Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/10/21 in all areas

  1. So took this down to Brass Monkey. Was an epic 6 days of riding with good people on some great roads. Was excellent not having to worry about anything bike related (except fuel) during the trip. These things are so tractable, comfortable and easy to live with. Bloody magic. Gear selection continues to amuse me. At 100 you can choose any gear from 2nd to 6th depending on how rapidly you think you need to be accelerating. 6th gear at 100 is still going to pull away harder than most cars so usually no point in changing down. Cruising through town at 50 I tend to choose a gear based on how much noise pollution I feel they need. The rack worked flawlessly and it was handy being able to access the storage so easily. My stropping down on gear was not as flawless and I lost a spendy camp matress somewhere between Blenheim and kaikoura...but was a small price to pay for an otherwise great trip I really need a new chain now, shits fucked.
    9 points
  2. New toys! We are extremely grateful to have a space to work on our truck - it's not a small project. However, there is no power at the part of the property where it lives. We've reached this point using 18v DeWalt powered aggression, but that won't cut the mustard when metal needs sticking together rather than chopping to bits. Enter this big bastard. This is hopefully punchy enough to run anything we can chuck at it, and after the build is finished will serve as the backup generator for our solar setup. However, quality control was a bit sub-par. While testing the generator I noticed it was dripping diesel, and it was pooling inside the case. Removing some of the panels revealed the culprit, a poorly placed hose clip. Snugged up and reassembled, we had power! The next big box to arrive was this: Which contains one of these https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/560-toolshed-metal-cutting-bandsaw After the saw was assembled, it started to earn it's keep straight away by sectioning bits of angle iron (cut from the massive frame that originally housed the pump). Combined with a stainless steel roller from the hose reel, it spawned a roller stand for easier handling of the 8m long steel box section that is supposed to be arriving imminently. Another job that got ticked off today was what to do with the isolation wood that lived between the chassis rails and original tank body. You can see one of the original wood runners modelling the bandsaw setup above. When I discovered this originally I thought it was a bit of a bodge, but research revealed that it's a pretty common practice to use wood for this for a few reasons - isolating harmonics, stopping metal/metal squeaking as the chassis flexes, and allowing a convenient standoff for the raised rivets and captive nuts that dot the upper surfaces of the chassis rails. After some mulling, we've decided to stick with this setup for our build too. If it was good enough for Mills Tui and lasted 3 decades... The frame we are building will be longer than the original body, extending forward through where the pump section (between cab and tank) was originally. The contact area will be just under 3.7m long, while the current wood sections are just over a metre short of that. A tour of the local timber merchants lead to one of them rummaging through some shelves out back and finding the perfect piece of hardwood timber - exactly 3.7m long, the same thickness as the originals, and wide enough to get 2 strips from. We will use the originals as templates for the holes, then drill more at the 'front' ends to accommodate the lumpy bumpy chassis rails. Steel box section for the body is (allegedly) arriving any day now, current plan is thus; Ignore the lack of roof, luton floor, and incomplete 25x25mm wall verticals - the former two are hidden on this view as the picture was too cluttered, and the latter hasn't been finalised yet until we pick up some doors and windows to plan around. Following the chat in the discussion thread, we've decided to follow @yoeddynz's sage advice and have the body pop-off-able incase of spectacular mechanical failure. Should make construction easier anyway! Thanks for the discussion and tips so far.
