Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/22/20 in all areas

  1. Long time no update, unemployed life has got me busier than ever. I’ll start where we left off and chuck up what little photos I took along the way finished the sump, no photos of rubber flappy baffles bat it’s all in there. Ended up with an extra 200ml of volume and a sump that’s above the crossmember so a bash plate can be fitted(yet to make) Before the engine got thrown back in I tidied up the wheel tubs and the recessed firewall Had to do the clutch as dual mass flywheels aren’t ideal. Let alone when there is 30°-40° of slack in the stock flywheel. Aftermarket single mass setup was a fuck around as the flywheel didn’t seat on the crank properly. Anyway sorted that out and fired the engine in the hole. Mocked up the rear of the headers. Before sending it down to Stu at Precision Wiring Solutions. let’s just say, he’s an absolute wizard and worth every penny. Factory ecu and speedo cluster were reverse engineered to make everything work. Only thing we couldn’t do was the fuel guage so just used a vdo sender and guage. We got the engine fired up while it was there and checked everything over. sorted the fuel tank to run the factory pump in a surge tank setup which it a part of the main tank to minimise lines used, and just a high flow low pressure vdo lift pump feeding the main pump got the rear wheel tubs all welded in and tidied up I managed to talk mike Shaw into knocking out an n2 kit so that was promptly fitted moments after getting home from collecting it And then there is the plethora of other jobs required to get the the car to the point where the car can be “safely” Driven . Having the power company cut the power to replace poles from 9am-3pm the day before you’re meant to be on track puts a spanner in the works, none the less. My ambitious nature got there in the end! Tux chucked a vid together as we managed a bit of an Oldschool takeover at the cjc jerkfest day all in all the car went bloody well for a first outing. So much fun to drive and so snappy. Need to get the brakes working better, hydro actually working and new coils to hopefully fix the random hesitation from the motor that seems to happen at the sketchiest of times. plans? Well getting my life sorted out after taking redundancy from fonterra. Get all my stuff (shit) into a container to clear the workshop ready for fabrication and customer work. It will be on the back burner for a while until business is up and running, then I can sort the odds and sodds on this and give it a lick of paint!
    12 points
  2. Hah very cool! Never heard of Ultem 1010 before. In other news, I've heard rumours but never seen it done till now. Look how well a 2ZZ fits in these. Glorious!
    8 points
  3. Organising long term projects and parts Got a lucky streak as @AE25 knew a guy that worked for a company that needed to clear out their old shelving. It's amazing how much stuff you can fit in a 40ft high cube
    8 points
  4. (continued from previous post today) Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - RHS floorpan fabrication completed. Finishing up the story today by adding the two lateral straps underfloor and two longitudinal stiffeners in the front section. Tuned up the loose inboard edges a bit where the corrugations will continue over the trans tunnel. Cut up bits and welded in. Small but rather time consuming to fiddle with making fit and weld. Tacks and more tacks. Repeat six places. Then add all the underside straps, do another fit check in the car and take lots of pics. It's all fitting up quite well now. Very pleased with it. Permanent weld assembly of the floor parts and floor to car are to take place quite a bit later after scratch fabricating the outer sill, A-post, repair B-post, Dogleg and anything else needed to do a fit check with doors mounted. Oh and the door hinges need rebuilding. On the table slated for work next. These are the three segments destined to be the outer sill (old A-post in background). They have been sitting half complete for about two years now. Time to get er done! Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    6 points
