thrown away the rest but kept these new wheels. I still had the bearings they came with too. I machined the ends of some thick pipe to suit and made an axle... I bought some 100mm castor wheels with locks for the back from Mitre 10. Now a frame to mount them on. I rummaged through the steel rack and found suitable stuff to use... The drawers sit in place like such... I removed the handles and Hannah cleaned the drawers up so I could lob some paint at them.. Now I could start cladding it in plywood, using stuff left over from the mezzanine build. I had a pair of 500mm drawer runners from Bunnings left over from the kitchen build. Handy for a large drawer below the others.. Folded up a bit of sheet steel for the front... Made some stainless handles to match the others... And this is where I am up to so far... My next thing to sort out is the slide up section that all my spanners will go on. Then some handles, and finish the top cover that will be hinged so it can open out doubling the top area and exposing the stainless tray. We've already had some fun today going to Bunnings and Mitre10 selecting a few tools to add, the idea being I can almost clear the work bench area fully of car related tools. Itching to get back into finishing this now
    12 points
  2. It's been an unproductive few months whilst I mull around and not get a chance to drive to Palmy to get to work on the old girl A while ago I bought one of those weld-on idle control valves and got one of my mates to apply glue to the MRP manifold, it's come out really nice 20210815_113119 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20210815_113412 by phillipbaines, on Flickr I spent a weekend going over everything. - Made the AN lines for the catch can setup - Disassemble the turbo and clean out all the crud left over from when the manifold face was machined - Heat wrap the exhaust manifold and down pipe (i didn't take a photo... idiot) - Ran the vacuum lines for the turbo - Refitted the Intake Manifold - Tighten every bolt 20211023_180622 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211023_180752 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211025_150642 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211025_150655 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211025_150703 by phillipbaines, on Flickr I've messaged Geoff at NZ Wiring and Performance and looking to get this bad boy wired end of January hopefully! This will give me time to: - Replace the fuel hose from the fuel rail to the supply line (it's not fuel hose and it's all perished...) - Replace the fuel filter - Check the driveline angles since the gearbox crossmember was recreated and ensure that we've got around 2 degree's each side of the driveshaft for a smooth ride. will space the crossmember or adjust the top 4-links, which ever requires a tinkering - Finish the vaccuum line for the master cylinder booster Discussion:
    9 points
  3. It begins The air is thick with anticipation....and 2smoke
    9 points
  4. Bring a big bike. Itl be fun they said. Smallbikes4life
    8 points
  5. More of the same suspension stuff. I bought the rubber top mounts, they were cheaper from palmside than the other place, and cheaper than the adjustables. these have a replaceable bearing too if needby, so, win. had to drill the bushing out to 12mm new bumpstops courtesy of Mr.Mk1 who I met yesterday. its great to know new people. cleaning and painting stuff, I went with blue in homage to the race teams and works cars of the day that ran bilstein shocks. pointless ultimately, but slightly more interesting than the standard rattle can black. still only have 1 side done though but I'll do the other side tomorrow. Boom. theres nothing like showing off to the Wof guy.
    7 points
  6. 7 points
  7. First breakdown about 10km into Motu. Brake drum reaction rod fell off locking the rear wheel. LOVELY SPOT FOR IT
    6 points
  8. Picked it up, took it home. Then retired back down to Wellington. 20211106_153031 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211106_153045 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211106_153105 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211106_153117 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Next on the todo list: - Tidy up all the panel gaps #1 priority - Purchase an MRP coil over kit all round - Purchase some semi slicks - Get a wheel alignment - Replace inner and outer rack ends Potentially on the todo list: - Price up a full suspension kit minus coil overs from T3 (LCA's, RCA's etc) Discussion:
    6 points
  9. As soon as I got the car I parked it up and dropped it off to me old mate @EmmyWest for a respray. it's a race car, I didn't want a show shine finish. Just for it to all be one nice colour, dents filled in etc. It's come out looking the absolute tits! 253199270_419318406502845_5729871740650857656_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 252763221_6236169743121377_4668944236914090276_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 252890840_1504851166542741_5343298070745770442_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 252904427_248725857275510_2033562718651960891_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 252927486_422076212848588_8398122880327394024_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 253086554_3157587697815542_2606469033873125234_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211106_103237 by phillipbaines, on Flickr
    6 points
  10. Minky is now under the knife. She's on the hoist and Hannah is taking her heart out. While up in the air I took the chance to snap some photos of her undercarrige. This is the first time we've actually put her on the hoist and looked underneath. WOW! She's sooo tidy and in such fantastic condition! Even the exhaust looks almost new... Here's the lowering springs. I have no idea what make they are but they are red so they must be fast... While Hannah was draining the autobox oil out.... I spotted a very exciting thing... Most JDM Marches normally have a daft arrangement where the fixed part of the caliper is cast into the strut bottom which means you can't swap in bigger/better calipers and appropriately sized bigger discs. The front brakes on this car are different to our other two cars (those two being PFL Marches) This car has front sliding calipers that mount to the struts in the usual fashion, like most cars, with two bolts. This is also the same setup that European K11 Micra have. This is fantastic news! The one thing that lets a hard driven march down is the brakes which are a bit lacking, especially on long descents like Takaka 'race' hill. I cooked the brakes on both our pfls down there. But with the Euro spec front brakes we can swap in the larger discs and calipers from a Sentra/Primera/'insert some common as muck nissan here' So yeah- happy about that !
