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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/02/20 in all areas

  1. It's, umm, substantially bigger. Dropped it in the hole, jumped the gun a bit. Needs to go back another 150mm, but need to remove old mounts as the oil filter fouls on them. I'll need to fit a Z700 (Cortina) oil filter for more room. Tunnel appears to have enough clearance. Much better than that other engine
    7 points
  2. A fair bit has been done since the last update. I spoke to Trevor at Holden Diagnostics. We agreed that the tune was causing the issues, and he could sort it out. The guy who did the original tune has been known to have trouble with VT engines. I had a bunch of people coming round from work on Saturday night and wanted the car running. Trevor sent me a spare memcal and said send your old one back when all is good. Thursday night I fitted the new for the water pump. The old one looked pretty tired. I put the throttle body and everything else back together and fired it up. Then swapped out the Memcal and all good. I spend a lot of Saturday working on the car. a couple of hours went into getting the wiper motor fitted. I had made up an adapter plate ages ago which was fine. The challenge was getting clearance for the motor body on one side and the actuator arm in the plenum chamber on the other side. Using a couple of washers under one side of the adapter plate did the trick. Sorry no photos. I also put in my Dakota Digital interface box to make the speedo work. This is mounted behind where the kick panel will be. Hopefully it wont be annoyingly loud. To night, June 30, had been my goal date to have the car finished. I finished off the wiring for the wiper motor back to the switch, installed the instrument panel, and went for a drive. I consider this a win. It has got some real get up and go, the brakes actually work pretty good and the steering is OK. The exhaust is too loud, so a balance pipe will get made, the engine idles at about 1200 in drive, I'll have to work that out, and there are still lots of finishing off things to do. Not to mention registration and certification. Here is the view from the drivers seat
    4 points
  3. Since ive padded out airbox as a seat ive been out on a few hoons, it handles so well i leaned it over so far the other night i bottomed out the rear of the Hardtail, taller rear tyre will move this up about 40 mm and fix the proportions, bloody keen to get it on a go kart track.
    2 points
  4. I don't mean to alarm you, but you appear to have replaced a stale turd with a slightly fresher one.
    2 points
  5. The following jetting, apparently gives excellent throttle response, very smooth idling and excellent pickup on secondaries. For a stock 3.3l Crossflow Motor. Primary Idle: 75 (70 factory fitment) Secondary Idle: 65 (60 factory fitment) Primary Fuel: 140 (135 factory fitment?) Secondary Fuel: 220 Primary Air: 160 (160 factory fitment) Secondary Air: 180 (160 factory fitment) Taken from http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/8610-weber-carb-34adm-master-thread/ And http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/7026-ford-registered-technician-bulletin-34-adm-weber-carb/
    2 points
  6. Shits sorted, I stripped and checked the clappers, all is well. I have paid less for entire functioning cars than I did for the brake pads in there, bitches better be good. The only thing holding me back from assembling it all is finding the correct rod end for the drag link, as I have modded the y60 drag link to suit the steering box setup I want to continue using it. This means sourcing a rod end; left hand thread, M22 x 1.5 male, taper to suit Y61 axles. This is proving more difficult than I imagined. There is one out of a Nissan Condor that might do it - SE4381L, but I might need to buy one to check the taper. Anyone have any hints? I am wait for a reply from Superior Engineering in Oz, we will see.
    2 points
  7. Here's a tool I've been making recently. I still need to make a good handle for it, but to be honest the cap screw is probably stronger than any handle I could make. The clutch in the middle is hardened to reduce the risk of galling when it slips (adjustable preload, allows slipping when die binds or you hit a shoulder)
    2 points
  8. It's off the rotisserie for now! Needed to sort out the driveshaft which require the engine and gearbox to go back in. Got the axles sent away to be shortened and resplined by 105mm a side. That meant I should make an attempt at swapping the Altezza LSD and the 4.1 CWP into the diff head. No pics because I didn't really know what I was doing. But for those that are interested I ended up using the LSD side bearings and swapped the Estima pinion bearings onto the 4.1 pinion. The Altezza pinion bearings where thicker which made the pinion gear hit the diff case. I couldn't get the wear pattern right because I didn't have any shims other than the two that were already on the pinions. Got it close enough for the time being, will buy some shims or give it to someone else to finish off. Decided to run Coil-on-plugs instead of the dizzy relocation kit, mostly just to keep the engine bay looking simple and clean. Got a set of 1NZ coils, I'm thinking of casting up an adapter plate for them. Got the SQ engineering down-pull throttle linkage installed and got the accelerator cable shortened to suit. Made a vacuum block off plate, since I hope none of that stuff is needed anymore. Also at some stage I filled all the unneeded holes in the front radiator panel. Modded the accelerator pedal so it sits a bit closer to the other pedals, as before it was way off to the right. Two-piece driveshaft all mounted now too! Think I got the angles sorted after spending far too long trying to work it all out. It's an Altezza driveshaft with the front half shortened (yes I know the front section u-joint phasing is 90° out). In this photo you can also notice the sills have been strengthened (somehow missed that update somewhere). Used some 3mm angle and welded it the full length and ground back, so it's now really straight! Then boxed it back up to the floor, to try and stop dirt and moisture getting stuck in behind. Makes lifting the car along there way nicer! This is the centre bearing support mount, much thought was also put into this! Hopefully it's fine being welded to the seatbelt mounts haha. Still needs some doubler plates welded on to the other side of the tunnel.
