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Thought I had better set up the crane, it's come up good; Should do the trick.

Last update for 2019 I got annoyed at my brain going around in circles about intercooling, between water to air, air to air, or doing water meth injection. Spent waaay too much time reading stuff on the internet I'd actually bought most of the stuff to do W2A but it adds a lot of weight and more stuff to do A2A means I lose the bonnet catch so I'll have to put up with 1x dick punch from @RUNAMUCK due to bonnet pins Water/meth is the easiest route but so much conflicting information on whether it works well or not plus the unit I was looking at was $800 So to stop going around in circles any more I stopped thinking about it and attacked the front with a cut off wheel and a hole saw Got some piping mocked up and the warm side, which was the side that looked like it was going to be difficult, is pretty easy using piping I cut up that was on the vg

Finally got a chance to take this on a real drive. 50km round trip this morning, out to governors bay hotel for a coffee and some wedges and back through lyttleton and through the tunnel back towards home. The drive was awesome and the car performed beautifully. Only issue was the steering doesn't want to return to centre very well, probably just an alighnment needed but will check over the uni joints and the rack. Wasn't pushing it hard at all because it's very early days, but it seemed far far too easy to keep up with normal cars through the hills, I suspect it just eats the road up better than anything I've ever driven.

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Have been working on this a bit in the holidays, getting the inlet manifold work done. I've thought a couple of times that I should have just bitten the bullet and made an inlet manifold from scratch, with the amount of work it is to get this one sorted properly for a RWD application... But I'm this far in, so I'll finish it off. Most obvious jobs are to swap the throttlebody onto the other end of the plenum, and reroute the coolant setup. I've seen a few RWD setups with this manifold where the thermostat housing is left where it is and a hose is run to the front of the engine, but as this is a RWD head the waterjacket inlets in the head are setup for the coolant to flow out of the front of the head. Leaving it like it is, with it at the back, risks a hot-spot in the front of the head. The factory Starion setup has the radiator bypass from beneath the thermostat (which is at the front of the head) pass through the inlet manifold to keep it warm. This helps with the fuel film problem TBI setups suffer from as you've got so much area for the fuel to pool onto. As I'm all about the port injection now, I don't need that, but there still needs to be a radiator bypass, so I'll run that from beneath the thermostat housing (which I'll need to make) down the middle of the inlet manifold to the factory return pipe that runs along the back and side of the block into the waterpump. This factory pipe also has an inlet on it for the coolant return from the heater core. Lots of hacksawing, angle grinding, flap wheeling and powerfiling later it's looking pretty tidy back there. I'll need to weld a block on there which has a port to supply the heater core, but that'd the only fitting I should need there. I might put the ECT sensor there too, as it'll be out of the way. Hacked off the throttlebody flange and tidied it all up to make a plate to weld in place to seal it off. While I had all the power tools out and was making a mess anyway, I hack off all the little backets and bits and pieces I wont be using. Heaps more power filing later and it's all cleaned up. Found a good spot underneath where there is about 10mm of wall thickness to drill and tap to 1/8NPT for the IAT sensor. Sensor is a delphi unit with a DTM 2-pin connector. Has a brass body where it seals to the plenum, but a plastic housing after that with an exposed tip. Should be nice and fast reacting for the temp swings turbo's produce, and not suffer too badly from heat-soak (I hope!). Should be pretty out of the way down there. That space is going to be quite tightly packed though, with the radiator bypass tube, and the outlet from the fuel rail back to the pressure regulator running through there also. Plus, the wiring harness. It'll have quite a bit going on in this space. 4 injectors, 4 coils, ECT, IAT, MAP, EFP , Crank + Cam triggers and Ethrottle all within that area. Will be a fun harness to build :-). The injectors (also ones I've had for years) are EVO VII 560cc's. They've had single spray pintle caps put on them to work better with an 8V setup, and so I can orient them like in the picture with the plugs heading underneath, instead of directly on top. The reason for this is because of where I'm going to mount the coils. Pretty simple 3mm aluminium sheet metal backet picking up of existing mounting holes. Will get it profile cut and bend it up at work. Has mounting for the MAP sensor underneath also. Coils are knockoff GM581's, which I've not used before, but should hopefully be up to the task. I could only buy a pack of 8 of them, so I've got 4 spares, hah. It's bloody humid today, so we're off to the beach for some FnC for dinner and a bit of a swim.

