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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/02/19 in Posts

  1. Post eastcape thoughts 150cc kit was pretty nice to have. Just leave it in 3rd gear and use it like a twist and go. Top comfortable speed with loaded panniers is about 90kph. Handling on gravel is noticeably wobblier with panniers on the back. Rear tyre is ok. I would quite like a more aggressive/adv tread for gravel. Not desperate but would be an improvement. Leaving Auckland I lost power for a second on the Bombay's and thought I'd cooked it in the same spot it died last time. Carried on and found it was stumbling at over 8k rpm under a good load. Didn't notice this the week previous but I was going easy on it and had no extra weight. Plug looked like it had some brown spots in it (but was the oil contaminated one from the last rings) as a precaution I bunged in a cooler plug and started using 95 octane fuel. The stumble went away except for a small one very rarely at just under wot under load. I tried 91 again leaving opotiki and the stumble came back. Filled with 95 again and it's gone. So I'm thinking the increased compression from the kit is the cause. Cooler plug looks fine but will try again with a fresh standard. Should add that I never gapped the cooler plug so that may explain the infrequent stumble, wideband shows a bump in richness so I'm thinking the spark is the issue. Riding it today with no weight on it it doesn't happen and bangs out to 110 happily. Current jetting is standard main jet (110) and needle lifted from middle to top. This is the same as it was when the rings went, but wideband says rich and 1000km of loaded riding says it's ok. Guessing garbage rings. Mix is ok at idle and wot. Everything else is rich (high 10s to high 11s). Going to need to fiddle with the emulsion tube I think. Have ordered a new standard one from Ali. Will try that to see how different it is from the original and then start drilling. Exhaust header appears to be two layers so it's smaller than it looks. I'm thinking a new one that's actual size will help the top end. Usb in bike is lush for camp site phone charging. Led bar is lush for when headlight bulb shakes itself off. Stuff for next time? I think I could use some even smaller panniers to carry my "sleep system" which weighs like 1kg all up. If staying at similar places I won't need the stove, just need a zip/kettle at campgrounds. Will take a tarp next time, never got around to getting one this year. Bivy is great no moisture inside but would be miserable getting into in a hail storm, plenty of building at campgrounds to shelter under though Possibly don't need to take a puncture kit. If I don't take that then there's no reason to take levers. Tyres are good cond, just don't be unlucky. Don't need a fuel bottle, always had enough to get to the next pump if I couldn't fill at the nearest one for some reason. Wasn't sure on economy with the 150 kit and loaded, but it's only slight more than before. Potentially shift some weight further forward. I think this would improve gravel handling. I sold my tank bag just before I got the bike - because I won't be needing this for a while.... A pace notes holder would be an ideal addition. Anyway. Got home, changed the oil. It's looking perfect. Oiled the squeaky chain, back into commuting duty
    14 points
  2. In the quest to both right previous wrongs and make things on this car actually work, I had to have a look at the braking system. It worked, kinda, but needed to be better. Sitting around for a couple of years does no car any good, and the TVR hadn't had love in a while, so it was anyone's guess when the brakes were last touched. The main braking system worked OK, albeit there is a fairly bad pulsating through the pedal when braking. I'm hoping this is due to the rust-covered rotors, and not a sticking caliper. The hand brake just doesn't work at all; you fully engage it as hard as you can hulk the handle up, and you can still easily roll the car along the garage floor. Not ideal. The brakes on this car are... unique. The front calipers are normal, from a Granada I believe. On the Tasmin its two-piston calipers and solid rotors up front. I think the bigger engined cars upgraded to vented rotors with the same caliper (with spacers in the caliper to accommodate the wider rotor). The rears, on the other hand, are more unusual, having been taken straight from a 70s Jaguar XJ. They're inboard, with the whole brake system in sitting next to the differential, instead of out near the wheels. Way overkill for this little car (so is the differential tbh). This makes servicing the rear brakes a little less than ideal, as everything is tucked away in the middle of the car, surrounded by bits of suspension and tube frame chassis. The first step to doing any work on the brakes was to get the car in the air. Unfortunately due to the placement of the frames I couldn't use the Quickjacks to lift the car this time as I wouldn't have the space to change the oil if I did (frame would be right under the sump). The TVR isn't too hard to put on stands though, but the front is low enough that I cant get the jack under it without running it up on boards first. Before working on the brakes I took the chance to change the oil. It didn't look too bad on the dip stick, but it had to be at least two years old, and who knows how many KM since it was last changed. I drained