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  1. Not much chevy left. 50mm to drop further, few more little bits to cut out. Looks weird as hell. but seems to be working so far.
    9 points
  2. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - Replacing the toe board. Found some scrap metal just large enough, made the toe board and welded it in. Trimmed and checking for fit. Fought some indecision whether to butt or lap weld. Went with the butt weld for a flush join. This scrap had been destined to become the left inner sill plate until I realized it did not match the original thickness. Made a thicker sill and threw the thin one into the scrap pile. Tack welded. Some rust craters above the weld line are filled in. One plug weld connects to the support bracket underneath. Stitch welded between the tacks and ground flush. Moving on to the side of trans tunnel next. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    8 points
  3. Suspension brace didn't fit with new plenum. probably could have made the plenum 15mm shorter and it would have. but good excuse to make lightweight version brace. Almost ready for test run to the wall of shame for the old one
    7 points
  4. I was quite taken by a pipe guy on the instagram pics & vids thread so built one for my wife. Working out a lady to go with him now.
    6 points
  5. 5 points
  6. A week or two ago I got my indicator mounts and seat stay done (just three tabs with holes in them) I cant weld but they should at least stay put.. need to lengthen the wires and get them reconnected later Also got some time in the shed yesterday and was able to smash out shaping the seat I had gotten some foam off a mate who's work had an upholstery department no longer in use. I also used many layers of old yoga matt to build up the dip in the middle of the seat. Ruff cut it after the glue had dried and shaped it with the grinder and a flappy disk yesterday. Pretty stoked I can move on to making a cover now, need to get the misses to teach me how to sew. (Same mate also gave me a large roll of black vinyl intended for outdoor furniture so should last as a bike seat no problem)
    5 points
  7. Such a good trip. Scenery was serene Keen for rnd 2 at some point. Need to fine another choice location l
    4 points
  8. Heh, water and rocks Also clay and rocks
    3 points
  9. My mate Olaf gave me a hand to make the big gate so that's done. Then I ran power and sensor wires to the motor drive base plate and Nick the sparky gave me a hand to concrete the pad for the rail.
    3 points
  10. Attacked my exhausts - cutting a fair bit off them, all in order of gaining a few inches of ground clearance. Then I shaped it a bit more to mimic the upper one: Before After Trying to follow the line of the rear leg angle as much as possible. Before After It's just sitting there loosely at the moment, but looking about right. I liked it better before...but there's always a price to pay in exchange for some practicality. I think I would have gained a fair amount of "lean" before it hits now. Probably 10° or more additional???
    3 points
  11. All the serenities So many pictures to go through, epic weekend, top blokes, much lols and one winch in need of non rusty power terminals...
    3 points
  12. Went for a 5 day camp couple weeks ago I have a roof tent or a tent swag that i would normally use Was doing one night stops and was solo so tried a different setup,with rear draws and rear seat folded down had a flat surface so brought a single mattress and slept in the cruiser I could have my awning with kitchen underneath setup in 8 mins. Diffently wasnt roughing it had my engel to keep food and beers chilled and the cruiser has rear screen so watched a movie most nights with proper Dolby surround sound lol Mate has a 4wd space gear with pretty sweet set up aswell
