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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/02/19 in all areas

  1. Cab off and away last night for wood rot repair. We are thinking of not painting the cab until after it's re-registered so the chassis tag & WOF sticker etc are undisturbed to make the process as smooth as possible. Now that it's short enough it can fit in the garage and we can hoist the engine out & get the chassis cleaned up. Keen to do some laps in its current state!
    10 points
  2. i havent posted any car ramblings in a rather long time.been here, there and everywhere. but since being home my daily morphed into something rather obscure. its been a long journey to this point with alot yet to come, many good times with much heart ache. one of the earliest photos moving things around when i got home this is the last trip it made with r160 rear end, but did have fc rx7 front end by this point many many axles and 3 gearboxes later i had to do what i do best and go way overboard so changed to a 6 speed box when all this went in and now it should last alot longer. felt reall good on track now it awaits me getting enough spare space for a long enough period of time to get design approval for cert and then have Clint come back and give me a big list to rectify. its been fun but there is a little car that some may remember that needs love again
    8 points
  3. Well its been a while since I've updated this thread. Mid July was where I last posted up anything of worth. Little Imp got parked up in the corner of the workshop so leaving anough space for our neighbours to make use of the shed while we took off to England for a decent holiday. Hannah got to catch up with her family, we both did heaps of cycling and running, had plenty of sunshine and beer plus I got to go along to the retro-rides gathering 2019! As I always do I had a fantastic time there and came away with boosted Mojo and lots of ideas. Before leaving the UK I ordered a few spare parts for the Imp... We got back to NZ in September, just in time for the start of spring. The Imp was sitting there tucked away, a tiny little puddle of oil under the sump just like a good little English car should have... First job was to fit the shiny new lenses. Hannah jumped straight into that, an easy but so very satisfying job to do... We then took the steering rack out and fitted the new centre gaitor. Hooray for a rack that holds oil... Having decided I was pretty happy with where the temp gauge needle sits once fully warmed up I carefully measured the resistance across the potentiometer I'd been using to adjust it. I then made a little joining lead fitted with a resistor of the same value. This replaced the adjustable item and should be it for the temp gauge. At some point in the future I may well make a new instrument cluster to suit the dash as I rather fancy having a rev counter in a place that I can actually see it ok. We have been driving the Imp since getting back to NZ as much as possible. On its first journey out since back I got this pic... We've had a few decent trips including a one really neat drive all around the local valley roads and hills, some gravel roads etc. Its so fun to drive. I'm really getting more confident with the handling and how to get the most from it. The engine seems fine and loves a good trashing. The carb is still a bit iffy with that worn out primary spindle still allowing some air to sneak in. I have ordered a new carb from China and will see how it goes. It was cheap enough to try and when I eventually fit injection I can sell the carb on. Whilst out on that really fun drive I got this photo. Shame I only had my phone as the sky was quite moody... After lots of driving I checked the plugs. They look fine with what I think looks to be a good colour... I thought it better to fit the fire extinguisher I bought before our holiday. It tucks away neatly behind the drivers seat... In other news I have been collecting many different parts needed for a conversion to fuel engine management. I just scored another megasquirt one (2.2) ecu plus a full loom and some edis bits - this time from our mate Rob in return for me doing some machining work for him... I need to decide on a few bits needed and also in which direction to go for the inlet layout. Maybe Itbs but maybe a plenum with a single tb. I foolishly dillydallied about when there was a full set of cbr900 ITBs on trademe for $55 including injectors and loom and subsequently missed out on them. At the time I wasn't sure about the suitability but for that money I could have made them work. Not sure on ideal throttle size but they were 40mm each which given the Datsun only has 30mm inlet valves I figure they'd have been plenty. Then I would have had all of the doorts! I'll keep looking... I'll be using a 36-1 trigger wheel, also supplied by Rob. Luckily there is ample room to mount it on the back of the main pulley. Both MS1 ecus I now have use the earlier version 2.2 board which don't have built in VR conditioner circuits. I can make a VR conditioner board and use VR sensor, of which I have many. Or I could use the Edis setup (which has a VR conditioner built in and uses a VR sensor) that came with the MS1, of which I suspect the ECU has been supplied already configured to use. I have never used Edis before. Hmmmm? Its a bit ugly and clunky though. I dont like the quite large ignitor box I'd have to sit somewhere. Or I can go with a Hall sensor but then I'll have to locate one from a wreckers- but what car? As usual I want to do this conversion as cheaply as possible because its just more satisfying for me that way. In my first few casual searches it seems that they are quite pricey and can be a bit frail or temperamental in use? More research is needed, of which I must say I do find to be one of the most fun parts of modifying! Oh also - I fitted a new speedo cable and now have a speedo needle that doesnt wibble-wobble all over the place. How thoroughly modern!
