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  1. The ideal speed for machining something so large would probably be 50rpm or less. So I bought an old concrete mixer pulley off trademe (around 560mm) and a 50mm pulley for the 3/4hp electric motor I scored from work. This gave me about 130rpm. This worked pretty well at first as I machined off the high spots, but as time went on and the cuts became longer things got complicated. The carbide inserts were over heating and wearing out well before half a pass. I found a home built saw bench on facebook marketplace for cheap, which had some different size pulleys and a stand alone shaft with bearings, so I snapped it up. I then modified my original setup and managed to gear it down using the shaft from the saw bench with an isuzu crank pulley on the other end, to around 62rpm. The lower surface speed was much better but the tips were still wearing out before a full pass, and I was starting to fight some serious chatter. It became apparent that the linear rail support had some flex, causing the compound slide to tilt forward and spring back causing the chatter. I braced it up with some random offcuts which made a big difference. (The linear rails should have ideally been much further apart and properly supported) Still getting chatter, I added 30+ kg to the back of the compound slide. This was enough band-aiding to get me through to the end, without changing the whole thing completely. I also upgraded from a battery drill with a cable tied trigger to a Nema 34 stepper as I needed a much slower feed rate.
    23 points
  2. Background I'm a beginner to this whole thang, with nothing more than YT and a strong desire to use power tools to make something shiny and cool again. Half a year ago if someone told me in the future I'd be working on restoring a car... I'd either not believe them, or ask them for lotto numbers. Yet here I am. I saw this float on and off trademe for a few months before snaffling it up with an eye towards full or mostly-full restoration, then going where the wind takes us from there. I adore the look of these machines and the idea of breathing life into a sad old car really appeals to me for some reason - this thing already has a soul, and a much stronger connection than some rando import, and I've never driven it. So what is it? A 1983 Mitsubishi Starion GSR-X, automatic, top trim, all-original (what's left of it anyway), with a 2.0 G63B turbo engine. It was** driven into a garage 15~ years ago and the distributor and battery removed before the previous owner bought it to restore with his son. He didn't do anything more than turn the drive shaft and wipe the gunk from the ID plate before his son lost interest and it sat in his garage for another year. Then we bought it. My partner and I (which in practice so far means mostly me) plan to restore it slowly over the coming years as time and money permit. I'll just use 'I' going forward to make it easier. The state of it Here's a pre-anything walk-around. It has a lot of missing or broken stuff. The interior is in a right state with absolutely munted carpets (found some old KFC bones under a seat), super-dehydrated leather, tiny bits of missing trim, sun-bleached buttons etc. Fortunately some really important stuff is OK like the dashboard but the pluses are few and far between inside. Maybe most importantly, it doesn't smell. I suspect time is to blame for that (see chicken bones, full ash tray, evidence of mold, etc) The exterior is much the same, with surface rust spots, dents, minor collision damage in one corner, some broken or missing trim pieces, non-functioning boot latches, saggy bumper plastic, distressed window trim, missing driver's wing mirror (only had the one) and incredible amounts of bog. The engine has a couple hundred thousand km's on it and seems OK I guess. A couple of hoses could use replacing but nothing serious. The vacuum lines have had someone monkey with them at some point which is going to be a PITA to figure out - but I guess I didn't know what a vacuum line was a couple months ago so once again, patience and time. It seems like everything else is basically intact - most emissions stuff, A/C seems ok (can't test it yet obvs). It arrived with oil well-below the 'low' mark but the oil itself looks fine. The cooling system is 95% brown 5% water. There's evidence that some oil gaskets probably need replacing. Fine, fine. What isn't fine? Plenty, but I'll start with the biggest issue. They took the distributor out and put it on the passenger floor. Okay, whatever, google can help me fix. The problem: it's not the original distributor. There's no vacuum advance on it, I don't think it is for a turbo engine, and most importantly I have no idea where the connector hooks up to the wiring harness. I learned from a young age that square pegs don't go in round holes and I haven't found a square peg quite like the one on the dizzy. Okay, fine, google can help right? Maybe I can just get an old original one? Lol no. Google has not been my friend. I can find a million different replacement distributor caps, water pumps, blah blah but for some reason finding a solution for my problem has left me truly stumped. 