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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/07/20 in all areas

  1. i put the front bumper back together and put it back on and it looks ace, i did however forget to take a picture so yea.... anywho i did some other stuff. the rear muffler was too big, hit the ground a lot and made the car way to quiet so i fitted a smaller one. it doesn't hit the ground and the car is louder which is good. old muffler with custom flat bottom, 2020-04-06_05-10-26 by sheepers, on Flickr new muffler. 2020-04-06_05-10-17 by sheepers, on Flickr so the next thing i wanted to do was make new bits for the tops of the rear bumper. the ones i had were fucked so i made some new ones out of 8mm aluminium plate. ill let the photos do the talking but some points to note, the only file i used for this whole process is the one pictured which is called a dreadnought file if you've never seen one before. there is no better file for working with aluminium, you can get a great surface finish with these files if you know how to use them and they will remove heaps of material very fast too. things they dont like however include filing steel, that will fuck them. the other thing is that i used my 60mm DA sander/polisher to go from file finish to polished because DA sanders are the best thing in the world, get some. 2020-04-06_05-10-09 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-10-00 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-09-29 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-09-46 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-09-38 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-09-20 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-09-06 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-08-56 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-08-46 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-08-35 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-08-25 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-08-15 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-08-06 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-07-48 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-07-39 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-07-31 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-07-22 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-07-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-06-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-04-06_05-06-45 by sheepers, on Flickr
    16 points
  2. Also made a wind chime to annoy the missus. made from an old clutch disk , flutes are are from and old intake manifold project and the bell knocky thing in the middle is a yanmar digger piston . I will balance it a bit better later.
    13 points
  3. 9 points
  4. And that leads me to this – after I bought a house, it wasn’t long before I found a new project, it was a mates that he had stashed in a a shipping container for around 12 years, he basically had zero interest in restoring it as he had other cars to play with, we struck a deal and that was that DABUZZ version rx2.1 Introducing my 1971 Mazda Capella RE, ‘T-Dash’ Coupe. It was tied to the roof at the very rear of the 40ft shipping container it had sat in, with a mountain of crap in front of it, took half a day to get it out, what appeared was a car that had had a bit of a hard life- as they all do, rust, rear ¼ damage, missing a bunch of parts, but no crash damage, and overall worth a save.
    8 points
  5. Here's a couple of side on photos of how it looks. I took these photos for @MopedNZ's article on Yamaha V series that he put on his website: https://www.smallbikestuff.com/yamaha-v-series Also discovered the massive indonesion scene for modifying and racing their V series bikes. Styles are questionable but I love the passion for these bikes regardless. https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/vseriesracing/
    8 points
  6. Bit of work done today on this crappy old gokart. To be fair...it just keeps going and going, despite all of the abuse it receives, so I have a love/hate relationship with it. Anyways: Electric start all sorted. Push button...Brom brommmm.... Then: Much nicer exhaust on it than before. It still vibrates and rattles like buggery...but better than it was. I've added a support bracket (not pictured).
    7 points
  7. I was going to keep this rear section for a 'one day' (/never) couch build but after advertising the seats on FB, @Cbomb came down and took most of the 4-door parts away. The rest of the shell went to scrap, although I heard later that some local whanau cherry picked some bits to be used in an art project of some sort. Also, the owner of the chassis needed some cash after buying too many motorcycles, so I ended up buying it so it's still sitting in the driveway. It's RHD, but might be useful for some parts or to use as a temporary body support (although I suspect the woodie chassis may be different in some way)
    6 points
  8. Well, I have had a build thread going on Ausrotary forum for many years, due to the snails pace rebuild of this old Mazda, Thought I would be better off copying over a condensed version here as the car is in NZ after all. The plate DABUZZ was originally on a 1974 Mazda RX4 coupe, that was fairly well known in the early-mid 2000s around the Auckland rotor scene, had that for 11 years, and sold it to buy a house (no Regrets) Was a factory 13b car (only 12a cars were ever sold new in NZ) private import from Aus, which was repainted when I got it, and had a mild stage 2 13b in it Over the years it grew to a Microtech Injected 4/71 Supercharged s5 Rx7 13b, s5 gearbox, and plenty of other mods. Took home a few trophy’s at the 4&Rotary nationals, and was just a general fun street car, wasn’t big in power, but got along OK, and sounded incredible.