    3 points
  13. Enjoy it boiz, gutted I'll miss it.
    3 points
  14. And here's what the inside of the fridge/airbox looks like: And as finishing touches I vinyl wrapped the serving fridge and spun up some new tap handles: Kauri Puriri Final product:
    3 points
  15. thanks guys, we are really happy with it. and i built a fence. well, me and a mate put the pailings up. now i needt o build the two gates and paint it. easy. 2020-03-15_04-41-40 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-03-15_04-41-33 by sheepers, on Flickr
    3 points
  16. Still more progress, I bought the nuts to put the bonnet spear on that I had re-chromed months ago. The chrome cost about as much as I paid for the whole car, worth it though. Rear seat belts and seat in. The mounting points for the outside belts were about 3mm too low and the beads of the bolts would not go in without undoing the double plate, which meant jacking the car up and taking off the back wheels. Another 5 minute job that took about half an hour. I tried the back seat out and there is enough leg room for me to sit in the back with the front seat all the way back, for those who don't know me I'm 6 foot 5 tall. Even though these cars aren't that wide, they are reasonably long. Here is the list of stuff to buy, tomorrow And the list of stuff to finish the car, it is probably missing a whole heap of stuff. I started off with bleed the brakes, had a not very old bottle of brake fluid. I found all the fittings that never got past being hand tight and made a mess on the floor. The fittings are now tight and I'll get more fluid tomorrow. The joys of building a car over too many years and forgetting stuff that is only half done.
    2 points
  17. I’ve been doing a few bits and pieces on the TC. Mainly just waiting for the clutch parts to come in. I quizzed the ladies at Vinz and they looked up my rego in their system. Said last reg pre 1991 so no brake declarations required which is good. Blasted and painted engine covers. Blasted the bash guard and etch primed it. Engine cover pictured is straight out of blaster.
    2 points
  18. Haven't had huge motivation level behind working on this the last month, so not a lot of progress really. Work is pretty hectic atm with the whole COVID-19 thing... I suspect I'll either get absolutely zero time to work on it in the next month, or the Uni will close down and I might have more time that I know what to do with... Anyway, I drive this thing with headphones in most of the time, listening to audiobooks. This means I don't hear all the sounds it makes. My headphones were flat the other day, and I drove home without them... Really really odd noise was coming from the gearbox area, related to vehicle speed. Didn't take a lot of sleuthing to find the problem: This was completely dry just a couple of months ago when I put the new diff in, so it's let go in a pretty decent way. Managed to get a replacement seal and the use of a hoist as I don't like rolling around on the ground if I can avoid it. About a 15 min job to swap it out, took longer to refill the gearbox than swap the seal. Seems fine now, no weird noise and no leaking... I sort of suspect the output shaft support bush might be flogged out, but this gearbox will be replaced once the new engine goes in anyway, so as long as it holds oil I'll be happy. Silly regular maintenance instead of mods. Lame. Front left wheel bearing felt a tiny bit loose too, so gave that a nip up, and tightened the hand-brake cable too. Once I fix the exhaust leak at the manifold - exhaust point it would probably actually pass a warrant!
    2 points
  19. Calipers are rebuilt. I had to use the original retaining spring ring things that hold the seals on as the replacement ones were too short and made the seal bunch up between the ends. I made 3 sets of spacer before I got the thickness right so the disc is in the middle of the calipers. The spacers still have to be tig'ed on and the brackets painted.
    2 points
  20. Another project that's been distracting me from getting the damn Hilux finished: Home bar/beer delivery setup As can be dredged from the archives of this thread I am a keen home brewer, and have wanted to setup a fancy beer font setup since our new house already had a basic bar: For the font I bought some shiny Italian taps and some 4" sanitary tube and elbows (dairy spec), that uses triclamps to section together. Here is a test fit (sans taps): Then welded on some legs to fix it to the bench, and buddy CNCd up some tap adapters radiused to the tube. These are acetal as you want the taps insulated from the font so the fridge doesn't have to work too hard. Delivering keg beer from a remote fridge sounds easy enough (recall tui ad), but there's actually some engineering involved as the temperature spike that happens to the beer when it leaves the fridge and hits the tap causes the CO2 to come out of solution = glass full of foam. So somehow you need to keep the beerlines and taps cold all the time, and since I wasn't prepared to spend $1000's on a commercial glycol-cooled setup, I decided to try an air-cooled design ala: Basically in the bottom of the fridge that houses the kegs is a plastic box with a CPU fan pushing cold air up a main tube that houses the beer lines and exposes the back end of the tap to cold air. The tube also contains a smaller diameter return line that allows the air to turn around and return to the fridge to complete the circuit. The first implementation of the above did not really work out, I used some ~3" diameter plastic 'oil suction hose' as the main tube and I was hoping the 5mm wall thickness would be enough insulation, but the font got really cold and the fridge ran pretty much constantly. At that stage decided to go all in and cast some insulation into the font body, which was a bit scary given the cost of the stainless pipe: I also insulated the section of tube that runs between the fridge and the font, which together with the above got the temp leakage under control.
