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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/01/21 in all areas

  1. its all coming together nicely. i had a fault with the idle speed controller which turned out to be a short in the loom so i fixed that. i needed more travel in the clutch to fully disengage it so i changed the master to a 13/16 bore and its perfect now. honestly the clutch is like your driving a corolla, its that good. so i have been doing some Ks in it to bed the clutch before the dyno on Friday and everything is working perfectly, im super stoked with it all. i cant really give it any stick because the tune is wrong for this turbo and it might shit itself so im being gentle. which sucks. the other thing i did was make a tool to aid adjusting the cams during the dyno session on firday. its really hard to see what your doing and its hard to accurately adjust them so im hoping this tool will make life easier. 2021-08-01_04-21-50 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-42 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-26 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-33 by sheepers, on Flickr
    23 points
  2. Trans adapter time. As mentioned earlier the 722.6 doesn't bolt up to a M180/M127/M129/M130 engine even through the bolt patterns look very similar (with the inline engine version of a 722.6 bellhousing at least). So I had a conundrum on how to go about this, taking into consideration things like starter location, ring gear location, keeping things concentric, making sure the torque convertor is seated once its all together etc. There's several things that ended up providing the answer for me. Firstly the starter; On the M130 the starter is on the right hand side of the engine, the factory sandwich plate that sits between the engine and gearbox has a provision for the starter. however on the 722.6 trans the starter clearance bulge is on the the left hand side. So which side of the motor do you want your starter? if you scroll up a post of two you'll see the oil filter housing sits on the left hand side of the motor, right where the starter would be, so you can't make use of the 722.6s starter mount. In which case you're now using the engines OG starter, which means you'll want to keep the ring gear in the original location... So I yoinked the manual trans off that engine and too some measurements and drew some circles in Fusion360 Then realized I'd mucked up the overall diameter of the thing, luckily this was prior to sending away files to the laser cutters. Sent some files off and they sent back some lumps of metal Have a 12mm spacer for the end of the crank, and a 3mm thick flexplate, plan is to scavenge one of the ring gears off the manual flywheels I have and weld that to the flexplate. I spent a rainy Sunday attempting to measure the bolt pattern for both the engine and the trans and had a test piece cut out of 3mm plate at the same time (the disc on the left) if my measurements were right I was going to get a thicker one cut and run that but you can see from the ticks and crosses on it only about a 1/3 of the holes lined up. Ended up getting a 12mm thick piece laser cut (the disc on the right) that utilized one of the factory dowel pins on the trans, that was to be my starting point. clamped precariously in place, the OD was large enough to blank off the now unneeded starter bulge on the left hand side Went around and marked out the holes I'd be using that didn't clash with any of the holes I would need on the sandwich plate, tapped one of them using the shitty tap set I had before buying a Volkel tap set based on someone on heres recommendation, holy moley did that improve my outlook on life. Whoever made that recommendation deserves an ice cream. Ended up here: Jealous of my phone? Whilst doing that the torque convertor was sitting on the bench next to the trans, at some point I moved the trans and knocked the converter onto the floor which caused a drama for later on but we won't talk about that. Did some maths at this point. Decided if I wanted to run a 12mm thick adapter plate I'd need to reduce the thickness of the sandwich plate by ~11mm, a buddy came through and was able to do that for me, I have a spare plate if this doesn't work out, comparing the two post surgery: That's the relatively easy side done, next step was to join that to the engine whilst keeping the trans concentric to the crank (well as much as I could anyway). There's a small win here in that the OD of the pilot on the torque convertor is the same as the ID on the end of that crank where the pilot bearing would normally go for the original manual trans (35mm). I carried this measurement over to the ID of the crank spacer so the Torque convertor could locate on it, the spacer picks up the OG dowel pin on the end of the crank so based on that assumption of it being a straight line I bolted the spacer up to the crank and slid the trans up to it, docking the torque convertor pilot in the hole. Took a brave pill and wiggled it so the trans looked straight up and down against the engine, rather than tipped to one side, and marked out the two holes for the starter then drilled and tapped those. Bolted everything back together, so far everything is lining up. took the trans off, leaving the adapter bolted to the sandwich plate on the engine, removed these two as one: Was then able to flip it over, mark out some holes and drill and tap those. Then the moment of truth, putting it all together... Booyah! that shit is attached. Had to do a bit of fettling but was bugger all. I need to change the blade on my vertical bandsaw so I can trim the excess off the OD of the adapter. Current issue is that its too tight between the flexplate and the converter, they rotate as one without being bolted together. We didn't get exactly 11mm off the plate when we machined it down, it ended up being about 11.2mm which I think is part of where the problem is, it's bringing the trans and engine too close together, in hindsight I probably should have aimed for 10mm. I think to get around this I might skim a bit off the end of the converter so it can sit further inside the bellhousing when seated, but I'm not sure how much clearance the input shaft of the trans should have inside the converter before it bottoms out, surely 1mm less isn't the end of the world? Anyone got any insight?
