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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/22/21 in all areas

  1. So I dyno'd this junk and it made 102kw. Sometime later i did a couple of tunes on fwd blacktop's. one had pon cams, one had some big kelfords. both made 108/109kw. with a big hit in the midrange. and midrange numbers already seemed disappointing stock, compared to my 16v stuff. So decided to do a little r&d on mine this worked but vibrated like shit so made this and these With the peashooter exhaust and factory airbox still, it made 108kw. with a stack more midrange than the cam'd engines red is before any changes with the airbox removed and exhaust dropped off after the new pipe. it made 112kw and picked up the bottom end more So yeh trying to convince one of the guys with the bigger cams to try the parts see if will pick up the midrange they lost video version:
    13 points
  2. Cleaned it up. Stoked with how they turned out.
    9 points
  3. Fork welded together. Turns out my fork jig wasn't very good as the tyre centre was off by about 3mm. I saw this after tacking so I cut the tacks and re tacked not once, not twice... ...4 times before managing to get it right. Sigh. Ah well its pretty straight now. technically it means the faces of the dropouts are probably not perfectly aligned but never mind, it looks good. I made a IS brake mount and popped that on too And top cap no. 1 And on top cap no. 2 I stamped the fork specs
    8 points
  4. I've never built one but I've only ever heard good things. Also.... Got these two for my Burpday from the not-so-useless stepkids. The Chev is made by a company called ICM based in the Ukraine The High Speed Tractor is by Hobby Boss from China. No modelling ATM, back is on the mend but the one thing I can't do is sit for very long. Or get up after. Hey-ho.
    7 points
  5. Carb rebuild kit for the Single barrell Solex PIC turned up - seems heaps of old shite uses these carbs so a full kit with spare jets and holders etc (Fits: Willys Jeep) was easy to find for $not much off ebay. Pre cleaning Used as much of the kit as a i could - the jets are a bit richer than the originals, so that may be useful later, especially as the throttle shaft has a bit more play than id like. Its a pretty simple carb and couldnt find any reason why this wouldn't 'work' Just need to find a throttle return spring. Nice to have another thing for the 'ready to bolt on' pile
    6 points
  6. based off the sizes on the old ones, I ordered two full sets of gearbox oil seals including shipping from Ali Express for less than the Buy it now price of a single NOS seal via Ebay. Definitely due for some! This one is the rear seal and a real shit to get the old one out as its face is flush with the inside of the recess. Gearbox is now as ready as it ever will be. Been pretty busy with work and a couple of weeks in Auckland visiting family and dragging back a solid van load (+ trailer) of shite from my storage unit - still another load to go. Anyway, some of the retrieved treasure includes a Fiat 1500 clutch master i got ages ago to try on the 2300 wagon, that didn't fit. Perfect match for the Van Various bits for a new exhaust And all sorts of other rusty shite treasure that will maybe come in handy one day for the Van and maybe the rest of the fleet.
    6 points
  7. @chasinthemirage She’s just having a go at a warmup kit to get the basics right before attacking the Falcon. (It’s an original tooling Airfix Super Etendard in 1:72 that had been in my stash for years for those following along at home)
    6 points
  8. Lockdown mk2..... But this time I have a project car and supplies, could do with a bit more paint and some specific consumables, but on the whole, I have plenty of tasks to carry on with. Cut a small rust spot out of the front panel only to find nasty muck hiding behind, only way to sort this is to hack it right off, clean out the cavity, paint and back together, only I have no paint. Patch panel is however folded up ready to go once the shops reopen. Passenger footwell, bit of a pain folding this one, but many hammers and vicegrips got it there in the end. Drivers side, near identical... So much symmetry in this car! Much larger patch required and i've run out of 1mm to make it, will have to wait In tech-spam I enquired about straightening the driver's rear quarter, on the good advice of @nzstato I looked into removing the panel to bash off car, only to find it appears the factory used lead/braze to smooth out the gap at the base of the rear screen. Not wanting to hack the panel off in a very visible spot I set about seeing what I could achieve in place... First, pull the fuel filler back into line Leading edge it about 5mm recessed Marking the dented area I tacked some modified M8 fasteners to attach my slide hammer and gently pulled Fail-ish The panel is uber thin where I tacked on and after careful tapping I got there but with a few tears in the sheetmetal, filled them in but may go back and replace it with thicker material later on. Filler cap in roughly a better spot I went over the swageline with a straight edge working out where it was and how it managed to remove itself, using a lump of rimu as a longer dolly I gently tapped a few high spots and much to my surprise it came out from hiding! Thinking I was dreaming I sprayed a quick layer of etch on and sure enough, I found a swageline! Still needs some work under the filler cap but I think this needs some more thinking, appears the panel needs shrinking and that is not a skillset I have mastered just yet so will practice elsewhere and get back to it later on. Also cut out the rot in the lower guard, plenty of dust behind, will be good to get in here painted prior to sealing up. Have started attacking the boot area, what looked promising is now not so, easiest option is to cut out half the floor and replace, with no suitable material to put in there I will wait until after lockdown before digging deeper.
