Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/05/20 in all areas

  1. ** Discussion https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/ ** So I never thought I would end up owning a rotary any time soon but wasn't having too much luck finding a sweet Starion/Conquest near me over the last year or so. This came up locally for a good price and thought why the fuck not. It's a 1985 Canadian spec FB RX-7 GSL-SE with the IMSA Targa option. It's basically the same as US spec top of the line GSL-SE with 13B RE-EGI engine just with km/h dials instead of mph. IMSA Targa package adds faux brushed metal targa band (I'm not the biggest fan), front splitter (currently off the car broken) and rear wrap around wing. Factory options include maroon leather interior, electric windows/mirrors, push button climate control A/C, LSD with larger vented disc brakes F&R, cruise control, and glass moon roof with carry bag. It's a two owner car with 167k kms on the clock. Needs a little tidy up with a few small rust patches but otherwise it's a solid body and completely factory original inside and out. It comes with an almost complete '84 GSL-SE parts car that has a 10k old rebuilt engine (though hasn't run for years) and a Racing Beat full exhaust which will probably find its way onto the good car. Plans are to tidy it up over time and bring it back to as factory fresh condition as possible. Probably hang onto it here in Canada for a while and perhaps even bring back to NZ with me. Discussion https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/
    14 points
  2. tried to think of a catchy title ^ for my new 2002 gilera ice 50.... I've always wanted one of these as the cool kids were riding them when I was in England (you can hide spliffs and 8ths in the glove box real well) I've had "gilera ice" on my favorites search on trademe since trademe was invented.... there are now only 100 odd on the road in the uk so becoming very rare, this one came up on marketplace hahaha bloke wanted 400 I gave him 300 and said cheers, has a live plate, non working front brakes and seized front shocks.... i can work with that. I have a 70cc malossi cylinder kit in stock and have on order a malossi flip exhaust, new front brake lever and master cylinder new tires and malossi multivar 2000 variator kit, new 19mm pwk carb. I'm hoping for 100kph. any way ill dump photos here, it came in ok condition but definitely worse for ware first up is starting to strip and hot water blasting grime and oil. ps if you haven't hooked your water blaster up to the laundry hot tap are you even living?
    12 points
  3. Wow, it's been almost six months since I got this back on the road and warranted. Took it in for its WOF check today, and passed with a clean sheet. Good feels. I better get my arse into gear and do more than the 186 miles I've done in the last 6 month period! Before the WOF I thought I had better take it for a quick shakedown, so went out for a hoon last night.
    10 points
  4. Discussion here ahhhhh the other mk3... as some of you know i bought a parts car for my 4.1 mk3 im building ...this one when i got it. i stripped every part i needed from that car done to the loom ,nuts and bolts and even the pre facelift dash... i did put the facelift dash back into it tho. i then added some seats i had sitting around and some random wheels and sold it off to a mate as he just had to have it......it meant that i got most of the parts for my 4.1 build for nothingin the end. as it sat when i sold it. (minus lights and grill....at best it was a good rolling shell) and i did get the bonnet for it as well.. so some weeks later my mate asked if i knew any one that would buy as he just couldn't be arsed having a car around that didn't run....i knew it was a good car and just needed a facelift mk3 or a mk4 or a mk5 parts car and it could be put on the road pretty easily....as reg on hold.......(origanal black plates) registered with the mighty 1300 xflow tho......not the big block pinto....bugger... i had sold my mk2 to another mate so i bought it back.....and put it in storage and kept an eye out for a parts car..... now i had seen a few around but they had been parts cars for others and i didnt want to have to find screws ,missing nuts and bolts ect ect....i wanted something complete that had never been pulled a part..........so i could pull it apart and then i found it on trademe the almost perfect parts car for my parts car ...i say almost because it doesnt have a 1300 and manual box......its an auto pinto.. so i won the auction and the car was in invercargill i had 20 days to collect...and we did that yesterday... a mate bought a fwd fiat ducato (ex ambulance) converted to transporter on tuesday and we decided to drive it to invercargill on Saturday....so we loaded up a vc valiant to take done for his mate got up at 5am and hit the road....the lights died just after asburton ...fixed that. the auto played up going into dunedin.....fixed that (kinda) .got to invercargill and droipped the vc off....drove back out of invercargill to pick up the cortina that was 3 feilds deep off the road in a barn....no tracks just knee lengh grass and massive mud holes where the 2 hedges we had to pass were.