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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/26/20 in all areas

  1. Big thanks to Drew (vk327 on here) for whipping up looms for me and the brother. While I'm sure an LS1 loom isnt toooooo hard, these later model engine ones turned out to be relatively complex and I am so fucking glad I didn't bother attempting it. There are a few little quirks that would have 100% caught me out, like the fact that my loom that came with engine was missing plugs and shit. Drew knows all the ins and outs which meant that the final product is essentially as good as it can possibly be for tuneability and coolcuntness. ECU/PCM now has base tune on it to roughly match cam, so I should be able to drive it down to the tuners for a tidy up and the all important power/torque figures. I should probably do a skid soon.
    9 points
  2. this was sorta the look i was going for this has a different front end off i dont know what, which gives it an 18" wheel, but ill stick with the 19 to keep things simple. the fact the 3.5" tyre bit was a bonus, i didnt think it was going going so was a bit of a risk. I picked up this haggard but good running 2002 XR200r for $300 Whipped the engine and loom out, then promptly sold the rest of the bike to a bloke for $550, good old PPSC special, buy for cheaps, sell for heaps. once i get the hoop made and whip up a fibreglass base, then hope to smash together a black suede seat Still deciding what to do with the engine aesthetically. either paint black with stainless bolts and polished fins on the head only, or go out and do some polished side covers as well, currently unsure, i do think this looks petty rad: . Will update once the rear hoops done this sunday hopefully
    8 points
  3. 2020-06-26_08-08-47 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Finished. Tyres and stickers. Good.
    8 points
  4. Had really bad health issues so wasn't doing anything for some time, then i sold the v8 to make way for a 1kzte. I've gone back to uni to finish a postgrad so the car is just chilling in the garage while I scrape together some shekels for bits and pieces.
    8 points
  5. Went to buzz bug this arvo to borrow a kombi Bell housing, ended up with a small pocket haemorrhage... Also did a compression test.. front two cylinders 125 each, not bad, Rear two 90 and...0. There's ya problem.
    7 points
  6. Thanks again to everyone who provided me with guidance. I can confirm that the distributor drive shaft was one tooth out. I flipped it a tooth and now the factory timing marks line up. Took it for a quick spin and it is like driving a totally different car. No more miss fire. Pulled a plug after the drive and noticed it's running a bit lean, so tweaked the mixture a wee bit. I'll monitor the plugs for a few days in case it needs a bit more tweaking.
    5 points
  7. When looking for an XR200 engine this CT185 popped up on here. grabbed it for the engine which was supposed to be an XR200 but was actually a lame mishmash of Xl185/ATC200 parts with boring cam and compression so that went under the bench, but thought i might try work with the frame, which was worked out alright, just needs a new rear section. Rear hoop and stays got hacked off, new one getting made this weekend. to make the front end work with the CG tank without smashing the shit out of it / having no lock i needed so offset triples. after oodles of searching what would fit nicely i found some 80's CB125T triples, snapped them up and whacked them on and was golden. good lock and no knock. You can see here i have whacked some classy golden boys on as well. 3.5-19" front and 4.0-19" rear. front only just fits, but ive got a bit of a plan here to get some more clearance and will run incise dust caps.
    5 points
  8. Guess what? I have done this! I have a s/c 14 on a datsun A14 in a 1200 sedan. It goes like last weeks pay.
    5 points
  9. Soooo... Something has happened that I really didn't want to happen... but now that it has, I'm quite happy about it... I left the bike with Bucket Barry over the lockdown with some loose instructions on what I wanted. He had plenty of lock-down time and I had to work through. When I picked it up after lockdown, it had some sweet new camshafts. Dad had a spare FXR150 in the shed that didn't owe him much money, so I brought the engine from it. The further I got down the rabbit hole with the TF, the more I could see that it was going to take huge amounts of development time to get it remotely competitive. I was sick of getting my arse kicked / not finishing races / spending all my shed time on this thing when I've got other projects. Theoretically now it should start every time I push it out of the shed, not rattle itself to pieces and be very competitive. I've done a test day on it and am absolutely stoked. I also changed it to a race shift setup (1-up, 5-down) which will take a bit of getting used to. First race is on Sunday, hopefully it goes well. It might need a name change now, "The penetrator" doesn't seem appropriate given the extra strokes. Maybe it should be "The Wank".