    6 points
  9. Ordered the clutch hardline and fittings from here https://nz.gsparkplug.com/25ft-x-cupro-copper-nickel-brake-pipe-3-16-10-x-male-female-nut-10mm-x-1mm.html $49 delivered for 25ft of ³/16 tube with 10 male and 10 female m10x1 fittings. Had a break from the tedious jobs and whipped off the cam covers for a refresh and to delete the writing from the top of them have just hit them with a filler primer to try make them a bit smoother and will decide on colour overnight/ see what I have available...
    5 points
  10. Cue 4 and Rotary 2017, and I ticked off a personal bucket list item, put a car into a show. Then a week later was selected by Nissan NZ to display on their stand at Leadfoot 2017. Was a pretty proud moment for both. Around this time it developed an exhaust leak so figured it was the right time to install my new manifold and cams. The Manifold went on without a hitch, however when I went to put the cams in, I thought I would be super onto it and torque the cam caps down. Turns out this is a dumb idea as the only need a 1/4 to nip them up, and I managed to strip a thread and snap a bolt. Kicked myself for it at the time but got it sorted. Once the cams were in it never really ran right so after a few weeks i put the factory ones back in. Turns out the issue was with me reinstalling the CAS at the wrong marks. Dang! Few more pics of the paint process... At least the inside of the motor is clean, this is what oil changes every 6 months looks like. On display at 4nR, stupidly this was the only pic i took. First leadfoot weekend and it was a stunner. Such a good event and a shame to see it cancelled again this year. continued to take pictures of the car. Picked up a pair of single piece Work Equip 01 and fell in love. While hunting for some more I tried out some longchamps Sold the longchamps and went back to MK3s for Leadfoot 2018 Few more beauties Managed to leave the handbrake off one day and did this So off came the bumper
    5 points
  11. Around this time I managed to do this... Legal baby! Was pretty damn stoked with myself, I had managed to turn a rolling body into a fully street legal S13 of my dream. However we all know projects are never done and I had started down a rabbit hole of buying wheels from Japan. Quite the collection at this stage, and the seed had been sown to one day live the small wheel life. Only issue was the car still looked like a bag of dicks. Decided now was the time to tidy the rear guards and get some rust sorted. Also had the wheels powdercoated in a gold that really popped in the sun, unlike in the photo. Decided they needed to be the same colour even if nothing else on the car was. Daily drove it like this for a while, trying to find a painter that wasnt going to sting me for doing a job I couldn't. In the mean time had a friend weld together a s13 and s14 rocker cover for what is now quite a common mod. To be fair this was more about looks than anything and has actually caused issues with strut braces but again it looks cool so meh. Gave it a lick of wrinkle blue. One day my wife drove it, maybe her second or third time ever, and it was broken into. New front wheels Looking good but the small wheel life kept calling. Eventually got a recert, which as it turns out could have just had it certed for both size of wheels! Much better but the paint still lets the car down. Eventually found a painter who could also take care of some rust in the cowl panel so bought front cut. managed to sell all the random bits i didn't need so that this cost me $0. Score! Boom. In my mind I now had the cleanest S13 in NZ. Stoked was an understatement. The culmination of 7 years ownership, 2 certs, a motor swap, almost every single nut and bolt touched by me, you can shove your ferraris, commodores and whatever other car most people lust after, I finally had my dream car!
