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Showing content with the highest reputation on 22/01/20 in all areas

  1. Filled about 50 holes in the engine and removed all the brackets I no longer need. Laser cutting a sheet of all the filler pieces made it way quicker and easier! Where the chassis rail kicks up at the firewall is a known place where cracks can form. There was already one about 8mm long on the passengers side. Made some gussets and welded them in. Found some previous repairs around the rear hatch on the body. I think they just ground out the rust spots here and then bogged it up. Cut out and welded new steel in there. Another one here, this ti
    9 points
  2. Once all this was complete assembled and then took it for its first drive in a couple months, has new wheels on it which are subtle different Got home, had a yarn to the old neighbor about his glory days in these and rovers as it was idling, and then backed it into shed, quick look underneath, Was not happy to find this Had a look around and was oil around the back of the block where it meets the sandwhich plate and oil appears to have run down the gearbox as this was clean when i installed it Had a decent look around top of the motor and theres a banjo a
    9 points
  3. WOF yeaterday...again another clean sheet..so all leagal for anothe 6 months. when i swapped motors i also swapped the 4 speed back in...( live in chch..fuck all motorways...flat....my work school home round trip is 32ks) and i prefer it to the 5 speed. also put a quick shifter in and it makes it heaps better. almost had ghe old gjrl 3 years now and love it...second longest ive owned a car. lol.
    7 points
  4. Fender mirror bases painted in factory 035 white
    5 points
  5. I had the old radiator re-cored by Burnside Radiators a couple of years ago, so no issues there. The 1uz came with the viscus hub fan, but it would be a pain to get a cowling to fit & I'm not keen for it to sound like a van. In keeping with the shoe-string budget I went climbing through the local wreckers with a tape measure & found a pretty bloody close fit. It almost looks like it was made for it! I'll do some minor trimming to fit it on, then wire it in.
    4 points
  6. Smells like a sticky idle control valve.
    3 points
  7. Been chipping away on this, biggest delay has been part leadtimes Made a bush press and swapped out the bushes, also done main subframe bushes while i was there. Fully spray undercoated the underside while it was up on jack stands
    3 points
  8. Not much happening with this, got it legal and drove it around a bit over christmas break. Had a few new wheel days Put the streets on for a change Finally fixed a front guard, to replace the one that had an incident with the wall at hampton downs about 5 years ago. pretty good for a spray can job Got another pair of 14x7 03's from old mate @Dudley . Finished polishing them, and some antique gold. after digging out the other pair i'd been hording, they needed same treatment. guard slightly different colour, but will do for now /forever. maybe in a
    3 points
  9. Was able to get some time in the shed last week so got those extra layers of glass down on the pan. There's about 6 layers on with a mix of 200g and 300g matting so should be plenty strong enough. Got out there today and cut it into to shape I wanted. Ruff cut it first. Final cut and sanded edges. Chose to have it roll over top only slightly so should hug the frame nicely even when the vinyl is on but leave most of the frame exposed . Also chose to go up the tank abit so itll have a nice transition into the seat. And lastly I found I was able to reuse the
    3 points
  10. Bought a set 13x6.5 Work Equip 01's. Will refurbish them and then decide if I want to run them. Also scored this off Yahoo Auctions a while back. Has the plugs and also came with some black dash parts. Decided on how to raise the tunnel. Bent the handbrake section up to match the height of where the old gearbox tunnel top piece had to go. Then made up some filler pieces to fill the gaps. Plan was to keep it looking as factory as possible. Had to remake the crossmember as it needed to be built up higher. Used some tube that matched the radius and bent it to su
    3 points
  11. Is anyone going to this or planning a stand? I have a whole lot of stuff that needs selling so can tag along/set up a stand/whatever.
    2 points
  12. Both front flares have now been fitted, and what an awesome job he's made of them...
    2 points
  13. Cheers all for attending. Yeah sorry was late notice posting details, but the date is always the same 3rd sunday of January. (kumeu weekend). next new year meet will be 17th Jan 2021, put it in your calendar? Check the facebook link in first post, theres some pics in there already. Also looking to do an autumn meet this year, end of march or easter weekend. This page is usually updated first once i organise a meet ----> http://jap-olds.nz/
    2 points
  14. Am going to attempt to install an interior plus some kind of noise insulation so I can hear myself think, Jesus Christ its loud in there! Also fancy new reel up seatbelts and see if I can get the ragtop to actually work.
    2 points
  15. Get in touch with Kass at KP Upholstery if you want. Let him know I put you onto him. He's out Greerton and has done all my seats. Might have some nicer proper spec foam for you to get for cheappppp? 0273108620 - Worth a call anyway.
