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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/07/21 in all areas

  1. so... the painter told me he had a bit of an incident with my car. . . . . . . . . then he said he spilt a few litres of paint on it. . . . . super duper pleased with the result. .
    10 points
  2. Cool. The booster has a ‘silencer’ or ‘filter’ that is foam around input rod. Chances are when the new pads were put in or the brakes bled and the pedal was pushed all the way down the foam has fallen apart. If the brakes are working as they should,then the booster is sad. If you get a hard pedal or poor stopping performance, the booster is dead. Either way, I would recommend replacing the booster.
    7 points
  3. So here’s my big on selecting an agent, and a bit on our strategy for selling this thing. First disclosure, I don’t have a background in RE but my day job is in corporate sales and know a fair bit about the area (various programs, training ppl etc). Also, salespeople are people too mmmmkay. Knowing what I know, I’m able to engineer the following process to the outcome I want. Quick tip, sales is 100% built on information, be transparent with information and sharp with questioning and you can have them eating out of your hand (or visa versa…) I don’t really know any agents personally, so I decided to go to a few open homes ran by local agents who look to be successful. Posing as a buyer I was able to get a bit of an understanding on how they operate from the other side. Honestly a lot acted as professional clip board monitors, because the market is so hot right now, they’re sitting back and waiting for the deals to come to them – we want someone proactive but not pushy. It was a pretty easy shortlist (3) to make, the ones that bothered to call me back and ask some questions….. I asked these ones to come to a visit of our place, and provide an appraisal on potential value and marketing strategy, at this point I’m letting them to try and ‘sell’ to me All agents will give a market appraisal where they show comparable sales in the area and how they see that reflected in your property, they aren’t doing a favour here, they have to do that… Be wary of agents who will look to ‘buy the listing’ by appraising your place super high as an attempt to wow you with greed. At this stage I noticed already differences in offering, Agent #1 was very bubbly and talking a lot about how strong the market was, how well it would sell and how good they were at negotiating. Agent #2 was more casual, walking through the different ways in which we could look to sell and asking questions about what’s important to us. For me, this meeting had nothing to do with getting an appraisal (just say “yes, ok, that’s great” a lot), it was a case of gathering information about who they were, what drivers they looked to use so I could use that again in the next discussion. I left each of these meetings outlining that I would be calling them on when we would speak next, but being clear that I would speak to them before making a decision. (if you are clear on YOUR actions and YOUR timeframe, you wont have them badgering you with calls). Next meeting I’m flipping the script, I’m the one in control and asking all of the questions, the reasoning being that previously the agents are excited about the opportunity and this puts them on edge and more easily persuaded. I’ve defined that the strategy will be to do a quiet listing on the house before it is finished – purpose to capture buyers now and when they might be thinking in a few months, also to do so during winter when new build listings (competition) are low. If we don’t get an offer of something we like then we can pause to finish it complete and try again…. In any RE deal you’ve got 3 levers to pull in the negotiation – price, timing, and conditions. In our situation, the second two are easy for us to be flexible in order to achieve the best possible $$$. So here, I’m very much in control of the convo and the agent is the one saying yes to me, with their ability to manage the buying process being the key feature. It then gets onto commissions…. They both start that the standard rates are 4.5/2.5% but for me selling 2 houses they will get me a ‘deal’…. During this step, it is key to shut up, have long pauses before answering and show zero emotion (Chris Voss styles). Agent #1 did start with “what do you think a fair rate”? after which there was some fumbling to do some quick math that their offer was 2%, but that I should indicate what I thought was appropriate. For all the banter about being trained negotiators it didn’t take long for them to drop their rates with little encouragement. Agent #2 was a bit cooler about the whole thing, straight up a fixed cash price for a sale followed with some questions on if there was anything presented up until that point that we were unhappy with or needed more questions answered. I have picked Agent #2, namely because he listened to understand what was important to us, what we feel the strategy should be and what expectations should be. I have also said to him that I’d like to add to his commission, whereby as well as the fixed rate, if he gets over a certain $X then will receive an additional % - key is to align the incentive schemes of you and your agent…. Agent #1 by accounts is good at what they do, they were top in sales in their office and has lots of listings. I feel that is due to be a hard hustler rather than an active negotiator, so the skills fit really wasn’t there. Lots more I could go into the theories behind this process, but it’ll end up getting into sales101…
