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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/03/20 in all areas

  1. I've finally got all the chrome off my test light surround. I'm going to take it to Lucentt today to be coated. I'll be super stoked if it comes out good - hopefully I end up being able to use it as the final version.
    8 points
  2. With it's bum back on the wheels I gave it a few bounces and then let it settle overnight. In the morning I grabbed my measuring tape and was able to confirm that the back is sitting about 7 mm higher than original. I then played around with some temporary spacers between the Starwagon front beam and the Thames chassis. Took a few goes to get the optimum height and again I gave the front a few hefty bounces and let it settle overnight. Result is that I am back to more or less the original ride height before I started the conversion. From the start of this project I have been hoping to dial in some low, so this isn't where I had originally planned to end up. But sometimes when you can't find an easy solution its best just to learn to love the problem, and I can with all honesty state that over the last two days I have learned to love the problem. Reasons being as follows: Engine and gearbox are now almost 80 mm closer to the ground than original setup. Original 4Y carbie now fits perfectly under the floor so I have the choice of running the original Aisan or a 32/36 Weber or the SU on its snorkle manifold. Steering rag joint no longer clashes with chassis leg. Side mounted selector levers on the gearbox are in a much better position. The lower selector clears the chassis leg completely and the top selector should be easier to sort out. I can run 15 inch diameter rims with the same profile tyres which will drop overall revs slightly at cruising speed. Front wheels happily clear the front doors with plenty of gap for suspension travel and steering. Gearbox bell housing clears the rear wall of the engine box. Clutch slave cylinder is now way below chassis leg. Some things are just meant to be. I've pulled the front beam out once again and have started making up some templates for the front beam spacers that I'm going to fabricate out of 8mm plate. Thanks for reading. Pic of dirty old Aisan carbie back on the mock up engine.
    5 points
  3. Grovelled under the Thames and fixed the cut off rear axle perches to the original leaf springs using the original Thames U bolts. Then offered up the HiAce rear axle. Took some measurements to make sure that everything was aligned correctly then hot glued the axle to the perches. It's only tack welded in position for now as I may have to fine tune the pinion angle once the gearbox is mounted in its final position, but at least I could get it back on its rear wheels to get a feel for how it is sitting.
    3 points
  4. So not much to see here but I did manage to get all the supplies I need to complete my test wiring of the tail lights. So here is one of the finished light holders. Learned all the pitfalls of using this wire / plug / sheathing which is good because I don't want to make any mistakes on the balance of the car wiring.
    3 points
  5. So upgrading the ECU and got a Wideband set up as well - Link G4X + Innovate WideBand - Have also grabbed and expansion loom + stuff to wife up plugs for the CAN
    2 points
  6. Oh well I'll carry on. Massive thanks to @Transom. I had a nice delivery today
    2 points
  7. It's off the rotisserie for now! Needed to sort out the driveshaft which require the engine and gearbox to go back in. Got the axles sent away to be shortened and resplined by 105mm a side. That meant I should make an attempt at swapping the Altezza LSD and the 4.1 CWP into the diff head. No pics because I didn't really know what I was doing. But for those that are interested I ended up using the LSD side bearings and swapped the Estima pinion bearings onto the 4.1 pinion. The Altezza pinion bearings where thicker which made the pinion gear hit the diff case. I couldn't get the wear pattern right because I didn't have any shims other than the two that were already on the pinions. Got it close enough for the time being, will buy some shims or give it to someone else to finish off. Decided to run Coil-on-plugs instead of the dizzy relocation kit, mostly just to keep the engine bay looking simple and clean. Got a set of 1NZ coils, I'm thinking of casting up an adapter plate for them. Got the SQ engineering down-pull throttle linkage installed and got the accelerator cable shortened to suit. Made a vacuum block off plate, since I hope none of that stuff is needed anymore. Also at some stage I filled all the unneeded holes in the front radiator panel. Modded the accelerator pedal so it sits a bit closer to the other pedals, as before it was way off to the right. Two-piece driveshaft all mounted now too! Think I got the angles sorted after spending far too long trying to work it all out. It's an Altezza driveshaft with the front half shortened (yes I know the front section u-joint phasing is 90° out). In this photo you can also notice the sills have been strengthened (somehow missed that update somewhere). Used some 3mm angle and welded it the full length and ground back, so it's now really straight! Then boxed it back up to the floor, to try and stop dirt and moisture getting stuck in behind. Makes lifting the car along there way nicer! This is the centre bearing support mount, much thought was also put into this! Hopefully it's fine being welded to the seatbelt mounts haha. Still needs some doubler plates welded on to the other side of the tunnel.