    3 points
  10. The ticket is the same regardless of how many lvvta rules you break, might as well goto town
    3 points
  11. Project other is going all right. So I bought some wheels. I've long lusted after a set of SSR Type C, however do not like the price that tidy examples command. Some chance Facebook Marketplacing saw these things turn up. The description simply read: Honda wheels 17-inch. Coaxing the seller through a few extra pics confirmed they were SSR Type C, 17x7.5-inch forged wheels. They weigh 5kg a piece. They looked rough. I bought them for next to nothing, and did a roadtrip to Wellington to get them the first weekend we hit Level 2. Great idea to also get out of Auckland, get some driving in, and see some people I hadn't in a really long time. This is what I got. 98272862_10216632842556010_1422751630977138688_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr Assorted tyre sizes. Pretty haggard in the paint department. Some of Australias finest export quality matte black I expect. 99048908_10216650052466247_8180097297808359424_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr With the tyres off things didn't get any less ugly. The full scope of the repairs needed started to become apparent, more of which is detailed below. 99006202_10216650056026336_8451286377600909312_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr 99078092_10216650054786305_4216971291200061440_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr 99138489_10216650053066262_530452122030833664_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr 100086434_10216650053946284_2533449599859818496_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr And more. But anyway I dropped these into Wheelfixit in Wairau for a look and a quote, turned out they were totally repairable and it wasn't even very expensive. Step 3, was acid dipping, kindly taken care of by Kwik Strip in Te Atatu. Again, bargain prices and criminally fast turnaround. As in, these were done in the space of several hours. 100597172_10216707809990149_7015287452575203328_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr 101063927_10216707810710167_197262320282370048_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr 99291047_10216707810350158_3946752332850528256_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr Some were worse than others, with signs of surface corrosion evident on some of the wheels. I also cleaned up the kerb damage on the one non-bent wheel by gently filing and sanding, enough so that the lip retained it's profile and was not 'flattened' too much. But then, for my final trick, paint. Of course I suck at paint. But I know some blokes who don't. Ben and Nick took the job on for me, and gave em a splash with Porsche Weissgold, with a satin clear over the top. To say I am stoked on the result would be an understatement. 101952115_10216857720217811_7586636871987907807_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr 104433228_10216857720617821_5444337198238180490_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr 102458703_10216857721577845_1496879978836587088_o by Richard Opie, on Flickr And that's that, so far. I am going to get some stickers for them in due time, and probably some tyres. Run em for a bit then put them up for sale to the period-correct JDM piners. Unless I decide I quite like 17s and keep them on. But 16s was probably the ideal... anyway, thanks for looking.
    3 points
  12. I'm calling on some advice from those that know the Mini A series engine a bit better than I do. Mrs Flash owns a 1974 1100cc Mini Moke that we bought a while back. There are signs that the engine has been apart before and it’s always suffered with an intermittent misfire that new plugs, points and condenser didn’t solve. I figured if I ignored it long enough, it might go away, but sadly not. The misfire got steadily worse and then last week it got to the point where it died and it was a battle to re-start it. When it did eventually start it sounded really sick. So I figured it was high time that I investigated the issue. As a first step I popped a timing light on and noticed that at idle the timing mark was intermittently jumping around. I then pulled the distributor out and discovered a huge amount of play in the distributor shaft. I decided to invest in a new 45D electronic distributor rather than having my tired old 29D refurbished. The new distributor arrived yesterday afternoon and I set about installing it this morning. It's at this point that things started to get interesting. When I went to re-fresh the timing marks on the flywheel with a bit of white paint I discovered that the dull painted marks placed by a previous owner are not actually on the correct flywheel factory markings. I decided to ignore these home-made marks and proceeded to use the factory flywheel timing marks to setup the engine at the correct position for cylinder 1 using the procedure outlined in my Moke repair manual (cylinder 1 at TDC on compression stroke with factory TDC flywheel timing mark aligned with the pointer). I then installed the new distributor and it's at this point that things became really interesting. My repair manual states that with cylinder 1 set to TDC the key at the bottom of the distributor should align with the slot in the distributor drive shaft and the rotor should point at roughly the 1 o'clock position. In my case with the new distributor snuggly fitted into the distributor drive shaft slot the rotor points at the 3 o'clock position. This, together with the presence of the home made timing marks on the flywheel has got me wondering whether at some point in the past the gear at the end of the distributor driveshaft has been set a tooth out. Does this sound like a reasonable assumption ? Thanks for reading Picture of Moke as everyone likes pictures.
