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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/10/19 in all areas

  1. finished up the water pipe that goes under the manifold. it had to be modified to clear the superdupercharger manifold. 2019-12-09_08-34-58 by sheepers, on Flickr once i got that finished i thought it would be a good idea to rig up a pressure tester and test all the welds. 2019-12-09_08-34-45 by sheepers, on Flickr the only bit that leaked was the one bit i hadn't touched at all. the chem wash the block went through at the engine builder must have dissolved the schmutz holding it on. it was this plate. ive glued it back on now, but apart from that everything else is sealed up. 2019-12-09_08-34-36 by sheepers, on Flickr now i can put the manifold on for final. one step closer to a finished motor.................
    11 points
  2. The solenoid got cut up and turned into a much closer replica of the other setup, as much as it could be. I had been pondering it all day, and it had an extra 4 pin holes that would feed into the banjo and potentially mess up the back pressure, so I TIG'd them up and made a proper top bleed screw that fitted into the solenoid housing. Then I set the timing with much care to factory spec. And still fucking nothing, but it did seem a wee bit better. So I fucked with the last adjustment available, which i assumed was basically set right if it had been running - the fuel screw, and lo! Clearly this was the main culprit, someone must have fucked with it. It wont really rev yet, but I decided to stop while I was ahead...
    9 points
  3. Small update - a whole post on brake calipers... My last set I ended up using on another Range Rover to get it on the road so I had to do the whole process all over again. This time I had them HPC coated in their HiPerCoat, which should not be effected by brake fluid and all that and look great for a long time. The finish came out amazing! Shame I will never really see them..
    9 points
  4. Years and years ago I made up a little bracket to go on the end of a home-made clamp, for valve collet removal / installation. It was a case of 'I'll buy a proper one, one day...'. However, this thing still persists, and still does the job :-). A bit more mucking around trying to remember how this goes back together and which way around things go, and its all sorted. Just need to torque up the cam bolt and it's ready to pop on the motor. Have set all the valve lash really roughly, hopefully it'll sit in the right position to get the cam belt on, otherwise I'll loosen all the rockers off again, get it timed right and then re-set. They'll need to be re-set hot anyway. As mentioned the cam was ground at Kelfords, pretty standard specs, should pep it up a bit Waiting on some parts from Amayama, an oil pump gasket and the head dowels being the bits really needed to pop the rest of the motor together. Its great being able to get good prices on factory parts, but the shipping time is pretty extreme. Oh well, no rush eh? The engine has been sitting under the bench for years as it is.
    8 points
  5. Started making a mailbox for my dad as a Christmas present today. Another couple of days to coat it with heaps of polyurethane and then a layer of paint inside and it should be good. Made from recycled rimu so it has a few imperfections, I added a load of apprentice marks to it and will leave them in so I have a story to tell
    5 points
  6. I definitely have a problem. This one is an Aus assembled but JDM Diamante 30R-SE wagon, so full spec with sunroof, leather, driver's airbag, ABS brakes. It's a higher trim grade than my 30R-S sedan but being Australian assembled it only has a SOHC engine, not as fancy climate control etc etc. It was cheap, and is another oddball so yeah.... had to have it.
    5 points
  7. Figured this thing was getting too heavy to lift around the work shop and move out of the way so I decided to do something with the wheels. Got a pair of these for about $20 each from bunnings (rated to about 25kg each). Chopped the legs about 70mm and drilled out some holes. I was going to just bolt the wheels to the legs but we didn't have anything long enough to suit so I ended up trimming the hex off the bolts and used it as a spigot on the legs. Tacked them on and the wheels bolted on perfect. Not pretty but they're functional and it's now 100x easier to shift around.