it out, to find it was a dark grey/brown colour and smelt quite unpleasant. I guess it didn't like sitting either. A new Ryco Z71 filter and 4.7L of Penrites finest HPR30 finished off the job nicely. I haven't run the car much since, but the engine does seem to be a little quieter when cold, but now I know and trust what's in it. Moving right along, onto the brakes. I wanted to check the non-functioning hand brake first, as that's the main issue that will stop the brakes passing a WOF inspection. The system isn't too complicated; There are two little calipers attached to the main calipers in the rear, which are actuated by a cable, to clamp onto the brake rotor. These little calipers are meant to be self-adjusting, but they're known to not self adjust very well and need to be set up right. Obviously the cable had too much slack in it for a start, as the lever almost points at the sky when pulled, but the real issue is the adjustment of the pads, as there was little to no clamping happening. To adjust the hand brake, first back the cable completely off using the 13mm nut (green arrow) on the end of the cable. There is another 13mm nut (orange arrow) on the other side of the lever, out of sight, which will need to be "tightened" to allow the slack to be taken out of the cable. Next the split pin in the adjuster needs to be removed And using a big screwdriver, turn the screw clockwise until you cannot spin the hub anymore. Now back it off until you can slip a split pin through again, and that's that side done. Now adjust the other caliper the same way. To finish the job you need to tighten the cable to remove slack. First back the hidden nut (orange arrow in above photo) off and using the nut you can see, wind in on until the slack is taken up, and then wind the hidden nut back towards the lever to lock the cable into place. With any luck, it should all be adjusted now, and ready to go. Three clicks of the lever is ideal. Since I was under here, I took this as a good opportunity to flush the old brake fluid through and replace it with new, and bleed the braking system. Once again the old fluid is who knows how many years old, and was looking rather brown. Brake fluid should be replaced every two years as it absorbs moisture in the air, and becomes less effective (and can cause issues with blockage and rust if it's really bad). I used my new vacuum bleeder to suck the old fluid out of the master reservoir. I've seen better fluid. It should be a nice clear yellow. I topped up with fresh Dot 4 fluid. What came out of the rear brakes was darker than that, so obviously its been a while since the rears had been flushed. Not really that surprised, since the bleeder on the rear is such a pain to get to. Its tucked away behind this tube. Very hard to see, and limited space to swing the spanner. There is only one bleeder on the rear; on the passengers side. The calipers have a link pipe, so bleeding one bleeds both. I made sure to suck through a lot of fluid to flush both calipers. With the rears flushed I moved onto the front. The front is comparatively a breeze to work on, even if someone had put a brake hard pipe right in the way of the bleeder. Nothing a gentle bend cant fix. Strangely, the fluid that came out of the front calipers was much cleaner than the rear. I suspect someone had bled the fronts without bleeding the rear. Nice one. The vacuum bleeder is good for sucking fluid through, but I have more faith in the old one-man bleeder for actually making sure no air is in the system You may note that a couple of photos show no brake pads. This was the next job after flushing and bleeding the brakes. I removed the pads to check the pistons weren't stuck and could be pushed back. Turns out the front pads are a set of near new Redstuff Ceramic pads. These are a good high performance street pad. A good upgrade. Both front calipers responded well, with the pistons moving freely back, so that's a relief. The rears aren't as much fun to work with. I found it easiest to work on my back with my feet out the back of the car. The pads are held in with two pins, which are secured with an R-clip each (like the fronts). I found on my car that one caliper had both pins inserted the same way, and one had the pins inserted from opposing sides, which meant that the location of the R-clip was different on each caliper I used a small flat blade to pull the clips out, and then the pins just pushed out by hand. The pads took a little levering to get out but weren't too hard. The pistons on both rear calipers moved freely also, so another win. I'm sure I have receipts for the brake calipers being replaced a few years ago, so might explain why they're still in good shape. So hopefully that means the rotors just need a good hard pounding to get the rust and rubbish off them, and we might have some luck. Unfortunately even with the hand brake adjusted as it is (three clicks maximum), it's still not quite enough to hold the car on my driveway. It should be enough to pass a warrant, as my driveway is trial by fire and far too steep, but I'm hoping I can bed the pads in and get better performance once I drive the car a bit and the rust is knocked off. I'm getting closer to having the car ready for its WOF inspection. Slowly but surely, we will get there. In the meantime, I made the car look a million times better, with one easy step. Tyre shine. The old 10-15 year old rubber was looking somewhat dry.