1. Buy a new OEM one. Sure, but that's >$500 USD and I'd want to be very sure I know what I'm buying before I sink that - like do I want part #MD001631 or #MD066837? 2. Buy a salvaged, rebuilt or aftermarket one which specifically suits this engine. I'm cool with this, but... I can't find any. The closest I can get is stuff for a 2.6 G54BT (as a reminder I have a 2.0 G63BT) which supposedly is too short. 3. Buy a different but compatible engine's dizzy. How do I know what's compatible, and suitable for a turbo engine? For all that the internet holds I've found this to be surprisingly tricky to find any info on this sort of thing. 4. Decipher the secrets of the distributor I've been given and see if I can't just Make It Work™ for now - though I'll probably want to get something more suitable in the future. On this I am stumped. There's simply no place I can find that this thing can plug into. The best spot I've found has a round connector with 3 pins vs. the distributor's square connector with 4 pins. I'm really hoping I've just missed something obvious but my hope there is dim. I've spent the last couple of months entering endless google search terms and asking in fairly obscure places around the internet to no avail and this (aside from money) truly is my greatest blocker right now. I want to try and get the engine running, however poorly, before I get it out - partly because this the last chance to hear it for a while but mostly so that I know if I've broken something when reassembly time comes. So if anyone knows anything about wtf is going on please let me know because I'm going a bit crazy!
    14 points
  3. More of an update from the past weekend. I had a busy day ahead of me racing the Chariot and the AE86. The races were back to back, which required extra management and a good level of preparedness on my part. Qualifying went well. I laid down a 1.16.4 in the 86, which equalled my best ever time at Manfeild. The setup felt solid and a new set of tyres had the car feeling great! Unlike the test day on old tyres, which was more of a drift session . Here's me looking chuffed after qualifying on P2 for the first race: The first race went OK. I got a good jump off the line, was passed by a 500hp GTR before the first corner and had a great run for the first half of the lap. Then my temp gauge started flickering all over the place. I'd had a few cooling issues in testing, so decided it was smart to pit for a quick under bonnet check. I had no crew, but luckily am good friends with the Hogg family in garage 10, so they had a look in the engine bay, realised it was just a bad connection to the temp sender, reconnected it and sent me back out. The car was going great, and I went back out to set my personal best lap time of 1.15.9. I finished a lap down, but was stoked with the lap time. Race two was a very mixed bag. Had a good few laps and was having a good battle with a fast 350z and Mustang. Managed to pass the Mustang back around turn 7, he jumped me on the straight at the start of the final lap. I attempted to pass him back under brakes, but the 350z driver decided he'd be able to pass both of us under brakes.... on the grass... This resulted in contact, which spun me around and left a big dent in my RR 1/4 and door... I was not a happy chappy. Ouch! It felt much worse at the time and I was expecting a bent diff and ruined rear panels. We jacked it up and everything seemed in order, so I was able to get out for the final race. Race 2 full footage: The final race was good. Track conditions were a bit hotter, so the car didn't come on as well as the previous races. The Mustang spun in front of me on lap 2 and threw gravel all over the track. This made for an interesting run through the esses for the rest of the race! It's a shame about the panel damage, but the door still opens and closes and it shouldn't be too hard to pull most of the damage out. I'm hopeful that we'll be able to get it sorted for the second round in January. I guess the exterior tidy up and fibreglass door upgrade has now jumped up the list... it's going to be a busy Christmas!
    11 points
  4. well, after a very long day in which the gun blocked multiple times and i poured 500 mils of paint all over the bench i finally got a sealer coat on the car. the drivers side isn't done yet, ill turn the car around and do that tomorrow. now the fun job of sanding can begin 2020-12-06_05-31-17 by sheepers, on Flickr
    9 points
  5. So did Raglan ride a few months back, was awesome. Then got all prepped for Te Ureweras but had to pull the pin unfortunately. So jumped at the chance to hit the 42nd traverse this weekend. Such a trooper, drowned it in the river once and couldn't quite make it up one steep bit without a little bit of foot assistance but otherwise dunno why the others bothered with big bikes!
