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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/27/20 in all areas

  1. Well well, Link in and working, took more than I thought it would, Couldn't get a spark at cranking speed, mucked around and mucked around. Swapped pick up with a Mazda/Toyota unit, brought a new battery the old one was cooked anyway still no luck. Took the whole thing back out and took it to the tuning place. LOL, G3 was looking for a different signal, changed the parameter and away we went. All back in now and working well. Japanese pick up worked out well, the advance plate is gone all together now, which simplified things alot. Also I modified this distributor to take a plastic Slant Six distributor gear. They are about $1.50 off ebay, a hemi 6 one is almost impossible to get, bronze ones are available but they wear out quickly and make the timing scatter. I have a Link and Ignitor attached to my heater box. Also added some H4 headlights, and a big relay. Now I can see in the dark! Replaced the finger chopping fan with an electric one, got all hi tech with a thermo switch even. Pics of hilux calipers fitted. This is on the AP5 but same diff. Easy to do and well worth the effort. Roller Rocker flex because I reset my tappets with a view to get this dynoed once the world goes back to normal.
    22 points
  2. We needed a Family car since ive got a kitset family and dogs and small motorbikes, and everyone loves CC, so we never sold it and it sees alot of use. It CHONGS gas and has no performance to make it worthwhile. Needed new boots ASAP. I had my heart set on Hustlers but they got sold out from under me. Tridens look ham on Wagons but great on all other models, i wasnt allowed Cragar SS so it was to be 12 slots! 7in are common but pooze, these things need 8's and attitude. Que overpriced mags. What happened? Gotta pay the cost to be the boss. Im such a jew but made the effort to 'make' the look complete. The roof and door shuts are factory, someone has hit the sides and engine bay with CAT yellow, horribly. They missed most of the sills, sprayed over silicone on the bumper and then flatted off the sides but never polished it.. Its in pretty good shape. Theres a split in the bonnet skin, lumps on some doors but ultimately a good one. I already have a tin of 2K paint to respray it..Its a richer, slightly orange shade.Think NYC cab. Eagle eyed will notice we blacked out the trim around windows. Im not sold on it but its certainly not a bad move. The carb gave some trouble so was pulled down and cleaned, new accelerator pump. Gave it the usual, new fluids, rocker cover gasket, filters, plugs, leads, cap, rotor, points, vac hoses, heater hoses, heater tap, water pump, belt, washer etc. Its been on the road for almost a year now. Ill drag out some more photos in the coming days
    16 points
  3. Sorry chaps, life got in the way of reporting my oldschool actions, and ive neglected to tell you about this beast. My mrs is besotted with old square cars. When we spotted this on marketplace for what we reckoned was cheap, we decided it was a good deal and we should grab it to tidy up and flick to fund a house deposit. sight unseen from Dunedin.
    12 points
  4. Hmmm, back with a Oldschool project. It's driving starlets sideways that got me into drifting, there has been a lot of starlet shenanigans going on of late so the proverbial bullet has be bitten When this kp61 sprint rolling body popped up for cheap. I had a couple of motor options in mind and within the week I found Chris EURON8 had a complete set up from an altezza that needed moving on. So no Hesitation, in it went! Hack the tunnel and firewall Shove it in Cowl all in place Had some cultures come in at work so took the dry ice home and chipped out the sound deadner the more I look through my parts the more I realise I don't need to buy. Should be a rather cheap and cheerful build
    12 points
  5. Now we upto date at last night. Got the bumper back on and the front end together with the lights on. Found a Fulton Visor from the states which was already green/patinad so matches the truck quite well i think! Got that on test fitted. Thats all the updates for now But with lockdown for the next month im planning on getting it all back together and to a stage i can take it for a VIN once we are allowed out of the house.
    12 points
  6. Bit of spare time, spent in photoshop and came up with something to aim for. Just do not look too closely.
    9 points
  7. Gave it a good wash after sitting around so long, might try raise it 40ish mm in the front to get it sitting level and have a bit more travel before the bump stops.
    9 points
  8. Got the tray panelbeated, the one bit of rust on it fixed and the new bed strips welded in. Then took it to a mate whos a cabinet maker and we spent the day making new timber for the deck.
