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Showing content with the highest reputation on 22/01/20 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Filled about 50 holes in the engine and removed all the brackets I no longer need. Laser cutting a sheet of all the filler pieces made it way quicker and easier! Where the chassis rail kicks up at the firewall is a known place where cracks can form. There was already one about 8mm long on the passengers side. Made some gussets and welded them in. Found some previous repairs around the rear hatch on the body. I think they just ground out the rust spots here and then bogged it up. Cut out and welded new steel in there. Another one here, this time just a piece of steel brazed over the top of the rust holes. Fixed! As well as a few more bits around the seal. Picked up a pair off TA22 Celica fender mirrors from YAJ, that you can kinda see. I think they look good, but hard to tell when half the cars missing. Bought a Estima F series diff. Stripped in right down, cut off all the brackets and then noticed one of the housing tubes was very bent! One end was out by at least 10mm. Had a go at straightening it, wrapped some chain around the tube and some big u-channel, and then used a bottle jack and heat to push it out. Came out pretty good, close enough to then shorten it. Drew up a jig that held it all square and inline. Shortened it by 105mm a side, so it's the same dimensions drum to drum as the factory diff. Bought some MRP adjustable 4-link arms off @Cdarust Got a Altezza Torsen LSD head to swap in. Made some upper and lower brackets for the diff. Borrowed @oftensideways rotisserie. Going to raise the rear 4-link body mounts up. About 50mm higher for the lower mount, which should make the lower arm level and somewhere between 50-100mm higher on the top arm. The angles are currently far too much and I've gone this far so may as well, will be good to get rid of the lower body mounts as they're the lowest part of the car. It shouldn't effect the rear seat too much either.
  2. 9 points
    Once all this was complete assembled and then took it for its first drive in a couple months, has new wheels on it which are subtle different Got home, had a yarn to the old neighbor about his glory days in these and rovers as it was idling, and then backed it into shed, quick look underneath, Was not happy to find this Had a look around and was oil around the back of the block where it meets the sandwhich plate and oil appears to have run down the gearbox as this was clean when i installed it Had a decent look around top of the motor and theres a banjo at the back of the head that seems to have oil behind it, gave it a quick wiggle as by this stage was getting on late in the night, wouldnt move, so im going to remove tonight and replace copper washers as i cant see it being anything else, rocker gasket was also replaced at same time as the above Fingers crossed this solves the issue
  3. 7 points
    WOF yeaterday...again another clean sheet..so all leagal for anothe 6 months. when i swapped motors i also swapped the 4 speed back in...( live in chch..fuck all motorways...flat....my work school home round trip is 32ks) and i prefer it to the 5 speed. also put a quick shifter in and it makes it heaps better. almost had ghe old gjrl 3 years now and love it...second longest ive owned a car. lol.
  4. 5 points
    Fender mirror bases painted in factory 035 white
  5. 4 points
    I had the old radiator re-cored by Burnside Radiators a couple of years ago, so no issues there. The 1uz came with the viscus hub fan, but it would be a pain to get a cowling to fit & I'm not keen for it to sound like a van. In keeping with the shoe-string budget I went climbing through the local wreckers with a tape measure & found a pretty bloody close fit. It almost looks like it was made for it! I'll do some minor trimming to fit it on, then wire it in.
  6. 4 points
  7. 3 points
    Smells like a sticky idle control valve.