    3 points
  8. Sigh, It seems like my life is a never-ending cycle of messing with KJet fuel pressures. But hopefully, this will help My quality German made KJetronic pressure testing setup arrived. Huge thanks to MissingParts on eBay, as this is some proper quality gear, and for less than I paid for the other setup. Nicely crimped ends, with quality rubber and fabric braided hoses The seller has a great sense of humour. "For oldtimer cars" I hooked the new setup up, which was a lot easier with the banjo fittings, rather than the generic screw fittings Now it was time to confirm the readings from the old gauge. Previously the cold control pressure was stone dead on the gauge, at near enough zero psi. This gauge, not so much. We want cold pressure here, near the green line (depending on ambient temp), otherwise it's too lean when cold So, what about the system pressure, which wouldn't go over 5bar, no matter how thick of a shim I fitted? Off the gauge; over 6bar And we want that at 5-5.5bar, on this green line. Too high and the control pressure will be too high also. Well damn. No wonder it still wasn't happy. I pulled the two additional shims out, and we dropped to 5bar system pressure. Better, but not perfect. I knocked the adjustment on the WUR to get the control pressure down to the required half bar, but the car wasn't running right. The next step was to step back, reset everything and presume that everything I had done with the old gauge was buggered. Because the system pressure was a tad low I wanted to add my small extra shim and see how that increased pressure (i carefully measured it when I made it, to add 0.5bar). Hah, perfect! I found this amazing step by step guide, which I followed and it worked perfectly. Big thanks to the author of that. The first step was to make my WUR adjustable. This is so that if I knock the pressure adjustment down too far I can use a nut to pull the pin back out, instead of having to remove and disassemble it to tap the pin back out by hand. I drilled and tapped the pin to M5x0.8 and using a screw, nut and washer, made it adjustable. The guide that I used is here. The basics of the mod are that you screw the screw in tight (or Loctite it in so it cant turn) and then tighten the nut down to pull the pin out of the body. To push it back down you wind the nut completely out, against the head of the screw and then use a punch and hammer to tap the screw/pin down again. It would be a lot easier to use if the screw didn't have a flange as there is limited space when mounted on the car, but its what I had on hand. With the WUR apart again I replaced the O-Ring for the diaphragm and flipped the thin metal diaphragm to the other side to even up any wear. Following the guide, I found that my initial pressure with no springs/strip was OK, and the pressure could be increased to the correct level by hand. Good. The next test had me checking the heater works, which when holding it in my hand with power applied, I could confirm it did get warm to the touch. Good. Next was to test the pseudo-warm pressure by reassembling the WUR with the springs, but without the heater/strip. This applies pressure to the mexican hat and diaphram, to emulate the warm pressure. This should be 3.5bar or HIGHER. I had just under 3bar. Not enough. This is where I had to get creative and work out how to adjust this. On other WUR, there is an adjustment screw under a brass cap on the base. You drill through that cap, and there is a hex screw to raise or lower the platform the springs sit on. I tried drilling what I thought was the cap, but turns out the base for my platform is actually a pin pressed into the housing. Its the recessed circle with a hole drilled in it. So, with callipers in hand, I tested/measured to see if I could use a hammer and punch to also adjust that like you do the cold pressure pin. Sure enough, some careful whacks of the adjustment tool, and I had raised the platform, thus increasing pressure on the springs. 4bar is perfect. I fully reassembled the WUR, heater/strip and all, and reinstalled on the car to test/adjust the cold pressure. I got this easily down to a solid 0.7bar (within the margin of error for the ambient temps, I didn't want to mess around too much getting it lower) I connected the heater and watched as the pressure slowly increased. The heater and strip were working perfectly. I got it near the required 2.9bar, but it was still a tad low with the engine running at temp, so I used the one last adjustment available; tapping the main circular unit on the WUR down. This is the part that the two fuel hoses bolt onto. This is also pressed into the body, and like the other two adjustments can be carefully tapped down with a punch. This takes very little to increase the pressure, but be very