    5 points
  4. They make one of those on an episode of Paw patrol for cooking Chilli. I must have seen that episode 3 or 4 times so far. #dadlife /lingpost
    4 points
  5. was thinking about temp sensor for the ecu and where to put it.. couldn't put iy in the factory position as the factory sensor was there for dash temp gauge.. thought about the hole in the head between #3 and #4 inlet port but there is no way with the linkages for the inlet manifold... so then i thought about the frost plug at the rea of the head...there is about 30mm from the rear of the head and the fire wall and when i popped the plug out and measured the depth i had ..that was 60mm from head surface to 34 cylinder wall...........and the temp sensor itself is 60mm long. soooo i garbed a new front plug....gutted it and got some thick pipe and cut that to size and then a washer.....welded it all up and fucking back.......sorted.. andits about 10mm of the cylinder wall. and as paranoid as i am with it leaking and being in a spot that the motor will have to come out if it does....i plasty dipped it twice. tapped it into place and it should be fine. also trimmed the adapter plate for factory temp sensor. .port matched it to the inlet manifold.. port matched the head to the adapter plate (will do for now ...this motor is to only get it all running..i don't have hope for it lasting long)..gave to surfaces some belt sander love ..some lock tight on the socket head screw.....a gasket and some extra sealant and bolted it on the last time .....(well till she epode's ) cheers
    3 points
  6. Not trying to spam this up too much, but in my opinion real estate agents are not working for the seller either. They're working to maximise turnover. In a house worth 600k, 2%= $12k, to get $50k more of a sales price will require a whole lot more hustle for the agent to earn just $1k. A mates way of dealing with this was to offer 10% commission on $ over X, that's a real incentive to maximise what they're getting for you. We sold our house ourselves, was really easy, made a sign, listed on trademe, had an open home, took names and numbers at the open home, rang the people who attended that night and asked if they were interested in making an offer. Sold in a week. The best part was knowing exactly how the process was going.
    3 points
  7. I got bored of reading all that about 12 words in and have concluded that it needs to be tossed into the ocean where it belongs
    2 points
  8. Fancy new grips, stuck on with the old spray paint trick. I had to carefully cut the ends out enough for the bash guards to fit. Looks 1990's cool, which is the period correct look im after.
    2 points
  9. Managed to find this car closer to home. Took it for a drive to Riverton at Easter, carb float ended up being a sinker and sending fuel all over the intake manofold, fun times.
    2 points
  10. It's a race car now. Shouldn't be an issue with crumple zones
    2 points
  11. Still chipping away, have had a few jobs that held up other jobs, so progress hasn't been as quick as i'd like. Couldn't put brake master cylinder in till I sorted the clutch and couldn't put fuel tank back in till i'd sorted the brakes... Anyway, a quick run down below. Tried to start it the other week to make sure it still runs, it doesn't. Figured it was probably fuel as it will have been sitting for a while. So I dropped the fuel tank out to find the tube pretty blocked, so that hopefully answers that. Drained the fuel tank, turns out I put quite a bit more fuel in over time than I thought, fill the mower container and any lose containers I had. Took the worst to the dump eco area. Dropped the tank in to Hornby Radiators and they gave it a good clean inside. I grabbed some new hose while that was being done. Got fuel tank back and gave it a quick paint on the top half, only surface rust, but some was a bit pitted so worthwhile doing. Fuel tank. Hoses labelled for future reference, also labelled on car. After getting the insides cleaned. quick tickle up Then a coat of whatever rust paint was lying around. Was blowing a gale, can't beat a brush on product sometimes. Engine fuel supply pipe with some meths in it, sloshed it around a bit and left it overnight. Grabbed some pipe cleaners and it's good as now. Getting a new intank filter thing was too hard basket with my time frame, so I gave it a good clean and chucked it back on. Oh yeah and the new hose: While that was being done I went down to CBC in town and they made me a new clutch cable. The old one had been resting on the exhaust so the cover was pretty toast. No pics because I just wanted it installed. But it was a pretty sweet cable. I had it made 50mm shorter than the one I had, as I couldn't route the one in the car without it hitting exhaust and steering. So with the new cable made I made a bracket to hold it clear of everything. Factory they have a bracket, but it's NLA so I had to just guess it. Asked on a FB group dedicated to these cars but no one could be bothered taking a photo for me of how it's run factory, boo. Anyway, the bracket, which is part of a realtor sign I chopped up. Gave