  8. 3 points
    Been chipping away on this, biggest delay has been part leadtimes Made a bush press and swapped out the bushes, also done main subframe bushes while i was there. Fully spray undercoated the underside while it was up on jack stands
  9. 3 points
  10. 3 points
    Not much happening with this, got it legal and drove it around a bit over christmas break. Had a few new wheel days Put the streets on for a change Finally fixed a front guard, to replace the one that had an incident with the wall at hampton downs about 5 years ago. pretty good for a spray can job Got another pair of 14x7 03's from old mate @Dudley . Finished polishing them, and some antique gold. after digging out the other pair i'd been hording, they needed same treatment. guard slightly different colour, but will do for now /forever. maybe in another 5 years will fix the bonnet Back to the OG look from 10 years ago except for 7's instead of 6.5's
  11. 3 points
    Was able to get some time in the shed last week so got those extra layers of glass down on the pan. There's about 6 layers on with a mix of 200g and 300g matting so should be plenty strong enough. Got out there today and cut it into to shape I wanted. Ruff cut it first. Final cut and sanded edges. Chose to have it roll over top only slightly so should hug the frame nicely even when the vinyl is on but leave most of the frame exposed . Also chose to go up the tank abit so itll have a nice transition into the seat. And lastly I found I was able to reuse the original Suzuki seat tongue (I dont know what it's really called) to locate the front under the tank, slips in nicely. Next job will be to add a tab at the back to lock it down and also two other tabs on the sides to attach the indicators. Then I can paint the frame and get on the hunt for some comfy foam to use
  12. 3 points
    Bought a set 13x6.5 Work Equip 01's. Will refurbish them and then decide if I want to run them. Also scored this off Yahoo Auctions a while back. Has the plugs and also came with some black dash parts. Decided on how to raise the tunnel. Bent the handbrake section up to match the height of where the old gearbox tunnel top piece had to go. Then made up some filler pieces to fill the gaps. Plan was to keep it looking as factory as possible. Had to remake the crossmember as it needed to be built up higher. Used some tube that matched the radius and bent it to suit. Welded in filler pieces. Cleaned up. Next was to make some strips to fill in the sides. Had contemplated making them with the factory swagings, but decided it would be easier to flatten them out and make the strips flat. Then the tunnel to firewall gap needed filling. Made a paper template, transferred it to the steel, cut it, formed it and it nearly fitted perfectly first try. All cleaned up. Up next was the firewall cutout for the dizzy blank cover to sit in. Tried again to make it look factory, which I think turned out pretty good. Stripped out all the sound deadening with dry ice. Have only cleaned off the residue from the passengers seat and footwell area. Pulled out all the wiring as well. Need a F-series diff now.
  13. 2 points
    Is anyone going to this or planning a stand? I have a whole lot of stuff that needs selling so can tag along/set up a stand/whatever.
  14. 2 points
    Both front flares have now been fitted, and what an awesome job he's made of them...
  15. 2 points
    Cheers all for attending. Yeah sorry was late notice posting details, but the date is always the same 3rd sunday of January. (kumeu weekend). next new year meet will be 17th Jan 2021, put it in your calendar? Check the facebook link in first post, theres some pics in there already. Also looking to do an autumn meet this year, end of march or easter weekend. This page is usually updated first once i organise a meet ----> http://jap-olds.nz/
  16. 2 points
    Am going to attempt to install an interior plus some kind of noise insulation so I can hear myself think, Jesus Christ its loud in there! Also fancy new reel up seatbelts and see if I can get the ragtop to actually work.
  17. 2 points
    Get in touch with Kass at KP Upholstery if you want. Let him know I put you onto him. He's out Greerton and has done all my seats. Might have some nicer proper spec foam for you to get for cheappppp? 0273108620 - Worth a call anyway.
  18. 2 points
    You could use something like this and put a 180 bend at one end https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/universal-resonator-muffler-twin-25-1/
  19. 2 points
    Haven't tried anything like that. mostly straight though absorption, or multipass chambered. one im currently using is a combo of both seems to do a pretty good job on a cam'd 4age . its pretty big, which helps the cause. pics in link below. isn't pretty because is made from parts of the previous one that fell apart and junk had hanging about
  20. 2 points
    This would be a similar case in this size also. I did some research through our suppliers and found about 10 different brands that do the size. I can possibly look through the technical data of some of them to see which of them is the skinniest. @dspec_tt131 let me know what brand and pattern you've currently got and I can do some comparisons.