  5. Hopefully you can read this.
    5 points
  6. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - RHS floorpan fabrication completion. More progress on the Bluebird RHS floorpan. I've done a lot of work. Started by fully welding up the tacked up butt weld joints shown previously. Used mostly MIG process (tack, tack, tack and grind excess). Then used a large piece of cardboard to rough out the edge trim contour. Got it relatively close and then rolled a large washer with a marker on the ID to get the contour line against the tunnel. Final trimmed shape of the cardboard. Set the it on the pan and trimmed it. Left a uniform amount of excess to transition with a fillet against the tunnel. Blended the edge end of corrugations flat by making a couple cuts on each, pounding flat and welding. Then made a 90 degree flange to mate with the inner sill plate. The beat and rolled the tunnel edge into a fillet with hammer and dolly. Then did a somewhat successful first rough trial fit. Looks ok from a distance but up close it needs more finesse. Formed some stiffening bumps, same as factory floor, with homemade tools of plywood (male/female blocks), chuck of plastic pipe, deep socket and a big hammer. The forming process pulled in some adjacent metal on the ramps which were easily panel beaten back to shape. Cleaned up the hat section underside support that was salvaged and temporarily attached it. First with some Clecos, then later on used Teks. Wrong application for regular low tension Clecos due to the undulating contour and minor mismatch. Pounded in some depressions for the two body mount bolt locations. Also attached the stub at the extreme forward end to mate with the toe board. Running out of the allotted pic upload limit. More soon with repairs to the salvaged seat support bracket and other parts/stuff. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    4 points
  7. So I’ve been chipping away over the past weeks. So much done but still so much to do! Managed to get the whole rear end dialed Just need to cap the upper arm boxes (can’t decide if I should make removable or just weld them on) Caliper brackets made and calipers mounted Made a start on the sump as the factory lower pan would have sat 40mm lower than the crossmember made an intake pipe by stretching a 3” tube over a 3”-5” sch40 reducer. Bit of grease and the press did the job Trying to decide header layout also Fixing up some back yard rust repairs, it’s only a seat time car but you gott make it look good atleast once So I’m getting there slowly. Going to try get fuel tank/lines in and dump done by next week as the loom should be ready to put in then. Will be good to fire it up. with only 5 days left of regular employment, the aim is to get this completed before my nomadic stint in the bush over summer
    4 points
  8. (continued from previous post today) Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - RHS floorpan fabrication completed. Started work on this rusty old RHS seat support bracket. Salvage it with repair? Replace it? Make a new one? Chose to cut the rusty half off and salvage it. Made a sketch and got to work on the base using 2 mil thick steel. Easy to weld with a TIG compared to the thin stuff at least! The rest follows naturally and was a fun mini project. Tacked the new base half on with a MIG, filled in with small pieces on the ends and then TIG welded it the rest of the way. After trim of excess and smoothing the edges a bit. I had an existing hole on the top salvaged half rail that was not original and plugged it. Turned out ok with some of the weld in the fillet left unground. The seat bracket In its future location. The Clecos in the background btw were just an experiment and I used Teks instead for temp assembly as noted in prior post. I'll make third post tonight and wrap it up. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    3 points
  9. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/77978-pediigrus-83-nissan-skyline-coupe-khr30/ Hey all, I'm pretty new around here but I've been in the old skyline scene for awhile. Most people know me for my 1986 Nissan Skyline Passage GT but I have a small habit for collecting hardtops cars as well. Earlier in the year I finally managed to pick up a KHR30 L20ET Coupe which has GT-ES Badges but I believe is actually a GT-EX. As you can see it's had a bit of a hard life so far. Overall it's in average condition. The interior when i got it was half put in with the roof liner ripped and closer than the ground than on the actual roof. When i first picked it up she didn't drive. Would just turn over and never start so I had to trailer it down from Napier to Wellington. The interior wasn't actually in to bad shape although it'll definitely need a proper cleanup in the future. None of he windows worked and the alternator was also cooked. The engine bay was an absolute rats nest of vac lines, loom and coil leads and just overall mess. Who knows what sort of rust is hiding underneath as well. Whilst the intercooler was a nice addition it doesn't help much when the L20et doesn't actually run. The car is an 83 pre-facelift with facelift bumpers on it which don't fit properly so I'll have to find the rest of the facelift parts or fork out the small fortune for an iron mask front end. The plan for the o girl is give her a good old tidy up and fix some of the classic RFB additions that have been made. Just looking at these pictures alone i can see there's going to be a fair wack of rust work that I've got to do, some panel and paint work, and then the engine. I'm planning to keep the L20et in it and rebuild it up for roughly 200hp. Not sure if I'll get there or not yet though. Next steps are stripping it down and find out what sort of rust is hiding under the car and panels and interior. I'll repaint it the factory white and most likely wrap the bottom half of the car silver to make it a bit unique. Hope at least someone finds watching my pain and suffering enjoyable as I strip this thing apart. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/77978-pediigrus-83-nissan-skyline-coupe-khr30/
    2 points
  10. I think "goez hard 4 wot it iz" is a good description for last night Small turnout but great sharns, great burgers and great machines Going to do my best to make it to these more regularly and hope it picks up to it's former glory. Good to know that even if it doesn't pack out it's still a really good night out