    8 points
  3. Righto so while i was away on my swing some more parts showed up , an axle set of wheel nuts ( i dont know why i didnt just get a full set) a belt and the brakes pads! So over the last couple days I replaced the front end brakes. new calipers,bolts, slide bushes etc, and hoses. what a right cunt the hoses were until I remembered an ancient technique.... a chisel to convince the securing speed nut on the inside to wind off. little bit mangled now but the thread part was fine so that's ok. and vice grips cracked the lines. I kind of want to redo them at some point ... totally get how a weekend job turns into the vehicle being pulled apart forever. Anyhow while that was happening i was also playing around with de-rusting options. i got some phosphoric acid and threw all the rear brake stuff in to see the go. i actually worked far better then i expected and the results were on the order of hours. then I got excited and tried to set up a electrolysis rig but my simple trickle charger was dead. Boooo anyhow pics. Old brakes rotors werent done beacuse they have millions of life left and are spensive to get over. And done , all of two items , they took way too long to do . pro tip, dont lose the locating clip that holds the inner brake pads onto the piston. because they are octupus arms spec otherwise. The 'seized' caliper.. piston popped clean out. of course that would happen The inside of the caliper.... gross. then some rust removal experiments One of the adjustors, it got split so the acid could get into everything. After, cant remember if i put them in last night or this morning. soo Bolt and nut for holding the brake lines onto the upper control arm Fizzing away Bolts all done , pretty impressed and for little effort. Next is to do the suspsension bushes because they look so hideous, and the engine mounts because they are f-f-f-f-f-f-f Fucked After I get my own place, because things. Thank you for visiting
    7 points
  4. Time to work on car stuff has been stretched a little thin, but have made some slow progress. Took the head off, and found yep, valves bent. But no other damage. Valve seats looked fine and so did pistons. Cool! So for now I'll just fix it up and drive without VVTI. I pulled the valves out of my 2NZ motor (same part number) and sent the head off down the road to the engine place to lap the valves in and refit the valve springs. Hopefully get it back by the weekend maybe. There was another Vitz RS at Zebra so I went and pinched another C56, hopefully this one is a little more enthusiastic about going into gear. I'm getting pretty good at pulling motor/box out of these things. It's much easier once you know the order of things. I will keep current box in for now, and fit LSD into this spare one and check all of the synchros in it while it's apart. If they're bad, I will pinch the ones from my standard Echo gearbox as that thing shifts gear wonderfully. Assuming they're the same. Also just before my valves went asplode, I bought these for some lols / traction. Two of the tyres are a bit chooched but will hopefully do a trackday or three with them on the rear. (that does hardly any work anyway) Havent tried them yet but should be a laugh.
    5 points
  5. Not too sure about pic troubles? Thanks to Liz having a birthday and weather being too poos for work outside I got a bit of time to get into this again. Want to completely strip it down to figure out what bits to buy to save on postage. No doubt I'll forget a few bits but want to get on and get stuff. So got the frame naked. Bubble wrap underneath to catch the big lumps of grease/old dirt etc. Was not too bad to strip down, only used cut off disc once on a shitty bolt holding front mudguard. Front mud guard had been cut and overlapped to shorten, with hand beaten rivets. Girders had a shit load of play in the top pin, once apart found that bushes were unsurprisingly well worn, one crumbled to sweet f all. Luckily there had been a heap of grease pumped into the nipples so it all came apart fairly well. This is the bit at top of the headset, small hole on right is mounting for main spring, large hole is where the centre of headset comes up through. Strange crack through it. No big drama as I have another one. Handle bar has been welded to the mounts, behind this is a rubber bush. Probably welded to stop bar spinning, then got the ugly gutter bolts when welds failed. Yuk. Headset bearings pretty good, lower race not perfect but once again I have another which looks better, new replacements available too, ex UK.