    5 points
  3. Deck complete, fencing done. Schedule has us completed next week with asphalted driveway ready for my landscaper. Very close to getting this back on the market....
    4 points
  4. Great ride and Great nice to meet you all! Thanks, and look forward to catching up again!
    3 points
  5. Something something something maybe I'll get it together this weekend
    3 points
  6. Sorry for late reply/update on todays meet. Just had a very keen k11 foamer visit us so its been a whirlwind of nissan March chat. Anyway- yeah as Will said- great turn out. Thanks so much to those that made the effort to come along. What a great bunch of mates to know. I totally enjoyed the banter at the picnic table today and it was worth the trip for that alone. Pies were great (for those of us lucky enough to get one- sadly a large bunch of motorcyclists had also decided that Pelorus bridge for lunch was a good idea and I think they scoffed most of the pies) I took a few pics (well Hannah did) so here we go...
    2 points
  7. Just to add a pic this is what a 1980 XS850 standard looks like. This is not my bike, but in 1994 this is very close to what it looked like 825cc, 3 cylinder dohc shaft drive. I now have an original seat, mine is stock standard apart from replacement mufflers and carb setup. I am looking at going back to the 3 carbs, if I can find someone to sell me some.
    2 points
  8. Taking Felicity out to get a drink from the local liquor shop and an angry sounding beautiful XT pulled in behind. Couldn't resist a photo. Much excited as time for exhaust and sundry bits of fabrication!
    2 points
  9. Got some more things fixed she's getting better I got an entire manual conversion but keeping her auto for now. Today is fixing small things like alarm made it hard to start sometimes must be a loose connection then door lock was jamming locked and suspension knock which was wheel bearings
    2 points
  10. Braided lines for the turbo and just the drain to go starting to get her together now looking better than what I did previously definitely learnt from my mistakes
    2 points
  11. So starting on this again with a hiss and roar I got my engine together and in the car bought another running engine and pulled my one out and put this one in so I can continue the forged build on my Evo 3 engine haha
    2 points
  12. right so, its all back together. but first, new clutch. its a niteparts designed unit which holds heaps of torque but drives like a normal car. this thing is huge. check out the friction plate on top of the Giken twin plate unit! 20210713_184945 by sheepers, on Flickr 20210713_184938 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-44-05 by sheepers, on Flickr 20210713_183646 by sheepers, on Flickr right so then i put the motor back in the car. had to mod the turbo dump pipe. also had to mod the intercooler piping by the throttle body to include a new larger blow off valve. other things done include all new pipe work to and from the turbo and all new hoses for the wastegate. im waiting on a new intercooler which should be here in a couple of weeks too. and tonight i took it for a drive round the block, so far so good. noo doortz though as it needs to be tuned with the new turbo. its booked on the dyno on the 6th of August. 2021-07-21_08-32-36 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-32-14 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-32-24 by sheepers, on Flickr
    2 points
  13. Recently picked up one of those generic 220l freestanding blasting cabinets, so I could set to work blasting/primering/painting the rear suspension/bag mounts etc in several batches. Such a time consuming task but super satisfying seeing once scummy parts come out looking new. Need to replace the window and do an LED light upgrade to the blasting cabinet before I can do anymore (the front suspension bits). Can't see shit in it anymore. Ended up cutting the wheel bearings off the half shalfs so I could paint the drum brake backing plate. Don't have a press so might try the axle in freezer, bearing in oven trick for fitting the new bearings I have before I go door knocking around the neighbourhood trying to find someone with a press I can borrow. Then I can finally get the diff back together in one