    8 points
  6. This weekend was good and bad. The good is i set a new PB lap time and got some great seat time. The bad is that I took some damage in the second race. I'll explain more later. Fastest lap: 1.15.9 And the crash:
    8 points
  7. 7 points
  8. So bit of a better update for those following. Firstly, the exhaust manifold. Let me start by saying unlike just about every other build I have seen recently people seem to be chasing big HP numbers. That was never the intention of this build, I am trying to attempt to build a responsive fun daily car that I can throw around a track at a club day with mates. Not looking to win any races or smoke too many tires although it does a reasonable job of that at the moment. So the exhaust manifold. I picked up the Sinco manifold a few months ago since it was something on the list but lack of research has meant I have had to replace it with another. The one I brought was a T3 flange with a 45mm external wastegate. I really wanted to put a gen2 garrett turbo on however the smallest Gen2 T3 flange was a 3071 which I deemed to big for my application. Instead I wanted to put a more modest 2867 which meets my power goals with enough up its sleeve to keep me in the efficiency range of the turbo. This is where the manifold now longer suits. The 28 frame garrett only has a T2x flange or a 2.5" Vband to attach to the manifold. To add to the this if you opt for the T2 flange you have to run the internal wastegate. Since Sinco dont do a 2.5" Vband on there manifolds it meant to stick with Sinco I have had to stay with the T2 flange and internal wastegate. For ease of installation I have gone down this road. So, now that I had made up my mind I brought the turbo and figured a turbosmart actuator will give me reasonable boost control for my mild street build. Next on the list was to sort the intake manifold pictured above. The first step was put the IAT sensor into the intercooler pipe rather than at the back of the intake manifold. This was the original location, simply tapped the sensor into the 3mm aluminium. Punched holes were drilled out for the new vacuum boss. Then since I moved the vacuum lines to under the intake I had to do something about the horrid assortment of once again tapped holes in the end of the intake. (SAD FACE) After. And lastly the borage or issues that surrounded the throttle body. Mainly the fact that it didn't sit flush to the surface as mentioned in the post above with the other little issues. I had my good mate Shannon at PRO CNC Ltd knock me out a new flange complete with o'ring seal machined in. And another addition to my wiring tools I was stoked to get a nice new stop for my wire strippers. By eye is one thing, repeatable it awesome.
    7 points
  9. Fresh 035 white paint. Just been peeling the shitty old tape off side moldings before they go back on.
    6 points
  10. Got my struts back from getting modified to suit the MK1 golf inserts. He ended having to remove the spring perch and weld it back on to cut enough out. Very happy with the job though. Also got the carpet in and trimmed to suit. Not 100% happy with how it sits, but hopefully it will settle a bit.
    6 points
  11. Right, so a couple of months pass with little finicky wiring stuff being done, and the last of the fab work done. A big V mount set up wasn't in the budget, so Jon made new pipework to run from the GReddy elbow to the existing GReddy cooler, and welded an elbow to the turbo outlet to make a fairly short straight shot into the cooler. Now with the power figure I had in mind, a measly 3" exhaust would never do. So we made the call to go 4" the whole way - 3.5" outlet off the turbine housing necks up to 4" as quickly as it could physically fit It runs into a 4" Adrenalin R centre muffler, then back to the existing 4" section (Which actually turned out to be like 96mm, weird) with the Apexi muffler. https://imgur.com/0i3fcX6 Nice and tucked up, heaps of clearance! Now it was ready for the first start up https://imgur.com/h0DfDBE Naturally, it fired up super easily, even with the base tune on the Link. A little more fettling and it was time to hit the dyno!
