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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/16/21 in all areas

  1. Finished the runner system pattern. So now all the sump patterns are complete, waxed and ready to go! . Only took 4 months.haha
    18 points
  2. Cheers @tortron. Have had my eyes on those for a while. They're probs fucked. And i've already got more ND tachos than i have the need for. They're the correct shape, just don't have the idiot light tubes. In Laverda news. I've sent head to Radax Australia for a rebuild. I've got all the gearbox bearings and gaskets to put bottom end together. Waiting to get cases back from some repairs. Then its dropping off for vapour blasting and i can start assembling the engine! I got the head vapour blasted before i sent it away. So here's some pics of that, cos picless posts are dumb.
    10 points
  3. Happy birthday coronet! In 1970 On a probably overcast day in St.Louis,Missouri..you were as rust free as you were ever going to be! some parts showed up from the states today-indicator cancelling cam and camber bolts, My 2.5L tin of hammerite which should be enough for a few cars-worth of lovely black protection too. first coat on arms: And just because, some reference for vinyl top and stripes (it won’t be green) ive never really been a vinyl roof fan but this looks tits so I’ll put one back on mine.
    9 points
  4. 8 points
  5. Did actually finish up the airbox - just dont have any finished photos. Incorporated a duct behind the bumper too. Anyway, latest time filler is a carbon plenum back half. Old one was a stock piece with a patch welded in to allow room for aftermarket trumpets (clearance issues for cylinder one). Very much early stages here but basic shape came out nice. Used a similar technique as last time - expanding foam covered in fibreglass then body filler for final shaping. Most of the shape in this is still the original plenum. Scratches are just from resting it on a workbench when taking it out of the mould. Still needs a sand and another layer of resin so no issue there. Plus trimming etc
    8 points
  6. Started making up my headers today... Picked up a flange plate from m&m racing.. A 2" mandrel multi and a 2 1/2" multi from tbl... Got a 18" resonator, dumpy and flexi on its way... This header is 1.5hr in the making... Most of that was just head scratching to clear the pitman arm on full lock. Stoked with it so far. Gotta pick up a 2 into 1 collector today to finish it off.
    5 points
  7. Smacked out some pannier racks on the weekend. There is one more re support thats not completed yet in this photo, its a removable strut back to the lower point of the rear mudguard. Its my 3rd set of these ive made with my little 16mm plumbers bender. usually use 1.6mm tube but steel and tube was all out so these ones at 2mm. Nice and strong, gave the bender a work out though. started to the hang of it nicely: The aim was to get them as slim as possible. think i achieved that, didnt want to risk the bag melting on the exhaust so left a bit of room there, ive got a wee heat shield to go on it for a wee bit of extra safety there. Managed to get a morning with no wind so slapped a few coats of 2k high build primer on all the fairings. will give them all an 800g block back one evening this week then drop them all off at my painters for a coat of white. Making some progress now!
    5 points
  8. Chrysler rocked the vinyl. Mod tops and floral too!
    4 points
  9. In Aussie, quite a few of them mount XR tanks for the long haul. Cause you know, you should try and ride a postie bike across a desert...
    3 points
  10. Just realised mt patriach is 1600 something meters big. Mile high club? hahahaha...
    2 points
  11. Definitely slower. Makes the gn feel powerful. And lush. never thought I would say that about a gn250.
    2 points
  12. looks similar, maybe good for parts @Goat https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=3014570138&bof=bSn9f7UP
    2 points
  13. I just pulled the column out, got to top bolt (only just) and booster off! Can’t just paint this one..Its leaking lots of brake fluid and I’m certain it’s not supposed to. Off for a rebuild then
    2 points
  14. I hate to bleat on about it, but 6t he magic of this epic journey still fills me with joy. (The thought of the new parts my bike needs, not so much)