    6 points
  9. I hate missing interior trim so i went hunting to get that sorted. It has had a carpet set but the spare paint leaked in transit. It took AGES to clean it up. It was bone dry and dusty, there was that rank sticky window sweat and overspray on the glass, the demister on the hatch was cooked so i razor bladed it all off and breathed it in. The Vacuum operated heater etc didnt work, rearview needed glued on, there was a firewall/screen leak that soaked the underfelt and smelled.. It had a shit-ugly wooden steering wheel which made life suck as its a non-power steering model. It came with the original wheel but had chunks missing. Used the wooden one for warrant then swapped. After an exhaustive search and several other wheels from XC and XE which dont fit i found XD to have its own damn wheel. We scored a really decent one in the end. I tracked down and fixed missing knobs and things which was choice, added a wee bluetooth stereo that matches the finned vent cover on the dash. Put 4in speakers in the factory spots, one where the Base model central speaker goes and my old-school Pioneer sub from my first car setup in 2004. Pinched a Fusion amp from my mate whos not using it.
    6 points
  10. As some of you know I also have a V8 Valiant, it doesn't see the road much as I have a couple of issues to sort out with it which hopefully I'll start attending to soon. Long story short, one of the things I don't like about it is the automatic transmission it has. The transmission is fine, shifts well etc but it's just a bit dull. So I want to make it manual which isn't as easy as it sounds, also to quantify it has a 383, so "chuck a W50 in it M8" isn't really an option. Gear box choices seem a bit limited or expensive, There are plenty of manual boxes available ex USA but they are race orientated, expensive, and a bit agricultural looking. A833s are around but they are old AF, 4 speed, likely fucked, will need an expensive shifter etc. Big commodore and falcon boxes are expensive too, hard to come by, and huge. W5x boxes are expensive now and probably not up to the task? R154 seems like an option, they are reasonably priced(ish) but they are long, it would put the shifter in the back seat, I could move it but meh. Finally I see the R154s ginger haired brother, the R150/151. Cheap, available,strong, short, forward shifter, long input shaft available, R154 up grade parts fit. I'm not fussed by the wider ratios, I have enough torque to stop it from being a problem. Give me your thoughts, what do you know about R150/151. Is this a good idea? Valiant pic as proof of ownership.
    5 points
  11. well then this covid-19 kicked in and beach hop was no longer happening and i didn't have any idea when i was going to be moving into the new shop. so i mentioned to a few people that i was going to try lower the kombi, had a few things to bolt in and hopefully lower it. @Beaver @bobby1930 and @Geophy popped over and well bolts didn't want to come off which wasn't really an issue just meant the kombi would be in the middle of the shop till i sorted it. no real drama didn't know when i was moving. i had mentioned to a mate a while back With beach hop on the way i really wanted to mix the kombi up a bit and add something a bit different to it. other than it been a white box. I had mentioned this style to a mate a couple of times in passing and he said shit i draw that up for you. wasn't to much longer he popped passed work and traced the wheel arch/door and said it'll cost _ _ _ _ _ _ _ amount. i said hell yeah go ahead which i wasnt really fused about happening any time soon now that beach hop was off. but then covi-19 really kicked in. 2 nights out he turns up and slaps this on the side. and now the kombi is stuck in the old shop with new graphics on it and no wheels or suspensions till lock down is off or till i can lest get over there to bring it to the new location.