( the guy had a tractor but it was broken down next to the cortina we only just got the fiat in there we had to gun it threw the mud full on duke of hazard style ...he showed us where it was and asked us to shut the gate and buggered off.....justb then it started pissing down we tried to air up the tyre and only got 3.....winched it onto the truck and then backed the truck under cover to strap it down....had to strap the bonnet down as well and the rear door..as well as the passenger sided doors.....then we tried to leave....but wet grass,pissing down rain,fiat fwd ,,,,no lsd or locker just the 1 tyre fryer ...took us and hour to get threw the 1st feild and didnt stop till we hit the road....broke a head light,,ripped the sump guard off .....shut the gate and headed home.the auto was having a fit....by the time we got to gay old gore we had it sussed flick it into neutraland back into drive and it would select the next gear......down shift worked ok ish.. so after 1200 ks 17.5 hours door to door its back at my mates place and here is the little sweet heart. 1 careful lady owner ..never been raced or rallied rolled bowled or arseholed...has been on the road since 84 i think i know right ...what a wee darling .but its all there on the inside and what all i need....even put a battery on and all the lights work the motor turned over but wouldnt fire....sorry about the long read but cheers
    7 points
  5. Entrants, as of 5-07-2020 @ 2pm @johnnyfive Daniel, aka Ruckus guy, aka Grom guy. @GuyWithAviators @UTERUS @MopedNZ @TimShadboltfan27 Shannon D Daniel W @Shakotom @Threeonthetree @Tumeke Brudda @Tumeke @keltik @Vintage Grumble @Truenotch @Mr Vapour @tortron @WankBankA100 @BLIZZO @anglia4 @mark105 @RUNAMUCK @Duke Blackwood @HighLUX @Mitch.W @Beaver @00quattro00 Bucket Barry on bike @MaxPower (Vehicle) @rumrum @slacker.cam @sentra @Dolan @Itchybear @Deliboylurker @Kass @Chunky_t @Thphantum (vehicle) @Geophy Brudda @TimShadboltfan27 @Geophy SNR Jason H Jamie F Paul A @Atex Tofa / Chris R 44 riders 2 vehicles If theres anyone who has missed out at this point, speak up and we'll see.
    7 points
  6. All back together and you can barely tell, lol.
    7 points
  7. The tie rod end situation is hopefully getting resolved, I have sent a new Y60 rod end plus one of the ball joints from the Y61 drag link that came with the axles down to HBI Engineering in Christchurch, they will make a new ball and taper to suit and reseat it in the new rod end. Because of this I didn't really get onto the axle install, as I would like to keep the truck as mobile as possible. I did give the new axles a scrub and blew some black zinc over them in preparation though. I also looked at my brake bias valve, the setup appears correct for the lift, but while I was jiggling it my fingers came away with a wee bit of brake fluid on, so I will strip this one to see of it is salvageable, otherwise look for a new one.. So instead of installing the axles this weekend I tidied up some other things. Mostly I spent the time installing a wideband to assist with tuning once I get the boost compensator on. This is a Glowshift unit I got cheap off TradeMe, it goes up to 20:1, but who knows if it will be any use really. It was hosing with rain today so even though I finished the install I didn't check it out. This might not be the best place for the sensor, but it was pretty convenient for welding the nut on; I now have any number of mismatched gauges jammed into the dash, I am not one to care about aesthetics over function, but this looks a bit of a dog's breakfast. I'll do something about this later I think; The other wee job was to stop the lid of the toolbox banging, this was clearly audible in the vid I posted while driving up my driveway. I hacked this device out of one of the seat rails that came from the Suzuki seats, we will see if it has the desired effect;
    6 points
  8. Modified and rebuilt a toyota k series electronic distributor for a friend today. His engine is rather modified, so he doesn't use vacuum advance. I just made a plug with an arm on it, locking vacuum advance. It's based on a commercial engine 5k distributor so has a bearing instead of a bushing, this should make it more reliable. Some measurements indicate it should give 24 crankshaft degrees of mechanical advance at top end - so he should be good if he sets base timing at around 10 or 11
    5 points
  9. next meet: Wednesday the 15th July, 7PM @ Spitfire Square
    5 points
  10. @EpochNZ was washing his new car today in preparation for the 15th!
