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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/15/19 in Posts

  1. Decided to try and get this thing riding a bit nicer, previous suspension setup was a little soft and hit the bump stops a bit too often, and with the extra weight of a 4age it would of been worse. Went with a set of Fortune Auto's coilovers all around, since I'll end up chucking an F series or similar diff in and I have the skills to strengthen the rear strut towers. Picked up another pair of struts, cut them down and and blasted them. Wound them all the way down and the front ended up a little higher and the back's a bit lower. Might try and get the front down a bit more, to at least were it was. Made a stainless distributor blanking cover. Bought a Flo's upper water outlet, as it looked to be the much simpler and tidier way of doing the cooling system. Needed a RWD waterpump (inc pulley), thermostat housing and a little bypass pipe to complete the setup. And of course with everything else, when you change one thing you have to change something else. The FWD alternator bracket fouled on the thermostat housing, so I got a RWD one from Japan. Borrowed some Flo's 4age to K series engine mounts and made up my own. Sitting in the hole. Had to space the engine mounts out by 8mm, possibly because of the Cusco mounts being thinner than factory ones? Dizzy relocation kit installed, had to cut a bit of a hole in the fire wall for some clearance. Stripped the interior, pulled out the dash, heater, seats, carpet and scrapped off some sound deadening around the gearbox tunnel. Cut a big ol' hole for the J160 to fit. Probably didn't need to cut so much out, but to make it easy to drop out and fit, some extra clearance was needed. Also wanted it to sit up above the sills and chassis rails. Made up a gearbox mount. Added two extra body mounts further back so that it spreads the load a bit. Has heaps of ground clearance as well. The J160 shifter needed moving forward as it lined up with the end of the handbrake. Cut up the original shifter housing and welded it on to some ali tube and 12mm plate. Spent hours on our little lathe turning up the adapter bits. Works mint, barely any flex and feels like it should. Moved it 200mm forward from the Altezza position, 50mm more than the SQ kit and 40mm back from where the factory Starlet one was.
    11 points
  2. No it's not, but that's one way to come across as a bit of a dick.
    10 points
  3. Suzuki GT-185 This is my Suzuki GT185. It has more pistons than my other bikes. This is the inside of my GT185 after I exploded it. This is the GT185 after I fixed it again.
    10 points
  4. Still have a blockage somewhere in the fuel system but it is a intermittent thing. FFS. Anyway, got a WOF. Went to the Raza because Humber.
    9 points
  5. Thought I may as well start a thread on this raging beast, a friend of mine (may have been on here once) moved from hamilton to dunedin and abandoned it on my doorstep. He had had it sitting for quite a few years. Is a 1600 with twin strombergs & extractors - the motor has had some unspecified work done, apparently from a rally car. Body is in pretty decent condition, original paint is extremely worn and has surface rust for dayz, only welding required is in rear arches due to 3/4 inch coating of oil everywhere else. interior is 5/10, seats & dash have seen better days. lots of new suspension bushes in it which is nice. bodges required: weld rear arches where needed, sand & seal surface rust fill old badge, aerial holes etc muck around with ignition, it is totally pre-bodged and doesnt turn off with key until an electrical load is introduced i.e brake lights, horn (which to be fair is pretty funny) ideally obtain electronic ignition from chrysler. minimise ridiculous oil leaks put seats and dash cover on to cover wrecked originals wof treat with disdain as not proper leyland product. feel free to question my sanity on this thread, updates will be fairly slow as im only home a few days a fortnight!
    7 points
  6. Long time no update. Car ran super well over summer, minus a little incident where I struck some slippery stuff (oil?) on the way up the bombay hill heading to Auckland for a classic meet. Long story short, front of the car hit the barrier, was lucky it missed the wheel and didn't swing the back end into it! 100km on full lock doesn't feel too good. About a week later we were heading to Leadfoot fest so had to quickly turn a repair around and get it presentable again... Slide hammer and a few dollys helped with that.
    6 points
  7. Honda Country Calendar Collection.mp3 These are my 4t farm spec bikes for rounding up nangs at the shed. 2 x CT-200 Auto AG with pull-start because getinbehindyamongrel. 1 x CT-125 conventional I don't really know why I have these, other than cheap. One came with a thistle grubber which hasn't yet been useful. Will probably offload but keen on some @UTERUS Thomson's track action first if there are thistles up there.