careful not to punch it down too far or the WUR had to come completely apart again to tap it back out. I alternated tapping the punch on both sides, where the arrows are pointing. This resulted in a nice 2.9bar when warm. Excellent. After some tweaking of the idle and CO screws, the results were immediate and obvious. The car ran and idled better than ever, including idling under 2000rpm for the first time. I set the idle to about 1000rpm, which is higher than factory spec, but it felt happier there than the 800-900rpm recommended. http://youtu.be/3VVylMr5BVI The only thing left to do was to put on my big boy pants and try taking it for a run. The last time it was on the road it constantly tried to die on me and left me blocking intersections. Not ideal, and no wonder I was nervous. This time, it started and was driving perfectly. It was pulling strong and felt good... until the hesitation kicked in again at high RPM under load. The exact same issue as before I rebuilt the Kjet system. I came home with mixed emotion. The car ran and drove well unless I got on the throttle. Kind of a win, but also a fail. Mrs Petrol and I were discussing the issue and she reminded me that her old Alto used to buck and hesitate if the fuel was too low... Surely that's not the issue? Nooooo If you look at the design of the tanks, the feed to the pump is at the front of the tanks, toward the front of the car. It's possible that under acceleration the little fuel in the tanks was sloshing away from the outlet and starving the pump. Maybe. The orange arrow is pointing to the fuel outlet on that tank, the other is on the other tank in the same location. Well, I guess I limp the car to the gas station and chuck some gas in and see what happens. Well, what does happen is that if you don't have both fuel caps open when you try to put any fuel in the tanks it all comes rushing back out and pukes down the side of the car and onto the ground. Oops. I added 20L to each tank, at great expense, and guess what, my Wife was right (like usual), the hesitation is completely gone, and it will happily rev out to redline under WOT. Amazing. The sound and feel of the car is crazy. It's so loud, but makes a great noise. You sit so low, but the car feels big. Even when it's not moving everyone is breaking their necks to see what it is. It's not a car for the shy. It does leave me wondering a little, if I had just filled the tanks when I first got the car, would it all have been OK anyway? The main issue I had before I rebuilt it all was that hesitation issue. In saying that, it's starting, running and driving better than it ever has since I got it, so the work was well worth it regardless. I'm stoked. Still some things to tidy, but it is almost ready to go for a WOF check.
    3 points
  9. It used to be the third Wednesday of the month, which would make it the 18th of December. At this stage, my Jag is running and legal and I'll be in town.
    2 points
  10. Is this thing still happening? I might finally have gotten my old girl on the road again, and may want a burger.
    2 points
  11. Nice! I just received a package addressed simply from "H4ND"... I lol'd It's like an 90's computer parts santa sack, lots of cool stuff including a Voodoo 2! fck yeah 3dfx time and there are enough ISA coax network cards to set up my own beige LAN haha Thanks man much appreciated.
    2 points
  12. Also also, the mod 'Brutal Doom' for the original Doom's is fucking amazing.
    2 points
  13. Also pretty cool that while I was working on it I got my 5yo boy into playing the original Lemmings. He loved it which is awesome.
    2 points
  14. This thing got a good dose of mud and dust during Te Urewera Undertaking a couple of weekends ago. It performed great and didn't miss a beat over the whole 550km distance! Only issues to report were the rack failing on Day 1 due to too much weight bearing onto the rear guard. It bent rack far enough that the rear wheel caught the numberplate and folded it upwards (folding the guard in half at the same time). The guard pulled straight (enough) and my tools rode in the service wagon for the rest of the event. Notice the relocated number plate too. Hah. The other issue was on day 3 when my fuel can (now strapped to the seat) came loose and blocked my exhaust! It happened just after going through a ford, so I was looking for wet spark components. The plug, coil etc were all dry as a bone and it wasn't until a few minutes later that I noticed the fuel can was blocking the pipe. It was super close to burning through and could have turned me into a fireball . Such a great way to spend a few days and I'm already hanging out for the next one! It's given me some inspiration to start working on the blue MX again, so I'll start chipping away on that over summer.
