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Just needed a bulb. Too easy

Pretty much back together again, currently masked up to spray the satin black on the pillars and window frames again. Have flicked some aerosol black around underneath to cover overspray and stuff too. im seeing if I can sort another front bumper cause this one doesn’t line up for shit. It’s pushed in and up about 15mm so touching valence in middle and pulls the sides away from body. I tried tweaking it and it tore. Lol. screen rubbers will be about 10 days away x Canada. Took a chance on quality but it’s half the price of local Thai stuff. have placed order for new headlining but no idea on a finish date. Here’s the last pic I took a few days ago

Stoked! He was very happy with everything, the only issues being the brake booster vac hose needs to be to spec and the brakes start to fade half way through the cyclic brake test. I'll try some fancy brake fluid & maybe different brake pads, but he did say the first 2 applications were up to spec so I'm hoping I wont need to go crazy. Worst case I do have a spare disk rear end from a MS112 I could use which might help. All things considered I'm very happy with that result.

Last job before cert was the dash lights. I joined the tail warning & headlight warning lamps together to make space for an engine check light. The current symbols are etched onto clear plastic so I couldn't clean it off. My father in law came to the party with his new engraving machine that he was playing with over the lockdown. After he drew up the new design and calibrated it he got a great result! Only problem with a good job is no one will ever notice it And she's done! Off for cert to see what I've missed, hopefully it's not a large list!

Scored myself a Z18ET with a heap of spares for relatively cheap, motor is in pieces but prime for building up for the coupe! Link ecu, tickled up turbo etc, should go much better than the Z20E. Even managed to find a factory turbo dash cluster and boot badge to match the trim level of my car! Slowly assembling the peices ready for a direct drop in!

A few pics once I put some 10kg springs in the rear as 6kg was way too soft!

So a week after it got a wof, this happend S13 front and rear setup, with Cusco 910 specific camber plates up front sourced from Japan. Also put some coby extractors on it along with 2" mild all the way through to a cut through muffler with twin stainless 1.5" tips which gave it a good note and a bit more grunt!

I was sent this scan of a article in a magazine from Japan, got me thinking about a spoiler and i realised that I had this NOS rubber universal one that I got off trade me years back, perfect size!! Slogan on the box is the best bit haha

made some mods to my sandblaster and its fucking cash. so the old venturi suction sandblaster feed is a bit shit what with sand/media being really heavy and all. you need to run the biggest nozzle to get enough air flow to raise the sand and then there isnt enough velocity at the nozzle to really do fuck all once you do raise the sand up from the bottom. so i made some mods to mine to effectively run a "total loss" sand system. it works mint. so the sand sits in the funnel at the top and gravity feeds the handpiece. i can now run the smallest nozzle and the velocity is good so it removes rust/paint/crud quickly and really well. the funnel full of sand lasts ages because you only need the small nozzle. I've cantilevered the cabinet out off the bench so i can pull the bung and drain the media into the bucket, then just tip it into the funnel again. fuckin too easy. i could run the thing without the bung probably, haven't tried yet. visabality is good too with the vacuum stuffed in the side. the whole things is a win in my book. 2020-05-14_06-16-08 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-05-14_06-15-59 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-05-14_06-15-51 by sheepers, on Flickr

While on a 910 parts mission at pickapart, this Honda city was sitting adjacent to it and the lip intrigued me. After removing about 10 bolts I sat it on the stray 910 valance laying on the ground, it wasnt far off being a good fit! Bought it along with a heap of little thing to tidy the coupe up and mounted it up and paint matched it that afternoon - took very little modification to mount which was awesome!

I haven't had much experience with panel repair, and it shows! But its now rust free in the important parts and I think I'll be able to clean it up to a paintable state after cert. This corner has been bothering me for a long time so its nice to have it sorted. You can see where the water was sneaking in at the bottom of the C-pillar and keeping the whole R/R wheel arch damp. I've used a syringe to squirt Rust Converter into all the gaps incase there was some rust I missed.

i jsut want to have fun, thats all.it may not be built with a big fancy turbo and all the e-fame attachments, but i have alot more fab skills and knowledge these days so heres to a good laugh and many grassroots motorsport days to come. also working in the garage,garden is the only way my brain isnt in engaged in overdrive, its my own kind of therapy i guess.

Velocity isnt fixed Like, velocity at 4000rpm will be half of velocity at 8000rpm.... And dont be too generous towards OEM. On one of the Barra motors, it had variable valve timing, but the table in the ECU was blank. They just did all of their abstract validation bullshit and forgot about it! And I remember seeing some pictures from when they were testing exhaust manifolds design for the FD RX7. they were just throwing shit at a wall and seeing what sticks, with some fairly oddball designs. OEM has an extra layer of unhelpful complexity in that they're not trying to build one of something, they need to figure out how to make thousands apon thousands, in a way that uses the least amount of time and money. So yes they have good R&D budget but their goals are very different too. In my mind it's hard to beat real life testing. You dont need to know why something works, just that it does.