    5 points
  4. Being a bit useless at keeping updates on track I realised that it's nearly 6 months since the last update. In short, the roof lining is in, looks 7 out of 10 and I should have got it done by someone who knows what they are doing. New reproduction bumpers bought and fitted (over-riders in the front and centre section of the rear are the originals re-chromed). Cold air box built and installed. Steering installed, rack fitted with new boots, cleaned and painted,with the original bus sized steering wheel I don't think the steering will be too heavy. I am having a couple of days away at Ohakune with the family and took a trip up to Horopito and got a replacement gutter trim to replace the one I destroyed with the polisher (that will get its own post), knobs for the heater and vents for the demister. Time now to start knocking off the half finished jobs, run some fuel lines and sort out the wiring. Make noise!!!!! Photos to come.
    4 points
  5. For sale Facebook Market Place one Sunroof Hole free shipping I am aware of the value of these
    3 points
  6. Suzuki all ways made the most strange little muffler things for the MX and trail bikes, I found this stainless steel thing, I will pack some scotch brights inside,
    3 points
  7. Carried on shaping and sticking on the badges, originally for the early CBs with the square shape tank but I liked them so much I picked up a replica metal set and stuck them on. Was going to paint the badges but like the raw alloy look so gave them a coat of Matt clear to keep them crisp. Drilled holes in the clip ons and feed the wires through for the controls, now on to the major wiring to make sure everything works like it should. Fitted up the gear linkage I got from AliExpress, so mint! A tad short which was completely my fault as a don’t know how I got the measurement wrong but hey it works! Next is to build an exhaust which doesn’t hit the rearsets!!
    3 points
  8. Yip big one with hydraulic wrench and 30+ bolts takes about 3-4 hours with two people other one is 12 bolts (cheat and use a rattle gun for most of it) and then swing on a 800Nm wrench after
    3 points
  9. Gtfo rusty leaky sunroof Just a quick spray of colour to seal the primer. I'll give it a sand on the weekend and I'll go back next week to get the rear bumper and the roof painted. I'll do the sanding to save a bit of money
    3 points
  10. Bosozukodozer the barry aggravator
    3 points
  11. Not favourable. When I was leaving I almost drove through the sandwiches and tea area, many many disapproving looks were metered out. Edit. Barry on the left in the sharn pic liked the star. He said it made it stand out and was amazed what an effective muffler it was.
    3 points
  12. Mmmm, boost ports....mmmmm 3 of them.... plus extra large transfer ports making this a 5 intake port motor, all nicely port matched with good flow. Compared to a standard cylinder with only 2 transfer ports.
    2 points
  13. I just got this done during the last 4hrs: Roughly ground in with a dremel, then I tidied it up by sandblasting it. Came out pretty nice I think. Bearings will be replaced...don't panic...
    2 points
  14. The Mcleans Island Vintage machinery club had its annual show this weekend just gone, It seemed rude not to attend. Ill post pics here, in the tractor thread, and or in the wombling Barry thread. In the show, standing proud Pushed some dirt. Had some sharns.