    2 points
  8. Link to discussion thread Thought I might share this with the oldschool community. I did attempt to attend an old school track day in Taupo right back at the start when I brought this car but had a shattered wind screen in Waiouru which prevented me from attending. So quick run down. Car is a 73 Ke20 2 door sedan which was aussie built. Check out the youtube clip of the cars first build below. SR20DET, roll cage, paint was all completed in Australia. Since I brought it I have overhauled most of the car, had some fun but now it is time for my version two with reliability in mind. Will start this with progress pics to date and take it from there. Original Build video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h35kYINEhaw From the drive home. This is how I brought it. First show. Now the strip and rebuild Stripped every bit of wiring from the car, all panels from doors forward removed. I have taken the entire fuel system out and will focus on the wiring aspect first then for a mix of all things to finish it the way I wanted.
    1 point
  9. https://www.springs.co.nz/ springs to mind as people that would know what to use, potentially have it in stock /be able to source. /no pun
    1 point
  10. Happy to grab you from Rotorua plane station if you end up going that way
    1 point
  11. You can tie and solder the spokes where they cross each other. I've done this on my velobike as everyone said I was going to die using the wheel I chose. I soldered them...didn't die...so must be good?
    1 point
  12. I had a couple of those types, one was absolutely junk, one was better but didn't fit 98% of the heads I tried to use it on. Twin cam heads leave fuck all room for anything. Think the first might have been Powerbuilt, can't recall the second one though.
    1 point
  13. I could get the wife's pocket bike going for back up bike?
    1 point
  14. In my last post I thought I'd made the idle better, but it turned out I just made the car idle faster when warm and hardly run at all when cold. So I kept researching. Most results relate to the more-popular V12 engine, and you also have to contend with the fact that the AJ6 had at least two different fuel injection systems on it over the years, with and without various anti-pollution devices. Here I've removed more of the intake bits to check for gunk and vacuum leaks: Some crankcase oil must end up condensing on the throttle plate and running down into the throttle position sensor mounted underneath it (TPS arrowed, throttle assembly shown upside down): I cleaned the TPS and measured its resistance. It seemed correct and linear except slightly higher at idle than immediately off idle. I measured and adjusted the throttle plate gap, reassembled everything and followed the idle setting procedure. Basically you fake the coolant temperature reading to cause the idle stepper motor to close, then you unplug that and set the base idle speed with the air bypass adjustment screw. I couldn't quiiiite achieve a low-enough base idle even with the air bypass fully closed, which I guess isn't ideal. The idle speed seems good now (hot and cold), but the car still struggles into life if it hasn't been started in a day or two and its idle still stumbles a bit. I tried new plugs and I tried spraying flammable stuff all around the intake to check for more leaks, but no luck. The next step of the idle setting procedure is to check the exhaust CO at idle, but I'll obviously need to find a shop to do that. I think you adjust the CO with a calibration screw on the airflow meter. My iteration of the AJ6 engine has no exhaust gas oxygen sensor, therefore I guess it just bases the fuelling on the AFM reading, a wing and a prayer? (fun fact - this is better than the early AJ6 EFI which just used manifold vacuum with no possibility for calibration - the vacuum would deteriorate at quite low mileages because the engine's valves didn't seal very well, or something nightmarish along those lines...) Anyway, my aftermarket electric aerial destroyed itself already. A piece of a little cog broke off and jammed the big cog..... ....but the Jaguar inline fuse did not blow. Instead the motor got very hot and began to melt the surrounding plastic, until a wire connected to the motor burned through. Electric aerials are very important and I couldn't deal with mine being out of action, so I bought another of the same brand. When I opened it up to oil the crap out of it, I noticed it had been revised - the cog which broke in the old one is now made out of a black material in the new one. Hmmm. Also, I spotted this XJ-S (not mine) with a lame personalised plate: It looks like they've parked their planet-pillaging V12 in a bay reserved for bicycles only, which of course they could get away with....because they've got a Jaaaaaaag.
