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Been looking at buying a jeep j20 ute for a few years , now that I've started a family I thought its time to get a sensible family wagon.. she's a jap import un-complied wagon with a blown up dinosaur emissions strangled 360 amc v8. first thing is an engine conversion, please give me your thoughts on what would be a good swap *I have a 15b toyota diesel 4.1L turbo 4 cylinder that I have priced up a 12mm 200cc pump for $2200 and a g-turbo red wheel for $2800 which should give good torque. *LS? *hemi? can buy late model with 4wd auto tranny. *duramax? don't want to spend more than 10K on parts for the swap if possible.

right so, its all back together. but first, new clutch. its a niteparts designed unit which holds heaps of torque but drives like a normal car. this thing is huge. check out the friction plate on top of the Giken twin plate unit! 20210713_184945 by sheepers, on Flickr 20210713_184938 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-44-05 by sheepers, on Flickr 20210713_183646 by sheepers, on Flickr right so then i put the motor back in the car. had to mod the turbo dump pipe. also had to mod the intercooler piping by the throttle body to include a new larger blow off valve. other things done include all new pipe work to and from the turbo and all new hoses for the wastegate. im waiting on a new intercooler which should be here in a couple of weeks too. and tonight i took it for a drive round the block, so far so good. noo doortz though as it needs to be tuned with the new turbo. its booked on the dyno on the 6th of August. 2021-07-21_08-32-36 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-32-14 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-07-21_08-32-24 by sheepers, on Flickr

New gearbox seal, cleaned up and painted the exhaust with heat stuff. Having trouble firing it up. Have spark, air and fuel to the carbs. Bit hard to see if the fuels getting pulled in, we've tried pouring fuel down the throats but it still wont ignite. Confirmed I'm not 180 by looking under the rocker cover and rotating the motor over. Starting to think the timing mark on the crank pulley is not the correct mark. Will take the rocker cover off again and double check everything lines up where it should.

Slowly been chipping away at bits. Have cleaned up and painted most the underside parts. Still trying to find some good axles so I can build the rear end and attach it to the van. Looks like I will have to get the axles resplined by a local engineer. Pulled the heater box apart to check it all out. Need to find/make a new resistor? So I get the 2 fan speeds, then that can be reassembled.

That's criminal! My old work van was previous shape to what you have, was 2.4L manual and i'd get 400km or so to a tank. Loaded up with tools. I think they are just turds really. Made zero difference how I drove it, just a turd on the fuel. I'd even test with a tank driving like a nana and a tank driving like I stole it (still stupidly slow) and the fuel economy was the same. I used to have a 2L (3SGE) 4WD auto RAV4 and it would use 45L ish for 350km. So add some weight and the fuel economy is about the same. edit More modern 2.4L auto (CVT) Corolla in the fleet uses half the fuel and would be twice as fast as the RAV4, not a problem. With the price of fuel, if you do big mileage, could even be worth selling it to buy something better on fuel. Previous work van was a 2012ish Transit diesel, so much faster and would net 9km/L fully loaded. 80L tank meant 750km or so between fills, bliss.

3k was probably so they had something to post about. Factory intervals (10 or 15k) for everything I've owned and never had an issue, including lunar orbit spec mileage on a few of them.

Assembled the calipers and mounted them to the axle. Almost complete.

Semi ling but not really worth starting a thread, has anyone mucked around with the Holden 3.8 motors? Pretty keen on another fun car but priced out of VL's, VN SS' etc. Seen a few people in Aussie with turbo 3.8's, anyone done it? Just want a fun street car that I could do the odd skid in/take to the drags occasionally. Thinking 255's, LSD and a turbo (just want it to do hektik doses tbh). Sound plausible or nah? Also inb4 V6's are yuck.

Hens teeth now. Upwards of $2500 a set probably. I contemplated offering my set up for $2000 at one point. Maybe ask $750 each and see what the consensus is. Crap tyres. Should probably just burn them or put on the silage.

Things are moving along at a pace I'm really enjoying. Front suspension is now out, I was concerned the steering linkages would put up a fight but having collected many forms of 4wd ball joint splitters over the years everything came out with ease. For the record, this is the rust spot I was originally set to tackle, and the catalyst for this rebuild Last load of interior and parts shipped away to storage over the weekend, actually quite glad to not have the interior getting in the way or risking overspray/dust. And today after @ProZac's suggestion a while back of cleaning wiring harnesses in ultrasonic cleaners I put one of the door trims through a cycle, very impressed, will trade again!

Why would you want to change it that often? I do 10k for normal cars, or 5k for highly strung or boosted cars. Good oils on modern cars will run further than that happily (or in the case of the daily, which is currently 4k overdue, oops).

Dial in your tyre pressure Remove rubbish from back 100mph tape over all panel gaps Fuel card

drive slower

Yes please.

^ I shall probably womble along to that. The girls will hate it. Anyone want pics?

