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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/20/20 in all areas

  1. So sheepers popped around, we did a bit of a bolt check, clipped all the fuel and brake lines up and then the above happened. How cool. The tune is only very beginning stages so I couldn't give it any real beans under load yet, but ambling around on part throttle was super great. The brakes feel awesome, as does the suspension. Things to look at include (and this is for my reference): - fix/adjust clutch so shifting is hopefully easier - move exhaust to drivers side so muffler is away from rear passenger side wheel - resolve tacho and speedo not working - roll rear guards cos she rubs a bit - driveshaft loop - secure and install battery box - seat mounts (for lush lush lush new interior) - diff is noisy, change out worn CW & P for a good spare set I have - get it aligned properly That's really about it for the moment. Not bad all things considered, the only stock mechanical component on the car is the steering column and rack!
    27 points
  2. Forgot a shifter linkage bracket bolted up to the trans pan. The original had an L shaped spacer plate on the thin steel pan... I won't need that with the thicker alloy flange, but the bracket fouled the welds on the alloy pan, so I filed some off it... And fits ok... It looked heaps thicker and I was worried it would throw the alignment out, but was only 3mm more than the original so should be fine... And realised I'd left the engine plate and flywheel off, so lifted it off the stand, was happy to do this as I'd forgotten to grease the tube and it was a bastard to rotate... And scrubbed the surface rust off the plate... And it cleaned up nice... So flywheel and plate back on, pretty much ready to mate up to trans when things are torqued up...
    16 points
  3. Kind of did a build thread here... But long story short: Made this, which holds these: The end.
    12 points
  4. Painted and put the lights in the roof Vinyl in the bathroom, toilet and light in
    11 points
  5. do you think the small end has gone, maybe piston is rocking?
    7 points
  6. Earlier in the week my remote brake booster pitched up. It came with some universal mounting brackets, but I wanted something more bespoke, so I spent the morning carving my own mounting bracket. The booster is now tucked up in its new home above the chassis leg in the back corner of the driver's side wheel arch. I'll need to fabricate a cover plate to keep it safe from mud and other road debris, but I'll tackle that once its all plumbed up and working. Sadly my little grinder gave up its life finishing off this bracket. I can't complain as I've had it a good number of years and its done really well. So after lunch we will take a drive into Bunnings to get a new one. Thanks for reading.
    6 points
  7. Alright mumma never raised no quitter after alot of perseverance and some fresh eyes weve got it going! Thanks to everyone who offered ideas. So I had the ignition side of the wiring all re done with new relay. The dizzy cap was giving shit spark to #1 Bought a new dizzy cap and rotor Took all plugs out cleaned up still no go. Turns out a rogue plug wasnt giving consistent spark so replaced all plugs and checked resistence in the leads which all were fine. It would start up fine but when getting warm it would start to run like a bag of dicks.. over fueling and smoking like no bodies business.. Started looking at carb videos thinking I would be replacing the jets/adjusting floats I noticed in the videos their choke was fully open at 180 degrees and mine wasnt... no where close Heres a pic of when the engine is warm and the electric choke fully open.. Pretty sure suppose to be more like this anyway after rotating the cap when engine was warm to keep it fully open it ran great! Few trips up and down the street no hesitation or bogging down and buggar all smoke!! Drove up and down the road half a dozen times noticed temp guage rising so put it back in shed to give it a once over - boiled thermostat it didnt open so I'll grab another tomorrow. Sump still leaks so I'll need to remove motor to goo up sump gasket proper. Then wof
    5 points
  8. 5 points
  9. so, red line - Silver tape - 52-70 Blue line red tape - 51-62 = best overall to date some power loss, too big blue line - same as above jam the 35mm pipe down the middle as per left in below pic gain most of power back - red line block outer runner with blue plate - other red line with gain down low and loss up top Looking pretty good, Haven't decided if its worth the effort to combine the 2 with a variable setup. but pretty close to matching the best trumpet with the double. it would make a pretty nice power/torque curve combing the 2 positions together :
