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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/19/20 in all areas

  1. Not much happening with this, got it legal and drove it around a bit over christmas break. Had a few new wheel days Put the streets on for a change Finally fixed a front guard, to replace the one that had an incident with the wall at hampton downs about 5 years ago. pretty good for a spray can job Got another pair of 14x7 03's from old mate @Dudley . Finished polishing them, and some antique gold. after digging out the other pair i'd been hording, they needed same treatment. guard slightly different colour, but will do for now /forever. maybe in another 5 years will fix the bonnet Back to the OG look from 10 years ago except for 7's instead of 6.5's
    11 points
  2. Happy as! Stripped the diffs and epoxisprayed them. had the bottom U bolt plates acid dipped them epoxi sprayed them too. installed all the new suspension, greaseable shackles and bolts, adjustable drop steering arm and torque arm just need bump stops, and steering rod rack ends. and get some sanding wheels for the drill to take out the build up in the shackle mount tubes thinking with the Honda engine exhaust being on the drivers side I might as well do the fuel and break lines now and swap them to the other side
    5 points
  3. Picked up a couple carburetor spacers at kumeu. I've decided to use this one (below). No real reason...but I just like the secondhand one better, it feels solid, with nicer finish and just looks better made to me. I brought a nipple to go into it. Marked out. Drilling it so I breakout the centre of the 2 first holes. My manifold is edelbrock dual plane, so I've drilled and ported so both sides/planes will get the shittyness of the blow-by fumes equally. I used liquid epoxy (cold weld) to seal the 3/8" ID hose to 1/4 BSPT fitting to avoid vaccum leaks. That liquid epoxy is magic stuff, its fuel resistant and I've sealed fittings into petrol tanks and 20 years later not a single leak.
    4 points
  4. Yeah again another dece as meet. Great turnout too. Seafood chowder was on point and sneaking off to get the good parks was also a brilliant plan hahaha
    4 points
  5. Beat the inner guard lip with a hammer and trimmed the chrome edge to suit around where I folded the lip. Planning on a full re-spray post certification so things like this can be painted and undersealed then
    4 points
  6. Soooo... Turned the tig up to "eleventy" and gave it some jandal!!! I ran it over all the mig welds and melted them into the parent metal hard core. Then used a heap of filler to create a 45° web in the highest stress points. I'll smooth the corner fillet weld a touch more with some sandpaper or flap disc (wont need much) and call it done, then send it out for chrome. Actually really happy with it now.
    3 points
  7. Is it a bosch alternator with a plug that looks like an injector plug on it? If so One is the sense wire, goes to the battery Other one is the warning lamp I got one the other day and I think the guy said it will work without the warning light hooked up but it's a good idea to hook it up anyway
    3 points
  8. Yeah it’s good in the daylight, I wanted to see what the motogadget looked like in the sun and it was mint too. I’ll get a pic and post it tomorrow in the sun. Had it running again after all the wiring was done. Sounds ok currently, definitely want to pack out the muffler with more baffle to get the deeper tone. Also need to sort out this headlight bracket, it’s too big for the bike so I’m after a shorter one to pull the headlight back into the frame more. And lower the front a bit.
    3 points
  9. Impala parts. And another angle grinder and a drill...cause I keep breaking them, because they just don't make em like they used to!