    6 points
  8. A little more progress. The side covers look BOSS!! Just ordered a bunch of other new parts, still a lot to do, all small shit, its just progress trying to figure out exactly what I need to buy. Next step is @kicker dragging his welder around to finish welding all the bits of steel together.
    5 points
  9. SUZUKI A100 I saw this at Kumeu with an 'offers' sign on it but CBF at the time, so grabbed the guys number. Rang him a week later to find he had been dicked about and wanted rid of it so I went and grabbed it. Motor was seized so separated with big hammers, cleaned up barrel and throw a new piston at it. Bike has decided it likes to seize after long periods of WOT. Will throw a bigger main jet at it one day. Is fine around the suburbs.
    5 points
  10. I have a Cigweld 135 also. Had been using sodastream co2 bottles as shielding gas, worked reasonably well. But this week I just picked up one of the Bunnings/Coregas ‘Mig gas’ bottles. Looking forward to not running out of gas so quickly! Seems to weld a little nicer too. Although I’ve only used it to make a mount for a motorcycle exhaust so far. Next step is to borrow some of the washing machine and teach myself to do panel rust repairs on the Austin.
    5 points
  11. Small win... 99% sure I can do my chassis swap as a modified production LVV assessed and not as a scratch built.... A series2 on a later chassis is an example given in this sheet.... https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_02-2018_Modified_Production_&_Scratch-built_Low_Volume_Vehicle_Definitions.pdf That makes me happy.....
    3 points
  12. Right - got more bikes, so updated thread to keep track. SUZUKI SEPIA Suzuki Sepia 2T. Was a sub hundy FB marketplace buy. Added go fast badges and Tongan flag. When it's not carving up the mean streets of Mangere, it's put to use collecting firewood.
    3 points
  13. I couldn't sleep so I carried on with the switch wiring for the cub. Soldered new longer wires on most of the switches in order to avoid having joins midway down. Yes the housings need to be cleaned and polished but that'll happen later I just need to extend the brake switch wiring and thats the controls done. I've kept the brake switch wires separate in case it ever needs to be replaced
    3 points
  14. One thing did bug me though, with the headlight on there was no tail light only brake would illuminate. Got home today to check bulb and looks someone in the past has jammed a 21w/12v bulb in there. Which was a single filament and double contact bulb lol. Will get the correct 6v bulb and then everything should work properly haha.
    3 points
  15. Definitions of what is scratch built has changed last year https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_02-2018_Modified_Production_&_Scratch-built_Low_Volume_Vehicle_Definitions.pdf
    2 points
  16. Taken the dive and have got a Cigweld 135 on order (store had ran out, but have ordered one in at the sale price for me). Next question, which may sound daft, where does one get sheet metal from? I see Mitre 10 and Bunnings have some, but seems very limited in gauge and material choice.
    2 points
  17. Slowly ticking small jobs off the list. Got speakers in front and rear in the factory locations. Did an LED dash light swap. Which doesn’t make a lot of difference to the dash lights themselves. But the illumination is now clearer and has a whiter glow to it vs the amber glow normal bulbs have. Also got some steely rims sorted that seem to work for me at the moment. shes due for a wof. Couple little things I wanna sort while it’s up on the hoist. But it’s mostly up to the fun stuff now. Really wanna set of wiper louvres. But I haven’t seen any anywhere for years.