    4 points
  11. Seal imports? I always seem to find something that'll work, or can be made to work from those guys.
    4 points
  12. Did some more metal carving today. The Starwagon beam has an extra reinforcing skin welded on where the original mounting perches sat. Even although it was factory done the sides are not uniform so it took me ages to get the cardboard templates just right to ensure minimal gaps. Clamped them up and sat them in position on the beam. Needed to fine tune the cuts a bit, but levels are now spot on so next step is to glue everything together. Ground away the galvanising to aid penetration.
    4 points
  13. You might think so, but I was cleverer than that. I want to turn up in a 3 door hatch....so I've started with something oversize knowing it will shrink.
    3 points
  14. High pressure water, it'll be rusted out by then
    3 points
  15. Nothing disappointing about this! She runs like a little honey now.
    2 points
  16. DoBros....Not just for Breakfast... @DoBro Jesus and @JustHarry working on the latest Mitsubishi of Disappointment...
    2 points
  17. Pizza, dobros, and fixing shit cars, Sundays at mimico are always great haha.
    2 points
  18. Had another track day go badly - 2 laps in, an o-ring on the oil cooler pushed out and pumped a sump load of oil on the track, without realizing we did a lap with zero oil pressure. I put it on the trailer and took it home, pulled the sump off and thankfully the crank looked ok, so I put a fresh set of bearings in and fixed the oil cooler issue. This weekend we made another trek up to Taupo for Drift Antics. The car went well all day with no hick ups, which meant I could focus on learning to drive instead. Here's a video showing a few laps.
    2 points
  19. Ok finally a moment to continue pulling things off the car #timepoor.
    2 points
  20. That second clutch (on the right) is spun by the rear wheel through the final drive, so yeah X amount of road speed kicks the arms out and locks it into 2nd gear. Your down hill limiter is likely to be from mechanical resistance rather than an electrical limit. Depending how carried away you want to get I've got cases etc from a vertical Jog, with a bit of customising you can run Zuma (BWS?) cylinders and pipes etc.
    2 points
  21. so I made a note of the jets etc Primary main fuel jet is 140 secondary main fuel jet is 210 primary air corrector jet 170 Secondary air corrector jet is 180 Didn't pull the emulsion tubes out as cbf I'm assuming bigger number = More fuel / air? I'll wack the points dizzy back in as I don't fully trust the aliexpress and second hand dizzy to do its thing properly. That way I'll only be working with one variable/unknown rather than two.
    2 points
  22. Must be able to find a generic seal by dimensions...? Cool looking scoot btw.
    2 points
  23. These aren't belt driven/don't have a variatior. There's 2 clutches, first clutch engages to start moving, then the second one locks to engage second gear at about 30k.
    2 points
  24. Done around 350km on this so far, fuck i love it. Slowly working through all the little niggly (is that word racist? ) problems like idle tune, loose rear view mirrors, lever adjustment etc after each ride. Fitted the steering dampener off bike #1. Also got a sticker kit off trademe for $50. It was good practice but unfortunately half the stickers were missing and some were completely wrong for the bike. Next on the list has got to be a seat recover and widening with maybe denser foam or something. Right now it feels soft and luscious until You get an hour into the ride.. then it feels like ya arse bones are hard against the hard plastic seat base.