    5 points
  12. So once upon a time I was a young buck super keen on an s13 to build as my first "proper build" and learn to drift in etc etc so made the really sensible decision of buying the cheapest one there was on trademe at the time, albeit 6 hours away in Wellington. The thing was a piece in hindsight, cut for widebody, and fuel cell, and realistically was never going to end up back on the road. On the way home the RH front guard wasnt attached properly and managed to split itself and destroy the side skirt along with it. Spent like 20 mins trying to pick up the pieces on the side of the road just out of Wellington. Ohwell I had a sick dog widebody s13!! Picked up some different wheels, some crappy used coilovers, most interior, s15 seats and a nicer bodykit because now i had decided i would go back to stock guards... So at this stage what did I have? I had a 1989 S13 Silvia, with destroyed rear guards, no fuel tank, no engine, a shaved and painted engine bay, a boot with a giant hole in it and I still didnt care. I kept telling myself this was gonna be the cleanest S13 in NZ once i was done. Not long after I had a special delivery...
    4 points
  13. Id been soaking the oil pans off both engines in the part cleaner for the three weeks i was gone plus a few more days for luck. They were both very very gross and i had scraped the sludge and given them a few rounds of the water blaster etc before that. This is where they ended up Both were pretty dented, the car engine one slightly less bad than the vans one. This is the car engine one. They were both pretty bad so i decided to fix up both and whichever comes out better can go on the runner engine. An hour or so with a blow torch, various hammers drifts and and dollies then a quick whizz with the flap wheel Lazy coat of satin black and done. Earlier block and is made form slightly thicker metal and has an extra pressing on the front for no reason, otherwise the same. The car one sat flatter on the test block and came out much smoother so we will go with that. Van one is on the left, car one on the right
    4 points
  14. Just for the on hold bit... Don't listen to that guy at work. You have to keep renewing the 'on hold'. If you don't, you will get a bill from NZTA for unpaid rego from the date the hold ended. This happened to me. AFAIK, to change the rego class, you just tick a different box on the rego form at your local rego form place vtnz whatever. I have not done this.
    4 points
  15. Lockdown means a bit more time for projects. Put these on, a 2nd set of factory 15" Enkei's. Really light, the tyres are a bit old but will do for a while. Monster truck ride height, mostly due to not settling...he tells himself. Also have two spare Momo steering wheels, the stock steering wheel is a bit big and the top part moves/twist around a bit which is annoying. Choice of an old Momo competition model from the early 90's I think, slightly smaller than stock but nice thick grip. Or the Momo Corse like I have on the 200sx which is smaller than the Competition. The photo makes it look bigger. Can see the Corse on top is smaller: Decided to try the Corse first. Stock wheel, nice day: Momo Corse, overcast next day: Moving it around on the driveway and its definitely a bit more work due to no power steering but feels good and much more solid feeling than the stock one which had some flex. Also decided to grind back the cracking paint on the drivers side guard, which is where it was dented and I'd hammered it back out. Put some brunox on it for now. Not that I have any kind of top coat to suit...
    4 points
  16. Overall not too bad, painted the stripes same colour, gave them all a polish and tidy up, and some silicone spray .. that parts done onto painting
    4 points
  17. Spent a really long time fucking around with the hole repair in the deck, lucky its lockdown and I have some time to burn. Hole, Made a fake end to go in there, Cut out for the picture framing, Was bit of a cunt to get some nogs under there, got them in tho. Luckily l found some old bits of decking lying around that matched what was there otherwise there would clearly be a repair there. Missus oiled it while I had a cuppa. Cladding back on and finished. Gonna have a massive cleanup outside tomorrow and sort some heights for the driveway.. Edit* fuck.. Just realised I've got to do the gate for the gas bottles, surround for the califont and extend the back door threshold.. Just when you think your out, it pulls you back. If lockdown gets extended again I'm gonna sort the back deck which I could just leave, but if I have extra time why not waste it doing that rather than spinning spanners? Edit2*. Also have bring the taps through the timber at the bottom, luckily have all the gear to do this.