    2 points
  15. This ute has been a constant fixture in my life for many years now, and its pretty easily my favorite vehicle I've ever owned. It's never let me down, when something does break its so simple you can fix it on the side of the road, and it just gives you 'feel good' vibes when you drive it :-). I bought it from the original owners year ago, and it had never been more than 20k's from Sheffield (where it was sold new) in its life. It's in good nick for one of these, with no major rust issues to speak of. The cab corners are all good, and the wellside is also rust free and pretty much dent free inside too. The canopy has never been off it, and the tray has always had a ply-wood spoil board in place. The interior shows its age though, with dash cracks and worn out bench seat. I've done a bit of work to it over the years. Did a major overhaul of all the suspension and brakes a couple of years ago. Everything under there is brand new or rebuilt. 2" blocks in the back, 2" drop spindles in the front with 2nd gen vented brakes. 1/2 a coil off the front to get it sitting even. Everything poly-bushed, wheels are $50 cheapies from trademe I tidied up. They're probably due another tidy up by now, but I think i'll be changing them out for something else (wider) in the near future. For the first years of owning the truck it was just a weekend vehicle, used for taking the garden waste to the refuse station, helping people move things around, etc. I had euro-diesels as I was commuting big k's each week for work... However at the beginning of 2019 I scored a fantastic job in Christchurch, so I no longer have to spend 12.5 hours a week commuting to and from work. When you add that into your work hours each week, its just too much time being idled away. As of a few months ago the euro-diesels are sold and the truck is performing daily duties. So, its time for the second round of major modifications: 4g63 SOHC 8V. TD05 Big 16G turbo (EVO III). Galant MPI injection. 2nd Gen 5 Speed gearbox (possibly with a Starion gearset, if the ratio's are better). 3.54:1 gears, with and LSD center. Starion seats fitted general interior update. I'm hoping for a good 200 buff horses to the rear wheels. Truck weighs in at around 1250kg's, mostly at the front I assume, so it should make it pretty lively with an LSD and 195's. Should be able to get better economy too, with the 5 speed (currently its a 4 speed) and the taller gears, and better fuel system. Not for the first few months I'm sure, as I'll be deep in the loud pedal a lot I'd say, but after that I'm hoping things improve ;-).
    1 point
  16. I can think of 6 off the top of my head/there may be more of us than you think
    1 point
  17. I am board with this project, I want a new one.
    1 point
  18. Could skip it, it's only food trucks and wanker beers in a downtown warehouse. Do we have a venue?
    1 point
  19. Flemings You walk right past him on your way to work Opposite Vernon and vasey Lowther st
    1 point
  20. What is the go with Hall Effect or Magnetic Pickup distributors? It seems you cant run the high output transistor type coils (~0.5ohm primary Bosch HEC715/716 or MEC717/718 for example) but should run the medium output type type (Bosch MEC723 ~1.1ohm primary) as you will burn out the switching module. Reason I ask is I have put a GT40 coil on my electronic dizzy but getting intermittent spark - Have managed to get it started twice and flattenned the battery trying, Installing the old coil restores spark. Do I need a MEC transistor type coil as replacement? I am trying to get rid of engine hunting at idle/low RPM - Tuner thinks it might be coil as I have a weak spark. Let me know if I should put this in a new topic but seemed related to the topic.
    1 point
  21. I was down to my last ones and getting desperate! The fact it works at all is a small miracle. Had to do the hard line to get everything in position. Could have brought more AN fittings but this is only v1 will tidy it up at some point (I'm sure everyone says that)
    1 point
  22. How many different brands of hoseclips does that have on it?
    1 point
  23. Cheers bro ! Yeah definitely give it a crack. Will be going reverse flow. I've never personally used one before but hear it's the business and yeah far better for maintaining a more consistent temp. Combined with a good fire box setup it should be pretty easy barbecuing. As for the got plates there will be one on a removable shelf on the fire box for searing and will have 2 removable racks in the main chamber.
    1 point
  24. hey man, yea my back is feeling really good. still got to be careful and take things easy but so far so good. oh, also, i ran into your brother the other day, nice bloke. we had a brief yarn.