    2 points
  25. Had a family lunch so we had a play with the plasma cutter and made some exhaust hanger mounts I borrowed a charger and fired up the laptop which talked to the stinger which is nice. I raided a k20 a zebra for the cam sensors which I plan to use for the crank trigger. Scoped out the sensor on the daily so I know what's going on
    2 points
  26. Got some more bits knocked off my list. Clearance created by the oil filter, a few minutes work with a power file did the trick. Wired up the interior light, complete with a flash LED bulb. Its way brighter than the original type bulb. Still killed a couple of hours by the time I soldered the wires together, fixed my multi meter so I could trouble shoot why it didn't work and finally fix both door switches. The other job that got done was making some clearance between the brake pads and the hub. I am using Torana stubs with HQ discs and HZ calipers. The discs were turned down 12 mm to fit and it all bolts together. It was a Peter Brock fix back in the day of XU1 Torana's using HQ calipers. I went round to a mates place to use his linisher. Half an hour catching up and bitching about the cold and useless Politicians, 5 mins on the linisher, then another half hour to sort out the mk1 Escort wiper mother that he was playing with.That all put a dent in the morning. It all went together and plenty of space. The pads had a lip on the bottom edge that went below the friction material, that is gone now so there wont be any probles as the pads wear. I also figured out during the week that the IAC valve had died. Tried to buy one on Friday with no luck. I'll get one ordered Monday. I have pulled the intake track apart so many times I can just about do it in my sleep. Hopefully this will be the last one for a while. Last one was buying some flanges and tube to make the balance pipe. I had to go to Pakuranga for work so easy to get to Auto Bend to pick up the bits. The flange will go in the middle so that the exhaust can be split and removed.
    2 points
  27. Went down and have hacked out the old mounts as good as I can with engine in place. Need to get the 202/auto combo sold so I can plonk the 4.0l on the ground. I've only got so much room
    2 points
  28. So looking at the "path of least resistance" I've decided to stick to something closer to standard road height. Not only does it solve my rubbing front wheels, but it addresses a few other smaller challenges including a steering rag joint that is rubbing on a chassis leg. Someone on the Book of Faces posted a pic of their Thames running on 15 inch diameter Torque Thrust 2s at standard road height. He is running 6Js up front and 7J rears. The 15s fill the arches really nicely. The Torque Thrusts give a similar look to the Dragways, but the chrome on my Dragways is flogged and would cost moonbeams to re-chrome. The Torque Thrusts are alloy so no similar problems going forward.
    2 points
  29. 1 point
  30. Looks like they prototyped the FC dash in it, interesting in maroon! Import some modgies asap
    1 point
  31. Can't keep away from these things. Did an oil change on the transmission. Yip...yes it did... Cut and polished the 40 year old paint. Came up better than expected, but wont be winning best paint award at SEMA this year tho. Still, I'm happy with it.
    1 point
  32. Chucked together a new parcel tray since the original once was crumbling into dust due to previous owner thinking the rear windscreen glue was optional. Real please with how it came out. I'm done with everything I want to do before the manual swap, so I'll quite likley take it into work next week where it will live while the new trans goes in. Nearly done (famous last words)
    1 point
  33. Tomorrow I'll cut the front faces out of the same angle to form the last bit of the U. Thanks for reading.
    1 point
  34. Haven't signed in for a couple of months, awesome to see a decent turnout! More incentive to get the Vitesse back on the road
    1 point
  35. It's, umm, substantially bigger. Dropped it in the hole, jumped the gun a bit. Needs to go back another 150mm, but need to remove old mounts as the oil filter fouls on them. I'll need to fit a Z700 (Cortina) oil filter for more room. Tunnel appears to have enough clearance. Much better than that other engine
    1 point
  36. Knock off work early today as very slow. Thought I'd spend day with wife. She suggested giving me a hand to remove the Holden. Very surprised by that. Next thing shits getting real and it's out
    1 point
  37. So I’ve been up to fuck all with my bikes. When something gets to hard or doesn’t work I forget about it for a while. Next year my 550 turns 40! and that means cheap rego so I moved around the bikes to make the 550 more accessible and I’ve started bolting bits back on. I want to change the handle bars, I’ve got Hagon shocks for it and I need to rebuild a bunch of stuff to make it more reliable as a daily. Haven’t actually done much but tap out powder coated threads
    1 point
  38. Having set a new direction I started puzzling the next steps. I'm still keen to replace the Thames rear axle with the Toyota. Reasons being greater availability of spares and diff ratios for the Toyota as well as bigger drum brakes. So current thinking is to fit up the diff first and then I can fine tune the front to match by making up some spacers between my newly fabricated front beam mounting brackets and the beam itself. Getting the front beam further away from the chassis gives me the added advantage of dropping the engine and gearbox lower to the ground which not only buys me a lower centre of gravity, but also gives me more clearance between the chassis rail and my clutch slave cylinder which up to now have been in close contact with each other. The gearbox bell housing will also clear the rear wall of the engine box whereas before they were touching and I was looking at having to notch the wall. So all round I'm killing a few birds with a single stone. With this all decided yesterday I set about sorting out the axle perches for the Toyota diff. I took a bit of a short cut by cutting the original Thames mounts off the spare Thames axle that I picked up in New South Wales earlier in the year and that has been languishing in the back of my other HiAce parts van since then. I felt a bit guilty for destroying the old housing, but it's for the greater good. A quick cutty, cutty with my favourite little grinder of angles and I'm half way there. Just need to glue them onto the HiAce axle
