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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/03/21 in all areas

  1. Doing 2 sprues/filters on this one which each feed one side of the casting. There will be more volume but also the mould is higher with no basin which will give more pressure. Completed the box. Quicker and cleaner than the last one. Next will be the runner system pattern/box.
    14 points
  2. Fenders Painted and Fitted Up. Fitted up a moon disc to the alloy wheel too. And the Painted peaked bonnet.
    13 points
  3. Shed has been a mess for 4 years at least. Started as organised clutter then progressed to utter shambles. Took most of the weekend, and a few hours tonight. But it is nearly ready for car again. Done one trip to the dump already, have to take some waste oil/dirty fuel containers to work to empty out. And move a few things to the garden shed. Nearly have room for the tv too!
    9 points
  4. Time to have another go Got almost a ton of sand, new resin system and a new insulating spray for the moulds (meant to help big thin castings). Planning to use a concrete mixer to do larger batches. Doing some repairs to the damaged patterns. Drilled holes in the print and injected concrete epoxy. Also adding a few bond on thread plates to hopefully get a slide hammer on.
    9 points
  5. So I have been waiting for essential parts to arrive from overseas and have been keeping myself busy with little things. The manifolds are all fitting nicely and all I need to do is trim the carburetor flange to size so it looks a little more attractive. I will wait until I have the carburetor mocked up in place before I do this to make sure I don't run into any clearance issues with the throttle and transmission linkages etc. It all ended up fitting very neatly around the strut tower and the carb should end up in a reasonable position with sufficient hood clearance. I also decided to fit larger fuel lines as the factory ones seemed very small. This is probably more for the future but since I am installing an electric fuel pump now I figured it was best to do the fuel lines as well. I removed the factory 1/4 inch return line from the car, and from the tank pick up assembly, and replaced it with a larger line that will become the fuel feed line. The original 5/16 fuel line will become the return. Bending all that hard line into the correct shape to fit with the factory lines was a challenge but it all turned out pretty well and looks neat and tidy installed in the car. I had to pull the driveshaft out to get access but no big deal.
    8 points
  6. pics Haven't done much glue sniffing lately, finished the 88 mm, just the weathering to do now but apart from that, nuffin. /pics Needs a diorama so I guess that's next.
    6 points
  7. This brace wasn’t bracing shit any longer. It’s quick and ugly cause it’s largely hidden by vents
    6 points
  8. I'm running evo wheels becuse the daily came with yuck random alloys. They run a shank nut so are a pain in the dick to center properly. Aliexpressed some Hubcentric adapters over as the two places I asked locally couldn't do them. I'm living in denial about the vibrations on the motorway being the inner cv and hoping these help
    5 points
  9. Well it didnt 100% work. But it could definitely be fixed with a welder! It didnt fill fast enough and there wasnt enough pressure. So they had to frantically fill from one of the riser holes to try save it. In doing that there is a big section of cold lap and a big hole! So the changes would be to have 2 filling sprues in the middle of the casting. Then increase the head pressure a little bit. The bowl I had in the sprue was way too big and reduced the head pressure. For the most part it looks pretty good. All the finer details are there. No cores collapsed or shifted, no shrinking of any areas so I dont need to worry about chill blocks. El Camino for scale. Going to have to figure out an easier way to do this in the shed. Was way too much work!