    1 point
  25. So, thanks to an @ajg193 referral, and @kyteler for posting the link over in the discussion thread, this happened: Then last friday, this also happened: That's new-ish to Chch, has an 850cc Dai il3 transplant, and the owner stopped to say hello.
    1 point
  26. Nice and clean.. Gave it a rinse out with detergent and plenty of water, the half a litre of meths to get all the water out, let it sit in the sun for everything to evaporate while I had a beer.. Still a bit of the white oxide around but I'm not so worried about that, hopefully now I can have some trouble free motoring instead of stopping (sometimes every 5 km) to try and get rid of a blockage..
    1 point
  27. Picked up a pine dowel for the lid handles and got some macrocarpa lengths off the olds for the bench. Cut these all down to size, then with help from the other half we sanded them back and threw some linseed oil stain on them. Sanded to 240grit and chamfered the edges. First coat of oil and pieces side by side to show the different stages. 3 layers deep (on the rark). Some sweet colour and nice grain out of the Mac. Should look pretty sweet once it's all fitted up. This is where I'm at right now. The next stage with be the lids/doors then the main chamber baffles. Will see how we go anyway. If anyone has any ideas please let me know, just making it up as I go. Cheers, Tai
    1 point
  28. Big news! I ran over a screw: This meant I had to get a new tyre, so I asked the shop to check the balancing of all my new wheels at the same time. They were all out of balance. With them balanced, vibration on the motorway is finally OK. Then the Jag was due for a WOF, but its handbrake had stopped working. This was a bit annoying after the expense of the rear disc replacements. I took the car to the local one-man-band Jaguar Barry who'd been too busy to replace the discs for me last year. He repeated that only certain handbrake pads could be trusted, but he also basically said that the Jag handbrake is a marginal arrangement. It needs to be set up correctly and used carefully to avoid ripping the pads out. My handbrake cable was rusty, causing a lot of friction and making the handbrake heavy to apply and tricky to release. Barry has sorted it now though. WOF obtained (after a second new tyre). Unfortunately this handbrake drama took a while and meant that my Jag was not available for New Plymboes, so I took my company car. Not only was this not exactly 'limited' personal use, the manner in which I got busted wasn't the best - by some extreme fluke, I overtook my company's human resources lady on the wrong side of the road. Soooo.. I took the Jag on a work trip around the Waikato to make up for it. Although the car feels fine around town and has plenty of grip, at open road speeds it still feels sketchy. Not only is there tramlining from the lower-profile tyres, there's the (excessive) rear steering effect that Jaguar built into the rear suspension. Also, there's this: Whether because my car's a 'sports' variant or because someone already modified it, the steering rack mounts are packed out with these rubber bumpers on the outer side. This looks like it should limit movement of the rack, but I think I'll try new rack mountings anyway. Finally, because of that screw in my tyre, I'm now guilty of violating this rule: On the idle issue, I did a compression test. Ignore the oil on the last two plugs. The compressions are only a bit uneven, but they're all much too high (meant to be 160-170psi). Faulty gauge? Carbon buildup? Just lucky? This ain't no technological breakdown, Oh no... This is the road... ...to Hell!
    1 point
  29. New radiator support panels and lower crossmember in. Rust repairs done and new front panel all spot welded on. Happy days !