    4 points
  6. We have a screen rubber! And if you zoom in, cancer it seems. knocked out these two wee bits in the bottom of the front window channel. i friggin lost the other piece I cut out, but at least I know it’s not inside the scuttle
    2 points
  7. Thanks! We're removing it for a range of reasons, we want to media blast the body so gotta remove all the things - there's a chance we don't do this but... ...it's dirty as all hell down there and at the very least we want to deal with that. the engine is also manky a.f. the coolant, air, etc pipes are in poor condition - stuff and crunchy with bits falling out of them - it needs a thorough see to, among other various hoses and electrical bits, easier to deal with all that with the engine out the engine itself is probably fine (we ran it, poorly, probs just a timing issue) but it seems to have the signs of an engine that could use some love. Cross-threaded spark plugs, suspect compression, oil seepage. I'm not sure how far I want to go with it but I figure if I'm going OCD on the rest of the car and learning a bajillion other skills, I might as well see what I can do with the engine while its out (even if that just means sending it off to someone else to deal with) We're going a bit hundy for newbies I suppose but I've never liked half-assing things and the motivation's managed to stick around
    2 points
  8. Notch kit ready to fit I drew it on some cardboard and got it laser cut from 4mm and the top and bottom folded If my measurements are right it should fit under the tray floor with 1x tray crossmember removed , retains 100mm chassis rail height, and 40mm suspension travel before it contacts the bump stops so it meets all the cert minimum requirements The outers are drilled for plug welds and the inners have a big fish mouth to help the transition from floppy channel chassis to box. I did those bits myself cause I figured it was easier than trying to explain to the laser cutting guy what I wanted
    2 points
  9. So, present for the wife... I went and bought some oak Had some fun with chisel, sander and son Made some pockets and some holes Made some brackets Test fit after final welding Added some oil and vinegar Chemfixed the brackets to the wall And let the wife be happy and do her thing... cheers, thanks for watching!
    2 points
  10. 2 points
  11. Hi all, I've been meaning to post this up for some time, but was finally inspired to put finger to keyboard after a sharncall with @yoeddynz last night. @PastyDynamite and I bought this for ourselves as a Christmas present, with the goal of housetruck conversion and living the pikey dream. She (the Hino, not Meg), is a retired Hino FF173 double cab. She was converted into a fire engine by Mills Tui in Rotorua, and served time in Bulls, Foxton, Ratana and Kaiaua and racked up approx 43000km in that time. She was listed locally on TM, and it turned out the guy selling her was the husband of one of my co-workers. He owns a heavy/ag machinery sales company, and bought this a couple of years ago and stashed it in his shed because he liked it. Unfortunately his wife didn't, hence the sale. As you might expect from a low-mileage ex-fire truck, it seems mechanically solid and drove really well on our test drive. By the time we took posession, she had been gutted of her pump, but its cradle and rad dials/hardware remained, as well as the beautifully constructed 2700L water tank/gear stowage section. Also missing are the beacons and siren, though there is still a sweet toggle that makes the front marker lights flash in a left-right alternating pattern. Deconstruction started in earnest - without any heavy lift gear we decided to remove as much bulk as possible. We also want to retain as much of the more interesting bare materials for exterior/interior reuse. Initially the pump cradle (all steel) came out in two bits. Thanks to @Goat for the assist and regular help/brainstorming! Next, the hosereel, ladder mounts, tank lid and baffles were removed. After much mulling, we removed the aluminium cladding and decided to split a third of the tank section (lateral to the chassis) off, then tip the remaining two thirds off of the other side. This brings us to the current state of play, where we have a rather stumpy looking doublecab on a bare chassis. Another job that needed doing was repair or replacement of the fuel tank. The old girl is pretty low on ferrous oxide, but had accumulated water in the (absorbable) padding between (steel) tank and (steel) tank straps, and rotted both sides of the equation out. Found a compatible, marginally better nick version from a breaker and tarted it up. On the subject of crusty bits, the cab has a few areas where water has sat beneath chequer plate and eroded the firmament beneath. Meg got to cutting and sticking. We have considered a number of designs for the body and its mounting method. The construction style that seemed most promising was a composite box, a la expedition trucks, chiller trucks etc, as they are strong, light, and really well insulated. Something like this: However, they're also super expensive; we got a rough estimate of $50-60k for the box alone from one place, others that would supply panels for self assembly were cheaper (but not significantly) and would come with the added logistical headache of assembling a monster structure. Back to the drawing board (aka Fusion 360). New-old plan is to make up a simple flat bed, then construct a frame-and-cladding house box on top of it. The old tank body was attached with 6x chunky bolts through the plate bridging the back of the chassis rails, and some monster sprung-bolts at the front to allow for chassis flex, similar to this but much heavier duty: Suspect we'll end up re-using this method for the bed. If it's good enough for a lump of aluminium and 2.7t of water it'll probably be enough for the house module. Some older versions of CADding that I've got screenshotted, the subframe between chassis and body is likely to be quite different to these, but it gives the idea... ...so that's where we are up to! Will update as things progress. Input and suggestions gratefully received! Discuss -
    1 point
  12. I've got nothing that I'd happily smash around the track . All my other cars are allergic to gravel roads...apart from the work ute.
