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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/01/21 in all areas

  1. Got the body in primer about 6 weeks ago It then took me all that time to get it up to a reasonable state so that it could then be painted. So then a couple days a go we loaded it up on the trailer (only just fit!) and dragged it into the spray booth at work. Sprayed the base and clearcoat on, it turned out pretty good! A few runs around in places, but nothing that can't be fixed. Pretty stocked really! Could of easily gone wrong haha. Gonna leave it in the booth for a few more days to harden, then take it home and get some underseal on the underside. In the meantime get the rest of the panels ready for some paint too.
    23 points
  2. Its alive! Idles, revs and has oil pressure (the light turns off) and fuel level sender , as you can see not much else but a good sign I haven't shorted stuff out or done something wrong, now it's just tidy tidy everything, happy new years!
    12 points
  3. Next video will have dumb shit
    11 points
  4. So yeah, after googling what wear rings are supposed to look like, and frowning at the pump from the donor banana ski, yesterday I removed the pump from GreenWaste and had a look. Two pumps on the floor, pretty much identical. IMG_20201231_102856_1 by John Bell, on Flickr I believe this is what a bad condition wear ring looks like, from the donor ski. Cracks and grooves, not toight. IMG_20201231_113413 by John Bell, on Flickr And this is what the Greenboat had in it, note the missing material around most of the diameter. Lots of clearance. IMG_20201231_113456 by John Bell, on Flickr So I figured bad was better than worse than bad, so gooped it up and bolted it back on. IMG_20201231_121347 by John Bell, on Flickr Sploot. IMG_20201231_133309_1 by John Bell, on Flickr Launched it into the harbour this morning and pootled about with VG and Keltik, it still doesn't feel 100%, but its pretty usable now and hooks up and pisses off quick enough for me. I will likely order some bits and pieces to tidy up the original pump and probably swap it back in the winter perhaps. IMG_20210101_104035_1 by John Bell, on Flickr I'm waiting for a China GPS speedo, and need to fit a hour meter/tacho, fit some latches to the hood, attach the paddles in a better way, and I think that'll do for now. What a novelty having a working toy
    9 points
  5. Happy new year. 2021 shall be the year of the Fiat. A strategy has been mapped out with the ministry of finance to get this thing back on the road. I have lined up a semi retired panel beater who happens to actually like cars to fix this thing for me. No, I do not feel like a failure... In preparation I needed to remove the rear bumper which necessitates removal of the boot lining and fuel tank. The boot lining is not too bad except for the left side panel which is wedged in quite tight. I can see why it’s cracked, somebody has had it out before me to graft in a high stop light, daisy chained from the left brake light. If I ever feel inclined, the cracks should be an easy enough fix with some fibreglass. Inside the boot isn’t bad. I vacuumed out all the crud and there is just a small rust hole in the left side, bottom of the rear guard. Wheel well is all good. There is a lot of cavity wax inside it, which I’m not sure is factory, but certainly beneficial. Tank out is easy, then the bumper is even easier, and there we have it, bare bum. Bonus, tank looks pretty mint too, although starting to smell a bit stale with the bulk of the remaining petrol in there being upwards of 5 years old.. Bring it on! Can’t wait.
    6 points
  6. I think I have solved it, it's probably a combo of two things; The expansion tank had quite a long connecting tube, plus it was quite low relative to the filler. I think that it was just struggling to pull the coolant back. I did a cheeky mod to check this which allows me to monitor the coolant and give a bit of gravity assist; This highlighted the second and possibly more relevant issue. Because I could see what was happening I soon realised that it takes quite a lot of time for the engine to cool enough to suck it all back. I had been waiting half an hour or so to check the levels, but it has taken something like 4-5 hrs to suck most of it back after a 20 min drive today. So actually it was me introducing the air when I cracked the cap. What a dumb cunt. For some reason I had only ever checked it the day after when I had done a long drive, obviously giving it enough time to suck it back. Clearly this skewed the results and probably created a problem where possibly there wasn't one. Doh! Anyway with the earlier rad change there is enough room to put the tank just in front of the engine, and a more reasonable distance and height. I reckon I'll do that tomorrow.