    5 points
  9. It also had a 9 inch full spool diff in it that was way too wide - hence the reason for trying to flare the arches, luckily they gave up after only doing one side!, also had s5 brakes all around with 5 stud conversion.
    4 points
  10. Oh, also wanged the V90 motor and Mayalsian spanny in it. Looks and sounds pretty saucy. GPS says it does 92kph lols. I put a smaller rear sproket on too, 32t compared to stock 39 (I think). Lost a little acceleration of course but not hard to change back when I want wheelies. Jets for this carb are expensive and limited size so I've been playing with Aliexpress micro drills to get more fuel into it. Little worried about seizing it as V90 parts are really hard to come by. I need to go richer still, until it starts 4 stroking / plug is rich then go down a couple sizes on another jet. Running a metal meshy pod filter. The can on the end does nothing, it's quite loud. I packed it with muffler packing and it made it a bit deeper. It'll do.
    4 points
  11. Update on my V50. Looks much the same as in 2018 but I raised the rear suspension a little, my cutties were too low. Matches the front now, had reverse rake before. Comfy too. Also added 72 spoke rim set and white wall tyres (2.25f / 2.5r) - well just the rear at the moment. They're made for a Honda C50 so the front hub is a bit different in regard to the brake stopper location. I almost got it working with a V90 front fork and Honda C200 hub which has an arm to hold the hub for the brakes rather than a small nub sticking out of the suspension arm - but it moved wrong with the leading link stz and would bind up everything. @mo999 is working on a fix though, has drawn some arms up to suit Honda wheel into Yamaha fork with inspiration from 'Draft Customs in Thailand lowering front suspension links' And a handy wee middle basket from Malaysia - it's for a Honda Wave 125 but some trimming with the dremel and bending of the supplied brackets it fits. Can fit lots of lasagne toppers and Lion Browns in it.
    4 points
  12. I took this car out for a race weekend back in September and had a goal in mind of winning an MX5 race. The car was quick and I managed to put it qualify in P2 for the first race. Bryce managed to get a good jump from the start and went from 3rd to 1st during the first lap. He pulled a bit of a gap, so I stuck my head down and chipped away at him for a few laps. The last couple of laps were good - I managed to get ahead of him and we were battling right up to the last corner. We crossed the line side-by-side and he won by a nose. Race 2 is reverse grid and it was busy as always! I got caught behind a slower car at the start and had to catch the other fast guys through traffic. Bryce and Matt pulled ahead and were battling hard all the way until the last corner.... When Matt overcooked it a bit, caught the grass on the inside and ended up spearing off the outside of the track into the tyres! This promoted be to another 2nd place finish. For race 3 I was set to start in P2 again and it was my last chance to get a win for the weekend. Unfortunately the car didn't make it to the start line because the diff let go! This was the original diff and we'd never opened it up. So it had lived a full life on the road (140,000ks or so) and has had 10 years of track abuse before letting go. It was a bit disappointing not to compete in the last race, but the weekend was still good fun! I whipped the diff out the next day and Dad pulled it apart. Yep, she's chooched! It's now been rebuilt by the local gearbox shop along with a solid spacer kit to get rid of the crush tube. I think the crush tube had squashed after 10 years of limiter launches . Oh yeah, we also fitted a window net to comply with the Mazda Racing Series rules for our summer racing:
    3 points
  13. Re: Bumper tops: Thats just fucking rediculous. I'm massively jealous of that amount of time/skill/patience/tools. Great job. 10/10
    3 points
  14. Discovered as much fun as standing up is when the front wheel comes up you want to sit your ass down real fast, Only problem is you had a choice of the SU carby or the exhaust to sit on so i started scratching my head and remembered i still have factory airbox. Typical honda its so over engineered you can drop a bomb on it........ or a 90kg human. TLDR ? I threw the guts out few nips with grinder and it now fits and doesn't interfere with the carbs return springs, surprisingly makes a good seat. Will add some foam and a vinyl cover job done
    3 points
  15. I got offered a 1951 Ford body shell for 'free' if I removed it from the rolling chassis. I was in pretty haggard shape, and past any restoration. Unfortunately the front panel were long gone. Apparently it had been in a field near Levin for quite a while. Anyway, paid some $$ to have it delivered from Levin. And attacked it with a sabre saw.... Main things collected where a much better set of door hinges, the rusty one in front is from the woodies and is pretty rooted. And this RHS A-pillar cut. I plan to graft this into the woodie shell as the existing one is pretty much missing.
