Leaderboard

Got the steering box and Mk5 column fitted in. Just needs the clamps welding to the column, and steering box mount welding to the inner wheelarch.I will fit a Mk1 bulkhead grommet to the lower end of the column to seal it at the bulkhead. I am going to use a VDO/Merc A class electro hydraulic pump to power this PS box, and this will be mounted just above the steering box. Engine is back together. I have installed a new Edelbrock cam and lifters,double row timing chain, and Edelbrock performer inlet manifold and carb to replace the standard 2 barrel carb and inlet manifold, and standard cam. I have a set of Hedman headers which I will also fit.Fortunately the engine had just been reconditioned before I bought the van, so still looks new inside!I deleted the engine driven power steering pump, which required a different crank and water pump pulley, and this has tidied up the front of the engine somewhat. https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45289-browndogs-1972-v8-transit/page/4/

To do list: Radiator hoses 34mm 16571-70040 top 16572-70040 bottom ordered Igniter wiring Install water bypass/ lower outlet Clutch slave install and bleed Bleed brakes Wheel alignment -1.5° camber max 4mm vacuum hose 1m intake to charcoal canister. A few things will be revisited once going/legal. The block I used had been sitting for about 15 years so had quite bad corrosion in water galleries which even after being acid dipped and blown out is still present. For this reason I've chosen not to rebuild radiator untill ivd run it hot and flushed it as many times as possible. You'll also see a horrid top radiator hose made from two with a shoddy joiner. This came in parts bin with one of the three engines I had and after trying about 10 places to match one up I'm not suprised. Have ordered new genuine top and bottom hoses from a tc24 gx61 via amayama but there is 18 day wait time - if they dont come back as NLA. Getting pretty close to start up!

So a while back I gots ta painting, Then I gots ta putting it back together again. I then gots ta making up new front and side panels for it, out of 2mm alloy sheet, That shit came out OK. But then I had to make a bit to fill in the gap behind the dash (as the frame is now longer, and the steering wheel is mounted above rather than below the steering shaft mount bar thing. Did some CAD. Then made a thing. Then decided I would have a crack at welding it on. I've never TIG'd alloy before, but how hard can it be? All my test runs were lovely, but fuck me wrong with a rubber goose, every time I tried to weld the hood, everything would go wrong. It near on drove me insane, but I got there in the end, kinda. I still need to make the under tray, and weld in something to protect the headers, as they are the lowest point, but its bloody close to done. Me and a couple of mates took it out today, on some fast gravel roads, and scared the bejesus out of ourselves. It really needs front brakes though, because it takes a fucking long time to stop on gravel. Its like trying to stop with only a handbrake. It went really well, apart from one or more of the carbs being a bit of a cock, causing the plenum to fill up with gas and flood the engine. Luckily @keltik had a rag and little girly hands, so kindly mopped up the lake of gas through the intake. It was running really rich, which caused it to have a two-stroke like power-band, which made things even more exciting. But yeh, apart from that and a few very minor issues, it went quite well.

Dragged this outta the weeds where it had been sitting for a couple of years. Cleaned it and chucked some new gas in it and a battery. Started it up no drama and took it for a short run up the road. Had forgotten what a laugh it is to drive. But the tyres had turned to plastic so behaved like a drunken monkey. Got some tyres onto a set of wheels I’d had hanging around for a few years but was too weary of them rubbing to use before, but thought fuck it, they’ll do for a hoon down to Leadfoot in Feb. And they do rub but meh. Then it sprang a leak in the radiator. Bugger. But if that’s the worst thing that happens I’ll call it a win. Got a renewed interest in it so as soon as I get the shed built I’ll rip it to bits and rebuild it to fix all the things I rushed or don’t like about it.

yea ive just been dailying this and going places slowly. its just got its first warrant after compliance which it flew through no drama. now thats done i thought id put on the new big brakes that i bought for it a while back. usual story, LN106 hilux calipers with DBA272 rotors (which the guys at castle hill Auto One in Sydney got made as a small batch because DBA dont make them anymore) and R32 GTR pads. bit of trimming of the backing plate and it all bolts on. these calipers work a million times better with the 1" master cylinder than the factroy two pots do. much better pedal feel and way better progression of the brake pressure. anywho, its all back together and working so now ill spend some time bedding it all in but its already a zillion times better. 2020-01-27_12-25-25 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-27_12-25-36 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-27_12-59-14 by sheepers, on Flickr also these aren't the wheels im keeping on the car. it will in the near future get some jet black steel smoothies with small moon caps so you wont be able to see the red calipers.

