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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/08/20 in all areas

  1. Motor is back together with ARP head studs and vvti 1uz multi layer steel gaskets. So it's better than it was before. It's ready to go back in which may happen tomorrow.
    29 points
  2. Managed to buy an original set of pistons and rods on ebay. Look in perfectly good condition to me! Good enough to use to get things going. Theyve been machined out for shell bearings already.
    15 points
  3. Ok Just finished putting on the snuffleupagus. looking good so far! red is the dual plenum. blue new runs from all the other testing i done up there ^ somewhere blue: new plenum with correct runner length. green: weld elbows with dual plenum red : long ali bends with dual plenum pink: dual plenum bolted straight to throttles New setup wins everywhere. when back on the normal 13psi should get interesting
    12 points
  4. So started by cutting up a few 90degree bends. Then started to try replicate the orginal exhaust so the new exhaust will run in a similar path. Was intending on making some headers. But just decided to clean up the old factory headers for now. Coat of exhaust paint. Finished
    10 points
  5. Hj60 landcruiser radiator was the biggest size I could find to fit in the gap available, fits not bad just need to move or put an angled lower outlet on the bottom tank so it clears the exhaust
    10 points
  6. Right so 2 years later. Thanks to me fucking my back for an entire year and many hassles with the cunts at the council it's taken this long to build a fence and finish the front of the house. But now that's underway. Nothing fancy, just timber boarding type deal. There will be a retractable gate and a carport to come too.
    9 points
  7. currently still own this and its still not going... took it to kumeu last year running on 7 cylinders so after that i pulled it apart more. pulled the inlet manifold off as it was bent and had that machined and checked the lifters to find out of the 3 i checked were worn out or broken a spring inside. so motor out this is the second time now And took it to work and stripped it down And in the strip down process i found one of the headgaskets had been placed on the wrong way causing no water flow on one of the cylinder heads. if the gasket says front i don't know how much clearer the gasket manufacturer could of been. placed the block in the hot tank to give it a good clean out and gave the heads a strip down too then they were also placed in the hot tank too to which the block was placed in the tank for the 2nd time due to rust in the water galleries. once it came out i bead blasted the water galleries and the outside. then i dug some more of the stuck crap in the water gallieries by stabbing it with a screwdriver. and then went round the block with a finger file and die grinder to tidy up the block casting this did somewhat get abit over the top too. and die grinded the oil pick up mick bigger as are small from factory. then hot tanked the block again. And this is where the can of worms started
    8 points
  8. Id like to hear the story about the ham fisted wiring damaging wanker
    6 points
  9. Not much has happened since last post. Have just been checking over bits and pieces and discovering more that needs doing or corners that have been cut, making things more difficult but that's ok. Currently working out a plan on how to move things forward with the build, with the budget that I have as I need it ready for my wedding at the end of the year as I got engaged a few months ago, I want to be able to drive the groomsmen in and drop some skids haha. Anyway I've recently sold the Recaro that I brought last year, and also selling the other ones if anyone is interested (will do a good deal for OS). In reality the seats are still to wide, there will be clearance issues with the tunnel and also the seat belt mount so really I can only get away with 500-510 width max but I think I may have found something that suits. Also I've been on standby for a space to free up at Choppers Auto body shop for the last 3 months and finally he's given me the thumbs up to bring it in next week. The exhaust will be getting done, and a few other fabrication jobs depending on what I can afford so that's pretty exciting. He will also be getting compliance on board to go over the vehicle and point us in the right direction of getting it road worthy. Here's a shameless instagram pic, I spent a few minutes putting the bonnet back on so at least it's got some cover on the transporter. Tai.