    2 points
  15. Waiting on parts to finish the throttle & plenum setup. so pulled the radiator and intercooler out to modify the intercooler pipe. Then went full retard and cut up the radiator. cut a bit off the end and relocated the outlet pipes Why? more room for other stuff and that part of the radiator was mostly blocked off from airflow anyways. Redone the turbo side pipe, as well as the inlet side. the pile of pipes at bottom of pic is the old stuff that come off it. Yep that cast elbow looks horrible for flow ^ thats why i chopped it up, so goes from 2.5" to about same area as 3" pipe. The intercooler is on the list to go in the bin. because is heavy and junk. I brought the cheapest one i could get when originally built the truck. Staying for now but will go to a tube and fin one day. 2.5" hot side 3" cold side. old was 2.5" . even though the pipe is bigger have cut the length down quite a bit. so probably sill less area in the pipework than the old setup
    2 points
  16. Update time. Firstly there will be no more juggling around shuffling stuff to get the Imp on the hoist, or having to drive it down the slippery grass drive that heads to the back of the workshop to get it onto the hoist. We have the workshop back after having finished building this cabin on wheels. We delivered it to its new home where the owner will continue with the build , fitting windows, door and lining it out. It was a fun job but took up a big chunk of space. Well until we start the next build. We will have a 8 metre trailer to build for ourselves soon once we sell the housetruck. So we could now relax and enjoy the Imp. A few little jobs completed and a fair few miles clocked up. Most important thing to sort out was a leak from the nearside transaxle output shaft. After getting back from the trip to Blenheim it was discovered that oil was coming out from what I thought was the seal and getting spun out off the coupling, marking a perfect line of oil inside the engine bay. So the car ended up in this position getting its trans fluid drained. I removed the shaft, doubled checked the seal land which was fine, checked and tightened the seal by cutting a few mm from its spring because it just didn't feel quite tight enough on the shaft. I also checked the shaft too. The early Imps have a splined shaft that the output spider slides onto and is held on by a large nut. The design went through two revisions ending up with the later shafts being a factory press fit and no nut. I was sure that my late type was fine and solid but just to be sure I cleaned and siliconed the end of the shaft visible from outside. Just in case... Put it all back together, a few drives and the leak was still there. After some advice from a fella on the Imp forum I took the shaft out again and checked it in the vice. It was indeed loose. Loose enough that it could move in and out slightly and had broken the silicone bond so allowing oil to creep past the splines and out. It must have been getting worse as the oil was essentially lubricating the once tight fit of the splines. It knocked apart easily, showing the factory O ring fitted before they press them together. Once clean and dry I tried the fit. It was a touch too loose for my liking so out with the JB weld epoxy. It'll never leak again Yesterday we drove to Nelson and back and I'm happy to report that the leak has stopped ! Yay. Now the only real leak is a dribble from the rear main seal on the engine. I'll change that when I change the worn ring gear in the future. Another job was to sort out some sounds. I like my music and not having a sounds system in a car on long trips is annoying. I had already eyed up and sussed where I would mount some speakers. It seems a fairly common place after having looked at other setups out there on Imps. We had scored a JVC headunit from a customer after upgrading their setup. Then we had scored some speakers from a Nissan Bluebird SSS we had been given and passed on but not before robbing its sounds. I also had some ply left over from lining the rear of the Viva wagon floor. So sorted for a cheap as setup. We made some boxes in the sunshine on what was a cold day.... Later on the sun hid behind clouds so all three of us moved over to the warmth of the log fire.... After Hannah covered the boxes in black vinyl I mounted them under the parcel shelves and wired in the head unit, a neat little unit that due to not playing cds is shorter in depth so fitting under the shelf nicely. It all looks neat enough and sounds fine for the size. Just need to find some protective grills to suit those speakers. Next on the list is to get and active sub and mount it under a seat so we can have some fuller, deeper sound. Another job I had planned to do but kept being put off was to hinge the front number plate. I don't want to mount it any higher and block the grill so where it is makes for a great driveway crown sweeper. Driving along our 500m long stone driveway in a lowered Imp with an even lower number plate gets tiring! So I did this... I'll report back with whether it also swings back at 170mph so avoiding speed camera tickets. The other night we had a lovely sunset and the Imp was looking resplendent in the light. I took a photo.. Next jobs to do are fit some carpet and I'm still really keen on pursuing building a full EFI setup. But its going to be a very busy summer for us so that will have to be a project I pursue in the evenings. Alex
    2 points