piece. The whole diff hangs from a rubber bush that sits in the boot floor, I've got a new one of these bushes on its way from Germany as the original is suitably flogged but it seems the replacement one is on the slow boat so who knows when that will get here, but I need it to refit the diff so bit of a stalemate there. Also picked up a 722.6 trans out of an early 2000s W203 that suffered a timing chain failure (like most of them do). these don't bolt up to the M180/M130 family of engines so I need to make up an adapter plate, which is my next job will also need a controller for it but that can wait. I've gone the complicated route of gaining a lock up torque convertor and a 5th gear, but a man wants what a man wants. Until next time.
    2 points
  14. I brought a bucket-list car! With money to burn from the Datsun 1200 sale, I was watching the market like a hawk. Lots of O.K stuff, lots of stuff that’s 5k darer than it should be, nothing really grabbed me. I had a flurry on a 180b SSS but timing was crook, I looked at the black Chrysler Windsor sedan on trademe with lust (should have got that one perhaps!). We spend 3.5 days at muscle car madness every year and I knew there had to be something interesting for sale out there. there wasn’t. on Saturday morning I spotted an auction for this 1970 coronet, freshly imported, in the South Island, only a wee bit above budget. Should I whack on a bid as a placeholder until the weekend was over and risk a bidding war that blew the budget totally? I asked some questions and never got a reply. I was erect. I scurried round the show and parking lot and couldnt see anything I needed. the ad looked to be written by an excited 10yr old. Spelling mistakes, grammar, murdered punctuation, rambling. It had it all. Through all the Fuckery and the new headache I’d got from re-reading the auction I decided I can fix anything and I can buy practically everything it needed brand new. I hit buy now on the Mopar Long painful story short the guy was in his own world, wouldn’t tell me where to send the transporter to collect, and had it in his mind his mate would do it for 3x what a truck costs me. eventually to make it all go away I said if you can do it for half price and deliver it Sunday I’ll do it. he arrived at 9pm on Saturday night, unloaded it and took the battery home. Rad, thanks. Also forgot the paperwork which is crucial for compliance. I managed to find the American for-sale advert during the week.. Oh my, it didn’t look anything like it does in the trademe shots. Thankful I did as it shows what’s hidden..And had some cool spares in the boot and ‘cuda Steels. (These never came to me, not a single spare part, who knows where they ended up) arrived on shithouse wheels with a flat tyre and the wrong wheelnuts. https://classiccarsbay.com/for-sale-1970-dodge-coronet-in-knightstown-indiana-319 we found the video he mentions, Cheered me up to hear it run nicely. Anyway, once he’d gone I had a poke around with the torch and my heart sank, it looked like a total sack of shit but still choice looking! To save a heap of uploads, here’s a link to the album. https://imgur.com/a/fDejyvy I got it into the shed and had a decent look about, so much misery. the ass end is fucked. There’s a block of wood in the boot to help keep the leaf spring from pushing through the bootlid. There’s a 2inch stagger where the other chassis rail has rusted through and moved. it’s ok, I can & will get all the rails and pans n shit and get it repair certed and complied. It will be worth quite a lot when done. I had hoped to have it mobile in a month or 2 and be driving daily as I don’t currently have my own wheels. this ain’t happening, it needs all bushes and joints and mounts and seat belts and likely a bunch of other stuff unforeseen. The only recent components on it are carb, dizzy cap and rotor! it starts and runs lovely, sounds grouse, moves around well but no brakes at all, and cause the fuel tank is now a can in the enginebay I can’t really test drive. Interior isn’t bad, I can live with it for a while. Needs a grant-style steering wheel though! ..so here begins another fucking rusty resto. stay tuned while I survive on noodles and prison wine + sell everything I don’t need to fund the B-Body dream! DISCUSS
