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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/10/21 in all areas

  1. Got some new axles made by Gearcutting Services and she's all go.
    18 points
  2. I got a engine crane for my birthday, so i yoinked the spare engine from the boot out and ripped into it. Its a 115.000c engine which was probably from a Fiat 1500 sedan or Crusader based on a Solex carb it has. This would have been the factory engine in my 125P Ute and is also the 2300 engine less two cylinders, so shares a lot of parts and design It only had three spark plugs, no air filter and no oil cap, with grass seed and mouse nests everywhere, and appears to be seized. Perfect. Remaining park plugs out look not bad, not too bad at all, not bad. Hmmm. Valve cover off, well, would you look at that. Bit of crud under the open oil cap, but otherwise clean I guess? Centrifugal oil filter says, well maybe you shouldnt get too excited, just yet... At this point the effort of getting the crank nut loosened the engine shifted. Some more oil down the cylinders and it moved nearly 360 both ways. Couple of the valves were sticking so Head off, Mouses grass seed and fluff so tightly packed in on the inlet valves it was actually stopping the valve from closing again. Ill chuck it in the vinegar for a bit it should clean up i reckon, no damage, just grub Guess which cylinder had a and a mouse living in the spark plug hole! However thats a pretty new head gasket, can still see the writing A bit more brake clean and the pistons look shiny! Bores are a bit surface rusty in a few spots as expected but no scoring, i reckon a hone might be all it needs. This is after some worn out wet and dry and wd40 for about 20 seconds on the worst bit Need some M12 x 1.5 bolts to put it on my engine stand, then ill remove the pan.
    17 points
  3. I Zebra'd a new engine mount and also put the factory exhaust manifold back on, as the other one was leaking horrifically from everywhere. Then did a bunch of other things and got it fired up! Pretty chuffed with that, it's a nice feeling to not have it all blow up immediately. I reckon it's gonna be pretty rowdy with these cams haha. I then mucked around for ages and bodged together water and heater lines, filled it up with coolant, then.... fucked up. Despite my previous efforts I managed to wire the waterpump backwards and I think I let the smoke out. I fixed the wiring but now it doesnt work. Will be lame if I have to buy a new one, as they cost as much as this bloody engine did haha. Depending on the motor type I might just be able to bodge this one to bypass the variable speed and just run it full speed full time. Dunno. Aside from this. I really need to pull the wiring loom apart a bit, because currently the alternator wiring is baked into the loom up top, but it needs to move down lower. Also because the block is taller, my trumpets hit the bonnet now. So will need to make some new ones. However will all 3 of the polyurethane mounts in, it's now super rigidly mounted. So I can hopefully push it close to the available space without issues. But it was awesome to get it fired up anyway. I'm still a few tasks away from being able to drive it, if the water pump isnt fixable it'll be next month that I can buy a replacement.
    15 points
  4. Made a bit of box into something else Its a bumper mount, the front bumper had been removed by a PO and one side was missing some bits. That means i could put the bumper on and finish routing the the wiring from the dash to the engine So i could put the dash back in, and ran a bit of juice though the circuits. IT LIVES! Indicators, dash lights, fan, and wipers all working. TStill some electrical work to do - on the engine side (after i drop it out) need a new column switch so the headlights can works (Ebay, ordered), and to install the new headlight bulbs (stuff in stock). Brake lights use a pressure switch so cant test those yet. So I put the front back together Look at that little face
    14 points
  5. They've begun their trip north now. I think they are in Hokitika tonight. My dad said it hasn't lost a drop of engine oil so far. I call BS. He reckons someone wanted to buy it from him in Wanaka but died when he stated his asking price
    11 points
  6. Got the car back together just in time for CJC Gripfest at Manfeild. I mounted a passenger's seat and took a few people for rides including @Mitch.W and @Snoozin. It's the first casual trackday this car's done since Nats 2013, so was nice to get out there and have fun cutting laps. There were a few cool cars to play with! Scott embarrassed me by passing me in his EP71 Starlet (looks like a regular old EP, but is B18C powered). The front bumper is still a work in progress, but I'm happy with the over all look. Thanks to Emma for the photos and videos .
    11 points
  7. Took some more shots since it was out of the shed. She’s now at the blasters. Cancery upskirt
    9 points
  8. Brake bits out of the vinegar bath after a few days and then a quick water blast. Magic! Before and after, everything just washes off like its dirt. Gotta catch the flash rust tho, i spray them with degreaser (alkaline) to neutralize the vinegar (acid) then wash them again, then a bit of rust converter or evaporust before paint.