    2 points
  9. One side of the exhaust is all together, will get some black paint before final fitting Front Pipe Tail pipe in mid build Finished tail pipe L Lots of time spent putting all the bits together. The second side should be much faster as there is more space around the tank and because we have an idea where the pipe will go. I haven't decided if I'm going to run a cross over pipe, probably see how loud it is, also if it sounds funny. All the other Holden V8's I have had were dual exhaust with a balance pipe. The other thing I finished was the Steering wheel and adapting the ring off the LC Torana steering wheel to the EJ Wheel. Both wheels have the same spline and depth so that was a good start. I had to grind off part of the center of the wheel to get the plastic ring to fit. Then made up a spacer to hold the ring off the bottom of the wheel. I didn't take photos because grinding with a power file looked like a hungry rat had been busy. The self cancelling worked perfectly, but no circuit through to the horn. After dicking around, pulling stuff apart I found the wires under the dashboard hadn't been connected. A couple of connectors and all tests out OK. Still have to buy a horn to make noise. The guy with the Hillman Imp van is booked to do the Windscreen and rear window next week. I'm going to chase Robinson's Instruments for my fuel sender and the auto sparkie for teh alternator tomorrow. Also going to order the drive box for the speedo, the Dakota Digital one has a lot of good reviews. Just weighting for the Visa card to roll to get the bill in to next month. Here's a photo of the steering wheel
    2 points
  10. So I dropped a decent chunk of cash today and picked up a 1970 RT80 corona rolling body. Car is set up and certified for a 12A. A few of you may know this car already. I hope to do it justice. Good Points: Fairly recent panel and paint which i would give a 7.5/10 Hilux rear diff with disk brake rear end Decent chrome bumpers and tail lights Reg on hold Certified for 12A Full certified professionally built long header exhaust Mostly new suspension components It's pretty much all there minus engine, gearbox, radiator and fuel pump Brand new 14" modgies and falken tyres. I say a good point because it's got them, but i plan to get rid of them and get something along the lines of starsharks or meshies A decent stack of receipts Nice black vinyl reclining bucket seats that actually look all good Came with C0R0TA personalised plates. Not sure if i'll keep them but if i do i'll get the re-made with the new JDM style plates. Bad Points: Most of the window and door rubbers are stuffed Paint job does show a few small signs of having not been a high cost job (was done through a professional shop just on the cheap i think but pretty good) Certified for a 12A which means I either have to find a 12A or enough parts to build one OR go to a 13B and re-cert. Cert was done a while ago and will need more work for a new cert Grille was re painted and the clear coats apparently reacted and gone yellow. Gearbox tunnel has been hacked up and made bigger to suit the series 1 gear box but it's been done like shit Interiors pretty fucked, dash is stuffed, heaters gone, no carpet, rear seat has standard cracking up the top, front door cards have holes for speakers etc. When you wind down the drivers side window it pushes the door handle open and opens the door. So i've already ordered the door window rubbers and the front windshield rubber, will likely order the rear window rubber and the door rubbers tomorrow. I have a baby due in 4 weeks so this won't be back on the road in a few days but hopefully i'll be able to get her tidy and sort and engine so i can re build it and have it read for summer. I need some input from people on whether to bother with the 12A or just build a healthy 13B and re-cert. I have bid on a series 1 gearbox to go in her so hopefully i'll win that. I also need to know what people think as it has NO mirrors i need something. I'm thinking of fitting a pair of these "JDM style racing mirrors" on the guards but i'm not sure if i should go for guard mirrors or door mirrors and chrome, black or grey? Chuck me some ideas! https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-JDM-Style-Black-Fender-Mount-Side-Mirrors-PAIR-UNIVERSAL-FIT-Racing-Mirror-/332716026566 More pics to come tomorrow
    1 point
  11. ,---Edit 29/10/18--- apologies for distinct lack of pictures, photo hosting site I was using ceased existing, and a majority of pics went with it...... Well guys, after years of saying I was gonna do it, Im ACTUALLY doing it. Bought a 1922 Buick model 45 cowl for $150, its in pretty good nick for its Then got a chassis out of a 1st gen L200 Sport for $90 Cost $140 to redo the lower inner, radius rod, sway bar and sway bar link bushes. Found some shorter springs at the junkyard...freebie Rolling stock are standard Mitsi L200 4wd rims painted gloss red with 225/75/15s on the rear and 185/60/15 fronts. No V8 motorvating this...... Mighty 3.3 and trimatic cost $240out of a 79 VB Commodore, (I thought I was a Ford guy WTF????) Good ol tardme.... While Picking the engine and box up from Auckland the guy produced an ultra rare Lynx 186 manifold complete with 2 matching original 2" SU carbs and brand new filters (surface rust of course....)......Best score so far....$150!!!!!! Will take a pic soon. Reason for the six is its different, cheap to run and cost knaff all. And with a V8 in a 109" wheelbase rod it would look kinda stupid Headers and EH 179 sump and pickup to make a rear bulge pan.... $5 This weekends mish is remove the front, intermediate and deck mounts and throw the engine/box in the frame. Its a big project........