    4 points
  11. Done a bit more wiring stuff. Chucked the battery in it, was keen to see if the clutch was working. Had it turning over in neutral, then in 1st..then tried with the clutch in..... Yay no movement.. Then tried letting the clutch out.. She's snappy, but works. So then I got keen and tried firing it up.. She ran... Too fn loud though. Exhaust is next on the list.. But it runs and moves... Pumped Now I need to figure out how to wire up this fan relay and temp switch.
    4 points
  12. Can you guys have lots of pink pussies in my honour please.
    4 points
  13. Have a bloody good time lads ! Keep up the posts and photos for all us of to envy ! Let the good times roll
    4 points
  14. Clutch line sorted..... But... The pedal is real hard to depress. The slave is like a 3/4" bore and the master is the factory hunter one, probably 1-1/8" so I'm guessing it's poorly matched and just being gay. Or just a super heavy pressure plate. However I now have a nice -3 AN line for it. It's getting pretty close to being done. I'll swap the suspension from the other car to this one, cos the rear shocks work, and the fronts are tight with proper lowering springs, I'll swap the whole leg along with the brake hoses because I'm sure the ones on this have collapsed.
    4 points
  15. Some pest has vandalized this bike Also vandalized an ankle but the hospital has signs saying no cameras.
    3 points
  16. Hello there. I've recently acquired this new vehicle amongst my Toyota fleet! Tuned 4A-GE 16v Black top with C52 gearbox on a Link Monsoon Photos supplied at time of purchase: IMG20210418170326 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164130 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164140 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164154 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164203 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164217 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164318 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164338 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418165839 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418170151 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG_20200607_152650 by phillipbaines, on Flickr
    3 points
  17. If anyone is wanting to build an EFI system there is a whole load of high quality, ruggedised EFI gear for sale from martin jetpacks right now: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/search?member_listing=326563&bof=9qt4vnAL&page=3 All $1 res
    3 points
  18. Pickapart reopened yesterday in Auckland, and there was a mad rush for all of the good stuff! I have never seen it so busy, queueing to get in, car park full, big queue getting out. Bloody hot day too, I think I suffered a bit of sunstroke in my mad rush to grab the good shit! (this was only a small part of my parts haul below BTW, lots of parts for my race car were had too!) Anyway, the point of this trip was to get some better brakes for the Mk1. They have always been a bit scary - anything more than moderate pedal pressure will lock up the rears, not ideal! After some measuring, I discovered that the rear pistons on the Lincoln calipers were 65mm, whereas the fronts on the old Falcon XA calipers were only 61mm. The brake discs are similar size front to rear. So it actually has more braking on the rear than the front, which explains its tendency to lock the rears, not ideal for any car, especially a van with a relatively light rear end ! So, the solution I reckon will work is Mk4 Mondeo rear calipers with integral handbrake, discs and cables for the back end, and AU3 Falcon 2 pot front calipers, which will fit nicely on my existing slotted DBA rotors. I will rebuilt and paint them, and need to make some suitable mounting brackets, but hopefully that should sort the brake issues! All for around $250 https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45289-browndogs-1972-v8-transit/page/4/
    3 points
  19. 2 points
  20. my 2c - for the home handyman type stuff straight co2 is the best. Downsides: -It has its limitations in that it wont spray transfer, most little welders probably won't get there anyway. -about 5-10% more splatter (in my limited experience) -Probably other things, I'm not an expert Upsides: -owner bottles in the form of fire extinguisher bottles are cheap, usually around the $300 mark full. -it stores as a liquid unlike argoshield mixes. this means that you fit a whole lot more in the bottle. This is a massive upside in my book, when I want to run mig I want it to be cheap. -Last fill I got was at gaspro, cost $45, a lot better than the $130 swappa bottles for argosheild. The chap there said its $10 per kg, its a 5kg cylinder but it was a bit too warm to get the whole 5kg in one hit that day. -Apparently runs a bit hotter than argosheild mixes would for the same amperage on short circuit mig. For little machines this might be handy. In saying that I haven't had any issues welding panel steel either so not an issue for rust repairs. I have put a good number of hours on the mig over the last few years, built a couple of trailers and lots of random crap with co2 and haven't had any cracks/breakages or weld related issues. I guess the caveat is that I also have a tig so if I want a fancy weld I can use the tig but generally I use mig for most fabrication type things. Also, I'm just a guy in a shed sticking stuff together for fun so I don't really know what I'm talking about hahaha.