Yeah gidday. Need to know info FRIDAY 12TH, SATURDAY 13TH, SUNDAY 14th, NOVEMBER 2021 600km, approximately 200km/day. 160-170km between gas at worst. Book your own accommodation $20huk for vehicle fuel money So if you're in here you probably have some idea what the game is, hop on your little bike, come for a 3 day ride through quiet roads, in less populated areas. Please see other similar endeavours, refresh your mind, and the foam at your bungholes. Eastcapescapade 2017 Eastcapescapade 2018 TeUrewera Undertaking 2019 TeUrewera Undertaking 2020 Route This year will be closest to our 2018 route. Except between Gisborne and Te Araroa on day two, we will travel an inland route through hill country and forestry. Route is over public roads, tarseal and gravel. Recommend riders are comfortable with gravel, but can travel at their own pace, and learn as you go. Day one from near Ohope to Gisborne, via Motu Rd and Rere Rockslide and Falls. Day two from Gisborne into the hills, to Te Araroa/Hicks Bay for the night, optional side trip to lighthouse. Day three from Te Araroa, follow the coast back through Ohope to our starting point. Wainui to Gisborne Day 1 by John Bell, on Flickr Gisborne to Te Araroa Day 2 by John Bell, on Flickr Te Araroa to Wainui Day 3 by John Bell, on Flickr Accommodation So night one in Gisborne is easy, I intend to stay at the Waikanae Beach Motel, they should be able to house most of us, and there's plenty of choice pretty close by. Everyone group up and try and keep tabs on who you've agreed to share rooms with. https://www.waikanaebeachmotel.co.nz/ https://top10.co.nz/park/waikanae-beach-top-10-holiday-park Night two up the Cape could be somewhat of a compromise. Neither Te Araroa Holiday Park, or the nearby Hicks Bay Motel can house all of us if our numbers get up a bit. I have booked a unit at the Te Araroa Holiday Park, they have a number of units and bunk rooms available, plus lots of tent space. Some options will require linen etc. The website isn't completely accurate, and things operate on coast time there, send Bill an email and let me know if there is any issue. Some of us will probably end up staying at the Hicks Bay Motel just over the hill. http://www.teararoaholidaypark.nz/ https://www.hicksbaymotel.co.nz/ I may update this post to include things I'm missing or if changes come about. What am I missing? Attendees @johnnyfive @HighLUX tortron @anglia4 BucketBaz @Truenotch @Itchybear @Duke Blackwood @Dolan Lee W @MopedNZ @GuyWithAviators Shakotom @Kass @TimShadboltfan27 @MaxPower Kelven M @Pee Dubs Tumeke Vintagegrumble @iwanttobeamole @Tofa Dan W @GregH Ganga Purvy Johno @Atex Shannon D Jamie peteretep threeonthetree slacker_cam Julia71 sentra KarlD RykH @keltik (Vehicle) datlow MattN DarrenP 64valiant @Mitch.W Current as at 11-11-21

Overkill, i'd do 5,000km / 12 months minimum. If the engine is in good nick, then 10,000km / 12 months. /beaten

You dont mean 3k MILES do you, which is almost 5K KM?

Tbh, I got into cars from owning an MR2 3k seemed to be the consensus amongst the mr2oc guys.

Yuus gots me a proper spoiler. Think ive sused some better side skirts. Then just gota get off my backside and prep for paint

definitely plausible. check out nugget garage and cornfedboost on youtube, plus google performanceforums for v6 holden stuff its certainly doable. BA falcon with barra would be better? but in reality really better doesnt matter as long as it doses and skids to your satisfaction moo is still going to moo though also I would note you need to put as much thought into the gearbag/diff holding and putting down the power as the turbo stuff. autos can usually hold the power and put it down but may need some fettling of electronics or valvebody type stuff depending on the box.

I bought a set of new 14" ones about 10 years ago and I think they were $250 each or thereabouts But 13" ones were not remade as far as I know and are now super rare so I guess you could ask whatever you like? If someone wanted to do a period correct car with 13s they would be a key ingredient

Apologies for new school spam everyone @loest8 I reckon the next best wheels are the 18" Prisma wheels from the Atlas. They look good on everything but the Atlas.

Cheers man - looks like it is the wrong one for the XE. Appreciate you looking into it for me. The C4 is for the 302W and it appears that I have sourced one incl cooler, lines, blue XE console shifter and it's been rebuilt. I might even be getting the d shaft as the current owner is going Tremec.

It's an 8 year old battery. Learn to be a bit more wasteful would you? I'd biff it regardless. It's supposed to be a sealed unit and even if you bodge it up unless you're sure the adhesive won't be compromised by the acid I wouldn't waste the time and effort.

I like the way that you write so clearly, and photograph so well that there is plenty of information for someone to follow the process along at home with their own vehicle.