    5 points
  7. Well after staring at this in the workshop for the last 3 months while we've been massively busy at work and I've been caught up on the weekends entertaining my son I finally managed to get a couple of days to spend on this so I managed to mount my seats and get my tunnel fab'd up. I had to change my plan for the seats as my original design ended up too low and too far back surprisingly. Also the cert man wasn't happy with me removing the stiffer running the width of the car. So, I went back to the drawing board and came with this Then I made up a cardboard gearbox tunnel. And decided I better turn it into steel Happy to have those big jobs ticked off. I do still have to pull the engine and box to weld underneath but the hard work is done for the tunnel fabrication which is great
    5 points
  8. Some oddities of this van, I'll leave the camper history on it, I might turn this into a camper, not sure yet...
    4 points
  9. Happy New Year ! Thought I'd start 2021 off by test fitting my combined steering bracket, so chucked it on with a few random nuts and bolts. Although the rack isn't connected up yet, the movement of the steering shaft and angle box is nice and smooth. Whilst putting the gearshift pivot arm through its paces I noticed that the shift cable rubs up against the chassis leg at full arc. Not ideal, so I decided to do something about that. Pulled everything apart again and have now re-positioned the mounting holes for the arm slightly lower. Meant I needed to elongate the hole in the bracket that the pivot pokes through. The elongated hole doesn't look that pretty, but it does the job. Fitted everything up again and the cable now has plenty of clearance. The steering bracket with all of its attachments looks like a busy little office, but there is space between the various components so hopefully it will all work out okay. Thanks for looking.
    4 points
  10. Found what was causing the intermittent wire feed when I used 0.6mm. Turns out the drive motor can move a little on it's mounting bolts, 10 or so years of tightening the roller had shifted the drive wheel down a little bit so the mechanism bottoms out before it's tight enough for the thinner wire. Fixed now. YAY! It was so frustrating. Zip zap. Got rid of the ugly seam flange thing. Welded inside first. Then cut off the flange and welded the outside. Then linished and used the knotted wire brush to show up any gaps I missed. Then weld and repeat until no gaps. I also welded up some rivet and bolt holes that are no longer required. I need to cut some round patches for the original heater pipe holes because I've relocated them. I've also welded in the modified cross member, but the photo was blurry. I still need to make some filler bits for the 'corners'.
    4 points
  11. Bought a couple 10.5kw, 30" fans 2nd hand, which should be enough to suck the nasties out. These are 3 phase so I really need Mr sparky to come and wire them in. You read my mind. Except more just to keep noise down a little for the neighbors in general and get rid of the tin can feeling inside. I had some left over noise batts at home and some normal batts I scored from work for a box of beers, so I banged them in the walls and threw up some noiseline gib for now. Built a false wall to enclose the fans as well. I bought some sheets of 60mm polystyrene for the ceiling too, but will wait for mr sparky to do his bit first. Also finishing off 2020 with a quick hit in the gem.
    4 points
  12. Heavy rain stopped play yesterday, so I only got to glue the steering bracket together today. Just needs a final tidy up with a flapper disk before I call it done.
    4 points
  13. I like this thread a lot so time for some contributions... random stuff I just found on my phone. I made a doll house thing in a little suitcase for my godchild and wire people Check for details... I also made her a dragon like doll to cuddle no pic of it all assembled Other gifts... Lamp for a friend who has bees and just had his first son at that time Rack for spices, one for my brother, one for my sister in law Some deco for my sons bedroom, a lamp... Another lamp And some cut in half dinosaurs For the daughter as a present something to hang and store clothers for her dolls And some covid protection thingy for my wife as she is a speech therapist V1 which was to wobbly according to her And V2 which she and her partner still use That's me for now, not revolutionary or shocking... Thanks for watching.