    1 point
  15. I think I may be owed an icecream. A photo will be sufficient.
    1 point
  16. I am still playing with @Kimjons battery. The Bluetooth battery monitor logging is brilliant. I thought my desulphation charger thing only had a set voltage but turns out it alternates up and down for some reason. It is getting better, managed to actually run a discharge cycle on it yesterday.
    1 point
  17. Had a look at the rear brakes on the wagon - handbrake had all the travel and didn't work. Ordered pads/parking brake shoes as they were both a bit sad. Trying my luck with local rotors - rock are 111 landed for a pair. The "Those tires are super noisy and sound like buggered bearings but aren't" were actually rumbling wheel bearings after all. A quick poke around amayama and the legend or acura RL rear bearings are the same as the wagon - Thanks honda lego. Ordered a set off rock too. Hopefully that's everything parts wise
    1 point
  18. @RUNAMUCK +1 for comac. We use them at work. Almost always have what we need. No human interaction is a bonus
    1 point
  19. So as it was told to me, the cells share a common air path at the top but not electrolyte, having a few dead batteries in the shed I gave it a go, can confirm the battery I pulled the level plug from does not have a common air space, only poured a few ml of acid out, scratch that idea
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. If the weather's good in the morning then we'll see you there Alex!
    1 point
  22. Motor for crf? https://www.trademe.co.nz/3198270309 Honda 2 strokes been selling for a premium
    1 point
  23. I did not complete the two week challenge but I'm still chipping away. Aidan at Pine Engineering sent me these photos of the br-x completed last night @BobbyBreeze was kind enough to lend me a centre cap to replicate also which are just off being anodized I have a new set of Yokohama A539 in 175/60 and 185/60 at home ready to go also
    1 point
  24. I used to think that, i'm not convinced now. I think they have improved over time like everything else.
    1 point
  25. Dredging up a thread that was last updated 2010. Gotta be some sort of record. So XJ650 is long sold. XS850 is currently in storage unit beside the Ratrod. Waiting for house to sell and get into new place. Have got onto a lead for 750/850 parts in Rotorua and another guy in Christchurch. I'll put up some pics once in new enviroment
    1 point
  26. Remember how my master cylinder was rooted and pulled all the fluid into the booster? shane at powerstop brakes cleaned it up, reassembled and tested it after another shop tore it apart and quoted the earth to repair. He’s sleeving the master for me too. I’ve ordered another pcv valve. super stoked, Look him up for classic and modern/ABS brake solutions!
    1 point
  27. Installed shiny bolts. Lost the others so will tidy up and see where they went
    1 point
  28. More punishing daily updates. My genuine eurro R honda shifter lock nut (amayama is great) as my ocd has finally been annoyed after a few years of looking at the shift knob being crooked. Yes the cars a mess
    1 point
  29. May as well add the new addition to the fleet here. Picked up a 06 accord wagon for cheap off fb. Was a trade in deal and was cheap as it needed a set of tyres engine mounts and lca bushes for a wof according to the seller Because I'm a scumbag I grabbed a couple of mounts and the lcas off a car at zebra. Got lucky and someone had already taken the mounts out for me. There was a set of mudflaps I've been wanting for my daily accord which was a nice surprise. The reason it was traded in was made apparent when I was stuck in traffic It didn't get any hotter than that. It needed a litre of water and the cap was looking suspect so zebras finest cap to the rescue and I'll test it again
    1 point
  30. Also been continuing our decking and dug out for a new fence section.
    1 point
  31. Some more progress this weekend, alot of the interior fit out is well progressed.
    1 point
  32. Its moving day.... Here it will be sit for some undetermined amount of time... I may be able to get the wheels/tyres refurbed while it stays in storage but there wont be much of an update on this until I build my new shed. Been a good fun project so far and am itching to get the rest of it completed and on the road...