    2 points
  11. Hooray! Best result in a while...
    2 points
  12. So here we are today. I've pulled mostly everything off the engine. I have the exhaust out and driveshaft out. And I'm planning to remove the gearbox today or tomorrow and then last the engine. I'll repaint the whole bay whilst i have everything out and just give the whole thing a general tidy up. The intercooler piping was horrible and I'm going to be putting in a new front mount intercooler and radiator and tossing up the idea of putting an oil cooler in as well whilst everything is apart. Unfortunately I still don't have access to a garage so keeping track of everything is a bit of a mission. I also worked out why it sounded like a hair drier and I'm surprised it was even making boost. there was a stud missing on the intake manifold and the turbo had pieces of metal all through it and in the intercooler intake piping. Here's a pic of the old l20 turbo versus the new 25det one that is going in. I'm also going to be putting in a new fuel pump at the same time as well as relocating AFM, tightening the AFM spring and putting new injectors in. I'll also be cleaning up the intake manifold and removing the rest of the EGR system that's left. Hopefully the next update will be the engine and transmission out and the bay being prepped for paint and the engine work being done.
    2 points
  13. 2020-10-20_08-24-38 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-10-20_08-24-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-10-20_08-24-21 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-10-20_08-24-08 by sheepers, on Flickr
    2 points
  14. Got some wheels with shitty tyres for cheap 14x5.5, hopefully they're light. I've been working on the tune a bit more and I think I'm about there with the full throttle stuff. Since I'm rev limited I've printed some longer trumpets with correct bolt spacing for Silvertop trumpets. So far so good, will maybe go a little longer again as I've still got a bit of space. I'll reprint the manifold and trumpets in black later on though so they dont stick out like dogs balls in a dirty engine bay haha. Next time I'll carbon wrap the manifold part as although it's survived fine so far I'm still a bit nervous about it breaking. Trumpets will be fine but might make some out of just carbon later on maybe. I ended up smashing a whole heap more ignition timing into it and it's loved it. It's made it way punchier on/off the throttle. It's now lots of fun to drive aggressively, and downshifts are great with a dab of throttle. No knocking on 98 even when it's well past MBT. At cruising because there's so much throttle area and it needs so little hp to trundle along. It felt like the cruising powerband is all stuffed into the tiniest amount of throttle movement with the quads. So to try span this out a bit I've made it run progressively leaner more towards zero throttle and also added a lot more cam advance everywhere at part throttle. This way it likes staying with the throttle a bit more open for the same amount of air coming in, so it's a bit less twitchy. I took it on a drive today to Tokoroa and back for a work trip and got somewhere around 4.6l/100km give or take. Not 100% accurate but it would be within say 10% plus or minus. I've been learning a fair bit by spending some time tuning Alpha N and ITB setup for the first time properly. Its been fun. Firstly doort noises are about 95% dependent on cam overlap. More overlap = more noise pretty much! Retard the came and doorts go away. I think this explains why some people have fitted ITB and been disappointed by the lack of noise from them. It's a remarkable difference, especially at part throttle. Its also been interesting observing how ignition timing and cam timing both seem to work together more than I expected. I guess if you have conservative ignition timing, the gas is still expanding when it's being pushed out of the exhaust and lingering in the cyl. So if you have cam overlap it's going to try push out the intake as well. So it limits the amount of fresh air that can come in. But then if you advance the ignition timing, you get this happening less. So you can have more overlap without downsides. And god, isnt this thread just awful without any doort noises to go with it. Will get onto it haha
    2 points
  15. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - RHS floorpan fabrication started. Made some more custom corrugated floorpan tin last weekend. Started fab work on the RHS floorpan. It's a scratch build like everything else, Started with a 26 by 56 inch 20g blank sheet providing excess material all around as with the LHS. Bead rolled it to duplicate the original Datsun Bluebird 310 pattern. Two wide beads in the center underneath the front seat, five beads in the front footwell spaced at an 80mm pitch and four beads in the rear footwell again spaced at 80mm pitch. Eleven beads total. Takes two separate offset beads to combine and make one full bead. Three progressive runs for each formed offset. That's a total of 66 runs through the bead roller machine. Oh, and three people to support and guide the blank, me and two patient family volunteers. Upper side. Underside. I'm trying to improve it over the LHS floorpan build. I used a different set of dies compared to the previously completed LHS pan to more closely match the factory formed fillet radii. Used these rounded tipping dies in an offset mode instead of joggle dies. Offset the rounded dies like this just not quite that deep. Ran the blank through the machine in three progressively deeper steps for each half of an offset or large joggle type bead. Instead of using these joggle dies (below), as used on the LHS pan. The joggle dies have too small of edge radii, which tend to leave knife edge indentations in the metal. Results were a near perfect match to the original factory formed stiffening beads in shape, depth and locations. What i used to take some of my measurements from after scraping the old underseal off. Bottom side was used for measuring, using a flexible tailor's tape, since the top side is too heavily cratered. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    2 points
  16. So I took a week or so off work going into level 3 lock down. Yay, get heaps done! Well nah, a lack of motivation turned up, kicked me in the dick and wasted most of my time off staring blankly at all of the things in the garage and around the house that needed attention. anyway I managed to get some things done all be it at a snails pace Up on stands so I can get all the rear end fab done. Will probably make rear section of the exhaust while I’m there and get the fuel tank made and installed. back to work tonight so I’ll bugger around and get the laser cutting drawings sent off to hopefully collect in around a weeks time. Hopefully it all goes together quickly. wiring man is happy to use stock ecu and engine loom so this will keep costs down. also scored bucket seats and harnesses for a steal so stoked about that
    2 points
  17. lockdown has kept me busy. Transferred all the suspension from 1vaknd Kp across to the hack rack pushed foward 24mm, drivers mount moved in to better accommodate the 3s engine mounts (solid) Ke70 rack and pinion fitted to the Kp housing and trimmed the rack side flanges for boot clearance need to re build inner tubs for clearance building clearance for max low and can adjust height according to spring rates and travel Waiting for laser cutters to open up so I can get the upper link mounts cut and finalise the driveshaft tunnel So many wires, sorting loom arrangement so it can be all sent away and made to work, gearbox tunnel and firewall waiting on sheet metal to complete
    2 points
  18. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - Painting the insides of the inner and outer sill and welding them into the car. Metal cleaned, etched and zinc oxide conditioned. Epoxy primed inner sill. Epoxy primed outer sill. Ready for plug welding. Doors getting in the way. I'd left them on for keeping a check on fit and gaps. . Made dozens of plug welds to attach inner and outer sill together and then went to work on the B pillar base and ends of sill. It's always a lot of fun to weld stuff shooting the wire feed straight up while laying on your back. Clamp and weld the aft end. Clamped it up and welded. A little rough but eventually cleaned up nice. Pinned it underneath at the body jack pipe to support bracket with a solid 3/8 inch rod. Maxed out the MIG power and wire feed and made eight ugly fat tacks then ground smooth. Shaping up with lots of now permanently attached and shiny metal, It has way more corrosion protection on the insides than original. A stark contrast to the right side now. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    2 points
  19. So i've purchased my first ever boat, and it's a colossal heap of shit! According to the guy I got it off, its an unknown slapped together by someone. Its got a 11 foot long steel hull, powered by the second finest engine GM ever made, passing a whopping 180ish hp through a two stage Hamilton jet unit. It's fairly untidy for any age boat, but I intend to fix up and modify a few things. A few screen shots from my phone of the ol gal More pics, info and sharns to come once I finish fixing it. Regards, k
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. I used to have an 86 Mustang that had a bit of work done and it was a real weapon. I'll see if I can dig out the specs I had of it, but basically it had edelbrock aluminium heads, good flowing exhausts, 5 spd and 4:11 gears.
    1 point
  22. Definitely. The ends of the wing will need a little love and repair but I'm planning to put it back on afterwards. I also have some R31 endcaps that look the part and fit pretty well so they'll go on as well after I've painted everything. When I pulled of the intake piping, I found pieces of metal wiring all through the turbo and intake, then on the pressurized side before the intercooler i found this jammed in the side. I have no idea how or when this got in there but it must have been before i got the car. Explains why it would boost at around 4500 though I'm surprised it boosted at all. The turbo sounded like a hair drier when it was on boost and that explains why.
    1 point
  23. Tonight's tool tip. Clamp a piece of wood to your work to act as a sacrificial guide when using a hole saw on metal. You can also use the air duster through the vents on the drill to cool it off quicker when the smoke comes out and its too hot to hold. You always hear AvE complaining about modern tools shutting off with thermal overloads....well this Ryobi just keeps going until the brush holders melt right out of her Keep yer dick in a vice