    2 points
  21. Possibly not want you want to achieve but I'll add it anyway, on my townace I blocked the egr it didnt idle very well after that so I removed the throttle plate but left the actuator and shaft there all hooked up so the ecu thought it was working It ran a lot better and used less diesel
    2 points
  22. Time to make things look pretty and rustproof the chassis for its next 70 years. There was some surface rust on the rear of the chassis rails that needed to be put in its place. A couple of cups of washing soda crystals…. Add some water and connect a power supply….. Some hours later – rust soup! And no rust.
    2 points
  23. 1 point
  24. Nz new radio and trim fitted. Goes hard for what it is now. Had air conditioning regased today. The compressor is fucked and had black poo all through the lines. It kinda works on the motorway now. Will Rock auto a tx valve, filter and seal set over and find a compressor locally then find some caring and will clean the lines and condenser out in the future
    1 point
  25. Bunnings westgate is still showing coregas
    1 point
  26. Yeah I've left everything there for that same reson. Just blanked the pipe off. The solenoids are the same so will be close enough
    1 point
  27. New old stock sub for more doof Went 10" as it needs a smaller box so will be easier to live with. The 12" takes up most of the boot space
    1 point
  28. It's actually modelled after a screw driver handle thank you very much
    1 point
  29. Photoshoot on Tuesday at the Whitford Wharf for NZ Classic Car magazine. These are a couple of my crappy iphone pics, no doubt theirs will be much nicer, but you get the idea https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45289-browndogs-1972-v8-transit/page/4/
    1 point
  30. Beers 4 @Beaver! Picked up 4 new glowplugs at first light, threw them in and unsurprisingly the voltmeter now drops to 11V on pre-start, never done that in my ownership! Turn the key and the engine was tripping all over itself to start. Pretty stoked to finally have it starting with ease, hopefully the last two years of ownership haven't taken too much out of the starter. That will teach me for reading too many Land Rover barry forums that state the 300tdi doesn't need glow plugs, although I would still like to do a compression test for future reference.
    1 point
  31. Yeefucken ha it lives … After much mucking about for the last few weeks finally sorted and configured link to make some noise Engine wiring only basically breadboarded for testing just the basics crank trigger ignition injectors and fuel pump and TPS Spent so much time chasing why it would spark fine on ignition test but not when cranking - read so much link guide and forums and was almost convinced the Toyota coils I have were dumb but no Triple checked that no odd settings were doing engine kill and that all was as it should be - trigger scoped many times - changed crank sensor - nope Changed trigger 2 to “hall sensor “ sync = none …and I am only using trigger 1 36-1 wasted spark and it fucken just started and idled lumpy as Now to get some cooling hooked up tidy and wrap wiring and get some fluids into box and clutch hydraulics