  17. I did have a thread for this, but it didn't get worked on for several years, and I think it has gone. So, start again. (Picture here of Datsun when I first got it if I can find one) I have/had (depending how you look at it) a 1985 Datsun 720 4wd. It was gutless, it had rust, so it was a Datsun (not a Nissan haha). I thought I would pull it apart for some rust repairs and paint, that was (too) many years ago, it snowballed, I ended up disassembling the suspension, driveline, painting a lot of things, modifying the gearbox to accept an RB, bla bla bla. Then this year, I had been chipping away at it, I had finished study and finally had a decent job. And one day as I was doing something I looked at it and decided I wasn't going to be happy with it when it was done if I continued down the path I was on. I couldn't add too much power or things would explode. I couldn't get aftermarket parts to improve things like ride height and driveability (not easily or cheaply anyway). So I thought, "stuff it", and decided to just do what I wanted in the first place, and had always said I wouldn't do because of cost essentially, but yeah, now I'm just going to be irresponsible for a bit and throw money at this thing until it runs and drives and I am happy with it.. So the basic equation is: GQ/Y60 Patrol chassis and suspension, diffs etc. 4" suspension lift and all the goodies that go with that. + RD28 gearbox from RD28 factory patrol. + RB25DET from your friendly neighbourhood Ceffydrift/Skidline. + Datsun 720 King Cab body, with factory body mount points, adapt the chassis to suit. + 33x12.5 R15 tyres on -22 offset 15x8 steel wheels. + Flat deck because practicality (I do want to use this thing once it is done)/ease of adaptation to Patrol chassis, and adaptation to toolboxes etc. = Profit??? /more likely major losses. But profit in happiness. Have done some work so far, but a lot of time/money has gone into setting up my shed to make this project as easy/efficient as possible. I modified the roof in the shed: (Ignore thee strange writing on the walls, it's an old farm shed that has slowly been modified to be my garage, there are lots of .22 sized holes in the walls, and there were gas lines in the ground when we dug it out to put in the floor) So I could install a hoist, which has multiple uses: Lift it up to put it on a dolly, damn these things weigh a whole lot. On a dolly next to the gearbox from the Datsun with an RB25 front housing swapped onto it. Slight size difference. Patrol chassis in place. RD28 gearbox. Unfortunately this chassis originally had a TD42 (which it didn't come with, but there was no way I could use anyway as it was waaaaaaaaay too big), so the driveshafts don't work, but will have a look to see if Beattys Drivelines have any listings or if I can source replacement entire driveshafts to suit. Nissan Lego! With the body in about the only place it will go, i.e. engine will fit behind radiator support with radiator under the panel, gearstick in a useable position, etc. Will likely need to cut and box the firewall/tunnel. Had to cut out this bit as well as some of the seat support to let the transfer case shifter come through. With that cut out the shifter comes through the factory shifter hole, bit further back than normal, but still very useable, and with a slight tweak to the actual shifter the transfer case shifter will work fine and not rub on the passenger seat. The picture above is with the shifter in 4th so that is as close as it gets/have checked it in all gears. Currently tidying the rear diff: Painted in POR15, will get new rotors and rebuilt calipers shortly. Then will go back in once I buy the last pieces of the rear suspension lift, which will give me enough time to tidy/paint the rear of the chassis. Has an LSD which seems to be in good condition, which will do until it is on the road and then I can think about an air locker. Went to Auckland the other day, got some tyres from @Stu, bloody nice guy, nice to meet you in real life after all these years of seeing you on forums. Sharp price too. Pictured here with my parents flash new couch and a whole bunch of new free diving gear, was an expensive day all up haha. (Please excuse the twist in the tie down, I know, I'm embarrassed for me too) If you are thinking: "Gee, that looks like a fairly low offset wheel, and you are already putting them on a chassis that was designed for a significantly wider than the body than what is going back on it, are they going to fit?" Then the answer is "Yes?" Gonna have to make/buy (I don't know of any 200mm ish wide you can buy?) some fairrrrrrlllllllyyyy hectic flares, but I really don't want to reduce the offset, so that is what I am sticking with until such a time that I may be forced to do otherwise. They should be fine this way, will just be a case of trimming the sheet metal to suit. Look, honestly, if this were an exercise completely in practicality, then I would have failed. But mostly it's an exercise in "I do what I want", then deal with the fallout. So I call that a win! I get my new welder this week (HF TIG, MIG, Arc w/ spool gun) so looking forward to having a play with that, and potentially making a start on the design for the chassis to body mounts/posts, will make up something up then get them ok'ed by my local certifier and welded up fully by a mate I hope, my welds aren't up to crucial parts like this and I feel like there are better places to practice on. At the moment it is sitting on the hoist with the chassis on axle stands. I will make a discussion thread shortly and link to it at the top of this post, let me know your thoughts, constructive criticisms etc. I will try to keep this updated, I am good at taking photos of stuff usually as I do it, just terrible at actually putting those pictures up. Cheers, Hayden.