    2 points
  18. I hit a bit of a brick wall with progress because at some point I want to paint the engine bay and underside, and was trying to do things in a way which meant I could get that done, get the engine sorted and painted and in for good and then do things like make the exhaust afterwards Then I realised that was stupid and I was wasting time mucking around trying to figure out things with the engine on the stand, and whacked the motor and box back in . I need to get everything done then I'll take it apart for paint last Shifter mounted, i wanted it up high so it's not far from the steering wheel to the shifter, @RXFORD/matt from tin tricks helped me out again with that by folding up a shifter mount and putting some fancy holes in it And put the carb and hat on, the bonnet doesnt shut so I'll have to figure out what I'm going to do with that
    2 points
  19. This is my '51 Chevrolet Pickup. I finally got some motivation to work on it after owning it for about 5 years. I bought it back in 2010 with help from my parents, when I was 14 turning 15. It was 100% stock, farm spec when we got it. Was originally from Bakersfield, CA. Had the straight-6 blue-flame engine which has been sold. Currently sitting on a jaguar front end and Holden LSD rear end. It's the longwheel base model, which I wasn't too much of a fan of, but it is growing on me. The extra long tray has been good for storing parts and boxes. Has hardly any major rust, just a hole is the passenger's foot well were the heater was leaking. The plan is to keep the body as is, slam it more with airbags, and chuck in a v8 (probably a 1UZ) Already have new rubbers, chrome badges, handles etc and airbag kit. Next major task will probably be to c-notch both the front and rear to get it sitting where I want / as low as the ground will let me. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/47317-matts-1951-chevy-pickup-discussion/
    1 point
  20. Nice work man! I really like the Gbox cross member
    1 point
  21. Orrrr you could use a P38. 108" wheelbase The best diffs, motor, gearbox Cheap
    1 point
  22. Another small job I wanted to take on whilst the car was in bits, was to check the valve clearances. I had no history of it being done, and its a fairly important thing to check on these engines, and not hard to do. Valve clearance is the small gap that must exist between the rocker arm and the top of the valve stem. This gap allows for expansion of the parts as they heat up (mainly the valve), so that there isn't either excessive space between the two (valve won't open as far or as long, and will make a loud tapping noise) or too little (valve may not close, and can result in a burnt valve). Some engines have the means to self adjust, usually via a hydraulic lifter (those things that make Mitsis go "tick tick tick"), but on these older engines (and even some modern engines, like Hondas) the clearances were a scheduled service item and needs to be checked and corrected. On this engine it's nice and easy to access with the intake piping out of the way. It's just a matter of removing the valve covers, of which mine were leaking anyway. It turns out that a few of the valve cover bolts weren't even finger tight, so no wonder the oil was getting through the gasket! With the covers off, you need to use a socket and ratchet to rotate the engine so that the crank timing mark lines up with TDC on the front pointer. If its correct, you should find that No 5 cylinder valves are "rocking" and this is when you measure No 1 cylinder clearances. "Rocking" is the term for when you watch the rockers on that cylinder and you will see the both are at the same height, but if you rock the crank one way, one rocker will push down slightly, and if you rock it the other way, the other rocker will push down. Ford Cologne engines are a little special, so the layout isn't quite what you expect. Take note of the layout of the intake and exhaust valves, they aren't always in the same order. The clearances should be as follows. These are done on a cold engine (about 20c ideally). The exhaust has a bigger clearance due to the additional heat the valve is subjected to. When checked with a feeler gauge, there should be a slight drag on the blade, but not too tight, or too loose. You kinda just do it by feel and get to know what it should feel like When one cylinder is done, check the list to see what rockers will be rocking next and turn the crank (in the direction of normal rotation) until those rockers rock, and check the clearances on the opposing cylinder in the list. Easy. If any of them need adjusting, there will be a screw on the opposite end of the rocker, that either needs to be loosened or tightened to open or close the gap. Most cars have a locking nut to stop it rotating, but the Cologne doesn't, so turning the screw will adjust it, and it self locks. Mine were very tight, so I used a six sided socket and rachet to turn them. A little goes a long way though, so sometimes even a slight tweak of the screw will be the difference between loose, and the right amount of drag. Five of six cylinders had valves that were too tight to get the blade into, and one cylinder was loose as a goose. I don't know what this means, hopefully it isn't a sign of valve recession due to a lack of lead, but time will tell. It could also just be bad adjustment from a previous mechanic....
    1 point
  23. The Mcleans Island Vintage machinery club had its annual show this weekend just gone, It seemed rude not to attend. Ill post pics here, in the tractor thread, and or in the wombling Barry thread. In the show, standing proud Pushed some dirt. Had some sharns.