    5 points
  10. Faaar out what a weekend. We travelled to Hanmer on Thursday and woke up friday morning to snow. lol. That was good fun though tbh, there werent any scary moments. Kaikoura bound, feeling very underprepared. The Clutch master died on the way over. got lucky with the roadworks and managed to bang gears/ revmatch enough to get all the way into town without stopping once since leaving hanmer. i pulled straight into the caltex and spoke to the mechanic there. he rang round for me and tried to locate a rebuild kit but there wasnt anything anywhere he could find. i decided to try a brake master from a trailer, only as i saw one on the shelf at safe r brakes yrs ago and thought, hmm, that looks similar. turns out theyre identical. fuck yeah. shop across the rd had 2 in stock. the snow hadnt reached KK but the rain had, so i had 40 mins of getting wet and lying on the floor on a sketchy as fuck jack reching in through the wheel well to bleed it. but it worked. the sun came out after i'd finished because of course it did so we cruised the strip a bit until we could check in. Night time at south bay. then the sat cruise. I got hit, fairlane couldnt stop, smacked into a mini which then shunted me. the mini was badly damaged unfortunately. i feel really bad for the guy. i was pretty pissed off but did some stuff still, but mostly waited until the afternoon and parked my arse on the espalande with a box and watched the cars cruise. on the way home... The damage. FU! its been a pretty intense few days tbh.
    3 points
  11. Fucking thing is still rattling/tapping, WTF. Wondering if something is makes the clearances close up when it's running or something. Also felt like it's starting to either nip up or something, actually sounded and felt more like it was running out of gas rather than seizing but will pull the cylinder again and check for any damage just in case and pull the carb + fuel tap filter and have a looksy while I'm at it. Goes fucking well when it wants to though haha.
    3 points
  12. Tonner went in last week, hard-line is all done now, master cylinder was perma fucked from sitting/neglect so they are working out the cheapest solution to sort that.
    3 points
  13. No jets here bro... but perhaps the Convair uses A1 anyway? I dunno. I'll have a yarn with them
    3 points
  14. Mate which evercoat did you use? there are 20 types budget version through to mega fancy, was it Rage 3D gold? haha. (used 3M and upol also great) But yes the moral is go to a paint shop for all your gear not a parts store, otherwise you are using silverline brake pads (or worse) basically.
    3 points
  15. Been a long time no update but anyway thanks to Stu and Sheepers and Nick the Sparky this is where we are at. Weird. Went pretty smoothly, it's spooging a bit of oil out the breathers on the top but I guess once it's run in that'll settle down or it'll just keep doing it cos 4AG life. I have 5 forward gears, a clutch that works and some brakes so with a few hours checking things and tidying up small jobs there's nothing stopping me from going for a wee drive. Oh the thermostat doesn't seem to be opening but that's not really a big deal to sort out hopefully, it might just be old and stuck, or new and stuck, as the case is.
    3 points
  16. So when i first looked at the car right before Auckland Lockdown V2 it was a bare shell on a chassis dolly, The previous owner spent a bit of time during lockdown and put the panels back on, factory suspension and steering and diff in and got it mobile again for me. He packed the car with as much as he could then when I picked it up the ute tray and back seat was chocka with bits as well for the trip home!
    3 points
  17. All back together now. Had a turbo shit off a time getting the heater hoses back on because some idiot stuffed a huge motor right in the way. New clutch (remember that, the reason we pulled it apart in the first place) is really good, it's a tiny bit grabby at take off but it's not really bedded in at all so I don't know if this will get better or worse. Also i have connected the boost control pipes around the wrong way so it's free boosting up to about 30psi. Easy fix that. I drove it to work.
    3 points
  18. Roger that. Shiloh is onto it with kero. If you're friendly with a pilot that has jet a1 on the island that is another option.
    2 points
  19. Kerosene seems to be used a lot to thin out diesel for icy climates, it's also the go for thinning out waste vegetable oil fuel I've read.