    5 points
  10. Trans adapter time. As mentioned earlier the 722.6 doesn't bolt up to a M180/M127/M129/M130 engine even through the bolt patterns look very similar (with the inline engine version of a 722.6 bellhousing at least). So I had a conundrum on how to go about this, taking into consideration things like starter location, ring gear location, keeping things concentric, making sure the torque convertor is seated once its all together etc. There's several things that ended up providing the answer for me. Firstly the starter; On the M130 the starter is on the right hand side of the engine, the factory sandwich plate that sits between the engine and gearbox has a provision for the starter. however on the 722.6 trans the starter clearance bulge is on the the left hand side. So which side of the motor do you want your starter? if you scroll up a post of two you'll see the oil filter housing sits on the left hand side of the motor, right where the starter would be, so you can't make use of the 722.6s starter mount. In which case you're now using the engines OG starter, which means you'll want to keep the ring gear in the original location... So I yoinked the manual trans off that engine and too some measurements and drew some circles in Fusion360 Then realized I'd mucked up the overall diameter of the thing, luckily this was prior to sending away files to the laser cutters. Sent some files off and they sent back some lumps of metal Have a 12mm spacer for the end of the crank, and a 3mm thick flexplate, plan is to scavenge one of the ring gears off the manual flywheels I have and weld that to the flexplate. I spent a rainy Sunday attempting to measure the bolt pattern for both the engine and the trans and had a test piece cut out of 3mm plate at the same time (the disc on the left) if my measurements were right I was going to get a thicker one cut and run that but you can see from the ticks and crosses on it only about a 1/3 of the holes lined up. Ended up getting a 12mm thick piece laser cut (the disc on the right) that utilized one of the factory dowel pins on the trans, that was to be my starting point. clamped precariously in place, the OD was large enough to blank off the now unneeded starter bulge on the left hand side Went around and marked out the holes I'd be using that didn't clash with any of the holes I would need on the sandwich plate, tapped one of them using the shitty tap set I had before buying a Volkel tap set based on someone on heres recommendation, holy moley did that improve my outlook on life. Whoever made that recommendation deserves an ice cream. Ended up here: Jealous of my phone? Whilst doing that the torque convertor was sitting on the bench next to the trans, at some point I moved the trans and knocked the converter onto the floor which caused a drama for later on but we won't talk about that. Did some maths at this point. Decided if I wanted to run a 12mm thick adapter plate I'd need to reduce the thickness of the sandwich plate by ~11mm, a buddy came through and was able to do that for me, I have a spare plate if this doesn't work out, comparing the two post surgery: That's the relatively easy side done, next step was to join that to the engine whilst keeping the trans concentric to the crank (well as much as I could anyway). There's a small win here in that the OD of the pilot on the torque convertor is the same as the ID on the end of that crank where the pilot bearing would normally go for the original manual trans (35mm). I carried this measurement over to the ID of the crank spacer so the Torque convertor could locate on it, the spacer picks up the OG dowel pin on the end of the crank so based on that assumption of it being a straight line I bolted the spacer up to the crank and slid the trans up to it, docking the torque convertor pilot in the hole. Took a brave pill and wiggled it so the trans looked straight up and down against the engine, rather than tipped to one side, and marked out the two holes for the starter then drilled and tapped those. Bolted everything back together, so far everything is lining up. took the trans off, leaving the adapter bolted to the sandwich plate on the engine, removed these two as one: Was then able to flip it over, mark out some holes and drill and tap those. Then the moment of truth, putting it all together... Booyah! that shit is attached. Had to do a bit of fettling but was bugger all. I need to change the blade on my vertical bandsaw so I can trim the excess off the OD of the adapter. Current issue is that its too tight between the flexplate and the converter, they rotate as one without being bolted together. We didn't get exactly 11mm off the plate when we machined it down, it ended up being about 11.2mm which I think is part of where the problem is, it's bringing the trans and engine too close together, in hindsight I probably should have aimed for 10mm. I think to get around this I might skim a bit off the end of the converter so it can sit further inside the bellhousing when seated, but I'm not sure how much clearance the input shaft of the trans should have inside the converter before it bottoms out, surely 1mm less isn't the end of the world? Anyone got any insight?