    2 points
  13. Boot floor, light cluster and fuel filler turret just about finished off. Slow progress with it being made up of fairly complex shapes.
    2 points
  14. Woo hoo. Got this going over lock down. Put a new set of Eagle HT leads on as the old ones were tracking. Dropped the car off at the dyno shop on Sunday night, the drive there was a bit fraught. The car backfired into the intake and shot the caps off a couple of vacuum ports, I pulled the overflow hose off the radiator and plugged the hose tails with it on the side of the road, called it good and carried on. Was worried all yesterday. But. Good news. All went well! Gary adjusted things to 231.8 hp at about 4700 rpm and 274 ft lbs at 4700 rpm, Has max torque from about 3000 to 4700. It's 30 hp more than previous. The G3 works awesomely. Apparently it has ended up with a very unusual advance curve feels like it works well though, very well. Apparently there is about %20 driveline loss with a dyno like this so my 231 hp eguates to about 275 flywheel hp, on par with an E48 Charger! but with a 4/1bbl carb and sausage cooking gas! Anyway heres some pics of a couple of graphs. Apparently the hub dyno wouldn't fit into my low wheel arches with out the body being jacked up which caused the dyno to rattle a bit. I'm told thats why the line is a bit wobbly. Wobbly lines or not, it goes really really well now. Smooth, powerful, and lots of torque. Super pleased. The yellow line is the shit original "rebuilt motor" Red is the re rebuilt motor and Link G3 looking after timing.
    2 points
  15. bump - I sold this about 1.5 years ago when I needed some coin to do grown up things (renovate house) regretted it deeply, this weekend just been I went and picked it back up off the guy who I sold it to. it now has a vvt-i 1jzgte and MAXX ECU all scratch built loom by nz wiring, that about all he changed, got raised up and put on some china 17x9's. while I was in wellington I picked up a set of bcnr33 wheels and slapped them on it and lowered it back down to a semi acceptable height. The plans are smash an r154 in it before I blow up the w58 doing silly stuff, then later on I will put a TD06 on it and hopefully make around 350kw just for shits and gigs, also potentially some 15's of some sort again would be nice. will also unyucky the intercooler pipes. Couple of pics from before I sold it with 9j mk1 on the back and current pics, needs to come down 6mm or so in the back to get it sitting level
    2 points
  16. So my expensive engine mounts from the USA were shit. They looked nice but engine was high and way off centre. I tried my hardest to accept it and move on but fuck that. Made new engine mounts that sit engine about 30mm lower and way more central. In the interests of making the certifier think I’m not a cefiro person, I tried to make them look ok. Had very limited resources as can’t buy stuff in lockdown so it’s made from 2” pipe and a mix of 10 and 5mm plate. I kept the old Sikky urethanes just cos then it’s not a complete waste of money? It’s welded to fuck so shouldn’t let go anytime soon... currently getting the paint baked on.
    2 points
  17. Stink buzz ow. My prefered beater used to work out of a building in the car park of the car park of the former hillsbourough tavern. (behind the challenge on port hills rd) He does a really good job, and doesn't charge the earth. I've not been down thre for a while, so I'm not sure if he's still working out of there of not. Guys name is Jeff. If he's still working out of that shed, I'd use him again in a heartbeat. He did a real nice job of my VG. And an even better job of the old man's 68 plymouth fury.
    2 points
  18. Wanted a reliable wof/reg do anything dualsport adventure bike. Kinda wanted a dr650 but totally failed and bought an 04 ktm 525exc instead. Its pretty much as per standard except for ohlins steering dampener. Hopefully can get it road legal but even If that fails I'll still be super happy. It's probably gutless to some, but for me it's just intoxicating- and now that I know how great the current knobbies are, it seems a shame to put road legal rubber on. 61hp and 112kg dry, so goes a bit better than a dr650 at 37hp and 160kg (from memory) So far I have bought a cool dual sport helmet, some decent boots, handle bar control switches, a cush rear sprocket, factory indicators from a ktm Duke, some t6 aluminium to make a new side stand, a folding aluminium ramp, a center stand lift thing and a pair of pirelli mt21 tires (road legal) Here's some pics from the past week, thanks to @64valiant for assisting with pickup, driving and providing clear and correct directional information.