got back to work on the ve this week , just doing the rear guard

NZ Classic Car have done an article on the GT in this months edition

I pulled the roof off the BJ tonight - it's farken hot and have no AC obviously. Any reason this isn't legal? It's a factory setup but obviously reduces the integrity of the cabin... Am also wondering about going further, the windscreen folds down and whole midsection of the tub comes off on these trucks, but would then lose the shoulder height seatbelt mounts. Would quite like to build a rollbar outside the cab but closer to the body than the existing one so could pick up some new mounts off that, I assume there are rules about where those would have to be relative to where they are currently? The mounts might work off the position of the current rollbar but would be 20-30cm further back... Cabriolet lyfe

Thought it was time to update this thread. Everything has been sold (except one very long term moped project in boxes) I'm now concentrating on another Gyro. I did a deal with Raizer on my A50 for it. This is how i got it. And this is how it sits, going to the blasters in the morning. Hopefully with only one project i won't get distracted and actually finish it lol.

under side is all done full chassis connectors .

Also the middy has been talking about wanting to upgrade to a bike with gears and bigger wheels etc than her scooters. We'd looked at a couple Cubs, but she's a 2t fan too, talked with @Shakotom about picking her up a project F50 or FR50 from him, but never really got around to that. Then old mate @Tumeke mentioned he had an A50 with A100 forks and wheels etc that he'd fitted a U50 semi auto engine to that'd be for sale soon, showed her a couple pics, she was keen and the deal was done! Picked up the AU-Fiddy over the weekend, rather pleased with it all in all It's a little bit of a project, but that often seems to be the way with AUs Plans are pretty simple at this stage, tyres, seat, lighting and let @Bellicose loose with his spray gun, should be a sweet little town bike for her to get the hang of manual shifting, then one day down the track it'll end up with my 60cc manual clutch engine from the green one.

After a lot of mucking about it was still gutless, figured out shit port timing from the crappy Taiwanese kit is most likely the issue. There may be enough meat in the casting to attempt to improve things, but have decided to go another way... Enter another engine ex Sparkle, it's got a possibly noisy clutch and a slight chance of gear issues, haven't stripped it as yet so fingers crossed it's not that bad. Got a few more genuine parts hoarded in preparation of the build And even more exciting for me is this haul of proven high nang goodness from Jonny's speedshop! Customised cylinder set up with a proper squishband combustion chamber button, modded clutch cover with 19mm Dellorto and a 12v CDI set up Need to port the cases pretty heavily, figure out a much more aggressive pipe, set up a flywheel to suit and a few other things to get max nang!!

hi guys been a while just getting back on to the ve ,did some work on the new gasser and john a panel guy s doing the new rear guards on the top chop

Nothing to lose so had a crack at it, remembered to measure offset beforehand., just with a ruler from a flat surface.. And a combination of heat, penetrant impact gun and force got them moving... Until I broke my favourite old spoke tool, was a bloody good one too... So out with the vice grips for the last few stuck nipples... And success. All spokes out without breakages. Should be able to clean them up and re-use with new nipples on a new 32 hole rim... Pretty pleased with that as I've already bought bearings etc for this hub...

Home made SST to hold crank pulley to torque nut

putting it back together. i put the new center bearing on the driveshaft and put the driveshaft back in. this took most of the day because i had to repair the floor where the handbrake bolts in because all celicas rip the handbrake bolts out of the floor. the actual bolting back in of the driveshaft and the driveshaft loop took about 10 minutes, the rest of the day was doing crown brake upgrades and repairing the floor. 2020-01-27_04-54-18 by sheepers, on Flickr

Rebuilt stock injectors from the States, including all seals. A bargain at $160 to my door. I’ve just about finished sorting out the air filter, then the engine can go back together and we’ll see how it runs.

Something that I've been putting off for a longtime. Not sure why, but I hate making solid round bar into tube...knowing that I could buy it with a hole already in it (but never do, becauseI don't need 6m of random tube lying around afterwards). Anyway: Working out a baseline to start with. Doing the part I didn't want to do. Took less that an hour start to finish...so I'm not sure why my whiney bitch side of my brain took over here? But 4x "tubes" precision engineered to within near perfect digital vernier accuracy of each other. Setting out the sprocket I'm going to use. Blue Mark's new holes on corrected pcd. Test spacer. If you going to make a change...make a big one. Best advice I've ever received in life. By doing big change, you get instant feedback ie. you have a baseline, then make a big change and you now have a range. Now just rationalize it and you're bang on in 3 easy steps. And here it is. Perfect! Not bad for something that was never made with this feature. Sounds like a simple task, but getting it to sit as tight as possible to the frame, but not interfere with it was a challenge. I even machined 1/3 off each bolt head to get it about 2.5mm plus another 2.5mm closer each way. Chain only has minimal clearance on tyre...but it works!

