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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/12/21 in all areas

  1. Since the engine bay was stripped it'd be silly not to freshen the paint up. The original paint was like it was just a base coat without any metallic. I got some colour matched and and hit it. Colour and clear. Did I mention it was all done with spray cans? Came out sweet for an engine bay at 11pm on a cold night haha Also, the windscreen is back in. This is the one pulled from the white Surf. Started putting a few things back in their place too. Starting to look like a real truck again.
    15 points
  2. Poking with the torch revealed some crust in the pillar seam hidden by the roof framing so out came the welder again and brother put paid to it in a tidy fashion
    15 points
  3. It is legal! All wof'd and reg'd up. Excitement. Also made some progress on door cards. So close!
    12 points
  4. Injectors are back in with new o-rings from MSEL and primed up without leaking. Sprayed the glovebox panel with vht wrinkle this afternoon. I need to find some space for all the wiring, each of the plug ins have like 1m excess loom attached.... @Barnz.NZ put me onto a single 14" ssr tomcat listed on Yahoo Auctions Japan which I managed to win this morning. Will be using it with the other I have to make a pair for the mark II with hopes of finding two more eventually
    6 points
  5. I know many pro welders that use a dab of stainless when shit gets bubbly.. never even seen a failure coz of it. Never used silicone bronze but looks so damn nice. You'd like stainless stick welding. Super easy and it comes out delicious looking
    3 points
  6. And two short blocks dropped off at the engine shop; I took both in because the new block wasn't all that good after all, the two center pistons were siezed from overheating and had to be knocked out forcibly. The bores might be saved but maybe not. The crank had some unhappy scuffing and a serious seal face wear groove so I don't know that it's an improvement. I have a rather large pile of bits to pick through though. In the meantime to liven things up I added some bars to my deck in preparation for a potential canvas canopy a bit later... That's my man Kips rig, he has been telling me the many ways that it is broken right now; No power steering Broken front diff A bad drivetrain noise somewhere All the joints in the front are poked and need replacing, they creak and pop The tracking is badly out because of all of this. Still goes though. I have been trying to convince him it would be cheaper to upgrade to y61 axles and steering box than to fix all that. He would get the big brakes and stronger axles etc.
    3 points
  7. So I've had an OS car down here for a year now and done very little with it. Summer is coming. Any Dunedin/Otago locals interested in a meet up, cruise, whatever? @danger @azzurro @a.craw4d @xsinclairx @kyteler @nzstato who else lives down this way?
    2 points
  8. A while ago I purchased this beastie off Maxted (his build thread below for reference). th Since then it had mostly just sat in the garage while other things took up all the time. THEN Allan got a bit motivated during lockdown and spent a day lowering and putting my wheels on it Ahh, sooo much betterer! We have plans to take this to Napier in the coming weeks, so the race is on to get 'er done. Allan took it for a WOF last week and it had some taillight problems and leaking brake caliper. Top of the list they go!
    2 points
  9. Stitched the last bit up tonight
    2 points
  10. Bit late to the party but got the donk back together the other weekend and back in the bike sunday. bloody thing works too!. Still needs a bit of a tickle up but getting close.
    2 points
  11. Another step done. Took the car to a VTNZ to get them to cite the chassis number. He gave me a form on their letterhead saying the Make, Model, Year, VIN/Chassis Number and who sighted it. I can now send that off to NZTA along with the other documents when I get them. It only took 5-10 minutes for him to do but as they were busy we had to wait over an hour (staff member down) so probably best to book first. When I do get permission to re-VIN it that's where I will take it back to so it was good for them to at least have seen the car now. Simon Quick edit to add they didn't charge me anything for this bit.
    2 points
  12. Electronics Guru up the road did a 1-series BMW. My boss has a Tesla Model3 and when he asked how much the Tesla was, he said said he should have just bought one of those instead as his BMW owes him $50K.