    1 point
  30. Still fixing rust, waiting to get my CO2 cylinder back before I can continue with that side of things. Enough rust in this thread so will keep that progress to a minimum. Bit of boot rust to sort, one corner example. Tacked up, have since finished this ready for primer/fill/paint. Doors are next, had some sheet folded up to have a nice straight bottom edge on the doors. Was going to patch it in sections, but it would take longer and i'd likely have ended up with an averagely not straight edge. Before: With new section clamped in place, no gas = no metal gluing. Etch primed some bits with Zinc-It, then black Zinc-It on top. It's not as good as epoxy primer and a top coat. But all the parts are sound enough that I just wanted to tidy them up, will last for years anyway. Plus some parts like hub faces, steering knuckles, I don't want thick paint layers on. I don't spray the epoxy, so brushing on doesn't really suit. Bits: I need to knuckle down and get rust sorted by the end of the holiday (funnily enough that's what I said about a year ago...). I have most of the parts needed now, just need to paint the engine cross-member and get that installed back in. Then I can reinstall all of the front end, sway bar, steering rack etc. All bushes up front have been redone. Pressed in new ball joints this week, wheel bearings are next. The brake disc bolts to the rear of the hub, so I need to have the brakes all finished first, as I don't want to take the hub off once bearings are in. Still a huge list of things to do. Snookered myself with the brakes as I can't roll the car on 13's up front anymore with the discs installed. Can't roll it without them either as it will mean the hub is installed with no brakes and will have to come to bits again. On the hunt for a pair of 15's to get me rolling. Wheels aren't finished being polished yet. But if I can get them done by xmas I will hopefully get some tyres thrown on and have it moving again. Anyway, a smaller teaser to finish off 2019.
    1 point
  31. rebuilding power steering pumps. ive done a few of these now and had great success with all of them. you might do it a different way, whatever, this is how i do it. firstly, take a picture of each stage of the disassembly, there are many subtle differences to the orientations and alignments that will fuck the whole thing up if you put it back together wrong so take pictures as you go. the pump off my UZ was really fucked, lots of really bad scoring on both the stater plates and the rotor, but the inside diameter of the eccentric ring was good so it could be fixed without to much drama. 2019-12-03_09-20-52 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-02_06-38-54 by sheepers, on Flickr so, how to do? you need a good flat two sided stone. not one that has been used to sharpen chisels or knives but a flat one. i have one i only use for this type of work so i know its flat. you're going to be trying to polish the plates to within 0.01mm over the surface so the stone needs to be good. also so good cutting oil will help no end. the other thing you really need is a micrometer, for two reasons, obviously to measure the parts as you go, and the other reason is that the mic can give you a really good feel for where things aren't parallel or where the high spots are. once you give it a try you'll see what i mean. 2019-12-02_12-07-21 by sheepers, on Flickr so, mic all your parts and write down what each one measures. (this picture shows after stoning so there are two measurements but more on that later) 2019-12-02_06-28-53 by sheepers, on Flickr polish the parts on the stone using circular motion or a figure of eight motion (don't do long strokes along the stone because you'll grind the surface out of flat and its very hard to get it back) and rotate the every couple of passes so your pushing on a different part of the plate. use the mic to measure the plate and make sure its still flat and both sides are still parallel. keep going until the plate is smooth. i couldn't get the last deep score out of this plate so it will just have to live like this, its not to bad but these deformations allow oil pressure to get between the side plates and the rotor pushing them apart and you loose line pressure. 2019-12-02_12-07-14 by sheepers, on Flickr in the above picture you can see the scratch marks from the rough side of the stone. once you've got the scoring out and they are flat and parallel you can give them a polish on the smooth side of the stone. this serves two purposes, they need to be smooth so they work well and dont score again in service and it gives you a second chance to check your work. 2019-12-02_12-07-28 by sheepers, on Flickr you can see on the rotor the area to the right is not flat, that only showed up after smooth polishing. i had to go back and re-do it to get it flat. this meant that i had to remove 0.04mm from the rotor. because of that it meant that the vanes were to wide so i had to stone them too. to check that the vanes had correct clearance in the rotor i used the mic. in the two pictures you can see i set the mic on the rotor, then inserted a vane, i was easily able to move the vane in and out confirming the measurement. 2019-12-02_12-07-54 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-02_12-08-02 by sheepers, on Flickr once i had the rotor flat and the vanes 0.01mm thinner that the rotor i needed to address the eccentric stater plate. this sets the spacing of the whole assembly and because i had removed so much material from the rotor there was now too much clearance between the rotor and the side plates. this pic shows the "after fixing the rotor fuckup" measurements. 2019-12-02_06-29-11 by sheepers, on Flickr you can see the initial clearance was about 0.04mm and i have removed 0.04 from the rotor so i had to remove the same from the stator plate (i didnt write down the final measurement for the eccentric plate in the picture so it still says 15.03 but i actually polished it to 15.00 to keep the 0.04mm clearance). so, once thats all done the rest is simple, new o rings, new seal and a new bearing (which cost the grand total of 38$) and the pump is good as new. hope this helps you in future, like i say, theres more than one way of fucking a cat but this is how i do it.