    1 point
  15. Shits sorted, I stripped and checked the clappers, all is well. I have paid less for entire functioning cars than I did for the brake pads in there, bitches better be good. The only thing holding me back from assembling it all is finding the correct rod end for the drag link, as I have modded the y60 drag link to suit the steering box setup I want to continue using it. This means sourcing a rod end; left hand thread, M22 x 1.5 male, taper to suit Y61 axles. This is proving more difficult than I imagined. There is one out of a Nissan Condor that might do it - SE4381L, but I might need to buy one to check the taper. Anyone have any hints? I am wait for a reply from Superior Engineering in Oz, we will see.
    1 point
  16. For some reason this thing came with the wrong alternator pulley. It had a 13A belt pulley and the rest of the engine needs an 11A belt so I ordered a new dual row pulley from franklin engineering. Top notch stuff they make and seriously reasonable prices for quality Nz made products. Ordered an oil sender block at the same time to run my oil pressure and temp gauge senders. Will fit that in the next couple of days.
    1 point
  17. Right, babies 2 weeks old now so can continue playing with this thing. Worked our I’m still not getting full throttle. It goes well but not as fast as it should. Had a look at the accelerator pedal, found the problem. FUCK OFF, seriously?! Never have I spoken a truer word..... Made a nice new one and gave it more pedal travel. Guess what, full throttle now actually makes power, real power! Wheel spinning, ear grinning neck turning power. I’m a happy man.
    1 point
  18. Heads are fucked.. Cracked, Cracked Crack close up.. Cracked in between spark plug and valve.. These are in the same place on both heads So that's pretty annoying but to be expected.. Gonna have to split the case to clean it out, no point doing this only for it to fail later on so with that in mind stroker crank and 1776 barrels should give me 2007cc. Just have to bore the case but also have to bore any heads that replace these.. might as well get a new set already bored for bigger barrels, 9 hundy for a pair ready to bolt on bar bit of port work I want to do. *sigh* Prob about time for this.. https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74619-yetchhs-more-problems-than-i-expected-bay-kombi/
    1 point
  19. Bit of a shakedown run out to Lake Sumner over the weekend. Back in her natural habitat, gravel roads. Went like a champ!
    1 point
  20. Took the truck for its first major drive on the weekend did a 40km return trip out to Waihi Beach and she run flawlessly! Have had the Artilleries rebarreled as after sandblasting they had a heap of holes in the barrels. Wheel and Frame in Cambrdige rebarreled them with 7 inch barrels instead of 5.5 they were factory. Centres were riveted in from factory so they drilled these out and welded the centres into new barrels. Mate lined up to paint these this week then the whitewalls can go on!
    1 point
  21. DC2R Phone (33)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr DC2R Phone (36)-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Wheels, meet car. Yeah good. Caffeine and Classics tomorrow if the weather holds!
    1 point
  22. Big thanks to Drew (vk327 on here) for whipping up looms for me and the brother. While I'm sure an LS1 loom isnt toooooo hard, these later model engine ones turned out to be relatively complex and I am so fucking glad I didn't bother attempting it. There are a few little quirks that would have 100% caught me out, like the fact that my loom that came with engine was missing plugs and shit. Drew knows all the ins and outs which meant that the final product is essentially as good as it can possibly be for tuneability and coolcuntness. ECU/PCM now has base tune on it to roughly match cam, so I should be able to drive it down to the tuners for a tidy up and the all important power/torque figures. I should probably do a skid soon.
    1 point
  23. Yeah I dunno how he thinks hes going to get out of there without a light bar
    1 point
  24. was having a big clean up today and making room for the wife to park in the garage (1st time in 20 years lol).. put the diff in and slapped some rims on to roll it around but this is the closest its been to being on wheels in the past 2.5 years.
    1 point
  25. Progress is happening on the rust!! WooT!! Also went to do finally assembly on subframe today and had a bit of a hiccup with some nuts and washers, even though I gave the nut and washers to the guy to match, he still got them wrong, cue RAGE QUIT. (probably exacerbated by cunt of a job it is to get the lower suspension arms in, 4 things have to line up and they don't) But at least I got the brakes back together.