    4 points
  14. Also, I think I'm pretty settled on GreenWaste as a name for it, although am still considering TrashBoat. Trash Boat which is fuelled by Bin Juice.
    3 points
  15. I always knew this topic would end up at the holy grail, the su carb
    3 points
  16. Bedding in procedure done as per installation instructions can tentatively say i think these are better than the brembos i had on the calais previously. Slipped a cheeky 3mm spacer in as the whiskers on the tyres make a slight fizzing sound on the struts when im giving it beans into corners I'll pull them out once those wear off. Electrical bullshit still gone, thank fuck for that I'd forgotten how nice it is not having to warm it up before going anywhere.
    3 points
  17. Short vid clip of some playing in Lake Waihola with the family. Spot where I ended up coming in a bit hot and ended up on the beach. Was difficult to restart a few times when hot, need to revisit the start map and maybe add a few ms back in the injection timing. Up in Wanaka in a few weeks so planning to push it a bit more up the braids.
    3 points
  18. Interesting to note that with the gem on it, the brake was at 0% until the very last 1500rpm in that run where it ramps up to 20 to end the run, which took 7.5 seconds. Seems to have more inertia than I expected.
    3 points
  19. New seat is mint no rips yuuuus
    3 points
  20. We (well, mostly @Guypie.. I kind of just handed him beers and water blasted the old fence palings) made a chair to take advantage of our view
    3 points
  21. today went better. i got the little bit of surface rust of the inside of the scuttle panel and chucked some brunnox on it. poured some brunnox inside the fuel filler flap and then chucked some primer on things. yesterday i primed the car again so only the drivers side needs another coat, the rest of the car is ready for wet sanding. yay, wet sanding. 2020-12-30_02-33-07 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-12-30_02-32-59 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-12-30_02-32-45 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-12-30_02-32-52 by sheepers, on Flickr before priming, 2020-12-30_02-33-43 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-12-30_02-33-36 by sheepers, on Flickr after priming, 2020-12-30_02-33-29 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-12-30_02-33-22 by sheepers, on Flickr
    3 points
  22. Yes! If I had some time and skills and materials to send you stuff to test it would be interesting to see results of things like SU on a log manifold to see how much power it would lose Or see how much power it could make with something outside the box like a 650 holley
    2 points
  23. New stuff plus Porsche orange painted calipers look bloody sweet. I actually painted white first to really make it pop!
    2 points
  24. Your stuff comes up on my yt feed all the time now. The vids are great, I like that you get straight to it with no wank. I also like when you try out dumb shit.
    2 points
  25. Again, I have been spending the day colour sanding while I have the rare opportunity of solid days to myself But the idle speed is significantly higher than it was ~2500 rpm after cleaning the iscv. So regardless if that was the problem, it was definitely its own issue. I'll get under the hood and wind the idle back down later today hopefully and see what happen
    2 points
  26. Yeah I don’t remember having to clutch in on my nz new with that same switchgear. Had to be in neutral though.
    2 points
  27. Starting 2021 rite like pesking palmerston north early morning
    2 points
  28. Yuck (the throttle body is probably like this too)
    2 points
  29. Better epoxy that floor too incase some english cars turn up my vote for offtopic build of the year i think
    2 points
  30. Well yeah But nah Not sure what i ran this one on, possibly my falcon when it had the single barrel stromberg? Or i swapped the weber base with one of the guys and got this in return. Oh well, best be ordering a new one next week. Already loving how much freeer the engine feels, haven't messed with timing yet just warmed it up and set mixture by ear. When i get back to work i will play some more, but for now ooohhh boy i forgot how the old webers sound with no airbox.