    2 points
  21. Thought i would include a couple of photos of just how wonderful the body is of this old chevy. I do however have a couple of replacement panels for the rear quarter panels and the tailpan. Todays progress, was to remove the chevrolet floor and bring the two halves a little closer to see what else will need the chop.
    2 points
  22. 2 points
  23. A speedy erection is the main advantage I think.
    1 point
  24. So when's the next trip? Will make sure paj is legal and ready for next time.
    1 point
  25. And painted. Replacing that oil seal so left it in.
    1 point
  26. steel? weld it. i suppose you could fill with jb weld or similar
    1 point
  27. Yeah you sum it up perfectly @MopedNZ I dont wanna ruin the good thing we have going with small bikes running tuned up "50cc" engines by being too pesty at a time when less pest is best
    1 point
  28. Fwiw I have a 1uz with M112 on top, have a custom bronze/copper radiator 650w X 60d X 450h -a single 400 dia fan pulling air when needed. It sits around a 1/3 on the gauge while moving however even idling at the lights takes it quite quickly past the 3/4 mark to just below panic stations - start any sort of forward movement and itis back into "normal" mode. Motor has about 100k on it, 20k with the blower and has done the heat up while idling from day one - the motor it replaced had around 40 k with the blower on top (120 all up) and did not do this - have never got to the bottom of why. I have had the motor in and out a few times due to foolishness and have never had an airlock in the cooling system. Have driven around with blower disconnected after I left the accessories belt behind and it did the same thing. Have replaced the water pump - no difference. I just try not to look at the gauge while stuck in traffic now...
    1 point
  29. Expensive coilover shocks going in so he doesn't want to modify them. (Running the shock and spring seperately though.)
    1 point
  30. Suzi 250 project ready for rego inspection, fitted some lower bars which I'm thinking about flipping and going lower. The new muffler was a little noisy so added a baffle and some steel wool to shut her up a little. Second hand fenders and paint, exhaust wrap, new seat some electrical tinkering, oil, filters and new plug, she's a goer!
    1 point
  31. Awesome, gunna go grab a bag of coal for the hut, maybe a box of beer is in order too
    1 point
  32. Dunno how I missed this thread for so long. This is exactly what my next project is going to be: an adaptable self-contained camping trailer. No loo though in my plans. Something like this: This above pic shows it half erect; the roof keeps folding to provide a sleeping surface. And a bit like this: I'll be basing it on the trailer I built a couple of years ago: My version's going to be different from the concepts above though. My idea is the roof folds over, opening the already attached tent and form the sleeping platform to the side, but the trailer is open underneath the tent. The idea is you can stand up in the trailer, out of the weather and the climb up a bit onto the platform for sleeping. This is a very rough concept: It'll be a little 'home away from home' but incorporate: - Solar panels charging a 12v battery system, including lights - Built-in air compressor for the inflatable mattress and MTB tyres - Pseudo-plumbed* in LPG for cooking with a fold-out cooker, both under the sleeping platform and inside The bit below the sleeping platform but above the trailer itself will have canvas sides (one bit bit that wraps around) so the entire thing is weathertight both for travelling and camping. My overall plan is to have the top half as a demountable unit that I can partially disassemble for storage for most of the year, leaving my trailer for general use and MTB shuttling missions, but a super convenient camping trailer for a couple of weeks of the year. The sleeping platform is likely to be aluminium to make flipping it over easier. The rest will be RHS steel. Fold out awnings for shade and storing bikes etc under when camping. Ideally, it wont look like much when travelling (It's not a big trailer), but once on site, a couple of minutes and she's good to go, with no need to climb outside and into the tent. This is my problem with pretty much the style of all camping trailers including teardrops - you struggle to shelter if the weather's inclement, but my version provides standing room. It's cosy but there's room for a couple of people to move around, cook, storage etc. My wife's a crafty type and awesome at sewing so she can make the tent unit including a fly for rain and warmth. BTW, the top camping trailer is AUS$32,000. It does have some techy features (built in solar with charge controller) so as usual I though "Bugger that; I'll make one" * I don't want to have to get an electrical or gas certificate, so the LPG won't be permanently mounted.