    6 points
  12. And a good opportunity to test my new linisher, see what its appetite for eating steel is like. Yip, it loves it!
    4 points
  13. Today's job was bolt all the steering in and check bump steer Holy shit it was terrible. I've never actually bolted it all together with this combo. First check was over 70mm. Mucked around with different combos of tie rod ends and rod ends for hours and found the combo I have wont work so I I've ordered some different balljoints, the american balljoint has a slightly longer steering arm and the bit where the tie rod end bolts on is slightly higher. I was trying to use the aussie balljoint for quicker steering, my vg had needed a lower outer pivot to fix the bumpsteer so I was hoping this would be the same, but it appears to need the opposite. it looks like the ideal pivot center is right where the arm is
    4 points
  14. Finished off stripping back the old seal and paint ready for epoxy and stone chip. I’m going to make up an old school polished stainless firewall like we used to run in the eighties so made up the template today. cant wait to get this sprayed and back on its suspension.
    4 points
  15. And shes back home again.. a year later than expected but better late than never. Snapped an axle at drag day 2018 and been in storage since then. AA plus membership makes moving cars very easy would trade again. Ahh yep thatll do it. Plans now are to swap the diff over with my spare.. which will mean the wheels will poke out 20mm more, raise the car slightly so its atleast legal height. The rear leaves have been reset twice so they dont work as they are intended too. I've got a spare set of leaf springs so I'll add one in to stiffen up and lower to required height using lowering blocks.
    3 points
  16. Well the last few days has been a bit emotional and busy. Did the last few tidy up jobs on the housetruck and added a few little features we had always intended to but never got around to (typical..) Main thing we added was a bit of decking on the roof. This serves a few purposes. The black butynol roofing gets fucking hot in summer, too hot to stand on. Not ideal for insulation or bare feet. It also gets a bit grubby = messy feet or shoes marking the floor or carpets. Plus the plywood roof is 12mm which is strong but still springy to walk on between the rafters. The decking is sat on runners above the rafters so now feels solid as. We got rid of the ugly old temporary pop out roof sheets of alloy that we'd put up after fixing the roofs and fitted new thicker shiny alloy with proper edgings. Also added gutters so now the rain wont run down the side of the popouts. So the last few days we emptied out all our stuff and moved it into the mezzanine or the cabin. Quite amazed at how much stuff we had collected and stashed away in the truck! Then a final clean up and moved the truck down into the yard. Ran it up hot and did an oil change. Took a few more pics of it. Here's one with Minky the Micra for scale... Then drove it to its new home. Luckily only 10 minutes away! We had to cut back loads of trees to get it down their driveway. The owners taking heaps of photos as we went. Finally parked it up... It wont stay in this spot for good. The young family that will be moving in are in isolation having just got back to NZ. In two weeks time I'll be popping round to run them through the ins and outs, packing it up for travel and setting it up etc. We'll go for a brief drive too so they can have a feel of what its like to drive. Then we'll set it up in its new home spot proper. But for now that's where it is. Hannah and I had a cup of tea and said bye bye to our reliable, comfortable, safe and cosy home of almost the last 9 years or so... Yes we are sad to see it go because its our home that we built. But also really excited because its another step in life. We can finish the mezzanine now, build a garage, do some other little projects but most exciting is we also get to build another housetruck! We left the truck went to the local cafe/bar and had a pint with local friends - where word throughout the village that we had sold the housetruck was already well out there. Suitably fizzed up on beer we walked home on a warm evening and discussed our next housetruck build... So that is this thread finished. Its been a great journey and I'm sure its entertained a fair few. I'm hoping its inspired many to try out this housing and lifestyle and also been a useful source of ideas, tips, designs and lessons for those who were already building or about to build a housetruck. I'll be back with another thread soon for what will be our 4th housetruck build (excluding a few vans along the way) As always we've learned loads of things and look forward to using the lessons learned and ideas gained for the next build We have both already been checking out the usual places for a suitable truck. Fun times! Alex
    3 points
  17. Courtesy of the US postal service. Stamped metal license plate...America, fuck yeah!
    2 points
  18. How do you do this without getting paint on everything in/on/around your shed?
    2 points
  19. The ones we run are 28mm. I think we’ve had one faulty float out of like 6 carbs. They’re pretty good for ~$30
    2 points
  20. what a see you next tuesday who crashed into you - was he apologetic? seems he ran out of talent and you paid for that.