    4 points
  18. Dug this out for my 15yr old sci-fi mad daughter to have a go at.
    4 points
  19. Keeping in mind i did not know how to paint with anything other than a rattle can as of a year ago, im pretty happy with the result Its sealed on front edge and where bolts come through boot with some quality sealer with gaps to let water through, still have to cut and polish lightly but overall the ss wing looks good Yea and i decided this is gonna be a hdt ss rep ( not group a or group3) its got the basic trim, 5l v8 manual, wing, and with a stripe kit, some ss decals front and back it should be pretty close to what the base ss models were . . Well not exact but thats what i want it to be . .
    3 points
  20. Buggritt, took the plunge....do Acorn Models deliver over lockdown?
    3 points
  21. Probably worthwhile if it's not shit A way of seeing if it will do anything is to stick a length of masking tape between the two strut tops and jack the car up diagonally or bounce on the suspension If the tape moves, ie gets a dip in it, you will know the towers are moving around
    3 points
  22. Added a brake tab to this last weekend And thats all of my argon until payday comes around. I have be puttering along doing all the non weldy things for the last week. I put a little bridge between the chainstay and seatstay as apparently disc brakes are too much for skinny little tubes to handle long term.
    3 points
  23. ^This. At least such was the case some years ago when I bought a Falcon that was on "farm" rego. Fairly sure it hasn't changed.
    2 points
  24. Geeeez, let her use a table mate...
    2 points
  25. this has jumped the queue & needs evicted back to chch
    2 points
  26. It's fucking sick man. You should be super proud. I'm mad envious!
    2 points
  27. Two tone and wheel game on point
    2 points
  28. Managed to get tyres on the equips and all fitted up Pretty happy with the result, however the rear is a 15x8.5 -4 so ever so slightly too aggressive at the moment. Also managed to put together a fairly hori sub setup in the boot. Ive always been annoyed that the sub means a lack of boot space and knew a 12inch would fit in the pass through behind the rear seats so whipped this up. Isnt as good as the old box setup but way more space so thats ideal. Really need to get the full audio setup pulled out and properly planned in future. Can at least fit 2 15s with tyres so winning.
    2 points
  29. Some carefull grinding sliced the nuts nicely. Lights out and quick brush off revealed some nasty shit. A little bit in the bootlid. But..... the channels are mint! The scaly bit behind the chrome trim mentioned earlier. Barely a fleck in comparison.
    2 points
  30. Started building an Airfix 1:600 (soz it's the wrong scale) HMS Belfast this afternoon. Fit of the parts is just as bad as I remember from childhood but it's an enjoyable process nonetheless.
    2 points
  31. Whipped the dash out this morning for a couple of jobs-Swap out cable clutch pedal for the hydraulic one I have along with the 3 outlet reservoir -Remove the leaking heater core to source replacement/repair -Browse dash cluster wiring. None of the nz spec km36 came with a tachometer but the ym30/40g and cm30/40 did. The diesel rev range on the cm one is maximum of 6k rpm and have a turbo light which is no good to me. The ym has a max of 8k rpm (only 5500 redline) but it will do Looking at my existing cluster I have a 10 and 12p plug. This example on Yahoo Auction Japan has 3 plugs (10p,10p,12p) I'm guessing the extra plug is likely the extra warning lights along top for the more luxury optional extras. Here's hoping the board is simple enough to just trace what I have and make it work. In the past year of browsing they have all been ¥15000 but this one above is up for ¥7800 so I may as well give it a punt.
    2 points
  32. 2 points
  33. Window wouldnt wind up all the way, so i pulled mechanism out of the door and welded the teeth up, re-created a bunch of them and sanded, it works now, for how long i dont know, i guess we will see.