We left our story with the discovery of a few tiny little rust holes. Our Hero @yoeddynz had his work cut out for him (a bit like the rust he found) I don't actually know what he did TBH, but he did send me some photos so I'll make my own story which is all 100% correct at time of publication*: 1. ROOF Holes previously found enbiggened, Alex played with a brass pencil and inserted lots of old rust filings into the hole he found from a Hillman Imp. Then he and added some black stuff and steel. Also tinted windows with plastic. Pleased with himself, he repeated the exercise on the other side also, while making some wooden boxes for his quad. A professional jigsaw enthusiast, he had no problems finding a piece of metal that fitted the exact hole he had cut out earlier. Metal glue applied to ensure it won't fall out. Note the colour -matched black & decker suspension adjustment tool. He then found two more pieces of steel and repeated the process on the co-pilot side, adding curtains to the passenger compartment also. The pencil now balanced on the roof. Happy with his efforts, he made more holes above the boot to be able to have another go Suck/blow/suck/blow repeat until tender and golden. All shiny and water-tight A spray of some black stuff for protection and that'll do for now. Gosh what a magic fixer guy! Also the observant of you will note that @Slacker_Sam. had found some brand new tyres and generously fitted them to make moving the car somewhat easier and safer. Tune in next time for more rust discovery, broken stuff and much excite. *could be?

Any photos I'd share at this point would be more at home in the Design Disasters thread, but let's just say a new dump pipe has been tacked up which is miles away from the booster and about an inch and a half from the clutch master. What a mission

I didn't want an Aux cord floating about so I went and grabbed a bluetooth adapter. This one from Logitech had good reviews and required 5V power so I hacked up an old 12V usb converter. I needed to access the pairing button on the top when it was installed so I drilled a hole to suit and tucked the adapter underneath the head unit. I then tidied up all the wiring, replaced the 4 inch speakers and installed everything in the car. Really pleased with the result. You can switch between bluetooth and AM radio with the tape insert button and the bluetooth unit automatically pairs with my phone when I turn the ignition on. Sound quality is not bad considering the setup, goes hard for what it is etc.

I temporarily wired it up on the bench to test and it worked! Next step was to package everything together and install it in the car. The original mounting plate had been hacked up and no longer fit so I decided to employ the 3D printer to produce a new one. Here it is next to the original, finished in PETG. And reassembled on the bench.

Rebuilt the old cnc router. Runs heaps more reliably now. Brought some 50x50x3 aluminium extrusion at put it to work on some brackets. Finished and painted. With the Valves and sensor fitted. Mounted into the trunk.

The last few trips over the remutakas was really really bad. So before the Motueka trip I gave it a compression check which pretty much confirmed it. I ended up picking up a complete motor, gearbox and radiator from a runner up the road. It all looks pretty promising with a new waterpump, hoses and other a few other parts. Queens birthday weekend I pulled the old one out and put the new one in. I cleaned up the new one, gave it some paint and put in a new clutch, pressure plate, waterpump barb, radiator, and changed over my electronic dizzy, carbs, fuel pump and extractors. I ended up cutting the exhaust off just after the extractors so I need to weld on some flanges, sort the timing and fill it with fluids then it's good to go. Fingers crossed it actually makes an improvement.

Still using this when I can and taking it on regular trips. Most notably I took this down to Nelson and Motueka last September for a bike trip. Had no issues other then a weird oil vapour smell. I put it down to over filling the oil, I couldnt get a clear reading on the stick, and it clogging up the pvc valve. I was lucky enough to spot another escort parked up along one the bays and the retired guy was happy enough to lend me a few tools to remove some of the excess oil. Have just done general maintenance to it like replacing the rack bushes which were non existant and made for an exciting drive home.

Had a play with the sunroof the other night, things been a bitch to open and close since the resto, put some of it down to not having a headliner to help pull the second bow forward, but it also a dickhole going the other way. Had a good look and tried the second set of hole in the end of the wheel holder thing. Much better! Why the fuck hans drilled the second set I do not know. The only other instructions I've been able to find say bend the outer runner to fit? Was never sure how. After some careful prodding with a screwdriver and little progress, I found the use of the round hole in the runner. The two small rollers inside need to be even so the bow moves smoothly, by putting a screwdriver in the hole in the opposite side you can easily and gently bend the steel to just the right tension. Clever hans. These are castor shims, and longer beam bolts. These improve the road manners of a lowered vw at highway speeds. I already had a set installed but on very low cars, another is needed. As the shims space the bottom beam away from the pan longer bolts are required. Managed to install them without dropping the beam out. Easily the best 40-50 bucks I've ever spent on the car, it will sit on 60-70mph, one hand on the wheel, relax. Before you needed to keep your wits about you as it was very twitchy and unsettled. Now, just need to sort the vibration at and after 70mph, the deafening noise and smell of hot engine fumes and we're sweet. An't she cute dough?

It's been a super long week but I finally painted the body. Its come up pretty damn straight but unfortunately I also have a few runs which will need sanding out. Absolutely stoked to get it to this stage but plenty more work to come.