    1 point
  39. More bits arrived It's all the shit I ordered while locked down.
    1 point
  40. Even @Yowzer puttered up in his shitty grey Tiida through the fog with his lights off at 55kph on the open road to Auckland
    1 point
  41. Once again, it has been a bleeding long time since the last post, but of course, I haven't just been sitting around doing nothing. It may be a whole new world out there thanks to the current chaos, but the free time I suddenly had was enough to kick start work on the TVR. Way back before Christmas last year I ordered new carpet and underlay. Until now it's been sitting in the garage waiting for me to get around to pulling the old carpet out and replacing it. It's not a job I was looking forward to. I'm not a huge fan of working in interiors due to cramped access and lots of kneeling on the ground. This is what I was dealing with. Old faded carpet which had started to come apart, especially in the footwells, due to being exposed to moisture for long periods of time. When I got the car the whole floor pan was soaked in water and had been for a while I suspect. Even after drying the carpet out it always had a certain smell, and the carpet was dry and crunchy to the touch. What I didn't realise until later was that the carpet wasn't mean to be that tan colour, it actually used to be dark blue. There were some spots, like this section in front of the hand brake and under the center console, that hadn't seen the sun and were still the original blue (albeit in this case, filthy and squished). The first task was to remove the center console. First the surround on the center stack has to be removed, then the gear knob comes off, and there are three screws holding the console in. One at the back under the flap of carpet in the cubby, and two behind the radio in the cubby. Don't forget to disconnect and remove the switches too. It was pretty dirty under the console, with lots of shredded bits of insulation floating around. Lots of black wiring and heat wrap Next, the seats should be removed. I tried to remove the rails from the floor but had real issues. The rails are held in with two bolts, one on each end, which go through the floor and are secured with nuts from under the car. A combination of a little rust buildup on the threads, and a bolt head that isn't captive but is also inaccessible (no space for a socket or spanner) with the seat in place almost made me rage quit. I got a couple of the nuts off but got stuck fast on the passengers side, where the whole bolt was just spinning. The usual method is to jam the bolt head with a screwdriver to stop it spinning and wind the nut off, but this bolt wasn't having a bar of it. I rounded the head off quite nicely. Thankfully, as is good practice, I walked away and left it for a bit, and when I came back I had a new game plan; remove the seats from the rails. This is FAR quicker than messing with the rails, as there are four bolts under the seats, easily accessible with a 13mm ratcheting spanner, and then the seat just lifts off. One last thing that needs to come out are the roof struts. They are held in with a nut on the top hoop of the roof, and then nut/bolts through into the boot. Since the roof will not stay up without them, a couple of bungee cords were employed to keep it erect. One went between the two bolts on the hoop, and another from the wiper spindle to the cord between the bolts. A third was later added to hold the rear edge of the soft top up against the hoop for better access to the parcel shelf and rear bulkhead. I quickly added some offcut underlay under the cord where it touches the top of the windscreen frame to stop it damaging the paint. Now it was just a case of pulling, tearing and cutting the old carpet out (but keeping the sections in one piece). The carpet on the sides of the tunnel was barely stuck on, but some of the other carpet like the parcel shelf was a real prick to remove since it had really thick jute underlay. I don't think this was the original carpet, there were a few telltale signs it had been replaced at least once before, but obviously a long time ago, and not that well. This was a real time consuming and back-breaking process. Once all the carpet was off I needed to try and remove as much old adhesive as I could. This was done with a mixture of a wire brush and a grinder with a twist cup on it. It was very messy but quick to strip the glue off without damaging the body. As each section of carpet was removed I tagged them all with a paint pen, according to the official layout in the parts guide. This was so I always knew where the sections came from and