    2 points
  13. Pretty sure you’re familiar with this thing
    2 points
  14. All checked, lubed and reassembled....
    2 points
  15. I finally got around to looking at the 250SR oil pump and good news, it'll add the extra oil I need. After seeing that its gear ratio was similar I opened up both pumps, the 200 uses a 3mm piston where the 250 has a 4mm one, yuss. The drive gear also stuck out further but it swapped over to the other pump fine. Ready to go back in. The other part of this problem was that there was no oil feed port on either the intake boot or the carb. The carb had an unused boss (probably for this purpose) so drilling that would be easiest. I pulled a nipple out of another carb I had and pressed it in with a bit of loctite. The last bit was fitting the valve that stops the oil tank from draining when the engine isn't running. This normally sits in the boot but a few minutes in a drill with a file and now I can put it inline between the pump and carb.
    2 points
  16. Was making good progress until the Argon ran out.
    2 points
  17. Things are moving at a glacial pace. A family friend managed to bore the block to +40 and he's giving me a hand with building the motor up. He's an ex engine reconditioner who knows a few tricks. Ordered a bunch of parts from burton so once they arrive that should move things along. The crank is still standard size but will need maching out. Anyone have any recommendations for a crowd in welly? Also on the look out for a decent set of +40 1300 pistons.
    2 points
  18. I've also started doing the door cards after procrastinating for a good few months
    2 points
  19. So I got another jalopy, I was searching for a decent triumph sedan when I saw this Lada for sale on marketplace. I thought "Hell, I haven't seen one of those for years!" so promptly went and got it to ensure I wouldn't miss out on the soviet driving experience. My impressions of the car are that it is great - for a car from 1970, by the time this one was made in 89' it was woefully obsolete. I understand they kept making them until 2010 in russia, and 2012 in egypt! The car had been in one family from new, and had been outside most of the time - very little rust and the interior is fine, but the paint was sunbleached to almost white from its original dark beige. I am rather enamored with its factory tool kit, with the tools all stamped cccp. I scoured the oxidation off a bit of the paint and found a good match, repainted it in the driveway, now just need to paint the windowframes black, swap the tyres onto a sweet set of fiat ward rims I found, then have some sweet proletarian adventures.
    1 point
  20. Wouldnt think so, the materials arent that dissimilar. Havent had one break on me yet and I use that trick alot.
    1 point
  21. Need a no knob touching sticker for the glovebox
    1 point
  22. I was tidying my shipping container during first lockdown and I discovered the container with the phosphoric had a tiny crack. This became apparent when the floor of the shipping container caught fire. I took the container outside and left it on the gravel and washed a shitload of water on the floor. Thankfully I found a suitable new container and transferred it over, but the gravel where it had been sitting kept swelling over the next couple of weeks...
    1 point
  23. Gly is free to anyone, some of the harder stuff is supposed to have the paperwork to show you can use and store it, but I have never been asked, even when picking up like 200l Can get phosphoric, I just get it sent
    1 point
  24. Fuck yes! So if i had a body I wanted to dissolve in my bathtub...how much would I need? *asking for a friend
    1 point
  25. Agree with KPR, 1.6 mild steel is the general rod For stainless most of what I do is fine pipe work so I use a 1.2mm give a real tight weld. Have 2.4mm mild steel as a back up for big gap craft jobs or things requiring filling up. Stainless rod on mild steel is a good get out of jail card, its probably naughty but it welds yucky mild steel without going all poopy. Good if you are repairing old exhausts etc. Really like the silicone bronze rods, makes pretty welds.