    1 point
  19. Hi everyone. Heres a few photos of one of my Vals. Nothing to special, mods to date.... 265, HE49 cam 465 cfm Holley on a L O N G manifold. Long tube Headders, 2 1/4" pipe. Factory electronic ignition. W50 box Borg Warner diff with VL 3.45 gears and LSD. Hype 15"superlites. Discuss https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28091-valiants-valiant/
    1 point
  20. anyone got a source for small "plate topper" sized "fuck 1080" stickers? gotta blend in with the locals
    1 point
  21. Plates on. Passola was easy, but the Honda was a fuck around because it had no rear end left. Someone must have back flipped it? So Milling action shots. Cheap trademe indicators adapted to fit. Boom! Job done...
    1 point
  22. Nah mate, you drive, I drink. Drunken rail Barry sharns ahoy!
    1 point
  23. Might need that transparent floor installed so you can see the track when launching
    1 point
  24. And Im back, actually been doing a bit of work on this. Previous plans have led to abject failure, so have taken a deep plunge to do this right, once (although cheaped out on gearbox a bit) Have started selling off most of the engine bits and gearbox shown in previous posts here, and Im sure I will be left with a pile that will be added to the cupboard of broken dreams.. If anyone needs a new T3/T4 turbo, eboost 2 , tubosmart wastegate and bov... all for sale and more, listing in FS sooon. I have bought a Mendeola 2D box with a vertigate shifter, pro ringed, spool set up. Not new, but the previous owner put 980hp to the wheels through it, so it should hold up. Also bought a new engine, it is 3 months away, basic specs are 90 stroke x 109.5 bore , G42-1450 turbo, methanol injected (8 injector set up). Going away from any thoughts of street driven to dedicated drag car. Pic is similar to what it is, without the mount and inlet/exhaust going the other way for a rear engined set up. There is potential for a lot more HP than I think I will be able to put through the chassis I have. Longer term a tube frame chassis may be the go. I started this thread 7 years ago..... pre death is now the goal...
    1 point
  25. Two things: 1, the flywheel can slip on the crankshaft rendering the timing marks useless. 2, the intermediate dizzy adapter drive ( the bit that has the gear on the bottom and slot at the top) can be installed incorrectly.. 2 is more likely than 1, and given your description sounds like it could be a tooth out. Which means you run short of timing adjustment on the mounting slot. The above suggestions from @RUNAMUCK and @nzstatoare definitely all good, I would start with a tdc vs crank position check because it's easy, and sometimes crank pulley removal can suck with the engine in the car, bearing in mind you cannot 100% trust flywheel marks. You could also add some fresh tdc and 10 degree marks to the crank pulley area as a rough timing light guide. EDIT: if the chain slackness is of concern perhaps watching the dizzy rotor or rocker gear whilst turning the motor clockwise and then anticlockwise slightly would give you an indication of timing gear wear.
    1 point
  26. I'd poke a drinking straw down number one spark plug hole, and see where actual tdc is.
    1 point
  27. Convert it back to left hand drive and piston power!
    1 point
  28. Sold to me and loving it I get excited everytime i even think about driving it.
    1 point
  29. was having a big clean up today and making room for the wife to park in the garage (1st time in 20 years lol).. put the diff in and slapped some rims on to roll it around but this is the closest its been to being on wheels in the past 2.5 years.
    1 point
  30. After a couple of big sessions we have a drive train and it works! As I have stated have been concerned about the weight with the buggy body. Story within itself scored a bonnet locally in great condition, so now we have a Volksrod! Also had concerns about the gearing and brakes, no worries with the gearing plenty low enough to get going and cruise, if anything will probably have to gear her up a couple of cogs. Brakes are better than expected as well, all four rear wheels have brakes which helps, operated from a lever mounted outside the seats, emergency braking Fred Flinstone style! Plan to run her without the front bar maybe rig up a small nurf bar, pretty happy with where she’s at, looks like a Volksrod?!