    2 points
  15. Met a bloke in the weekend wit a yz/ it tank on his ct. fitted and worked well.
    2 points
  16. Still battling with the top arm ball joint. Thought I’d weld a scrap bracket on and give it a belt. it tore. sandblasted them and gave a coat of brunox in the mean time. then if by some divine intervention the mrs dragged me out of bed early for a swap meet. Chris was there flogging some of his pop’s gear (Chrysler man) and amongst it was the fucking ball joint socket! Donated to the cause along with some new valiant + Desoto ball joints, a valve stem seal set and a cool vintage car jug to carry it home in. Thanks! Can confirm the bushes are the same as those listed for Valiants too Now awaiting my tin of hammerite black to arrive so i can slap some nice hard-wearing paint on! also pulled the trans, D-shaft and exhausts out. Started into the brake booster and master but came to a screeching halt.. the last of 4 nuts up behind the dash can be seen but not touched. I got a socket on but couldn’t reach with ratchet. I got a spanner on but couldn’t turn it. Also super close to the bracket so nothing sits square on the nut...... Chunder. I’d get it if the column was pulled but I don’t really want to. Same with the dash but I don’t really want to. time will tell, hahaha I've paid 3k towards the repair panels and shipping, hope to catch the container leaving on 30th
    2 points
  17. Here's the Newspaper ad from the clipboard:
    2 points
  18. Did an awesome trade today. I now have a T57 crankshaft. Pretty lucky that it was less than 2hours away from me and the guy was awesome. Traded a bunch of my Lotus stuff + few $, he definitely did me a solid! Crankshaft from Engine #210 Rods from Engine #293
    2 points
  19. So a while back this popped up on trademe, in wellington. I was first to view and bought it then and there. A big gamble as it had been completely stripped down for over 25 years! Its a 1979 Laverda 3CL. Its a 1000cc, 3 cylinder, 180 degree crank Italian stallion. These were the fastest production bike in the world for a bit. A claimed top speed of 140mph. They're pretty rare. With only 7 thousand odd being manufactured across all triple variants (3C, 3CL and the Jota) Its a major project. I though i'd just get it, put it all back together and sell for big bux. lol. Yeah right. She's a bit fucked. It was completly stripped down in the mid 90s, and has moved around a few owners since. Has spend the last 13odd years under some dudes house. I'm a sucker for misery/punishment, so i've decided to do the right thing and fix it up proper. This is collection with Seedy AL and his sweet ute. All the parts were wrapped so i had no idea the condition or what was missing: Parts laid out in the shed ready for a shit load of stress and money. Oh boy. The color and seat are vial and will definitely be changed. Just what i need. Exotic 70's Italian engineering in unknown condition and in random bits and pieces. Yay.
    1 point
  20. Neat colour. Also, that seat pattern and colour is exactly the same as my VG valiant , must have been a todd motors thing?
    1 point
  21. see last page for welding durapox. i clean off the area around it tho (1cm ish square with my finger sander for spot welds, it wont strike a good arc if its painted on any thickness and welds way better cleaning the bead area off, i found i had to do that anyway with "weld through" primers, and still got a worse result) if you have a gun blow the durapox on, mine always ends up with a bit of a texture but i do try put on about 3 full layers, I dont think i have ever tried top coat directly on it If i were you, i would scuff the whole thing with somewhere between 120 and 600 depending on how the original finish and repairs are, and then i would blow the whole lot with primer because there is always some shitty old paint repair that bubbles up and then you have to sand and prime that panel again anyways *but i see you are doing it with cans, so just scuff the thing with 600 and spray it on. You will still get a good result with a small compressor and a half decent gun I spray in my shed and honestly never have much of a problem with overspray, just the clear leaves dust on everything so i cover the other cars with a movers blanket. Better to just spray it all inside in one go. Put some painters plastic over the walls if you want it will only take half an hour with a big roll + that means all the dust is stuck behind the plastic i can do it literally in the space of the car plus enough room to walk around it - big stuff means my elbow rubs the wall as i spray lol, but it comes out fine
    1 point
  22. That'll handle the bumps better than a GN! I wonder if it'll be slower?
    1 point
  23. Hi @Mr.Mk1. I think if anyone can rehabilitate this its you. Keep up the good work. Can I have a pic of the balljoint socket? Thanks.