    1 point
  26. Another quick follow up. I asked at Wellington Central station and no, the Police no longer give out vehicle of interest reports. The only thing they could suggest was either using the website they have or else the OIA request, as I have done. Simon
    1 point
  27. Thank you to @4AG_Addictfor exposing himself to the filth of a junkyard y10 Set of factory fog lights, brackets, and switch, and amayama came through with new trims for a couple bucks each. NoS nizbitz
    1 point
  28. #ingredients #broke So yeah, short of the injectors turning up I should have everything for the engine wire up now. Huge thanks to DaveScienceTM @Roman who 3D printed me a super sweet mounting plate for the CAN-PWM fan speed control module. Just gotta find some time to wire it - there might be a few "sick" days off work coming up...
    1 point
  29. Yeah its under my bench, just need to finish off the new terminal connections. Will post updates once ive finished it.
    1 point
  30. Took ages to sand the hood back, about 14 120 discs to get it uniform, lol. Only had to apply filler around the nose where I repaired, 2 wee dints and 2 repair patches and the crease that appeared when the wind caught it the other weekend in the gales and threw it onto the stand right after I welded the frame back in! shot it in leftover Isolack 2k, it’s bizarre shit..like bed liner to mix but comes out normally. The Second coat ejected some snot and fucked it up but at least it’s sealed in the meantime.. now I’ll just re-spray when I do the stripes down the track. The back of the scoop will be gloss black but I had a little spare so painted them as well as battery tray. Also scrubbed up the grills, have decided on the style I’ll paint them too.
    1 point
  31. .and then I found this when I got home from work.
    1 point
  32. He did a whole lot of sanding, prepping , cleaning, masking
    1 point
  33. Also this guy came along this morning....
    1 point
  34. Stan's custom creations finished up my wangan spec glovebox install. Just need to throw some wrinkle black across it or some leopard velvet.
    1 point
  35. You know that things have slowed down a bit when it is almost two months since my last update. To be fair most of my free time has been taken up sorting out other members of our vehicle fleet. Needless to say I've missed working on the Thames and I really need to get back on it. So my last Thames related update was all about the challenges I was facing trying to get the Thames column shift to work properly with the 5 speed Toyota gearbox. In one of my updates I was even considering fitting an automatic gearbox if I could find one. At the time I asked for some advice on the Tech Forum page and the general recommendation was that I should be hunting for a A44DL auto box out of the mid 80's HiAces as this would be equipped with a Y bell housing to match the Toyota 3Y engine that I am running. At the same time it was pointed out that these boxes are getting pretty thin on the ground. Anyway I have been keeping an eye out for an auto and about a month back I was swapping a few yarns with a fellow Queenslander on the Book of Faces and he happened to mention that he had a few spare auto gearboxes lying around for his Y powered HiAce camper. After a few messages back and forth a deal was struck. I would swap him a 4 speed manual complete with flywheel, pedal assembly and clutch hydraulic pipework for two A44DL auto boxes. On Tuesday morning Mrs Flash, the hound and I loaded all of the manual stuff into our modern daily van and headed off into inland Queensland to visit my new FB mate. After a round trip of 878 km, I now have two auto boxes languishing in my shed. Both are 0372L models but one has the Y bell housing and the other the newer RZ bell housing. Apart from the bell housing difference the only other difference between the two boxes is the position of the dip stick outlet on the oil pans. The RZ has the dipstick on the opposite side for some reason. First prize is still to get the 5 speed manual to work, but at least if it all turns to custard I now have a fall back position. Photos of my two new boat anchors : Thanks for reading.
    1 point
  36. A quick jog south to St Arnoud this evening to increase my collection of boat anchors.
    1 point
  37. Had the front windscreen removed to make it easier to remove the loom and also because it needs to go into the gold body. She isn't pretty haha Then proceeded to remove loom and install into the gold body. Glad thats out of the way. So far there's 3 plugs that are different between the looms... The door light switches and the loom to the rear (tailgate, lights etc) nothing to major, hopefully thats all.