    1 point
  32. FB link pic could be a good pre-Nats meet or dry run for those getting theor cars ready for a trip to Raglan! @Gasser @BillyTong @baby k somone tag that Audi guy @Cazza @Duddley @Leebo3
    1 point
  33. Perfect timing. Thank you! For others: It is used to transfer fuel from one side of the saddle tank to another. It does that by using excess pressure from the pressure regulator.
    1 point
  34. The standard wiring will be more than adequate. Remember that when running without a ballast the ignition will be receiving approx double the voltage hence a reduction in the amps you'll be drawing. (i.e. watts = volts x amps). It's another reason why HEI coils run cooler and don't necessarily need oil cooling.
    1 point
  35. Pushed it outside for some vitamin D. Still lots of bits missing and bits to torque up but at least it rolls! And some old sales material I came across. Early shot of the production line and a sweet exploded view of the side frame and panels.
    1 point
  36. I wanted to upgrade our oven for the wife’s 30th, but there seems to be some kind of kitchen tax on nice ranges. I had no idea you could spend so much on a glorified indoor BBQ! So I got a ratty old one of Trademe that was supposedly a good brand and got stuck in. It was in a poor state, looked like it had never been cleaned a day in its life! I found most parts needed replacing and there were a few mouse nests inside... Friends and family were keen to help out which was great. After a few weeks of scrubbing and some parts hunting I could put it back together. I lucked out with a UK crowd that were dirt cheap on shipping and had most parts I needed. I had to get some bits locally, like some lengths of towel rails for the handles. It came out mint, and a fraction of the cost of a new one! Now I’ve just got to shoe horn it into our small kitchen!
    1 point
  37. youve probably already sorted it. but i just picked up our one from dads so i can sort the head on the corona, welcome to use it.
    1 point
  38. Have you still got the relatively stock E39A as well? Building a little collection of blue smokers still I hope.
    1 point
  39. So I finally came back to NZ in December and gave the car a bit of a clean up, found some original 15" wheels (that I probably wont end up using now), and then put it on gen 1 GTO 16" wheels: Took the 17" wheels off the parts GTO including Enkei alloy spare and extra 17" as spare Obtained some gen 2 GTO brakes along with the gen 1 GTO front brakes from parts car (rear gen 1 brakes are same as stock Diamante). Also large plenum 380 manifold obtained to modify.
    1 point
  40. Still tidying. Took a break from garden shit to knock up a bracket to hold my golf trundler. Couldn't find anything big enough so narrowed some old 10-speed bars... A lick of paint... And it now hangs in the cupboard out of the way... So that's another little bit of garage space feed up...
    1 point
  41. Update time! I have been chipping away removing more bits from the Range Rover. Trying to build up courage to remove the dashboard. Hoping to have the body off the chassis soon then the chassis and drive components can go in for blasting and the body off to the panel beaters. (keen on some recommendations on places for this if you have any) Also came across a really good set of side frames. One NOS never used and one near new. This will sort the sills, rear floor and pillars. End goal... Also, to make matters worse, I sold the white one I had, which was supposed to free up some cash to spend on Red. But then I went and got another one... NZ new 1973 Suffix B in Bahama Gold (reg on hold woohoo!). Buddy and his bobtailed one helping me move it. It has some massive V8, I think LS1. It didn't even know it was towing another.
    1 point
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