    3 points
  16. I got to use the crown for my wedding, ran perfectly for the big day . still not legal......
    3 points
  17. I have this coffee mug from 1944. It is the only one I use due to its perfection of size, finish and history. Like a twat I dropped in in the sink and it has developed a crack; So today I decided to make a double skinned stainless one that will be difficult to break; I started with so 80mm pipe, put it in the lathe and applied some heat, this allowed me to flare the top edge a bit; Then I got so into it I forgot to take anymore pics like a legend, so this is the finished result. It appears to work ok. I should probably find some better pipe sizes and do it again later but better. The outer skin I had to make from some sheet and the butt joint is skanky. But it'll do for now... Edit; coffee doesn't leak out and it stays warm. It also weighs really quite a lot.
    3 points
  18. Anyone with kids will appreciate that half your life is spent cleaning or fixing the path of destruction they leave in their wake. Apparently the towel holder isn't rated for climbing on...go figure eh!!! Nothing some serious over engineering can't fix though. And finally
    3 points
  19. I got bored and put the radiator back in so that I could run the engine up to temperature and have a play. I don’t remember if I had ever done this, but I put the multimeter across the battery terminals to check the volts and they were very high, eg. 17V. There’s a good chance it’s been toasting the battery since the day I bought it. The first thing I wanted to look at was the regulator. Not good. The points thingy was rusted/welded solid Also, this wire (on the right in the pic below) is burnt through. Further investigation reveals the big black wire from the battery to the B post on the alternator is melty.(after I peeled off 1km of duck tape “insulation”) Consultation with the wiring diagram also revealed the Arancio and Grigio wires were on the wrong terminals on the regulator. I don’t understand electricity voodoo very well, so I’m unsure of the implications of this. Next I de-soldered the funny little fuse wires so I could unstick the points, clean them up and reset to a 0.5mm gap. Then I replaced the broken wire, refitted to the car with the orange and grey wires in the right place (and some better insulation on the B cable) and gave it another test. The test results were not positive (no pun intended). The voltage bounces a lot but still too high, and after a few seconds some smoke was seen exiting the regulator. I guess the reg is toast (see what I did there?) Additionally I have also found a mystery black wire: sorry, the camera wouldn’t focus on the wire.. The other end, out of the shot, plugs into a spade terminal that emerges from the main loom. The bit in the photo is a very distinctive female plug. I pushed the wire and a spring emerged from the inside. I’m trying and failing to recall where I have seen a plug of this type before. @azzurro?
    2 points
  20. its such good set up. i keep seeing bug turbo set ups and haven't really found any bay window kombi ones. that one is a 1915cc and has 138bhp. also 1st one ive seen with a smaller t3 size turbo on them. everyone else seems to have huge turbos. and also pretty much every other one is in a bug.
    2 points
  21. Weaselled my way into a few weeks in the sunshine, have rudely awakened the slumbering British cars. Just about finished tarting up the avenger- have ordered an essential buffing machine. Am now thinking of getting better seats - the dash is rekt, wonder how much of a c*nt swapping it would be - would transform the car
    2 points
  22. I had reacted and commented on this photo a long time ago. And at the time I'm sure I saved it. Well after some hunting via stalking my own moves on Facebook on a lot of vw groups I found it. So I'm going to leave this here so I cant loose it again. Perfect.