    1 point
  26. 0 rated sleeping bag and a belly full of PGs makes for a cozy charged night
    1 point
  27. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - Right side completed periphery structures. A flood of pics to display the completed right hand side periphery structures. This will provide solid support for the future floor build. And on the work goes until the Bluebird rust be banished. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
  28. Picked up some good quality window tint from @Archetype. As expected I wasn't able to do a good job of the rear screen and I'm happy to pay someone to do that later on, but the sides went flawlessly and I'm so pleased I opted to tint the car. Should help heaps with it being an oven in summer. The car is all but complete and back together, things lefts are to cut back the orange peel and buff it aswell as fit the manual trans. l
    1 point
  29. Even @Yowzer puttered up in his shitty grey Tiida through the fog with his lights off at 55kph on the open road to Auckland
    1 point
  30. first meet up in ages! Was a bit late so sharns weren't as widely spread, but will try make it on time next time. Pics for proof there was some old cars there.
    1 point
  31. Water pump was new not too many miles ago, and I was surprised at the corrosion considering I always run inhibitor in the coolant... Only really on the backing plate, inside seemed sweet... And I imagined a new pump would do the same pretty soon, so I cleaned it up and epoxied the plate while I was painting other stuff... Should hopefully stay a bit cleaner. Similarly cleaned up the sump and laid gasket on the block after installing the oil pump (that I'd messily primed beforehand)... And loosely buttoned up, will torque when the sealant has set a bit, didn't want to squeeze cork out... Used Permatex #2 sparingly on the timing cover gasket, looks ok (forgot to assembly-lube fuel pump eccentric but can get that through hole)... Coupldn't find a backing plate gasket in my new kit, but found one in the garage from previous builds. Assembled on dining room table in the sun for max danger while wife at netball... And pump on, so nice using new ARP bolt set. Looked at making up my own, but they're oddball lengths so this was easiest... And ready to start putting the top end on now, be nice to get it bolted up, always nervous when engines are left open too long (only been a few years)...
    1 point
  32. Keeping on theme with the left-hand side... Rear quarter has taken a hit at some point and been "dent-pullered" out, and smoothed over. So i un-stitched all the mess and started again. Due to me being a muppet - lots happened and no pics got taken!! So.. many hours of hammer and dolly, welding etc. etc. Still have the rear valance to straighten, lengthen, and reattach..
    1 point
  33. So true to word I finished trimming and cleaning the ends of the chassis rails. I plan to trim these tabs off and replace them with some facing outwards instead. That will let me get inside the rail to clean it out properly and get some good rust preventative paint in there before the valence gets welded on. Before that though, I decided to make up the valence panel itself. I had planned to make a cardboard template to base my replacement panel off, but then I realised that if I just tacked the original panel back together it would make a perfectly good template itself. I had sliced it in half to get better access to the spot welds for removal but that was nothing the welder couldn't sort out. Finally, with the "template" back in one piece, I cut out some material and took it to a workmate's to borrow his swaging jenny. In a perfect world you'd make the whole panel out of one piece and reap all the mad cred for your panel beating skills. I realised though that I don't actually have anyone that I need to impress and it makes no sense doing something the hard way when the easy way reaps essentially the same result (cough cough sump cough cough). Also there was the fact that the swaging jenny's throat wasn't deep enough to reach the center of the panel if it was in one piece. So it came to be that the panel would be made in a total of three parts. I used the jenny to raise the long edges of each of the rectangular swages that run vertically up the panel. While I was there I also borrowed the sheet metal brake to put in the two flanges on the top and bottom, as well as the slight horizontal kink in the swages, about 25mm from the top flange. All the stretching and folding left the panel with some considerable internal stresses which gave it a fairly substantial twist along its length. Rather than trying to hard to correct it at this stage, I carried on forming each of the features in the hope this would help to relieve some of the stress and help straighten everything out. To finish each swage, I hand formed each end with a hammer and dolly, while using the vice as something of a stand-in anvil. I know that's one of the cardinal sins of vice ownership but I don't really have