    2 points
  21. Prior to Te Urewera ride, Adv50 got stripped down for a tidy up after the frame started to get REALLY bad surface rust and and some other bits needed attention. Got the frame and that back from my friendly painter and started reassembly. Got another set of second had forks to replace the ones on it that were bent and a few other new bits. @Kass came through and upholstered / refoamed my seat base for me. Diamond stitching and it fits the tank very well! Completed Te Urewera ride again no worries. didnt even have to refuel each day. Trouble free motoring. Time for a clean, and maybe a suspension upgrade for next year.
    2 points
  22. Bolting clean painted parts on with new bolts is satisfying
    2 points
  23. While I was fabricating the roller, I visited a bunch of engineers in the region and found that no one had a lathe big enough to machine it. Bugger. After getting some quotes from further abroad that would have blown my entire budget by themselves (15-20k). I decided that I'd just build my own lathe.. I jumped onto Ebay and ordered the cheapest set of linear rails I could find, including the ball screw and bearing blocks. 3-4 weeks later I got set to mocking up the "lathe" using the compound slide from my Stanko mounted to some adapters. Spinning the roll by hand with the compound slide clamped to the linear rail, I took the first test cut. "Fuuck yeah, this'll work" I said.. It would have taken forever to machine the 3mm x 25mm weld bead off, but I remember once when @kpr mounted his angle grinder in the lathe to cut through some hardening on a set of axles from memory? (that image is burnt into my mind, probably thinking it might be a useful trick one day. cheers dude!) The grinder worked really well and made short work of it. Spinning the ball screw with a battery drill.
    2 points
  24. forgot to mention, a supercharged 1UZ pulling hard at 7200RPM sounds pretty ace.
    2 points
  25. Great news today. Had the compliance guy inspect the car from top to bottom. He was happy with everything and said go ahead and seal it up and paint it. He wants to see it all back together for the next check and then the last one is taking it for test drives and brake checks. So I was pretty stoked with that.
    2 points
  26. Almost 2 years ago a chassis dyno popped up for sale on TradeMe with a starting price of 15k - I was immediately interested (after looking for quite some time) - so I called the owner to get some information on it. It turned out to be an old Vane 4000 bed with a Telma cc130 retarder, which had been upgraded to modern DTec data acquisition and brake control. Sweet! After talking to the seller for a while I got the impression it was rather traction limited with its smooth, small diameter rollers. It also sounded like the DTec wasn't that great at steady state retarder control. I threw in an autobid of 17k (my entire savings) and lost.. But over the couple of weeks that the auction was held, I got to thinking that maybe I could make a dyno for similar money? Google led me on a path to some pretty cool DIY dyno builds.. I thought, if they can do it, why can't I? - The only difference is that I'm not an engineer at all, bar 3 years of light fabrication work and the skills I'd acquired working on cars as a hobby. So after losing the auction I rang around truck and bus wreckers with no luck finding an eddy current retarder. Damn! - After a few weeks of hunting I found a Telma AC83-00 on Ebay in the UK which was a couple of decades old, but still new in the box. The quotes were quite horrendous at first to get it to NZ but with a very helpful seller who also sold the retarder to me for much cheaper than his listed price, the deal was done. I was pretty stressed for a few months as I had just sent a big chunk of money to a random bloke in the UK with no tracking and no contact with the shipping company - but 3 months later it finally arrived. You know that feeling you get when you buy a cool new car? This was almost better than that. 390kg potential paper weight...
    1 point
  27. So does the other party just get to continue in the race series after pulling a stunt like that? To not even apologise is a clear indicator they are fucked in the head, but it surely can't be good to have people like that in the series?
    1 point
  28. His Integra broke in the morning, so his father kindly loaned him the central muscle car for the rest of the day.
    1 point
  29. Unfortunately this is the risk of racing. The guy didn't have the talent to match his machinery, but that's how it goes sometimes! Thanks! There's a few improvements to make, mostly in the brakes, so it might get quicker by the end of the season. The other driver assumed they could out brake both of us into turn 1. He could have avoided the incident by moving left, but instead opted to take to the grass... grass isn't very grippy! I cut the video just as the adrenalin wore off and the fucks came out. I could've possibly avoided it by leaving him space to straight line the corner, but it was his responsibility attempt to pass safely. In which case he might have hit the (borrowed) Mustang and caused a 3 car incident.
