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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/05/21 in all areas

  1. Last time I bought some , the most economical way was to get them from super cheap But yes, snug fit in the holes, and not longer in the shank than the wheel is thickness wise And steel washers. Also if you are getting close to bottoming out the nut, make sure the wheel stud doesn't taper out at the bottom. I've seen that happen and the nut got stretched bigger at the shank end, making it very difficult to get back out of the wheel...
    6 points
  2. So in echo related updates, Picking up the new wheels from swap meet this weekend, big thanks to @Goat who is bringing them along! I also picked up box full of C56 internals including a torsen LSD. Big thanks to my mate Ken for this. LSD will be glorious! But I have a decision to make. The "proper" way to install it is to sit the box on a bench with bellhousing facing down. Then disassemble the box from the far side and remove the gearsets and detents and everything to eventually get to the ring gear and diff center. But this is like, you've got some food stuck in your teeth but you can only reach it by sticking a broom up your arse. There's a bodgey way where you can remove the front cover only, looks fiddly as fuck but saves a big headache (maybe) So I'll give this method a try on my C152 box first to test the practicality of it. I hate working on gearboxes so I'm torn between taking the long/proper way, or the potentially short but fiddly way. Historically speaking, trying to take any shortcuts usually leads to misery and having to do things the proper way anyway. Also my alternator situation has been nothing short of a miserable headache that's stopping me from driving the car currently. It was fine when I first installed the bracket and tensioner, but it would squeak a little bit sometimes. Eventually my shitty tensioner broke, so I made a better one with the aim of eliminating the squeak. Didnt work, it still sqoke. Rechecked belt alignment, fine tuned it to be as exact as I could. Pinged belt up tighter. Squeals like a stuck pig. Eventually my alternator bracket broke. So I got the local workshop to jizz it back up with some welds. Then it was fine for a little bit, then started squealing in an incredibly annoying manner and hasnt stopped since. I found that the bracket had bent, for I think the same reason it broke initially. The alternator has a sliding sleeve of sorts that pulls inwards to tighten the alternator to the bracket, where the bolt threads in. If it's a bit rusty (they all are) it doesnt move too freely, so takes a lot of force to pull it back in. I CRCd it a bunch and hammered it in and out to free it up a bit. But when you crank the shit out of it to tighten it up, it's trying to crush my bracket before its trying to pull that end bit in. Also I think another potential problem is that the original motor has 3 accessories on it. Aircon pump, waterpump, then alternator. The belt path means theres maybe 190-200 deg worth of belt wrap on the alternator. But if you run just from the pulley to the alternator, there's only ~160ish degrees of belt wrap. So then you need to tighten the belt heaps to try make up for it - then you have issues with things bending or breaking especially when rpm is high and maybe some harmonics stuff coming into play. Then the short belt length probably doesnt help either. So at the moment I'm torn between trying again with another alternator bracket, or just calling it quits on this motor. Evenutally I need/want to get an NHW20 prius motor so I can run VVTI, bolts to gearbox properly, and then I can use the factory bracket to fit an alternator on. With extra belt wrap and belt length because it's back to a mechanical waterpump. But I'd like to compare notes to this existing engine first, hopefully get both on a dyno and see how much difference the compression ratio difference makes (or not) The NHW20 motor is funny because the only thing running off the accessory belt is the waterpump, which then runs on the non V side of the belt. So the only thing running on the Vs of the belt is an idler where the alternator usually goes... But it can definitely fit an alternator there, as the block is the same part number as a normal 1NZ motor. Pretty frustrated at the moment as it's a really unfun sort of problem to deal with, and I dont really have any tools or ability to fix it myself.
    5 points
  3. Linkage kit installed I need to shorten the balancing tab between carbs to fit the front one on. I need to grind down the boss on the second runner so the carbs can slide back, would also like to shave 5mm off both surfaces of manifold to gain 10mm clearance from carbs to van body (currently both flanges are 13mm thick each and overall manifold 54mm thick.
    4 points
  4. Runner system pattern complete. Re sprayed everything with the better mould release. All patterns ready to go now. Next will be testing out the new sand resin system to figure out ratios and work times. Dont really want to go all in with a 200kg batch first go!
    4 points
  5. Have head. Ports are far better design the ironhead currently fitted. Will price up options of bigger valves etc before i go too crazy on cleaning up the throats and reshaping chambers. also soooooo much lighter.