    1 point
  38. I put the bike carbs back on and ran it up to the palmy swapmeet but on the way back it developed a strange misfire/stutter at constant throttle. I checked a few things before admitting defeat and putting the standard carb on again. I took it all apart and gave it a good clean with a diy ultra sonic cleaner but the stutter was ever present but not as bad? I didn't have time to investigate it too much as I had a roadtrip booked with it down to the west coast for a bike ride. I wanted to mount my bike on the roof for a couple reasons. It would free up all the space in the back, plus it meant I wouldn't have to worry about dragging all the mud and crap in. Using a tow bar bike rack is OK but meant I would have to take the bike and rack off everything I needed to get into the rear. I couldn't find anything suitable for the roof so I was determined to make my own. A visit to grandad one day and he casually mentions his old roof rack is in his shed at home and had been for 40 odd years. A quick look in the exact spot and what do you know. Grandad had this rack years ago on his mk1 zephyr. Under all the new paint, there's the zephyr green which he painted to match. Fitted it up to to van and it was perfect. I made new feet and gutter mounts out of old folder dividers from a file cabinet (not pictured) to mount it. The rack was too short to fit my bike in so I made a front bar out of an old rusty piece of angle iron and used some tubing from an old exercycle to make a dummy axle to mount the forks too. Perfect for the parts bin van. The 1,300km west coast trip went well. The roof rack survived, even when I forgot about the bikes and took a branch off. Luckily it was at low speed and the tree was mostly dead. I lost one alternator bolt, a second came loose, front left suspension has decided to start knocking, discovered a couple of leaks under the dash and with all our gear we were riding bump stops some of the way. Success.
    1 point
  39. I have the Hillman engine out and the engine bay ready for the first see how it fits. Also the bellhousing mounted on the back of the engine with the obvious in the way, need replacing parts removed. The gearbox turned up today and is a whole lot fatter than the tiny Minx gearbox. Overall the shifter should come out in the same position as the Minx, so that will be helpfull.
    1 point
  40. Nice, iforce ate shit. Oh well here's a current photo. Casually waiting for Cindy to open the door so I can come back over, sort the storage in NZ then ship it over.
    1 point
  41. ive got a pedal but i don't use it. if you set up your down slope to suit the job you can lift off the trigger and decrease current/heat that way. that's the way i do it, works well for me.
    1 point
  42. For under $650 delivered with a 2 year warranty it looks worth a go to me https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/listing/3240144606?gclid=CjwKCAjw4KyJBhAbEiwAaAQbEx55uwPSXp6EyUmMu2YoK0S6qFpdaXFMcxmj12AcdkH5_B7d8C6-OxoChHYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
    1 point
  43. @johnny.race Something to catch out new players on a tig. The ground lead goes to the POSITIVE connection, not negative! Don't have the gas flow too high, the guide that came with mine suggested 8 Litres/minute. I went through gas RIDICULOUSLY FAST. I turned mine down to 4 and it still welds fine.
    1 point
  44. We have one off these, it's farking awesome. Really good nz support to. For 3k you might get its bigger brother.
    1 point
  45. Yeah but why is it in bits Nominal, why. Is. It. In. bits
    1 point
  46. Anyone know what the norm is in industry re welding stainless steel. Fuck knows where I have been all my life but I've never had anything to do with the stuff and always thought it had to be TIG welded. Not totally true because when I purchased an old welder years ago, I noticed it came with some arc rods for doing stainless. I put this down to this is what they must have used back in the day' given the welder was from the 1950's. But anyway - yeah TIG. But then I came across a clip on YT showing a guy MIG welding stainless so throwing all of my preconceived views out the window. So question - how is stainless normally welded in industry? Anyone know?
    1 point
  47. Mostly assembled so car can hopefully be transported to a panelbeater some time soon
    1 point
  48. More sanding and prep work. Picked up some rebuilt princess 4pot calipers and fiesta side mirrors. I was originally going to run chrome bullet mirrors but these provide a greater surface area and will match all the black trim. Painted behind the grill black and painted the calipers and brake parts. Is there any performance advantage to ditching the brake booster?
    1 point
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