    3 points
  10. Well, the momentum got a little lost unfortunately, life got in the way for a wee bit. Managed to get a couple more things done though. One good step forward, but also a couple of annoying steps back. First, the backward steps; my modified dizzy cam trigger idea would work, but it really crowds the area where I need to build the thermostat housing. Not impossible, but just really annoying. Dad was around the other day and we were talking shit and he noticed a little nubbin sticking out of the factory cam... So I think I'll make something up to use that as the trigger tooth. A mount that uses the cam tower bolts. This means that I'll have wiring inside the rocker cover, which gives me pause for thought... But motorsport wiring is something I've got a lot of experience with, and I'm confident I can make it reliable :-). A GS1005 sensor, booted and potted, with DR25 sheathed M22759/32 wiring and It should stand the test of time. I'll make up a custom half-moon seal for the back of the head for the wiring to exit out of. The other step back was also trigger related. I've got a Link ECU for this, and it clearly says in their doc that the crank trigger wheel needs to have a number of teeth that divides into 360 with no remainder... Damn integer math! The SOHC balance shaft sprockets have 32 teeth, so that's not going to work :-(. This is a pretty easy fix really, I just need to machine up a replacement for the sprocket that has a number of teeth that divides in 360... I modeled up a replacement with 12 teeth and printed a test to make sure it would clear everything, its all good. I've shamelessly ripped this off from the kiggly racing trigger kit, but its like $400 to get one of those landed and I'm just not keen to open the wallet to that extent on this thing. I've gone with 12 teeth, dictated by the tooling I've got on hand to make the cuts, hah. Although now that I think of it, we've just had a new EDM wirecutter turn up at work, if I waited a few months I could do any number of teeth I want on that... Ahhh future me's problem. 12 tooth is a little coarser that I'd like with a 272 cam, but all it will mean is a little bit of timing jitter at idle. I'll tell myself it'll just make it lope a bit more at idle and I'll look cool at the lights. Yeah, sure. Right on to the win! I got the coil mount I designed up profile cut and bent it up, and golly gosh, it actually fits! There is something uniquely satisfying in seeing something you've only designed in CAD as a physical object in the real world. I need to get the right fasteners for it, and I think i'll paint it wrinkle black, as that's what the rocker cover will be (with polished lettering of course, because 80's). I'd love to get rid of the ECI-Multi on top of the inlet manifold, because the text is around the wrong way and it drives the OCD nuts, but I cant think of a tidy way to do it... Any ideas out there? I bent it up on a combination of a press-brake and a big finger folder. It needs mild persuasion to get the bolts in place, but really only half a mm or so, which I think is pretty decent for a 3mm sheet metal part with those angles. What I really should do is spend some time calibrating my fusion360 sheetmetal profiles to the tools I have available. Maybe next week? Probably not. I can start on the pattern for the wiring harness now the coils are mounted, that will be another great job to get ticked off. I'll be building it out of offcuts and what not, but will keep it nice and tidy, Fun times :-). Hope this post made sense, I'm 4 ciders deep and waiting for pizza for dinner. Hmmmmmmm Pizza.
    3 points
  11. Well, it has been an interesting time on the TVR front. Most recently, I have been dealing with one of those "why did I start this" jobs on the car. One of the first things I did after failing the WOF inspection was to order some new tyres. The old tyres, although both a good brand (Dunlop) and near new tread, were as hard as rocks, slippery as anything, starting to crack, the wrong size, and were flat-spotted. Its no surprise really, they were about 10 years old. The spare was even worse, I suspect it may have been from 1986, as its a long-obsolete model (Good Year Eagle NCT 60, the original spec tyre for the TVR), the rubber felt like plastic, and the date stamp was 196 without an arrow (the arrow indicates it's from the 90s, and a three-digit number indicates its pre-2000). They got their monies worth out of this one! After much deliberation, I decided to revert back to the standard size all around, at a "low profile" 205/60R14. The old rears were 215/65R14, so not only wider but also a lot taller (about 16mm taller than standard). This always looked a bit wrong to me; too much sidewall. I don't know if the reason for the size change was just because of what was on hand, or if there was a deliberate choice to do it, but Its not my thing. I did have some issue getting the original size; there wasn't a lot of options for brands, but I chose to go with a tyre that's a decent economy tyre. No, it's not as good as a performance tyre, but options were limited, as was my budget, and at the price I got these for it was hard to say no. A decent new economy tyre is better than any old, hard, performance tyre. The tyre I chose was a Nexen CP672. It has good reviews, is a modern Korean made tyre, and Nexen is OEM fit on some Hyundai and Kia cars, so