    1 point
  24. That turbo. Looks like someone chucked a handful of bolts into it at full noise. Love the project good luck.
    1 point
  25. And here I was getting worried I was gonna be late...
    1 point
  26. Looks to be shaping up well, great job keep at it!
    1 point
  27. There are many levels of compensation needed in my situation
    1 point
  28. Well now the interior doesn't look so bad it really shows how bad the exterior looks. There's a few holes and dents here and there but i don't have time currently to panel the entire thing so it'll just be fix what i can for now and come back to the rest later. Pulled off the front panels and boot, removed the Adthree wing that was on it. That 3m sticky tape works good for keeping stuff on alright. Boot starting to get sanded down and filling in the dents and popping out the ones I can. I'm doing to ditch the SKYLINE rear badge as this one is pretty toast, I may see if i can fix it up later. The back of the car really cleaned up well. Sanded the surface rust down, hit it all with a converter and sealer then hit it with a high fill etch primer that will be sanded back down later anyway. There's still some dents that have to be filled but it's easier to spot these with the primer on than the old 002 white. Whole exterior sanded and primered. I'm going to redo this pretty soon and remove that last bit of Trim and do the bay and everything at the same time. You can really see how dented that passenger door is so I'll probably just end up getting a new one. I'm planning to re-underseal all under the arches and underneath of the car. Did a single medium coat of flat base white just so it's not ugly. This is going to get sanded down so I'm not to worried about the remaining dents and other problems. I also test-fitted the new rims on the back and they'll fit pretty good once I have the new shocks and such in. When I properly repaint the car I'll be doing the interior, exterior, door jams and engine bay as well as the boot so everything should look pretty good once I've gotten that far. The bumpers are a bit scratched but they should clean up pretty well. the front bumper has a layer of bog on it for some reason but I'm sure I'll work it out. Next up is undoing everything I've just done and stripping the engine bay and getting ready to pull the engine out and see what's going on. By this point in time I've replaced a few of the engine pieces and got it running but it's very rough and sounds like a hair drier. New coil, sparkplugs and dizzy cap later with a new ECU got it running.
    1 point
  29. Bought a few m of marine carpet and glued it into the front hull and sides. Makes it look a bit tidier but also hoping it'll make the hull a bit quieter when on the water. Mounted in a new fire extinguisher, coz, you know, safety....
    1 point
  30. 4 months later and suddenly the grass starts growing at a rate my mowing cant keep up with, all the flowers are out, birds are singing madly. The bush has the most amazing fragrant scent - especially the Lemonwood trees which have amazing flowers. The Kanukas and Manukas will start flowering soon too. At night time, because the land is mainly hillside we can walk along the driveway and the smell is so strong coming down from the bush. We now have two Keas who have claimed our place as theirs in the last two weeks. They are getting closer to the truck and fuck I hope they dont discover its Butynol roof membrane or the nice new rubbers on my Imp. As awesome and comical as they are I do hope they get bored and piss off elsewhere. There's also some falcons about. Usually breeding up one of the gullies and this evening I watched one of them attacking a Hawk until it flew away. Its weird that they dont seem bothered by the Keas even though Keas will happily eat some meat (well mainly the fat that they like) We now have a resident Chaffinch called Chaffy and a Blackbird called ... Blackie. I know. Terrible. They hang about here all day with us. Each morning they call us and wait for their porridge scraps. Chaffy has become a comically fat little fucker. Properly round! I'll get a good photo- you'll laugh. He now has a mate (Mrs Chaffy.. please dont judge. It was an easy name) She is still a bit shy. We think they might have started nesting in one of the Kanuka trees next to the truck. Will be neat if we get baby Chafffinches (except for the bloody naming bit...). No other birds have seemed to have spotted the abundent food these 3 get each morning. Weird. It might be that Blackie does chase other birds away. But he's cool with Chaffy and they will spend all day together just pecking about the place, mates really. Its quite fun. Then we sold the housetruck and stuff started getting real busy here! (so its the perfect time to buy three Micras then.... ha) With the truck going end of next month we had to sort out a proper decent living arrangement pronto. We still have the cabin and that's a nice place to sleep. But to live out of for several months/maybe a year while we build another housetruck was going to get boring real quick. So we have been building the mezzanine in the workshop. Now I was going to post up the progress of that in the shed thread but since its more actually a sort of alternative house build that is going to take place it can stay here. Plus once the