    1 point
  31. well then, many happenings have been happening. firstly my good Mate Adam strapped it down to his dyno and he had a go at tuning it. the fuel pump died and it was making 15PSI which is way to much for a poor little M122. so i pulled the fuel pump out and replaced it with a walbro GSS341 and i made a bigger pulley for the supercharger. while i was at it i put the colder thermostat in it. put it all back together and this morning i went back to Adam's dyno for another go. everything was working so we set about basic setup, this is where i discovered that id set the timing wrong and it was retarded by 15 degrees. dont know how id fucked that up but i had. explains a lot.............. so anywho with the timing right things progressed well and the thing made power without getting hot so thats solved. pics/video can tell the rest of the story. EDIT - flickr is being a dick and wont upload any pictures. it made 250RWKW and the torque is literaly a straight line at 280 foot pounds. but youtube is working so heres the vid,
    1 point
  32. Got this as daily hack. have fixed a fair bit of cancer. Ideal plan is to tidy up as much as possible without a full ground up build....maybe a set of custom rims.. dont have a lot of photos as such but here is one I took before I bought it. The previous owner lived it so I'm continuing the legacy Discussion thread
    1 point
  33. Progress is happening on the rust!! WooT!! Also went to do finally assembly on subframe today and had a bit of a hiccup with some nuts and washers, even though I gave the nut and washers to the guy to match, he still got them wrong, cue RAGE QUIT. (probably exacerbated by cunt of a job it is to get the lower suspension arms in, 4 things have to line up and they don't) But at least I got the brakes back together.
    1 point
  34. Pulled the engine this morning.. Took all of about 30 minutes. Took it home and gave it a clean Before, After, doesn't look it but I can assure you it has a lot less oil on it.. After doing some reading I've come to the realisation that my sister probably cooked the engine, there should be an engine seal around the tinware and also the heater pipes weren't on either, according to the gurus that be on the webs the engine bay should be totally sealed otherwise the engine will overheat.. Went out to buzz bug this morning and he confirmed what I thought, was good to chat to someone that knows they're shit. Gonna send him a list through of stuff for the engine, he's also getting in a bunch of rust repair panels which will suit our kombi..
    1 point
  35. Hi, Thanks everyone for the advice. Pics of my car below. Currently sitting on the wharf in New Jersey awaiting to be shipped. So hopefully I will be able to get it here and certified to enjoy this up coming summer cruising. Cheers
    1 point
  36. Never heard of freezing it first.. and I machined the shit for 16 years. Depending on the hardness, then tool steel is the best To use. If you go see the boys at LEP in onehunga, they will look after you. Plus they pour polyurethane there, so if you had originals, then they can make a mould from them and then pour as many as you like
    1 point
  37. Made a start cutting the rust out of the back panel, ended up with some dramatic holes, but made a decent start on the drivers side.
    1 point
  38. 2016 Duke indicators arrived and bought some writing stuff to Get it all together. I have everything I need now to get it physically ready to go. I went with factory ktm indicators because they have all the correct legal markings on lenses and body - required for compliance I think. Also, these are so much higher quality than anything iv seen yet available aftermarket. Though this isn't saying much because I usually buy on Ali Express ( and when I don't, I'm usually buying from a place like Supercheap that probably also buys from AE) Tires arrived. Look great. Went in to bike shop and ran vin to get deets. Bike is actually an import from southafrica. This explains why the bike has its light switch located to right of speedo- this is usa spec according to Haynes manual. The whole SA thing might be a problem. I have now written to KTM nz and KTM South Africa for a Statement Of Compliance...which I may or may not need. Have no idea because vtnz in Hamilton is fucking useless.