it can't be all bad. At least it's not a Chinese ditch-finder. Hover car, again The Saab came in handy for taking it all down to the tyre shop for fitting. The Honda probably could've managed, but the Saab just ate it all up with space to spare. With the new tyres fitted, it was time to tackle the reason I failed the WOF. The front lower ball joints. It turns out these are the original 40 year old ball joints, as they are riveted to the arms. The replacements all have bolts holding them in. Not great news, they're a prick to get out. I struggled around a bit on the first one, but worked out some tips that made the second a lot quicker and easier. First, this job sucks. It's messy, it's hard to access, and takes more than your usual spanner set to do. The split pin in the nut was my first issue. It was old and properly rusted into the hole. After a lot of faffing about trying to hammer it out with a punch, and then trying to smash it up with a chisel, the easiest way for me to remove it wasn't to remove it at all, but to chop the tails off, slip a spanner on the nut and swing off it until the nut cut through the split pin. You can see the split pin remains still in the hole, about halfway down the thread. Both the nut, and the joint are junk, so not an issue. Now, if you have a ball joint splitter, go ahead and use it to split the ball joint, otherwise use the BFH and hit the knuckle with a few sharp hits, and the taper should pop. I found jacking the hub up helps to put pressure on the taper and make it easier to pop. You can see in the above photo I have removed the two bolts from the tie bar. This wasn't smart, it was a real pain to line it back up again, what I did on the second one was to use a clamp and hold the bar into place on the arm, and leaving the nut-less bolts in the holes to align it Next, undo the nut off the tie rod end and release the taper. Move the tie rod out of the way. Now for the fun part, grab your grinder, and grind the top of the rivets down so they are as low as possible, and flat. Use a punch to mark the center of the rivet, and using plenty of cutting oil, starting with a small drill bit, drill through the rivet. Work your way up to a larger bit. After a couple of different sizes I changed to a step drill. Take care not to enlarge the hole in the arm. The goal is to cut the head off the rivet, so you can get a chisel in and split the parts Once you do both of the rivets, push the ball joint through the arm and that's part one done. The new ones should come with a pair of nuts and bolts to replace the rivets, as well as a grease nipple. Fit the nipple, and pump the joint full of grease Now refit the new joint from the underside of the arm. Make sure everything lines up, and leave all the bolts loose until everything is aligned and in place. Once all the bolts are in, tighten them all up. The two large nuts want to be 58-68NM, whilst the little ones don't have a torque setting, so just do them up tight. Now for another fun part, getting the hub back onto the taper. I found this to be too much of an arm-full, so used a jack between the two arms to lift the upper arm and lower the knuckle over the stud. Not a Ford/TVR approved method, I'm sure, but it worked well. And then you refit the nut. The Nylock was a pain to fit as until it cut through the nylon it kept trying to spin the balljoint, but I got there in the end. There is a torque setting, but I couldn't get a torque wrench in there, so settled for bloody tight with a spanner. With both sides done, on went the wheels with new tyres, and it was time for a shakedown. The front end feels a bit tighter, but the biggest difference are the new tyres, which don't try and kill you when you point the car at a corner, and the rear shocks (new damper adjustable replacements also went in as I felt the old ones were a bit soft) control the rear end better. The incorrectly high (40psi) tyre pressure resulted in a nice light steering, but a harsher ride and less grip than when the pressure was lowered to the correct 24psi. I think this car has the heaviest steering of any car I have driven. I could help but take some photos. It's a great looking little car, and such an experience to drive. So, with new bits in, it was time for the WOF recheck. Almost 4 years since the last one expired, a new WOF! Its a great feeling, knowing the car is finally good enough that its back on the road, when for the last few years it had been sitting at a workshop being ignored because the injection work was just "too hard". Sadly the injection work is just the tip of the iceberg of issues with this car, but I'm working through them. I do wish the seller, or (more importantly) the "specialist" were honest about the condition of the car. Some of these issues aren't new, and are hard to miss. So with a new WOF, what's the first thing I do? Go out and enjoy the car right? Nah, that's not how I work. It was time to take the car off the road again, and fix the brakes. I knew this job was going to be bad, but little did I know how bad it was about to get. As I previously mentioned, the brakes had a shudder. This was also noted at the WOF, but wasn't enough to fail on, yet. Unfortunately, I had had enough of the shudder. It was bad when braking from 100kph, and annoying coming to a stop, so had to be fixed. I purchased a set of new rotors, front and rear, but just needed to