    2 points
  34. Well then. Its about time for an update on K11dom. Leaks. Fucking leaks... Nup - not them. The more annoying ones that happen in a car that shouldn't leak because its not British. The ones that you cant locate the source easily. You think its fine, you've fixed the obvious hole or sealed up a gap and all is good. Then a week later you notice that the car has that stale wet whiff. Bugger. Back to square one. Well Milly and Molly already had this annoying little habit from the beginning and Minky remained bone dry. So we presumed it would be the standard k11 scuttle leak we had read about in plenty of threads on various Micra forums... OK. The Micra forum. Well actually there's two but one, an Australian forum, has fizzled out and has that look of a windows 98 created chat room where aftermarket ECUs were only just becoming a thing and wheels over 14" were considered large. I digress. So Milly and Molly leaked. Minky watched from the sideline all smug face and happy because she was the planned keeper. But she too wanted some leaky fun and started to go whiffy in the passenger footwell. FFS ! So after a few rounds of pulling the mats out on a sunny day, undoing some trims and lifting the carpets to dry out, propped up with wooden blocks, letting it dry out and thinking 'well that's nice now, dry and whiffy gone, maybe it was just our wet shoes or a door not shut properly' and then only to have it come back after another decent bout of rain, we couldn't put up with it anymore. So this happened... Hannah stripped both scuttle panel covers from Milly and Minky. Its actually a really quick job. One of those 'bloody wish I had done that ages ago' jobs. Sure enough they both had the failed clip seal that eventually craps out on all K11s... This little green clip sits right below the windscreen. Its a nothing more than a lower location guide for windscreen fitment. Its pushed into the panel and seals with a shaped rubber washer of about 1mm thick behind it. The rubber breaks down and falls apart. Now for some reason the person in charge of designing this aspect of the K11 decided take make sure that the hole the clip fits in is sited right above the ventilation intake... So the water runs right off the bottom of the screen, through the perished seal and down through the vent, through the fan and out the bottom onto the floor. In this pic you can see a drip of water making its break for freedom off the fan motor base below the plug. This will explain why Millys fan had stopped working... So we removed, cleaned and with some decent adhesive sealer sealed both the green clip and the one to the right of it. The second clip doesn't hover above the intake but its better to not have water festering about the clip holes anyway. We did seal Mollys clip later on, if only to stop fish from breeding in her footwells as she sat out the back of the shed (the area we now refer to as 'the place where cars go to die' ) Luckily none of the cars had any rust around the clip holes. Its a common rot point for UK cars due to the salted road spray running off the windscreen and doing its marvellous thing in good fashion. Here is just one sample photo taken from 'one of' the aforementioned micra forums of some classic clip rot... So all sealed up and now dry as a bone Hannah happily reinstalled the dried out interior bits and we revelled in such lovely clean, whiffyless and dry interiors. Until it rained again. Fuck. The floor behind Minkys passenger seat was sodden. Like properly wet right through the carpet, underlay and up the tunnel edge. I couldn't understand how it could get so wet? I presumed we must have left the passenger door cracked open and with the last torrential rain event (we've had enough of them already- it feels like the tropics here, only with frost) there must have been a leak straight from the top edge of the door onto the carpet. So out with the blocks of wood again. This time I had to remove the underlay stuff and wring it out. Most of it disappeared into the bin actually.. Anyway..same story. Dried it all out. Thought that was that and lessoned learned to check the doors. Then Milly started to smell bad. Really pongy. WTF!!! The back window started to go misty but the carpets were dry as. A few days later I popped open the boot and found a towel hidden in the spare wheel well that we had used to wrap up the noisy wheel nut wrench/jack handle. It was sodden and smelled like a dead ferret. So that got binned. Righto - here we go again! Some how the hatch was leaking. First port of call was obviously those world famous forums. "It could be the hatch seal. Or the seals between the rear light pods and the body" they remarked knowingly. But ours were fine. We tested them. We had great fun taking turns to sit inside the boot and watch for leaks as the other ran a hose around the hatch. Nothing obvious. There was a light gap at the top corner where the seal didn't quite press against the hatch but that wasn't the cause. We added some foam just in case. Kept looking. Nothing. So we left it, annoyed and feeling a bit defeated. 