    2 points
  23. some time later... So much for a new roof being decent. about the time I went to filler prime the roof around a hot day, my spray gun fucked out. Borrowed another and off we went. I primed my mrs enginebay too. then today I see the next few days weather is a bit pooze for this sort of thing so I pushed on and then primed in 2K black primer. I had a spare tin and needed cheering up, hence black. Pretty happy with it, still some repairs to go however
    2 points
  24. Another thing I did a while ago, someone might like to copy to amuse them selves/kids. Bottle rocket launcher, pretty simple just some PVC pipe, a ball valve and a collar to catch the bottle. Goes pretty well off the compressor. Shallow groove that holds an O ring to seal the inside of the bottle neck The O ring sits under the collar. I got a bit carried away using a lathe to make this. The pin holds the bottle on with the small ridge under the cap. We find that about 1/3 water and as much air as the compressor can supply gives best results, It mounts on a bike rack so it has a nice solid base to sit on. @scooters
    2 points
  25. Also. As @RUNAMUCK stated previously little chinese concrete mixers are shit. Concrete mixers are a handy thing to have though so when I spotted this in the scrap pile at a friends yard I pounced on it. It has a cool worm drive gearbox, the motor looks like it's off an old fridge or washing machine. The locking handle was rusted in place and the bowl was badly rusted. I fixed both and now it goes hard for what it is, quietly and at a good height to tip into a barrow. Edit. I'd like to find a couple of pneumatic wheel barrow wheels to make it easier to move around because these steel ones suck.
    2 points
  26. And fully ilegal but i like driving it so i took it to work on monday
    2 points
  27. The last blurry photo looks like the elecrtomagnetic fan power supply thing. The spring presses a carbon bush aganst the back of the fan and when the temp sensor comes on it locks the fan on. I have a few of those points style regulators, on my lockup. i think @Testament is still rocking his? The solid state lada ones are a plugin replacement. I hid mine in a gutted points box so looks are the same
    1 point
  28. Parts that take any normal person an eternity to do find / give up / have to wait for nos stock to roll around, and you bust them out from nothing in a "Lunch break" with "only a few tools" lol. So much admiration for your skills. Keep up the awesome work.
    1 point
  29. also found this video quite good
    1 point
  30. Hey Simon, thanks heaps for taking the time to look through your stash and also for offering to put together a HS6 for me. I also appreciate the details that you have put together on the EA TBI conversion. Funnily enough last week during one of my internet meanders I came across a crowd in the UK who have done a HS6 conversion to an old Landy that was previously running a dirty old Zenith. What piqued my interest was the setup of their inlet manifold adapter as it got me thinking that I could make a similar adapter with the carb sitting towards the centre of the 4Y thus getting me the clearance that I lack in order to retain the standard engine cover on the Thames. Pic of the Landy setup below. I've spent the past few days getting my HiAce donor running. Set the timing today and she is surprisingly sweet even with the dirty old standard 4Y carbie on her. Makes me sorry that I can't run her as is, but there is just no way I can squeeze that carbie in. Getting back to your TBI suggestion, I know very little about setting one up, but like you say I have the combined knowledge of many oldschoolers to fall back on. I'll definitely do a bit more homework on the subject, so thanks for the suggestion.
    1 point
  31. Other stuff I have done then forgotten about removed the stupid cooling hose that runs from front of the heads to the back between the V to the thermostat bought a Davies Craig electric pump and gutted the water pump to feed inlet water in thru there and return back thru the stock water outlet at front of heads - ecu will have control of pump got main throttle cable sorted and mounted and double return springs bought runs a crossover cable between the two banks of throttle bodies - will I need 2 sets of double springs ??? ( each ITB has its own spring on butterfly also) Stuff on the list to cross off ... wiring .... ecu and get the motor running first then body wiring fit rx7 Flexi clutch hose and bleed / check clutch engagement refit rear brake lines and bleed - has all new pads rotors in the bigger nb size fit new polybushes front and paint front arms Refit dash and seats and centre console delete test hoon round section in ever increasing laps go for a bigger test hoon and see about an alignment and fail a warrant find somewhere for cert as closest was Nelson /mot but no longer cert guys there which is gonna be a pain - build trailer may be an option
    1 point