it another tweak with the rivnut tool after this photo and got it compressed a bit more, shes solid as fuck. Bolted to the firewall and installed a P-clip on it to hold the cable. Bolted two clips together to keep the clutch and speedo cable apart and keeps it off the fuel line on firewall from filter. No idea how much of this junk is legit, but none of it's under pressure, it's just done to keep things apart so nothing can rub through. Seems legit enough to me, guess i'll find out soon enough when it gets checked. Just need it together for now and worry about the details later. For those that don't frequent the spam tech thread, I asked about bleeding my new master cylinder and went with this solution. Which when installed worked like this. Didn't leak bugger all when being bled, and I just clamped the pipes with vice grips when done so brake fluid didn't go everywhere. So then I bled the rest of the car, gave up doing it by myself and installed someone in the car to pump for me. It was after I had done this, I realised I had fucked up... I pulled the pads out as I was getting a bit of fluid leaking while trying to bleed the nipples myself (no euphemism). So I thought rather than potentially fuck the pads i'll remove them. I'm sure you can work out the rest... thankfully the pistons are long enough for this rookie mistake to not be an issue. They pushed back in fine with a nipple released. Was going to rebleed the whole system again tomorrow anyway with new fluid. But that is a must now as i'll have air in one side of each caliper. No biggie. Next time I'll have brake pad shaped bits of wood to install. Quake safe on axle stands with enough junk underneath to stop it being able to fall on me. Next up will be work out why the dash sits too high to where the windscreen will struggle to fit on one side. Then book in a windscreen install. Then do my own alignment to the point I can get the brakes bed in a bit. Then book proper alignment. Then not sure... i'll worry about that another day, getting close.
    2 points
  12. Making slow progress on this whenever I can be bothered. The control panel is covered in leather jacket, and we have volts! I bought a kitset of a motorised chain similar to a tank track, and used it to create a motorised curtain. The curtain grinds its way noisily open and closed, which adds to the cheese factor. It's lit by some Christmas lights: Hopefully the lights in front are sufficient to stop lights behind from being visible through the thin fabric. I discovered that my plasma globe causes my neon bulbs to glow dimly, which is kinda cool. I hope I don't have to ditch the plasma globe because it scrambles electronics in its vicinity. Next up on this project is puzzling out what the rest of the controls should do, and deciding how much effort to put in. I'd quite like a magic eye VU meter.
    2 points
  13. Was a bit hung over on Anzac day appreciation day, So I made a fire thingy out of some junk I had lying around
    2 points
  14. So this didn't last long! haha I got offered a pretty good price so I sold it for profit
    2 points
  15. So a year and abit ago I was looking on trade me and someone was trying to sell a ford Sierra project and after looking and wondering I brought it next step was to get to the north island to get it ,so packed up the family and away we went and I got this!!! Its a Ford Sierra xr4i it has a 2.8V6 cologne engine the person I brought it off was going to make it into an RS replica so I’m going to continue with this theme
    1 point
  16. I made a plate for the other side, to prevent the riders foot from going into the front sprocket. Probably not really an issue, as the way its tucked away, plus the near impossible chance something could squeeze into the gap between the upper/lower chains - but hey as I've always said "Saftey 3rd"... I also set the rear suspension up. Google tells me around 25-30mm of bike sag, plus around 100mm of rider sag is about where I want it. I measured: As it was when I brought it to be 32/120 which did feel a little droopy? 1st adjustment I made got 22/100 sag numbers, which made it corner like it was on rails...but felt too hard for me after riding it for the past month on the Cadillac suspension settings. It felt like it would bouncy me off when landing my epic jumps (***my jumps are less than 1m high). 2nd attempt I split the difference and ended up at 30/110. This still feels a bit hard and bouncy in the rear compared to the ride I'd become accustomed to...but I figured I get used to it. The bike corners, handles and lands pretty well, it doesn't feel as droopy as it once did. So I'm leaving it like this for now. I may re-look at this in the future? But keen to just send it for now.
    1 point
  17. Spam away... You're right, in many cases, the agents work to their incentive scheme rather than maximising the situation for the seller - who said a quick sale is a good sale? potentially leaving $$$ on the table there. With what I do for a living I could look to do this myself, in all honesty its the hassle factor with everything else I have going on in life. With a well trained agent they will do your bidding... I feel the commissions should look like investment funds...... you have a super low base rate, then a large performance fee i.e. achieve x% above the average price/GV for the area... that'll sort the wheat from the chaff.