    2 points
  31. bad angle but you get how it sits, its tilted forward at the bottom, maybe good for airflow... I dont know shouldn't matter too much
    2 points
  32. Thread dredge from page 6 haha. Progress has been very slow on this. Lack of room is just a killer. Tonight I pulled the 2l out. One step closer to pulling the cab off the c notch chassis . At least with the motor and box out it will be a little lighter to push in and out of the garage. That's all the progress for now. So here's a boring pic for a boring build
    2 points
  33. Rounded the cones by hand, had some round pipe as a guide. Found there final spot and temporarily drilled into place to try with the seat. Made some hinges out of 5mm angle line, which will later be trimmed up, driled for counter sunk screws and zinc plated. Primed everything and welded into place. I've maxed out the adjustments to have the seat level with the floor with folded flat. The floor section will be color matched the van, and the upright will be painted black to break it up. Plug welded in place. Will be primed and painted orange. This the last mounting point to be made. It holds the upright in place when in the seating position and should lock in it so in an event of an emergency stop, it shouldn't fold forward. Looks like a big gap but this is the normal and there is no room for adjustment when folded flat. Thinking some post which would encase a locking mechanism like the below would be the go. I like the idea of pulling the seat up and clicking it into place, and having a release lever when needing to fold it flat. Any other ways of doing this? Needs to lock it in place, and support the back rest.
    2 points
  34. Making some more progress... Welded up these sill/b-pillar/dogleg sections as one Started hanging all of the doors with new hinge pins Need to throw some diesel in it so I can move it to strip the rest of the firewall and get the rest of the colour going.
    2 points
  35. Bushes replaced and the Valiant drives nicely again. One of my boys finished year 8 schooling, they have a formal and parents etc are invited to drop their kids off at in front of the school hall pre formal. The valiant beached quite loudly as I was turning onto the field which my son thought was fantastic. Good boy! He was very keen on some school field paddock work. I exercised the utmost restraint and no circles were done. Here's a pic of some previous grass silliness. I put the Superlites on for the school run. Then decided I didn't like them and took them off the next day. I'd quite like a set of these modernized Cheviot Quattro's but the budget won't stretch that far at the moment. anyway that's enough sharnes. I have done some productive stuff too. I got my big fuel tank re tested, blasted and painted. It's slightly larger in diameter and considerably longer than the old one. My calculations suggest it will hold about 20 Liters more fuel than previous which equates to about %30 more. Luckily I managed to fit it into the old tank straps which was a bonus and saved much fucking about. Old. New. I Need to sort out some new ducting as the tank has is designed for 60mm as opposed to 2 inch as before and I'll be ready to run. This tank has a little magnetic gauge sender unit that is miles different resistances to what the factory sender had. It looks fairly simple and I'd like to see about getting it changed so I can use my factory gauge. Has any one in ChCh delt with E Parrot and Sons since it has changed hands? Are Robinson instruments still around? Suggestions please.
    2 points
  36. And some photos to stick on the fridge
    2 points
  37. I'm pleased to announce this boat has successfully completed stringent reliability and performance trials including but not limited to... Shallow water performance Low speed maneuverability Higher speed spins and dicking around
    2 points
  38. A few months back I bought the 4 items in this link to make it all work https://yourdyno.com/shop/ - I had to wait a couple of weeks for it but it was perfect timing as they had just released their own eddy current power supply. After checking out his youtube and forums it seemed like a good option for a reasonable price. I then bolted some tie down points to the concrete, hooked the speed sensor up to the YourDyno controller and connected it to the laptop. I set it up for inertia mode with a moment of inertia number based on some weight calculations of the roller (educated guess for now). Strapped the trusty old NS250R to the roller and just eased into to things to get an idea of how it was all going. I popped it in 3rd and did a run right out to 10,000 rpm or so. This was a pretty epic moment for me honestly. Everything felt smooth and nothing looked out of place, so the next day I mucked about shimming bearings and coupling the retarder to the roller. Still in inertia mode, I strapped the paddock basher MX5 to the roller and did a test run in 3rd. Once again everything looked pretty good at this stage so I am very happy. Here's a video.