    2 points
  16. You could use something like this and put a 180 bend at one end https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/universal-resonator-muffler-twin-25-1/
    2 points
  17. Haven't tried anything like that. mostly straight though absorption, or multipass chambered. one im currently using is a combo of both seems to do a pretty good job on a cam'd 4age . its pretty big, which helps the cause. pics in link below. isn't pretty because is made from parts of the previous one that fell apart and junk had hanging about
    2 points
  18. This would be a similar case in this size also. I did some research through our suppliers and found about 10 different brands that do the size. I can possibly look through the technical data of some of them to see which of them is the skinniest. @dspec_tt131 let me know what brand and pattern you've currently got and I can do some comparisons.
    2 points
  19. Making a start on the gearbox and transfer case. The gear box is called a LT95 and is a 4 speed manual box with integrated transfer case. What is cool about the early boxes is they used a Salisbury limited slip differential on all Suffix A vehicles (easy to spot spotted as they were all painted red). In addition to the LSD function in the centre diff, the centre differential could also be locked via a vacuum actuator. But only around 300 vehicles were delivered with this LSD and sadly mine isn't equipped with it. After the first pre production and first year vehicles (1969-1970) they move
    2 points
  20. 2nd drive with the prototype deflectors. this time a reasonably sedate cruise into work through 50/60kmh zones. previously this would have been semi uncomfortable and left me with an unpleasant wind blast feeling in my ears that lingered. today it was awesome, no different than driving a normal car with the window open. ill definitely proceed to making some nicer more refined parts.
    2 points
  21. Chrome sill and arch trims put back on have managed to get the rear down to 250mm wheel hub to guard but untill I get to wheel alignment there's no telling if I'm within camber specs. Have ordered an airbox from a 1gge gx71 via yahoo. Doing some measuring on a friends car the intake pipe with temp sensor has the same pcd as my 1geu afm meaning I should be able to bolt it up to my stock airbox to keep things looking like the car came with the engine from the factory.
    2 points
  22. Certed, dyno on next couple of weeks. Ongoing trans issues, I have been working hard at trying to get my head around the issue with a 2 3 shift that is fine at wot but is arse at part throttle. If anyone knows any 6 speed gm trans expert tuners, please pass on details...
    2 points
  23. POSTPONED TIL ALL THIS VIRUS SHIT IS OVER WITH Hello and Welcome Mr L. Warnock and myself would like to invite interested parties to a weekend of riding small bikes through the backroads of the Bay of Plenty sometime in March, the plan is as follows.... Dates set as 28/29 March Saturday - Meet in Mount Maunganui in the morning where there will be space to park vehicles for the weekend and head off via the harbour bridge and through Tauranga town to Welcome Bay where we will head into the rural hinterland and cut through to Te Puke via a scenic backroad that is mos
    1 point
  24. thats the idle air (AAC valve) behind the throttle cable bracket. give that a strip and clean first the 2nd throttle cable attachment is for the cruise control actuator cable, and the cam bit behind that is to make the throttle open slowly at first to make it easier to control at low rpm that black cylinder is the traction control motor. it drives a 2nd butterfly in front of the main throttle and shuts when it detects you having fun
    1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. https://spintechmufflers.com/blog/spin-tech-entropy-muffler-technology/
    1 point
  27. pics of throttle body? from memory the 41 has a wax thermostat expandy thing on the bottom of the throttle body that ups the idle for cold start and the hot water pipes warm it up and make it back off. could be sticky. or as above, pull the aac valve off and give it a lube up
    1 point
  28. I just used sleeping mat foam from the warehouse. Closed cell so waterproof, can glue together and is sandable for shaping. Cos it's fairly hard I added a gel pad on seat section, and covered the lot in smoothing foam to even out before it went to upholsterer...
    1 point
  29. It's going to be a Brubaker Box, is it ? Go on, put a Brubaker Box there.
    1 point
  30. Oh yeah forgot. The brothers car has 4 pots and I got jealous so I bought some alfa romeo 166 brembos. I would assume that being Italian they'll leak until they blow up but painting on a BMW badge might resolve that. My theory is that the alfa brakes mounting holes are parallel (although not concentric) to the BMW ones which will keep the mounting bracket a bit more 2 dimensional. I have no idea if they'll fit but worth a shot for $200. At the risk of sounding shallow I wouldn't mind some larger discs for purely aesthetic reasons, but will see if the current disc is already a stretch. I f
    1 point
  31. So I decided that the only sensible course of action was to build a garage worthy of projects. The car was stored at a mates for a while but I’ve since brought it home to papa and it’s front and (off)centre of the shed. I wanted to keep to a budget but by the time you’ve paid for the electrical gear and the ply and floor paint, it all adds up! Haven’t even poured a driveway yet which will sting. Considering the ply sheets are cheap bunnings spec I’m pretty happy with some of the grain Anyway... to the car. I bought a staggered set of M-parallels. If you’re not a bmw person
    1 point
  32. Makes a mess but seems to be cutting alright. It's pretty inconsistent on the back side, I'd be surprised if it was actually in balance before.
