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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/25/20 in all areas

  1. Got the gate rail in and put in the guides. Gate works mint. Today I'll get the motor drive sorted so it works off the remote.
    16 points
  2. Been keeping busy while under the weather with the Coronavirus Finally my summit order showed up. I’m a bit embarrassed that I didn’t realise Japrace in Chch sells the AN fittings for pretty much the same price. Won’t be shopping American again, especially with the exchange rate as it is. Had to go into japrace to do my panic shopping. Got a fuel pressure gauge and some hose and fittings. Fuel line looks pretty tidy now. It’s -8 between the rails but only -6 from the pump. Just trying to save on fittings, the rails were -8 female. for anyone doing an engine swap (with EFI) the Corvette FPR/filter is a great little number! Mine fits in place of original massive filter under the bmw. Cheap too. Saves running a return from the rails. Started pulling bmw loom apart to see what I can biff. I want to retain a few sensors I think, so that dash works normally. Shouldn’t actually be too much of a mare. Will get commodore loom modified by someone way more special than me. Stocked up on piss for the apocalypse. I got fucking smashed last night on red wine and working from home today is not great. I reckon this lockdown is going to be one of the best things ever for productivity on oldschool. Will certainly be helpful for me. Sadly I’m still working full time (we build/fix hydro power stations) but I’m sure I’ll manage to sneak out to the garage every now and then! Stay safe out there cunts!
    7 points
  3. Anyway, tyres for the slots has moved down the priority list, not least of all because the tyre bloke is a germy cunt at the best of times. The other day it made a funny noise, followed by a lot of funny noises and some shaking. Turns out the rear UJ was fucked. Original as far as I know, I've always greased it but it'd obviously had enough. Pulled the prop off and yes, the UJ was proper, 2 sets of needles gone, rusted to fuck, fucked. Braced myself for a day of swearing, bleeding and hitting things very hard. Ended up with about 2 hours of easy-peasy. All came apart fine, mating surfaces cleaned up fine and it fell back together Err, OK. Road test fine. "Essential" road test, obviously, Constable. Anyway, pics. Also, decided to use my old winch bracket as a more than ample push bar mount and light bracket. Got a Landy push bar so I'll chop it all up and see where we end up. /with a big pile of chopped up useless metal probably. No, the saw is for marking right angles. Before anybody fancies making a funny. More tomorrow. We may be in lock down but the sun's shining
    6 points
  4. soooooo it looks like im going to have time on my hands...being in lockdown for a month. so i started getting somethings done......like the cabin area ..i wanted it all painted in the dash are so i can start fitting the dash back in. so i started with pushing it outside and washing it down with degreeser . after the metal prep and another wash down. and then a coat of POR15 in silver.....had some left over from a few i bought a while ago. nice and clean...
    5 points
  5. Got the motor drive installed and put the rack on the gate. All wired up and working mint. Put some primer on the gate because it's kiln dried timber and I don't want it to move around to much when it gets wet.
    3 points
  6. First time its seen the sun.... But I've also gotten an offer I cant refuse so it's been sold. New owner is buying for his teenage kids as a joint project and for their first car. Now I can focus on this Land Rover...
    2 points
  7. thanks guys, we are really happy with it. and i built a fence. well, me and a mate put the pailings up. now i needt o build the two gates and paint it. easy. 2020-03-15_04-41-40 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-03-15_04-41-33 by sheepers, on Flickr
    2 points
  8. New owner took it home this arvo before the lockdown THEREIN ENDS THE THREAD...
    1 point
  9. Finished it: I've tuned it since this ride, now running much stronger. It's got huge torque, but the tyres on it make the handling feel like your riding a loaf of bread... I'll swap the tyres out and possibly upgrade the handlebars, as its sketchy as fuck to ride. It lacks any feeling in the controls and just loosely goes "about where" you want it to, unlike my other gopeds that handle much better. Anyways - my motor works, so that was my main motivation for this project, so I'm stoked with that!