where to refit them. With the carpet out it was time to start the job of measuring, cutting and fitting the new underlay and carpet. First was to lay out the underlay and trace the sections I would be fitting it to. The underlay I purchased although isn't waterproof (yeah, I know, but I was struggling to find any decent padded waterproof underlay and this car now has a phobia of water, so shouldn't be an issue), should work well. Its sold in 1.8m sections, and in the end I only needed to use 1.8x2m total (I'm not sure why it's slightly longer than advertised but I ain't complaining). I wasn't going to pad the whole car, only select sections, which were the inner tunnel walls, footwells, rear bulkhead and parcel shelf. Mainly places that will be touched, pressed or rested upon. I used the removed carpet sections as templates to trace around. All sections were also numbered with their identifier (or named for the obvious bits like bulkhead), and if needed, an arrow to show direction. We also got our first glimpse of the new carpet colour. TBH its not as dark or as "blue" as I had hoped, but it ended up looking better than I was expecting. Cutting the underlay with scissors literally tore my hands to bits. I ended up with a couple of gnarly blisters from the effort needed, as this underlay does not cut well. Regardless, I pushed on. Once the sections were cut, they were test fitted and trimmed Once I was happy with the fit, they were glued on with copious amounts of Ados high temp F38 contact adhesive, applied by a large brush. This stuff stinks (You MUST use a decent respirator as this stuff will get you as high as a kite before you get too far), but flashes off quickly and is as sticky as anything. I initially got two tins of this but had to buy two more later on as I ran out (and if I didn't change to spray adhesive for the rest of the work I would have needed a fifth tin). Work quick and get it in the right place first time as this glue isn't here to fornicate arachnids and sticks quick and sticks hard. The underlay didn't need to be perfect as the carpet was going to cover it anyway, but any bumps, creases and edges in the underlay will show in the carpet over the top of it. The bumps in the sections behind the seats are from the wires and fuel tank brace strap that reside there; they do end up showing as bumps in the carpet too, but not much I can do about that. Next was to trace and cut the carpet sections. This is where I made a fairly major whoopsie. I had been told to make sure my carpet "grain" was always going in the same direction on each part otherwise sections will look "shaded" as the grain will be going in different directions. Well, guess who immediately forgot this advice, and instead used his awesome Tetris skills to make all the carpet fit into the smallest space possible? Sigh. By the time I realised what I had done, I had cut all the sections out and couldn't start over. But hey, I got it all onto the carpet with some spare! As you can see in the later photos its not that big of an issue but might look a little more obvious if I had used a thicker pile carpet. I used engineers chalk to mark the back of the carpet, which was quick and easy to see. Everything was marked slightly oversize as it's far easier to trim it down than to make it bigger. A combo of scissors and a brand new knife were used to cut the carpet. Slight colour difference Trial fit, and then some trimming On went the glue. I did this in two sections so I could ensure it was all lined up front to back. Before these side sections went on there are little sections on the floor that cover the humps inside and out, these were fitted too. The corresponding outer section went on too. This was a real prick to do. I wondered why it was in two sections (split just aft of the A-pillar) when I removed it and thought "oh I'll just make it one piece, how hard can it be?", well, it didn't work and I had to cut my section into two pieces too as I just couldn't get it to line up at all. Working up under the dash and into the A-pillar space wasn't much fun either. The little strips of green tape behind the seat rails is to indicate the position of the now covered seatbelt mounting holes on each side, so I could cut the carpet in the right place later. Both sides had their inner and outer sections glued on, and then the front bulkhead, under seat and footwell sections went in Now, keep in mind this looks easy and seems to be progressing quickly, but in reality, the work was slow, painful and very hard to motivate myself to keep going. I also couldn't do too much in one go as I needed to wait for other