    1 point
  12. So after selling my old ke35 in Nz around 9 years ago I’d always pondered getting another one. This one popped up on gumtree over here for $7500 and after a quick phonecall to the owner I pulled the trigger and bought it sight unseen. It has a few minor rust spots that he sent me photos of and a rebuilt small port 4age with 264 cams, wolf ecu and extractors backed up by a t50 gearbox. Fingers crossed it’s half as good as the photos make it out. Future plans I’m undecided. Originally I was thinking slam on 13” work equips, ssr’s or equivalent but depending on cleanliness I may just tidy up the rust spots and lower and keep as is. Should be in my possession around the 30th of June.
    1 point
  13. Oh well I'll carry on. Massive thanks to @Transom. I had a nice delivery today
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. Roger that. I'll see if I can fix it
    1 point
  16. Man this would be cool hidden under a lambretta frame or similar
    1 point
  17. Do we need a back up vehicle to carry the back up bikes?
    1 point
  18. And long range alchohol safe adventure tank fitted and plumbed! Need to trim my fuel line a bit and fit a 90 degree end to it but you get the idea, deck needs a slight trim then can bolt back on. Will put some pegs on as well...... one day.
    1 point
  19. I could probably have a CT available as a dud back up bike.
    1 point
  20. Do we have a backup bike sorted or should I chuck a new belt on smokey sue mk2 for 55kph of small wheeled punishment
    1 point
  21. How good is the Friday night soggy biscuit gonna be
    1 point
  22. Damn Matt...You really are doing a hell of a job on this bro, good shit!
    1 point
  23. I'm calling it done; nothing says finished quite like mismatching grey paint and a pin-up girl decal.
    1 point
  24. In my last post I thought I'd made the idle better, but it turned out I just made the car idle faster when warm and hardly run at all when cold. So I kept researching. Most results relate to the more-popular V12 engine, and you also have to contend with the fact that the AJ6 had at least two different fuel injection systems on it over the years, with and without various anti-pollution devices. Here I've removed more of the intake bits to check for gunk and vacuum leaks: Some crankcase oil must end up condensing on the throttle plate and running down into the throttle position sensor mounted underneath it (TPS arrowed, throttle assembly shown upside down): I cleaned the TPS and measured its resistance. It seemed correct and linear except slightly higher at idle than immediately off idle. I measured and adjusted the throttle plate gap, reassembled everything and followed the idle setting procedure. Basically you fake the coolant temperature reading to cause the idle stepper motor to close, then you unplug that and set the base idle speed with the air bypass adjustment screw. I couldn't quiiiite achieve a low-enough base idle even with the air bypass fully closed, which I guess isn't ideal. The idle speed seems good now (hot and cold), but the car still struggles into life if it hasn't been started in a day or two and its idle still stumbles a bit. I tried new plugs and I tried spraying flammable stuff all around the intake to check for more leaks, but no luck. The next step of the idle setting procedure is to check the exhaust CO at idle, but I'll obviously need to find a shop to do that. I think you adjust the CO with a calibration screw on the airflow meter. My iteration of the AJ6 engine has no exhaust gas oxygen sensor, therefore I guess it just bases the fuelling on the AFM reading, a wing and a prayer? (fun fact - this is better than the early AJ6 EFI which just used manifold vacuum with no possibility for calibration - the vacuum would deteriorate at quite low mileages because the engine's valves didn't seal very well, or something nightmarish along those lines...) Anyway, my aftermarket electric aerial destroyed itself already. A piece of a little cog broke off and jammed the big cog..... ....but the Jaguar inline fuse did not blow. Instead the motor got very hot and began to melt the surrounding plastic, until a wire connected to the motor burned through. Electric aerials are very important and I couldn't deal with mine being out of action, so I bought another of the same brand. When I opened it up to oil the crap out of it, I noticed it had been revised - the cog which broke in the old one is now made out of a black material in the new one. Hmmm. Also, I spotted this XJ-S (not mine) with a lame personalised plate: It looks like they've parked their planet-pillaging V12 in a bay reserved for bicycles only, which of course they could get away with....because they've got a Jaaaaaaag.