    1 point
  13. IM not sure why this is a big deal? coolants these days are pretty damn good for all applications. running 75% is silly, water is a far better conductor of heat. the 50-50 distilled water is fine. Choose your brand . and be done with it
    1 point
  14. That skull would be an ideal night light put it on a motion sensor next to your kids bed.
    1 point
  15. I have a tow spec cam in the shed, cam run with stock rocker gear etc. Was torqy as, i have a bigger stick in it now so could do a deal on it if you decide to go that way. Also have a manual pedalbox, clutch cable and bellhousing in there, possibly flywheel too. Stole the ringgear for my billet flywheel though. Need to do a build thread on that car one day...
    1 point
  16. Thought I would put up a build of my Ariel, have been lurking on here for a while and have really enjoyed reading the builds posted, both cars and bikes. I've always been interested in motor bikes and had a few in my earlier years, mostly Yamahas, and had always wanted an older bike. Many moons ago where I worked in Ch-Ch there were quite a few guys in the VCC. A couple of them went to Wellington and bought up a heap of bikes from an estate (Brook or Brock Motorcycles?) One guy got a bunch of AJS/Matchless stuff, and the other guy a bunch of Ariels. I had a look through the Ariels and chose a bit of stuff that would be the grounding of a 1937 Ariel Red Hunter. Engine was 1937 and not too bad, frame is about 1946 from memory. Pretty much enough for a complete bike plus extras, but everything needing work. Back then I got a few bits done, girders straightened, oil pump over hauled and most importantly got the engine done. Had it re-bored to suit a wiseco piston from a 350 Chev and new chev valves to suit. Didn't get much more done due to moving towns, young family, seperating from wife etc. etc. Usual shit. So recently life has settled down a bit and I have come into possession of another Ariel. This is a pretty much complete, bit rough, ex farm/hoons bike that has been hidden in the back of a shed for at least 40 years. It's a 1939 500cc Red Hunter. Frame and engine numbers show it as a 1939. It had been used on a farm for a bit here in Ashburton and thrashed, blown up, piston shattered! Then sold, engine removed and stripped, stashed in the back of a shed until a few weeks ago when I got it. Most parts from 1937 & 1939 are all the same. Will post a couple of pictures of the 1939 bike as I got it, 1937 is in bits and all over the place in my workshop.
    1 point
  17. Thanks for letting me know, will repost pictures later.
    1 point
  18. Looks like you've linked to Google images in the first post, you can't hyperlink to Google, you can see them but pretty much everyone can't.
    1 point
  19. Haha classic. Cheers for the comment bud. the diff hat upgrade sounds like a goer!! Cheers for that. Keen as to make tweaks like that for better handling. regarding the 4.1, I plan to get it going as it is now (for starters). the v8 can come down the line
    1 point
  20. I like to use old seatbelts for engine lifting. Fixed ones are better as they have bolt eyes at each end. Haven't broken one yet.
    1 point
  21. You will be fine, those markings are there because they won't have any certification. so can't be used commercially. its mostly an arse covering exercise.