    1 point
  24. Man you need to get this out in the mud with @kprs hilux. that would be a killer combo. Man I enjoy this truck!
    1 point
  25. There was some real farm spec shenanigans going on with the rear brake cable. looking at the front forks I could prob squeeze a 3.50 chonky golden boy in there.
    1 point
  26. Not too much news here, dragged the car out to Twin Rivers car show today. It seems that in the last year or so there has been a sudden spike in interest in old Toyotas. Had quite a lot of people stop and look at it. Noone could really identify that the EFI system was custom so it looks like I have succeeded in making a subtle system. One old guy was staring at it and said "It doesn't look like the KP60s I worked on in the 80's but I can't really tell what is different". There were no other Starlets at the show, which was quite a surprise. There were heaps of AE82 GT liftbacks though, I swear none of the 183 of them have died yet. I also got some NOS Bosch ignition leads from RockAuto the other day because they were stupidly cheap: Have to take it for a WoF in a week, should hopefully go through without too much of a problem. Might do an oil change next weekend. Also took it on a late summer high country camping mission a few weeks ago.
    1 point
  27. https://debossgarage.com/ics2021/entry/1615686997-2020-dynafari-scratch-built
    1 point
  28. Wow I have had this car for a long time. To stubborn to sell it so better do something with it. Mitsis are re-united again. I was a bit of an effort to get the car in the garage. Four of us were unable to push it so I had to shunt it in with the daily. Plans for it are still pretty similar to the original ones. I have a twin cam head off a vr4 that will go on the engine. Engine will be coming out in a week or so and will be pulling down and measuring bits. If the crank is stuffed i have a couple of spares so no dramas there. Basically i will be focusing on allot of the smaller jobs for now and getting it all cleaned and set up for when i can bring myself to part with some cash to build an engine. Hopefully the next update will be sooner than 14 years away. lol At least i have had 14 years to learn allot more and have a much better idea of what i am doing.
    1 point
  29. got these high pipes made up today, turned out super sweet looking, only downside is they are wayyy too loud so i'm going to have a go at making some baffles/mufflers. once i get them quiet enough that i'm happy with it ill make up some heatshields for them and a-couple of hangers too. (please ignore the terrible car in background its not mine)
    1 point
  30. Here's a compilation of my snaps from last weekend - enjoy!
    1 point
  31. Once i got the 45 degree bends positioned to where i wanted i set about making the tailpipes. Originally I wanted rippled pipes and tried having a bash myself with no real results to show for it as the tube was too heavy a gauge, so ive settled for just straight pipes with a flared end which i made myself by making a tapered die on the lathe at work and used my hydraulic press to put the flare in. Id used a tow ball for my 1st goes which looked not too bad but it was hard to get the tow ball to sit perfect and it would give an uneven flare. Overall im quite happy with how the exhaust has turned out, I'll sort the mounts out and fully weld it up once I redo the hardtail, its pointless doing the same job twice.
    1 point
  32. Slowly getting there with this thing. Will probably replace coils. I’ve got some genuine Suzuki parts to come, shims and a master cyl rebuild kit. Going with braided Hel lines up front and will swap the genuine fuel tap onto this from my pop up katana. Ive still got Hagon shocks to replace the shitty stock ones. I should rebuild forks at some point too.
    1 point
  33. I mulled over that exhsust last night and I wasn't 100% on it so I had a rethink and decided the other side would run over the top of the timing cover. And the right side would go straight out and down. It was a bit of mish getting the tubes to run parallel with both the down tube and bottom frame rails but I got there in the end. On to the other side when I get more tube.