fit them. I was originally going to start with the fronts, as they are a lot easier to access, but decided to do the hard ones first, and get it over and done with; the rears. Of course because I have inboard rear brakes, nothing was going to be simple. I asked around and the general opinion was that it was easiest to drop the whole rear diff to get the calipers off, so the rotors could be removed. Yay. Dropping the diff on a Wedge isn't too bad of a job, especially with the trailing arm models like mine, as there aren't a whole lot of things holding the assembly in. Unfortunately, we found the job was made much harder on my car thanks to whoever designed the exhaust, as there isn't quite enough space between the two exhaust pipes to slip the calipers down and out. After a heck of a lot of levering, and much help from my lovely apprentice, this happened I'll tell you now, this thing is bloody heavy. We lowered it on the jack, and removed it from the jack to work on it. I'm not too sure how we will get it back on the jack to refit it, lots of brute force I guess. With everything on the ground it was time to remove the calipers to extract the rotors. The handbrake calipers on the top need to go first. These are held in by two pins each. One side had nice (barely) greased and free pins, the other had dry, stuck, pins. Not ideal at all. They did come out in the end. The hand brake pads looked OK. I have receipts for them being replaced a few years ago. The units need a good clean though. Next, the calipers came off. These were missing the lock wire on the bolts. and then the old rotors You can see the extent of the runout in the wear on the rotor. Above the two arrows in rough and rusty, below them is shiny and smooth. The shiny spot is the high point, where the pads have been contacting well, and the rough part where the pads haven't been working as well. I gave the shims a quick wire brush to get the obvious crud off them, and fit the new rotors. Here is an action shot; brushing so quick my arm is nothing but a blur This is where it went all a little pear-shaped. I didn't check the runout on the new rotors before fitting the calipers, and when I did, it was worse than before I pulled the lot out. Previously on the old rotors, I had about 0.35mm runout. Now I had over 0.60mm runout. Crap. At this point, I flipped tables and gave up for the day. Well, they looked nice anyway. Mmm Brembo. Today I forced myself to go into the garage and see what I could work out. I knew the shims looked a bit average, so let's start there. I pulled the shims off and had a look at what I had. It wasn't good. The shims are stuffed. Rusted, crusty, painted and missing bits. And the flange didn't do much better. It had baked on crusty rust, and paint on it I had to chip a few bits like this off with a chisel, and then I wire brushed thoroughly I can still see some room for improvement there too, but its a lot better. The first way to see where the runout is, is to remove all the shims and see if the rotor runs true when mounted directly to the flange. After cleaning the flange, I fit the rotor to it and checked runout. The old rotor makes a great mount for the dial indicator Much better at 0.08mm. I think I can get it a little lower with some strategic scraping, but the spec is up to 0.10mm That's a great success. I did the same to the other side too. The shims were worse here, and the flanges covered in old crusty rust I cleaned these up and tested them. Boom, awesome. 0.035mm So the take away from this is a few things. I need new shims. DONT paint faces of flanges or shims. ALWAYS use copper grease on shims to stop them sticking together and reduce corrosion. Oh, and the bolts that hold the diff to the cradle should be tight; someone previously missed that memo. Now I need to source some new shims, and we should be good to refit. I measured the old ones, and will try to replicate the original stack, but I may need to tweak it myself as I don't know if these are right or not.
    2 points
  12. I did underside of Morris all black, and brakes and suspension guy kept saying wow someone’s run new brake lines under there! Did you know! Never seen someone do that!!!! he was a Barry tho, no mention of welds on chassis tho
    2 points
  13. Isn't something like this more appropriate?....
    2 points
  14. Swapped the points out for an accuspark electronic kit and a new bosch coil. Bugger me, she fired straight up.. Smooth as and the idle was higher, so clearly a much better spark. Now I need to get some headers for it then send it off to get tuned/needle swap
    2 points
  15. Moved on to the rear lights that sit in the lower rear valance. One of the old lenses had a really deep scuff mark in it so I figured it would be worthwhile replacing both sides with new lenses. Pulled the lens off and detached the lamp body from the valance and discovered another home made cork gasket. For some reason the left side rear brake light blows quite often so I thought I would try to figure out what is causing the issue while I have everything apart. The left back light is wired across to the right light and then the wires head off towards the switch mounted up front. Seems weird that only the left hand brake light blows. Might be something in the lamp body or a pinched wire running between the two lights. Will require more investigation. Thanks for reading.