    1 point
  25. So I'm a retard and didn't connect the fuel to the inlet so the bowl was dry, it was connected to a vac port and sucking fuel in through the vac hose on the inlet lol. it runs less badly now, rill rev out if gently open the throttle but if you give it a stab it backfires. will need to re figure out the vacuum lines and get a wideband (and get into the injection as thats easier for me to understand) and see if it is lean or rich on accel
    1 point
  26. Yep, goes in the tailstock drill chuck, it's free to move on the arbor. Back half takes 2" dies, front half takes 1" dies. I still need to make adapters for 13/16", 1.3" and 1.5", but the cost of dies is so crazy that I probably won't make them until I need to. I had a test hoon with it earlier, it cuts like 80 mm of M8 thread in about 10 seconds. Single point threading that length would take me forever and probably turn to shit due to part deflection.
    1 point
  27. Is it designed to go in the tailstock and cut threads on a bar held in your lathe chuck Bazza? Looks like you've done a great job of making it.
    1 point
  28. Twins FTW Strombergs or SU's of course /ling
    1 point
  29. For some reason this thing came with the wrong alternator pulley. It had a 13A belt pulley and the rest of the engine needs an 11A belt so I ordered a new dual row pulley from franklin engineering. Top notch stuff they make and seriously reasonable prices for quality Nz made products. Ordered an oil sender block at the same time to run my oil pressure and temp gauge senders. Will fit that in the next couple of days.
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. Right, babies 2 weeks old now so can continue playing with this thing. Worked our I’m still not getting full throttle. It goes well but not as fast as it should. Had a look at the accelerator pedal, found the problem. FUCK OFF, seriously?! Never have I spoken a truer word..... Made a nice new one and gave it more pedal travel. Guess what, full throttle now actually makes power, real power! Wheel spinning, ear grinning neck turning power. I’m a happy man.
    1 point
  32. Got it out this weekend.... had reset the tune on it and it starts/idles alot better, still not perfect without ICAV but good enough.... trying to track down a log manifold so I can setup an O2 to do some proper logging/tuning. Also, when I did my sale inspection I noticed a decent amount of water collecting in the bilge. Mr mechanic seller wasnt to phased and was happy to use the pump most of the time to clear the bilge, I used this to negotiate thinking that either the jet unit for the bolts holding the keel plastic on would need resealed. Turns out the solution is way easier... water is fair pissing out of the lower seal on the sandtrap. Where the seal fits to the housing was loaded up with old silt and preventing it from sealing (likely pulled apart in a hurry and never cleaned), likewise the seals are old and caked up with grit. Should be an easy fix....
    1 point
  33. Did some more digging. Managed to make it a bit better with hammer and dolly. Weld up the holes. Power file
    1 point
  34. bump - I sold this about 1.5 years ago when I needed some coin to do grown up things (renovate house) regretted it deeply, this weekend just been I went and picked it back up off the guy who I sold it to. it now has a vvt-i 1jzgte and MAXX ECU all scratch built loom by nz wiring, that about all he changed, got raised up and put on some china 17x9's. while I was in wellington I picked up a set of bcnr33 wheels and slapped them on it and lowered it back down to a semi acceptable height. The plans are smash an r154 in it before I blow up the w58 doing silly stuff, then later on I will put a TD06 on it and hopefully make around 350kw just for shits and gigs, also potentially some 15's of some sort again would be nice. will also unyucky the intercooler pipes. Couple of pics from before I sold it with 9j mk1 on the back and current pics, needs to come down 6mm or so in the back to get it sitting level
    1 point
  35. Much success! Got a VIN, Wof and Reg today! All ticked off and ready to roll. Now time for a few mods, Artillieries, whitewalls, hub caps and beauty rings Split manifold and exhaust Fit the Fulton Visor Lower Then she be ready for summer cruising.
