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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/06/21 in all areas

  1. 9 points
  2. Shouldn't be too hard to get it good enough for the next rodeo on Jan 23/24th. It can stay a bit rough and will finish it when I've got new doors to get the lines right.
    9 points
  3. Made a start on pulling the dents out. My shed neighbour let me borrow his porta power. Managed to get most of the shape back into the panel. The door will be replaced at some stage, so I'm not too worried about getting that straight, but will spend a bit of time getting the quarter panel as straight as possible with a hammer and dolly. After some initial kicks and chipping off bog (it's not a virgin panel, haha) Then after a poke with the porta power: It's got a few ripples! But already a big improvement.
    8 points
  4. Found something I made a long time ago when I planned to have 2 gauges in the middle of the dash, welded a washer in one side for the ignition, I will move the oil pressure gauge up next to the ignition and install the 2nd temperature gauge down below. It would actually look cool if I set all the gauges in the dash but I cannot be bothered,
    7 points
  5. Polished firewall is all templated and holes drilled ready to panelbond in place. will do this once the front clip is painted gloss black.
    6 points
  6. Hope everyone had a good break over Xmas and new year. i didn’t get much done as we have a new lab pup so plenty of sleepless nights. painter mate dave come over today yo start masking up and prepping the last little bits. with any luck will get the epoxy primer and underseal done this weekend.
    6 points
  7. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - RHS ‘A’ - Post Scratch Build. Original A post was not salvageable due to multiple accidents (t-bone, roll-over, etc.) and ham fisted "repairs" with large hammers and cutting torches. Drilled out the spot welds and cut it off but left the upper hinge mount temporarily as a datum. Marked for cutting. I began to be concerned. I did a bit of a hack job cutting it loose at the top. This is a serious piece of structure removal and the metal underneath doesn't look so great either. Will the Bluebird ever be made whole again? I'd never attempted anything like this so took it slowly and methodically reverse engineered it based on the LHS A post. it turned out quite well.The fitment with respect to location on the body was the only minor issue. i had to install it several times with Teks until getting an okay fit with the the hinges, latches, door gaps and all the other adjoining metal work mocked up. Finally resorting to a floor jack under the door to "fine tune" it. Original after removal showing the attached internal bits. Patterns taken off the LHS A-post. Then cut out the outboard face with an extra margin for bending over just past the fore and aft edges. Fore and aft patterns set up for metal cutting. I intended to make it out of just three pieces but that didn't work out. So later on I made the little triangle section at the top separately. I ran each piece through a bead roller tipping die at the bend lines and followed with hammer and dolly to beat the flanges over. Early checks of the individual pieces on the car looked promising. Aft facing piece shown. The early outboard face piece shows the attempt to include the upper triangle. As mentioned, that was the intent but didn't work out. Forming the tipped edges with various panel beating tools. Further on-car refinement which permitted making scribe trim lines into the fore and aft faces. Leading to tack welding it together. Back on the car, it's beginning to resemble an A-post! Fits quite well so far. With a bit of hinge bolt hole drilling, and cleaned up inside bits salvaged from the original A-post, I carefully worked on fitting the tacked assembly to mate up with the rebuilt door hinges. Oh yeah, regards the hinge pin replacements, I used an 8mm hinge and bushing kit that I believe was for a Toyota Hilux. Normally this is a routine repair job but not in this case. The old hinge pins were a terrible job to remove because of each pin being previously broken internally into three pieces. If pushed on, the inner bits just kicked over and jammed or mushroomed up. No amount of force was going to make them move at all. I had to extract the splined pin end by TIG welding a plate to it and using a large slide hammer meant for axle pulling. And even then I had to drill some of the remaining stuck bits out. That was not fun. The door catch/stop bit was tacked in later (not shown in above pic). Then did multiple fit check iterations on car