'Maybe it was the hatch not being closed properly" I muttered with a tiny grasp of distant hope. "bloody Japanese cars. They shouldn't do this. Might as well be British. Even my Imp stays drier" I muttered even louder. Roll on another week or so. Fairly dry weather keeps our spirits sailing high. Cars are dry. Things are looking up. Then more rain. And more smell. I could have lit a match. This time it was Minky. She had 'that whiff' again. It smelled around the rear seat area. We lifted out the seat base and sure enough underneath it really hooned. "fuck- there MUST be a dead rat under here" I proclaimed with a hint of almost excitement at the thought of not finding a dead rat but finding the cause. I could hug the dead rat I was so happy. But upon lifting the seat out we found no dead rat but instead a damp seat base. "WHAT THE ACTUAL FUCK!!!" was apparently heard as far as Golden bay. The seat base was wet but the top was not. Right. This means war! "Get that hose!" I shouted as I scurried my way into the 'boot of certain death smell but no dead rat' and watched for tell tale leaks.. Nothing, nothing, nothing, nothing......hang on! There was a tiny trail of water running down the seal. It had to be crossing over somehow. We opened the hatch and followed the water beads. They tracked down the seal around to the bottom corner and disappeared. We popped the seal off and found a little hole between two panels... An intentional hole by the looks of it but in a silly place. Water tracked through the hole and down the inside of the panel. Its been doing this a while. Note the water track lines... The same shite design feature was found on Milly too and she even has the same little rusty water stains. From that hole it runs down the panel onto the boot floor and along a pressed channel that leads to under the seat (a perfect design..) Once the cavity under the seat is full it runs off forwards and cascades off the edge down beneath the carpet behind the passenger seat. It almost seemed unlikely when you glanced at the pathway, like as if a Nissan engineer had been reading a book full of Escher drawings while on the toilet and decided he'd design in a backwards waterfall into the K11 for shits and giggles. The tosser. So I had to design in my own anti waterfall features. My first line of defence was to block the hole. I used some self adhesive alloy tape... I then cut a hole in the seal so the water that was tracking down the seal would fall through the hole and out on the outside of the hatch opening.. My last line of defence, just in case the other points fail, was to drill a hole in the channel on each side, paint it, and build a wall with epoxy putty so any really determined water has no choice but to drain out... Take that water - I am the master of dry!!! So far its worked. We have had some huge rain events since and both Milly and Minky are dry and no horrid smells. Molly is still out the back, probably full of fish I shall sell my design fixes to Nissan. If they actually care. Hopefully this will be useful information to the hordes of future K11 owners residing on oldschool...
    2 points
  35. Pretty stoked with how it's looking. There's an annoyingly long list of things that need doing before its done though. I decided to make a headtube badge since I cant do any welding for the time being. Went with a pi symbol (π) because Guypie. or Guypi. whatever, its a simple logo to make. Just printed out a page of various size Pi's and offered them up to the headtube and picked the one that looked about right. glued it to a piece of stainless and lots of drilling/cutting/grinding/filing later came out with this: I think I am going to glue it to the head tube cause its too small to weld and being stainless. Maybe silver solder but I haven't done that before, I'm open to suggestions. Does a normal plumbers torch put out enough heat to get silver solder flowing? Alternatively recommendations on what kind of glue would be welcome. I also spent a long time turning up some fork ends to suit the axle and wheels I have, this is what I came up with: The reason they are different sizes is because I initially made them both like the one on the right, but it interfered with the wheel. Really I should have remade both of them but I couldn't be bothered, it just means the fork legs will be slightly asymmetrical. Everyone knows that asymmetrical = high performance right. Best tyres? asymmetrical. Best mtb rim profile? asymmetrical. Best ROI? asymmetric return. Clearly it's going to be a winner.