    1 point
  36. Wrapped the exhaust as i didn't want it to cook the alternator or starter Blocked off a couple of vacuum hoses and rangid up a fuel supply I've got 11ty vacuum leaks but it's running pretty well considering. I need to replace the engine mounts too as they are super soft.
    1 point
  37. Progress is happening on the rust!! WooT!! Also went to do finally assembly on subframe today and had a bit of a hiccup with some nuts and washers, even though I gave the nut and washers to the guy to match, he still got them wrong, cue RAGE QUIT. (probably exacerbated by cunt of a job it is to get the lower suspension arms in, 4 things have to line up and they don't) But at least I got the brakes back together.
    1 point
  38. Picked up some good quality window tint from @Archetype. As expected I wasn't able to do a good job of the rear screen and I'm happy to pay someone to do that later on, but the sides went flawlessly and I'm so pleased I opted to tint the car. Should help heaps with it being an oven in summer. The car is all but complete and back together, things lefts are to cut back the orange peel and buff it aswell as fit the manual trans. l
    1 point
  39. My junk made it into Street Machine
    1 point
  40. Done! I took my kids around the hills last night and it blew their minds! They can't remember a time when it wasn't stuck in the garage so it was pretty cool. Big thanks to all you folks on here, you've been a huge help with advice/parts/motivation! Future plans are to finish tidying up the little bits of rust, throw in a 3.9 rear end that @Barnz.NZ helped me out with, maybe pop on some fender mirrors and debate if she should go low... But for now its time to eat up some miles!
    1 point
  41. Quick update driveshaft in oil lines plumbed exhaust bolted up heater hose plug in oil in the engine coolant in the radiator not much left now, basically mount and plumb fuel pump and do the wiring of which most of it’s there. Exciting times!
    1 point
  42. Had some real progress this week. Front and rear windscreens in and exhaust built. It is really looking like a car. I had Jeremy from Bespoke Auto Glass come and do the windows, Back one went in piece of cake, front is a real prick because of the trim. The trim goes into the rubber then the whole lot goes into the car. Very glad I got the expert for this job. The Drivers side tail pipe can be seen poking out behind the rear wheel. And the other side I also played around with the height of the from of the car. Ground clearance at the lowest point, under the sway bar mounts and the transmission is only 75mm. I left a jack under the cross member and set it for 125mm clearance. Tyre is still under the guard. I have ordered proper LH Torana V8 lowered King Springs. They should get me the extra height. If not enough I can put higher profile tires on, there is plenty of clearance with the car raised up. My son was helping me the other night He has grown a bit since the last photo
    1 point
  43. Both back sections of the floor done. Has an exhaust tunnel through it to suit a duel 2" system, should be able to tuck it right up above the chassis rails. Sills and chassis rails are now the lowest point in the middle section of the car. Made a rear strut brace to strengthen the upper shock mounts and to accommodate the extra load of coilovers. Made the exhaust tunnel through the front foot well too. Notched out the crossmember above the diff for clearance. Made a mount for a Wilwood pedal box, need to figure out where to put the reservoirs and move the accelerator pedal over a little. Raised the spare wheel well up 60mm to fit a larger fuel tank. Was a good chance to also drill out the spot welds on that centre mount and tidy up the rust that was forming in between.
    1 point
  44. Bought a set 13x6.5 Work Equip 01's. Will refurbish them and then decide if I want to run them. Also scored this off Yahoo Auctions a while back. Has the plugs and also came with some black dash parts. Decided on how to raise the tunnel. Bent the handbrake section up to match the height of where the old gearbox tunnel top piece had to go. Then made up some filler pieces to fill the gaps. Plan was to keep it looking as factory as possible. Had to remake the crossmember as it needed to be built up higher. Used some tube that matched the radius and bent it to suit. Welded in filler pieces. Cleaned up. Next was to make some strips to fill in the sides. Had contemplated making them with the factory swagings, but decided it would be easier to flatten them out and make the strips flat. Then the tunnel to firewall gap needed filling. Made a paper template, transferred it to the steel, cut it, formed it and it nearly fitted perfectly first try. All cleaned up. Up next was the firewall cutout for the dizzy blank cover to sit in. Tried again to make it look factory, which I think turned out pretty good. Stripped out all the sound deadening with dry ice. Have only cleaned off the residue from the passengers seat and footwell area. Pulled out all the wiring as well. Need a F-series diff now.
    1 point
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