  21. 2 points
    Making a start on the gearbox and transfer case. The gear box is called a LT95 and is a 4 speed manual box with integrated transfer case. What is cool about the early boxes is they used a Salisbury limited slip differential on all Suffix A vehicles (easy to spot spotted as they were all painted red). In addition to the LSD function in the centre diff, the centre differential could also be locked via a vacuum actuator. But only around 300 vehicles were delivered with this LSD and sadly mine isn't equipped with it. After the first pre production and first year vehicles (1969-1970) they moved away from the limited slip feature with the differential as the gearbox had a serious amount of whine and felt pretty agricultural and stiff. To stop this they removed the friction discs on the differential and replaced them with distance discs instead but still retained the Salisbury differential, only now not limited slip but still retains the locking centre differential. They also managed to retain the agricultural feeling and gearbox whine... Shot of the early friction disc. Shot of the later style with the distance discs. This bit freaks me out a bit so I have a friend Glen giving me a hand on it. It is not his first rodeo with these boxes so I am in good hands! Gearbox and transfer case are now broken down into bits for a check up. Overall it is pretty good apart from a toasted needle bearing, worn intermediate shaft in transfer case and a bit of play in the mainshaft. All the gears are in good condition which is great as they get expensive to replace. Most of the parts have now been plated and all new fasteners. Now waiting on seal and bearing kit as well as the main shaft from the UK. Looking forward to getting it back together and in the chassis. Calipers test fitted and looking great with that HPC coating. Now to fit the rest of the hard lines.
  22. 2 points
    2nd drive with the prototype deflectors. this time a reasonably sedate cruise into work through 50/60kmh zones. previously this would have been semi uncomfortable and left me with an unpleasant wind blast feeling in my ears that lingered. today it was awesome, no different than driving a normal car with the window open. ill definitely proceed to making some nicer more refined parts.
  23. 2 points
    Chrome sill and arch trims put back on have managed to get the rear down to 250mm wheel hub to guard but untill I get to wheel alignment there's no telling if I'm within camber specs. Have ordered an airbox from a 1gge gx71 via yahoo. Doing some measuring on a friends car the intake pipe with temp sensor has the same pcd as my 1geu afm meaning I should be able to bolt it up to my stock airbox to keep things looking like the car came with the engine from the factory.
  24. 2 points
    Certed, dyno on next couple of weeks. Ongoing trans issues, I have been working hard at trying to get my head around the issue with a 2 3 shift that is fine at wot but is arse at part throttle. If anyone knows any 6 speed gm trans expert tuners, please pass on details...
  25. 1 point
    Need a quantum muffler to have max flow and no noise, 3" size only.
  26. 1 point
    pics of throttle body? from memory the 41 has a wax thermostat expandy thing on the bottom of the throttle body that ups the idle for cold start and the hot water pipes warm it up and make it back off. could be sticky. or as above, pull the aac valve off and give it a lube up
  27. 1 point
    Seat build info down near bottom of this if you want pics. Seat still going well several years later...
  28. 1 point
    This car show is coming up soon it was run for the first time last year and had a great variety of cars to suit everyone. Im sure it will be even bigger this year. They also have a stack of trophys up for grabs for both winner and runner up on each class.
  29. 1 point
    Have also been sandblasting, priming and painting other smaller parts.
  30. 1 point
    Panelbeater has been busy this week, both side panels have been removed, rolled and prepped ready for refitting.... He has also prepped the steel sport front arches ready for grafting onto the front wings.