    3 points
  6. Had a win on the illusive 4age engine to gearbox braces last night on yahoo. I'm still torn about what to do with exhaust manifold, i have spoke to someone about shortening the headers and it looks like the pipes are too close to each other to fully weld. A factory ae86 cast manifold is going to cost me about $400 from Japan Or fujistsubo do a few options like this 4-2-1 stainless which I could trim or remake the lower section Or this 4-1 also fgk stainless which looks like it joins higher up from the secondary pipe they show in photos. Both of the fgk are around $¥75,000 so not cheap but probably a bit cheaper than having a set made plus the logistics and time of transporting vehicle
    3 points
  7. I havnt had a fan on this for a while as all my viscous are either siezed or nof doinh anything so i took it off so it didnt sound like a van Carfully route planning and nof sitting in traffic was the key to not overheating it. Anyways. I had the radiator record recently and at the same time i got the shop to put a bung for a temp switch in. So tonight i put an electric fan in it Its actually out of a 1992 galant out in field
    3 points
  8. Oh yeah! Rebuilt and sleeved to standard spec by Powerstop, so hopefully we should feel ALL the dual-diaphragm assisted Chrysler luxuriousness a poor man needs
    3 points
  9. pics Haven't done much glue sniffing lately, finished the 88 mm, just the weathering to do now but apart from that, nuffin. /pics Needs a diorama so I guess that's next.
    3 points
  10. Fenders Painted and Fitted Up. Fitted up a moon disc to the alloy wheel too. And the Painted peaked bonnet.
    3 points
  11. Yeah it's definitely a cool thing to have, I have tits for hands when it comes to fabricating things so it's really bridged that gap for me. And now I think it's got me thinking more about how I'd actually fabricate something, when it seems intimidating when you dont know how to start otherwise. I have a Creality CR10-S S5. So it's a 500x500x500 build size but otherwise a pretty cheap and basic printer. I wouldnt reccomend how it comes out of the box unless you wanted to print PLA only (material that isnt really usable in hot conditions or for things like manifolds) To get it to be able to print stuff like HIPS I needed: -Change to direct drive extruder -240v heated bed -build a shitty enclosure -new controller and firmware that is 32bit instead of 8 bit (It would choke up a bit when there were lots of commands to do quickly) -solid mount the bed instead of springs Probably about an extra $4-500 worth of stuff, and shitloads of time calibrating things. But now it's an invaluable tool for me.
    2 points
  12. A few more neurons collided in the memory section. The dynastart runs on 12V - the starter switching uses both 6V batteries ganged to get 12V. But once the switch is released and it's running, it charges at 6V. For the era, it's a fiendishly complicated way of doing it - but very NSU. We found out about the armatures when the family Prima did one. I may or may not have been complicit in over-revving it. When the old man (AMIMechE) pulled it down and found out from his old mate Ian Whiting what a new armature cost, i stepped up and offered to have a go at it. I'd been heavily involved in slot car racing and was up to the point of building/rewinding my own motors - so knew what I was looking at. And it worked. Once it was proven on ours, the old man bragged about it to Ian - and I was given a box of the bloody things to fix.
    2 points
  13. Thanks OS! A box of grommets was just delivered. Not sure who you are? Not latex rubber/silicone for a change. (Which is the norm for mystery packages from OS users)
    2 points
  14. This brace wasn’t bracing shit any longer. It’s quick and ugly cause it’s largely hidden by vents
    2 points
  15. Shed has been a mess for 4 years at least. Started as organised clutter then progressed to utter shambles. Took most of the weekend, and a few hours tonight. But it is nearly ready for car again. Done one trip to the dump already, have to take some waste oil/dirty fuel containers to work to empty out. And move a few things to the garden shed. Nearly have room for the tv too!
    2 points
  16. I did not complete the two week challenge but I'm still chipping away. Aidan at Pine Engineering sent me these photos of the br-x completed last night @BobbyBreeze was kind enough to lend me a centre cap to replicate also which are just off being anodized I have a new set of Yokohama A539 in 175/60 and 185/60 at home ready to go also
    2 points
  17. The Ender 3 Pro is great for the $, but I reckon the max bed temp is closer to 80-85 degrees by the time the build plate is attached.
    1 point
  18. Even I've done the above and had zero experience pulling apart a gearbag. All goods.
    1 point
  19. Re c series gearboxes. Have pulled many apart. The janky way works fine. Just need to split the case and have about 10 to 15mm gap to work with to get 2x m8 bolts out that hold the reverse selector thing? Then will come apart. Otherwise doing it the proper way, getting 5th gear off can be a pain. But the later boxes seem to have jacking bolt holes. which makes things not too bad.
