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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/18/20 in all areas

  1. Loving driving the old girl around she goes really well. Gets up and moves! Gave it a going over with some extra cut polish and has made a big difference seeing the last time I gave her a clean was almost 9 years ago. Will be doing an oil change soon it has done around 300km on the running in oil so far. Currently looking for some wider wheels and better tyres the 155s can get a bit hairy up around 100km/h!
    6 points
  2. Swapped the points out for an accuspark electronic kit and a new bosch coil. Bugger me, she fired straight up.. Smooth as and the idle was higher, so clearly a much better spark. Now I need to get some headers for it then send it off to get tuned/needle swap
    5 points
  3. Was able to get some time in the shed last week so got those extra layers of glass down on the pan. There's about 6 layers on with a mix of 200g and 300g matting so should be plenty strong enough. Got out there today and cut it into to shape I wanted. Ruff cut it first. Final cut and sanded edges. Chose to have it roll over top only slightly so should hug the frame nicely even when the vinyl is on but leave most of the frame exposed . Also chose to go up the tank abit so itll have a nice transition into the seat. And lastly I found I was able to reuse the original Suzuki seat tongue (I dont know what it's really called) to locate the front under the tank, slips in nicely. Next job will be to add a tab at the back to lock it down and also two other tabs on the sides to attach the indicators. Then I can paint the frame and get on the hunt for some comfy foam to use
    5 points
  4. Been tidying shit up endlessly, trying to get the power steering pump not to leak etc. The only vaguely interesting thing I have done (and even then only slightly) is to make this gear knob out of a bit of my old piano that we smashed up. I talked to cert guy but he is not keen to come back to Nelson, this sucks a bit as it means I may have to ship it to Wellington to get it checked. This will be a pain if I need to do anything to it for the cert. In the meantime I will get it to a weighbridge and get a warrant check done, then wonder where the money will come from...
    4 points
  5. i have a female friend that got a shopping list of fails on her classic mini and she rang me up in tears because she couldn't afford the repairs, i took the job on for parts cost ( i know i'm an idiot) but there was nothing wrong with any of it. cunt was just trying his luck. i cleaned the brakes out ( drums all round), greased everything that was greaseable and took it to my guy with the previous fail sheet and the story, told him if he failed it i'd fix whatever he wanted. 2 hrs later he phoned me up and said ' no, you were right joe, thats just how they are'. it cost another $45 but was worth it in smug points. i fucking hate garages that rinse women on car stuff. /sharn sorry, i came here to ask something else.
    4 points
  6. So just before Xmas I got the old girl back from the panel shop. She's straight as and with very minimal filler. Decided to take her for a spin out to glenorcy after work. Really needs a 5/6speed.. Do any of you know some GCs that can make up a bell housing? I'd like to chuck in a mx5 or altezza 6 speed
    4 points
  7. Great couple of days in Cromwell had a blast on the cruise friday night and had an awesome day baking in the sun looking at some amazing cars today, cant wait for next year definately one of the best shows around these ways. Good news the lip on the skyline survived some big scrapes and plenty of close moments. Cheers @kiwi808 for the car wash and organising our small group of jappas to park up together.
    3 points
  8. Fitted the new lamp to body gaskets and the new rear indicator lenses and took the opportunity to mount the lamp housings correctly so that the lenses are correctly orientated. Looks heaps better. Amazing what a difference the little things make.