I started to strip the turbo and nothing really looked wrong, so I thought fuck it and bolted it back together. So far it seems pretty sweet. The actuator pops at 15psi, although I don't actually know what it will boost to, one of the jobs is to fit a gauge to monitor it. It has a pretty loud whistle so I can hear it spooling up from 1500rpm or so, @Mof pointed out that it may have a boost leak so I have replaced the gasket into the manifold with a rubbery one as this is pretty much the only place it could leak, so next time I drive it I will see how that goes. I don't think I have had it over 3000rpm yet because of the noise. It will be interesting to see how it goes at the top end, but even if there is nothing major there I can't see it being a problem as the mid range torque feels really strong.

We did some stuff with this today, one of the boys videoed it. This was the third lump we pulled out like this, works well, saved a lot of effort.

Been having hot start issues with the engine, worst of all being random which hampered troubleshooting. I also didn't bother refitting the fan when the engine was out as i've often wondered how much effect it gives without a cowl and so far back, unfortunately it draws sufficient air to keep the engine cool at idle so leaving the car running for short stops was not an option. (Must re-fit...) Keeping to my usual mantra of when it seems like the carburettors are playing up its the ignition I started swapping out bits that I could. Given the brand of the coil I was left unsure of the results, resistance to start hot was still present, or do I have two faulty coils? This game carried on with all major components including stripping and checking the distributor to no avail. Just maybe it is fuel this time? Fitting the wideband straight away gave the answer, massively lean at idle..... Quick spray of butane found the leak point and left me quite impressed that the drivability was not noticeably worse. Remove carbs, clean, check refit + new gasket. Aaaaaaaaand its back to life, solid idle just on the rich side of 14.7 to aid starting. Now on summer break I have plans for some trips away, one task on my list that remains unchecked is to drop the steering box and inspect. This is where the personality of the Niva starts to come out.. I have been unenthusiastic about this task due to all the nasty hidden bolts and knocking off ball joints etc, took a solid 4 hours to get the box out along with almost everything else on that side of the motor, as painful as it is to remove half the engine bay to access one part, i'm quite glad its not modern Japanese and I can fit my hands and spanners where they need to be! Once again inspection found trouble, grittiness in the box was due to pitting/chipping in the gears, quite likely from rough treatment prior to purchasing joint pullers..... Not wanting to put that box back in, I pulled out a spare, being of unknown quality I decided to strip it down first, what a fun mistake that was! Only seal I really cared about was the lower one, carefully hidden under the pitman arm, initially I hooked up my 2 jaw puller but it just didn't like the shape falling off with only moderate load, at 17:20 I had enough and headed down to Repco and brought a pitman arm puller, as they closed for the day, even with greased up threads I couldn't budge the darn thing, stern words were muttered and I left it for the night retreating inside for tea. After a second prolonged struggle using various combinations of tools, percussion and finally the purchase of a gas torch, the arm relented, clean-inspect-reassemble resulted in one new condition steering box. Lovely clean looking steering box too, and possibly the most expensive maintenance item for some time! Only a few short hours will have the Niva back on the road...... except for NY hangover, just lifting tools is bit of a challenge right now, hence i'm writing about fixing rather than actual fixing!

Head on with new gasket and torqued down. All degreased and cleaned. Primed last night and top coated this evening. Roll on the new year !

See my sight glasses.... I also got an Aloris style wedge type tool post from EBay USA. It came with 7 holders. I thought it was a lot of money.... then shipping and unspecified "duty and taxes" got added, which doubled the price. So I'd been trying to think of an excuse to buy a 3HP motor to upgrade the 2.2HP motor. The 2.2HP had a noisy centrifugal switch.... The 3HP motor arrived this afternoon. After removing the 2.2 and finding it really hot, I realised the centrifugal switch was stuck on.... so the starting capacitor was always connected. The 3HP is wired up now, it's much quieter. It was getting late...I still need to align the pulley and I want to see if I can find matching belts as they are slightly different lengths.

I lightly sanded some of the machined surfaces with 400 grit to get the rest of the black off. It opens and closes smooth as now. It had to force it in some spots when I took it apart.