    1 point
  24. Used to be red. Because Red is faster. Pretty keen on swapping over to the Mazda front end, Saw the chrome Mazda grill on Tard me, and it seems to be just a bonnet swap to make the Mazda grill work. Will know more when I get the donor. And the bonnets have to come off anyway. Rained off work today. So was able to sus a few things. I currently don't have a car with a tow ball. So the first mission was sussing something that can tow a car trailer. And a car trailer. Luckily my brother to the rescue. Has a towbar on his Toyota work shitter. V6 3L Avalon. Not the ideal tow vehicle. But better than none. And booked a trailer with the boys at Tool Hire Taranaki for Tuesday arvo. (Gotta time in with my brother's shift work, my own work, and the owner of the donors work hours) Think I might prep and underbody seal the engine bay while the motor is out. Attempt to get another 30 years out of it. Not overly worried about looks. I quite like the idea of patina rust repairs going on because work ute. And if I do the engine bay now. I shouldn't have to touch it again. (famous last words)
    1 point
  25. Learnt a lot in the past month and a bit. Main thing being that you should probably lube your fuel injector o-rings when you go to put them back in. Got the engine running, was only running on half the cylinders. Discovered there was no fuel going to the rear half cylinders, so decided to pull out the injectors. Took them into town and put them on an injector tester and nothing happened. Was told they can gunk up after sitting for awhile. So went off back home and gave them a spray with some cleaner and smashed them on the ground until they started clicking freely again with power to them. Got them all sounding really good, so in they went (without any lube, thinking back it should of been something that should of come to mind, but I guess I was just in a rush to get it running!), as they went in they must of torn the o-rings. I got the intake and everything back on and together and we started it up again. Ran mint!! So turned it off to see how it would start again, flat battery. Chucked the charger on, and then decided we'd put the wheels on, piece it a bit more together and go for a drive up the driveway. By time we got it together and off the hoist, a few hours had past and so had a decent amount of fuel past the o-rings and into cylinder no.5. Cranked it over and it didn't want to start very easily, so gave it a few more attempts and finally started up with a lovely knocking noise! We thought maybe it was just something loose in the bellhousing, as when we first started it we quickly realised there were no bolts in the flex plate to the torque converter. Anyway drove it up and down the driveway and then back on to the hoist. Decided over Christmas we'd pull out the transmission to have a look in there, other than the weights on the flex plate being ripped off by the torque converter there was nothing that obvious. Started the engine without the trans in and it still had the knock, which was a disappointment. Our neighbours Tony and Jason, who are a bit more mechanically minded came over on Boxing day after hearing that it wasn't transmission related, and went over everything they could think of. Eventually after a good few hours we narrowed it down and decided to check how high each piston is coming up by sticking a threaded rod with a nut on it and turning the engine over by hand. Got around to cylinder no.5 and it was about 5-6mm lower than the rest. Was obvious at this stage that we had a bent rod that was caused by hydraulicing the engine with fuel. Out came the engine, onto a stand, flipped over and then pulled the sump off. It was pretty bent! The crank smashed up the bottom of the piston, but other than the rod and piston everything else looked good. The engine is now at the rebuilders and injectors have been professionally cleaned with new o-rings. The buggered o-rings on the injectors. Since I had awhile off work over Christmas and the engine debacle halted progress a bit, we decided it was a good time to sand out all the runs in the clearcoat and give it another couple of coats with some flatter clear since I wasn't quite happy with the last stuff I used. Used some PPG autothane clear with flattening base in it this time. Was way easier to spray, looks waaaaay better, a lot smoother and a more consistent flatness. Also the extra coats covered the rust up a bit more, as before it didn't seem to be covered well in the rusty areas. With the engine out it was a good time to go through and tidy up a few things. Made up some stainless heatshields that cover the wiring on one side and the fuel and brake lines on the other. Also wrapped some of the exhaust in heat wrap to try and help keep some heat away. Ignore the plastic cable ties, the ones that came with the wrap were too short, and I'll change them soon. After trying to drain the coolant I decided it'd much easier if there was a drain plug, rather than having to disconnect a hose and having it run straight onto a crossmember. Next thing to do was sort out the fuel filler. Turned out the u-bends I bought for the headers were the correct size I needed, so took one of them, cut it to fit and welded a breather pipe on the side. Made a stainless pipe that goes from the 1 5/8" u-bend to 2" on the tank. Also added some gas struts to the rear bed lift up part. Whilst under the rear end noticed the rear airbags were only mounted on the bottom with bolts and no washers. This was mostly because the mount was so close to the diff tube and the airbag mounting holes had quite a small PCD, you couldn't fit much else in there. Came up with these plates that mount to the airbags with a