    1 point
  33. The brakes were pretty mushy, so olm8 @JustHarry threw some new brake soft lines at it so the pedal had less sponge. The old girl was started and given a run but she was a bit asthmatic and had a case of the misses. A trip to Christchurch was needed to suss it out, so luggage was packed. Obviously there was a list of stuff to do to get things ready for a warrant but they were all abandoned when Harry saw the Weber 28-36 and intake manifold. We whipped the old off, modified the exhaust manifold due to the open top into the old intake (bit of flat plate robbed off another project) modified the linkages, fuel lines and slammed it on. At the same time I threw a new set of plugs, points, leads and rotor at it, and we sourced another 12v coil from an abandoned Toyota. Performance is now tortise-like instead of slug-like. The carb is running too lean so I assume some bigger jets will need to be sourced. It does blow big flames out the top though. The gearbox is round the wrong way. 1st / 2nd is where 3rd / 4th should be. I assume it's been a column change gearbox with a floor change selector fitted. Also likes to jump out of 4th gear, but a bungee cord should fix that. Next I removed 30+ meters of unwanted and additional Barry wiring, some projector spotlights and we managed to get all of the electrical stuff working. Need to find a indicator switch, or at the very least a two way switch for indicator function. This one is goosed. Also need to remove the Barry indicators off the bumper and re-wire the indicators into the park lights like factory next time I'm down. Note Barry indicators, and a bumper off something - not this car. Things I need to find: Rear Latch mechanism for the tailgate top part / and bottom part You can see where there has been a random door latch to hold it down in the past. Think we can do better. Couple of bits of trim and at some point a passenger door as it looks a bit sus. New windscreen seal for winter. If anyone has some parts or knows of a wreck hit me up. Pretty sure I have forgotten most of what I need. Also there will be a bit of rust work on the RHS sill that Harry is keen to take on and a misc list of other stuff before she's ready to be inspected. I've also been talked into installing some slam and Tridens or similar. A chair bowl to @JustHarry @Carsnz123 @- i5oogt - @76rolla_gurl
    1 point
  34. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird - Removing the rusty right side floorpan and inspection. Finished the left side of car and I'm now just starting the right side. Recording and assessing the before state of the right floorpan and adjoining structure. That big hole on the middle lower right next to the tunnel is where an aftermarket seat belt was bolted directly to the then thin sheet floor by a previous owner back in the sixties. Sketchy. No secondary doubler plate, exhaust seal or anything. Local floor thickness remaining was nothing. Potential belt tensile restraint strength was zero. Plan is to salvage and repair the seat support bracket. The bottom flange is rusted out and the rest is not too bad. Measuring up the rotted toeboard before cutting the floorpan out. Plan is to cut the toeboard out later along the tape line. Cut the floorpan out. Survey of the underfloor brackets. Looking forward. Looking aft. Frame is not rusted, just dirty. Front A-post and body mount bracket. Rotted. It will be replaced. No. 2 (moving aft) bracket. It is twisted a bit due to some sort of abuse impact, and salvageable, but will be replaced since I've already made a new one. Side of body and jack lift point bracket. Rotted out on bottom. It will be replaced. B-post and body mount bracket. It might be salvageable. Floorpan, side of rear seat pan. Rotted. It will be replaced. Already have a new one made. Lower edge of rear seat pan vertical structure will be patch repaired. The remains of the removed right