a lot of choice. They're not perfect and there is some bruising from being a bit overzealous with the hammer but it's good enough for the girls I go out with and it wont be visible when everything is painted and undersealed. These alone were enough to take the majority of the twist out. Next it needed a bend in the top flange to follow the original panel shape. The flange itself is around 25mm wide in the centre where the bend needs to be. That would be a fairly ambitious shrink even if I did have access to a shrinker/stretcher, and now without it's even more so. Happily one of the rear door catch bolts wants to exist in the same place as this centre shrink so by adding a cutout to go around the factory captive nut, similar to the factory panel, I made hand shrinking the flange much more doable. So the top flange is bent slightly while the bottom remains straight to weld to the outer rear valence. The top flange front edge was also trimmed parallel to the vertical section meaning the outer edges are narrower than the center. Looks pretty good so far. The last thing that needs doing to this centre section is the addition of the water drain points in the lower flange. The panel gets some speed holes from factory and wiring penetration points, all of which will love to scoop up water. Without some way to let this water back out you end up with a substantial rust trap. Ford knew this, hence there are these water drain points in the factory panel that I am going to attempt to recreate. Making my life easier again, rather than trying to form these points completely with a hammer and dolly and deal with mind bending shrinking and stretching, I opted to chain drill out the space above where the flange will be moved up into, then weld it back up once the desired shape was achieved. I don't think I got any photos of the welds but suffice to say I'm still getting my eye back in after the extended break. Nothing a grinder and paint can't fix though. That meant the centre section is more or less complete. But there are still the two outer pieces that need filling in. Starting with the driver's side due to its more simple shape. This one I did start with a cardboard template before having a go at the steel. It has a tricky double bend where the two folds are in opposite directions but overlap each other which the cardboard doesn't really conform to very well. This translated to similar problems with the steel and as such I didn't take many photos as I battled to fettle the panel into shape. Eventually though, I got the end piece tacked in place on the end of the centre section and fully welded up. Finally I gave it another test fit. I also folded the lower edge over to match the centre section but I guess I missed the photo of that. It ended up fitting really nice and tight up against the chassis rail and where the flange would be on the outer edge so I'm quite pleased with the result. Moving to the other end, the shape required is quite similar but the panel behind it is a bit different. On the passenger side lies the spare wheel well which had a flange on the rearmost edge for the rear valence to weld to. When I went to start working on the shape of the last piece of the inner valence, I realised just how poor of a state the wheel well panel was in. Being completely honest I fell down a rabbit hole and completely forgot about the rear valence for a while. The first thing I noticed was the signs of weld penetration from a patch panel on the inside. Next was the panel tacked on the outside, presumably covering a rust hole. So switching over to the inside of the wheel well, I hit it with a wire wheel to knock off a lot of the rust and shitty underseal and have a proper look at what I'm dealing with. Which wasn't pretty. There's at least two patches on the tub, one on the outer skin, one on the bottom, and one coming partially up the inner side of the wheel well. So rather than try to unpick everything and try to repair it, I threw a new slitting disk on the grinder and ran it next to the lower seam and bing bang boom, Yeah that's not going to go back together very easily. In any case, here's the panel I'm going to need to recreate somehow: Can you count the layers of patches? This one might be a palmside jobbie yet, but they only have the saloon version available so I might has well have a go myself first since an off the shelf panel will need modifying anyway. She's gonna be a pretty big job. If you made it through that, thanks for reading my typically over explained and lengthy post. Be sure to pipe up in the discussion thread if you have anything you'd like to add. Cheers.
    1 point
  34. MAOGA - Make Auckland Oldschool Great Again note: not any kind of political stance .... let’s just all make Oldschool great again in AK!
    1 point
  35. Theres a new burger fuel in point chev with a decent carpark out front. It's a bit of a lottery as to weather ot not its empty. Most nights by about 7.30 it's fairly free but then some nights it has cars in it. Could be worth a try?