    1 point
  30. I had been browsing Instagram and found a picture of a Dax built by Cheetah Custom cycles in Japan that got me fizzing. Being invited to dirtmasters was the kick in the pants I needed, initially assembled with Suzuki A50 forks and the CT90 rear end. then Andrew ( @GuyWithAviators ) swapped me most of a Lifan wave for a box of Purple Goannas, and with some engineering magic by @Geophy and @sentra I was able to fit the swing arm, and combine the A50 and wave forks together and get them all mounted to the bike. @MopedNZ got the rear brake bled and custom painted the wheels. This combined effort by the GCs above resulted in us winning 2 of our 3 races at dirtmasters and this super sweet build coming together. Now dirtmasters is over, next step is clean, strip back down, slap some paint on it and make a seat base, but not before the CB360 is woffed.
    1 point
  31. Tiny update, but one nevertheless Painted up my $250 rx2 steering wheel, it was sun faded and cracked, filled the cracks with resin. Colour not quite the same as original, but I dont care, beats paying $2k like others do, painted the gear knob to match, and got a repro shift pattern badge to suit.
    1 point
  32. Yeah that works good. Apart from one bolt that didnt want to go in its home it was a piece of cake.
    1 point
  33. that looks like a thing that might work. but you're right, burnouts might be compromised and we cant have that.
    1 point
  34. Panel beating done last weekend and most of car in primer. So good to get rid of the trolley dents from daily use when I first purchased. Took it through vtnz pink sticker inspection as it sits above. Failed on wiper blades, headlight high beam angle too low and certification required for suspension. Paint booked in for next week and hopefully cert man can see me before end of year
    1 point
  35. and yip, then i painted it. now got the back of the boot lid and the boot seal area to finish and i can start priming the outside. 2020-11-17_08-09-25 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-11-17_08-09-18 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-11-17_08-09-11 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  36. I talked to Egmont industrial supply who I had bought my lathe off previously, because I remembered they had stock of large diameter pipe in various sizes. After telling them I was making a roller, they said they could also supply end plates and shaft to suit. Mint! Fast forward a few weeks and this lot showed up. 2.1m of 762mm x 12.7mm culvert pipe, end caps, center plate and 70mm shaft. The reason for the large roller is due to the RPM limit of the retarder as explained in my previous post. One benefit to this though, is better traction than small rollers due to the increased contact patch, which also reduces stress on the tyre. It turns out that culvert pipe is hugely out of round. But that's nothing that a couple of dodgy 20t bottle jacks and some wood can't fix though!
    1 point
  37. rinse repeat for the other side. 2020-11-16_07-25-21 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  38. i've pretty much removed all the shitty non stuck red from the car. i need to tidy up a few bits before i can think about putting primer on it but im pretty close. this is very weird, every car i've ever painted needed months and months of rust repairs and panel work before the primer tin comes out of the cupboard but not this time. i have found three dents in it that have been filled with bog without event the slightest attempt to remove them so ill fix those. i also found a whole bunch of bog on the front left corner, which i removed to find absolutely nothing wrong with the steel underneath. like, nothing, its the correct shape, no dents, no rust, nothing. it just had bog on it. not sure what to do next, i need to take the screens out and fix two 5mm holes i found but there isn't any other rust that needs fixing that i've found so far. as i say, this is all a bit weird, im not sure how to proceed. 2020-11-01_05-57-24 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-11-01_05-57-32 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  39. gettin more done. front guard was silver at some point. has a smack in the front corner which was never even tried to be fixed, just fill it with bog. so i go that out and its pretty good now. ill keep removing the crap paint to get it down to factory red/primer. then i guess ill chuck some epoxy primer on it. 2020-10-29_09-41-33 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  40. the symptoms you describe are classic leaking crank seal type shit, thats why im thinking it might be that. does it have a breather in the crank case? you could put a bolt in it so it cant suck in from the crankcase and that might tell you if the seals are shit. classic scooter trick that one, crank seal fucks out, chuck a bolt in the breather and your good to go (a short distance before it shits itself properly)
    1 point