    5 points
  12. Howdy fellow isolated friends. I got my crossmember adjusted for my W55. I couldn't figure out where a vibration was coming from and narrowed it down to the driveshaft. Doing a UJ angle check I got it pretty much dialed in with spacers under the box to get it 2.5 deg on both ends, then got the member remade to sit where the spacers took it to 20200221_105825 by phillipbaines, on Flickr I made a patch harness by cutting a plug out of another small port ECU. Got the Link to fire up the motor and had the timing set. I did't have time to get it tuned for Toyota Fest so ran the old ECU down. Least I know that I can start having a play with the Link once I have some time... like ISOLATION TIIIME! 20200223_195148 by phillipbaines, on Flickr before the lock down we were lucky enough to head down to Toyota Fest for the weekend and what a treat that was. Such a good event and so grateful that Toyota put it on for us every year. The car drove down with no issues at all, and drove up with no issues at all. I couldn't believe it! Thrashed it around the track, thrashed it coming over the pass to Cromwell. drove it home easy. 20200307_123559 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20200307_151653 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20200307_153252 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Now that i'm back i'd like to increase the drivability. I've installed the A/C compressor and A/C lines again, once the lock down is lifted i'll buy a new O Ring kit so I can put the new AirCon gas through it (i watched a YouTube vid on how to do it.. wish me luck!). (no photo, oops) Added some conduit over spaghetti junction under the guard, surprising something so little/cheap can make things 1000x better 20200326_123514 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Before the lock down I went and got some offcuts of underlay. Shame, I just missed their dump of proper big sized pieces but ah well. chopping and sticking in puzzle sized pieces will still do the jerb. 20200326_143045 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20200326_173129 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20200327_144505 by phillipbaines, on Flickr For places that are vertical i've used some double sided tape. my god it could stick a 50kg weight to a wall, it's the tits 20200327_145209 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Puzzle completed 20200327_160001 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20200327_164144 by phillipbaines, on Flickr This was the work station.. pissing down with this rain but i'd rather knock my jobs out now 20200327_160053 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Onto the front doors tomorrow, i'm not expecting silence but definitely less harsh doinks. That's all for today FB_IMG_1584328814380 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Discussion:
    5 points
  13. Next up picked up the cab and chassis and took it over to EZE Auto Electrics in Tga who did my Impala. Tidied up what wiring was needing to be replaced, wired up front indicators, horn, lights to RHD spec, finished the 12V conversion , wired up the old siren etc. Got ignition hooked up (was on a switch) so its running and starting off the key and ready for a VIN. While the panelbeater continued on the tray. Couple of before and afters showing how much straighter the cab and front end is now!
    5 points
  14. Started pulling it apart ready for rust repairs and new timber deck etc. Front clip comes off as one piece which can be manhandled difficulty off by yourself haha Project Disucssion thread link
    5 points
  15. Its been off the road for over 10 years and had a VTNZ wof fail sheet saying the seatbelts were toasted (whole interior very dried out!) lower balljoint, lenses sunbleached, no reverse lamps. I fixed all these with some ease. Got the whole front lenses from Rare spares, fucked around with the inhibitor switch for ages and it was shagged so got a new one which wasnt identical but worked with some mods. There was mad rust holes behind the bumper/under tail lights that VTNZ totally missed. This was a pure cunt to get to underneath with leaves in the way too. It typically blew out more than expected and resulted in a repair on the rear quarter. I didnt bog and paint that as it wasnt my usual WOF guy. Its also had a hit on the chassis outrigger where the seat mounts on passengers side so i pulled that out a bit better and added some strength. The Tail lights are almost impossible to get in good shape. Someone had split these one piece units and painted the red with normal paint. This looked like ass and the seal job allowed moisture in and moss was growing. I split them again, cleaned the piss out of them and hit them with VHT NightShade Red, so very stoked how well it worked! I reassembled with clear RTV and they are good to go. Will always be keeping an eye out for spares! Its on farm rego with new plates, I was a little concerned but worst case its a re-reg..Well it must be some loophole to reintroduce an old car to the road? Its real virgin and bog standard, all numbers match. 4.1 BW35 auto Column change. Someone has treated it to new shocks in the front, Air shocks in rear. It went back onto the road no sweat thank god! Didnt need to go back to VTNZ either.
    5 points
  16. On we go...... First things first, chopped the ends of my winch bracket. That 1/4 plate doesn't half get through discs. Lick of paint... Next part of the plan, ruin a perfectly good bumper. Check. Bit more paint , bolt it on, starting to look like a thing. Next job, chop up a perfectly good valance. Check. Put the towing eye back in and trim valance to suit. ....And bolt on a pair of 7" spots. Nearly done. Next job is to cut down the Defender bar so it fits, it's going to look a bit like this... But it's going to need a little fettle to fit. More tomorrow, cold beer is calling.