    1 point
  33. Beat the inner guard lip with a hammer and trimmed the chrome edge to suit around where I folded the lip. Planning on a full re-spray post certification so things like this can be painted and undersealed then
    1 point
  34. Well, the momentum got a little lost unfortunately, life got in the way for a wee bit. Managed to get a couple more things done though. One good step forward, but also a couple of annoying steps back. First, the backward steps; my modified dizzy cam trigger idea would work, but it really crowds the area where I need to build the thermostat housing. Not impossible, but just really annoying. Dad was around the other day and we were talking shit and he noticed a little nubbin sticking out of the factory cam... So I think I'll make something up to use that as the trigger tooth. A m
    1 point
  35. Fixed the welder with a bit of wiring tracing and looking at stzz. Took out the circuit board behind the wire speed knob, cleaned years of garage dust/metal filling mix off the board which could of been bridging some circuits and doing something funny then there was a big grey box on the board that I guessed was a relay so gave that a tap with a screw driver and its back to working properly which is great because I didnt wanna have to buy a new welder
    1 point
  36. 70 on the flat will be fine but if you wanna go bigblock then why not
    1 point
  37. A couple months ago this got featured in the NZV8 magazine. @Snoozin did a wonderful job! Got sick of the doors not shutting correctly. Had my parent's bring back some Altman latches from the US on one of their trips over. Relatively simple to install, but modified a few things so they work a bit nicer and installed some electric solenoids. Need to sort some more door seals as these ones leave some large gaps in places. The final thing that needed doing to "finish" it off finally got done! Mark Dunn in Levin did an awesome job on the u
    1 point
  38. Not long after the above post i purchased a house so drove the car through to Central for what was supposed to be a few months until i built my shed. Approx 12months later it returned Took it for a wof, put on my new wheels (pics to come, due to the below it was only on the road one day) Turns out the rear main seal decided it didnt want to be a seal anymore and started leaking more than a British Car should Gearbox was a mess Cleaned up alright Appears to be the problem Took the sump off as thought ill do the gasket while im in there, fou
    1 point
  39. Decided to try and get this thing riding a bit nicer, previous suspension setup was a little soft and hit the bump stops a bit too often, and with the extra weight of a 4age it would of been worse. Went with a set of Fortune Auto's coilovers all around, since I'll end up chucking an F series or similar diff in and I have the skills to strengthen the rear strut towers. Picked up another pair of struts, cut them down and and blasted them. Wound them all the way down and the front ended up a little higher and the back's a bit lower. Might try and get the front down a bit mo
    1 point
  40. i got some of the years and a wee bit of outside life followed by neglect cleaned off the block.
    1 point
  41. Engine is going to be rebuilt with a few new bits Previous bottom end was a silvertop bottom end. Balanced with arp rod bolts and toda 82mm pistons. rest stock. This time: Same toda pistons : awaiting new rings Brian Crower rods: just some off the self rods. mostly because they are around 100gm lighter per rod than what was in there ARP mains Toda Oil pump gears The broken stuff; Crank seen better days. Block had some unrelated pitting in the bores, looks like it had water or something sitting around rings when it wasn't in use for some time. mo
    1 point
  42. more dyno stuff.... Had to finish the tune after swapping to the small headers. Tried a few things while it was on there. First up; some time ago read something on the internet, that throttles may flow better/make more power just under 100% open rather than 100% open. Yeh nar; blue: 96% open, tried 98% as well same deal just a bit closer to red (100%) line. Maybe it needs even bigger throttles? they are 47mm Next is with the trumpets removed. the below removed all together was expecting some big losses, but not quite like this! ove
    1 point
  43. Moving pictures and loud noises version of last post. Got some decent sound quality this time
    1 point
  44. 6month update time, its been great driving the bug again, only real problems have been the electric fuel pump not pumping(earth being bad) and the right park light not working(also earth I guess?) headlight still works so ???The main thing was the brakes, or lack there of! After the whole, rear hard line episode, I had bled and adjusted them a few times and come to find when I reinstalled the handbrake cables the left one wasn't sitting its guide under the lever, which resulted in the shoe being on at all times, wearing away all the shoe lining and nearly cooking the rear brake to the point th
    1 point
  45. Couple more photos of engine bay and interior.
    1 point
  46. Been a good week, cleaned up the floor on the interior, painted it, dynamat (hate you). Then did final install on the engine, inlet manifold and wiring and the up high alt, and ac compressor brackets, just waiting on the power steering pump. My boy cleaned up the interior panels on the front end and resprayed them, and the front end is sitting back where it needs to be.... AC is halfway done, wiring is started, fuel lines 90%. Power on for the next three days and hopefully have most electrical stuff and some other rats and mice done.
    1 point
  47. Been pushing along... 5 lug rear end rebuilt with eaton tru track for 11's. Driveshaft rebuilt and balanced, although I screwed up the size on the last U joint. All the mounts are now fully completed and in, firewall painted with extreme rattle can goodness, fuel lines 90% there. Interior stripped out. Full week on it in a weeks time, hoping to smash out wiring and get the front end on.
    1 point
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