    14 points
  3. 13 points
  4. I took a picture today. Rode the tyres off it m8
    13 points
  5. The unstoppable Bort Sumpson, shortly after hitting a large rock
    12 points
  6. I have some good footage of me telling the camera that I've been riding too long on gravel in front of you, and you'll surely catch me up soon. 2 corners later you pass me at WOT, downhill - a tight right hand bend is approaching and sure enough you slid the tail end out and drifted around the corner. I tried to keep up but you were gone within 2 corners. My 125cc; 115kph capable bike accepted defeat damn quickly. 50cc kids dirt bikes are the only way forward.
    11 points
  7. I made it to the ferry. Just about to go mighty night in my cabin. But before I do, i wanted to say a huge thank you to everyone who was a part of this magnificent event. Extra special thanks must go to John and Amy for opening up their home to a bunch of weirdos off the internet. Mark @Thphantum for feeding me better than I eat at home, and feeding me generous lashings of bourbon at gizzy. And Ben for driving me 1100+kms in his van so I could be a part of it. A+ would trade again!
    11 points
  8. A superfantstic event, Huge thanks to the organising team for putting this on and an awesome group of attendees. Very stoked to be a part of it. Bring on next year. Props to @Beaver for his wealth of knowledge and willingness to share it regarding affairs of hydro generation. Also, very proud to announce that this years trip achieved a 1 star michelin rating!
    9 points
  9. You a keen fellow bort. What an adventure that was. Unlike most of you I got to look at a significant portion of the country side on that trip and I will be going back to explore more for sure. Cheers to the chaps who organised and supported. Out done your selves once again. And cheers to Mike for being a GC and letting me finish on two wheels. A++ would trade again.
    9 points
  10. Heck yes that was great fun. I had a million percent better time this year with a bike that wasn't a complete turd Big thanks to J5 and the support vehicle drivers for making it all happen And stoked with this thing for hauling me and my junk all over some pretty rough roads with zero issues even with a decent helping of dust and mud everywhere. I lost count of how many oh shiiiit moments I had on gravel including coming within a couple of inches of driving off the side of a cliff while looking at the scenery but managed to avoid any incidents
    9 points
  11. Thank you to everyone who participated, you're all top blokes. Huge thanks to the back up crews, you guys are even topper blokes! I feel Google map master J5 out did himself with the route, it was ace! And thanks to the friendly team at doozi for the quick sticker printing, sorry I was a bit slow. I'm proper wrapped about the lack of mechanical failures, serious crashes, and instances of death, good work guys!