    1 point
  36. Righto, this might be the last update for the moment as it's about as finished as it's going to be for a while. Try and stifle your relief. The tub is sold. Got 400 quid for it which is better than a kick in the nuts. Better make the thing roadworthy again. Because of virus I can't get Steve to do the welding so nuts & bolts it is... Sanded the chassis & got a bit of paint on. Shiny. Chopped the ends off the box section, Painted & bolted down, mocked up the bed frame Run out of excuses to do the electrics so gave it a bash. I don't really get it but how hard can it be ? This was about the time I went in and had some food before I lost the plot & ruined it. One of Carol's pizza's & an ice cream later and I finished the job... They don't all come on at the same time normally, I'm not that useless. Liberated a pile of 1" roofing boards from my Dads barn, pretty fucked but did the first layer side to side & the top layer front to back. It's good & sturdy. Gonna add some tie down rings at some point. Good enough for the moment, would like a hoop, etc, but we're moving soon so I'm going to have to learn proper welding before that happens. Hopefully have a bit more in a few months. Chur.
    1 point
  37. If you've been following my thread about plastic chroming: then you'll know I've been trying to dechrome and rechrome my plastic (ABS) tail light surrounds. It's been a bit of a saga, but I have some positive news. Before the lockdown I gave a test part to an electroplater in Onehunga to try and strip the chrome off without damaging the plastic. I never heard anything and assumed that nothing had happened, so I rolled down at lunchtime today and get it and figure something else out. Turns out he'd given it a go and it started to work fairly well. The main issue was that the surrounds have a significant amount of paint on them, as they were fully chromed from the factory but painted over leaving only the edges exposed. The chemicals he was using wouldn't penetrate the paint to get to the chrome, so I need to fully paint stripped and give it back to him. Compare these two images, the first is the back of the surround where the chrome was thinner and had no paint; the second is front that has some paint - you can see where the chrome is starting to come off but the plater dude didn't leave it in the solution long enough because of the paint issue. I'm pretty confident that once I've got all the paint off, it will not be too difficult to get these back to pure plastic. (I'll upload a pic of the back prior to the stripping after I next visit the garage). Any tips on paint stripping that will be safe on plastic? I've heard DOT 4 brake fluid should be okay, as well as oven cleaner with caustic soda. The only other news is that I finally went into work where I had some stuff waiting for me in the in-tray. Nothing totally exciting really, stuff from the wreckers in Aussie: a non-butchered (due to fitting the boss kit) ignition surround and some good condition door handles. Mine were in a bit of a shit condition and the place I got my bumpers restored at wanted $150 per handle to fix and couldn't guarantee how well they would come out - these were $35 each and look pretty good.
    1 point
  38. Hightailed it down to Whanganui via New Plymouth over the weekend to extract a 4ZD1 engine out of a Trooper. It's 2.3 litre and about 110hp in stock form. Will bolt up to my standard Gem 5-speed and into the bay with the Gem engine mounts. Will probably use the 4ZE1 (2.6) head on it as it has better combustion chambers and way bigger ports. Thanks @alfalfa for helping out.
    1 point
  39. Ordered online from the smits group/spray store website. Prices were what I was happy to pay and from the first place I found shipping. No idea if it's the cheapest or best place to get it. I've been flatting back the clear this weekend, gave that bog trick a go and it does work pretty well, but was super slow going. I later went back and re watched the video, he started sanding with wet 320 and said you could even use 240 and best I had was 400 so that's probably why, I was getting worried that the extra effort required to cut down through the filler would end up with me rubbing through the clear on the perimeter of the filler. Didn't happen thankfully. But since I noticed all the runs while I was still painting and stacked on a few extra layers, it's actually been really easy to cut them out with a careful hand and just the wet sand paper. I havnt been able to track down any razors, but I'm not sure I'll need them. Results so far are super good and it's looking like the whole job may come out bloody nice once finished. About 35% done with flattening the car, then have to move through the gritts which will be pretty quick. Then polishing fun, which, fingers crossed will be super rewarding after all the work.
    1 point
  40. Bought pretty much everything suggested above, went for the toolpro polisher because it had good reviews and a good throw on it couldnt find anything better for the budget. and a bottle of megs 105 and 205 + appropriate pads for each compound. looking forward to doing both the crown and the corona now. cheers for the advice once again. think ive done all the buying now and need to do the hard work of actually using it all now.
    1 point
  41. Would pay to get a quote for sandblast. Make sure its a company familiar with doing cars. Youll get 20 min into it with the wire wheel and realise its a massive ball ache.
    1 point
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