floorpan. Rust attacked it from the top down. Bottom view of same. An asphalt base underseal coating was applied against the otherwise bare sheet metal by the Nissan factory. This coating was relatively effective, it just didn't help the top side much. The only salvageable parts (so far). And the work continues... Plan is to go around counterclockwise and repair the perimeter structure starting with the toeboard before launching into making a new floorpan. Masking paper on the left side is to keep the cutting and grinding particles off. I'm also going to cover that completely with a protective welding blanket. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
  35. So, i was wrong.. it wasn't the intake that was restricting it on high boost. Still starts to brick wall around 200kw Red line is the new setup, Blue dual setup Not following what it does on low boost: Decided to test the pressure drop across the crappy china intercooler. I'm not fancy enough to have 2 map sensors. so these are back to back runs. Red run is measured pre intercooler. Blue post 1.5psi maybe doesn't sound so bad if were running 30psi. but at this boost, its 10% pressure loss. The way it gets worse as power and rpm increase suggests its junk also. was almost at the top of my list to replace anyway
    1 point
  36. Ok Just finished putting on the snuffleupagus. looking good so far! red is the dual plenum. blue new runs from all the other testing i done up there ^ somewhere blue: new plenum with correct runner length. green: weld elbows with dual plenum red : long ali bends with dual plenum pink: dual plenum bolted straight to throttles New setup wins everywhere. when back on the normal 13psi should get interesting
    1 point
  37. Getting really into making these gear knobs. Few more I've finished recently.
    1 point
  38. Knocked up a knock box for coffee grounds Scraps of steel pipe, plywood, leather and washing line
    1 point
  39. Okay, it's no secret I'm into some pretty niche things. Gopeds, drift trikes, lowrider bikes, skateboarding, gokarts, tallbikes, etc...etc... none of them are popular in NZ by any stretch of the imagination. Now this is about as niche as it gets. 39cc of polini awesomeness! It puts out 6.5hp and sounds like an angry beehive!!! Pops wheelies when the powerband kicks in...its mental. I picked it up a few years ago, with the goal of cutting it up and putting the motor on a goped. As it turns out, its basically the grandfather to the pocket bike craze and is highly collectible in Europe, some selling for over €2500. So needless to say, I won't be cutting it up anytime soon. The clutch fucked out, so I brought this "high performance" clutch. Well if the goal is to add excess weight to the rotating assembly, shift the engagement rpm down low where it's not making power and decrease speed, fun, your will to live as much as possible...then yes, this clutch excels in all those areas. I had other goals, like simply returning it to being awesome like it once was. So, I brought a Chinese clutch for a 49cc kids motorbike, that didn't fit either, then modified it to fit the polini by adapting the new clutch arms to fit the polini hub center. I cut the arms down in the lathe, to fit the polini bolts. Drilling to lighten the arms, this raises engagement rpm. Shortening the springs to put more tension on the arms, this further raises the rpm. Drilling the arm spring pockets to remove the shit casting marks to allow smoother operation, and allow the much fatter polini springs to fit. Back in and running like a dream! I know its ridiculous...I know. However its definitely one of those things that fits the saying "don't knock it until you try it". Not in the way someone may say having sex with men feels awesome "don't knock it until you try it"... no, nothing like that. This is more in the have you ever driven a rotary category... it's only purpose is to make you smile.