  41. Intentionally overlooking the update surrounding the -an conversion for the cooling system as I have struck a problem. I am currently looking at options to get the top hose to fit in the limited space I have available. Will update this aspect of the build once it is finalized and I actually have a solution.Focus recently has been to get the intake manifold sorted, it was a custom fabricated item that was on the car when I first purchased the car. Looks good but in practice it has some issues.Firstly, there is not a single boss welded on this manifold. Instead they opted to tap the 3mm alloy to attached the IAT, vacuum lines and throttle body. Will discuss one at a time.1/ IAT. As noted in the previous posts it was right at the back of the intake manifold on the underside, not an ideal spot so I have had a boss welded on my intercooler pipe right before the throttle body. Win. However this now leaves a hole in the intake manifold. Plan is to weld a boss on from EFI Solutions in Australia which will give me a series of vacuum lines so I can get that side of things sorted. Aiming to convert all vacuum lines to push-lok fittings to keep things easily maintained.2/ Existing vacuum lines, now that I have a new location tucked under the intake manifold for these to come out from I need to weld over the back of the intake manifold. It was a mess! Once parts arrive to weld on I will update with finished pics. For now this is what it looks like.3/ Throttle body. Now this has a number of more serious issues which have arisen over the few years I have had this car. Now that I have stripped it all down it is apparent where they come from. Firstly the mounting of the throttle body to the intake manifold. Again no Boss used, BUT the surface of the manifold is not even flat. It would seem they made the end plate for the intake to suit the throttle body then welded it on with no consideration of the weld lifting the throttle body itself. This has created a leak at the two lower bolt heads as seen in these pics.Not the end of the world. But I am having a new adaptor plate machined so that it can be welded on the intake and will also incorporate a o-ring seal between the adaptor and throttle body. Pics when it is made and on to follow.The more serious issues, the throttle butterfly could move almost 10° without the throttle being pressed. This resulted in the car revving upto 3500RPM when stopping at lights or even on deceleration it continued to rev. Not ideal.Turns out it was the cap screw on the right of this picture. The head has bottomed out on the throttle linkage and hasn't even threaded far enough to hold the shaft the butterfly attaches to. Fixed, proper fitting grub screw that is fully secure. Maximum satisfaction.Next was the TPS, it was also held on with cap screws that had a head too small to locate it where it was supposed to be. When the car was dyno'd the first time my tuner @ross discovered the problem where the TPS was bottoming out on the underside on the throttle body housing resulting in the tps staying a WOT. (clearly this leads to some excitement when you climb up the car then jump off the pedal only to find it isn't slowing at all) Correct hardware securely fixed and the problem is solved.Proper hardware for those two fixes owes me a grand total of around 0.35cents. Hard to believe you wouldnt fix those at the beginning.So once the boss parts arrive I will have them welded on and update intake progress. For now I have an engine crane on loan to remove the engine and gearbox ready for the engine bay overhaul.
    1 point
  42. got new brake parts and hoses and put the new diff in the car. cant get new disks in NZ so ive got a pair coming from Auz, they aren't here yet so ill use the old ones until they turn up. i used the original center section as the spare that came with the disk brake diff had rust on the gear teeth. got it all assembled and mounted up. i cut the panhard bar to suit the new setup but i got the measurement wrong so i need to cut another 5mm out of it. not shown is the new swaybar which is now all fitted up with new brackets on the chassis that i made today. next is get tyres changed over and put new wheels on. 2020-10-17_04-57-34 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  43. Some of them don't have a spring. That's why there's no hole
    1 point
  44. hey whats the go with brake calipers without dust boots. is this verboten?
    1 point
  45. Still going strong, did the Raglan ride a few weeks back, and other than my sub-par piloting ability, it went well. Then chucked a knobbly on the back and went bush with some fellow likeminded souls and spent a weekend in the forest. Took inappropriate bikes on inappropriate tracks and it was a blast. Other than drowning it in a mudhole, it came out pretty good.
    1 point
  46. Wheels. They came powder coated black but I wanted a full glossy look to them so I painted them.
    1 point
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