truck goes we have loads of other planned jobs to do about the yard. Terracing and landscaping the bank behind and above where the housetruck is parked, with a view to designing it around the next planned HT build. We are also going to get rid of the tin shed in the yard, put some concrete down and build a garage- big enough for the imp or Micra plus loads of old bicycles. Old bicycles that seem to be breeding around here (because N + 1) We also want to build a nice little funky glasshouse and landscape between there and the garage a cool chillout area because it gets the last of the yards sun in winter. Then there is the elephant in the room - the cabin on the ridge. Might actually start building the decking up there this summer now that the timber is up there. We've bought an 1800 litre tank for up there. That will be a fun day out.... Anyway- yeah busy. So the truck is now cof'd and but for a few tidy up jobs we can consider it gone. Better build some upstairs accommodation then. I had posted up a few pics in the shed thread so some of you will have already seen its beginnings - which involved a whole load of timber. A lot of it has come from our own land and was already milled, treated and stacked in the yard. We have been keeping it covered, stacked neatly on flitches and it was great to finally rip into using it. Most of our beams are from that pile. Then we sourced more local pine from a friends place around the corner from us. Finally we bought a load from a local sawmill up the Motueka valley including some lovely Macrocarpa. We ran it all through our thicknesser because it looks nicer and doesnt hold the dust like rough sawn timber does... (Also lots of nice shavings for the compost toilet too- although we dont use treated stuff in there) Bought a decent sized metal bender for a customers gate job a while back. Damn I wish I had one of these ages ago. Came in handy for parts of the steel feet for the posts.. The main mezz floor down one side went up and looked great. Finally our main plan for the workshop was happening! (its the reason we had gone for the highest knee height we could , in our budget).. Getting the hefty unwieldy 3.6m long 20mm strandfloor sheets up to the next level was made easier for us two when we had a hoist to use... With the flooring up on that side we had to build some stairs. We wanted to move the steel rack too so we could put up the posts for the second level over the entrance bay. Having that rack out of the way and moved further in would also make for easier entry with trucks (important really....) So off with all the steel and sorted through it.. Move the rack along, make new wooden shelves for the top so I could satisfy my inner ocd leanings and organise all the offcuts neatly... Then we had more steel delivered including a length of 100mm rhs for the stair design I had planned. Started building stairs... Finished the stair metal work, made some big Macrocarpa steps and while I painted the steel work Hannah painted the corner plywood a nice yellow... Then finally bolt the stairway in place and attach the wooden steps. Really happy with how they turned out. Solid as and with loads of space below to stash other annoying tools (shame really because its so neat without stuff under there but it is a bloody workshop after all...) Then clutter them up with stuff ... Now with some stairs we could fill the mezz with bikes... Better storage solutions will have to take place- we have some ideas involving skyhooks, ropes and pulleys. Stairs completed so we better start building the next level up down the front. This will be a posh carpeted lounge room where folk can gather to watch a movie from (gonna get a projector for the ceiling) or just listen to music/read/dote on cat. Kevin helped by keeping guard over his new favourite rug... We have put up the floor up there and its great. I'll get some pics tomorrow. Now we will start building walls and lining stuff out. Got heaps ofg nice pine and Rimu flooring to use for some wall lining. We want a sort of smart/rustic look to this whole build and it has to be practical because after we have finished living up there it will be used as a workspace for cleaner jobs and projects. Oh and hey there macho men - don't laugh but I actually fancy getting into some sewing and making my own clothes- I have always enjoyed sewing but its a pain to do anything decent when you don't have the clear room to lay stuff out. So that will be a thing. helloooooo Oh I must add- we are both genuinely very excited about a future model train build so we are planning things around that too ie walls with holes, where track might go. It wont be to the same amazing level as things like the Pendon model railway but hey- ya gotta start somewhere and this will be a good space to do so. It will run around the perimeter and not be dated to any particular age so we can different eras and so include model cars from the 60s through to now. I want to make a sci-fi type section with futuristic type buildings and monorail like stuff too. Dreams but gonna go for it
    1 point
  31. Valve bounce makes a terrible noise. I had a valiant that would do it at about 4800rpm . I was trying to impress a girl one night and I used to shift just as it made the noise, she thought I couldnt drive and was graunching gears It was auto...