    5 points
  17. Haven't done anything with the sub box remembered I had another clock project thats been sitting for a couple of years found all the components I'd ordered all the components soldered in place I forgot how many tubes I had
    4 points
  18. The new power steering pump solved that issue, all is well now. I then stripped the alternator down, it is in pretty poor condition, it was full of oily gunk that had been pushed through from the vac pump. The brushes were toast, pretty obvious that was the issue. If I can find some brushes it will do for a wee while, but this is proving difficult. I may have to dismantle some power tools and whittle whatever brushes I find to suit...
    4 points
  19. Had a mate come round one night and we cleaned up and unsealed the underneath of the tray and cab, inner guards etc. Painted the bed strips satin black ready to put the timber in for the final time. Also got some tyres test fit on the artilleries with the new hub caps and whitewalls. Looking forward to getting these on!
    4 points
  20. Got to work ordering a heap of bits for it which eventually turned up from the states. New front bonnet badge, side bonnet badges, new tail light brakets and glass lense, new side mirrors. Front indicators (didnt have any)
    4 points
  21. Shit, that 4 years went quick.. All of a sudden I have a chance to do some work on this thanks to covid19.. Got my ducks in a row.
    4 points
  22. Just to add. I have a 3/1 diff ratio so a 6 speed/double overdrive box is not required. I'm unwilling to save money on a gearbox to spend more on a diff rebuild.
    3 points
  23. In the midst of a level 4 covid19 lockdown...the courier delivered this essential item I only ordered from ebay about 7 days ago. Crazy fast delivery compared to my usual 6 weeks wait...
    3 points
  24. Next up was get stuck into the rust. Managed to find a skilled older tradesman who was keen to tackle it. And also keen to let me come and help him which was awesome. Learnt a heap of new skills and was epic watching him hammer and dolly out the dents. The front drivers side door had swung round and stoved in the corner of the cab as well as bent the door at some point. The yanks must of tried to bang the dent out from behind via piercing holes in the inner guard to put a bar or something through to hammer dent out from the inside (unsuccesfully) it ended up leaving a heap of holes for water to get in which in turn rusted the bottom of the inner and outer cab corner out. The rear cab corner also needed replacing on the same side, outer only. Had a bit of rust around one tail gate hinge to fix as well. Apart from that she was solid as , floors and doors and guards are good as! Next up was get stuck into the rust. Managed to find a skilled older tradesman who was keen to tackle it. And also keen to let me come and help him which was awesome. Learnt a heap of new skills and was epic watching him hammer and dolly out the dents. The front drivers side door had swung round and stoved in the corner of the cab as well as bent the door at some point. The yanks must of tried to bang the dent out from behind via piercing holes in the inner guard to put a bar or something through to hammer dent out from the inside (unsuccesfully) it ended up leaving a heap of holes for water to get in which in turn rusted the bottom of the inner and outer cab corner out. The rear cab corner also needed replacing on the same side, outer only. Had a bit of rust around one tail gate hinge to fix as well. Apart from that she was solid as , floors and doors and guards are good as!
    3 points
  25. Heads all stripped down stoked to find inlet is factory CNC ported (fuck yes) exhaust is a bit shit though, I'll tidy that up do a valve grind and put back together. Found the valve seats clearly weren't sealing well obviously has been left sitting for years and got some surface rust.
    3 points
  26. Had a mobile auto electrician come around last Friday and spend a few hours diagnosing the problem. When I had run the itg and igf wires from ecu to igniter via existing wires in engine loom for some reason I spliced into them and left them running to where ever they went which was connected to +12v. Snipped the two wires going to somewhere and got a few splutters from turning over. Flipped dizzy timing 180° and it fired up. Engine runs well with no leaks, went for a quick drive about 20kms and all seems OK. Booked in for cert when quarantine is lifted, still need to either buy positive offset 7.5s for rear or just cert on 7s all round as I have clearance issues on the rear.