    2 points
  36. View from behind. Not much in it really. Chucked it on the scales. Its on track for 2.7kg ish final weight which was about what I was expecting
    2 points
  37. Boring up date on this turd Got the shits with stock ecu being a turd, and installed a g4x atom. wired it in to stock loom leaving the stock plugs in place as well. so could plug stock ecu back in. went something like this: had it running with basic tune in a day. then a while to get the alpha n tune and cold start, a/c idle up's with the stock isc to work nice. tbh i got lazy and never finished it properly and only has a road tune on it that spend an hour or 2 on. still, drives way better than stock ecu an uses quite a bit less gas. somewhere along the line i got sick of my 6 year old nephew mocking me about the jacked rear ride height. turns out someone had put cobra springs in the rear for some reason which sat higher than stock. so threw in some rsr low springs, not superlows so can still rally spec it. drove it for some time and was bit smokey. which i assumed was the exhaust valve stem seals. because again was too lazy to do them. only did intake. made some tools to do it in place and yeh that didn't fix it. drove it for about 6000k's before getting over the smoke and using all the oil. come to the conclusion it was something to do with the rings or pistons. was super unkeen to pull the whole engine and box out again. so pulled the head and sump off, which actually wasn't that much fun either, but better than the whole engine out. looking at this pic reminds me that the stock radiator top tank was weeping. so put in a cheap replacement, which actually looks super legit for the price. anyway. pulled pistons out. everything looked fine there, they looked better than the other 2nd hand ones i brought just in case, with about 20mm of carbon on top of them for about 18:1 compression. rings.. not so much. when i did the rebuild toyota rings with 3 week wait, and the 2nd option was out of stock also. so brought some acl/hastings rings. which were the most expensive also ?! they were pretty questionable, the gaps in the rings went square. by the time made them square the ring gaps were a bit over spec. but went with it because needed to get it running not piston out of engine, just there so could get camera to focus. this 2nd ring has 6000k's on it. can see the shiny bit is the only part been touching the bore. some places hasn't really been touching at all. so yeh either bore really oval or rings suck. im going with latter. engine running bit rich to start with on stock ecu probably didn't help the cause. but would not use these rings again So gave the block a dingleberry hone and wacked some japanese npr rings in it, which look to be identical to the toyota rings. were also cheapest. they were all bang on out of the box ring gap wise. so didn't need to even gap them. done probably 1500k's on it so far and got the seal of approval from my friend rangi re smoke. Think its still using a little oil but what 20v doesnt.. since i have to pay for my own gas for the first time in forever. stock ecu was doing about 9.5?L per 100k. with link 8.0. with new rings seems to be 7.8 ish. probably do better if i actually finish the tune.
    2 points
  38. 1 point
  39. Cool! How's she going with it? I've only built military kits but definitely keen to try some sci-fi stuff. Gave up on the Belfast, parts fit is terrible and I'm missing a sprue. This is the second go with this kit, the first one had two portside hulls. Good old Airfix. Having a jam at HMS Dreadnought now.
    1 point
  40. Dude... Nice bike! Doesn't get much better than that. Doubt it will take you long to get it running like new. That color and tail looks great in my opinion..
    1 point
  41. Generally speaking the more you advance the pump the faster/easier a diesel will start, and louder it knocks/ignities... you really notice it on some engines like ford transits, dunno how easy it is to adjust on your engine but could be worth a look/check/adjust
    1 point
  42. Have been giving this a good nudge since Wednesday. Mounted the fuel pump where coil was with a STA parts alloy bracket (overnight delivery thursday). Spent infinite time online looking for ¼npt to barb fittings for 6mm hardline to pump and pump to 8mm fuel union on webers. Ordered 3 different sets from aliexpress as I found better ones (elbow) with shorter lead times on shipping. cut back the factory loom and have enough length to relocate coil and hyperpak to where airbox was. Had a bit of a win on parts scavenging when I realized a cut up loom that came a recent 1gge purchase has lots of the plugs I need (alternator, distributor and fan switch) It's been good to find and order a bunch of stuff I need from internet (I seem to have a real battle finding specific shit) Awaiting carter oil pressure safety switch, ⅛bsp brass tee with ⅛npt allocation for carter switch. Also have electric fan relay kit on order and a couple 250 series male/female 6 pin plugs to hook up hyperpak as well as fuel pump relay which I'll run off the carter safety switch. Need to order a suitable coil and a singular 400mm electric fan to manipulate into the factory plastic shroud (I still need to overcome one outlet on radiator on incorrect end and the lack of filler as it was on 5k thermostat housing)
    1 point
  43. Nothing exciting in the works lately besides fixing old owners repairs, First pic should explain well. Window Washer pump obviously shat the bed so they Jimmy up another pump to it just chilling there. Found a spare amongst my boxes of crap and fitted her up, the black paint drives me mad on the washer bottle, maybe covid will get me cleaning it well see..