    4 points
  11. its all coming together nicely. i had a fault with the idle speed controller which turned out to be a short in the loom so i fixed that. i needed more travel in the clutch to fully disengage it so i changed the master to a 13/16 bore and its perfect now. honestly the clutch is like your driving a corolla, its that good. so i have been doing some Ks in it to bed the clutch before the dyno on Friday and everything is working perfectly, im super stoked with it all. i cant really give it any stick because the tune is wrong for this turbo and it might shit itself so im being gentle. which sucks. the other thing i did was make a tool to aid adjusting the cams during the dyno session on firday. its really hard to see what your doing and its hard to accurately adjust them so im hoping this tool will make life easier. 2021-08-01_04-21-50 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-42 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-26 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-33 by sheepers, on Flickr
    4 points
  12. Got the floor sorted and the seat mounts are nearly done. To make the new ECU enclosure fit nicely, I decided to move the firewall forward by a couple of inches. This also gives me room to get a drive belt on the engine in place. To accommodate the larger engine bay, I was trying to think of a good way to make the engine cover 2 inches longer. I tried showing it photos of the queen but when that didn't work, the only solution was to make a new cover. I measured the width at 1200mm which was super convenient being the width of a standard sheet of ply. So I popped down to Bunnings and got them to cut a sheet in half so it would fit in the car easier. Later at home, I popped the new sheet of ply into place and discovered the engine cover isn't square and is only 1200 at one end. The other being closer to 1240. So now I had 2 completely useless 1200 square sheets of ply. Back to Bunnings for another and this time cut it a bit bigger.
    2 points
  13. Finished and loaded up. Probably the most expensive and elaborate way to lower an El Camino! Looks like we'll see how good these bump stops are!
    2 points
  14. Installed more shiny bolts and took a crap photo of them Fridge magnet order arrived so I pulled the other rotor off to be skimmed
    1 point
  15. No FXR motor sorry mate - just FX. 125cc. DOHC. 5 Speed. Same as FXR except less CC's and less gears. BBK's for the 150's fit apparently though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/362816506793
    1 point
  16. Got the local exhaust shop to bend some pipe for me so I could replace the crusty exhaust. Couldn't find a ball & socket joint to match the manifolds so decided to just weld the new pipes directly to the manifolds. One less flange to leak is a good thing. Pulled the manifolds off to weld everything up after tacking it in place and discovered one spark plug was mega loose. I unscrewed it and saw this.... Now those plugs were new.... maybe 10 hours of running. I'm not 100% sure if I blew it to bits by running mega lean with those crappy injectors or if there's other things going on here. Had a look at the piston which seemed to be ok. Did a compression test to make sure there were no bits missing and all the other cylinders were around 190-200psi. This one was down to 100. Put the leak-down tester onto it and sure enough, the valves weren't sealing very well at all. So I think I've either burned up a valve seat or since the back side of the exhaust valve is pretty crusty, perhaps this one has been sat open the last few months and got some crap on it. After careful consideration, the plan is to reassemble everything and carry out another compression check once it's been run for a while. Then I can decide if it's worth fitting my spare head.
    1 point
  17. This is what $150 ish gets you in old xplod gear It's not entirely period correct, but that's fine. Because I'm retarded I spent extra to not only get a 10cd stacker, but then extra to get a head unit with a proper input for said CD stacker, tho I think I could have hacked a lesser head-unit to run one easy enough. But this one has front and rear L/R outputs too 1000w amp 1300w sub I have no idea where any of this will fit without taking up folding flat boot space, I may have to make some rear quarter pods, put the stacker in the glove box, and the amp under a seat or something. Current sound system is some after market head unit, factory 6x9s in the D pillars and I'd guess factory 4-6" in the front door panels. Probably just upgrade the front speakers and bridge the rear to the sub. But still...... I want flashing lights and a fibreglass pod that takes up the whole back
    1 point
  18. Made a start on the rear quarter/rear arch - the arch has had me nervous for a while, pleased with how it's come out so far.
    1 point
  19. Taking Felicity out to get a drink from the local liquor shop and an angry sounding beautiful XT pulled in behind. Couldn't resist a photo. Much excited as time for exhaust and sundry bits of fabrication!