    8 points
  12. yes A+ succulent dinner so many Sharns, before I even got to Ohope and so many friendly locals too plenty of tiidas and friendly hugs! and always some to help when it wasn’t going to plan Hose stretching/double refueling
    8 points
  13. Sue's just having a bit of R&R in the comfort of my shed, she'll be back and stronger than ever soon enough
    7 points
  14. Wow, what a mess this thread is. Anyway. I washed this the other day so it seemed like a good time for an update. Things I have done. . . Replaced the safety valve in the fuel tank, inadvertently inhaled quite a bit of LPG and felt quite dizzy for a few minutes. Would not trade again. The new safety valve did solve the cutting out issue so that was nice. Fitted this CB Performance black box timing control unit. But it turned out to be a bit of a dick and wouldn't work as I hoped so out it came, in went a stock distributor to get it going. This Link G3 has been purchased and will be wired over Christmas with a view to getting it tuned early next year. Other things I have done include fitting a set of LN??? Hilux 4 piston calipers to the front of the Valiant. As mentioned on OS previously they take the same pads as R32 GTR skyline but skyline pads were $400 trade vs good Bendix pads at $40. Regardless of pad choice they fitted nicely with minor modification, clear my 14 inch steels, I even managed to reuse my VG brake hoses, bled up nicely, and have made a great improvement to the cars braking. I did a few other things , ordered a new boot rubber and a couple of rubber ends to hold the sun visor up, re routed the exhaust a little as it was banging on the drive shaft loop (cert guys wrecking the hobby) etc etc. Nothing exciting. Drove to Hanmer this September via Kaikoura and the inland scenic route, back to Christchurch and all over the Port Hills. Did a couple of circular engine load tests, fun was had by all. looking forward to getting the tuning sorted so I can cut the bottoms off the rear quarters and attend to the rust there and get the dented front guards sorted. I've only had the car 15 years so no rush there. Obligatory washed car photo. Happy days
    7 points
  15. I think the only sensible answer is gyro canopy. That was easily one of the funniest things I've seen this year. It's sad windscreen wiper slowly shuddering drizzle out of the way while going sideways on full opposite lock around most of the motu
    6 points
  16. Such post ride blues. What an amazing event. Cheers John and everyone else that went into the prep organisation and support! Barry bucket’s 80 series workshop was amazing and kept a few of the boys rolling. Unreal support! Front loading the ct wasn’t a great idea. Took me a day and a half to find the sweet spot with controlling that pendulum situation on gravel so I ditched it for the motu and had a way better time. Chasing blizzo was great fun. what to build for next time? I’ve popped my cherry on a bland wagon. Now for something a little more obscure?
    6 points
  17. j5 reverse cowboy traffic jam Aotearoa/ @Shakotom doing a skid thunder vid, just missed the lightning https://imgur.com/a/kdKhPWK @Archetype getting some hot laps in pre ride https://imgur.com/a/vORFeAe
    6 points
  18. This spinny thing spins in a spinning motion, and power. Penstock rhymes with speedcock.
    6 points
  19. @Archetype made a friend who likes pats and @datlow doing a pub carpark carb rebuild
    6 points
  20. Well I ignored it for 6 months, but the ‘rust forming in rad support’ that was commented on the last WOF sheet, failed to fix itself. I bashed the support out today and reassembled, the under-bonnet was a month back. i was trying to hold out to do the roof and all other repairs and paint it again before it’s next warrant.. But life got in the way and it’s been non-stop. I decided I needed it back in daily use ASAP. The datsun club nationals took place on labour weekend so the Mrs and I raced up and had a thrash round the private Rodin track with about 40 other cas. Went real well but brakes faded. i had a Frankenstein speedway A15 carb on I borrowed from Brendan. it was great fun on cam but temperamental around town and flat-spotted before climbing to the moon. Now I’ve got the twins back on but seems flat. I snapped a throttle cable and had another made.. it has a totally different feel and probably needs investigating. I put a brand new set of tyres on it too. They are nice, same Nankang AS1 as before but not shot and cracked!