    1 point
  39. As said by everyone I talked to when looking at bikes KTMs are awesome When they run
    1 point
  40. New name. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-927-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr New tail lights. AU/NZ spec facelift types with the CREAR WINKER. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-879-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Side profile for shits and/or giggles, been playing around watching tutorials on commercial editing etc so easing into it. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-894-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Over lock down, I also finished the caliper rebuild and assembled them. They're coated in HPC of some sort, whatever the flashest one was, in a finish to mimic the OEM ones. I'll do the rears in due course. Also detailed the inner arches and front suspension, it's all very clean in there now. Will try for some pics a bit later. Rears to follow, again. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-917-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr
    1 point
  41. was able to get some paint for the inside of the fence. pretty happy with that, fence finished. the light green spot in the middle of the gate is just paint that hasnt dried yet. now on to the carport. 2020-04-29_07-08-23 by sheepers, on Flickr2020-04-29_07-08-14 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  42. sooooo have hard a good push on this old girl to get it sorted well in time for the brass monkey in May. I dont want to be embarking on a 3000km journey on a super fresh build. One of the many problems i have in this tidy up is super thick grot yellow paint. I did some research and the plastic used in these fairings is ABS. i did some more research on how to chemically strip paint from ABS plastic and many places suggested brake fluid. Believing the internet i tried this on one side fairing and yea sure enough, it bubbled the paint and didnt seam to harm the plastic, so i tried a little more and stripped the entire piece, then bang, like 4 massive cracks in that one bit that i just put brake fluid on. sooooooo, more research and yes, brake fluid upon contact with ABS plastic causes catalytic embrittlement and internal stresses in the formed plastic part make it crack like fuck. gutted. at least its fixable, the whole part will now be more brittle but hey, ill try to always drop it on the right hand side. So that brings me to the next stage of repair, plastic welding. For those that know me, know that I'm fucking jewish. not the fun kind of jewish with the funny little hats and nipple tassles on my forehead, but the kind that hates giving away my hard earned shillings and six pence. I decided commercial plastic welding was too spendy, and these guards have heaps of plastic weld repairs on them already, like a fuck tonne, i dont know why exactly, but its probably got something to do with this photo the previous owner sent me: actually, its because it got ridden into the side of a garage, then written off, repaired, and re complied, but that photo is too good not to share. so i found a really handy hint on the interwebs, poor mans plastic welding. Lego is made of ABS, the same material as the fairings, and ABS melts like fuck in acetone. So take a $6 blue lego duck and jam it in some acetone: mmm lego slurry. just add more lego or acetone to get the consistency right, similar to golden syrup is bang on. then just V out the cracks and dab in the slurry. the acetone in the slurry instantly starts eating / bonding to the ABS in the fairing and makes a super strong bond, like full on two become one Gerri Halliwell show me ya tits bond i have found the best way to do it, similar to bogging, is to layer it up with thin layers, doing 2 layers to fill a crack. it shrinks a bit and forms a skin as it dries which makes the middle take way longer to dry, so thinner the better. it also gets quite a few air bubbles if you slap it on too quick. Its also handy for making entire new pieces and tabs and shit, took a bit of progress but got there in the end: So yea, just chipping away at that. Have also got the plugs almost sorted for the side covers, foam plug is finished and then layered with one layer of woven mat. I'm currently bogging these up to get to the desired finish before I prime and then lay a mold off it. Simply fizzing and the bung to see this thing come together and be a full on adventure barry.
    1 point
  43. Won a trophy at 4&R Nationals for having the best original paint. I guess the 30 + hours of detailing wasn't in vain.
    1 point
  44. 1 point
  45. 3 years no update. I last drove this one year ago, to Hanmer knowing it had a leaking gasket. I pulled the head off the next weekend, one thing lead to another and a year went by. So, my head gasket had been leaking for some time and made a mess of the head and one bore. The block had been bored to +.090 to 4.000 inch and fitted with 351c stock sized pistons. I should probably have had it honed but hindsight is a wonderful thing. My E49 cam was worn out, valve springs soft and lifters rooted. New motor time. Blah blah 10.25 to one compression, new cam, sump baffle, oil pump brace etc etc. Put it all back together, oil pump air locked, luckily it was being turned over on the key with the plugs out. I still had to pull the push rods out again out of worry about the cam. Sorted that out more trials and tribulations ensued, nothing that some line towing, pulling the gearbox out a couple of times, and buying a new ignition system couldn't solve. It all came together today for the first decent drive in a year, I was very pleased. 245 head fitted with larger 265 valves. Decked block to push the compression up. Now the pistons come proud of the block at T.D.C. ARP Head stud kit and rod bolts. With an oil pump brace. New custom length pushrods, all the metal off the head and block meant my stock pushrods were too long. Sump baffle. All together and nearly all sorted. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=28091
    1 point
  46. so in true blizzshop fashion i got sidetracked with another project before the Africa Twin was finished. With the Brass Monkey being postponed until next year i lost a bit of motivation to finish the twin, and with East cape not too far around the corner again i thought i better hurry up and build a bike for it. I had purchased an old Xl100 to build up a while ago, plan was to throw an XR200r engine and a Cg125 tank on it and send it. Delving further into the XL frame tho, there was some nasty as shit repairs, it was a bit bent and the swing arm was wonky, and it wasnt going to fit the XR200 engine that well, so i shit canned that idea
    0 points
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