BOC can help you out with one

Kids and fucken chickens! Been tripping over them all day...

motor in. pretty stoked tbh. its funny how quickly i forgot how little room there is around this thing when its back in the bay. also the bonnet fits. 2020-01-24_05-44-54 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-24_05-45-02 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-24_05-45-10 by sheepers, on Flickr

Filled about 50 holes in the engine and removed all the brackets I no longer need. Laser cutting a sheet of all the filler pieces made it way quicker and easier! Where the chassis rail kicks up at the firewall is a known place where cracks can form. There was already one about 8mm long on the passengers side. Made some gussets and welded them in. Found some previous repairs around the rear hatch on the body. I think they just ground out the rust spots here and then bogged it up. Cut out and welded new steel in there. Another one here, this time just a piece of steel brazed over the top of the rust holes. Fixed! As well as a few more bits around the seal. Picked up a pair off TA22 Celica fender mirrors from YAJ, that you can kinda see. I think they look good, but hard to tell when half the cars missing. Bought a Estima F series diff. Stripped in right down, cut off all the brackets and then noticed one of the housing tubes was very bent! One end was out by at least 10mm. Had a go at straightening it, wrapped some chain around the tube and some big u-channel, and then used a bottle jack and heat to push it out. Came out pretty good, close enough to then shorten it. Drew up a jig that held it all square and inline. Shortened it by 105mm a side, so it's the same dimensions drum to drum as the factory diff. Bought some MRP adjustable 4-link arms off @Cdarust Got a Altezza Torsen LSD head to swap in. Made some upper and lower brackets for the diff. Borrowed @oftensideways rotisserie. Going to raise the rear 4-link body mounts up. About 50mm higher for the lower mount, which should make the lower arm level and somewhere between 50-100mm higher on the top arm. The angles are currently far too much and I've gone this far so may as well, will be good to get rid of the lower body mounts as they're the lowest part of the car. It shouldn't effect the rear seat too much either.

Get in touch with Kass at KP Upholstery if you want. Let him know I put you onto him. He's out Greerton and has done all my seats. Might have some nicer proper spec foam for you to get for cheappppp? 0273108620 - Worth a call anyway.

Oh yeah forgot. The brothers car has 4 pots and I got jealous so I bought some alfa romeo 166 brembos. I would assume that being Italian they'll leak until they blow up but painting on a BMW badge might resolve that. My theory is that the alfa brakes mounting holes are parallel (although not concentric) to the BMW ones which will keep the mounting bracket a bit more 2 dimensional. I have no idea if they'll fit but worth a shot for $200. At the risk of sounding shallow I wouldn't mind some larger discs for purely aesthetic reasons, but will see if the current disc is already a stretch. I feel like red Brembos is super cliche but these might end up red if I cant make the original paint look good. I wish the caliper rattle cans came in more colours. At least you can buy heat proof decals for them so they'll look the ducks nuts.

Loving the look of this thing mate! A customers Fatboy. Has a 120ci (2000cc) donk and is raised 2" front and rear. Still scrapes pipes cornering. LOOOOSE.

Keen mid/late March. keen regardless

Flew through a warrant today! Yus road legal again may of spent some time hooning around country roads today.

vip rear window .out getting some sun.covers for gas sturts for boot

been doing the new inner guards the last few weeks,boots all lined with new tank as ell

just doing the doors and rear guards at the moment new skins on doors and rear guards and new sills had them made deeper so car looks lower to the ground ,also cut the rear bumper and added two inchs into it

diff and rear wheels,and rool bar and rear legs in

its had the b pillars moved back and made into a two door .dash has been changed too

its also half chassised with 15 by 15 under it and a 383 big block

New airflow meter arrived a little late so had to persevere limping to work without one for an extra day Some one had fucked with it removing the screen that looking at prevents turbulence smashing the sensor from the blow off valve. It seems far smoother and pulls way better. Plugged it into the laptop and the numbers look way healthier. Goes so well i blew up my aliexpress boost gauge......

So i think i know more about Volkswagen control systems then i ever thought i needed to know. And it boils down to this.....

Hello IRD I would like to add Rockauto to my list of dependents i pay support for.