countersunk screw and then have the studs stick through the outer of the slotted hole in the diff mount. Heaps of room to get a nyloc nut and washer now. Was running out of stuff that I could think of to do, so my Dad made a start planing and fitting the Matai wood planks that I bought quite a while ago. Fitted in they looked a bit weird being natural, too bright or something. Had some Japanese stain lying around that we tried and I quite liked it. So went and wiped that all over it once it was fitting well. Then wiped over some Scandinavian oil and came it out really nice. Got the windows installed, he still needs to come back and finish them off. The front window stainless trim doesn't fit as well as I'd hope it would, sorta sticks out a bit, but we're sure it's in there properly. Probably a combination of the crappy re-pro rubber and trim not being 100% right to start with, as I've heard of a heap of people having troubles with windscreen rubbers not fitting nicely on these. Supposed to be taking this to Nats in less than 6 weeks hahaha
    1 point
  26. Went and painted the seat frame and the interior window frames. Terrible photo but came out really well. Awhile ago I made some stainless steel bracket things to hold the airlines down. Did some others to fit further along the chassis but they didn't work well enough so I think I'll just use some P clips. Mounted the airbag height sensors on the 4-link bars. Got them pretty good to the movement needed throughout travel, but then I jacked it up with the airbags inflated and the diff drops further than what the bags pump it up, so it was pulling on the sensors a little. To fix that I made some travel limit straps and got them sewed at a local auto interior shop. These also helped with the rear brake hose that goes from the diff to chassis as there was just too much travel for it. Now that every thing chassis fab related was done (that I know of for now) it was time to strip everything off to the bare chassis. A few hours later and... Now the cab was off it was a good time to sort out the battery tray that I bought in from america to replace the rusty on that was originally there. Once I got the old one off I decided that it would be better to just make a box that bolts in there instead. So drew one up and made it from some 2.5mm ali. Hoping that I can either fit one really big battery or a couple of smaller ones in there, so one can run the air compressors. Flipped the chassis and started to finish welding all the little bits I never fully welded previously, until I ran out of argon, so I made a start sanding it all back and then I ran out of sanding disks for now. I can't decide on what colour to paint the chassis, will be a gloss or metallic of some sort and the front and rear end will most likely be gloss black. So far the decision is gloss black (everyone does that though) a darkish grey either metallic or just 2k. Also have thought about going all out and doing something like purple flake, but I feel like it would just be wasted as hardly any of the chassis will be visible and will cost a bit more.
    1 point
  27. These updates are getting a bit big, should really post more frequently. Made a new badge for the front of the heater since the old one wasn't in the greatest condition. Think it came out pretty good, but I reckon it could be better. Will give the low areas a paint and see how it looks. These are the dies I used to press it. Here's the finished thing made from 0.7mm stainless. Got the parts back from chroming. Shoutout to Wanganui electroplating for not charging for them to be done. My parents had some bumpers there to be done as well. The ashtray is a bit pitted but the raised bits aren't too bad and I was thinking of painting the low stripes anyway, so should look fine. Discovered there was no gap for the seat belts to fit between the seat, so bent up some 10mm steel tube and welded together some ovals for them to pass through. Made some new ecu mounts. Spent more time drawing up the triangle cutouts to look right than anything else. Couldn't quite get enough length from the wiring to mount them all the way back as I would of liked, but this will do. Took the rear fenders off the bed and took them, the runningboards, splash aprons and a couple of bonnet latch panels to the sandblasters. They did a good job so looks like it will be staying patina for a bit longer haha. Primed them all up on the weekend, would be soooo much easier if I was painting the whole truck! Sprayed some paint on today, pretty happy with how it turned out! Will be undersealing the fenders and running boards but gave them a quick spray with what I had left over. Was going to strip apart the front clip to take to the sandblasters, but decided not to as I still needed to finish the cutouts in the inner guards for the engine, as this was way easier to get right as one piece. Will sorta look like this except the bottom profile will have more of a "S" shape to it. Going to be a lot of work but hopefully should be able to blend it all in nicely.
    1 point
  28. My parents arrived back from America with all the bits I ordered. It was a little less exciting as I thought it would be, it's basically just a bunch of rubbers and screw/bolt sets haha. I also got them to pick up a pair of Classic Instrument gauges whilst they were over there. They were so expensive, but definitely way better looking and higher quality than most of the other types out there. Folded up a bit of sheet for the c-notch cover And also laser cut out the hinges for the back of the bed. Then decided how to make them pivot and turned up some bosses and sleeves. Need to get a better tap, a couple bolts and a some nylon washers to finish it off.