    8 points
  9. This week turned in to week after next week so dropping to blaster tomorrow! kinda been in limbo so not much progress (vinegar soaked and painted some clips + bolts) but today I said fuck it and knocked out the first 2 of MANY patches to come. firewall passengers footwell ..and figured since the blaster is passing over, I’d expose these bulges around the shock towers so it’s nice and clean behind. also blasted the crusty bits on the front valence and made a few holes. I just zapped these up and rust killed.
    8 points
  10. Got the fuel tank back. First pic is before it went to the radiator shop. Had the remainder of an existing liner in there, so he had to split it and sandblast to get the new liner to stick. He also knocked out the worst of the old dents, so I am happy with the outcome. Stuck some brunox on there and have got into epoxy. Found some denting on the sills which is a bit annoying. Guessing it has fallen off a jack at some stage, unfortunately it's got similar damage on both sides. Not sure what I will do here yet, I think it is within the VIRM spec so I might see if I can just get signoff for it, then bog it up later on.
    7 points
  11. Another quick update, got some welding done on the manifold and did my best to smooth out the ports etc. I am sure the design is far from optimum but I think it will work. I made some more bits to box it in. Now more welding....
    5 points
  12. Installed some Oxford heated grips- the grips and controller/wiring is all quite nice but the included tube of superglue is a complete waste of time as both grips came loose before I'd left the drive. These are not like regular grips and have a hard plastic inner sleeve which does not shrink against the bars like usual. I pulled the grips off again, roughed up the bars and plastic sleeve, then glued in place with a thick smear of liquid nails. Completely the wrong application for that glue but it seems to stick like shit to anything and everything, and the grips sure don't feel like they are ever going to move now. Let's hope the glue doesn't soften with heat.. Lol. The controller has some voltage sensing thing too. Its connected direct to the battery but will not operate unless the motor is running. Guessing they need a minimum of 13v or something to turn on. This is a great feature because I'd say they could drain a battery pretty quick if the motor wasn't going. Check out the huge factory bar end weights which screw into the solid aluminium bars. They entire handlebar plate thing is also rubber isolated-lots of consideration given to comfort and one of the many reasons they are a bit tubby.
    4 points
  13. After allowing a few days for this to dry a few coats of Sebring Red ( which is actually orange ) body colour were added. Happy days !
    4 points
  14. Then i assembled it all together in the dash, although the speedo needs rebuilding everything else can stay. Now onto the centre console....
    4 points
  15. I'd be wary of giving someone over the internet advice on tampering with their airbag system. That said, let's see what you've got, maybe a picture of the connectors concerned aswell.
    3 points
  16. Next step was to mask off the underside and apply a few coats of stone chip to the floors as they tend to get a pretty hard time.
    3 points
  17. Somewhere on the dash there will be a button or dial with a label "Vol+" if you increase this setting the problem should go away, if its still there then increase the setting a touch more. Hope this helps
    3 points
  18. Got my cast off 1.5 weeks ago and have had bike out for half an hour since then. Have been pretty cautious as after 12 weeks restrained there was very poor muscle control and it felt super super fragile, but grip strength is improving very rapidly. We know this, but god damn shits amazing. In general I don't speed, but like acceleration and the sense of unlimited power- and this thing delivers for sure. Also very easy to see why these end up with huge kms on them compared to most 600-100cc superbikes-so easy to live with and manage. Big trip coming up and so of course i had to make the acquisition of a luggage rack far harder than usual. I had time on my hands and like a challenge, plus thought I could make something a little more aesthetically Drew outline in cad and printed/test fit then made alterations. Had a good friend cut from alloy. Ended up being done from much thicker aluminium than originally planned but this gave me the confidence to get a bit artistic with the design and weight removal. Then got a tiney router bit with tiny 4mm guide bearing and ran it over both sides to cut a sweet chamfer. Its had a fair bit of finish sanding/filing since these pics to remove hard edges, but now want to DIY anodise it dark grey/black. Its turned out pretty good so far I think. Swaps between aero hump/passenger seat/rack in a few seconds just with a key (all other racks use bolts, but they do allow a pillion where as mine doesn't, and they are also big square things with no real thought given to design) Also started it last weekend and had a really loud and alarming clutch rattle. Shut it off pretty quickly, opened up the clutch and ended up loctiting and torqueing all of the fasteners (this particular year omited factory loctite and loose bolts there is a problem) Sounds gone now but research tells me that these things are renowned for having rattles there due to their variable clutch torque limiting shit being pretty sloppy. Anyway, until next time Bye.
    3 points
  19. After smoko I slapped it in for a test run. The photo below shows things under full throttle. Much better. Will give the pie cut a quick tickle with my glue gun before I slap on a few coats of Hammerite. Thanks for looking.
    3 points
  20. Filing cabinet for a guy at works camper trailer. 2 drawer spun on its side and shortened top drawer. Small drawer for cutlery big drawer for bowls etc and chopping boards down the side. Pretty time consuming but looks sharp. Am making extended cabinet on right hand side for more storage and flush mount for gas cooker.