until frustration set in and finally doing this in below pic. More new metal on the inner body and a slight "adjustment" for optimum gap with the outer sill. And yes, the upper sheet metal is still a bit sketchy. I fear catching the car on fire! For fire safety, I'll eventually have to remove the instrument panel, wire harness and nearby insulation and only then fix the upper sheet metal since it's got rust craters and other significant surface damage. The new A-post assembly weld to the remaining post/front glass pillar will be via lap joints. The door fits good all around and latches perfectly. Leaving the RHS A-post as is for now until all the RHS metal fab and fitments are done, only then will the assembly be fully welded. More later, currently focused on the RHS B-post. Discussion: Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    6 points
  8. Managed to get most of another job ticked off over the last couple of nights. Running the handbrake cables internally. Due to the fact that the cables were already rubbing on the driveshaft and that the cars going in for more lowering in a few weeks I decided to get creative. Everything's working nicely. I will have to make up a cover and some little mounts for the cover so that it can be removed if it needs any repairs but the majority of its there. Its nice to be getting these things sorted. Hopefully the cert man doesn't shit himself
    5 points
  9. No where near final but my goal was to have it driving by end of holidays so it's close, of course I diddnt compromise on the quality unless I know I have to buy parts to do it, generally it's just small things that will improve, those will come later
    5 points
  10. It's now all done and working except for tach, will now just need oil for diff and gearbox, have put water in but needs a flush as heater core is full of rust, no coolant corroded everything, just a couple of things and it will drive!
    5 points
  11. So I bought another sigma 1984 sigma wagon 4g63 sohc auto pictures to follow no wof no Rego but I'm gonna drive it home
    4 points
  12. Fitted a China cheapo hour meter tacho device the other day. Went out for about an hour last night, still don't have the nerve to hold it WOT for an extended period of time (because questionable twostroke). Seems pretty happy on the plane at 30-50km/h, did squeak it up to 60 at one point, has more in it, but I didn't have anyone to tow me back to the ramp if it shit itself. I imagine a bit more speed will be unlocked with an efficient pump. Around 4Krpm at 40km/h ground speed (plus or minus a tiny bit for water speed). Seemed around 7Krpm for 60km/h. Bad footage is bad. I still don't know where to set the variable trim on the nozzle at different times, I find myself adjusting it all over the place with only very minor effect felt. Only travelled about 3k out of town, but covered about 26km in total on the return trip. Had to slow down a lot in order not to swamp swimmers/kayakers/rowers/fishermen/ducks. Boat river journey 5-1-21 by John Bell, on Flickr Good fun though, just need more time available, and maybe to carry some extra fuel, it does seem to hoon through a reasonable amount.
    4 points
  13. Hello Summer. WOF booked for next Monday, hopefully it passes, it's only done about 30 Miles since the last one!
    3 points
  14. I'm actually getting the quarter done
    3 points
  15. Did some more tidying up of wiring
    3 points
  16. Howdy, been awhile. Life got in the way there for a bit; moved out of Auckland (subsequently moved house a couple of times with the Merc spending a bit of time in storage), had a baby etc. but Xmas holiday period has allowed me to make some progress. I wasn’t happy with the tabs I had welded on the upper rear airbag mounts, so ages ago I drew up some flange things and had them laser cut, finally got around to cutting the old tabs off and welding on the new flanges so thats all much tidier. Drilled some holes in the car so the aforementioned mounts have some way of attaching to the car, front two bolts come through from underneath the rear seat; the rearmost hole had a captive nut welded on the topside as it’s inside an enclosed box section of the car (welding upside down can suck a pineapple) Gave it a prime and a paint to match the rest of the underside The engine I mentioned is in no hurry to rotate, I spent some time trying to free it up with various liquids and heat but nah, Piston 1 isn’t budging. Was scrolling Facebook marketplace one evening looking for a transmission and stumbled across a guy selling another engine for cheap approx 800m from Sentra Daves place in sunny Onehunga so bought that. This motor is