    1 point
  10. No charge and weak power steer, not something as simple as drive belt slippage?
    1 point
  11. Sheet of glass and fine sandpaper ? Or just sheet of glass and grinding paste ?
    1 point
  12. That's it, I found it this morning after refining my search terms. I don't have a stone big enough unfortunately, but I just found another pump at the wreckers. If I can sort this I will be able to carry on testing over the next week's..
    1 point
  13. no worries Gordon, I was an auto sparky in a former life, so feel free to ask electrical questions Yep must admit I was really pleased when Jacinda announced the lockdown. We are ahead of the ball at the moment, and better to take a bit of pain now, than be dealing with a fuckin huge disaster later by dragging our feet. I have never been a Labour supporter, but the way our PM reacted to the Christchurch massacre, and now to COVID-19 has been really impressive, and I am full of admiration for her. Can't believe Trump is going to ease the lockdown and send people back to work! What a moron! This really is history in the making, and with the wide range of reactions from governments around the world you just know that some of them are going to get it so wrong. I feel really proud to be a Kiwi at this moment, and think we are in the best place in the world to deal with what is about to unfold. I have just been to Supercheap, BNT etc and stocked up on parts. I'm actually looking forward to getting some solid time to spend on the projects without interruptions!
    1 point
  14. Hey Gordon, I can answer that one mate. Ballast resistor does not care which wire you put at which end. So terminal "A" going to coil + is correct. Terminal "B" goes to ignition +12v, ie. the ignition switch. Some people fuse this, I never do. You run the risk of melting the wire if you ever short it out. But more likely to give problems if you run it through a fusebox. Manufacturers have done both over the years, although I would say most are fused now. Also, if there is a spare spade terminal on the starter solenoid, this is the "ballast bypass" and can be connected straight to the coil + or terminal A in addition to the above wiring. This gives the coil full battery power while cranking, instead of the 5-6 volts it would otherwise receive via the resistor, and gives it a nice fat spark while cranking. But don't be tempted to bypass the ballast resistor permanently, you will burn out the points in a very short space of time. Hope this makes sense P.S. I am doing my last run into town this morning for some parts before NZ goes into full lockdown mode. Lots of work I can do on the Mk1 while this is happening. Conrad
    1 point
  15. From an emergency management point of view, i'd be bloody stoked if the cops have time to do WOF checks in the next 4 weeks.
    1 point
  16. Second observation is that the engine bay wiring is an absolute rat's nest with almost everything disconnected and lots of wires cut. I spent a bit of time trying to figure out which wires should go where, but eventually gave up. Figured it would be less time consuming if I just jury rigged my own wires to get the engine running. It was easy enough to identify the main power lead for the starter motor so I re-attached that. I gave up on identifying the exciter wire for the starter motor so ended up running a wire directly from the positive terminal on the battery via a push switch to the small terminal on the starter so I am now able to get the engine to crank over. Moved on to the coil which again had no wiring present. Managed to find the lead from the distributor so attached that to the negative terminal on the coil. There is an existing wire that runs from one terminal on the ballast resistor to the positive terminal on the coil. All of the other wires near the coil have been cut. It is at this point that I need some help as I've no idea how the ballast resistor that is attached to the coil should be wired. Below is a pic of the setup. Is anyone able to confirm what I should have wired to terminal A and what I should have wired to terminal B ?
    1 point
  17. Yeah that was awesome. I'll be doing a pedal box setup on my imp site to the massive weight difference front to rear. Way too easy to lock the front currently. Which also means I'm missing out on better braking to be had from the rear which has so much weight on it. Reading what you've posted has got me all fizzing about the fun aspect of setting it up. Cheers for the rant. Please rant some more. Oh and it's been noted that you've still not told us about the hamfisted tyre kicker.
    1 point
  18. My mate Olaf gave me a hand to make the big gate so that's done. Then I ran power and sensor wires to the motor drive base plate and Nick the sparky gave me a hand to concrete the pad for the rail.
    1 point
  19. Not much chevy left. 50mm to drop further, few more little bits to cut out. Looks weird as hell. but seems to be working so far.