    1 point
  18. He goes through his whole set up. Good watch to get an idea of the processes. This is the recipe I'm going to use.
    1 point
  19. Finally got the throttle body adapter plate port matched and dropped it on the current motor for visual motivation Started a quick spreadsheet and have rapidly worked out I need ~45 individual wires running through the firewall to operate the motor and the usual electrics (lights, wipers etc) most of these are because I wish to move the fusebox and relays into the cabin. A quick estimate and this looks to be about 55m of cable.... For ease, putting a 50pin connector on the bulkhead looks to be the way forward. Rather than threading each wire, I can wire the loom on the workbench, any suggestions for a bulkhead fitting thats not $200 mil-spec?
    1 point
  20. Thanks fullahs, you're too kind. @a.craw4d Not really a massive technique, I just had a look at what seemed really effective in youtube vids & on various sites, and just tried to copy them. The worn look (or chipping as it's known) is basically to show areas of paint that have been chipped off to the primer or even the metal. The metal will then rust if it's exposed to the elements. If you look at old lathes, presses etc in factories you'll get the idea. Some people seem to do it by actually layering the paint with a "chipping compound" and then physically removing the top layer with various methods. I've just gone for a bit of paint on top aiming for the same effect. Chose a colour that's what you think the primer would be, but that also contrasts with the top coat and the gently go at it with a small brush. Little by little build it up, thinking about what areas would get the most abuse. Edges of panels, damage, foot & hand holds. Fucking great holes from 88 mm shells. If you look at the dozer blade, the top coat is chipped the most, then the primer is exposed but the leading edge is bare metal. Real diggers look like this. The rust is showing under the primer but is worn off in the heavy use areas. The rust and rust streaking is just that, places that would be exposed or vertical surfaces where rusty water would run down. Practice, practice and take it steady... My top tips would be watch a load of youtube. "night shift" is a very skilled and informative bloke. Also get a pack of rust effect acrylics. Vallejo do a set which has many shades and is nice to use. Google "Shigeyuki Mizuno", that man knows rust. His bombed tank factory is amazing. The biggest lol of it all is that there's so much politics about over use of any technique. Armour, and indeed most metal from the 30' & 40's takes ages to rust. It certainly wouldn't be full of rust holes during the war. There's tanks on beaches in France that have got two tides a day since 1944 that aren't that rusty. Chipping looks great but too much just looks like a cartoon. It's all good though, and it should all be done to make the builder happy. There's no reason not to use it on cars though, and it'd probably look more realistic as you could have big rust holes. I'm looking forward to doing a rusty Hako at some point. Anyway, lecture over, thanks for your appreciation.
    1 point
  21. Okay so I managed to find a manual rack car at pick a part. All it cost was 50 swear words, catching hepatitis from crawling over busted glass and about 20 bucks. Not bad. (Also got the rubber boot that goes over it) my manual rack turned up in the post some time today as well so im good to go. Its a big dick punch working on anything in the vicinity of the power steer so im happy to be rid of it. Then ive just been burning the midnight oil taking this gearbox off and on about 20 times to confirm bolt hole stuff and make sure it all goes together nicely. I still need to file one of the holes a little more, then it will be about ready to chuck back in. Hopefully fire up on the weekend or earlier. Im glad the steering situation was easily resolved, because it was becoming disheartening to think getting the motor back in would see significant delays.
    1 point
  22. Yeah with the Carina, even swapping from a height adjustable column to one that isnt, absolutely bloody everything was different haha. It was also weird that my new gearbox had no speedo drive, just a blanking plate for it. But then thankfully it still had the nylon gear inside the box, so just plonked the other speedo drive in. It would have been a right bastard if that nylon inner gear wasnt there haha. It must run the speedo signal from the ABS unit on the NCP13 model. Maybe because with the big block 1500 motor you're doing too many hectic skids all of the time to rely on the front wheel speed as being accurate.