    2 points
  39. some markets seem to have them (canada in my experiance with not harleys) so may be just a special lever for them and everyone else just has to not start it in gear
    1 point
  40. yes that goes on a clutch switch (which are identical to a brake lever switch just a mirror image) your lever mount may have a little nub and a threadded hole underneath it. but why would you want a clutch starter lock out, worse than a sidestand switch
    1 point
  41. Burn off the other night went well. Got it to 500f and it held there for atleast 3 hours without adding any extra fuel. Left it going when I went to bed. Had a look in the morning and it looked like this... Emptied out the ash and gave it a good clean to prep it for seasoning and paint. Just used olive oil on the inside as that's all I had and Mangawhai shops are shit to go to this time of the year cause of all the jafas and northern bass homies.
    1 point
  42. The more I look at this thing, it never stops looking awkward as shit. Luckily you can't see much boat when you're sitting in it I guess. God its ugly.
    1 point
  43. Upper and lower racks sitting in place. Then set it up for it's first burn off to kill off any nasties from the paint and stripper. I added a few more similar size chunks of Manuka and got it cranking. So far it has been sitting at 500f for the last 2 and a half hours with no extra fuel. Seems to be going well enough for something that owes me about $130 and about 10hours. Yeah a Weber GA is only $150 but this is far more rewarding. I might give it another burn off tomorrow morning then I'll be seasoning it, throwing some paint on the outside then throwing in a rolled beef roast. Keep. As to see how it turns out. Will get a picture of the rotisserie tomorrow. Chur
    1 point
  44. Quick once over with the flapper disc. The inners were painted in what looked like a red oxide primer, being the inner I thought it would be best to use a relatively organic paint stripper (found an orange and alcohol based stripper at Bunnings). Turns out the paint stripper was average as, went over it 3 times and had to hand sand the shit out of it. It's done now... I also cut notches out of the grille mount for more cooking space. Looks way better though. And the El cheapo Bunnings thermo gauge mocked up.
    1 point
  45. The forward controls looked awesome, I figured someone must have done some kind of R&D on them, or at least tried them out, but whoever designed these was a fucktard!! Seriously, the shifter arm had its pivot center about 100mm behind the foot peg. The arm was only about 150mm long, so 150mm - 100mm = 50mm of room to squeeze your foot in. ○Basically you had to lift up with the shifter here. ○Then, you had to lift your entire foot off the peg and lift it up and over the shifter, put you entire foot on top of the shifter to shift down the gear, with no heel contact on the peg at all, your foot literally floating in thin air with only your toes sitting on top of the shifter as you brake and down shift!!! Most forward controls have the shifter share the same pivot centre as the foot peg. I checked all my measurements and think I can get away wwith moving them very close together, as the arm is quite long. Re engineering the mounts. Now it work more like this: Only the tip of your toes has to flip around the shifter, maintaining heel contact all the time on the footpeg. Much better, it actually works now. You can simply pivot your foot, maintaining contact with the foot peg and shift gears up or down, just like a real motorcycle should. I'm happy now, much better.
    1 point
  46. Bought a few m of marine carpet and glued it into the front hull and sides. Makes it look a bit tidier but also hoping it'll make the hull a bit quieter when on the water. Mounted in a new fire extinguisher, coz, you know, safety....
    1 point
  47. ^ So the repair-the-shaft trick didnt work out, still trying to track a decent one down. More body work... Finally done with the B-pillars, pain of a job but I couldnt justify the cost of repros. Still need to do the back doglegs but that can wait till I can align them with the tub. Got all of the paint off the tub (I prefer to use lots of stripper and minimal abbrasives), fliped it over and put it in the shed to work on. The bottom corners are pretty beat up and require some welding repairs. The alloy is nice to work with but it stretches so easily.... Really hate and dont want to do bog work. Will see what its like in epoxy and decide what I'm happy to accept.
    1 point
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