    1 point
  20. Over the weekend I'll embark on Phase 2 of the project. This entails getting my complete donor HiAce drive able so that I can confirm the running condition of the supposedly reconditioned 4Y as well as the condition of the drive train. As part of the exercise I'm also going to convert the HiAce from rod shift gears to cable shift so that I can prove my concept. I'd like to take this opportunity to thank those of you have guided me along the way thus far. I have no physical support mechanism across here in OZ so I greatly value all of the encouragement, comments and suggestions that have been put forward regarding my Thames project. I also value the detail that others have provided in their own build threads as this is often fruit for thought. I really appreciate the oldschool community. Thanks all.
    1 point
  21. I've now pretty much wrapped up the "proof of concept" phase and took a few minutes to update my list of parts that will be used. In summary the list is as follows: Toyota 4Y engine out of a mid 80's HiAce using standard engine mounts cut off the HiAce cross member and glued on to the back of the Mitsi Starwagon suspension beam. Final fueling option still to be confirmed but is either going to be a single side draft carbie on a slightly modified inlet manifold or full LPG. Top hung side shift 5 speed gearbox also out of a mid 80's HiAce. Using a standard gearbox mount that is rotated 90 degrees and shifted slightly forward to clear the Thames chassis cross brace. Clutch actuator will remain hydraulic using the standard HiAce slave and the Thames master (I haven't tried this but if I encounter issues I'll revert to the HiAce master). Gear selection will remain a column shift using a column rod fabricated from the upper portion of the Thames rod using the Thames upper mount and the lower portion of the Starwagon rod using a fabricated lower mount. A second cable sourced from the Express will replace the Starwagon shift rod that connects to the gearbox. Complete rear axle out of a mid 80's HiAce fixed in place using a heavy duty 4 bar rear suspension kit sourced from a Hot Rod shop and fitted with coil overs. Drive shaft out of a mid 80's HiAce cut to the correct length. Mid 80's Mitsubishi L300 Starwagon complete front suspension beam, including all suspension and braking components. Mounted to the Thames chassis using fabricated l brackets that pickup the standard Thames mounting holes along the chassis rails. Mid 90's Mitsubishi L300 Express power steering rack fitted with the earlier Starwagon rack end joints and mounted using the original mounting lugs removed from the Express suspension beam and welded on to the front of the Starwagon front suspension beam. Mid 80's Mitsubishi front beam strut rods mounted rearward facing. Bolted on to the Starwagon lower suspension arms as per standard. Mid 90's Mitsubishi L300 Express stabiliser bar located in front of the suspension beam, with chassis mounting points moved 40mm inwards on each side to line up with the Thames chassis rails. On the suspension side the bar will be joined to the Starwagon lower arms using the mounting lugs cut off the Express lower arms and welded on to the Starwagon arms in the same location. Steering will use the standard Thames column, steering wheel, indicator stalk housing, indicator lever and upper mounting point. With the Thames steering box now deleted, the lower mounting point for the column outer will consist of a fabricated L bracket picking up the Thames plate at the bottom of the outer column and the standard steerign box mounting holes on the Thames chassis. The existing worm gear at the bottom of the inner column will be machined off and a spline cut into the shaft. A new universal joint will be sourced to attach the inner column to the steering angle box out of the mid 90's Mitsi Express. The shorter steering rod out of the Express that uses a rag joint to bolt up to the steering rack at one end and a factory welded universal to mount to the angle box at the other end will be shortened to the correct length for the Thames by cutting off the UJ and machining a spline into the shorter shaft what can be mated to a newly purchased UJ. An electro hydraulic power steering pump (final make to be confirmed) will be sourced from a wreckers to power the Express rack. All credit to go to Browndog for this suggestion. The Toyota HiAce brake master cylinder will be used in conjunction with an aftermarket remote booster setup. Smaller bits and pieces will be selected on an "as needed basis" when final fitting takes place. Hope I haven't overlooked anything major. Please shout if I have. With my list updated I figured it was time to drop the Thames back on to its wheels as I'll need my axle stands elsewhere for the next phase. It's not the greatest picture but this should give an idea of the final front ride height with the L300 suspension in place. The back is still standard Thames ride height as I haven't mocked up the back. The ride height difference is noticeable. Please forgive the manky front wheels. I still need to source metric lug nuts for the Dragways. Thanks for reading.