    1 point
  22. Thread dredge….. aside from scraping more under seal there’s not too much I can do to the body for now, so I’ve been working on the Ford 8.8 I pulled out of an explorer. everything looks good inside, so that’s a plus I wrapped it up to limit the stink, Because there isn’t much that stinks worse than diff oil haha I drilled out the 3 bungs that hold the long axle tube in and took the diff housing to work, with a bit of persuasion from the 10t portapower and the gas plant I pressed the axle tube out, tomorrow I’m going to work at our Drury branch where the engineering department is so I’ll use the drop saw to knock 3” off the axle tube, and then work out how I’ll press it back in so i can weld it up, then I’ll be one short axle and spring seats away from a shortened super strong rear. feel free to discuss here
    1 point
  23. Well, I’d call this side done until repair panels arrive for the wheel tubs and boot drop-downs. Obviously the rear quarter to go on as well but that will be the last step. More critter lodgings and some of my seat stuffing jammed behind this sill bracket! Doesn't look like much but this piece soaked up a lot of time. It’s 1.2mm thick so it really sucked to manipulate. The wheel-arch end also has a 90deg folded flange on each face to mate to the wheel tub. In the end I was a couple of mm out in the bottom flanged edge and knew it would never straighten and re-fold so had to cut it off and weld it back on. looking back it was more trouble than it was worth to keep that transition piece between the repairs but I just needed it to be the same shape so the quarter fits again and it was too hard with that thick steel. And I can’t really rip the quarter off to check cause the cunt will fold in half I didn’t replicate all the holes in the panel, these cars are FULL of useless holes that let the water right on in.. probably for lining up/jigging while assembling the car but asking for trouble now. im gonna get a blanking grommet assortment when it’s done and plug up all the friggin holes in the chassis rails and such. Drowned in cavity wax and plugged up it should have a fighting chance at surviving another 50 years
    1 point
  24. Far should probably update this aye...having a child kinda holds things up lol Couply photos of cleaning the cluster and final install of the dash Running a Nardi deep corn now but dont have any photos heres a video of the cornering lights working in correct function another shot found from the drift day made a few changes since also, painted the bumper correctly to the car, sent my a3a's to pine and have been widened to 8J which im suuuper stoaked with how they look now drove the car almost every weekend where i could, took her to a few car meets etc but the ol bluetop wasnt cutting it ive had this thing stuck with me for about 7 years now, what better time to use it than now! wanted to strip it apart again to make sure all checks out and change the crank back to standard as ive now learnt that knife edged factory cranks arent probably the way to go. Mated it up to the j160 i also have waiting, had to grind down the bell housing in a few spots and 'massage' the tunnel a little which turned out mint along with the shorter cusco engine mounts heres something that might be of interest, heres a comparison between (left to right) a buggered factory mount, new TRD & new Cusco - trd and factory should be the same height lol Engine and gearbox sitting happily on its own! decided to make my own vacuum block off plate with alloy from bunnings next job was to remove the fuel tank, so stoaked to find no rust inside the tank and barely any around the under body "Pockets are mint!" that should cover for this year...haha fingers crossed i can get this ol thing fired up in a months time. have all the parts basically to finish the job, sending driveshaft to engineers tomorrow to get shortened and i might seal the inside of the fuel tank with the kit from por15?
    1 point
  25. Whilst this was going on, missus and I finally decided on a colour to add to the oil (blackball), so she started the back of the house.. Had a bit of a second thought when she stained the uprights that are mac thinking we should have left them natural for a bit of contrast.. To late now tho, in saying that, they go darker than the pine boxing so maybe it won't be so bad..
    1 point
  26. Quick tidy up and etch prime. That's me done for tonight. Hopefully this is the last welding I'll be doing on the shell.
    1 point
  27. Just returned from ~9hr daytrip with @HighLUX (although google maps said 10.5) to check out slightly unknown section of new route. Will have a new thread in the next couple days hopefully.
    1 point
  28. Then the blue vespa got the same treatment. This too had ample meat on the pads, but the entire front end shuddered under braking. This made a world of difference. Shudder is gone now, smooth as. I did an aggressive chamfer on the edges of the pads, I'm not sure if this makes a difference, but the old pads had squared edges and so did the replacements. The chamfer makes sense to me, so I put it on just cause.