an M130 out of a W108, the last variation of the M180 engine family. Displaces 2.8 litres (vs 2.2l), make 160ish hp when new with improvements including larger valves in the head and 7 main bearings vs 4 in the smaller displacement versions. This one runs (although the cam has seen better days). An added bonus was that it came with a power steering pump attached and the power steering box from the W108 it came from - which bolts into a W111 as they’re the same chassis, So I need to source a shorter steering column from a W108 to suit and then I’ll gain power steering. (KY if you see this I still want that V8 so don’t panic) Spent the last couple of months leading up to Xmas buying various supplies to put some paint on things, including a couple of spray guns based on YouTube recommendations. Got a chance to give the boot floor a sand up then smooched some seam sealer around the place and waited for it to stop raining. Got a chance to mask it up, wipe it down and blow over a fresh layer of epoxy primer followed by some 2k satin black For my first foray into spraying paint it came up not bad.jpeg, couple of rookie balls ups mainly consisting of me dropping the air hose on the boot floor whilst trying to reach under the parcel shelf etc which has left a couple marks but it’ll all end up hidden under a rubber mat/carpet so I’m happy as with it. Rear tail light panel will end up body colour (which isn’t black). I’ll probably need to go back and brush on a couple bits that I couldn’t get the gun too. Progress feels good though.
    3 points
  17. Hey team, Wondering if anybody on here has gone really low on their S11X Toyota Crown, as I’d like a bit of info on how you’ve done it. I’m currently running lowering springs in the front (which needs to come down a few centimetres) and cut factory springs in the rear (which is a good height but I’d ideally like to go a little lower, since the front is coming down too). It’s low... but not as low as what I want. I’ve got the idea of changing my tyre setup from a 195/60/14 to a 185/55/14, which would give me 3cm less chassis height. I’d cut my already chopped rear springs a little more and replace rear bump stops with the universal blade on body style ones - ones I don’t mind chopping down to suit, just to close the arch gap. Being live axle, I’d also need to find an adjustable panhard to fit... maybe RA40 Celica or AE86? A lot of ideas for the rear, but the front has me stumped... If it wasn’t double wishbone I’d be straight into the adjustables but yet my budget isn’t huge for bags. If anyone could give me any info on how they’ve lowered there Crown, that would be awesome. Sorry for the spiel. pic for reference.. my current setup. cheers Tom.
    2 points
  18. Installed a few things I've had in my garage for a wee while. Digital clock took me a hour longer than I'll like to admit the I started trying to make a cluster with a tacho but I wanted to keep the Kms the same so I started the long hall. Got the cluster in tacho didn't work talk to a mate and he believes the tacho doesn't a connection from the coil. During the change over the rear windscreen wiper button fell apart lucky I had two spare ones haha
    2 points
  19. Sorting a few of the typical rust spots that these sigmas have I mean I've owned 3 of them so I should know by now. Rust replant and underbody coating
    2 points
  20. had another wonderful day of pushing shit up hill and trying to paint my car with it. decided that the amount of faffing around with the side spoilers warranted a can of high build primer, to save cleaning the gun a trillion times. drove to town and bought one. pulled the trigger and it promptly fountained paint all over my fucking hand. drove back to town and hit up the paint shop guys for an exchange. "no, you mustn't have shaken it up enough, here.... OK i've cleaned the nozzle out and gave it a real good shake up, works like a charm now" drove back home feeling like a bit of an idiot. went back to work on the car, grabbed the can and hit the trigger: if you can make out the picture through the tears of rage which somehow permeated the camera lens itself, this is what happens when a motherfucking geyser of paint from a shitbag fucking paint can hits 1k filler primer. well what you can see is from after i quickly wiped it off.. too bad it'd already taken the paint with it. not sure if leaving to dry would've been any better. guess i shouldve tested it first :/ didn't go back to the paint shop again, too mad
    2 points
  21. This arrived. It converts brake pressure into a closed switch, hence giving rear brake signal to non electric sensor brakes. Think it'll do the trick.