  32. Long overdue update now with added shed hoist and coronavirus bought a new mig and spoolgun and attacked welding a new mount for starter onto bellhoising - seemed to work ok used 10mm alloy plate and there are 2 bolts that capture it right thru to the block - no photos but it looks factory - starter mounted and engagement checked many times threw motor and box back in again - love this put engine on crane and then just lift car on hoist under it got very bored during lockdown even working some days so small steps one wire at a time - made a big fat new earth wire for battery - and better terminal on positive lead and reattached lead along the pppf frame to the starter new wire from starter positive to alternator output and new wire from there off to start of new fuse box clipped a wire onto starter solenoid filled engine with oil and removed spark plugs that were sitting in loose and turned it over with socket on the crank pulley for a bit touch starter wire to positive fuse terminal and we have turnover yay was not sure if I was gonna have to prime oil pump after sitting so long with no sump on and being upside down and stood on its nose quite a bit but had a gusher from my oil filter adaptor right away stopped attached hose for filter and oil cooler then turned it over till solid oil out of the return hose then reattached that if I can make and fit 1 wire per day it’s progress Blah blah wall of text - photos
    1 point
  33. slowly making a start on getting all the B1500 front ready to swap over in-between doing jobs around the house, starting to clean up the headlight surrounds and grill pieces ready to paint. Will need to take some measurements of where the headlight bucket mounts and grill mounts are before removing them to clean up, also need to drag out the b1500 front guards and compare them to see if I can modify the b1600 ones to work with the indicators and headlight brow otherwise it won't be happening for awhile if need to use the other guards and paint them to match. also cleaned up a spare steering column rubber thats in really good nick, will make a plug where the column shift shaft went, going to start trying to seal up the cabin and put grommets where needed before sound deaden the cab
    1 point
  34. The grill and headlight surrounds had a few scratches and paint was chipped in a few spots. Had a 1/2 can of 'r32 skyline grey' left over that I'd used to paint the 929 grill with, so figured having a matching colour for the light surrounds and grill would be good. Quick sand and mask up then paint. Can't really tell the difference between the grey and the black it used to be unless you were looking for something different. Also ripped out the front end suspension and have been replacing the tie rod ends, balljoints and a few bushes. 3rd old mazda I've bloody done this on in the last few years, but always good to replace all the split boots and cracked bushes under the front end. Will give a few bits a clean and paint while I'm under there too. Should have it back together in the next few evenings.
    1 point
  35. man she has been some time since the last post..... I think old mate @Geophy ended up getting some steel and i asked him to get me some right angle in the end. Welded that on and then it really started to get in the way at the shop. Invited old mate Geophy over again and got him on the grinder he went over allllllll my welds and made them flat for me. Making it easier to stick the cladding on when i am ready/have the money. the main reason was so i could get it painted and get it out of the work shop. we had been planning on moving the shop and it was not going to be able to fit in the new shop. I had re upholstered a chair for a mate and he owed me a favor so i hit him up seeing if he could paint the caravan before i had to leave it sitting out side. boom! Not the best of paint jobs but we have paint so its now sitting at my mums place out in the weather as we move places and sort our own lives out again. I would really like to get back into it and get it covered in for at lest winter. so i think thats the next goal. By cladding and material for the floor.
    1 point
  36. So Yeh nah, the norgren air filter things didn't work. I took it for a blast on the beach, was probably like 10km away from my car, and it lost all power. The little filter things had got saturated with gas and stopped breathing. Luckily an easy fix, I just cut them off and it ran sweet again. So I thought I'd give plumbing them into the air box a try. I've welded a nipple on the very bottom of the plenum to connect too, this will also act as a drain if a float sticks and floods the plenum again. I also replaced the restricor tape with a bit of flat bar. I also did a dodgy patch on the exhaust, and put some flat bar over it to protect it a bit, as it's the lowest point. I also started building a simple trailer for transporting this thing. It's not going to have springs, and will have a hinged draw bar so it can tilt, so I don't have to have ramps. Regards, VG.
    1 point
  37. Knife made from circular saw blade. So sharp it'll "Cut ya just lookin at it"
    1 point
  38. Anyone on here who's ever used a hot water blaster knows how much better they clean than than a standard cold water blaster. I have a little Karcher water blaster at home, it goes ok but with cold water but is a bit meh. I've heard of people plumbing them into the hot tap to make a DIY hot water blaster. Taking the hose into the house sounds like a recipe for disaster, makes the place look like a meth lab, and my garage is a long way from the house. Solution. Take the hot water to the garage 20l at a time. The water blaster doesn't use much water, I was surprised at how well it worked, and for how long. It took 3 fill ups to clean up the bike frame and parts I was tinkering with today. I probably wouldn't recommend it for degreasing the 440 out of your Grandads motor home, but for small jobs B+ out of 10.