    1 point
  23. Big mission today to get old motor out and get the new motor/box/clutch/etc assembled. I was thinking it would likely be best/easiest to drop the motor out the bottom, like I've done with MR2 in the past. However once the axles are out it's pretty easy to turn the motor 90 deg and pull it straight out the front. Ended up spending about an hour and a half playing Dentist, when the new motor and new box both had the same alignment dowel stuck in them. Took a lot of heat and CRC and filing some flats into it before the bloody thing eventually came loose. Once that was sorted I tried aligning the box onto the motor but it was just too dark and too tired. So will get that sorted tomorrow after work. I CBF with the power steering so I've been keeping an eye out for a manual rack Echo at Pick a Part etc, but havent seen one yet. Then one just popped up on Trademe so bought it. hopefully it isnt missing a UJ or something specific to the manual rack (probably is, and I'm stupid for buying this) "
    1 point
  24. Recently picked up one of those generic 220l freestanding blasting cabinets, so I could set to work blasting/primering/painting the rear suspension/bag mounts etc in several batches. Such a time consuming task but super satisfying seeing once scummy parts come out looking new. Need to replace the window and do an LED light upgrade to the blasting cabinet before I can do anymore (the front suspension bits). Can't see shit in it anymore. Ended up cutting the wheel bearings off the half shalfs so I could paint the drum brake backing plate. Don't have a press so might try the axle in freezer, bearing in oven trick for fitting the new bearings I have before I go door knocking around the neighbourhood trying to find someone with a press I can borrow. Then I can finally get the diff back together in one piece. The whole diff hangs from a rubber bush that sits in the boot floor, I've got a new one of these bushes on its way from Germany as the original is suitably flogged but it seems the replacement one is on the slow boat so who knows when that will get here, but I need it to refit the diff so bit of a stalemate there. Also picked up a 722.6 trans out of an early 2000s W203 that suffered a timing chain failure (like most of them do). these don't bolt up to the M180/M130 family of engines so I need to make up an adapter plate, which is my next job will also need a controller for it but that can wait. I've gone the complicated route of gaining a lock up torque convertor and a 5th gear, but a man wants what a man wants. Until next time.
    1 point
  25. Nothing too wrong with the merc engine, but you've got my attention, what stage cam would you recommend for the drillport?
    1 point
  26. Today I took the bull by the balls and poked a ruddy great hole in the sheet metal under the drivers seat for the additional brake fluid reservoir. Started with a 15 mm pilot hole which is the size of the bolt on my 50 mm chassis punch. The chassis punch made short work of the cab floor and I then poked the 3 smaller mounting holes for the bracket. I cleaned and painted the second hand mounting bracket that I got in from the UK and gave the new reservoir a few coats of satin black to match the existing one. I've ordered 2 meters of 3/8 EPDM fluid reservoir tube which should be more than enough to plumb the dual reservoirs to the brake master cylinder.
    1 point
  27. As detailed in a previous post I'm using the original Thames muffler and rear section with a HiAce flange glued to the front of the muffler that attaches to a slightly tweaked HiAce intermediate pipe. The new setup places the muffler closer to the centre of the van and at the time I suspected that I may need to tweak things to gain maximum clearance between the driveshaft and the exhaust. To put things into perspective the muffler sits on the left hand side and the exhaust tip exits on the right hand side of the van just in front of the rear wheel. So as the pipe runs from left to right it has a hoop which in theory should sit directly above the driveshaft. With both items in place a quick check confirmed that the position of the hoop needed some tweaking. I ended up cutting 120 mm of pipe out in order to centre the hoop, but needed my mate Sno's help with the welding as I'm not setup for stainless. Sno did the deed for me yesterday afternoon and its now all back together. With the bit of pipe removed from the centre, the tail pipe no longer sticks out ridiculously and I even gave the end piece a polish for that extra little bit of bling. I might give the end a bit of an extra trim, but I'll leave that for later. Thanks for reading.
    1 point
  28. Seems safe enough to work with, lol... GHS Classification: H272 May intensify fire; oxidiser. H300 Fatal if swallowed. H310 Fatal in contact with skin. H314 Causes severe skin burns and eye damage. H330 Fatal if inhaled. H334 May cause allergy or asthma symptoms or breathing difficulties if inhaled.
    1 point
  29. Today's task was to fit new rear wheel cylinders. I did a bit of a quick and nasty job of it as I plan to do a full strip down and paint when I replace the rear wheel bearings. I'll leave that till after some road testing as I might need to change the diff ratio at the same time. I've got a few centres with different ratios stashed away including a LSD centre that I'm tempted to fit. Anyway, I've been putting off this brake job for a while as its real fiddly. The original right hand side cylinder was seized and the left one looked a bit crusty. Did a quick de-crud job while I was at it. The shoes have probably got enough meat on them for now, so I'll save the new ones for when I do the full axle rebuild.