So I got this. It was so close to home, only 3.6km, I just had to click buy now. I got the local towie with his HIAB to pick it up and move it. It took ~1.5 hours. $120. We had to do a bit of manual handling because the truck could not get close enough and the crane boom was too high to fit in the garage door. At the pickup, the old fulla used/abused his engine crane to get it to the door. Then used the hiab to drag it over some bits of ply so it was close enough to lift. At my place, ideally he needed to park across my garage door.... but the driveway doesn't really let you do that. So we ended up with this compromise. My garage door is 3m, but the crane only barely could get under it. We got the headstock in, and placed it on some 25mm round bar. Then picked up the tailstock end and got it just in the door. Once it was in, I found it was pretty easy to roll on the bars. I took some size comparison photos to compare with the myford. And "What's behind the SCARY DOOR"? Buuuuuhhhh... Obviously it's 3 phase. It came with a motor, that was not installed, because he was going to install a different one. I'm going to see how I go with a 2.2HP single phase motor. I'll just wire it independently... But back to the scary door. It was sealed closed with some old as silicone. The black cable is the 3 phase feed. The white cable goes to two limit switches on two of the feed screws. The cabling to the motor comes out from behind this lot. The thing in the middle appears to be newer than everything else. As far as I can tell, it's an anti tamper breaker/switch, I believe the door presses down on the white bit when it's closed. That box to the right.... no fucking idea. Those three round things on the left... uuuh, fuses maybe?? There are two big rotary switches. Not sure what both do. I assume one makes the motor go. The other could be reverse maybe? They have no names, just 1 and 0. And a transformer. But why?? I've found fuck all documentation. I'm not even sure what the model is. They don't seem to have model numbers on their lathes. I suspect it might be a version of the M0 model.

So I went and found the absolute most polar opposite vehicle to something oldschool If mods think this is a boring daily feel free to delete. My now 1 month old Tesla Model 3 Standard Range +. I have been a Tesla fan for many many years and it has been a long term goal to own one. So this is the new daily. All I can say is what an absolutely phenomenal vehicle. All you need to do is drive one of these and you will be sold. I am still into oldschool so dont get me wrong but man, these cars are really next level. Thought I would throw a post up as probably a bit out of the ordinary for oldschool haha. Anyone got an oldschool sticker for the back window ha? Here it is on its maiden voyage down south from Auckland:

That’s choice.

All certed reg wof as of the end of July. Needs a WOf end of Jan haha. Man they come around fast. reunion in a month and a bit so game on

@rivalrx thanks mate! it was good to get those bits tidied up, they had always bugged me. hopefully get a bit of motivation now to chip away at the last 10% of the project to finish it off, hows the coupe coming along? did you get your certification?

So... something like 12 years ago I bought my vice 2nd hand. I was missing one of the jaws. Buying or making a replacement jaw should be straight forward.... right? I never found anything off the shelf that was the right size. Probably because the vice is polish. Since then I made do with only the one jaw... After a few years, the one jaw broke... But I continued to make do. Finally, yesterday I decided that the tools and materials I have, had reached critical mass and making replacement jaws was achievable. The old broken jaw... The 50X50 aluminium bar I chiselled it out of. It took a REALLY LONG time to saw this. My bandsaw doesn't really go fast enough for aluminium and the only blade I have is like 18tpi and kinda blunt. The mess I made. This is the first actual thing I have milled since I got it. I had only really used it for drilling. I used the 50mm face mill for the big flat bits and 12mm 4 flute for the ends and some of the surfaces. I destroyed one 12mm end mill when I discovered that it doesn't handle climb milling with the quill extended quite far. Chipped all the points off the end. Oops. I didn't have an end mill large enough to countersink the socket screws, so had to use a 14mm drill. And the finished jaws. The originals were 12mm thick. These are about 20mm. I guess if they get all gouged up I have enough meat there to mill them flat again. It took surprisingly long to make these. About 4 hours.

Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Welding up the pie cuts along the floorpan edges. Making reproduction nutplates. More fit checks. Getting closer to completion. Some little things. I used Teks and temp fastened the underside support to conform the floor shape more accurately. And backing up a little bit from the thread post where I fully trimmed the flanges, I needed to first weld up some gaps. There's seven bends in contour along the fore and aft direction. That results in 14 pie cuts along the edges to be cleaned up and welded. Not so much on the outboard flange against the sill since these will be lap joints against a flat inner sill, but required along the curves of the trans tunnel edges. I'm keeping my options open to butt weld or lap weld against the tunnel. I back up the wide pie cut openings with copper from a split and flattened pipe. The blue line marks the extent that needs to be filled, the remainder I expect will be trimmed away. This one was kinda ugly. I just grind the excess away later. This one was a little easier to fill. I ground the welds and then, after final trimming (described earlier), did yet another mock fit with the floorpan below The fit is looking awesome! Almost pro maybe, but I have nothing from the internet to compare it to. Then I built some tiny reproductions out of 20 gauge sheet to look exactly the same as the original floating nut plates that get welded to the underfloor and support the inboard bracket of the parking brake. The 5/16 - 24 square nuts are extracted from some much larger purchased repo GM nut plates and inserted into my much smaller Nissan look alike single tab repros. Next post will be cleaning, preparation and epoxy priming the soon to be permanently welded closed cavities on the underside of the floorpan. And then followed by welding on ten or so parts. More posts soon… Discussion:

Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Making the factory indents and body mount depressions. Pounding and beating in miscellaneous factory indentation features. Started by making these upper and lower forming dies from plywood. Goal and result is as shown. The dies are clamped in place and a piece of PVC pipe is laid inside for cushioning. Then an appropriate sized long socket wrench is inserted and beat on. The plastic pipe segment fatigues and breaks apart a few times and I just cut out some fresh ones and finish the job. Not a perfect result but acceptable. I know just about everything on the floorpan will be detectable as handmade, but only upon close inspection. Just trying my best here! Moving on to the body bolt mount depressions. Similar concept with two dies, very big hammers and a large 3/4 drive socket wrench. I found the upper die and plastic cushion unnecessary however. top side bottom side Fit checks and mock up continue above and underneath as progress is made. More posts soon… Discussion:

Legal! So stoked. A tentative 2 months rego incase it all goes sideways haha.

A couple months ago this got featured in the NZV8 magazine. @Snoozin did a wonderful job! Got sick of the doors not shutting correctly. Had my parent's bring back some Altman latches from the US on one of their trips over. Relatively simple to install, but modified a few things so they work a bit nicer and installed some electric solenoids. Need to sort some more door seals as these ones leave some large gaps in places. The final thing that needed doing to "finish" it off finally got done! Mark Dunn in Levin did an awesome job on the upholstery. We made new plywood seat bases and he built up foam for the seat. We made it thinner than the factory one, so I could sit a bit lower and further back. The seats are also way softer now! Some random pics from the past couple of months. At some stage I also swapped out the fog lights for the grill guard, as they weren't mounted that great and were cracking the bumper panel. Will modify them and put them back on one day. No.2 transmission is on it's way out. Can smell it burning the oil when going up large hills. Have changed the filter and flushed the oil and no difference. Took it up to drag day and it decided it only wanted to use third gear after the first run. Did a couple more 21-22 second runs and then parked up for the rest of the day. When we left it was back to normal. Unsure whats going on there. Had a suggestion it went into limp mode. Have another trans there that I could swap in and see what happens with that one, otherwise really considering manual swapping it!

Yes i found enough pieces of bronze ones to make about 80% of one, then faked the rest with bits from the rustiest one i could find. Not sure why i spent about...50 hours on it? It's a ...questionable? design, like, Victorian era "I just designed an engine that runs on gas & want to run it on liquid fuel & this is the best I have" design. Not horrible, just weird. They have a 'toilet lid' looking flapper in them and a bowl of gas, and tubes, and the flapper not only regulates how much air (yes air) gets sucked into the main jet but opens at speed as a kind of mixing valve? And doubles as a backfire arrestor. Weird, logical enough, but horridly old fashioned.

I picked through a bucket of parts & found them. Should be enough parts for 1 good one. I think the parts carb' was one you gave me too. Do you need a giant 3 litre lawnmower engine carb?

Huh.... someone gave me rusty carb's. At first i couldn't find any, now i have spares.

Forget that one, the new tune is better. That one sounded like a series of tiny gearshifts, kind of like an early fast&furious movie. Eww why is there a digital thing on my dash? Oh, if i look closer it's an exhaust temp' sensor. But the gauge seems to have suffered damage from a 25 volt alternating current charging system. But it worked for a month so i guess i got enough data...

They only need 10 seconds of water flow every 1 minute. And that plug does look a bit lean but i run mine at 9.5:1 so i might be bias.

If i increment the math side of things by 100 it stays at full advance all the time. By 1,000 - 10,000, same thing. It even advances while sitting there not turning over, but will retard while running. Please tell me how bad my math is.