    2 points
  22. Fill that bad boy with vinegar and let it marinade for a couple of weeks. It's the cheapest option for converting rust.
    2 points
  23. thats crazy money for a DT connector, i can supply the 12 pin for $30ea, (my suppliers RRP is $37) downside is need special crimper for DT pins
    2 points
  24. Finally finished the boot this past weekend. Won't be everyone's cup of tea, but decided to do a spotted gum floor.
    2 points
  25. I spent a few hours today bolting on some parts; lots of NOS parts which I have been collecting for this project. Headlights temporarily fitted, new bezels, bumpers, clear front indicators, tail lights and rear reflectors. The headlights I bought a few years ago are an interesting thing for trainspotters like myself; a pair of Cibie Biodes. Invented in the late 1960's, before the H4 dual filament halogen bulb was invented, they take 2x H1 halogen bulbs. There is a separate reflector in the lower part of the headlight (which you can see) that is the high beam, and the upper bulb, which has a shroud and is not visible is the low beam. These were the choice of works rally teams in the late 1960's and early 1970's such as Ford Escort, Porsche 911 and Mini Coopers. Although very old technology, they are still give off an extremely good light output, even by todays standards. I was quite lucky to find these, they are extremely rare and sell for ridiculous money on Ebay.
    2 points
  26. Pulled the engine out of the falcon and got all the turbo goodies bolted up, been setting up the ECU to take the Fg throttle and injectors and converting the tune file with HP tuners while on nightshift, should have the engine wiring finished off in the next day or 2. Getting rid of the falcon body soon so will get the wagon back on the hoist and look at getting the engine in and mounted
    2 points
  27. Made some more progress today, gave it an eyed up wheel alignment, fitted up the new booster and master cylinder, repinned all the door hinges, refitted the cert plate and cut off the old exhaust ends. Also pulled out the pedal box to give that a small birthday while it was easy to get to it. Back on its own 4 wheels for the first time in 9 months.
    2 points
  28. Got the body in primer about 6 weeks ago It then took me all that time to get it up to a reasonable state so that it could then be painted. So then a couple days a go we loaded it up on the trailer (only just fit!) and dragged it into the spray booth at work. Sprayed the base and clearcoat on, it turned out pretty good! A few runs around in places, but nothing that can't be fixed. Pretty stocked really! Could of easily gone wrong haha. Gonna leave it in the booth for a few more days to harden, then take it home and get some underseal on the underside. In the meantime get the rest of the panels ready for some paint too.
    2 points
  29. Well after staring at this in the workshop for the last 3 months while we've been massively busy at work and I've been caught up on the weekends entertaining my son I finally managed to get a couple of days to spend on this so I managed to mount my seats and get my tunnel fab'd up. I had to change my plan for the seats as my original design ended up too low and too far back surprisingly. Also the cert man wasn't happy with me removing the stiffer running the width of the car. So, I went back to the drawing board and came with this Then I made up a cardboard gearbox tunnel. And decided I better turn it into steel Happy to have those big jobs ticked off. I do still have to pull the engine and box to weld underneath but the hard work is done for the tunnel fabrication which is great
    2 points
  30. Fuck I’m hesitant to post these photos! I kinda went pretty out the gate on the wheels. I wanted something different and I thought the japs used to have pretty crazy wheel colours back in the days. So I present to you my new wheel set up. This sure as hell won’t be for everyone but I’m really liking it. Please keep in mind the cars getting dropped significantly, I got the wrong size rear tyres so they’re being changed and also my spacers haven’t arrived yet. Anyway, I’d love to hear people’s honest feedback......... Again, discussion here:
    2 points
  31. couple more pics for fun had the old scuttle sandblasted. Lucky it wasn't going back on RH door is kooked. Panelman said he could fix it but it'd be a fuckaround. LH door is spotless. In fact I've never seen a starion door rot out at the top like that Donor door has a tiny ding in it but is otherwise perfect. I have an entire unused container of bog (starion strength) which I have lost the hardener for, I'm disproportionally upset about this EDIT: found the hardener, score! My offspring attempting to torch the project. This guy is also the reason the brake pins went missing and I only found them days later when I turned the dryer on