    3 points
  9. Well, the momentum got a little lost unfortunately, life got in the way for a wee bit. Managed to get a couple more things done though. One good step forward, but also a couple of annoying steps back. First, the backward steps; my modified dizzy cam trigger idea would work, but it really crowds the area where I need to build the thermostat housing. Not impossible, but just really annoying. Dad was around the other day and we were talking shit and he noticed a little nubbin sticking out of the factory cam... So I think I'll make something up to use that as the trigger tooth. A mount that uses the cam tower bolts. This means that I'll have wiring inside the rocker cover, which gives me pause for thought... But motorsport wiring is something I've got a lot of experience with, and I'm confident I can make it reliable :-). A GS1005 sensor, booted and potted, with DR25 sheathed M22759/32 wiring and It should stand the test of time. I'll make up a custom half-moon seal for the back of the head for the wiring to exit out of. The other step back was also trigger related. I've got a Link ECU for this, and it clearly says in their doc that the crank trigger wheel needs to have a number of teeth that divides into 360 with no remainder... Damn integer math! The SOHC balance shaft sprockets have 32 teeth, so that's not going to work :-(. This is a pretty easy fix really, I just need to machine up a replacement for the sprocket that has a number of teeth that divides in 360... I modeled up a replacement with 12 teeth and printed a test to make sure it would clear everything, its all good. I've shamelessly ripped this off from the kiggly racing trigger kit, but its like $400 to get one of those landed and I'm just not keen to open the wallet to that extent on this thing. I've gone with 12 teeth, dictated by the tooling I've got on hand to make the cuts, hah. Although now that I think of it, we've just had a new EDM wirecutter turn up at work, if I waited a few months I could do any number of teeth I want on that... Ahhh future me's problem. 12 tooth is a little coarser that I'd like with a 272 cam, but all it will mean is a little bit of timing jitter at idle. I'll tell myself it'll just make it lope a bit more at idle and I'll look cool at the lights. Yeah, sure. Right on to the win! I got the coil mount I designed up profile cut and bent it up, and golly gosh, it actually fits! There is something uniquely satisfying in seeing something you've only designed in CAD as a physical object in the real world. I need to get the right fasteners for it, and I think i'll paint it wrinkle black, as that's what the rocker cover will be (with polished lettering of course, because 80's). I'd love to get rid of the ECI-Multi on top of the inlet manifold, because the text is around the wrong way and it drives the OCD nuts, but I cant think of a tidy way to do it... Any ideas out there? I bent it up on a combination of a press-brake and a big finger folder. It needs mild persuasion to get the bolts in place, but really only half a mm or so, which I think is pretty decent for a 3mm sheet metal part with those angles. What I really should do is spend some time calibrating my fusion360 sheetmetal profiles to the tools I have available. Maybe next week? Probably not. I can start on the pattern for the wiring harness now the coils are mounted, that will be another great job to get ticked off. I'll be building it out of offcuts and what not, but will keep it nice and tidy, Fun times :-). Hope this post made sense, I'm 4 ciders deep and waiting for pizza for dinner. Hmmmmmmm Pizza.
    3 points
  10. painted some things black. booster, hood stay, windscreen wiper motor housing and hood latch. just the normal shit really. now thats done i will probably start working on the new engine loom. ive got new plugs for everything and new link looms so the motor will get a full rewire. 2020-01-17_05-53-42 by sheepers, on Flickr
    3 points
  11. well, that was fucking stressful. first time ever laying a candy/3 coat colour and it so very nearly went very very wrong. i completely fluked it and managed to get it looking right but i was seconds away from disaster on more than one occasion. im fucking turbo stoked with how it looks, its got some dust in it but i couldn't give a fuck, theres way more right than there is wrong and thats a fucking win. 2020-01-09_06-20-37 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-10_07-39-39 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-10_07-39-48 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-10_07-39-58 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-10_07-40-05 by sheepers, on Flickr
    3 points
  12. Late to the party but here's the Leadfoot thread That time of year again so save the dates, book your sick leave, and book accommodation early as it always sells out! Leadfoot Festival 8th and 9th February 2020 280 Link Road, Hahei 3591, somewhere just outside of Whitianga but really just in the middle of nowhere Same details as every other year. 1 mile hillclimb event which brings in some of the best drivers from over the world, a few sponsors with some cars, and thousands of people. And also the carpark gets pretty full so bring your OS car for reserved parking (let's face it, this reserved parking area is probably the main attraction).