    3 points
  27. So, I have had some time here and there to work on this lately. Did a couple of small jobs I had been worried about. Drilled out two snapped-off bolts in the front valance. I've never had much success with screw extraction but i managed to drill these out with no real damage. The thread of both holes is still good enough to hold their bolts so I'll take that as a win. The next thing was to roll the rear guards. This was something the body shop was supposed to do but didn't, so I thought I'd give it a go myself. Better to do it now rather than paint everything and wish I'd done it later when I need 5mm extra to fit wide wheels or something. Got some technique advice from @sheepers and got to it slowly with tiny tap tap taps. Took a while and I was bricking it the whole time, but managed to get the lips all rolled up nicely without fucking anything up. Hooray! GTO arches are double walled so probably harder to muck up than on a lot of cars. I gained about 12mm extra space, which is better than nothing. I pinched the previously done front guards up a bit more too for max space possible, without flares. I also got some paint matched up and finally started getting colour back on the car. I've started with the underside of the bonnet, inside the petrol flap and the top parts of the engine bay etc (not doing the full bay for now, maybe one day if the engine has to come out for anything) to test out the colour and my technique. Looking good so far I think. The colour does not match the original that well but looks really cool. Deep, dark blue inside but more purpleish and grey outside in the bright sun. Quite hard to capture in photos.
    3 points
  28. Nearly forgot took it for its first drive to the end of the road before we pulled it apart after a tow start down the drive. Couple of final photos before it got pulled down
    2 points
  29. Couple more pics of whe n we bought it. Managed to drive it on the trailer which was ideal after a push start. Got it home and test fit the tailgate.
    2 points
  30. Boom it runs! Took all the sharp edges out of inlet as well but overall these heads were mint! Lapping in valves took some work but did eventually come up really good. Started first pop normally takes some cranking. The part thats been attacked with the angry end was a hard edge that extended out really choking the exhaust. Once i had that opened up and smoothed out the rest of the port was actually pretty good, i opened up the port at the flange to match the exhaust and called it done.
    2 points
  31. Checked and adjusted the valve clearances, all were fairly close just minor adjustments. also replaced the waterpump, flushed the cooling system and refilled with some tectalloy coolant. So was a productive first day of isolation. Would have been nice to brake clean the grime under the engine covers but were running on limited supplies currently
    2 points
  32. 2 points
  33. https://cardwells.co.nz/clutches/howe-hydraulic-release-bearing.html There's a few places that sell them. They're simple enough to setup - basically subtract the distance from the back of the block to edge of your clutch fingers, and the distance from gearbox snout to edge of bellhousing. Allow the smallest amount of freeboard. You just shim the whole setup to where you want. Recommend two hoses, one from pedal "in" and one coming back "out" so it can be bled without the need to take gearbox/bellhousing off.
    1 point
  34. Also I wouldnt fret any about a weak fifth gear. It's not like you'll be smashing into it. Even at the drags you'll never see top gear.
    1 point
  35. Seat wouldnt move backwards and forwards so pulled that out and cleaned up all the sliders and got that working again. Also spot welded new bed angle strips on the side of the tray as the old ones were rusted out. Gave the panels a good bang with a hammer and dolly and straightened them out a heap! Gas welded up any splits or breaks in them as well.
    1 point
  36. Had a customer ring me this morning, I had already told him yesterday we can do a cert on essential service vehicles but we have to be able to prove it They cant prove it is so he said 'cant you just say you checked it yesterday?' No. Boss also had some dude ring him on Wednesday assuming he could drop his car off at bosses house for a cert while the lockdown was in effect
    1 point
  37. Luckily my clutch master and slave arrived on time, put them in this morning and even had my 7 year old daughter push the clutch pedal for me to bleed them.. Stoked. Just have to readjust the travel, they seal a bit better than the old ones.. Now to just drive round the block lots..
    1 point
  38. I went out on Monday and got most of the to buy list. The battery was put on order, it didn't turn up before lock down so that will hold things up. I remembered that I had used up all the heat shrink I had so got some more of that. Also got a new bottle of Maguires Ultra Rapid Detailer. It's pretty much the only thing to use on a Satin paint job, Time to stop watching You tube videos and get down into the garage and make a big dent in the list.
    1 point
  39. Bigs and littles. Looks a little extra stretched im experimenting with engine placement to get exhaust tucked in further.
    1 point
  40. soooooo it looks like im going to have time on my hands...being in lockdown for a month. so i started getting somethings done......like the cabin area ..i wanted it all painted in the dash are so i can start fitting the dash back in. so i started with pushing it outside and washing it down with degreeser . after the metal prep and another wash down. and then a coat of POR15 in silver.....had some left over from a few i bought a while ago. nice and clean...