    1 point
  32. Are you sure they're the right size? I've always found frost plugs fairly easy to install..
    1 point
  33. Oh hey 2-months-ago-me. Buy one of these from Supercheap Auto, pretty good bang for buck without having to change anything else: https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/blackridge-blackridge-air-sand-blast-gun-kit/340382.html#q=sandblasting&lang=en_NZ
    1 point
  34. I got a lid printed, clearances are tight. On this one I waxed up the printed part and then popped the carbon part off when it had finished. I might redo it the proper way and make a female mould so everything stays nicely flat on the outside. Because it's a bit bumpy. This needed a lot of sharp bits trimmed off because of my caveman methods. However in the meantime, from a functional perspective - it is, in fact, a lid. Still need to figure out how to seal it on nicely. To be honest it's got a few issues. The primary annoyance is that it hits the bonnet on the curved part near the headlight sometimes on decel. The angle of the pod filter pipe would be nicer if it was back a little further, on a hard decel the filter bonks the bumper sometimes. Which gives you a hell of a fright when you're half expecting a rod to fly out the block every time you're doing 8500rpm This is why I really needed a filter! I'm running on about 30% biofuel I sealed the lid on with some duct tape and it's absolutely incredible how much it's reduced the noise level compared to open trumpets. I'm seeing zero changes to the fuel table (so no indications of being a restriction) However I just cant believe how much it's killed the intake noise. It's still got a 100mm dia opening, and at least that much cross sectional area as the pipe goes up. Obviously it's not great to kill all the cool intake noises. But man I feel a whole lot better about driving it late at night around the place without annoying everyone haha. Now that I know it's definitely not restrictive as-is, I might add a bit more clearance in a few areas. I'll add a boss for the IAT sensor and a pipe fitting for crankcase vent gas. Also, all of my trackdays got cancelled. Hopefully a Meremere test day will still be going ahead in about 2 weeks. bonus content from slightly prior to the noise killing airbox
    1 point
  35. Still work to do but super stoked with this
    1 point
  36. So a few different things ABS pump / wheel speeds I've not been able to make any progress on the ABS pump swap, because I cant get to an Auckland pick a part site to grab some other wheel speed sensors. Doesnt look like I will be able to any time soon. So for now I've put the regular speedo drive back in, and wired it up. Will just repin to suit standard ABS pump. Track day next Friday! Exciting. Traction control setup Since ABS setup wont work, I have setup a timer based RPM limit instead. If vehicle speed is zero, and you are over 90% throttle. Then the rpm limit changes to 4000rpm. and a timer resets to zero. As soon as it sees that the car has started moving, the timer starts and the rpm limit starts increasing along with the timer up to the normal max. So the idea is that if the rpm goes faster than what is physically possible for the car, it must be because of wheel spin. so a few quick ignition cuts then you're on track again. It's taken a bit of trial and error to setup, but its working good so far. Green line is engine speed and yellow line is the rpm limit. So ideally on a good grippy launch you stay just below the yellow line with no intervention needed. It's not ideal and I'll still pursue getting front and rear wheel speeds. But it's pretty good in the meantime. Rear disc swap It was only $65 at pick a part for an entire disc brake rear end including hand brake cables, ABS sensors etc. So cant complain about that. The only tricky part of swapping it in, is that you need to remove the exhaust in order to remove a heat shield, to swap the hand brake cables. Certainly not the worst swap of this sort I've done. Not sure if I'll get this swapped over in time for track day next Friday. Probably a good idea to get new discs and pads. Trumpet swap So far I've had the best powerband by using some rather long trumpets. They've been through a few iterations fine tuning the angle and lengths so they dont hit the bonnet or the radiator cross member. However the current iteration that I'd settled on still ever so slightly rubs on the bonnet when the motor is under extreme movement. It's only the slightest rub so I'm not actually concerned - and only on one of them. But long term I need an airbox over them and an air filter, so there's simply not enough room. So my only real option was to put a much more aggressive bend in the trumpet and then as a result they are a fair bit shorter. But also more clearance around everything. As a result you cant fit the bolt into the bottom hole anymore, it needs to be slotted So I went for a drive to see how the powerband would change, expecting some slight losses if anything. However so far results are looking better than before, considerably better. Not sure why though. To reach target AFR you can see the closed loop lambda was wanting to add a peak of 22.7% more fuel which is an insane increase. I added the extra fuel then reran, and it stayed on target with minimal trim. So that was interesting. But I'm not quite convinced this is consuming 22% more air with just a trumpet swap. However it's possible that the older trumpets were badly shrouded by the bonnet and the radiator cross member. It's now up to 69.9% duty cycle with the 2ZZ injectors. Previous best was 66%. Although thats only really an indication of what's happening at max rpm. My fuel map is looking increasingly comical. I think I need bigger dia exhaust and/or VVTI to reclaim that mid range. It would be pretty good to get some of that 4000ish rpm region beefed up. On the whole though, have been fixing up some minor issues but I'm as good as ready for track day. Cant wait!
    1 point
  37. I have a possible top of the south island loop planned for a future ride that includes these plus quite a few other adventures, we'll see what the appetite is post Molesworth 2022.
    1 point
  38. Me and a mate built this at Uni as part of the design stuff for a competition, we didn't actually win on the day due to the way the results were calculated but we went twice as far as any other entry and i think they still use it as an example... Firstly, this is how it works, the basic setup. The red is a bit of 5mm polyurethane, all else is aluminium; Then you pump air in which seals the barrel and fills the outer. Once it is pressurised you remove the pump, the valve actually has nothing in it so the removal acts as the trigger; When the valve is removed the pressure on the polyurethane seals the valve/inlet and all the air rushes out, pushing whatever is in the barrel with it. And as promised, a video of it in action and some fucking dodgy editing for lols.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Auckland/GMT+13:00
×
×
  • Create New...