    2 points
  13. Hey guys, Might need to move this to a different category if it's wrong but anyway I'm chasing some wedding cars for 2 separate wedding later this year. Wedding 1: The first wedding is for my good mate. The date is for the Saturday the 26th of September. Looking for at least 2 cars, possibly 4 but it comes down to availability and costs to work with their budget. He is ideally after Australian Muscle, early Holdens in particular (e.g. kingswoods, premiers etc) but beggars can't be choosers so also the likes of old falcons, valiants or even American muscle. The venue is located in Clevedon, south east Auckland. would be approx 3 hours work, picking the groomsmen and bridesmaids up from different locations (close to venue) and driving to the venue. Possibly even waiting around for the ceremony to take pictures afterwards. Wedding 2: This is for my own wedding. The date is the 12th of December. Located in Mangawhai, about 3 hours as well. I'm only after 1 car, a tidy rotary, needs to be 4 doors to fit 4 girls and tidy but also ruckus, This will be paired with my 1300 so have to make sure it's completed this year haha. You will be picking up the bridesmaids from close by and taking them to the venue and maybe hang around for some photos after the ceremony if you like. Obviously you will be paid for your time and services. We will cover fuel and reasonable cash, beers, spirits as required. I know this is well in advance but a lot of planning is being done for both weddings haha. Please let me know if you or someone you know might be keen. Thanks in advance! Tai
    2 points
  14. Yeah it’s good in the daylight, I wanted to see what the motogadget looked like in the sun and it was mint too. I’ll get a pic and post it tomorrow in the sun. Had it running again after all the wiring was done. Sounds ok currently, definitely want to pack out the muffler with more baffle to get the deeper tone. Also need to sort out this headlight bracket, it’s too big for the bike so I’m after a shorter one to pull the headlight back into the frame more. And lower the front a bit.
    2 points
  15. Moved on to the rear lights that sit in the lower rear valance. One of the old lenses had a really deep scuff mark in it so I figured it would be worthwhile replacing both sides with new lenses. Pulled the lens off and detached the lamp body from the valance and discovered another home made cork gasket. For some reason the left side rear brake light blows quite often so I thought I would try to figure out what is causing the issue while I have everything apart. The left back light is wired across to the right light and then the wires head off towards the switch mounted up front. Seems weird that only the left hand brake light blows. Might be something in the lamp body or a pinched wire running between the two lights. Will require more investigation. Thanks for reading.
    2 points
  16. Not having a good time. Probably should have sorted the subframe before shopping for tyres. May reluctantly end up running 7 inch rear and 7.5 inch front to get through cert.
    2 points
  17. Certed, dyno on next couple of weeks. Ongoing trans issues, I have been working hard at trying to get my head around the issue with a 2 3 shift that is fine at wot but is arse at part throttle. If anyone knows any 6 speed gm trans expert tuners, please pass on details...
    2 points
  18. Making the trek up from the south for this, quite excited to see what all the fuss is about
    2 points
  19. If the hose is fibre reinforced (the little stringy bits that hang out of the cut faces) then remoulding will be near impossible.
    2 points
  20. https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-service/cooling/hoses-radiator-coolant/unicoil-hose-spring/p/A1272327 These work well at stopping the hose from folding. They come in different sizes.
    2 points
  21. Camber modded f series subframe back from sandblast and powdercoating. Facelift gx61 unless they're factory twin can come with a smaller 6.7" t series diff. To upgrade you just need the crossmember and diff. The rest is interchangeable
    2 points
  22. I've had a few from repco do the same, no refunds on electronic goods..... Dicks
    1 point
  23. Can you make the line out of steel and use wee silicone or rubber joiners at each end? Or go for a walk around pick a part/zebra for a hose the right shape.
    1 point
  24. Tomorrow! Weather is mint. Theres a bunch of cafes across from the entrance at 'the goodside' so park up and grab a bite/drink. See yas there!
    1 point
  25. Pre-WOF-Recheck shakedown complete. Goes hard g. Recheck on Saturday, and then I should be good for some less risky motoring. Will be good to be legal for British Car Day in Feb.