    1 point
  34. One of the most noticeable and annoying things that are missing were the clocks. One would expect something like this to have some super bespoke italian clocks or something. But fortunately, most of the Italian exotics of the 70's, well, Ducati's and Laverdas anyway, ran nippon denso clocks. Cool. They are the same style as the Cb750. Oh awesome. Should be easily be able to find some. WRONG. They run the same style as the 1970 CB750 k1. Which are super rare. (yet still more common than Laverda clocks). These have the idiot lights inside the clock and have some sweet jewl lenses on the faceplate. I somehow managed to find a pair on trademe, though the dude only sent me the tacho, and couldnt find the speedo. Argh!!! Need restorin g, and the drive touches the needle sometimes, hopefully i can space it out when i swap faceplates. You can see the Neutral and Oil lights at the bottom: If any of you jokers have a speedo like the above in your hoard, please let me know!! My backup plan was to source later model CB clocks, and modify them to accept idiot lights in the back. Pretty easy, but I would like to do it properly for a bike like this, as they're pretty collectable. They are pretty much identical except for the provision for the 2 idiot lights. There are some slight differences, but they will work sweet and look OEM until you take them apart. No biggie. I've managed to get a couple of these later style clocks ready to roll if i need to (which i could also use on my ducati when i get around to restoring that, so no major if i don't use them for this build). Will tackle and document the gauge restoration once i've got the motor back together. Everything is in full swing, will update as i have stuff to report for anyone interested in the resto.
    1 point
  35. Here is Red cutting off the crushed old slingers and rolling on his new ones. You can see all the crud in this one: And done: Crank going back together: Finished product. All new bearings, new bottom end rollers, a couple of replacement conrods, and 2 new crank web with pins. $$ but worth it. Better than new (literally, as this year (1979) the factory fitted incorrect bearings that would catastrophically fail within 20,000ks! haha. So Italian): So now this is safely on my bench. I've dropped the cases off to get some broken threads welded up, aswell as the oil pump surfaced machined as it has a horific scratch in it. I also dropped the barrels to see what can be done about the scoring. Cant pick it up with fingernail, so hopefully just a hone and i can continue running STD size pistons. Once i get the cases, its off for vapour blasting. Then i can put it all back together. New gearbox bearings are en-route. So hopefully have the bottom end nipped up by the end of feb.
    1 point
  36. After some initial investigation, I soon saw why it was pulled down, cylinder number 1 bottom end. fucked.: It has had some catastrophic engine failure at some point. There was damage to the cylinder head, cam chain guides, pistons and crank. It looks like the cam chain had snapped at full noise. Damaging everything related. Oh boy. Worst looking damage seemed to be the crank above. (or so i could see) After trying to find someone keen to tackle a Laverda crank rebuild, i ended up having to send it to Redax Engineering in australia. The dude there Red is a super GC. Gave me guidance and advice, and fully rebuild the crank with new bits and bobs, including largely unobtanium bottom end bearings from his own personal stock. Legend! I built a custom crate, and sent it away not knowing what to expect. Got to Red all good and he set about working his magic. The laverda runs a low PSI oil system that pretty mush just pushes oil where it needs to go. All the bearings are roller, so it only needs oil, not pressue. It has sheet metal slingers on the crank, which centrifuge oil into the main bearing. It needs super regular oil changes, as if you have dirty oil, all the particulate centrifuges out and blocks up the slingers. Which happened to cylinder number 2. Fucked: He was doing a few other cranks at the same time:
    1 point
  37. Page 4, shame... Haven't done much lately due to working on the stockcar to get that ready for opening night... Didnt happen cos the headgasket let go. So back on this today. Got the engine and box fully mounted. Headers bolted up, carb on. Stock accelerator cable will work. Wiring is all in the same locations. Radiator is bolted up to the hunter mounting points, oil cooler mounted. Just need shorter oil lines. Only fab work left is the new driveshaft, and slightly mod the headers to get it away from the steering box a bit more. Cut the shifter hole 50mm back.. Then pull the lot out to rebuild and clean it all up. Will run a howe/quartermaster release bearing to do away with the fork and slave.. Saves smashing the bulkhead for clearance. Tons of room in there for activities.
    1 point
  38. Needs to slight left a little, but I need to remove the reverse switch. It's not needed on the hunter anyway, no reverse lights
    1 point
  39. Engine and box is mounted. Does need to come back out so I can chop off the factory mounts, thump in some clearance for the fork and slave 10mm if that. And remove the reverse switch. And believe it or not, the hunter gearbox mount bolts directly to the rx7 box. No mods at all on the gearbox crossmember or mount. Dafuq..??? Rx7 radiator practically bolts directly to the hunter bolt holes too. Just need to cut 100mm of the shifter hole out and spin it round.. Too easy. I would like to space the crossmember down 10mm to see if it gives enough clearance for the slave, and a slightly better yoke angle.