    1 point
  29. Made a start on the bed over the past week, first thing was to remove all the old brackets and supports. They were a bitch to remove since they were spot welded ever 150mm or so and you couldn't see where the spot welds were, eventually got there after doing 1/4 of them each day after work. Decided to put the c-notch up through the deck because I think they look terrible with a raised deck with hardly any depth. After that I made up a frame out of 40x40 box section that fits on top of where the original wood would of sat. That means the deck will be about 40mm higher than standard, which is good because it will hide all the rust/corrosion behind where the old brackets were removed. Need to sandblast/paint where those brackets were and everywhere below the box section and fix the rust up the front of the tray. Was thinking of making the whole deck lift up so you can access stuff underneath it, but I couldn't figure an easy way to do the hinges. Then I realised I only really need to access the airbag stuff and the fuel tank so I'll just make the back third lift up. Made a mock-up in Solidworks to test how the hinging works. The pivot point needs to be above the wooden boards so that they clear the c-notch panel when it lifts up. Seems like it works well, can lift up to 60 degrees before it hits.
    1 point
  30. Redone the gusset on the front end because I wasn't happy with how it looked, should be much stronger now. Made a start on the handbrake linkage thing. Used some $2.50 block bearings from aliexpress, as I was not keen on paying over $100 for two in NZ that weren't even the right size (needed 12mm ID ones and apparently 12mm is a very uncommon bearing size) so would of had to sleeve 20mm ones to fit. The china ones seem decent enough for what they're being used for. My dad had an aluminium air bag tank that he was planning on using for another car, but it fits this perfectly apart from the mounts being on the back instead of the bottom. So might buy it off him, cut off the mounts and re-weld them in the correct place. Made up some more plates for seat belt mounts, this time for the floor. The retractor bolts onto the back and then the lap belt bolts on to the part sticking out. Also has a doubler plate underneath the floor with some captive nuts. Stripped everything off the doors to see if they needed any repairs. Yes they did. This is the worst of the two. Was hidden under a rubber seal and the strip that holds it in place. Left side door isn't as bad but still needs some patches as there was a few rust holes. Found some on the outside skin which is a bit annoying, but the patch shouldn't be too visible anyway. My parents are heading off to America soon so I made up a list of all the parts I need. Everything is so cheap but it adds up quickly. Hopefully it will all fit in their suitcases.
    1 point
  31. Made some brackets to mount the valves. For some reason the holes ended up too far out so had to slot them a little. They're held in with countersunk screws so it's all still flush underneath (not that anyone will be able to see underneath anyway haha). Played around a bit with the location for a while and decided this was the best. Wasn't really enough room for the compressor to fit in between. Will mount a compressor on each side of the bed, just above the exhaust area. Back to fitting and fixing the rust in the dash now. Cut out the good/un-butchered section of the dash that some idiot tried fitting a commodore cluster in. Glad to finally throw this shit out! Pic for motivation
    1 point
  32. Longest exhaust build ever! What a stupid idea it was to design it like this haha. So far has 5 pairs of flanges on each side if you include the ones at the end of the headers. Will have another pair after the diff as well. Got some flexi's and welded them in, as well as the rest of it. Need to put the tray back on now and see where the rest of the exhaust can run out the back. Made some mounts, after making them incorrectly to start with. Had the rubber hanging under tension where-as it should be compressing, otherwise it would most likely tear the rubber in half. Also made some gussets for the 4 link brackets since they didn't quite look strong enough. Might make some to tie in the other side as well. Need to make a start on the fuel tank soon. Any recommendations on an in-tank fuel pump to use? Don't really know much about them, 255LPH should be enough? Tank will be about 220mm deep if that matters.
    1 point
  33. Got just a few flanges laser cut. Got most of the exhaust tacked together. Couldn't pull out the part with the resonators so they're going to need a couple more flanges welded on either side. Looks so good though! Will it need any flexi's up the front? I'm thinking it will be mounted at the front of the resonators and at the back where the shock mounting bar is with some quite stiff rubber mounts. A package finally arrived from America. New floor panels!
    1 point
  34. Got the cab back from sandblasting. Has also been etch primed. They did a very good job of it. Patch panels for the right hand side floor should be here in the next week or two. Made up a plate to replace the door hinge captive nuts that were turning. Plug welded it in. Pic for thread because these updates aren't that exciting and so I don't forget how cool this will look once it's done.