    3 points
  21. For my folks it's their only vehicle with proper back seats (their other car is an 86 they've had from new). They also have better sound deadening etc. than the courier style van.
    2 points
  22. Right front wheel arch rust removal. Four spots. Will weld plates in this week.
    2 points
  23. They made it to Te Anau yesterday. No problems yet. Apparently people like it but are still calling them foolish for even trying
    2 points
  24. Here is a pic of one of it's last events before i parked it up .
    2 points
  25. Ideally we’ll be blasting the underside and enginebay next week! stripped the heater A/C and junk out because it will never be more accessible/ save some weight baring down on my stupid little wheels and I can clean the mouse shit off. Some time in the past the furry sound deadener has got moist and that’s why there’s crusty bits on the firewall. I had to remove it or it would catch fire anyway. Back out with the face mask and wire wheeled this big kahuna after whipping off the fuzzy shit. Quick black-zinc to seal and savour. That shite I mentioned a few weeks back that I was blowing out of the plenum, there was more in the ducts. Glad that didn’t fire out first time I used the heater! LOL at the gasket never being square since assembly. Classic industries hadn’t provided an invoice or MAF declaration, just an address.. so the crate was just chilling at the depot in California. Took the mrs a couple of weeks to get that squared away.
    2 points
  26. Finished removing the underseal. What a shit job, lying under the car scraping with a chisel. Only a bit of surface rust, cleaned up no worries with a strip disc and wire brush. Gave it a coat of Brunox, scuffed up with scotchbrite and brush painted with epoxy primer. Not mint, but good enough for the underside. Just need to move the stands and do the same for the jacking points now. Getting the fuel tank dipped and lined, rear brake cylinders sleeved at the moment. Next, I will tidy up and paint the diff and fuel tank.
    2 points
  27. Got the boot floor repair patch sorted, made a wooden template and hammered the side to suit. Cleaned off as much rust as I could in the boot strengthening crossmember, treated with Brunox. I will paint the areas I can with some epoxy primer, will get some cavity wax down to the areas I can't before I weld the floor path in. Started making a patch for the boot edge. Started off with my high quality sheet metal brake Clamped and welded to some SHS, hammered to get the right profile Fairly happy with the end result, will still need some minor shaping before I weld it in
    2 points
  28. Tbh he's putting everyone on this forum to shame. We should all be doing this sort of trip more often
    1 point
  29. Hi did anyone have any luck with solution? The airbag warning dominates the drivers screen when you remove seat. i put a wooden floor in van and dont always want to have seat fitted. i have a wiring schematic from toyota but not sure how to read it correctly to enable me to make a blank and insert airbag simulators. has anyone else be had any sucess or be able to look at Toyota supplied document to work it out ?I can attach if anyone interested
    1 point
  30. A few minutes with the strip disc and flap wheel turned this... Into this: Amusingly that's not even the side that was leaking. This one is. You can see the peeled off 'patch' and the offending hole that let all of the river go for a spin through the bilge pump. Today's mission is to head down to the metal recyclers and obtain some replacement metal to hot glue in there.
    1 point
  31. Well it's been 2 months of ignoring this thing in the shed and what do you know....it still isn't fixed. 3 trips as passenger in other people's boats has motivated me a little tho. So it's time to flip the hull. I pushed it off the trailer and naively thought I could just roll it over using muscle power with the misses holding my hernia in. Turns out steel is heavy. That's no way my shed could support a chainfall so I got out the trolley jack and a series of wooden props.
    1 point
  32. so... the painter told me he had a bit of an incident with my car. . . . . . . . . then he said he spilt a few litres of paint on it. . . . . super duper pleased with the result. .
    1 point
  33. I decided duct tape wasn't good enough, so fixed the corners with aluminium straps and rivets. It's turned out nice and strong. I used foil tape to seal the edges and duct taped it to the bumper. The results were good. It stays at 90° or less out on track. I'm aiming for 82° and it looks like I'm on target once the exit duct is in place. Got out to Manfeild for the final round of the Mitre10 Mega Summer Series and had a decent day. We had a pretty slim turnout in our class, but still managed to have some great racing. I made a mistake in the final race on the last corner and had contact with Jamie in the LS86. This swiped my front bumper off and damaged the LF guard pretty badly. Still finished the race and managed to bring the class and over all series wins home for the GT Cup. Here's the sequence showing my whoopsie: Now I've got to finish the front bumper project that I started years ago... I'll buy some fibreglass supplies and get this done before Gripfest on May 8th. I'd like to pick up a LF Trueno guard if anyone knows of one. Steel is preferred over fibreglass, but I'll take what I can get.