    6 points
  10. It's been some time since I've been in possession of an Oldschool vehicle, but I thought I'd post a thread covering my Alfa Romeo 156. My Non Japanese, Non Wagon, Non Oldschool "Race" Car. I'm hoping to keep a record of this beast, and gather advice / inspiration from the oldschool.co.nz population as I see some really good tips and ideas coming through for others on their build threads. Brief History. The car was a standard road registered 2.0 Litre Twin Spark with the Infamous Selespeed Transmission. (Manual Gearbox with an Electro-Hydraulic "Robot", e.g Semi Automatic Gearbox). Just like most European cars it was poorly maintained and arrived at my then work with a rod hanging out the side of the block, the customer was uninterested and sold it as a parts car to the workshop. Around this time, I was going through some big personal life events, just out of my apprenticeship and I was broke as hell and had an unexpected son not far away. The workshop was doing quite alot of Motorsport orientated Fabrication and Mechanical work, as well as being the NZ OMP Distributors at the time, the plan was to convert this 156 into a Clubsport orientated car that was effectively used to show customers what we can do. They could try out seats, harnesses and steering wheels and we could gauge a persons requirements size wise prior to commencing a build on their car. So I foolishly offered to build the Rollcage Nights and Weekends as I wanted to learn to do this work for myself, I also had a serious itch for projects and this way I didn't have to fund the progress. Anyway from memory it took about a year or so to get the initial build completed. XYZ Adjustable Suspension. Rollcage with Incorporated Tube Seat Mounts. Converted the car to Conventional Manual and Rewired the Car to operate purely on the original Engine ECU sans Selespeed ECU whilst retaining Fly by Wire, No easy feat considering I couldn't find anyone else who had ever done it but alas like all these things the solution was quite simple in the end. Other than that the car was pretty much standard other than OMP Front Brake Pads and Motul Brake Fluid. It was at this point that my boss said to me, that since I built the damn thing, I better be the one to go race it. So basically for the next few years I taught myself how to drive(if you could call it that), competing in local hillclimbs, Dual Sprints, Clubmans Grid Racing, Producation Race Series, slowly developing the car into what it is now. Luckily for me, my boss basically came to me, indicating that over the length of time I had been running and modifying the car, he felt that the car was more mine than his and sold it to me for a price that I most certainly couldn't refuse. At this point I went a bit batshit, and the last big transformation took place. Unfortunately the car has barely been used for the last 2 years and has been living with 10-5, gathering dust mostly, I even attempted to sell it, the market then proceeded to let me know that no-one actually wanted the car and that it was effectively valueless to anyone but me. So now I have moved to Blenheim and for the 1st time in my life have my own garage at my own house. I will proceed to spend even more money on NZ's most useless 156. Sorry, that almost bored me to death, so I can't imagine how you feel, so here's the photo's of me trying to sell her.
    5 points
  11. With the gearbox up in its final position I took another look at where the gear selector levers will sit. Looks like I might be able to poke the upper lever through the chassis rail if I elongate the existing cut out further towards the front of the van. The lower lever should clear the bottom of the chassis rail if I massage it slightly. So at this stage there don't seem to be any gearbox related show stoppers.
    5 points
  12. My focus then moved to the front setup. I lifted the L300 front beam into position and the first bit of good news is that the beam works perfectly with the standard back bowl sump on the 4Y. The second bit of good news is that the standard 4Y engine mounts are about 60 mm rear of the L300 beam, so I should be able to fabricate some mounts that will allow me to mount them onto the L300 beam. The beam is pretty meaty, but I'll put extra plates across the top just for peace of mind. This means that I will be able to replicate the setup that I had in the Bedford where I could drop the front end, engine and gearbox as a combined unit for maintenance purposes. I'm currently using a 10 mm spacer between the top of the beam and the bottom of the sump to simulate the gap. I know it doesn't sound like much, but I have one major challenge that I will reveal shortly that is forcing me to get the engine as low as possible. Picture from front with spacer currently in place. Thanks for reading
    4 points
  13. I bought this '74 c50 in September last year. NZ new, originally from Honda Hamilton. Bought unseen as I was in the UK for my Nana's funeral, we called her 'Mud', hence the name. It was registered and it ran, the seller kindly rode it to a mate's place and he trailered it to mine. Looked as good a place as any for a Summer project when I got back. One of the first things to do was replaced this taped on taillight lens with one from @JimF
    3 points
  14. Slow and low was the tempo I had in mind for this. It came with a hardtail setup at stock height. I met up with @Shakotom to chop up the rear shocks I had. Tom's 'Garden Cub' was the initial inspiration for this build so it was rad to have a yarn with the lad behind it. Rear wheel tucked up nicely under the thinned out under the 'sliced-with-a-bread-knife' seat.