    1 point
  35. A little more rust fixed. Getting good at it now!
    1 point
  36. Today I pulled out all the stuff from behind the dash, chucked the seat back in and temporary mounted a Commodore brake booster/master cylinder along with the accelerator and brake pedals. The firewall now has an excessive amount of holes. Will definitely be welding most of them up. My Dad didn't believe me that the dash was spot welded in all the way along the top, so out came the windows. Really not looking forward to trying to remove the dash, if I decide it needs to come out, otherwise I'll just chop it up and weld it in place so it can be RHD. Little bit of rust in the lower windscreen corners, but not too bad.
    1 point
  37. Swapped the old commodore driveshaft for a station wagon one which is slightly longer and pretty much the perfect length. So then picked up a new yoke and universal joint to mate up to the transmission. Even clears the floor by ~2mm! Made a driveshaft mount to dummy it up, which worked alright but the driveshaft angled quite a lot when the bags are right down. Need to make another that's about 30mm higher. Running gear basically complete!
    1 point
  38. Was told to change the 4-link bushes from the rubber ones to some spherical rod ends, as the previous ones loosen the locking nut when the diff twists and the spherical ones allow more twist. Had some spacers spun up out of aluminium, hopefully they don't clunk too much. Also started designing an Aluminium fuel tank.
    1 point
  39. RUST! Was just getting worse so I decided I should probably fix it. As you can see this panel has been painted quite a few times; Original brown, then yellow, blue, another coat of blue and then red haha So stripped it all back to bare metal. Did the valance as well, since that had some decent stone chips etc. Just two bits of rust to fix now; a hole under the wiper motor and a bit under the fuel flap. Not looking forward to trying to fix them.
    1 point
  40. Installed some MRP RCAs and some rear superlow springs which made it higher, so now has even more rake than before haha. Will get them compressed once they have settled a bit. Got sick of the tires rubbing on the plastic inner guards, so pulled them off. Also rolled the guards and then undercoated everything to try and prevent rust. No longer rubs at all, so that only means it needs to go lower!
    1 point
  41. Did a little photoshoot
    1 point
  42. Rush Automotive headers arrived today, so nice! The swap might potentially happen next weekend or the week after.
    1 point
  43. The chassis is now fully welded. It is so much stronger now, hardly twists at all. This is the design I've come up with so far. I was thinking of using 1.25 inch round tubing and getting it all cut out on the tube laser we have at work. It will be double layer like the last image, so there's room for the exhaust etc to go through. In-between will be hoops for the drive shaft as well. Does it sound like a good idea?
    1 point
  44. Cut up some plates to fit up to the front crossmember, drilled some holes for the bolts that the front end mounts with. Close-tacked all along the top and down the joins, just need to tack along the bottom. Then I can start the long process of tig welding it all together.
    1 point
  45. Picked up a pair of SSR Star Sharks in Taupo thanks to kp_james for bringing them. They're 13x6's with I think +11 offset. Gave them a polish and they came up quite nice. I have another pair on there way from Japan, which should hopefully arrive soon. Will the current 175/70 tyres look alright on them? Or would it be better with some lower profile ones? Got a 4K from James as well. I am keen to rebuild it and get a bit more power out of it, but I don't really know where to start, so any suggestions on what to do? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48889-matts-81-kp60-starlet-discussion/
    1 point
  46. Not very much progress has happened in the past months; Gave the Jag front end a good clean, cut off a few bits and decided how to mount it. Goes low enough with out cutting chunks out of the chassis or front end, which is good. Bought an engine this week as well. A lot of people won't be too happy with the choice but it was really cheap and already has been rewired to suit a project like this. It's a Nissan VH41. Gave it a steam clean today and come out much better. Was covered in dust. Test fitted it and it seems to fit quite nicely, except the inner guards might need some work. Keen to get rid of that ugly spider looking thing and get some ITB's on there. Tell me how I should have bought a LS and spent ~10x as much to get it going: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/47317-matts-1951-chevy-pickup-discussion/
    1 point
  47. Finally got the c-notch pieces laser cut. So we pulled off the tray and started stripping it back.
    1 point
  48. I took it to a test day at Manfeild. It only lasted for about ~10mins of thrashing before it lost power and then started to knock as I was rolling into the pits haha. I wasn't really surprised that it only lasted that long tbh. Oh well. It was a good excuse to swap in a blacktop for more dooortz! Started to sand it back for a full respray since the colour is pretty yuck. Scored some fixed back bucket seats and a Nardi steering wheel off my brother.
    1 point
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