    2 points
  32. so i bought a new (for me ..actually the newest car I've ever owned ) daily driver.(had it since august now) its a 2003 mk1 ford focus st170. i have wanted one of these for a long time and we didnt get many at all here in nz so they dont come up for sale ...very often .. they are problematic and are known to had issues from the day they came off the production line. but that problematic nature got me a good deal..it was $6900 from the dealer and had been traded in..(177000 odd ks.......should have imploded by now)..but evertime time someone test drove it the check engine light came on ..so they returned it...i drove it 3 times over the space of a week and the light came on within the test drive each time. (5min -30min). so i went back and just said i would take it off they're hands for $3500 with no warranty ....just slap a wof and reg on it and ill take it...(dont think they did much reading up on it.) few days later and probably a few other test drives they rang me and i went and picked it up...(engine light came on on the way home.) but as im pretty updo date on these things i also know that nothing the engine light comes on for will put it into limp mode....and some have had the light on for 10 years in the uk lol....they even say you should be concerned if it doesn't come on.... so a small run down on these mk1 focus st170. the motor is a 2.0 zetec (not duratec as it says on plug cover).the motor was developed by cosworth and is 2.0 block with forged pistons and a 10.2 compression. . alloy high flow head (the flow is shit to be honest and people have had huge gains porting them) , vvt on the intake (problematic) dual stage intake manifold (the controller is problematic ) stainless 4 into 2 into1 headers and high flow cat..and a sports exhaust ( sounds good) ..has a pre and post cat o2 seonsors (also problematic ).has a factory cold air feed to air box that doesnt acutallu go to the airbox. a dual mass flywheel 9 that i cant stand)and all of this is good for 170hp and the cut is 8000rpm. has a close ratio 6 speed box , quick rack steering , huge brakes front and rear , factory 17s with 215 tyres, traction control , factory reacrao seats , . and being a jap inport it doesnt have the uk rust ( and these things are dropping down in numbers daily due to the rust issues.)...its a blood fun car and handles well......even cocks a leg when you throw it into roundabouts.. since i had it ive had the inlet runner controler apart and cleared that code...replaced the pre o2 and cleared that code....(engine light came back on the same day lol). replaced the plugs (not cheap and need to be gapped at 1mm no more and no less...runs like shit otherwise)...i do have a new coil pack and leads on the way as well... i pulled the inlet manifold off last weekend (complete arse of a job) re greased the moving parts and changed the broken vacume hoses ..made a cold air feed and thats where im upto now.... i do have some plans for it slowly as it is my daily (seems better on 100 octane as well)..and just fix things as they go wrong......... and here she it......in imperial blue as well......mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm imperial blue
    1 point
  33. Lucky its not the 20v version, else you would still be in the driveway suffering for smoke inhalation
    1 point
  34. So have you decided RWD big ports are actually the best engines?
    1 point
  35. The MR2 early ZE had the bigger bottom end which leads to confusion? The worst engine for sure is the second gen bigport in early AE92's, I would guess that is what we are seeing above? Anyway we can all agree that the AE82 FXGT is the best config 4AGE that existed. Lightest chassis and those early big port revs all day (until you run big ends) you need a fresh one though, I have driven a bunch and some go way harderer than others. /ling
    1 point
  36. @Barnz.NZ had a batch of leather shifter boots made up, much nicer than the poorly fitting rubber accordion that's been in place for 2 years Have been driving this every chance I get, still doesn't feel real being able to its been that long. Planning to find another 1gge long block to assemble the supercharger on a stand to set everything up 100%. Have been trawling Google to find any more photos or specs or anything for the kit, have ordered a couple of Japanese 'Carboy' magazines from YAJ that have a few gems inside. There is temptation to twin charge with the hks single turbo manifold that often pop up (currently a NOS one being sold locally) Must refrain.