    6 points
  21. Here is a proud Tortron surveying the lake he hath just conquered.
    5 points
  22. Got win98 machine all working, CD drive and sound. Warcraft 2 with CD audio is awesome. fck yeah: Need to find some 90’s pc speakers:
    5 points
  23. Also got the proper NTC sender.. The one I had was a PTC sender which was only used in the very early G1's which explains the problem.. This was set up for the first time in about 1997 on the cheapest link at the time which I assume was an lemv1. They switched to NTC after that.. Anyway, temp reads properly now. Got a new 40 amp relay but even that sticks on after I switch the ignition off although tapping this one solves the problem. Did try to get a 50 amp but repco/supercrap = shit selection. Might just go all out and get a 100 amp. Plumbed up the fpr last night, she's pretty tight in there so might have to reassess the plumbing as the outlet sits directly over the tank return line, which means a straight hose that puts pressure on the fittings /fpr mount when the engine rocks.. Doesn't hold pressure for very long so somethings amiss there.. Set it to run about 38psi, got no idea what they run at factory as I can't find any info at all on the egi MA.. Cunt Also managed to take her for her maiden drive today, Went really well.. Then didn't. Developed another fuel related issue with the pump somehow sucking air out of the tank, also now that the pumps cycling more fuel it's pulling more shit out of the tank. Went hard for about 100m then started missing/surging and eventually dying.. Typical. After sitting there trying to get the pump to prime I realised the vacuum line for the brakes was off and sucking a fair amount of air. Made fuck all difference once I reconnected it although I was able to limp home. Have one of those glass fuel bowls plumbed up just after the tank so I can see what's going on.. Looks like a fucking sodastream. All teething problems I guess but at least the pumps now not overheating..
    5 points
  24. If you got to receive fifteen BJ's but had to receive them all in a row, would you?
    5 points
  25. Good times with beautiful people. No major mishaps. Thanks to all the support drivers you were bloody A++ champions. And thank you to the tender Asian man for feeding me pink pussy at the China palace. When’s the next one
    5 points
  26. Well, hallelujah, real progress that actually looks like something, for once! The car is so small that the actual painting takes very little time. So, after months of slow stripping and prepping, all of a sudden it's starting to feel like it might actually be done one day. Next up is a coat or two of filler primer to sand back and get everything as straight and sharp as poss, then colour.
    4 points
  27. 4 points
  28. Moar pix n videos plz for us part time attendees And I vote same route for next year because it looks like a lush time deep in gravely bush
    4 points
  29. I thought I saw it on the side of the motorway at meremere, maybe it will turn up at drag day
    4 points
  30. Departing the ferry this morning, I was on the upper deck with all the trucks. A driver asked me how far I was going. Told him my car was in Blenheim so not far. Then told where we've been. Another truck driver (portly Maori gentleman) overheard. And proclaimed loudly WHAT! ON THAT THING?!!! Yeah mate.
    4 points
  31. That's the plan. Being British though, it's either going to fix it, make it worse, or cause it to burst into flames.
    4 points
  32. Holy moly what a huge weekend that was! Thanks to J5 for the hospitality and putting it all together. Can we do it again now?! Surprisingly, my wee MX survived really well!
    4 points
  33. PPSC just shoved mircrowave pizzas between the barrel and carb on their weapons. Such a great Kiwi idea. Approx 2 hours riding and your pizza is nice and dusty for road side consumption with either a super fancy craft beer or a lion brown. No in between,
    3 points
  34. So close to bottoming up the sump today. Just need to eel the bolt tubes and she is Apple's. Finished the trap doors and also installed a cross guide to the pickup..
    3 points
  35. 3 points
  36. Just seeing Michael San's coments above... Be careful driving with the handbrake on, as it can cause the pads to rip out (sounds like a fail i know). But they are a pretty fragile thing, designed to keep the car still. Not for e-brake drifts. So just be mindfull of that. Cos it will be misery to change the pads...
    3 points
  37. The only codes you need to know are IDDQD and IDKFA. If you don't know what they're for you can get fucked.
    3 points
  38. So made some moves on the sump today..
    3 points
  39. Last one! Thanks for the fun this weekend J5! No major injuries or crashes. Absolutely epic effort from all involved. Here's @Geophy being awesome.
    3 points
  40. Oh man! What a weekend! What a weekend!!! Thanks all for being lovely chaps and thanks shadow garage dudes for sorting this stuff out! So much greatness and such beautiful roads!!
    3 points
  41. Damn keen to be a part of this next year bit im gonna ride there and back from Christchurch I reckon
    3 points
  42. made some covers for the cam wheels and belt. they'll get a coat of paint when i paint all the other bits. 2019-11-30_04-52-29 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-30_04-52-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-30_04-52-09 by sheepers, on Flickr
    3 points
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