    1 point
  34. Sorry all my photos are rushed and shit looking. I’m going to try take more care and make them better No before shots cause we’ve all seen used transmissions but I got lots of crud off the box without going too spaz and using all my products up. inside was nice, filter and gasket was new but I’ll replace. Gutted the mrs didn’t have any in stock today..I was keen to have this job done and stashed away in the corner again this weekend. replaced shifter seal which I dare say was a big factor in leaky ness. fought this fucking ass output seal for ages, just didn’t want to square up and stay in! Trans mount cleaned up and now zinc’d.
    1 point
  35. LPG? So keen to see petrol vs lpg. 16V vs 20V. More vacuum cleaner oil separator
    1 point
  36. I’ve been crook again so wasted a huge portion of the first long weekend I wasn’t working. achieved wee bits before crawling back inside. the bumpers all painted and assembled again. and I got the fucking rear screen out intact!! I held my breath for way longer than is healthy. the rear ‘deck lid’ is a A+ rust trap for B-body’s (I’d dare say most American cars of the era) so I knew it was fucked up but I’m happy to see it’s not totally missing under the glass! Shoulda added one to the cart when I ordered panels but I’m a fucking Scrooge. The rest of the frame is dope, stoked! ive got some trans seals at work and cleaning that slug up and patching the leaks is close to next on the list. Got a dipstick oring, rear seal and selector seal. The input one is already brand new which is cool. The inside of bellhousing is dry so it’s not the source of the deluge
    1 point
  37. Turbo it pussy https://store.schnitzracing.com/suzuki/hayabusa/turbo or a big cam doesnt need cert gotta put a huge extended swing arm on it like americans seem to love even on stock bikes tho any of these mods will get you max street cred btw
    1 point
  38. Once iv had a bit (a lot) of seat time I'd really like to become a regular at the drag strip. Not interested in racing others times, just myself. But that's a long way in the future. These things also have some great tuning software available.. I'd love to play with that too in the future. Pretty much just want the bike to run and do the fun things that I was never able to finish the hz or beetle to do- and those projects have relaxed significantly as a result. Sold most of my LS stuff and really just want steel wheels and a diesel in the ute, and something vw and slow in the beetle.
    1 point
  39. More kinda lame updates: After the rust converter cured I hit the bumper with hammerite silver, sealed the deal. Put the lenses through the dishwasher and gave them a polish. The rear side markers are half-fucked with an odd hazy crazing you’d find on the bottom of an old lady’s feet.. I gave them a wee tong up, hopefully passes the test. Can buy new for not bad coin. Polished the chrome (pot-metal craters, we all know how well that shit lasts), painted some housings, rust killed the screws, cleaning as I went. ^unmasked areas went satin black soon after.
    1 point
  40. Small lock down update. Things are still happening, have just had a few issues that have taken a while to get resolved. Suspension is all in, brakes are done. Hard to get an idea of actual front height as I didn't take pic with front guard on. But it's currently sitting at it's highest setting up front and about the middle height in the rear. I aim to go as low as I can, but guard clearance and bumpsteer will likely determine final height. Recently replaced old exhaust system. Not running a resonator for now, will see how it sounds as I can easily add one later if needed. Got the impression the muffler is a good one and should cover both jobs. Had a section bent up, with some changes to try and clear everything. Some of the bends ended up being poorly done so I just cut the whole lot up and rebuilt it. It was just too hard to bend it as required to go over the diff at an angle, then bend back to get to muffler location. So I spent a fair few hours tweaking the bends to get it right. Currently prepping more areas for epoxy, and discovering more things to fix, so fixing those as I go. Aiming to get the front end finished, then i'll move to the rear and finish that off. I don't have the space to work on it all at once. Replacing a few bits and bobs as I go too as many parts are rusted beyond use. Like the bracket shown below that took a hit and is too rusty to bother straightening. Have done cambelt, waterpump, thermostat, radiator hoses, all other belts, plugs, air filter, all of which was sourced from RockAuto. Small bypass pipe was sourced from Toyota (thanks Mark) and I used the orings that came with waterpump. Radiator was flushed and repaired a while back, and is likely to be replaced at some point, it's sound, just not able to be rodded out as it will probably do damage. Not much else to post really, slowly getting there, hoping to have everything painted and back together in a few weeks. But given how long it's taken so far, even with being locked down that isn't that likely. Some proof of progress: Old exhaust + new exhaust bits Exhaust finished up: Exhaust bracket I made as not many factory hangers could be used: All new belts installed along with waterpump etc Some brackets I dunked in MetalReady for a while, along with a spring that was solid rust Replacement bracket I knocked up as old one was beyond repair As car currently sits, will play with heights when I have final wheels installed. Discussion Fred.
    1 point
  41. OH WOULD YOU JUST STOP IT!! Stokedness is on MAXIMUM.
    1 point
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