Just awaiting a Cusco strut brace and a Royal Clover key to turn up from Japan Also scored an old Blitz SS Bov for the turbo build, best sounding bov in my opinion!

Wee bit of an interior tune up plus a sub install, Autolook and Kenwood components through out! Even a NOS Key Beam unit which beeps when you open the door with keys in the ignition!

Clean sheeted a wof, couldn't believe it myself! Was so stoked!

Next up was the rust repair on the sill, got a good mate to do it, not bad for an auto sparky!

One of the first things I did aside from a good clean was to track down a SSS grill badge which it was missing and also chucked some new tyres on a set of 15x6.5 Linea Sport wheels that I had lying in the shed! Also fixed one of the mirrors that was missing the motor mech out of it which holds the glass in, was a $5 fix - some random fender mirror I got from a swap meet years back

Got it home and gave it a clean, picked it up for $1900 in the end!

On Facebook I stumbled across this 910, Z20E 5spd, a sweet two tone colour and reasonably close to home so was too good to pass up going for a look! Reg on hold and reasonably complete it wasnt too bad in regards to the $2000 price tag that he was asking. Interior needed a tidy up and some rust needed fixed, but overall a solid runner and straight vehicle

Alrighty The car has undergone a few changes. Something that drastically needed attention was the rear spring perches on the diff. The diff is an F series out of a Liteace Van and had the AE86 mounts swapped on to it. What a great idea I thought! as I purchased this off TradeMe.. Check out the state of this. No idea what it did to the actual ride of the car being like this but it's always crippled my brain bones when I thought about it 95055142_2587530994857642_8016735613954818048_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr Cut bracket off: 20200502_151932 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Tack in better position: 20200502_153711 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Glue in and appreciate the view: 20200504_134955 by phillipbaines, on Flickr After market cams from Auckland Cams have been acquired and installed: Handee-Dandee printable cam degree wheel. 20200411_125318 by phillipbaines, on Flickr I forgot to get a pic with the dial indicator gauge sitting in there for cool effects but.. they're dialed in! They're a fast street.. turbo cam which leads me to my next photos 20200411_125336 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Into the shop she goes at Syndicate Fabrication in Feilding to get some bloowey stuff sorted: 20200509_123358 by phillipbaines, on Flickr I think i'll be relocated my battery.. 96582311_1183989831941174_4131192127054938112_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr Intercooler mounting: 96234626_1335441543317696_5237312287865307136_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 97052531_332330944406187_4372249077803384832_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 96801806_1065109070557228_3969570824079278080_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 96754189_684652285666769_2128768315122778112_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 97122736_600582834146913_7398048078931951616_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 97041947_726147548188757_5675273285609193472_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 97470685_196968697946098_5761960599114219520_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr I'm excited, it's looking the tits, I will update as I get more pics! Work done by: https://www.facebook.com/SyndicateFabrication/ Discussion:

Along with. " I don't know how it works, but I know how to make it work." you have a winning combo

that was the original dissusion haha. and rattle cans without some sort of UV protection on them can get in the bin. i did spray the advan livery on my mates mx5 with rattle cans and 2k clear overtop. it came out bloody mint, though has showen adhesion issues between the rattle can and clear in some areas (could have been a clenliness or technique issue though). the whole job cost less than 300 bucks, was done in less than 48 hours and has lasted years. all paint zero vinyl.

9 years ago

I emailed them about the price drop after I bought it and they are giving me the difference as a voucher. Great service. I’ll use it to get some more belts.

I just ordered the tool shed one. No one ever regrets buying tools.

oh, fuck something i forgot to mention, now that the cabinet has effectively no sand in it its light as and i can just lift it down and store it under my bench when im not using it. also a win.

Went and got it from the lockup today took it home and washed the genuine barn find dust has been washed off (don't tell the council). Looks okay wet, I'll have to give it a good detail one day past me even did a oil change before I parked it up. Must be good for another 5 years at this rate lifters still sound bad but I'll install another radio to fix that. Booked in for a wof check tomorrow. Did a light check and fondles all the grease nipples. Place bets on failure sheet now

Do you mean having an electric cut out to dump the exhaust before the mufflers, but then having it capped so the electric cut out cant be used? That would be one of those situations where it doesnt say you cant do it in the rules, but I wouldn't cert it because it is obvious the cap would be left off so the electric cut out could be used A bit like people who have externally venting wastegates who put a cap over the outlet so it's not venting at all any more

So I had this HIPPO bucket seat that I had imported from Japan years back for another car that wasn't being used so decided to find a rail for it to suit the 910! Found one from a fellow 910 owner - bless his soul!

Next up was an interior tidy up. Seats are torn and brittle and the parcel tray was not the nicest. Re upholstered the parcel tray and applied some period correct Kenwood shelf speakers. As for the seats a simple set of covers were added! Also a MOMO Daytona wheel and other accessories

I'd also buy direct from 14point7 (well, I did, and no regerts).

i takes a certain quality in someone to be hated by the masses, crashing at hamptons while out on a hotlap in a completely untested car. then trying to sue the track is a good way to fire up the hate train

Oh crap I should not have looked at that trademe listing Classic piece of nz history already painted black and looks fast while going nowhere

I'd just rattle the repairs if he just wants to drive and enjoy the thing. There's my shit advice for the day. /good enough for my fridge This thread is super handy for backyard butchers like me though, so much info.