    1 point
  22. I had some other things that needed done today, so only got about an hour to potter on the Thames. Thought I would spend that time figuring out how the Starwagon column shifter works. As mentioned in a previous post the Starwagon shifter has two selectors, one a flexible cable and the other a rod selector. It was a fruitful exercise as I was able to confirm that the flexible cable selects the shift gate plane (my terminology is probably off but what I mean by "plane" is either 1st and 2nd on plane one, 3rd and 4th on plane two, or 5th and reverse on plane three). The rod mechanism then selects the gear on that plane. I'm mildly optimistic that I can get the cable to work for the HiAce box with a few brackets and swivels. I'd like to investigate replacing the rod selector with a second flex cable so tomorrow I'm going to strip the gearbox selector mechanism out of the Express van. Even although it's a floor shifter, it uses flexible cables for both selector mechanisms and there may be a remote chance that I can use one of the cables as a replacement for the rod shifter on the Starwagon mechanism. Just before lunchtime, the courier pitched up with another box of British goodness from my mate Sandy at the Thames 400E Owners Club. I'm now the proud owner of a full set of newly manufactured exterior door handles. The Anglia 100E shares the same handles which are still being manufactured on a small scale in the UK. Sandy provides either a 2 handle set for the Thames ute or a 4 handle set for the bus. I went for the bus set as it gave me the T handle for the back door as well as a spare passenger handle for my panel van which isn't equipped with a load area side door. I figured having a spare handle in stock wouldn't be a bad thing. The added bonus is that all 4 handles come equipped with a matching lock set and a total of 8 matching keys. Appeals to my OCD as my current 3 handles are each operated by a different key. The box also contained a NOS Thames badge for the rear. The hole in the badge is for the handle that lowers the spare wheel. I'd also ordered another indicator lens as one in the last batch was a different shade of orange which has been driving me crazy. I'll keep the unmatched one as a spare. Sandy included a full set of new lens mounting screws as these were inadvertently left out of my last parcel. The last gem in the box was a new seal for the engine cover box which has an interesting profile. I'll miss breathing engine fumes in the cabin when I fit this. Pics of the UK goodness below.
    1 point
  23. And here's what the inside of the fridge/airbox looks like: And as finishing touches I vinyl wrapped the serving fridge and spun up some new tap handles: Kauri Puriri Final product:
    1 point
  24. Been tidying up the last things, the list is quite short now. Just boost and vac gauges to fit, which I ordered off aliX a month ago and are not very likely to turn up anytime soon I guess. Give me what you have lying around right now you selfish bitch. Ok. Put some rubbery stuff up in the front wheel arches for some splashy splashy protection. Pretty much the same on the other side. Then I got a Hilux airbox from the wreckers and hacked it about so it could act as the ventilation inlet filter. Fucking hard to mig 0.4mm steel but I have the hole chasing skillz. Seems to do the job ok; Also it has mudflaps in the back now. Also I fitted the CB that was in the bus into it, 10-4 big buddy.
    1 point
  25. The lower A arm mounting points for the sway bar are way different. The Starwagon has a U shaped bracket as shown in pic 1 whilst the Express has a round eyelet as shown in pic 2. All I'll need to do is cut the respective mountings off the arms and then glue the Express eyelets onto the Starwagon arms. Shouldn't be that difficult. In conclusion I'm pretty chuffed with the new setup. It's way neater having the bar tucked up against the chassis and the steering rag joint now has heaps of clearance. Thanks for reading.
    1 point
  26. However, looking at it closely it is the opposite setup to the Starwagon in that the centre mounts fix directly to the chassis as depicted in the first picture below and the long rod type fixings are attached to the lower A arms. My first impression was that this setup is more suited to what I am trying to achieve so I pulled the bar out and laid it next to the Starwagon one for comparison. Pic two below shows the differences in the setup.