    1 point
  20. Yeah you can do it in bits that slot together. 240 and 110 deg will likely be fine. Main thing is stopping drafts. I've not tried printing the carbon nylon stuff because it's a real ball buster of admin work to keep the matieral ok for printing. You have to bake it before your print it to get the moisture out, then it reabsorbs moisture so quickly from the air, that you need to keep it in a dehumidifier box while it prints. A smaller printer is considerably considerably easier to work with with way less headaches. I'd say 70% or 80% of the prints I do are under 250x250
    1 point
  21. I must have dealt with a bunch or useless places. The company who supplies our wheel nuts/spacers didn't have any
    1 point
  22. I got some metric shank nuts off supercheap and they were a bit shit. Threads were on the piss. Ended up finding a set off rock auto which were mint and significantly cheaper
    1 point
  23. Ah so that's quite a large one! I was looking at the Ender 3 Pro which says it can do Carbon Fibre (not sure if that's the right thing). But the build size is much smaller at 220x220x250. From what I can find the nozzle can do 240degC and the base 110degC so maybe just shy of what is needed. I suppose a manifold could be designed in pieces that slot together?
    1 point
  24. 18th is the 3rd Wednesday. I seem to have the Dai running again, but regardless, I'ma go for a beer (/kombucha) at Spitfire square ~7pm.
    1 point
  25. Ah, yeah. I'm *sure* you're right.
    1 point
  26. I think you're doing Y10 all wrong. I find the key to successful Y10 ownership is to neglect them in every aspect. It seems to create some kind of automotive "treat em mean keep them keen" situation.
    1 point
  27. Dash is in. Tacho works ok. Not accurate but looks the part.
    1 point
  28. Yeh so I haven't driven the off-roader since a week or so before the initial covid lockdown, and still haven't finished the trailer, but I did just make a terrible financial decision, probably induced by severe sleep deprivation, but hey, these things happen. So a customer of mine offered me an unused pair of 10" travel FOX factory racing remote res coil overs, at basically half the new cost. I then priced up a second pair to match, and the eight springs I need to go with them. Not surprisingly it got very expensive. The new second hand shocks, plus another matching pair, plus all the required springs was going to be north of $3600. I also thought about doing a mixed set up with FOX air shocks on the front, and these coil overs on the back, but my OCD wouldn't allow it. So, I've ordered a full set of FOX 2.0 10" travel air shocks (Basically the cheapest decent shocks you can get for this sort of application) and you don't have the added cost of springs. These are way too flash for this thing, but I have a cunning plan. So because I am basically going to cut the front and back ends off the current offroader for all these suspension and drive line upgrades, and because the cockpit is a little small for me, I've decided I will build a new frame from scratch, and then sell the current offroader to possibly pay for a more modern (EFI hopefully) engine (or just use the spare 600). Because SXS's have become so popular, a few motorbike parks are having SXS days, so I will actually have legit places to use this, which makes me happy. Now to finish the other trillion jobs I have to do, so I can play with this thing sometime in the future. Regards, VG.
    1 point
  29. its all coming together nicely. i had a fault with the idle speed controller which turned out to be a short in the loom so i fixed that. i needed more travel in the clutch to fully disengage it so i changed the master to a 13/16 bore and its perfect now. honestly the clutch is like your driving a corolla, its that good. so i have been doing some Ks in it to bed the clutch before the dyno on Friday and everything is working perfectly, im super stoked with it all. i cant really give it any stick because the tune is wrong for this turbo and it might shit itself so im being gentle. which sucks. the other thing i did was make a tool to aid adjusting the cams during the dyno session on firday. its really hard to see what your doing and its hard to accurately adjust them so im hoping this tool will make life easier. 2021-08-01_04-21-50 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-42 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-26 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-33 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  30. So apparently I wasn't actually finished writing or updating. Sooooo.... we pulled the door cards off to re-stretch the vinyl and reglue and found *dun dun duuuuun* .... bloody rust. I mean it makes sense to have rust in a door that age, but was I expecting it? No. Well that turned my nice easy job into another job to add to the list. So with wire brush in hand we set off scrubbing that bloody rust. Did we wear face masks? No. Do I have rust all up my nose? God yes. Am I an idiot? Up for discussion. After we got all that rust out we decided yeah let's get to rust converting. So we brushed and painted and brushed and boy when I tell you it's hard work trying to rust converter inside a door even for little girly hands to get in I mean it. Did I get covered in rust converter? Yes. Did I lie down on the floor to see into the door while holding a loaded up brush? Yes. Did this rust converter then fall down into my eye because I didn't wear eye protection? Also Yes. Am I an idiot? I'm beginning to believe I am. Lesson for today: Wear your PPE.
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. Rebuilt the old cnc router. Runs heaps more reliably now. Brought some 50x50x3 aluminium extrusion at put it to work on some brackets. Finished and painted. With the Valves and sensor fitted. Mounted into the trunk.