    1 point
  40. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Painting the underside and finally welding it into the car - Part two and last of the pics. Continued from previous post in the thread. Underside photos and a few more. Support bracket flange weld attachments to inner sill. Floorpan lap weld to prior toe-board patch. The far upper toe-board welds were from a couple of years ago and made a little too cold and random. I run the welder hotter now to get more melt thru and flatter welds. Sometimes though too much as in the extreme right weld melt thru. From previous post, the ideal weld melt thru I try to get. A nice shallow convex button of material. The outer sill will be welded onto the car next once I get all the hidden inside surfaces of both inner and outer coated with an epoxy prime. Should be a relatively easy task with no crawling back and forth under the car with my 60 plus year body. Too cold today though, freezing temps are prevailing. More topside pics of the completed work. Weld heads ground near flush for a clean look topside. Minutia. The black vinyl shown covering the door cards is not original. Probably from a late 60's redo. The original red and burgandy material remains underneath. The arm rest was salvaged from an ivory white parts car in mid 70's and sprayed black. Bezels for door handle and window cranks also salvaged from same PL311 parts car. Originals, PL310, were about same color as steering wheel, dark brownish gray. More of same. Again. Complicated and cramped location to access with welder. It was a little bit easier to get at this area. The structural welds to the A post body mount bracket will be left as is for best strength. The Hi/Lo headlight foot switch support bracket was salvaged and re-attached, but I had to replace the bottom flange due to rust thin-out. Yeah, so that's about it for now. Time to take a break, organize small tools and heal up from the under-car torture routine. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/ Build: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60264-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
  41. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Tunnel trim completed and floorpan edge conforms nicely! Trimmed and fitted. Trim was three steps. First a rough cut with an angle grinder cutting disk to within 1/4 inch of the scribe line, then manual cut with tin snips the rest of the way, finishing with hand filing to clean and de-burr the edges. It's very tempting to just start welding it now. Just need to paint the underside and weld it in - finally! Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
  42. I'm trying to speed this project up a little bit. It's been over two years now since I began tearing into the Bluebird. The final fit check of the left floor, with it screwed down flush against the tunnel. Various inspections and fit adjustments are completed. I did some recruitment. The Apprentice. My son volunteered to help. Cleaning up my overly thick MIG welds on the tunnel. Preparing to paint a trim line on the tunnel. Painted and edge scribed with blue layout fluid. Tunnel is now ready to trim. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
  43. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Welding up the pie cuts along the floorpan edges. Making reproduction nutplates. More fit checks. Getting closer to completion. Some little things. I used Teks and temp fastened the underside support to conform the floor shape more accurately. And backing up a little bit from the thread post where I fully trimmed the flanges, I needed to first weld up some gaps. There's seven bends in contour along the fore and aft direction. That results in 14 pie cuts along the edges to be cleaned up and welded. Not so much on the outboard flange against the sill since these will be lap joints against a flat inner sill, but required along the curves of the trans tunnel edges. I'm keeping my options open to butt weld or lap weld against the tunnel. I back up the wide pie cut openings with copper from a split and flattened pipe. The blue line marks the extent that needs to be filled, the remainder I expect will be trimmed away. This one was kinda ugly. I just grind the excess away later. This one was a little easier to fill. I ground the welds and then, after final trimming (described earlier), did yet another mock fit with the floorpan below The fit is looking awesome! Almost pro maybe, but I have nothing from the internet to compare it to. Then I built some tiny reproductions out of 20 gauge sheet to look exactly the same as the original floating nut plates that get welded to the underfloor and support the inboard bracket of the parking brake. The 5/16 - 24 square nuts are extracted from some much larger purchased repo GM nut plates and inserted into my much smaller Nissan look alike single tab repros. Next post will be cleaning, preparation and epoxy priming the soon to be permanently welded closed cavities on the underside of the floorpan. And then followed by welding on ten or so parts. More posts soon… Discussion:
    1 point