    1 point
  32. Okay so some 1NZ / 2NZ engine sharns. The 2NZ engine is the 1300cc variant. (as fitted) 10.5:1 compression, max torque @ 4000 max hp @ 6000. The 1NZ is a long stroke version of this which bumps it to 1500cc. Still 10.5:1 compression, max torque @ 4000 max hp @ 6000. So it gains power and torque but looks like the manifolds etc are the same which explains same rpms for max power and torque. So it doesnt look like there would be any worthwhile easy bolt on bits from the bigger motor. Howeverrrrrr The early Prius engine is a modified 1NZ engine that uses atkinson cycle and makes the worst power out of everything by far. But what's interesting and maybe relevant is how it does it. Atkinson cycle means it leaves the intake cams open for a lot of the way while the piston is still coming up so it pushes the air back into the intake manifold. So it reduces pumping losses but then has high static compression which is win win for efficiency. In order for this to work it needs a comparatively long duration intake cam (270 deg) It also means it has 13:1 pistons and an alloy intake manifold with what looks like shorter runners. Fancy coated pistons from factory: Alloy intake manifold to deal with air/fuel pumping back in and out of it: So the intake manifold might be a decent swap for a normal 1NZ And some prius weirdos have put the normal 1NZ intake cam in, to make it 13:1 comp in a more normal sort of way which is pretty lush. It would probably go decently by retarding the intake cam a whole bunch so its normal cycle then advancing inlet at high rpm when overlap is useful for power. It has forged steel rods but checking part numbers its the same as normal 1NZ. You can buy a whole prius engine for about 500 bucks. Definitely not going to do that any time soon but once my new shed is sorted I might buy one and tuck it away for a rainy day.
    1 point
  33. Used the grease trick to remove the auto Spigot Bush Collar from the back of the crank (its originally an auto motor from an RVR) will put the flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts and clutch on when I get a spare minute. You can also see the brand new spacer plate for the gearbox/starter motor installed Painted some bits Also pressed in new lower ball joints, found some extended ball joints from Fatboy racing that correct lowered steering geometry so will get a set of them at some point. Need to do another coat of paint on them as well (some came off when pressing in the ball joints) Not sure if ill get much more done this weekend but at least a little progress Also most of my parts arrived from Amyama if I hadn't already mentioned Waiting for lockdown restrictions to ease (mainly the 5km rule) so I can go to the wreckers, need to get a clutch master cylinder pin and clevis so I can attach it to my clutch pedal along with some other bits I am missing Fuel lines, emissions gear (maybe) bolt for the fuel tank, bonnet bolts, foot rest Also need to order some hub centric rings (73.1mm to 67.1mm) Considering some more factory wheels too but will see if I can get through a roadworthy without Hesitant to put the motor back in until after I get fuel lines sorted
    1 point
  34. Wof check was a F. But not a long list. An exhaust leak and hanger, handbrake cable adjuster, indicator lense broken and headlights to work properly (which is just cleaning up the fuse box).
    1 point
  35. I got the replacement clutch in and working but there's still something a little awry there that will have to wait until I get back from a couple of weeks holiday. I also discovered that I have a fairly common wobbly crank pulley issue so I should look into that before I get too carried away thrashing it. That said, I did enjoy taking it for a wee hoon after I got the clutch working and the hardtop on. More to come in the future but this is where we are at the minute: Once that was sorted I took it for a hoon to see my other white coupe...
    1 point
  36. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - RHS Floorpan fabrication and incremental forward progress. Took some vacation time off in July and travelled through the North Cascades and scablands of Washington state in a rented RV. Alta Lake state park. Sun Lakes Dry Falls state park. Back at it now on the Datsun Bluebird RHS floorpan. Made the the "3D" shapes that define the platform for the B-post body mount and the front footwell to front seat platform transition. Cut and welded flat the corrugation ends to match factory original. Started with laying out the cutout for the B-post body mount transition area on the underside. Drilled holes on the corners of the layout and inserted a pneumatic body saw. All cut out. Then cleaned it up a bit with various files. Flattened the adjacent corrugations to factory config and cut the transition step. Bent the floorpan to create the transition step down to the rear footwell. Trimmed the excess material and tack welded top edge of rearmost transition. Made a couple of 1/4 conical shapes, formed and trimmed to fit. Tack welded them in. Then made a rectangle piece and tacked it in. Overview of that completed "3D" mini-project. Then, moving forward, did a layout to start the front footwell to front seat platform transition between the side of seat and inner sill. On a right hand steer car this is where the hand brake lever would be. Underside shown. Cut out the metal and massaged the corrugations. Then bent the pan to match factory shape to lower front footwell dropdown. Trimmed and tack welded the top of the slight sloped section. Tacked in a triangle piece. Marked out the cut lines to relieve the remainder of the soon to be flattened corrugations. Corrugation ends formed, flattened and relief cuts tack welded. Upper surface shown. Plan is to TIG weld between all the many MIG tacks, thus I've strived to keep panel gaps to a minimum. Since I'm less than a beginner at TIG, I'm sure it will be a challenge for me. A bunch of my practice sessions have shown that fact. Anyway, I think it will fun to learn TIG, eventually, I just hope I don't vaporize too much metal along the way. Thanks for reading. More progress to be made in a few weeks hopefully. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
  37. Another diversion from rust repair was had. Rebuilt the 310 Datsun Bluebird fuel pump. A quick job that provides the satisfaction of finishing something in one go. Found a repair kit in oz several years ago and just hung onto it. Replacement pumps are a bit scarce and I didn't much like running it with a noisy electric. Anyway, it's good to go now, at least until the ethanol laced fuel ruins it again. The 310 Bluebird FSM is quite handy. There are several interesting pages dedicated just to the fuel pump. This is one. Learned a few new words. Chube, Diaspring, Pum. ; ) Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
  38. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - Right side completed periphery structures. A flood of pics to display the completed right hand side periphery structures. This will provide solid support for the future floor build. And on the work goes until the Bluebird rust be banished. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
  39. Took a break from the rusty sheet metal repairs and played with the engine. Checked out the valve train and made sure nothing was sticking, cleaned the metal grinding dust off the ignition components, rigged up a vertical fuel feed and cranked it up. Open exhaust manifold with no pipes or muffler. All just for a little fun break.