    1 point
  41. Anyway, tyres for the slots has moved down the priority list, not least of all because the tyre bloke is a germy cunt at the best of times. The other day it made a funny noise, followed by a lot of funny noises and some shaking. Turns out the rear UJ was fucked. Original as far as I know, I've always greased it but it'd obviously had enough. Pulled the prop off and yes, the UJ was proper, 2 sets of needles gone, rusted to fuck, fucked. Braced myself for a day of swearing, bleeding and hitting things very hard. Ended up with about 2 hours of easy-peasy. All came apart fine, mating surfaces cleaned up fine and it fell back together Err, OK. Road test fine. "Essential" road test, obviously, Constable. Anyway, pics. Also, decided to use my old winch bracket as a more than ample push bar mount and light bracket. Got a Landy push bar so I'll chop it all up and see where we end up. /with a big pile of chopped up useless metal probably. No, the saw is for marking right angles. Before anybody fancies making a funny. More tomorrow. We may be in lock down but the sun's shining
    1 point
  42. Calipers are rebuilt. I had to use the original retaining spring ring things that hold the seals on as the replacement ones were too short and made the seal bunch up between the ends. I made 3 sets of spacer before I got the thickness right so the disc is in the middle of the calipers. The spacers still have to be tig'ed on and the brackets painted.
    1 point
  43. so i ended up getting that 40L dry bag. This Givi one. shit its good. 150 clams was steep but man so worth it. name brand quality multiple little stash pockets and all of the boomer accessories. fits my tent, sleeping bag and bedroll in the no dramas. will be a bit of tetris to try and squeeze clothes and other essentials in there but i will make it no doubt. The beauty of the durable grippy material is that it sticks to the seat, and you can lean on it, making an extremely uncomfortable bike marginally more comfortable. Bring on some beach nangs in a couple weeks to shake this puppy down
    1 point
  44. So I bought Sheepers old Link G4. I had forgotten how much the looms cost GEEEEEEZ$$$$$ Since I can't leave shit alone, I decided to change the Stepper motor idle control valve that needs 6 outputs, to a Solenoid idle control valve that only uses 1. I just happened to have a random nissan one, so I used that. I chiselled an adapter plate out of some 100X40 bar. A combination of the 4 jaw in the lathe and the 12mm end-mill in the mill. I could have done a better job aligning the middle hole of both. I had to adjust the hole a bit. First time tig welding Aluminium. Not sure I had the settings right. It worked okay, but looks a bit poo. The cable tray is a bit in the way. But it fits okay.
    1 point
  45. 1 point
  46. phwoar could Geophy Sr get any cooler!? thats dreamy! Yea, the front brake is garbage, about as effective as an australian prime minister tbh. Was gonna try inspect the shoes etc this weekend but i guess they are just shit from factory. But these things engine brake so good you just gotta get used to riding them like quad bikes Another fred update: @00quattro00 bought a 95 XR250 out of pure jealousy of this thing. so we went for a nang into the Kawekas and up the Mangatutu road. Bloody good fun! River crossings, tight, winding gravel and the always exciting paranoia of "do i have enough fuel to get home". We did a 170km loop, most of it gravel, and i still had plenty of petrol in there so i expect to get a 200km+ range outta this thing.
    1 point
  47. Pulled out all the doors I have and decided to flag the originals and go with the other set of rx4 doors I have, as straight as the originals are they have a few hours of rust work in the the bottom so time dictates it's far simpler to go with the 4's Originals, So I went ahead and stripped the blues and did some minor panel work on the bottom corners which had been dinged/bent slightly, they've got a shit ton of paint on them, like three separate primer/top coats with the last being enamel I guess as it turns to a runny mess when I hit it with the blue wheel.. Patch in the middle is me trying stripper on it, other patch is the only ding, Some very minor surface rust along the bottom seam, was also under the seam sealer so hopefully it's not in the seam. A good penatrent should fix it I guess.. Same as the other door along the bottom Also started stripping the drivers rear 1/4, Shit paint.. Shit primer, from memory is only 1 or 2 coats.. Glad my mate pursueded me to strip it, there's lots of little worms underneath the primer..
    1 point
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