    2 points
  16. Fitted the new lamp to body gaskets and the new rear indicator lenses and took the opportunity to mount the lamp housings correctly so that the lenses are correctly orientated. Looks heaps better. Amazing what a difference the little things make.
    2 points
  17. Kumeu was still pretty awesome. And I got the swap meet parts I actually needed to buy for once instead of buying random shit I didn't need. But fuck me it was hot! I'm way to ginger to be in the sun all day, think I got my years supply of vitamin D all in one day...
    2 points
  18. So hard not being at kumeu. Even if it’s “shit this year” it’s still kumeu. Gosh I love kumeu
    2 points
  19. @MightyJoe do it. I would rather look at a nice clean underbody than years of oil leaks.
    2 points
  20. So just before Xmas I got the old girl back from the panel shop. She's straight as and with very minimal filler. Decided to take her for a spin out to glenorcy after work. Really needs a 5/6speed.. Do any of you know some GCs that can make up a bell housing? I'd like to chuck in a mx5 or altezza 6 speed
    2 points
  21. Also. acid dipping ended up being 250 cash as it was 150mm to long for the tank so had to sit for some days then swap ends for a couple more. hot galv was 316.25 all up inc gst so $566.25 all up for the full treatment. That’s with me removing everything my self. not bad considering most coatings places wanted around 2K and that’s just a sand blast and spray 2K under seal. Where the sand blaster can’t reach they just spray cav wax, not actually removing and rust that’s formed. in saying that, it’s a lot of work to fully strip a chassis, but for a 4WD that gets driven through salt water it’s justified. Galv has formed well inside the chassis rails so I’m pretty happy with it
    2 points
  22. Hey guys, Might need to move this to a different category if it's wrong but anyway I'm chasing some wedding cars for 2 separate wedding later this year. Wedding 1: The first wedding is for my good mate. The date is for the Saturday the 26th of September. Looking for at least 2 cars, possibly 4 but it comes down to availability and costs to work with their budget. He is ideally after Australian Muscle, early Holdens in particular (e.g. kingswoods, premiers etc) but beggars can't be choosers so also the likes of old falcons, valiants or even American muscle. The venue is located in Clevedon, south east Auckland. would be approx 3 hours work, picking the groomsmen and bridesmaids up from different locations (close to venue) and driving to the venue. Possibly even waiting around for the ceremony to take pictures afterwards. Wedding 2: This is for my own wedding. The date is the 12th of December. Located in Mangawhai, about 3 hours as well. I'm only after 1 car, a tidy rotary, needs to be 4 doors to fit 4 girls and tidy but also ruckus, This will be paired with my 1300 so have to make sure it's completed this year haha. You will be picking up the bridesmaids from close by and taking them to the venue and maybe hang around for some photos after the ceremony if you like. Obviously you will be paid for your time and services. We will cover fuel and reasonable cash, beers, spirits as required. I know this is well in advance but a lot of planning is being done for both weddings haha. Please let me know if you or someone you know might be keen. Thanks in advance! Tai
    1 point
  23. Need an inline pcv and an air filter 1/2" lower to avoid potential issues with rubbing. But this is the plan for my vaccum source for the pcv.
    1 point
  24. We followed the plan,shade, BBQ and ice cold drinks were bloody great after wandering around for hours. I met a guy from the early holden club that I spoken to on the phone and even got some headlight trim rings off. Made it worth the trip.
    1 point
  25. I painted the underside of the van no worries, was green though. Also, pics of female friend
    1 point
  26. Hot metal glue gun action... Bolts are for pussy's!!! Functional, but far from sexy. That probably describes most kiwi woman...and this bracket falls into that category too. I'll get it chromed and it should disappear and not draw attention to itself.