    1 point
  30. Managed to get the Thames back on its front wheels for the first time in a few months. Pushed it out of the shed so I could give the floor a good sweep. Looking at the Thames front on the L300 steering angle box hangs lower than the front valance, but it's a small price to pay for the vastly improved steering setup. Even with two leaves removed from the back springs, the van has still got a bit of a nose down stance. Perfect for that 70s look that I am aiming for. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  31. Not a massive update but got the torque wrench onto my cv/axle nuts, they where semi loose so hoping thats resolved my bearing issue at the front. Couldn't get the gearbox to lock in gear (reverse or 2nd) with both front wheels off the ground (open diff) so had to put a wheel on and finish tightening through the center. Not the best way to do it I know but ill see how it drives later. Haven't remade the intercooler pipe but have flared it with some pliers so waiting on my boost leak tester to arrive before the next maiden voyage. Brought another front bumper support so need to swap that over, its not 100% straight so need to tweak it and work out how the top of my intercooler will mount now :s Still keen to get a spare rear bumper Haven't had much motivation lately or time, weather also has been average
    1 point
  32. Went to the wreckers the other day as they had a crashed lancer sedan Wouldn't let me buy seat-belt stalks :s so will need to hit the other wrecker up this Sunday all going well Managed to get Another set of roof trim Another set of guard liners A lower rear windscreen trim piece All the boot carpet and plastic Another stereo surround (in good condition) Another Drivers side vent Factory stereo brackets Factory carpet (need a clean but also good to use as a template for my new carpet) Factory floor mats (need a clean) Rear air-con ducting Cup holder Fuel lines (though the very end was kinked) Boot trim and carpet Spare wheel bolt Another spare footrest in slightly better condition to the one I have Have also ordered a sedan specific front bumper support Still need to Get drivers side Seat belt stalk and install replace intake side 90degree pipe with a stainless one that's got better clamping options Buy and use boost leak tester Tighten front axle nuts to torque spec and see if that removes the wheel bearing play If 2 doesn't work then order and replace front wheel bearings Test drive If test drive goes ok then book in a wheel alignment Sure there will be another list after the next test drive Before RWC Finish and install small exhaust and possibly remake front down pipe Set height at 105mm at lowest point (may need new down pipe to achieve this Finish boot rust repairs and paint boot Under-seal boot underside Finish mounting rear bumper Swap front rad supports Remount inter-cooler Install factory bumper (and if that doesn't fit install evo 3 bumper) Redo radiator top mount so that my rad cooling panel fits (may also use this to help secure bumper?) Factory carpet Factory boot trim Spare wheel? Tidy up wiring Then im sure Ill get a list from the RWC guy
    1 point
  33. So new carpet I ordered arrived, but discovered its the same as the carpet I have except not hacked up to fit. Will go get some factory carpet from a wreck to use a template to cut it properly/put in the bolt holes. Put the interior all back in, did some more rust hole welding (still need to grind it back) eyeballed the camber settings. Started to ask around about getting an alignment done, so gave it a wash, paints still average but it isn't covered in dust anymore. Fixed the power-steering res to pump low pressure top hose leak Thought I would put a no rego permit on it for a shakedown drive to supercheap to get another exhaust gasket and maybe some oil. Got it out of the driveway and went really well until boost came on, I forgot how quick the factory TD04HL spools on these. So boost came on and popped an inter-cooler pipe off, I think I got to house number 49 and im number 37. Of course it was the most dodgy one I had installed so will remake that in stainless and clamp it in better. Might invest in a 2.5" adapter so I can put the compressor on it to check for leaks Manged to get the pipe re-clamped enough to drive it home, under 40km as it wasn't running well. 2nd gear doesn't seem the best so will have to see if it gets better next time I drive it, might have just been me with the puk clutch. Feels like at least one of the brakes is stuck on as its dragging a little as well, so pretty shit drive overall EDIT: jacked it up and turning all wheels in neutral by hand no brakes feel stuck on, front wheel bearings feel pretty sloppy however so hoping I just didnt torque the driveshafts up enough otherwise ill be pulling the front end apart again :s Realized the drivers seat doesn't have a seat-belt stalk
    1 point
  34. So small fuel leak on the driveway this morning, just had to tighten the fuel tank drain screw so hoping thats sorted it Small drip of engine oil so need to find out where that's from, and a small drip of gearbox oil again not sure where its coming from Need to set the Bliss properly this weekend and then decide what I am doing with the front exhaust off the turbo Edit Ordered another 2.5-3" adaptor, getting a quote on 6m of 3" 304SS pipe delivered (should be about 100aud plus the delivery fee) and im going to attempt to remake the front pipe, hoping to reuse the cat but might need to shorten some sections. This may be interesting as there isn't much space
    1 point
  35. New shock insert turned up Swapped everything over No pics of it back in Also thinking I may need to redo the dump pipe as even with the suspension raised up to almost Max height I'm at something like 85mm of ground clearance. But will have a think and come back to it. Checked the timing again, also realised my wiring was correct for the cas but my cas plugs off the old haltech loom that has the sensor wiring around the other way. Warmed her up and the heater runs hot air so think the cooling system is good At this stage. First/reverse work and engine feels healthy, took it out my driveway briefly and turned it around. Did have some clunking/rattling but think it was the bolts I had loose in the boot. Need to tidy some stuff up and then can take it to the wheel alignment and a short drive. Still tempted to put the speeduino in it but it'll wait.