    1 point
  40. The hunter box is longer than the rx7 box. Shifter and box mounts are in very similar positions. Hunter box is taller due to the shifter rail.. Looking good for throwing in the hole
    1 point
  41. I finally managed to get the HIPS material working on the 3d printer (it's dissolvable in a particular chemical) One of my long term dreams for ages has been to have a good dissolvable core so I can lay up CF on it nicely and end up with a good light weight complex shape. However I've never had access to the chemical either so I wasnt sure if it was feasible to get or if it would damage the epoxy or carbon. Turns out you can buy D-Lemonine from the chemical supplier in Hamilton and it wasnt too expensive. So bought 2 litres to test - it also turns out that epoxy and CF are completely impervious to it. Awesome! For printing a part I decided to start with something easy as I'm always over reaching a bit trying something complicated then falling short. So after a few test prints to get the proportions feel right I managed to get a decent-ish gear stick shape. The idea is to use sleeve over it, and then the messy bit at the end will tuck under that little cap which screws in place but then dissolves later. So then I could put a little shifter icon thing or a logo or something set down into it, then fill it with clear epoxy to give some depth to it. Loose layup with the sleeve to see if cap fits ok: The sleeve couldnt quite go small enough to the diameter I wanted at the bottom so I had to widen it a bit. Yeah I'm wearing a dressing gown, what of it? Revised the print and just wet layup and turned out pretty sweet. It's had enough time for the epoxy to cure so now it's sitting in the bath of D-lemonine slowly turning its innards into goop. I waxed the HIPS to try block its porosity so the epoxy doenst leech into it and stop the chemical process from happening. Think I've probably got another 12-24 hours before it'll all be dissolved but looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
    1 point
  42. It's been great learning to program Arduino. Like there are just so many situations where it can be useful. I mean sure I havent done any of them yet. But I could. haha
    1 point
  43. what a bloody roller coaster the windscreen instillation turned into. got everything ready and Nick the sparky came and gave me a hand and we put the back screen in. then we went to put the front one in and it was way to wide at the top to fit any where near right so out it came. remember this is the same screen that came out of the car so what the fuck? closer inspection reveled some insights as to why the screen was a bit weird when i took it out. i never thought much of it at the time but the screen was sitting down in the bottom channel with what would amount to a gap (if it wasn't full of windscreen sealant) at the top. now i know why. so, sand the edge of the glass with a DA sander and 80 grit to remove the 3mm a side that needed to not be there in order for it to fit. 2021-03-13_02-57-38 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-03-13_02-57-47 by sheepers, on Flickr that took a total of 4 hours to remove the extra width from the screen. but, now it should fit. so i trial fitted it and all was well. except, remember the rear screen and how it was all good, done and dusted? yea well i used the wrong mastic and the rear screen had to come out and i had to clean the shit off everything and clean the glass and get it all ready to do again, except this time with the right sealant. so, take two. was all ready to re-install both screens with the right sealant and with the front screen fitting right, i just had to chamfer the edge of the glass where i had sanded it because it was a bit sharp and i didnt want to leave anything that could chip and start a crack. so i sanded the edges, just like i had been doing for 4 hours and the front windscreen exploded. 2021-03-14_02-17-22 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-03-14_02-17-27 by sheepers, on Flickr fuck i was pretty unhappy with life at that point. so cool, id broken both screens out of the car. good one. i cried into my beer for a while then i thought id just ask my mate if the parts sedan i had still existed. i had told him i was done with it and he could squash it about 7 months ago. lucky for me hes a lazy bastard and he hadn't got around to getting rid of it. so i went up to Kemeu this morning and got the front screen out of the sedan and now i have a front screen. its the same (read wrong and still doesn't fit) brand as the one i had but this time i sacrificed the pins that hold the trim clips and just mashed it in. so now both screens are in the car. the back one is super mint mainly because its a genuine toyota one and the front one is as good as its going to get. cool, that will do. 2021-03-14_02-17-39 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-03-14_02-17-47 by sheepers, on Flickr
    0 points
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