    1 point
  29. Still done pretty much nothing at all with bikes since coming off the A50, but running about on the Mrs Let's 2 picking up parts for my van recently has semi reignited the spark for 2 wheel life, also this has happened 1983 Honda Stream, the original Honda 3 wheel scooter that the Gyro grew from! And yeah this too 197? Yamaha Chappy with Honda CF50 forks and a lot of patina, should be a good match with my CF50 "Chandler" Also on the hunt for a Suzuki JR80 engine, for reasons...
    1 point
  30. Laced up the front rim but haven’t tightened the nippels, I got a cople extra spokes and because they are aliexpress shit I did some testing on them to see how strong they are and they seem tougher than the old spokes, sparks fly off them when I hit them with an axe.
    1 point
  31. I liked it better standard height.. Sorry, please delete this post if it offends. I'm obviously too old these days.
    1 point
  32. Suspension partially done, 2" drop spindles, 3" lower springs in the front , and diff put on top of the springs in the back. I drew up a notch and got that laser cut, that's ready to pick up this week so next job is to whip the tray off and glue the notch in and make some shock mounts One of the front shocks fell apart when I took it out , that explains the rattle in the front suspension I'm not sure if the wheels will stay, one has started rusting already and its probably going to rub once the front bumpstops get a trim and the rear has some travel. So I'll probably put the stock wheels back on And waiting for some new front shocks I ordered a couple of weeks ago but I think covid has slowed that down
    1 point
  33. As much as this equipment piques my interest.. Did anything become of the oldschool ferrymead train inspection?
    1 point
  34. I think I've found the destination for the next OS Tram adventure.......Ferrymead has several working examples of telephone exchanges dating from the 1920's. Lots of clanking spinning bits while you can prank call each other on rotary phones.
    1 point
  35. He must be pretty bloody cross eyed if they do
    1 point
  36. Yay , got the brakes done , the other side was actually easier after a couple beers, found the lack of brakes for the rear, one cylinder let go so thats cool. anyhow started bleeding it... spew. And the new stuff And a couple pics of the interior Chur
    1 point
  37. Shorted the end of the crank and put the cover on
    1 point
  38. Is that David Bain? ^^^ Just read all this over again. You gotta get that thing going again man.
    1 point
  39. Cheers boss!!!!!! I want to start piecing together a nice 351C soon I just bought some chrome 'skull caps" for the 12 slots and I actually can't wait to slam it.....when I get some space at home to actually have the car in the same city haha. It's currently in Hamilton tucked away This is the look/stance I'm looking to achieve. The side mouldings, louvres and S Pac lower lip really make them look killer IMHO. I'm super lucky to have sourced a XE Ghia Fairmont bonnet and headlights too - you can see in the attached pics the headlight width.
    1 point
  40. I was even contemplating pistons for weird rotary hoes and eastern European chainsaws thanks to some of @ESKIN8R's scouring of Meteor Piston catalogs haha It still bugged me that my original piston that is meant to be a +1.50 from an old TS75 doesn't match up to what's listed for TS/TM/RV75 or A80 models which are all meant to have pretty much the same piston. So I pulled my top end off yet again, quadruple checked the measurements and spent the couple of hours reading piston catalogs again, and well it's paid off as I have found only one piston from TKRJ that matches almost every measurement!!* I give you the piston from a Yamaha YG-80! Even better news is that I seem to be able to order them in both 1.75 and 2.00 oversize. Another couple giveaways are that all the TKRJ pistons for Suzuki have notches for getting the pin clips in/out, none of the Yamaha ones do and also the ring locator pins are around the 4 and 8 positions, Yamaha are at about 2 and 10. *The only measurement that doesn't match up is the overall length, mine is 2.2mm shorter and has some kinda obvious file marks where it has had clearance added to clear the crank webs at BDC ha
    1 point
  41. Not alot has happened of late for old dusty @horndog came round and helped pull the motor/gearbox for his latest ms55 project. turned out to be an easy job, removed about 12 heavily rusted bolts and the front end comes off , motor and box slipped straight out i just now need a 1kz and auto column box to chuck in the wagon .which il do restomod work too so it looks some what factory
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Auckland/GMT+13:00
×
×
  • Create New...