    2 points
  20. The throttle cable bracket took some figuring out but I got it all working with the factory cable.
    2 points
  21. And today the bulkhead connector has arrived. So stoked to have this piece of gear.
    2 points
  22. Another 2 done. Worked well. I think 4 paper weights is enough for now. Time to move on to something big! For reference of where it goes. Houses cam gearing.
    2 points
  23. So rust all repaired and on to fitting everything back together, a much more fun job. Rear diff painted, and new brake lines run. With the diff moved back, brake line won't reach chassis, so moved it to exit internally (all lines will be running inside the car) New feed and return lines run through to cabin from surge tank, using hardlines for as much as possible due to cost/weight savings. Tapped the head for the water fitting and blanked it off as I don't need it for my setup, saved 120g by chopping it in half...
    2 points
  24. plenty of 'wiring' happening today. in my defence i fused everything. and it all works. i'm really happy with the result though. finally got the tach in and working. it reads comically high but meh, thats a problem for another day. i love it, they're different cars with the tachs. rust converter doing the magic got the missus tp help me string the screen in, its the 3rd one we've done, she's getting quite good at it lol. i hope i used enough sealant. done, with the chrome.
    2 points
  25. Well I haven't been very good at keeping you all up to date with what's going on in my shed lately so I thought I should try a little harder and share this with you. A few weeks ago I spotted this 1982 Sigma SE on the side of the road in Ohope and decided that it had to be mine. It ran like crap, but it is very tidy and most importantly is rust free. I have been busy working on getting it running properly. The car was on LPG for many years and the factory carb was pretty much useless. I have fixed this problem by installing a 32/36 Weber and she runs sweet now. Photos and details to follow. Discuss the project and/or mock me for my ridiculous life choices here
    1 point
  26. starting to look good
    1 point
  27. This is what I have in the shed. https://panelstore.co.nz/collections/all-paint/products/3m-platinum-plus-body-filler-3-8kg
    1 point
  28. https://panelstore.co.nz/collections/all-paint/products/evercoat-lite-weight-body-filler-3l https://panelstore.co.nz/collections/all-paint/Body-Filler or pick a 3m one
    1 point
  29. +1 for Spencer's advice. That's what I've been doing and have not had any issues yet. Another tip I was told, and have used, is when prepping for bog over epoxy, scratch up the bare metal with an old file or something before applying the epoxy so it gives the metal a rough surface to help the bog bond. It gave me peace of mind if nothing else. Some epoxys you can apply and then bog straight over the next day without any prep between which can be a bonus.
    1 point
  30. If you're in Auckland you're welcome to come and have a look sometime.
    1 point
  31. Son has be harassing me for a green stone necklace so I made this in about 15 mins with a tile cutter disk
    1 point
  32. Bro soo stoked for you b such a long time in the build makes the first drive a treat. Looking forward to a cruise on full doorts well done brother
    1 point
  33. I got some in. Here's how these ones actuate the handbrake mechanism ... 1st 2 pics of what they look like with pads fitted. These next 3 pics are taken with pads removed and the handbrake levers showing their movement. Basically each lever presses against the steel backing plate of each pad moving them against the rotor. Might talk to @Taistormsometime about how to go about the handbrake setting up if I can't figure something out myself. But yeah, this is how the Wilwood Powerlite handbrake setup essentially gets it done.
    1 point
  34. So yeah I don't really update this at all, not much has happened since my last post in 2017. Had to use Google to find this build thread because OS search sucks. For the first time in over 5 years this is now living in the same house where I live. Amazing. I might even use it over summer. It doesn't fit down my driveway though so I'll have to make a small ramp to avoid it getting bellied. Was a three plank job to get it down today when it arrived. I might do some stuff to it as well. Check back in 2023.
    1 point
  35. Got it on the dyno made 305kw @14psi . https://youtu.be/zg2lvkEhofM
    1 point
  36. These are up next for some testing. maybe this weekend.
    1 point
  37. Thanks man, it's a bit overdue I neglected her for a few yrs, but after buying a house and sorting visas etc I can divert some funds her way now, I hadn't driven it in so long it had dropped off the map tbh which is never a good thing. Il get her stopping and cornering right then look into paint. The bolts are plastic. I'm missing a few so would also be keen to find some tbh. They have a serrated back a bit like a wall plug and are just a push fit.