    3 points
  15. It does seem that way. The first step is to run some injector cleaner through the system, and change the fuel filter. You might find if you haven't done this in the while it clears up a bit anyway. If it doesn't, you will need to start delving deeper (as long as you know its fuel related, and aren't heading into a world of pain for nothing if its ignition or intake/vacuum leak related instead). You should also do your valve clearances if you haven't recently. After going through the pain of making the non-functioning KJet in my TVR (which will be exactly the same as in your Sierra as its the same engine) work again, i made a series of guides to help anyone else through the testing, diagnosing, troubleshooting and configuring of the system. Part 1, The Basics Part 2, Testing Part 3, Tuning and Fixing Hopefully that helps you get it sorted. Happy to help if you have further questions.
    3 points
  16. update torn old engine down.. liners had shifted in block . managed to get another motor for free from another imp owner also scored some stromberg cd125s twin carbs on a superspeed by griffiths intake manifold and a new stainless steel exhaust manifold is on its way too from aussy first drive wasn't good found temp gauge doesn't work and fuel gauge so pulled that out and sent it away to get reconditioned with new temp sensor to suit Im having its backfiring through the carbs unsure what the issue is at this stage tried two different lift pumps on her ,two dizzys,stock solex carb then the twin carbs, compressed tested okay anyone got any suggestions
    3 points
  17. Good thoughts fellas. I remember those right angled adapters for putting a side draft in place of a Weber downdraft. Looked like this. An SU could be an option. Thanks for sharing.
    3 points
  18. Not 100% sure I'll come. I've been trying to get in this girls pants for a while, and I'm nearly there.
    3 points
  19. Thanks @Lord Gruntfuttock for the good advice. I kind of knew that I was pushing the limits with those short leads. I cut them down in stages trying to make them as short as possible...but was probably asking for trouble down the track going that short. And tadah! So I made some new ones out of my old impala HT leads. Thanks Mike, for leaving them with me after generously giving me a new set of leads a while ago... kind of cool these leads are now living a new recycled life on a harley...
    3 points
  20. well thats both tubs all done now and what i thought would be a major ticked off the list. and also under the advise from the oldschool GC brain trust...i finally got around to adding 2 small mounts to the rear of the gearbox mount for support.
    3 points
  21. 2 points
  22. a nicely carved stick would also look good good enough for the aero industry
    2 points
  23. can you fit a 2nd 'fuel cap' but have this be a fuel gauge? you can get 100% mechanical float gauges that bolt to the top of a tank. it would also add a degree of symmetry to the tank if done well. which we all know you can handle
    2 points
  24. Okay, so what is the issue I hear you ask : Well you may recall me mentioning in a previous post that the 4Y was around 5 mm wider at its widest point than the original Thames donk. However, being the genius that I am, I failed to notice that the widest point on the 4Y would include the position of the carbie and ....... yes you guessed it ..... the carbie will sit above the removable lip on the engine box ... DOH. Now I know why those that have fitted standard Consul inlet manifolds to the Thames engine have had to moved the passenger seat so that it pushes up against the B post. The issue doesn't look that bad in this pic as I don't have a carbie fitted to the mock up, but a quick measure of the carbie and air cleaner elbow on my complete HiAce indicates I need around 170 mm and I only have 100 mm as things currently stand. Pics show things with the box lip removed.