  31. 1 point
    So alil bitta stuff been going on. Swaped startermotor from parts bike Fixed up a few small dumb things and.. sticcccccccckers hahha. Other side coverd in alsorts aswell just the seats base. Fone wont let me upload the other photo but. U get the idea
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Picked up a couple carburetor spacers at kumeu. I've decided to use this one (below). No real reason...but I just like the secondhand one better, it feels solid, with nicer finish and just looks better made to me. I brought a nipple to go into it. Marked out. Drilling it so I breakout the centre of the 2 first holes. My manifold is edelbrock dual plane, so I've drilled and ported so both sides/planes will get the shittyness of the blow-by fumes equally. I used liquid epoxy (cold weld) to seal the 3/8" ID hose to 1/4 BSPT fitting to avoid vaccum leaks. That liquid epoxy is magic stuff, its fuel resistant and I've sealed fittings into petrol tanks and 20 years later not a single leak.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Ive been driving this a bunch and im really beginning to remember why i love old cars so much. it so much fun. except at above 75kmh.... then its a windswept hellscape. 100kmh and its borderline undrivable. there is such a huge amount of turbulent wind blast that i knew id have to do something. first port of call probably should have been to test drive it with the full doors on, but they are now burred in the back of my shed behind the crown. so i threw together some basic deflectors at work today, and figured if they showed promise then ill pretty them up, make them adjustable and removable ect. well turns out they work pretty bloody well. its still windy, but not unbearable, and i may be able to tune them better once i make them angle adjustable. after all its still an open top car with the flat windshield. another suggestion from someone at work has been to lift the screen up creating a gap at the bottom to hopefully equalize out the low pressure zone behind the window, i may give this a go, but will cause problems with fitting the roof. i think some form of ear protection may be a good idea as the wind rush can get quite loud, if anyone has any suggestions for something that can sheild my ears from the wind, but wont mean i cant hear surrounding traffic ect making it dangerous id love to see them. i tried some old ear phones but they blocked out too much surrounding noise for my liking. ive driven with a hoodie over my heat and its much better, but often not practical.
  36. 1 point
    Go to tables and images https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/introduction/inspection-and-certification-process/identifying-the-vehicle-class you’ll be sorry you asked.
  37. 1 point
    Fixed the welder with a bit of wiring tracing and looking at stzz. Took out the circuit board behind the wire speed knob, cleaned years of garage dust/metal filling mix off the board which could of been bridging some circuits and doing something funny then there was a big grey box on the board that I guessed was a relay so gave that a tap with a screw driver and its back to working properly which is great because I didnt wanna have to buy a new welder
  38. 1 point
    St191 caldina powersteering reservoir and bracket as 1gge are remote reservoir
  39. 1 point
    More welder issues Have a Cebora Bravo 155 and after doing a bit of welding to make up a leveling bar its decided that the wire is constantly live/gas flow doesnt turn off. Wire still feeds when trigger is pulled but its constantly live. Looks like this with the cover off, gas flow stops when I take a terminal off the gas solenoid. Where should I start looking for an issue?
  40. 1 point
    Edited date due to a clash with Mr. Warnock 28/29 March Lesssshgooo
  41. 1 point
    Machining. More machining.. WTF??? You crazy cunt, it's in sideways!!! Oh, not so crazy after all. Pretty... Mmmmm PCV valve goodness. Just going my part for the environment (like I'd really lose sleep over fake news like man made climate change). I'm just sick of it leaking oil on my shed floor. Just gotta hook up a catch can or route it into my intake vaccum to get rid of my crankcase vapour and problem solved.
  42. 1 point
    A guy on facebook was giving away some motors and parts, after finishing his project. Drove over to Greymouth to collect them. Now got 4 parts motors, so should hopefully have enough good bits when it comes to building a motor for it. Finished stripping the engine bay, removed suspension and cross member. I have made a start removing the underseal from the guards, only been finding some light surface rust so far. Will continue removing the undereseal and make a start bare metalling the engine bay next.
  43. 1 point
    well i havnt build the new motor yet .....because i have other shit to play with.....but the old pinhoe has been getting worse......blows shit loads of smoke and sounds like a diesel... the mk3 parts car i bought had a mighty pinthoe in it... so i pulled it out pulled the clutch ,flywheel,pressure plate,inlet and carb , thermostat and water pump of mine and slapped it on to the other one.... reason being mine ran and i had done them last year. some new plugs and oil.....and man it starts first pop.....no smoke.....and so quiet . old pinthoe other old pinthoe blooody good
  44. 1 point
    Long time no nothing. life and new born getting in the way but found some time over the break to sort some stuff out. Took this thing for a wof a while ago and the fella reckoned I had chopped "too much off". According to him and a few other people I talked to I need to have left at least 100mm of frame on after the shock mounts. So abit butt hurt i knew had some options, scrap the bike, part it out, or weld on new rear hoop and change set up. Seeing as ive given up on too many project in my past, option C is what I've gone for. Progress is as follows. Acquired rear hoop. Made inner tube pieces for support. Chopped hoop to preferred size. Welded it all together. Purchased fiberglass. Wrapped bike in glad wrap. Laid fiberglass. And here we are. I always wanted to try make my own seat so that's what I'm going to try do, from the pan to upholstery. I ran out of resin so will have to pick up more and do a couple more layers when I get round do it, I will most likely weld in a support peice at the back too. but for now I'm happy with were I've gotten.