Don't mind this, it's just a basic, primitive tune i spent the afternoon adjusting // constants won't change. Used here to set a pin number: const int coil1 = 3; const int coil2 = 5; const int coil3 = 7; const int coil4 = 9; const int sensorPin1 = A4; const int sensorPin2 = A1; const int sensorPin3 = A2; const int sensorPin4 = A3; int sensorValue = 0; int sensorThreshold = 200; int sensorMax = 0; // Variables will change: volatile int coilState = LOW; volatile int coilPin = LOW; volatile int sparkTriggerDelayActive = false; //added this to try & see if i can delay spark at low RPM. volatile int sparkTriggerDelay = 0; volatile unsigned long rpmCurrMicros= 0; volatile unsigned long rpmOldMicros = 0; volatile int sensor1TriggerCounter = 0; // counter for the number of button presses volatile int sensorTriggerState = false; // current state of the button volatile int lastsensorTriggerState = true; // previous state of the button/sensor in this case. // constants won't change: // Generally, you should use "unsigned long" for variables that hold time // The value will quickly become too large for an int to store const long dwell = 10; // but this is how long the "points" are open, open longer reduces duty cycle of coils. // constants won't change: const long coilCharge = 2; // interval at which to charge coil (milliseconds) void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once: Serial.begin(9600); pinMode(coil1, OUTPUT); pinMode(coil2, OUTPUT); pinMode(coil3, OUTPUT); pinMode(coil4, OUTPUT); pinMode(A4, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(A1, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(A2, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(A3, INPUT_PULLUP); } void activateCoilsIfLow(uint8_t inPin, uint8_t outPin) { volatile unsigned long timestamp = 0; sensorTriggerState = true; if (analogRead(inPin) <= sensorThreshold) { if (lastsensorTriggerState = (false)) { delay(sparkTriggerDelay); lastsensorTriggerState = true; } else { coilState = HIGH; coilPin = HIGH; digitalWrite(outPin, HIGH); timestamp = millis(); while (coilState == HIGH && coilPin == HIGH && (timestamp + coilCharge) > millis()); //Busy wait digitalWrite(outPin, LOW); coilPin = LOW; timestamp = millis(); while (coilState == HIGH && coilPin == LOW && (timestamp + dwell) > millis()); coilState = LOW; coilPin = LOW; } } else if (analogRead(inPin) >= sensorThreshold) { sensorTriggerState = false; if (sensorTriggerState != lastsensorTriggerState) { rpmOldMicros = rpmCurrMicros; rpmCurrMicros = micros(); lastsensorTriggerState = false; rpmConsultRatioTable(); } } } void loop() { activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin1, coil1); activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin3, coil3); activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin2, coil4); activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin4, coil2); } void rpmConsultRatioTable() { if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros >= 497512) //sub250rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =0; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 255024) //125rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =57; //prev'55 } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 169491) //177rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =39; //prev' 37 } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 127512) //250rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =27; //at 250 RPM and 45 degree sensor advance, this would be 30ms to TDC, subtract 2ms for coil charging and subtract more m.s. for advance } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 85008) //375rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =16; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 61000) //500rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =11; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 48000) //625rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =7; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 41000) //750rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =2; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 31500) //just under 1000rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =0; } } Posting this here so i can find it later if i'm not home. Side note: i am probably the only person using milliseconds to determine when to fire the plug compared to using actual degrees.

After deciding that i can't really devise a means of making a sparkplug ionization measuring device at home... Has anyone here used inductance on the coil lead to calculate the delay of firing a coil to the point of the spark occurring? Bonus points if it's an earth lead on a C.o.P. setup.

I have no idea what that made cold starting easier but in the limited tests i did (2 tests. Not very accurate) it did.

All assembled bar a few things that need finishing... Did this first, not sure what it should be but seems low...? But it popped into life on third pull. Was bloody surprised, and shut it down cos was just running in air. Quickly rigged a bucket to get some cooling water through it... And it chucked water everywhere, Bucket obvs not up to task so emptied the old wheely bin I use for scrap and it seemed to be pumping cooling water through ok... Had daughter holding it for that pic, she wasn't keen... Ran ok but had a few backfires after a couple of minutes, and stopped a couple of times. Could have been low on fuel as I only put a little bit in and had used a bit tickling the carb, plus I'm waiting on a plug cap so the connection's only finger tight, and am unsure how it likes running off choke. Really need some sea-trials to see how it's going... And should be able to see where I've been on the water if this residue is any indication... Stoked it ran though. Now I need to fix the boat to put it on...

Not sure how to test the frequency of the main loop without an oscilloscope so i had it serial print for 30 seconds. Which told me the baud rate was the limiting factor. E.G. Versus Edit: what happened to the text with the other rate ect? Anyhow. adding "coilState = LOW" in the 'else' statement has transformed the open road running. Work much like i intended (Duhh what an oversight that was!) Would drive fine. But it's now hard to start & misses at 120-500 RPM? Can't figure that one out.