    1 point
  38. This weekend the safety switch got wired up. I took the fuel pump off, made a blank plate to cover the hole, and found the original battery clamp. All went well so I took it off the stands and around the block for a quick drive. Awesome! so smooth, goes great, makes nice LPG smells. I'll see about getting it legal ASAP.
    1 point
  39. Manifold without charger on. You can see the two bosses that stick up on inside of fuel rail. These are fixings for two L brackets that provide additional bracing for the supercharger.
    1 point
  40. Loving it in the new garage, gets beaut sun in the morning, so encouraging to get into things... Put the cover back on the diff, still got pinion seal to install... And wheeled trans out in the sun, dropped the pan and uh-oh. Sort of expected some debris, but not a loose bolt...? Pretty sure it came from here after googling images of C4's... So carried on replacing filter, forgot about the spring and plunger under it but caught them ok... and cleaned things up and replaced that bolt... Shiny new bits to fix the leaky pan, sweet... And cos the alloy pan is deeper you need a deep pan filter. Nice thick reusable gasket... I did measure things, but looks right... Was about here a duck turned up to help... And done... Fitted a new mount as well... So trans should be good to go, there was a bit of gunk and a few metal shavings that bothered me, but as it costs a couple of grand to get a trans refurbished I'll just hope a new filter and fresh fluid will be ok. Never had any issues (apart from blowing a torque converter during a burnout) and interweb consensus is bits in the pan are normal, so we'll see...
    1 point
  41. Adjusted valve lash on the weekend, rotated each pushrod till I just felt resistance, then 1/2 turn more and locked them in position. Did the #1 TDC, then 180 deg, then 270 rotate method to do all valves, and went though each cylinder in turn after that rechecking them, seems ok... Then braced myself for looking at the suspension, that had been removed 3 yrs ago and not looked at since (apart from a half hearted attempt at the driver's side). Wasn't too bad, started by scraping out the passenger side wheel well, nearly 50 yrs of accumulated crud made a greasy mess on the floor, swept it up (filled half a bucket) and cleaned with petrol. All the while cramped up against the wall, wish I'd taken a before pic... Had no idea where I'd got to on drivers side so rechecked torque, some bolts were tight, some only done up with fingers. Had a bit of trouble finding torque specs but went with: Top arm pivot bolts - 90 ft-lbs Lower arm pivot - 90 ft-lbs Lower arm to strut rod bolts - 65 ft-lbs Strut rod to under body bracket - 50 ft-lbs Spring saddle to upper arm bolts- 25 ft-lbs Ball joint mounting bolts - 30 ft-lbs And was going to do ball joints to steering knuckle at 80 ft-lbs but the castellated nut screwed past the split pin hole before any torque was applied, so I'll need some hardened washer spacers, will grab some today... I went though old pics and set the suspension strut camber eccentrics, and thread lengths approximately where they were on disassembly, will do the same for the steering tie-rods so hopefully it's driveable before I get it aligned properly. So things are clean, upper and lower arms and strut rods in place and almost ready to put the new springs in... Looking fwd to seeing how these sit...
    1 point
  42. So not much to see here but I did manage to get all the supplies I need to complete my test wiring of the tail lights. So here is one of the finished light holders. Learned all the pitfalls of using this wire / plug / sheathing which is good because I don't want to make any mistakes on the balance of the car wiring.
    1 point
  43. Nah. Just a wakeboard boat with an LD28 running an Eaton M90 pushing 1 bar of boost 24/7 (because diesel-no TB full boost always while running) with a water to air intercooler utilising the unlimited supply of cold water that the boat floats in. Zero heat soak, low intake Temps, stable and safe running. Plus because one bar of boost always no massive black clouds of smoke ever. And diesel is cheap as fuck. And nothing makes instant torque like a belt driven pump. Perfect for wakeboarding
    1 point
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