    1 point
  33. Steering column shortened, painted everything, got a clamp type u joint. now have steering again which I find useful
    1 point
  34. we are continuing the hard work on this old girl braided lines and a dream of getting it running again soon
    1 point
  35. A an t fitting so I can hopefully supply my heater and turbo with water see how this plan goes
    1 point
  36. My Datsun engine has a total loss replacement system. This is because of two reasons.. 1 : Its a British design engine with nothing more than an alloy head added (apparently..) 2 : It's been installed into a British car so its just trying to fit in with what goes with the territory.
    1 point
  37. 3k was probably so they had something to post about. Factory intervals (10 or 15k) for everything I've owned and never had an issue, including lunar orbit spec mileage on a few of them.
    1 point
  38. Assembled the calipers and mounted them to the axle. Almost complete.
    1 point
  39. Finally settled on a linkage kit that I liked from med-engineering.co.uk with a bit of luck I can retain the factory throttle cable. Reasonably priced at $216 delivered and comes with the balancing lever to join second carburetor. The Carter Fuel Pump has just shown up from Rock auto which has come with these handy instructions on installing Is the check valve linking pull hose to push hose acting as a recirculating return when the bowls are full? Another peice of advice I'm seeking is a recommendation for the driveshaft shortening in Auckland as 'Drive In' in New Lynn have said their driveshaft guy is off for 8-12 weeks with a hip replacement
    1 point
  40. Some of this weekends progress.... getting the little labour units to contribute...
    1 point
  41. Test fit carburetors Again just fouling on seat but thinner engine mount will remedy. Rear two trumpets are basically touching the sheet metal diving battery area and engine bay, wondering if I could use a die to pull two 60mm holes through with a dimple die leaving a lip for rigidity in the panel? Picked up a starter motor yesterday and installed, just noticed the headers are basically touching the solenoid, is this usual?
    1 point
  42. Oh man Every. Single. Time. It's like the first mod when you google "mods to do on subarus " is remove and throw away the heat shield
    1 point
  43. Cut your losses, remake it so it has clearance You need enough clearance for engine movement on the mounts, and it's going to move closer to the booster with engine torque Also need enough room for an effective heat shield with an air gap between both parts
    1 point
  44. The other fridge sadly didn't cool (coil holed where someone had enthusiastically de-iced it), so I pulled the gubbins out and gave it a quick sand and paint job... Nice vintage mint colour, I rate these spray bomb primer/paints, so easy... Squeezed it into the garage... And it's running an Ali STC-1000 controller, works well... This will be a bottle conditioning fridge and should work well enough over winter.. Will free up the other one for fermenting... Whacked some labels on while I was shifting botts over. A Barry forum told me to use milk as an adhesive, works bloody well... Mix of 500ml, 745 and 750ml bottles... plus a label on the top with brew info... And important safety message...
    1 point
  45. It's at the stage now where it looks like I've done fuck all Which is sort of true. Have been too busy to get a lot of time on it But have been chipping away at small jobs Carb rebuilt Alternator mounts made Throttle cable done Mod and painted the carb hat Calipers cleaned up and painted Radiator finished Hose shapes mocked up just have to find something that sort of fits Turbo oil drain 90% sorted just need a fitting for the block end Takes ages when everything needs blasting and painting and then it seems best to leave it for a week to harden properly
    1 point
  46. painted the spoiler and put it on. i think it looks ace. the other thing i did was to move the rear flares up to suit the wheel and match the arc better. something i wished id done ages ago. moving the flare allowed me to move the wheel out a bit more to fill the guard, it can easily go a bit more and ive ordered some wider spacers for the back. 2020-04-22_03-10-59 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-22_03-11-06 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-22_03-11-19 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-22_03-11-29 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
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