sections to cure before moving forward with the next part. Stripping the carpet was about four days work, there were about ten days between finishing the underlay and fitting the first piece of carpet, and the last piece of carpet was fitted almost a month later. Anyway, with the footwell and tunnel done it was only the rear bulkhead and parcel shelf to do. These were never going to be fun due to their location and size. Before the bulkhead went in I had to fit the little sections that cover the arches. Now, I thought it was doing this right, and it looked right, until I later went to fit the interior trim panels, and found that I had placed them in the wrong order, but not until I had already screwed screws through them. I had glued the carpet to the arches Which was bad when the trim went on But what needed to happen was to have the trim panel screwed into the arch and then the carpet glued in over the top of that, not the other way around. It's obvious now but wasn't at the time. Now the parcel shelf carpet can go in. I did this in a couple of stages. First I trial fit it, trimmed and then using the Ados high temp I ran a strip of adhesive along the very back edge, making sure it butted up nicely against the bulkhead carpet. After 24 hours I came back and using ultra strong spray adhesive (which I had moved to for the footwell carpets and bulkhead due to ease of use and speed, but not needing the high temp for those sections) sprayed the top section This allowed me to place the top section perfectly, and then once that was cured to move onto doing the lower section on each side. In the very unflattering light, the bumps in the carpet behind the seats from the wiring/bracing is very obvious but in person, it's not that bad and is mostly hidden by the seat backs. But that was it. I had finally glued in the last section of the carpet! This is about the point where I was finally starting to feel happy with the work I had done, as getting the parcel shelf carpet in really tied it all together and made the difference. Before this, I just wasn't really feeling it and wondered if it had even been worth the effort. Now it was a case of refitting the seats, after a quick clean. I also cleaned and greased the rails. There has been a lot of other work going in during this. Since I had the center console out the switches got overhauled, various bits got painted, the shifter got rebuilt, and new shift and handbrake boots are being made. There will be another post on that work later. Today I decided to see what the carpet looked like out in the real world, not from under the harsh cold lights and out in the overcast day. I connected the battery up, primed the fuel system and turned the key for the first time in about two months. The engine turned and sprang into life. I still can't believe how well it starts and runs hot or cold. Reverse gear was selected, and I slowly backed out of the garage into the driveway. This is what I had done. Enjoy. I know I did. It's not perfect; there are still some bits I'm not 100% happy with, but overall I'm pleased. My first time working with carpet, and not even having a pre-cut or moulded carpet to work with. It was hard work, but the transformation from the old carpet is huge.
    1 point
  42. I’ve been working on the build video during the lockdown. I couldn’t find free music I liked so that’s something to look into for the next time. the car is for sale too on Trademe....
    1 point
  43. The clears a bit of a disaster really and reasonably gutted, so many things I'd have done differently in hindsight. But it's done. Drove it into the sun yesterday and it's not all bad news.
    1 point
  44. Yanked the motor out of the red one, and swapped it into the white one, spent too much time on Instagram and ended up spending some coin to import some bits to make the jog cooler. sourced some bits from Yahoo Japan -8inch wheels (OEM is 10inch) -UnderCowl and Rear spoiler from Japan -OEM Yamaha Jog floormat -repro lower rear side panels Then lowered to a inappropriate ride height, and purchased a sweet helmet to suit the style.
    1 point
  45. And painted. Replacing that oil seal so left it in.
    1 point
  46. Colour went down on the backs of the doors and all the shuts today.
    1 point
  47. Can someone from the 3D printing thread please whip up a few sets of hotwire's, turbo's and tridon's? Cheers.
    1 point
  48. Those aren't turbos!
    1 point
  49. This is my first 1:24 car model I've just done recently. No mods, just a copy of the wife's first car.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Auckland/GMT+13:00
×
×
  • Create New...