    1 point
  37. Holy Hell. Its been a long time, and car has had some different things happen to it. Went and had all the rust cut out ( sat outside for like 6 years and completely rusted out the doors / around screens / guards etc. ) I put a 4AGE in this, one of out my old SR coupe, found a T series disc brake rear end for this one, got it running yadda yadda. Then stripped it to get panel and painted. Its now white, with all the chrome / bits and pieces done in black. Also went and got the sump on my new bigport dipped and plated, alternator bracket, water pump pulley, spark plug cover etc all done ( gearbox crossmember too with new mount ) plus some light surrounds and random bits and pieces to make it look a tad nicer, excuse the old pics, have chucked in new bolts everywhere. Brand new door rubbers Brand new door cards New alternator New high torque starter Have just wrapped the exhaust and chucked that in tonight First time in 7+ years the car has BOTH window wipers and a wiper motor now. Got some Bathurst Globes for it which i'll sand up and chuck on. Hoping to have running by the 17th for the japanese meet, and then cert and sell...
    1 point
  38. When i do dinky brass terminals i crimp them then solder them followed up with light heat shrink to give them best chance of not cracking from vibration. Mind you everything i touch is pretty ropey and vibrates like crazy.
    1 point
  39. After 2 hours on the rotisserie and the internal temp to just over 60 I took it off, wrapped it and let it rest for about 20mins. Removed the string and cut it up and damn, not too bad. Juicy and tasty as, sticky on the outside. Made a quick sandwich for a snack and will be using it in noodles tonight. Probably freeze some of it for future ramen.
    1 point
  40. Thread dredge from page 6 haha. Progress has been very slow on this. Lack of room is just a killer. Tonight I pulled the 2l out. One step closer to pulling the cab off the c notch chassis . At least with the motor and box out it will be a little lighter to push in and out of the garage. That's all the progress for now. So here's a boring pic for a boring build
    1 point
  41. Making some more progress... Welded up these sill/b-pillar/dogleg sections as one Started hanging all of the doors with new hinge pins Need to throw some diesel in it so I can move it to strip the rest of the firewall and get the rest of the colour going.
    1 point
  42. So I got this ^ pump from @datlow (chur my bay) which arrived overnight, and I slapped it on in a temporary fashion for testing purposes, AND ITS FUCKEN FIXED IT!!!!! Praise be to Allah, it ran beautifully. We drove up to a bridge, and I did a few laps of some farmers paddock, and then we drove back, all without issue (until it ran out of gas, as in tank was bone dry) such a relief, I'm so happy I could shit a rainbow. @keltik should have some media for your viewing displeasure. Regards, V "fucking stoked" G.
    1 point
  43. One disadvantage of having the garage attached to the house is the fumes. Made up a cheap as extractor fan to help with it all. Back to the last bit of stripping.
    1 point
  44. Beach Hop 2020 done and dusted, no issues. Even got a quick shot on the tele-v
    1 point
  45. Picked up some greasy 14x7 turbos with huuuuge 195/70/14 for certification. Two seem to have the shank washer seat drilled deeper so that when I tightened the nut it was bottoming out on thread before wheel was properly seated against hub. Hopefully double washers are OK...
    1 point
  46. Got my fender mirrors on today. Really happy with how they look. Spaced out the accelerator cable so that I actually get the carby to open up. Wasn’t even pulling secondaries on the way home. Now she goes pretty damn well. Will get onto gauges and tidying up some of the little odd jobs next.
    1 point
  47. Me and my daughter rolled up the door panels today
    1 point
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