    1 point
  18. No shouldn't need cert if it all bolts up to original anchorages.
    1 point
  19. Not only will this item put a hole in your roof, pricing will also ensure a hole in your wallet
    1 point
  20. Matt at tin tricks in east tamaki is good. 0212174158 He did some work on my car, fixed the floors, made a new inner guard to delete the lumps where the battery was mounted, and deleted the heater holes
    1 point
  21. So this bad boy is all finished just in time for DGR, had a pretty lush day filled with a few ales and some quality @My name is Russell banter. tried to find some penguins to club, couldnt, so got a photo instead when i got home i packed my tent, themarest, sleeping bag and a shit load of clothes into my 40l bag to see how it will sit for east cape, perfect. Gunna be lush to be 100% self sufficient this year yea rad
    1 point
  22. Yeah, his videos came up about the same time I started ordering bits
    1 point
  23. Made this baby walker trainer for my daughters upcoming first birthday. Silloette of my corona painted in its actual paint. I never work with wood so super stoked on how this came out. Kmart fishboard skateboard donated its wheels and that's about all I needed to buy. Bonus is it gave me a chance to test out my new to me, Sata 4000b spray gun. Shit it's awsome! Can't wait to paint to crown with it, colossal step up from the supercheap auto guns...
    1 point
  24. This is a 1350 setup. The cap diameter of the UJ is approx 1 3/16" and the cross is around the 3 5/8" mark, when its fitted. The part number for the UJ is U 1640. This is the cheaper model that features no grease nipple.
    1 point
  25. Looks cool all the info it spits out across 3 screens is handy as well.
    1 point
  26. Big update mostly about clearances. Firstly the Supertrapp reps turned up and wow are they mint! Did a test fit and fired it up which sounded great, stoked!!! Now clearances, looking at a lot of other CB350 builds I always wondered why they added aftermarket headers. With the rearsets I realise that the factory exhaust sits too high so the brake leaver hits the muffler. Also the kick start hits the rearsets too, bit of a cluster really. Gave it a quick tune with the glass plugs, found the 70 idle jet ran too rich so swapped it out for a 68 which helped when tuning with the Air/Fuel mixture screw. Also added in the blue titanium hose clamps round the carbs, kind dig it kinda don’t, they are quite wide so they don’t quite fit. Can see them in this pic. The push button controls turned up for the handle bars too; again quality and feel is immaculate so far, they also did a perfect job of setting up the buttons as some were momentary and others were push on/off. Test fitted them to check and happy with the fit/clearance. I’ll thread the wiring properly down through the handle bars eventually. Realistically this bike won’t be ready for the DGR ride on Sunday so the CB250k is hitting the ride again this year with the DGR headlight stickers to support men’s mental health. Lastly found the winged Honda badges I brought ages ago to stick on the CB350. Factory colour is to fill them in white but I reckon black could be the go. Thanks for looking!
    1 point
  27. Tried that before ending up with the welder - using the angle grinder and file, the nut would always end up rounding off again. However, success was had on Sunday arvo
    1 point
  28. Done a quicky on the painting, minimising the work to get it done, and by done, i mean water proof and ready to roll quick high build prime over the sanded back repaired areas then a blow over with the blue. i mixed a bit much paint and instead of waste it, I got a few sags instead Still, unmasking is just the best Front door bits swapsies. Its surprising how much lighter a car door is without all the trimmings! took bits off all three to make one 'good' one Again, this one fit straight in the hole a treat (after a shim here and a hinge shave there) and now opens and closes the best it ever has so ive decided i quite like the look of these doors and they can stay Tidied out the inside of various mostly empty boxes and various screws, trim and clips, that are now consolidated into one bin Put the grill and headlamp assemblies, nearly all the bulbs now mostly work after a wiggle or a tap. Still a bit of a list of things to do, - Exhaust has a leak, looks easily accessed - handbrake cable buzzes on exhaust - i messed something up when i assembled the rear door, the window snags on the door lock rod when its wound down - sand the runs, flies and dust out the of the paint once it hardens a bit more - polish - clean and install chrome trims I also put the interior of the doors in and gave the dash a wipe. . Looking forward to giving this thing a good blazz again soon! Its mobile and driveable now and only the exhaust really needs sorting for a WoF, and now its together it also means i can start sort a lot of stuff out of the shed and into storage etc