    2 points
  25. We now move on to the biggest hurdle that I have encountered in the mock up phase so far. Firstly a bit of background: The engine box has a removable lip on either side in order to provide greater access for maintenance purposes. So before tackling any major engine work the process is to slide both seats forward on their runners and take them out. Then out come the removable box sides and you have an extra 80 mm of working space on either side of the engine. Pics of the removable sides in position and removed below, just to give some context. (note the strip of gaffer tape to cover the greased up seat slides as I kept leaning in the muck LOL)
    2 points
  26. That’s good because I had to chop the seat into 3 to get it out then cut the rails off as they seem to be rivited to the floor
    2 points
  27. Short answer is yes, totally legal (will need cert obviously). And thanks, admittedly its dragging on a bit - progress wise. But it's a weird project in the fact I really don't need this bike, so I'm taking my time and enjoying the journey. I've always wanted to build one since seeing one in an easy rider magazine about 30 years ago... to be fair I was more into the naked girls within the covers of those magazines (pre internet days), however a rigid chopper caught me eye and I was in love! The single most important thing is the straight line from the bikes neck right back to the rear axle, this to me was what caught my eye all those years ago and makes these bikes what they are. The secondary things I like are the proportions. By playing with the amount of stretch in the frame, the amount of lift in the frame, the length of the forks, the gaps between seat, tank and neck, the size of the tank, the amount of rear fender you choose to keep...all those things drastically change the look. This is my all time favorite bike. The builder (Superco Custom, Trevelen Rabanal) pushes the proportions to the edge, but in my opinion has built a masterpiece. I've taken a lot of inspiration from this bike...but still trying to achieve my own vision too.
    2 points
  28. https://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/tools/hand-tools/other/listing-2558169722.htm?rsqid=069bf2fecc6f488fa12d1a5ec82cdd9b-023 coil winding machine possible barry thread, but someone seems to need one every so often
    2 points
  29. More inspiration shots: Things are falling into place. The progress is slow...but at least shits gettin done.
    2 points
  30. The cars finally starting to take shape and finishing up last bits of fab work. will start on the driveshaft loop and the seat mounts in the floor.
    2 points
  31. I'm really digging the wheel size/ tyre size and ride height. Unfortunately itll get lifted for a wof but itll soon be low again. Satisfaction levels are high
    2 points
  32. Before I started on the Cub, I designed this logo for the local crew and from there and @MopedNZ I've met some proper GC's up and down New Zealand so big up yourselves!
    1 point
  33. Just doing a bit of Google research on tank sight tubes that don't suck. Yeah, yeah..."blue and green should never be seen" (together). But both these bikes pull off a sight tube that looks okay. Still not ruling it out...
    1 point
  34. Yes, I think they are an inch too short. Oh well...guess I'm going to get lots of practice making leads eh...
    1 point
  35. Man that's a sweet car! Got a real soft spot for galaxies
    1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. If you're handy to the waikato you're welcome to use my mini lathe if you don't have access to one already.
    1 point
  38. Havnt been thinking too much about this car recently but even with family and shit getting in the way I'm still adamant im not going to get rid of her. The other day I had seen on trade me another 4g52, the first one I had seen for sale in months and was actually on the right island. I happened to have some spare money at the time so purchased it. All that was claimed in the listing was that it had sat for over 20yrs but still turned over. That was good enough for me. In any case it's a dam sight better than my last one and will be a much better candidate for a rebuild. Nothing will probably happen with this straight away but I'll start collecting parts and making a plan of attack. Cheers.