I get what you are trying to say here.... Early corollas sprayed with orange 2k come to mind...

Spoil-sport!

So I was one of those sad sacks who went to zebra/pick a part as soon as they opened. Zebra delivered a later model rocker cover and coilpacks. should tidy stuff up heaps. I'll trim some stuff off, get my mate to weld a AN fitting on and weld up the dipstick hole Heres a bonus barry photo (fuck you photobucket) from about 2010. Yes I had have a problem

Thanks mate, just bought one. Looks like good value for money.

About fucking time.

Practicing some more welding. Before: After: Right now I’m keen on investing in some flap discs to make a final finish, as I’m a bit chicken about going too far with the grinder. Also built up the end of the triangular gusset with weld as there was a chunk missing. That went fairly well and you almost can’t tell. Now I have to drill an oval hole to finish it. The bit you’re looking at is the left side radiator panel mount, which was torn out when it got crashed into a fence or something.

Love the "just do it" attitude for this car I see the Mad awd March is up for sale on FB too (too many haters?)

Did some measurements today which are hopefully accurate. Rear diff is 1400mm wide, front suspension hub to hub is about 1400mm wide too and wheel base is 2450mm long. Was abit hard by myself to be accurate. Google searched what a nissan s13 is which resulted 1465mm front and rear width and 2475mm wheel base. Reason behind comparison is s13 is a popular drift chassis due to wheel base. Also I'm contemplating using an r31 skyline rear end (1465mm wide) and s13 front crossmember, suspension etc for better options of coilover and brakes and proven steering modifications to achieve more lock. Jacked it up on axle stands and found some interesting rust, someone had bogged and undersealed the chassis rails which has resulted in them being very rusty..... Removed the rear springs and tried on my heart wheels for some inspiration also

The modern 'Mastervac' style of booster (the XJ40 Hydraulic system is just a weird , overly complicated version of the same principal) is deliberately designed to be separate from the brake systems hydraulics to avoid complete loss of brakes in the event of booster failure. Its predecessor the 'Hydrovac' is easiest described as a 'hydraulic amplifier' that was plumbed in series with the master-cylinder, in the event of its failure (which wasn't unheard of) the result was a complete loss of brakes.

PM'd

I still have this. Business has been taking all my time and money, but it is about time I had it going. Plan is a basic but very hot street car mainly set up for trackdays, clubsprints and sealed gymkhanas. I'll have some fun in it while I sort some of my other cars and then it will be getting full cage and TS cup treatment as some advertising and engine testing for my company. Just getting the suspension together now. I've had some custom Shockworks coilovers made up for it, valved and length to suit. Front are 50mm inverted monotubes which is cool. T3 GTX2 lower control arms and tension control rods. T3 steering arms & T3 RCA. Rear will be coilover conversion, so turreting is the next mission. Unfortunately the front isn't as low as I'd like and the coilovers are on the limit of how short they could make them. So I am going to cast some 20mm raised strut tops up. Next mission. It won't be as low as it used to be

It's been 2290 days since my last update and it seems that all my images have been deleted by greedy internet barons. Here's a new one from the weekend. Regular programming to continue shortly.

I've been throwing a little bit of time at this each night after my kids are down, slowly making progress. Had a local engineer do a nice job of fixing the broken accelerator cable bracket on the throttle body, then I deleted the traction control & threw on some wrinkle engine enamel. Quite happy with how it came up. All the cambelt bits, caps/rotors arrived so that went together. I couldn't clean up the aluminum tensioner & coolant castings very nicely so gave the 'aluminum' coloured engine enamel a shot. I was pleasantly surprised it matched the new water pump pretty closely. Next up was valve covers, I'm very happy with the engine internal condition, very clean. After I wired a new starter cable into the lower loom the whole thing could go back together. Pretty happy with the way it came up, I'll just need to figure out what kind of badge to put on the intake. Hooked it up & had it running for a few seconds on ether, so good to finally hear it run! I'm now saving up for the bellhousing & clutch/flywheel so this will be on the ground for a bit. I might rig up a fuel pump & radiator to get it to temp & make sure everything is happy. I've also got to prep the engine bay, the more I look at it, the more I realize I need to paint it.

So I've been trying to make up my mind over the last year whether to stick with the auto, or go manual. The auto TCU was missing, so that was going to be a pain, but the W series boxes are just so pricey! I was looking at the Spitronics trans controllers till I spotted this old girl at the local wreckers. Looked in and sure enough, 5 speed! So I thought, stuff it. Manual is cooler. Haven't counted if it's a W55 or 57, but I'll be happy with ether. Also grabbed pedal box & driveshaft. The guys were happy for a swap with my old 5M & trans, everyone wins!