    1 point
  36. New shock insert is meant to arrive today but betting it'll be Monday Bits for the small exhaust arrived so will tackle that next week as I am at a wedding tomorrow Probably need to make sure the cooling system has no air in it but will sort that after ive done a short test drive with the new shock insert install (still annoyed I needed one ) will do this before I put the small exhaust on and make sure it drives ok (will have a no rego permit, and itll just be around the block) then will book in for a wheel alignment next weekend all going well Still waiting on a factory GSR bumper and grill to arrive but ill cable tie the evo 3 fiberglass bumper on for the alignment if I have to The factory lancer wagon exhaust is a tiny 1 5/8" so I have 1m of 1 7/8" to slide over it to step up-to the 1 7/8" to 2" adapter and then a 2" to 3" adapter onto a 3" flange that will bolt onto my font pipe. Hopefully itll be nice and quiet but not overly happy about how much back pressure itll have ha
    1 point
  37. So been promising a video for awhile this is how it sounds now Think ive got the bliss etc set now so warmup is 1000-1200rpm and drops to 800 when warm Still bloody loud, timing is set at 5degrees from memory but I may have set it at 10 can't remember off the top of my head, my dodgy cheap timing light still has issues flashing, my electronic light shows it at the 5 degrees mark at 0 degrees on the display so it might be at 10 degrees No smoke as I haven't overfilled it with oil and the timing is set correctly, also have an ecu I know is for a turbo engine now I actually realized today I have the cam and crank signal wired around the wrong way, so will need to swap them around and re-time the CAS when I have a moment. Right now its drive-able (once I replace the front right coil-over) and not an issue as the timing is correct for the signal its seeing but not ideal long term Cooling system now has no leaks and holds a pretty constant 82-84C degrees (middle of the factory temp gauge) the cooling fan comes on with the thermoswitch at 84C and off at 82C so happy that's working now Waiting on another exhaust adapter (2" to 1 7/8") and a meter of 1 7/8" pipe to arrive so I can finish the modified n/a lancer wagon exhaust and get it quiet for RWC Ill redo the 3" from the front to the back once I go to a larger turbo Current 3" may get a resonator or another muffler etc at some point as a temp option Also have a very small slow oil leak around the oil filter, CAS and possibly the cam cover, I have a new cam cover gasket I need to put on Will keep an eye on them
    1 point
  38. So my 90 degree silicon joiners arrived today so finished redoing the inter-cooler piping on the hot side Shortened this pipe by about 100mm and put a 90 degree on it Not sure if you can see but the 90 goes into a 180 alloy pipe I had cut in half and then has a straight joiner onto a straight that goes into another 90degree silicon joiner into a shortened 45 degree alloy pipe Ive actually wrapped the top pipe in gold reflective tape since this pic, however I am not sure how effective itll be so will get some exhaust wrap for it Looks heaps tidier then the way I had it with the temp piping, leaves space for a full size radiator again if I want to fix the bottom rad mount. Vaccum gauge sits rock solid when idling so don't think I have any vac leaks Lowest point of the car is the dump/down pipe and the exhaust towards the back. Im aiming for 105mm from them so hoping it doesn't look to bad If its terrible after RWC ill tuck everything up more and lower it a little more
    1 point
  39. Saw an RVR pop up at the Kilsyth Pick-apart on Thursday, thought I wonder if it will have bits I want as spares. Drove the hour there for when it opened at 9am and discovered its Auto Diesel 4 stud and rear drum Someones already taken the motor, gearbox and diff (funnily the transfer case was on the ground) Rear axles are smaller then the ones I have so no good Front drivers side axle is smaller and non abs to what I have so no good Considered grabbing the front exhaust but cost wasn't worth it when I would have to mod anyway Was like ok this place should still have two cc lancer station wagons so ill grab some bits off them, discovered they had gone Sat in the car and had a look at the other wreckers as I had already paid for tolls and found out the Imlachs in Dandenong had just gotten a station wagon in. So drove the 30mins to get there (still an hour