I'll probably copy this sort of brace for the upper mount

Good observation, but if that happened it'd cut power to the coil which would result in a spark. So not a bad result as it'd be "on time" rather than lagging.

Edit: Forgot to mention this is a nano 328P about 16.000hrtz? If that makes a difference to the way it runs. So.. this runs really weird on manual advance mode, seems to lag at certain RPM, then suddenly the timing will become accurate for a slightly higher RPM, then lag for the few RPM above that. Revving stationary it'll be fine at idle to ...1100RPM? cough & pop out the carb' until 1700 RPM. On the road you can feel it lurching at cruise speeds, each time the RPM rises or falls across that threshold that spans maybe... 10RPM layers where the lag disappears & re-appears, judging from the exhaust sound and gas temp' gauge reading 50-70 degrees above normal it's running retarded. Feels like a cross between riding a horse and "Run out of gas & sloshing the last bit of fuel in the carb' bowl over the main jet" surging. At 1600-1700 RPM or so it'll lose that lag & fire on time every time, feels like someone hit Vtec. Tried changing micros to millis ect, same effect. 6,000 worked better than 10,000 micros. Meanwhile. This crappy delay code will run perfectly. But doesn't have any advance/retard (and if i tried to add that i'd lose lots of time to calculate it due to the delay...)

Nothing wrong with that, I lowered my wagon using an OBD2 tool, took 30 mins and didn't need to roll around on the ground unbolting grubby suspension parts

That’s the millennial quote of the day there. No more dyno tuning, just windows updates

Stopped at SuperChargers in Hamilton, Taupo and Palmy for about 20mins at each. We went via Hawkes Bay for a night so had a charge up in Hastings on one of the Charge Net chargers for about 30 mins. One quick 20 min charge in Blenheim while we had a toilet break and another in Kaikoura while we had fish and chips and that was it. Basically every time we stopped we got something to eat or drink, had a stretch and a toilet break and maybe waited for 5 mins in the car and that was it. Very stress free and not at all an issue. Some of the charging we probably didn't even need to do it was more just piece of mind and it also meant I could give it a good thrashing from time to time with plenty of juice.

https://cleantechnica.com/2019/07/16/lowering-the-tesla-model-3-increases-efficiency-an-astounding-7/ "Lowering The Tesla Model 3 Increases Efficiency An Astounding 7%"

I'll send you a sticker when you tang and desprang.

Would you like some more bits...

Thanks! Basically it's just: Degrease. Because the electrolysis doesn't work so well if it's oily. Put in electrolysis bath for a day or two or several days. Each day, or whenever, give the sacrificial electrodes a scrub with the wire brush to remove the crusty shit so they work good again. Rinse with hot water.(I have a hot tap outside) Clean off black stuff with hot soapy water, scourer pad and wire brush. Most of it will come off with minimal effort. Rinse with hot water. Parts will start to flash rust as they dry. Blow dry with compressed air. Spray with WD40 to remove any left over water. Wipe with cloth. Much of the flash rust will wipe off. Sensually massage parts with oil. Wipe with cloth to remove excess oil.

Electrolysis for the win. Ans a scourer pad... and soapy water. Came up well. I oiled the 4 jaw so it doesn't rust again.

I hit a bit of a brick wall with progress because at some point I want to paint the engine bay and underside, and was trying to do things in a way which meant I could get that done, get the engine sorted and painted and in for good and then do things like make the exhaust afterwards Then I realised that was stupid and I was wasting time mucking around trying to figure out things with the engine on the stand, and whacked the motor and box back in . I need to get everything done then I'll take it apart for paint last Shifter mounted, i wanted it up high so it's not far from the steering wheel to the shifter, @RXFORD/matt from tin tricks helped me out again with that by folding up a shifter mount and putting some fancy holes in it And put the carb and hat on, the bonnet doesnt shut so I'll have to figure out what I'm going to do with that

Bosozukodozer the barry aggravator

Except for still having a leaky sump, it seems. Someone, at some time in the past, over-tightened the sump bolts and deformed the gasket. (For "someone", read "me") (For "at some time in the past", read "last Saturday") It was fine for a bit & then it wasn't. Still, the chassis definitely isn't going to rust now. Surely I'll get it right in the end with all this practice.

Ii haven't done anything to this. Today I did some things with it today. Things like pushing piles of AP65 about and making a nice parking space behind the garage. Mint!