    1 point
  33. More scrappy part-finished hood frame shiz.
    1 point
  34. Any fucking wonder they rust. Scraping paint off the hood frame with the edge of my new patch and fingernail, not a speck of primer
    1 point
  35. It’s still progress even if it’s to cold to do physical work on it right? Ah shit, wet mangled box phew not rooted! Some damage to the tulip/deck filler/Dutchman panel but easy fix. even included a bonus fancy Honda trans mount with an electrical sensor some poor sap will be waiting for on a 2day service! This only took a week to arrive!
    1 point
  36. Fire in the hole four bolts half wound in from bellhousing side and rest onto mounts. you can just see in photo sump is fouling on the removable stone guard which is holding engine up. Test fit of drivers half of bonnet shows its fouling by hopefully the same amount it needs to drop down. the untrained eye says the carbs will fit. fingers crossed
    1 point
  37. My magic eye VU meter parts arrived! Magic eye tubes were used as signal strength indicators on old valve radios, to help show you when you'd tuned the station accurately. Fast forward 90 years and this kitset just makes the tube displays dance to the music. I went for a pricier kit, but made up for it by getting the tubes on TradeMe and supplying my own case. Here's the kit assembled: I set about installing it in the project box and started to freak out that it would look like a monster face - the box for the head, tubes for eyes and a grille for a mouth. I added a Tesla nameplate below the grille to try to minimise that, but from some angles.... Anyway. Here's a video. Behold the pointlessness!
    1 point
  38. I designed a device for you that bolts on to your pulley to stop it falling off and also supplied a scientific graph as I know how much you love them
    1 point
  39. Used some 1/4 inch rod to make a start on a basic hood peak. After stripping it of primer again. The black is CRC aerosol rust kill. Its so easy to use and seems to work really well. Bit the bullet and put the sabre saw through the fender, to try and create some more wheel clearance. After some pondering I bluffed my way through filling it in. Sprayed some primer over it, temporarily to see how it went. And pretty happy with the result. Its not perfect. Like the rest of the car. But its not terrible.
    1 point
  40. I got sick of waiting for the 'E' harness I bought off yahoo auctions to show up. This harness has all the starting, charging and power supply stuff in it, and not having one meant I couldn't power anything in the car up. I figured I was always going to end up rebuilding this harness, as the OEM ones are all pretty shot by now, but the one from japan was relatively cheap and I was hoping to use it to get things tested initially... I got busy and built the main supply and grounding wires. Everything is a bit larger than OEM (sorry Mazda lightweight engineers) as I wanted to use stuff I mostly already had. Still, nice beefy main battery cables wont hurt. I remember reading a Mazda TSB ages ago about moving the ground locations from the brackets they are originally bolted to, to the body and engine directly, so I built the new wiring to suit this. The positive battery terminal unit is the first power distribution point. There are a couple of connectors that go into the bottom of it that send power to various places via fusible links. There are three cables that bolt to it, one goes directly to the starter, and the others to the alternator output and second power distribution box via the main 120A fusible link. Now I could actually power up all the body stuff. Much to my surprise, most things worked pretty well! Power mirrors aren't giving any response, and the windows are a bit slow to go up and down, but probably just need some lubing. Most annoying was the passengers side headlight. It went up, but would not come down. Looking at the FSM to see how they work I suspected it was the wiper contact on the motor output. Got it out and on the bench and it didn't look too bad... But some attention with some 400grit, cleaning and re-greasing and I now have two pop up up and down headlights. I need to build a bit more of this harness section, as the alternator control wiring, starter signal, and a few other wires go through it. Not a major though. Then I need to build the main 'EM' harness, which is the actual engine control harness, and I should be able to start the thing! Waiting on parts for that, and freight times suck worldwide at the moment... But we're all struggling with that. No rush eh? ;-).
    1 point
  41. Well it didnt 100% work. But it could definitely be fixed with a welder! It didnt fill fast enough and there wasnt enough pressure. So they had to frantically fill from one of the riser holes to try save it. In doing that there is a big section of cold lap and a big hole! So the changes would be to have 2 filling sprues in the middle of the casting. Then increase the head pressure a little bit. The bowl I had in the sprue was way too big and reduced the head pressure. For the most part it looks pretty good. All the finer details are there. No cores collapsed or shifted, no shrinking of any areas so I dont need to worry about chill blocks. El Camino for scale. Going to have to figure out an easier way to do this in the shed. Was way too much work!
    1 point
  42. Finished and loaded up. Probably the most expensive and elaborate way to lower an El Camino! Looks like we'll see how good these bump stops are!
    1 point
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