    1 point
  27. So with the preferred strut rod position finalised I once again climbed under the Mitsi Express to check out its sway bar setup. First thing I discovered is that I was wrong in yesterday's posting. Without having a proper look I had assumed that because the strut rods were rearward facing the sway bar was the same . Wrong ! The Express sway bar actually sits in front of the suspension beam.
    1 point
  28. made a start on the rear tub..(its only a mini tub just as far as the chassis rails)..started on the drivers side. so im wanting to run a 9" rear wheel (10" all up ) not greedy. and i do have a banded 13" steel that is 9"........handy ay...it does fit but under any form of suspension travel it will rub so i cut the rear half of the guard out and left the front half in place i removed the old lip and clean it up as well as the steel that was left over all the way to the chassis rial. i welded it back in and added a strip of metal so now i have 12" gap........huge re fit the rim heaps of room now. just need to weld the supports to the tub and make 2 small filler panels and then do the other side.....but very happy with the room now..well worth it.
    1 point
  29. I thought I would look up what a zephyr manifold looks like, and yes it is definitely no worse than that. In fact I believe mine to be superior in a number of ways. I suspect I would have been an engineering visionary had I worked in the British car industry in it's heyday, all I would need to do would be to sit in the design meetings and suggest that maybe we shouldn't do this in the most retarded way possible.
    1 point
  30. The swapmeet was a success in that I ended up with $500 burning a hole in my pocket. This was more about the quantity of shit moved, rather than selling things for what they are actually worth, but the result was what I wanted. So I went and bought some bends. When the manifold came apart it was clearly leaking in a couple of places, so this is a good time to rectify things. First i bolted the flanges on to see if all was orderly in that department, which it was. 1.75" primaries I ended up making a mandrel to smash into the end of the tubes to get the shape more or less in the right squish to fit in the flange Then pointed them to the correct turbo inlet and tacked into the flange; Then the other 3; Then weld the inside of the hole. I left 5mm of space for the weld to go Then used a die grinder to clean things up all nice and purty I cut up the wee adaptor plate that was part of the previous install to give me a turbo inlet with pre made 2" pipe inlets. It already had the EGT Sensor fitting and pre squished pipe. This got held in place with a welded bar while everything was in place on the engine. I then bolted it all onto my spare head for checksies and to keep the flanges flat. This shit just got fudged till it worked Then much weldy weldy and some cleanup of the biggest dags. Then I bolted it on after applying a bit of VHT to hide much uglyness. Hopefully sorted and when I test it there will be a few less squealy/ticking/chugging noises. I call the design a 'hybrid log'. The theory behind it is to direct as much of the exhaust as possible into the turbo without any consideration for pulse sequencing, equal length runners and/or scavenging etc at all. I count the result as an almost perfect success in this respect.
    1 point
  31. small update but another thing ticked of the huge list. battary box. i just fitted a new battery to the mk5 so i just took measurements from that and made a box. the good old mk3 has a different chassis rail on the right to the left...the right has more room as the filler hole /neck was there....and the box will fit so i made a hole the box will hard up against the the side wall so i thought i would clean it up and POR15 the area first sank it in and welded up. made a top still heaps of room for mufflers on each side.
    1 point
  32. So I went and found the absolute most polar opposite vehicle to something oldschool If mods think this is a boring daily feel free to delete. My now 1 month old Tesla Model 3 Standard Range +. I have been a Tesla fan for many many years and it has been a long term goal to own one. So this is the new daily. All I can say is what an absolutely phenomenal vehicle. All you need to do is drive one of these and you will be sold. I am still into oldschool so dont get me wrong but man, these cars are really next level. Thought I would throw a post up as probably a bit out of the ordinary for oldschool haha. Anyone got an oldschool sticker for the back window ha? Here it is on its maiden voyage down south from Auckland:
    1 point
  33. made some panels to covers... the firewall recess
    1 point
  34. That’s the millennial quote of the day there. No more dyno tuning, just windows updates
    1 point
  35. It was sunny, so I painted... Getting ready for assembly, I need to pull the cones to replace with some better ones I have here. Also, found a set of new shocks that I received from somewhere.... #biwinnning
    1 point
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