  44. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Trimming the perimeter. Started off by taping together a big piece of cardboard. Then carefully trimmed it to fit between the inner sill, toe board, tunnel and rear seat box. Added extra margin with heavy paper to the edge. This was laid into the floorpan. Then I pie cut and panel beat the mating trans/drive tunnel edges to merge in accordance with the cardboard/paper template. The other edges were bent similar but with less beating since no blend radii were required. The result. First of dozens of fit checks in car. It looks not too bad for a start. It's a lot better than the rusted out floor that was there. Visible progress finally! I left it this way for a long while since the excess material made it a bit easier to grasp the floorpan by the edges and pull it out after each fit check. Much later, after doing several other feature additions, bend/panel beat tweaks, and satisfied the trim edge plans were stable and would work, I taped and trimmed all the finalized edges, then applied an angle grinder cut-off wheel and tin snips. Trimmed. Next up is duplicating factory body mount indentations and other stiffening features. Still lots more to catch up on. Might take me the rest of the day to upload it all. More posts soon… Discussion:
    1 point
  45. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - 3D shape cutouts and weld in. So I first attempted to make a male and female die set to do the necessary metal forming but quickly discovered this would not work for me. The force required to squash the metal together goes up exponentially with the formed area size. Since I don't have access to giant presses I chose to cut and weld the shapes into the new floorpan. Started with a sketch from the remains of the existing floorpan. Made a strategic cut, flatted corrugations, made some bends and welded the loose end. 3D area is welded closed with two conical shapes and a rectangle patch. Same treatment was applied to the 3D parking brake lever ramp area. Then started cutting, tack welding and flattening the corrugations where needed. Next up is rough trimming the perimeter. More posts soon... Discussion:
    1 point
  46. Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Details. I have a large number of photos and so I'll split this update into several posts to minimize any load delay. Picking up the story from mid-August 2019, beginning with making underfloor bracket replacements. The first of two bracket replacements, all the others were salvaged from the existing floor. This first bracket is simple, but I had destroyed the original by cutting off the flange that attaches it to the inner sill. I just sketched up the right side bracket while laying under the car. Left floor bracket has the flanges bent in the opposite direction from the sketch. The second bracket that needed replacing. The underfloor support, inner attach for the lift jack pipe and parking brake lever attachment. It appears to have been destroyed by road debris that was run over by a previous owner. My guess is piece of rebar hit at 60 mph by the front tire that was kicked up and pierced the underside. The damage included a hole in the floor and a severely bent steel shaft for the parking brake. I split it in half for measurements since that's that way I'll make a replacement and then weld it into one. It includes minor complications to be duplicated such as the gusset bumps and welded on 5/16 - 24 fine thread square nuts (which are hard to find in 24 pitch thread btw). Made the halves out of 1.5 mil. Initial checks against the inner sill. Making parts and finishing up the welds. Then I welded on the square nuts, fuel line clip and forged the four gussets into the corners with 3/8 inch rod, some heat from a MAP torch, and backed up with angle iron. The hole in the middle is where it will get pinned to the lift jack pipe. Nissan had brazed the original attachment to the pipe sides but that's not practical for me since I'm welding this to the floor first and attaching to the pipe last. The heavy oxidation was later cleaned off with a soaking in muriatic (hydrochloric) acid. Additional posts soon... Discussion:
    1 point
  47. Back to work on reproducing the '61 310 Bluebird left side floor pan. First, I drilled out the spot welds to all the bits I wanted off the original floor. Top side Bottom side My collection of saved and de-rusted parts; including the seat bracket, longitudinal stiffener structure, hand brake reveal, B-pillar body mount bracket, and a couple of other brackets that are too far gone but get in the way. Bought some more steel sheet. Four foot by eight. I cut out a 26 by 56 inch blank and made some corrugated steel with a bead roller Scraped most of the under seal off the old floor pan bottom surface, did some measurements and began duplicating what was left. The bottom surface was more useful for measuring since it was much less rusty than topside. I'm leaving an extra inch or more all around to accommodate fit and trim later. Side-by-side compare Now I have to figure out a way to form some of the 3D shapes around the where the B-pillar body mount goes and the shallow depression under the hand brake lever. Hammer form over a wooden buck? Or form separate parts, cut the floor and weld in? Still have lots of work to do. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
    1 point
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