to get home from this wrecker) and I hit gold managed to get the below for $100 (tempted to go back and grab the engine tbh) cluster said 500000km but the interior was immaculate and the engine looked new under the oil cap. Exterior was rough as, was hoping to grab a front bumper and grill for RWC as trying to get it to pass with a fiberglass evo 3 bumper will just not work. But they were too far gone (so ordered a brand new set from Supercheap and another left hand indicator for $150) Managed to get the below from Imlachs Led bulb set for headlights (free) Lots of screws , relays and bolts etc :p (free) Stereo surround in amazing condition (with din pocket etc) Speaker covers (have since discovered my door cards have been hacked so need to get new lower door cards Might go back and grab the manual window ones from the wreck another day) 3 door scuff plates in good condition Right hand side vent as mine was cracked LH indicator (not happy with the lens was going to swap lens via oven baking but brought a new one for $26 instead) Manual gearbox cables as mine were missing the cover on the firewall (mine however have new bushings, ive also got a brand new set from amyama as well) 4 ok quality kenwood speakers as the car has none (Discovered the front doors don't have speaker cables :s) I have a spare dash loom so will have to see if I have them otherwise will need to get some) these where $6 each A custom pod filter adapter/holder (cost me $5) (wont be using it for awhile but couldn't resist with the effort someone had gone into to make it) Another rad overflow bottle as I cant find the one I had :S they charged me for the cap as well :s Will post pics later Waiting on intercooler joiners to redo the hot side of the intercooler piping and still waiting on a replacement shock insert
    1 point
  40. So the rad pipe adapter with the M16x1.5 threaded hole the 1/8"npt side had been tapped on an angle so the temp sensor I have wouldn't fit Ebay seller asked me to destroy it and he would refund me so I cut it in half with my grinder Rummaged around in my tool box and found I did have a 14mm drillbit so drilled another hole in the original adapter I had and tapped that
    1 point
  41. Full new set of window switches arrived, rear passenger window is still having issues going back up so might need to give it a clean out or replace it New front shock canister insert on the way, and have raised the left hand side one without issues, wheel to guard gap is huge atm, will see how it sits once I have the other one back in and it on the ground Also turned the dampener settings down to the lowest setting on all shocks so its not so hard, will adjust up once I have it on the road and see how it drives with a proper wheel alignment Have a few other parts on the way Park-light bulbs Door Handle trims Din slot holder Will have a crack at replacing the turbo (hot) side inter-cooler piping to try get some more ground clearance this weekend, not touching the down-pipe off the turbo at this stage so that will be my lowest point, need to give the car a good clean as well
    1 point
  42. We (well, mostly @Guypie.. I kind of just handed him beers and water blasted the old fence palings) made a chair to take advantage of our view
    1 point
  43. you could just fit a morris minor body on this, ya know if you feel crazy bout 5mm wheelbase difference, and 2 inches wider
    1 point
  44. Alright.. all confessions, the motors not mounted. Just sitting on strops. how ever the Gbox member is done and bolted it, with the box level that’s pretty close to where the motor will sit. unfortunitly the factory mounts on the chassis are waaay to far forward. And actually interfere with the thermostat housing and alternator. after talking to a cert guy and couple other onto it guys I’ve though best to leave it to someone else. Bloke down the rd does nothing but motor sport stuff and said 1/2 to a full days work, so I’ll leave it to him when he’s got time in a couple weeks. in the mean time, I can finish and bleed brakes, install drive shafts, new hard line for clutch slave location. install hi steer kit. and that’ll get it moving. from there it’s: intake manifold fuel system wiring ECU and tuning. Good feeling to make progress
    1 point
  45. If you do one component you will have to do every component or your OCD won't rest
    1 point
  46. yup dug this out of the old pic bin..
    1 point
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