    1 point
  20. Someone may find these interesting... https://instagram.com/the_scaled_marketplace?utm_medium=copy_link
    1 point
  21. Shit all my cars have bad safety and emissions I'll be calling zebra to come get them all and crush them so I can ride the bus I wouldn't want to sell them to some poor unsuspecting person
    1 point
  22. Oh yeah. Will chuck some pics on when I get a chance...
    1 point
  23. right so, its all back together. but first, new clutch. its a niteparts designed unit which holds heaps of torque but drives like a normal car. this thing is huge. check out the friction plate on top of the Giken twin plate unit! 20210713_184945 by sheepers, on Flickr 20210713_184938 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-44-05 by sheepers, on Flickr 20210713_183646 by sheepers, on Flickr right so then i put the motor back in the car. had to mod the turbo dump pipe. also had to mod the intercooler piping by the throttle body to include a new larger blow off valve. other things done include all new pipe work to and from the turbo and all new hoses for the wastegate. im waiting on a new intercooler which should be here in a couple of weeks too. and tonight i took it for a drive round the block, so far so good. noo doortz though as it needs to be tuned with the new turbo. its booked on the dyno on the 6th of August. 2021-07-21_08-32-36 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-32-14 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-32-24 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  24. Big progress today. Now I need to figure out the drive system. I am planning on running an idler shaft down where the air conditioning compressor would be. This is necessary as the supercharger drive flange is positioned well behind the crank pulley. With this set up I will be running the supercharger via two drive belts but it seems like the most practical solution and will also avoid clearance issues when the distributor is reinstalled. Right now I am liking the look of this.
    1 point
  25. Got it down without dropping it or injuring myself! Been a productive weekend. Just need to add some walls and pack some extra sand around the areas im worried about. Then will be good to go to the foundry!
    1 point
  26. Top & sides of the rear window done.
    1 point
  27. Masked up and sprayed the other side and the underside of the floors as far back as the rear seats (note all the OG underseal the blaster couldn't get off), left the trans tunnel in case it needs some clearancing for the trans I want to run (Mercedes 722.6) I need to drop the rear diff to do the underside of the boot, but before doing that I thought I should really install the bags and some wheels and put it on the ground to see how it looks, so I did. Managed to unlock the next level of sketch city in the process with mystery blocks of wood used in precarious manners to get it down off the axles stands. That's as low as you'll get one of these without taking an angle grinder to the body which I am unkeen to do, I also don't think the rear diff would enjoy any more articulation. sills are about 100mm, front cross member about 70mm and rear diff about 50mm from the ground respectfully. Now have the classic problem of the jack not fitting under it.
    1 point
  28. Still plodding away, got a pair of Slam Specialties RE5s for the front, would of likes to run the larger RE6s up front but they're a bit marginal for clearance on the diameter front and I'd rather not risk having a bag rubbing on something. Hot glue gunned some mounts together, all designed to be bolt in: Full Squash (onto factory bumpstops), followed by full droop - looking like I'll need limiting straps at full droop to stop all the weight hanging from the bag. Back when this was at the panel beaters I made a day trip with Ned to Mercworx is Tirau in search of a new boot, as mine was full of cheese. took a punt on one that had a dent in it but look solid. Finally got around to getting it blasted and primed at Autoblast and, other than coming back in the wrong primer and having a couple of dents in it, it looks ace - not a spot of rust in it. New one on top of old one: Have started seam sealing the underside, started with the front left wheel arch. Initially tried masking up the lines to give a cleaner finish but have decided that isn't worth the effort; a finger swipe gives the best outcome. (as an aside when Wurth say their seam sealer is 'brushable' they're using that term very optimistially) Hopefully have the underside seam sealed by the weekend touch wood.
    1 point
  29. Pining for this. Bike has changed from FX powered to 140 powered due to weight and space issues. Big fat rear tyre I liked has had to be a bit smaller. About to cut a headstock from one bike and weld it to mine. Life is good. 101 days to go.
    0 points
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