    1 point
  27. Keen to do a nascar style flat exit under the sill..
    1 point
  28. Was really nervous that I might damage the paintwork getting it off, but a bit of gentle work with a plastic scraper and a bit of a polish and it came pretty clean. I didn't want to get too aggressive around the mounting holes for fear that the paint might lift, but its way better than it was.
    1 point
  29. As we were having morning smoko the rain started falling, so I saw it as a sign that I should move indoors and steal an hour or two on the Thames. Started off by removing the front indicator lights to install the new lamp to body gaskets. Turns out someone had made their own cork gaskets which was better than finding the lamp body mounted directly onto the paintwork. Installed the new body gaskets, re-fixed the lamp housings and installed the new lenses. I'd made a decision to go with amber lenses up front rather than the original clear lenses. First reason was to give the front a bit of colour as its pretty bland at the moment. Second reason is that I had heard that the clear lenses don't hold up in the harsh OZ sun as well as the amber ones. Sadly the new fixing screws and rubber sealing rings were inadvertently left out of my parcel so I had to use the old screws. Easy enough to replace when they arrive with my next shipment. Before and after pics to show the improvement. You can see how badly the clear lens had deteriorated. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  30. Been tidying shit up endlessly, trying to get the power steering pump not to leak etc. The only vaguely interesting thing I have done (and even then only slightly) is to make this gear knob out of a bit of my old piano that we smashed up. I talked to cert guy but he is not keen to come back to Nelson, this sucks a bit as it means I may have to ship it to Wellington to get it checked. This will be a pain if I need to do anything to it for the cert. In the meantime I will get it to a weighbridge and get a warrant check done, then wonder where the money will come from...
    1 point
  31. i have a female friend that got a shopping list of fails on her classic mini and she rang me up in tears because she couldn't afford the repairs, i took the job on for parts cost ( i know i'm an idiot) but there was nothing wrong with any of it. cunt was just trying his luck. i cleaned the brakes out ( drums all round), greased everything that was greaseable and took it to my guy with the previous fail sheet and the story, told him if he failed it i'd fix whatever he wanted. 2 hrs later he phoned me up and said ' no, you were right joe, thats just how they are'. it cost another $45 but was worth it in smug points. i fucking hate garages that rinse women on car stuff. /sharn sorry, i came here to ask something else.
    1 point
  32. Hey man, nice work. I'm following with interest and learning lots from this thread. Been searching for a way to avoid shitty Auckland traffic without selling my car. I'm keen to build one of these!
    1 point
  33. I got charged for having headlights adjusted while having wof done. I asked them why didn't they check the switch that raises or drops the beams,it was a Nissan taken to a Nissan dealership for wof ffs....they said no worries,I had to make a point of asking them to fix the problem they caused,and re reset the level to where they were in the first place. No clue.
    1 point
  34. Love how they’re both N# plates!
    1 point
  35. Attendance was better than last month - we had two oldschool cars, plus a bike and a 'modern' S14 Silvia. =) Sparkly filter adds ALL of the sparkles!
    1 point
  36. Try as might I couldn't get the speedo to work, then the rev counter started playing up too. I bought most of another cluster and swapped out the speedo but it was an earlier version and wouldn't work either. It was worth it tho for the complete front plastic bit, which was broken on mine. Apparently the clusters are a bit shit anyway so I started looking for aftermarket ones, this was fucking depressing, like $480 bux each for a Speedo and tach. I rang Young's automotive just to see what they could do but got the same story. Then the dude asked me to hang on and came back saying he had some old stock isspro gauges in mph that he could do for 200, fuck yea I said. Getting these to work was interesting, but once I had it sorted I cranked into the mounting. This was the problem, all the shitty tracks and plugs on the fpc right where I wanted to put the gauges; So after mounting the gauges I recreated the shit I needed for the other gauges and lights from some prototyping PCB board, kind of rough but within my capabilities; The gauges are smaller than the originals, but not too stupid looking. I got a plate laser cut to cover the too big holes and where the odometer was. Because the Speedo was in miles, and the odometer would also be in miles, I just calibrated it so the miles show as kilometers and used a black permanent marker to black out the shit that contradicted that lol. When I hooked it up half the lights didn't work and I thought I had fucked it up, but it turned out half the bulbs were blown, I replaced those and good to go. Not sure what happened there.. Good to go. I also got it hot to see if the fan cycled, it didn't and it turned out the fuse was blown as it was a bit small. I put in a bigger one and checked again today, all works as expected. The rad must be effective cos the fan runs for 30 sec then takes 5 mins to start up again when sitting there idling. I also put a manual switch in there just in case. The power steering is leaking but this is just an o ring issue, I will sort that next.