    1 point
  39. Interior all back together. Next on the list is finding a suitable double din / two single din unit to ditch the current mismatched setup (have misplaced other half of stock radio) Also try sort out aircon (1geu pump has a v belt pulley and doesn't interchange with the ribbed 1gge pulley and both pumps have different fittings for the lines) Purchased a different offset pair of 14x8 ssr mark III to hoard and try find other singles to make a set. Also have this single ssr tomcat center I've had for a while in hopes of finding three more
    1 point
  40. Got the tray panelbeated, the one bit of rust on it fixed and the new bed strips welded in. Then took it to a mate whos a cabinet maker and we spent the day making new timber for the deck.
    1 point
  41. Seat wouldnt move backwards and forwards so pulled that out and cleaned up all the sliders and got that working again. Also spot welded new bed angle strips on the side of the tray as the old ones were rusted out. Gave the panels a good bang with a hammer and dolly and straightened them out a heap! Gas welded up any splits or breaks in them as well.
    1 point
  42. Boom it runs! Took all the sharp edges out of inlet as well but overall these heads were mint! Lapping in valves took some work but did eventually come up really good. Started first pop normally takes some cranking. The part thats been attacked with the angry end was a hard edge that extended out really choking the exhaust. Once i had that opened up and smoothed out the rest of the port was actually pretty good, i opened up the port at the flange to match the exhaust and called it done.
    1 point
  43. I have had a VIN assigned for the woodie so it's properly recorded in LANDATA for the future. I also had the local Repair Certifier come down and take a look before I did anything. He confirmed that it's OK to go ahead and start work replacing the rot myself. He's since passed this project on to the new owner of the shop. so I'll have to get him down for a look sometime soon too. After that I felt it was OK to do a little dismantling. Removed the hood (floppy) and some of the grille bits and the drivers side guard for access to the A-pillar. Also had a go at replicating the front under-floor support. It was hard going in 16g, I made the sides separately using the nibble to fold the bend over as a flange then welding sections into the base. Turned out 'OK' but might end up making it again now I've had a practice run.
    1 point
  44. Bart - NAUGHTY Welding cast is an absolute no-no so please ignore Bart cos that is super dumb advice. If you are changing hubs and stubs, why not change suspension arms too and retain the correct ball-joints?
    1 point
  45. Orrrr you could use a P38. 108" wheelbase The best diffs, motor, gearbox Cheap
    1 point
  46. With installing itbs, i needed to run an aircleaner. Im not a fan of socks and the SQ Eng trumpets dont allow individual socks to be fitted. Keeping with the theme of the factory look. I made an aircleaner. I copied the original 4m box in the way that it seals and the lid clips on. Although large ,it lets me keep the trumpets. All thought out and made by myself, with hand tools,shrinker/stretcher and a beadroller. Can anyone guess what the lid was made from?
    1 point
  47. Ah so yep this now has a PW80 donk in it - yeah the kids dirt bike. Bolted right into the frame with only a small mod to the oil pump cable needed and the right foot peg having to be cut and rewelded at a different angle. I swapped the points igition /stator over to the PW80 block to make it easier to keep the lights etc. Then got bored of the average paint job I'd done so stripped it back down again. This is the result. A friend of mine who may or may not work at Air NZ helped me paint it. So if it looks like Boeing black that may be true... I also bought a NOS front guard and rack for it and some repro rear side covers and a leg shied, changed the rear trail light and lowered the front a little. Love the look of it now.
    1 point
  48. The quick guys were beating my lap times by roughly 1 second in all of the dry races, so there's definitely work to do on the car. The top 4 have all had their engines refreshed, so our car is the quickest of the original-motor crew... So the logical thing would be to get the engine rebuilt, right? WRONG It would be far more satisfying to catch them without doing the engine... I think... So we had to make a list of things to improve. The clutch is starting to slip, so that's due to be replaced. Next: inspect engine mounts. They were really bad! And wouldn't be helping the situation. Next up - cold air! Dad's added a bit of length to the filter pipe and made a box around the filter. Next - exhaust ports. They were pretty daggy! After: Next up: suspension.....
    1 point
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