    1 point
  26. And they have a baking comp this year so that’s a another 25% less cars
    1 point
  27. I got charged for having headlights adjusted while having wof done. I asked them why didn't they check the switch that raises or drops the beams,it was a Nissan taken to a Nissan dealership for wof ffs....they said no worries,I had to make a point of asking them to fix the problem they caused,and re reset the level to where they were in the first place. No clue.
    1 point
  28. If my car fails a WOF do I have to take it back to the original inspection place. Can I go to another place and get it reinspected within the 28 day repair period. Beware ranting ahead my wife's car ended up at the the dealers for a gearbox issue. While it was there they gave it a warrant check without asking me, and it failed on some stuff (light bulbs blown) that I would have found and fixed before it was taken to the usual spot. This pissed me off because it was booked into the local guy who is 10 mins walk away and typically rechecks take 5 mins plus paper work. The recheck, including driving to the dealer, waiting around and driving home killed the best part of 2 hours. I did spit the dummy about doing the WOF without asking so got it for free but would have much preferred to have paid the money and got 2 hours of my life back. I had it in my head that because it failed that I had to go back to where the check was done or wait until 28 days is up.
    1 point
  29. Been working on the wiring. Everything is working as it should except the indicator unit. Hondas actually use a 3 pin relay and I’m trying to use a 2 pin one, no idea why a 2 pin wouldn’t work but I’ll pick a 3 pin up to try tonight. Those AliExpress handle bar buttons are legit, really nice buttons with a mix of momentary and latch style buttons. The motogadget mini sensor still needs to be wired in but the display lit up all nice. Hooked up the starter motor solenoid which spun up when I hit the starter motor but didn’t crank the motor over. Need to check the engagement rollers on the crank as I suspect they aren’t there. Getting close now!!
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. Having more load space than passenger it would always have been registered NA.
    1 point
  32. I found if you cut open a Fram G12 in-line fuel filter you can jam it in your sedanent glass
    1 point
  33. If it fits in a boot I can help you, but it is drop at bro repairs can one of those guys grab it for you?
    1 point
  34. This is what was floating around the valley of my motor: The 3x little chunks were lose inside the valley under the inlet manifold. The larger "seal" was just flopping around on top, in the hole pictured in the above post. No wonder it was leaking oil eh! This part will replace all that shittyness. Its held down by a through bolt (this isn't the bolt I'll actually use, so stand down internet warriors). There's already a threaded hole for it in the block, left from the origonal down draft tube that's supposed to be there...very convenient, so that's what it will bolt down on and then the o-ring creates the seal.
    1 point
  35. A guy on facebook was giving away some motors and parts, after finishing his project. Drove over to Greymouth to collect them. Now got 4 parts motors, so should hopefully have enough good bits when it comes to building a motor for it. Finished stripping the engine bay, removed suspension and cross member. I have made a start removing the underseal from the guards, only been finding some light surface rust so far. Will continue removing the undereseal and make a start bare metalling the engine bay next.
    1 point
  36. Intercooler pipes mostly done. Need to sort a bov and tidy/paint them Also sorted a water pump pulley and crank pulley combo- these I had bought ages ago as a box of parts off a marine engine which never fitted anything so had to modify a few things, now I can mount the alternator on the front of the lh head which is opposite to how they usually are
    1 point
  37. At a WOF re-check the inspector only checks the failed items BUT must fail any new things if they see them, so get it fixed.
    1 point
  38. That is not factory tint. Looks pretty dark.
    1 point
  39. If it is a factory tint it is ok. It will have “AS3” on the safety mark. If it is a film it won’t be factory.
    1 point
  40. Whilst digging around the internet a few months back I came across a listing for my Thames dated around the end of 2010. This was just before the PO bought it and embarked on the bare metal restoration. At that stage the van was still in its original blue paintwork with heaps of patina. The wording for the listing is in pdf format so I'm unable to upload it, but it makes for interesting reading so I'll transcribe it into a posting when I get a chance. In the mean time here are some pics of the van as it looked back in 2010.