    1 point
  29. Impulse bought KE70 front lip resulted in this, of which I would call a win: 20 mins of cutting and marking and it's sitting pretty good. Just gotta make up some little stainless brackets for the corners, sand, prime, and paint body colour. I'll be painting the bottoms of the guards, and the lower panel to bring them back to life at the same time. I think it gives the car a little more of an aggressive look, and when I drop another 40mm or so out of the front it'll really come into its own and look the part. Time off work is coming up very soon which means I'm able to get across town and have my engine block dipped. Unfortunatley the need for a new phone sets my head rebuild back, but I'm not fussed. I won't be putting the 1G-GE in for quite some time yet, so I'm working more on the car itself. I've been thinking about my auto. I'm not keen to manual swap for a variety of reasons, but the old A42/3 automatics are awful. I had been thinking about adapting an altezza 1G-FE auto to fit, and I think the only hiccup I would encounter is the rear X member. I'm thinking that the late model auto's, especially if sourced from something low kms, would be far smoother. And for the price of them, it would be a far cheaper option than rebuilding what I already have. Let me know if this is a bad idea. Entered in OS Drags too, so hopefully the 1G-E and slushy auto can smash out a sub 30 second run
    1 point
  30. Witchcraft! I just replaced the original fusebox with a new magical one from the future which isn't all hot and melty and gives me more than 9 volts at the headlights! Amaze. Represent. Another year of legality. And since all my thread images are poked, here's one so you and I don't forget what she looks like. <3
    1 point
  31. Only if you mention it in public searchable forums...
    1 point
  32. Kia ora te spanners Your waka will need to be looked at by a certifier , plate removed, sent back to LVVTA who then update landata so it doesnt say its modified any more. Chur Bleh
    1 point
  33. Slow progress, because winter time insanity. Made a prototype for a new gearbox crossmember/mount arrangement. That uses much stiffer bushes and ends up with waayyyyy more ground clearance than the big standard mount. Also, if I got it cast from aluminium the entire assembly is lighter than just the rubber bush part from the standard setup. win. Not sure how to make the final version yet, but it's good to have the gearbox sitting in the right place. And have a decent set of accurate dimensions for making a proper one. Hopefully soon figure out my driveshaft and exhaust situation. I'm on the lookout for a standard 2-1 part of an Altezza exhaust if anyone's got one kicking around?
    1 point
  34. My new radiator turned up on friday from @nick_m at Motorsport Fabrication Services in Christchurch. He made this to custom measurements with custom mount bosses, tags to attach ducting, angled inlet/outlets and a 12" fan mounted in place (not pictured). It's a really nice bit of kit! I highly recommend MFS if you're in need of a radiator or intercooler. We got to work mounting it this weekend. This is what we came up with: And with the radiator in place: The angle of the outlets worked out almost perfect: I think it's starting to look pretty good: .... Hmm, looks like it has angry eyes? Again, huge thanks to @Rhyscar for the fab work and extra brain. I wouldn't have achieved much without him. Next up for fab work is to figure out how to mount the oil cooler and to start thinking about ducting.... But for now it's back to sanding .
    1 point
  35. Took the day off yesterday because i missed the bus, so took this thing down to my usual WoF place. For some reason i only took this blurry potato while it was up on the hoist. GREAT SUCCESS! (one of the two number plate lights blown but he passed it on the basis i would replace it asap) Celebrated by slopping drippy subway all over the seats and my pants ate my lunch watching the kite surfers hoping for a massive tangle up Bought this on the way home too, hopefully slow down the cancer a bit In other WoF advisory related news, changed the brake pads on Lady Azzurro's daily, i think we got our monies worth! And after tidying a lot of crap from on and under this thing, pumped up all the tyres and dropped it off the axle stands for the first time in nearly two years,
    1 point
  36. I’ve made good progress on the right hand tub now. Got most of the finishing and a coat of primer onto it. Then @Rhyscar came around with his tube bender and we started on the new radiator support: This bolts in place on the sides and will have a couple of vertical stays for the radiator and ducting mounts. Popped the guards and bumper back on for a visual inspection: And the new radiator will mount like this: With ducting to take the flow out the bonnet. Woohoo! Now back to body work in the engine bay.