    1 point
  40. My interim diversion from the project metal work. Messed around with this Bluebird body jack thing a few weeks ago. Cleaned it up, disassembled, painted and tried it out. Lifted the left side of body an inch off the stands and set er back down again. Works great! Cut out the right side floorpan and posted that today in the project build thread. https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
  41. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Painting the underside and finally welding it into the car - Part two and last of the pics. Continued from previous post in the thread. Underside photos and a few more. Support bracket flange weld attachments to inner sill. Floorpan lap weld to prior toe-board patch. The far upper toe-board welds were from a couple of years ago and made a little too cold and random. I run the welder hotter now to get more melt thru and flatter welds. Sometimes though too much as in the extreme right weld melt thru. From previous post, the ideal weld melt thru I try to get. A nice shallow convex button of material. The outer sill will be welded onto the car next once I get all the hidden inside surfaces of both inner and outer coated with an epoxy prime. Should be a relatively easy task with no crawling back and forth under the car with my 60 plus year body. Too cold today though, freezing temps are prevailing. More topside pics of the completed work. Weld heads ground near flush for a clean look topside. Minutia. The black vinyl shown covering the door cards is not original. Probably from a late 60's redo. The original red and burgandy material remains underneath. The arm rest was salvaged from an ivory white parts car in mid 70's and sprayed black. Bezels for door handle and window cranks also salvaged from same PL311 parts car. Originals, PL310, were about same color as steering wheel, dark brownish gray. More of same. Again. Complicated and cramped location to access with welder. It was a little bit easier to get at this area. The structural welds to the A post body mount bracket will be left as is for best strength. The Hi/Lo headlight foot switch support bracket was salvaged and re-attached, but I had to replace the bottom flange due to rust thin-out. Yeah, so that's about it for now. Time to take a break, organize small tools and heal up from the under-car torture routine. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
  42. @tortron Thanks for the suggestion. I've been working on dies intermittently last couple of weeks. So far made something like this. Only part way there. Need to figure out a way to guide them together during the form operation and prevent lateral spread. More on the dies later, I've been slowed down somewhat by making a bunch of replacement underfloor supporting brackets out of heavy 16 and 18 gauge sheet. One example. Two separate bent up pieces. Then butt welded down the middle
    1 point
  43. @yoeddynz. Working the project at home in my off work time. My workshop is basically a home built wooden table, on wheels, containing an assortment of tools. Move the other car out, roll the table and welder out and have a go at it. MIG welding is fun, almost addictive, whereas forming flat bits of metal into original shapes is hard and is probably 95 percent of my labor time. Often the parts are made into rubbish and I start again. I feel like the welding action is my reward carrot for getting parts made well enough to look and fit good. Currently, I've about finished reconstructing the jack lift point structure that nests inside the outer sill panel. I'll try and post some more pics on the build tomorrow, time permitting.
    1 point
  44. And why am I in the house messing with old photos on Saturday morning and not outside or working on the Bluebird in the garage? Because the weather has taken a turn for the worse and it's just too darn cold. My poor 86 Chevy Caprice is outside. Brrr.
    1 point
  45. More Bluebird history. I love driving up into the mountains. Then, now and always. One of my favorite Bluebird mountain pass crossings back in June 1976, westbound on beautiful highway 20 through the Washington North Cascades. For the 48 hp Bluebird on the steeper grades, this was nearly always a maximum power event, pedal to the floor and changing down to second gear very early.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Auckland/GMT+13:00
×
×
  • Create New...