    1 point
  44. Once all the welding and body work was completed I painted the frame, swingarm, mudguard and tank with epoxy gloss white enamel, no flash paint here! just a 1L tin from Bunnings I wasnt too happy with the look of the bars either so i cut the cross brace I made and replaced it with a removable item made from stainless round bar and a stainless shackle cut in half. The bars and bashguard were then powder coated at work. When i went to put the original CT forks back on the bike I noticed the seals were leaking due to the fork tubes being very pitted, so I tried on some CB forks ive had stashed away for a few years along with NOS fork shrouds, which I'll either paint white or black. I'll get the wheels sandblasted as theyre a little scabby and get them powder coated also
    1 point
  45. I didn't want an Aux cord floating about so I went and grabbed a bluetooth adapter. This one from Logitech had good reviews and required 5V power so I hacked up an old 12V usb converter. I needed to access the pairing button on the top when it was installed so I drilled a hole to suit and tucked the adapter underneath the head unit. I then tidied up all the wiring, replaced the 4 inch speakers and installed everything in the car. Really pleased with the result. You can switch between bluetooth and AM radio with the tape insert button and the bluetooth unit automatically pairs with my phone when I turn the ignition on. Sound quality is not bad considering the setup, goes hard for what it is etc.
    1 point
  46. Did almost 20,000km in this in the year I've had it, so much fun to drive and change gear more than is necessary. Currently driving a very boring 2000 Ford Laser hatch (Mazda BJ chassis) with the 1.6 ZM-de, which is the same engine family as the mx5 b6ze from what I understand. Apparently the head will fit onto the B6 block with the only difference being 2 extra oil drains on the later engine. But the port design is different etc, no fancy VVt or anything. But the 1.5 zl-ve does have vvt, so its an interesting concept to maybe fit the 1.5 vvt head to a B6ze? While it is rated to a similar power it feels very lethargic compared to the Mx5, it's probably mostly gearing but maybe the later head's port angles are more economy designed like FE Toyota heads? Current plan is to use the Laser for daily duties and then install the Speeduino in the mx5 so I don't have to rely on it for commuting. So basically a daily for my daily. I swapped on some R888's and later 15's mx5 wheels (enkei's and really light) and drove it rain or shine for a few months. Can seriously throw it around with those on it. Had the roof down on single digit morning, good way to wake up for work. Hard top back on now with all the rain. Took it for a hoon out to the coast for lunch a while ago, was a super clear day too:
    1 point
  47. I decided not to go for power or show, neither really achievable any more, so the car became a daily driving v8 reliable runner... so first thing would be to get it running and driving as is, then work on getting a manual gearbox.. After a lot of mucking around learning tuff, I found the engine would not make oil pressure, start engine, 5 seconds in still nothing, repeat x9, I did this a few times untill the lifters were chattering like crazy, pulled the plugs, fuses, wind it over etc., so after much research... Found the 'high volume' oil pump that came with the engine had a broken input shaft, as in, it was turning the shaft but not the oil pump gear but still felt solid and tight untill i twisted it properly .... ...... really??? So I brought a new pump and that fixed my last issue.. The damn F#$*ing shaft had spun in the pressed fit of the pump gear so was spinning on the spot.. took quite a few methods, days if not weeks and vaseline to figure this out, as the Holden v8 pumps are known to have priming issues, which was my initial thinking, i must have had that pump in and out 20 times, sorry no pics, was just relieved when the gauge moved ! Then things started to look up ... https://youtu.be/0Q8boxr26YU https://youtube.com/shorts/Ep8BNbHLJiU https://youtube.com/shorts/IICLjXuLgi4 1 st start and drive No exhaust. more pictures new exhaust, gillies, there's probably a lot of things left out, but it was a lot of work for sure ..
    1 point
  48. Finally finishing plastering was spurred on by the fact I had some tiling to do.. Decided on a handmade Italian subway style green tile.. Not a huge fan of tiling either, mainly due to tiling over an abundance wobbly floors and walls. That sort makes tiling extremely painful, my house was no fucken different.. After doing some measurements I found that I was going to have to start with a half tile cut at the bottom to meet the extractor with a full tile at the top. I could've moved the range hood to make it work but I really couldn't be fucked and the tiles are dark enough that you wouldn't really notice a half tile under the window either.. As you can see my original mixer adaptors were pretty munted looking, went to miter10 to see what they had on the shelves and what do you know.. Free. Look a better now.
    1 point
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