    1 point
  37. September will be two years since I've driven this car... So I've decided that I should get it going and try to race it at the final round of the Manfeild winter series. I've not done a whole lot since 2017 due to general slackness, but have cleaned up a bunch of welds around the tubs. This was about a year ago: Fast forward to this week and I've started doing things again. More weld removal, a few holes welded up, paint removal etc. A bit of filler and the first coat of etch this evening to see how it looks: The underside is still a bit wrinkly, but it's good enough for an inner arch. Now to get the other side. to this level.. I always forget how long it takes to sand filler! It's a pretty painful job . Once both sides are in primer I can give the rest of the bay a good clean up, sand and start thinking about paint.
    1 point
  38. Outer mould patterns finished and ready for printing. 3D printing is good but it also means to have to design the under side! Twice as much work!
    1 point
  39. Temperature has dropped and work has slowed. Have been deliberating over engine choices for aaaaages, was pretty set on running a M104 (basically a Merc RB/JZ), other alternatives included an M271 (supercharged 4 cylinder thing) or an OG M180. I flip flopped for about 18 months until this popped up on trademe for $1 reserve, it's mine now. So I brought a 54 year old engine that 'ran when parked' 20 years ago sight unseen. It's not an L series Datsun donk but rather a Mercedes M180 which is what these cars originally came with. It doesn't look half bad under the rocker cover but even with the plugs out and a bar on the front pulley it has no enthusiasm to turn over so could be seized, more investigating required..
    1 point
  40. Masked up and sprayed the other side and the underside of the floors as far back as the rear seats (note all the OG underseal the blaster couldn't get off), left the trans tunnel in case it needs some clearancing for the trans I want to run (Mercedes 722.6) I need to drop the rear diff to do the underside of the boot, but before doing that I thought I should really install the bags and some wheels and put it on the ground to see how it looks, so I did. Managed to unlock the next level of sketch city in the process with mystery blocks of wood used in precarious manners to get it down off the axles stands. That's as low as you'll get one of these without taking an angle grinder to the body which I am unkeen to do, I also don't think the rear diff would enjoy any more articulation. sills are about 100mm, front cross member about 70mm and rear diff about 50mm from the ground respectfully. Now have the classic problem of the jack not fitting under it.
    1 point
  41. Have now seam sealed the front right inner wheel arch. Also got the car up on axle stands and off the trolley thing it's been on for the last 18 months and seam sealed the under side, no pics of that. Masked up the front left inner wheel arch and top coated it with Wurth 'Gravel throw and underbody protection'. I don't want to use the full fat bitumen based underseal as it's a prick to get off in the future if you ever need to - a lot of the underside of this car is still coated in it as the blaster couldn't remove it and I don't have the patience to lie on my back with a heat gun and scraper to get it off, so it can stay. This stuff seams to be favoured by those in the Porsche circles online so we will see how it goes (means I have Porsche parts on my car now right?) has the added benefit of coming in a rattle can, not sure if that means it won't last but it takes a bit of effort to scratch it once its dry.
    1 point
  42. Have been plugging away at the car. Latest job is spraying fish oil into all the seams and cavities. I am not popular with the rest of the family, the smell has wafted through the whole house. 2 coats done, one more tomorrow.
    1 point
  43. I chatted to an engine reconditioner in Hasting this morning. A line bore (to straighten up the crankshaft tunnel) is about $1.5k plus shipping (so > $2k) so I'm now looking for another block. The re-builder may have a contact for one in Hastings (which would be easy). He'll let me know soon. There's also a short-block rusting away in a paddock here, with the pistons completely corroded to the bores. I better go have a look at it. There's a slight chance the bottom end could be OK. Who knows.... but it's off to a grubby, windy paddock for me. Again! LOL
    1 point
  44. I wouldn't recommend waterblasting a block with the cam and lifters still in, but I didn't have any other way to get it cleaned so I spent 45 minutes pumping bore water onto a ute, then borrowed a petrol blaster and a hose. Gravity feed to the blaster wasn't the best, but at least the block is clean enough to see a bit better, but probably still oily enough not to rust much overnight. The blackened main caps tell a story of no bottom end oil flow and spun bearings. I am not sure which happened first. I reckon I'm going to order a set of gaskets, bottom end bearings, a timing chain and just slap it all back together.
    1 point
  45. Those window lines make it look like a Lada Niva's slick city cousin
    1 point
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