    1 point
  37. Originally was going to do twin supertraps each side but having them hugging the frame at the angle I wanted just wasn’t working for the chain side. So scratched that idea and went 2 into 1. Used 38mm mild steel donuts and U bends to shape the exhaust. Mig welded it all together, gave them a couple coats of header paint then wrapped them in titanium header wrap.
    1 point
  38. Picked up some acid etch. $58 for a 2L kit. Sprays super thin. was hot today so just started with light coat from front to rear, then straight back to front again and kept doing that till it was all used up. Left it looking pretty blinging! started on the 2K black where the gun packed up. Only spraying like an air brush it took hours to get one coat. Then the needle seal gave out and started spraying paint out the top of the trigger covering me. Continued on as I was already to far gone. Had about 80% done where it then decided to work properly, did a couple strokes and let off the trigger and it stayed on full tit so I just kept going and did a whole pot in one go without the trigger coming unstuck. What a fucking disaster! Least it’s had a full coat. And my mate that’s an actual car painter said he’ll head over and sort it for me haha fuck my life
    1 point
  39. Time to get the taps out.. picked up my air comp from a mate so I’ll hopefully spray it at some point over the next week
    1 point
  40. Big update mostly about clearances. Firstly the Supertrapp reps turned up and wow are they mint! Did a test fit and fired it up which sounded great, stoked!!! Now clearances, looking at a lot of other CB350 builds I always wondered why they added aftermarket headers. With the rearsets I realise that the factory exhaust sits too high so the brake leaver hits the muffler. Also the kick start hits the rearsets too, bit of a cluster really. Gave it a quick tune with the glass plugs, found the 70 idle jet ran too rich so swapped it out for a 68 which helped when tuning with the Air/Fuel mixture screw. Also added in the blue titanium hose clamps round the carbs, kind dig it kinda don’t, they are quite wide so they don’t quite fit. Can see them in this pic. The push button controls turned up for the handle bars too; again quality and feel is immaculate so far, they also did a perfect job of setting up the buttons as some were momentary and others were push on/off. Test fitted them to check and happy with the fit/clearance. I’ll thread the wiring properly down through the handle bars eventually. Realistically this bike won’t be ready for the DGR ride on Sunday so the CB250k is hitting the ride again this year with the DGR headlight stickers to support men’s mental health. Lastly found the winged Honda badges I brought ages ago to stick on the CB350. Factory colour is to fill them in white but I reckon black could be the go. Thanks for looking!
    1 point
  41. Carried on with the wiring, cleaning up all the old connections and added in modern plugs. Added in a regulator/rectifier to replace the old Honda ones. Drilled holes in the underside of the clip on bars to feed the wires out and down into the headlight. Trying to keep the wiring tidy with some going through the centre of the frame. Had my other Honda round to compare factory spec to cafe spec.
    1 point
  42. conclusion: bmw throttles make no more power. injectors in bmw throttle instead of head, no change. have revised throttle linkage setup. still not as good as the setup on the 20v throttles, but a whole lot better But have gone with this setup as it heat soaks less. both the throttles and the fuel rail are isolated from the head, with a thermal gasket and 25mm bit of plastic. should be bit more consistent, since hot air and fuel suck Also found that cylinder 1 was running a touch leaner than the rest, after checking afr per cylinder. so have added a fuel trim to add a bit more fuel on cyl 1,
    1 point
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