    1 point
  41. The van furthest away in the pic has the motor and gearbox still fitted. The gearbox is a 5 speed column shift that looks like it has had a rattle can reco. The engine is a 4Y that according to the previous owner has been reconditioned. Both engine and gearbox are bolted up in the hole, but nothing else has been connected up. On the gearbox side of things the linkages are there but not connected, the drive shaft is sitting in the back of the van and the clutch slave cylinder is missing. The speedo drive is also AWOL with the speedo cable just hanging in space. On the engine side the radiator and exhaust are sitting in the back of the van and most of the electrical wiring and fuel pipes are all disconnected. So looks like previous owner lost interest mid job. Makes for an interesting time ahead for me. Anyhow I got today off as we are in limbo at the moment waiting a visit from the building inspector before we can carry on with the house, so thought I would spend a few hours trying to get the donor van running. Managed to find and connect up the wiring on the starter motor and the coil and fiddled around with the connections on the distributor until I successfully got spark at the points. Not getting spark at the plugs yet, but hoping to get some time on it tomorrow. First prize would be to get the engine running to assess it's condition. Thanks for reading.
    1 point
  42. Yikes time flies. Can't believe its almost 10 months since my last post. Our house reno has taken up all of my free time this year, but I did manage to spend some time thinking about the direction I want to take on mechanical upgrades for the old Thames in between and also did a bit of pesting on the tech forum seeking some advice from those more knowledgeable than I am. Result is that I have kind of set my mind on going with some form of Toyota running gear to replace the rather dated original kit. Main reason for this is that the engine box has very limited space so I will need to stick with a non cross flow motor if I want to keep the floor pan stock. Also first prize would be to retain a column shift but go for a 5 speed gearbox. With this in mind I set a target on a mid '80s Toyota HiAce van as these came out with a 5 speed column shift manual box. As luck would have it back in march I tracked down a 5 speed column shift gearbox. Only snag was that the seller wouldn't sell the gearbox on it's own, so I had to take the whole van. To make matters more interesting he offered me a second spares van for free if I took it away. So I ended up with these two beauties sitting in our back garden.
    1 point
  43. kinda boring update. hadn't changed the thermostat forever, so thought would try a lower temp one. seen on engine masters they made some more power running cooler water temps, so cant hurt to try.. new one is meant to be 68 degrees. but seems like more like 76 degrees. the stock Toyota one is 82deg and sits bang on that under normal conditions So yep, robbed. as you would expect no change in power, with only a 6 degree difference in water temp. but did confirm what have been seeing with oil temps; 20deg more oil temp is consistently another 3-4kw. that's going from 80deg to 100deg. faster engine is spinning more gains. in other news, some time ago i put a china alternator on it, because cheap. have been fighting broken bolts and alternator brackets for awhile. which i assumed was my crappy bracket that i made too lightweight. turns out old mate was on his 2min lunch break and this alternator skipped the balancing stop on the production line. spinning it up with my impact driver which maybe spins at 2000rpm it wanted to jump out of your hand. so yeh at 20k rpm... note windings held together with string
    1 point
  44. Bonus images. Big thanks to these guys Kieran, stan and the other boys for the endless pumping of the brake pedal.
    1 point
  45. Previous owner provided me with a few snaps taken of the van after it had been blasted. Apologies for the grainy quality. The body was amazingly solid for an old British van. Zero rust holes and just a patch of bog in the back door from a previous repair. The bog was removed and the door was beaten back into shape.
    1 point
  46. This bit.. "Cant fucking believe it... I just made a computer and so far all the smoke is still inside it somewhere!" Yeah it's a cool feeling. Such a neat thing to start with a bag of bits and send up with a working ecu. Building your car, not buying it. Great way to learn how the thing works too. Did you end up going to see Stuart? Top fella him. Helpful as.
    1 point
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