    1 point
  39. The swapmeet was a success in that I ended up with $500 burning a hole in my pocket. This was more about the quantity of shit moved, rather than selling things for what they are actually worth, but the result was what I wanted. So I went and bought some bends. When the manifold came apart it was clearly leaking in a couple of places, so this is a good time to rectify things. First i bolted the flanges on to see if all was orderly in that department, which it was. 1.75" primaries I ended up making a mandrel to smash into the end of the tubes to get the shape more or less in the right squish to fit in the flange Then pointed them to the correct turbo inlet and tacked into the flange; Then the other 3; Then weld the inside of the hole. I left 5mm of space for the weld to go Then used a die grinder to clean things up all nice and purty I cut up the wee adaptor plate that was part of the previous install to give me a turbo inlet with pre made 2" pipe inlets. It already had the EGT Sensor fitting and pre squished pipe. This got held in place with a welded bar while everything was in place on the engine. I then bolted it all onto my spare head for checksies and to keep the flanges flat. This shit just got fudged till it worked Then much weldy weldy and some cleanup of the biggest dags. Then I bolted it on after applying a bit of VHT to hide much uglyness. Hopefully sorted and when I test it there will be a few less squealy/ticking/chugging noises. I call the design a 'hybrid log'. The theory behind it is to direct as much of the exhaust as possible into the turbo without any consideration for pulse sequencing, equal length runners and/or scavenging etc at all. I count the result as an almost perfect success in this respect.
    1 point
  40. First part of the exhaust done. Now have to figure out what to do with the wastegate pipe Easiest would be plumb it straight into the pipe behind the turbo. When I did the last one I made a mistake blending it into the pipe at too shallow of an angle and it was very difficult to weld. It never cracked and it never had a flex joint between the gate and pipe...but it had a heap of weld in it Input on whether a flex joint is required would be appreciated if you have done it before Other option is run a separate pipe to down by the trans then into the main pipe but I'm a bit short of room
    1 point
  41. It could be working, it could not be. Best way to check is to monitor the charge light and see if it goes on and off etc, or if it stays off. Though, you have a BMS with a separate port for charging right? and it charges when you first plug it in right? In which case the BMS should be working fine. Thje charge port isnt connected to the battery pack unless the BMS connects it, so if it charges, the BMS should be working... What BMS did you get? Because the one i found that looks like the one you have doesnt actually have a balance feature, so might be worth checking if your has it or not. Initial charge is a cunt, especially with mismatched cells, as i assume you didnt check capacity or internal resistance of each cell before building a pack right? If you have access to a lab power supply, just charge each bank individually by setting the power supply to 4.2V with a 1A current limit or something like that, and let them all charge individually and 'top balance' the pack that way. Once they are all charged and balanced, they should be fine. Or If you're worried, get a Daly BMS. They have fantastic reviews and have a balance feature. You can also get one of these: active balancers which will start transferring charge between neighbouring cells if the difference is more than 0.1V, which might be nice to have. Plenty of reviews online that say they dont work, but plenty that say they do. I have 2 at home, and both work flawlessly.
    1 point
  42. What about having the filler on the engine, was factory in several vans and there's an off the shelf part for it. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kilkenny-Thermostat-Housing-Suits-Toyota-Tarago-YR31-YR22-4Y-WO427-/122775785834
    1 point
  43. stainless benchtop. 6mm 316 plate with an upturn at the back. the splash back is textured stainless and it laps over the upturn on the back of the bench top. 2018-04-14_10-15-10 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-04-14_10-15-01 by sheepers, on Flickr i made a stainless angle thing to finish between the bench and the cupboard wall. 2018-04-14_10-14-02 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  44. Pretty wet and miserable today, car made it though.
    1 point
  45. So after flushing the cooling system and placing it back into the shed i set about fixing the R/R door not opening or the window rolling down. for some reason the door card was rubbing on the body of the car so i suspect its too big and needs trimming. so i pry'd the door card off to one side to get the door open. then removed the door card also did remove the window and its tracks. but man that glass is thick! The two guides were also seized so free them up and applied rubber grease on them. And as you can see that the Arizona dust has settle itself on the tracks. so spend some time with a wire brush and cleaned it all off. then applied Rubber grease on all the tracks. reinstalled and now rolls up and down fairly smoothly. but now just need to get an imperial tap and die and clean up the thread on the limit stop and trim some of the door card off so while its on the door can open and close. also gave the fuel flap some alignment. bolts weren't even tight just need to buy some rubber bump stops for the flap now but will get that some other time after compliance.
    1 point
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