  45. 1 point
    Not long after the above post i purchased a house so drove the car through to Central for what was supposed to be a few months until i built my shed. Approx 12months later it returned Took it for a wof, put on my new wheels (pics to come, due to the below it was only on the road one day) Turns out the rear main seal decided it didnt want to be a seal anymore and started leaking more than a British Car should Gearbox was a mess Cleaned up alright Appears to be the problem Took the sump off as thought ill do the gasket while im in there, found a lovely surprise This also cleaned up pretty good Taking out the whole rear end to do all the bushes and will underseal while everything is out. Reassemble and new exhaust just in time for summer hopefully!
  46. 1 point
    Engine is going to be rebuilt with a few new bits Previous bottom end was a silvertop bottom end. Balanced with arp rod bolts and toda 82mm pistons. rest stock. This time: Same toda pistons : awaiting new rings Brian Crower rods: just some off the self rods. mostly because they are around 100gm lighter per rod than what was in there ARP mains Toda Oil pump gears The broken stuff; Crank seen better days. Block had some unrelated pitting in the bores, looks like it had water or something sitting around rings when it wasn't in use for some time. mostly at the bottom of the stroke, so probably wasn't loosing any power from it. Head: valves look ok, awaiting 2nd opinion from engine guy So yeh no more 20v parts, had a spare 16v ze block and crank, will be base for new bottom end. Suspect that the valves have been starting to float. so will be putting these fancy beehive springs in. at the moment it has supertech singles. which are borderline for what im doing No#3 toast
  47. 1 point
    Start of winter was driving along the one way in town and looked out the rear view mirror to a trail of oil followed by an oil light The rubber o ring on the filter gave way, blew most of its oil out. Luckily I was quick on it and flicked it off. Changed the bumpers over to the early shape ones with no rubber strip
  48. 1 point
    Summertime!slammage.(sitting on a funny angle) cruized around town the other night.me and Bell climbed a tree.birds eye view.since I got it back on the road I've been sure the exhaust didn't sound right, as it had been nearly a decade I just rolled with it but for the last week or two it been starting to sound more and more like a massey ferguson by the day. So on friday night I dropped the whole thing out, which was better easy as half the nuts holding it on were missing and one of the studs, so sorry about that if you were following me at the time!and then I found this on one of the heat exchanger pipes.what the fuckity? luckily I have a welder, also don't weld in jandels, that shit hurts!Should last another couple months, right? got it all back together last yesterday which nearly killed me in this heat! and finally I can hear the actual exhaust note now, brum brum!! I like it alot.Also spring washers where used this time so all the nuts and studs should stay put!
  49. 1 point
    Sup folks! still rolling this pile daily. been out to a few shows C&C, Kumeu the other day, even made it to Auckland Burgermeet!Actual Update Material! Got some new rear tyres for xmas, as the others where 15 years old and bald as fuck.actually slid out on me in the dry once!Fancy Pirelli and everything, heaps of grips, just like a F1 car mate!The guys at Lincoln Tyres sold them to me at a better price than shitty firehawks etc..making the most of summer!!rollin rollin rollin...
  50. 1 point
    Been pushing along... 5 lug rear end rebuilt with eaton tru track for 11's. Driveshaft rebuilt and balanced, although I screwed up the size on the last U joint. All the mounts are now fully completed and in, firewall painted with extreme rattle can goodness, fuel lines 90% there. Interior stripped out. Full week on it in a weeks time, hoping to smash out wiring and get the front end on.
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