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Witchcraft! I just replaced the original fusebox with a new magical one from the future which isn't all hot and melty and gives me more than 9 volts at the headlights! Amaze. Represent. Another year of legality. And since all my thread images are poked, here's one so you and I don't forget what she looks like. <3

Off for the final blast, then refit the bonnet, doors and boot lid and then off to paint woohoo

Rust repairs and painting gives me the shits, would much rather be doing exciting things... like smokey 11's Anywho, some more progress, back bumper was hiding some gems which needed dealing to.

Donkey deep in the swap now. Finished up wiring on weekend, have put a vaporworx pwm set up on the fuel system. It gets fed fuel pressure, MAP, and ecu on off signal and makes the magic happen from there. I reran the fuel line in a 1/2" line, dead headed set up. Trans and engine are in, changed rear stoppers to disc, also changed pinion yoke to 1350 size, it was 1310. Remade all the front brake lines, replaced all ball joints, tie rod ends, basically all the steering/front end stuff is new. Changed the Instrument stuff to a Dakota digital set up that plugs into the Ecu for all the info. Cert check soon !!

Got it going with new gear ratio. It sheds the wheels spinning them with ease! Definitely worth the extra work to gear it at 6:100 in T8f. I need to raise it with thicker sleeves as I've bottomed out the chain a couple times on my driveway. Another 10mm ground clearance will make a world of difference. But hey, for 39cc it shreads!!!! Pretty happy with this one.

The best thing to use is a head temperature sensor. @peteretep has one on his street magic that works quite well. The thermocouple usually has a little terminal that goes under one of your head bolts and gives you an idea that your motor is running hot. Also taking the time to get a safe tune beforehand makes all the difference. You want it a step or too below the point where it's just too rich.

How long had you been running that filter for? The cold air mixed with not running a factory air box would result in a very very lean mixture. By the way, I reckon you should keep this bike ~100cc.

This evening I removed all the brackets from the TS frame to turn it into a TM frame, I also welded up the pillion footrest mount holes in the swing arm and shortened and bent the rear frame loop up more, frame is ready for blasting and painting. I am going to be lazy and the swing arm and shocks can stay on, I will take it apart after blasting and painting and clean the shit out as I will be replacing the bearings anyway, shocks will go to the scrap.

I think your luggage setup would have contributed to the motors early death. I know my yb100 motor struggled with the extra drag out the side so just out it all into a big tramping pack and it was sweet

Yea so there was a wee saga with the engine parts, Trundles rang and said the only crank they had was damaged, so they had only sent the seals, gaskets and bearings. I spent a bit of time trying to find another crank but nothing was available. Plenty of complete engines for too much money, but then what fucking use were all the other parts. So I suggested I send it all back and he got all pissy and said he would find another crank, which he actually did. So we will wait and see what turns up. I have been selling off shit like a demon, I've got 2/3rds of the money to pay for the coating, but I have to wait for some latches I ordered off Ali Express to sort the drawers so I can get it done. In the meantime I have been tidying up the last few things I have to do. I have needed to get some sort of tiedown detail into the deck, but preferably without going any wider, or having them down low and preventing the drawers from opening. I decided to do it this way, which was laborious but reasonably tidy. I can also use the detail as a mount for sides if I need to; I also made something proper for the low range boot to mount too; Might have to start the many jobs I have been neglecting around the house now..

This year has been a real rollercoaster. I've had far too many projects on my plate (and a lack of motivation to finish them), not much expendable income and a huge life change with my 5+ year relationship ending... So I've been planning on thinning the hoard, moving somewhere else and starting a new life. So when an old, rare 2 stroke bike showed up, the logical thing to do would be to pass on it. Right? WRONG. Enter the Wolf. This piece of Suzuki engineering is 1969-1971 Suzuki T90 Wolf. It's very closely related to a T125 stinger. My dad and I missed out on a T125 last year and we were gutted. It was a green one in "barn find" condition- but appeared to be missing the carbs: Then a wee while ago, @SOHC happened upon this old T90 Wolf that he and his friend used to ride around 15+ years ago. He said it would be available, so a deal was struck and I went to collect it over the weekend. It's a quirky wee beast and has some cool features like a seat that hinges backwards - I've never seen this style before. The seat has seen better days and needs a trip to midnight upholstery so @64valiant can work his magic on it. The frame, forks and motor are all bit dirty and there's some corrosion, but it's surprisingly good for a bike that's been sitting for this long. It needs a headlight, indicators, speedo cable (the thread is broken on the underside of the speedo unit) and the forks will need a bit of love to deal with the peeling chrome. I think a strip and re-paint will be good enough for starters. Eventually I'll strip this bike down and give everything a proper clean up. The frame could do with a blast and re-paint, the tank needs a small amount of rust cleaned up and a re-spray. Overall it's a very solid bike though! And runs amazingly well for something that's been sitting in a barn. All it took was a bit of fuel and it fired into life. Jeah! Rare, old, small capacity, 2 stroke, twin cylinder radness. This should be fun.

Thanks all. Will get into it soon, picked up motor. Same length, larger gearbox but smaller cylinder head. approx 20mm wider in gearbox. Roughly 10mm a side isn't as bad as expected. Plz keep eye open for any wr200s being wrecked as need quite a few parts

Yeah get a trailtech vapor, reliable speed, rpm and cylinder temp. I have a stage6 version too on another bike which is a good alternative. Over 200 degrees is into trouble territory, above 215 is super danger zone, hard riding on long straights should put you around 180-190 in the middle of summer https://www.amazon.com/TRAILTECH-Vapor-Computer-Kit-Motorcycle/dp/B07BYLJ927/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=trailtech+vapor+752-116&qid=1568694811&sr=8-1 https://www.pedparts.co.uk/product/702/stage6-digital-speedo-clocks-rev-counter https://www.pedparts.co.uk/product/1349/koso-temperature-sensor-adaptor-14mm-spark-plugs

For me it's 'less bad' if people have a bike license and ride a big cc swapped Moped. Then you're only risking riding a bike with the 'wrong engine' as opposed to riding on the wrong license class (even though the bike is cheap moped reg). Keen to see how this goes though! Will be pretty interesting to see it finished for sure. WR200's are fun even in stock form. Forgive my uber safety old man speeches btw. We lose a customer or two each year to bike accidents and having a solid crash a few east capes back + doing a ride forever course made me realise I knew way less than I had thought. Bigger cc and stock brakes make for some butt puckering moments. Nang hard. Do a skid etc.

Im guilty of cooking 2ts 5 big block kits here before realising I should of spent that all at once on a rm85 swap and be done with it

You may have trouble at WOF time, if that's something you do. And yeah most people kill 2 strokes, a couple times at least, then either get smart and go to 4t, or get smarter and don't kill them (quite as much)

We buy 4 strokes, Most cops wont know if you have a 200cc engine, most cops dont even know the law,

Looks like the engine is already bought and said for, but I agree with the others. Well at least around here it wouldn’t take long to get picked on by the thin blue line.

I agree. Otherwise it’s really pushing its legality, physical engine size and performance wise. Hate to be the one to ruin 01 class rules. However wr200 powered would be great for off-road!

Also could store some stuff short-term if needed in Auckland until you get round to figuring shit out.

Hello again from the nonexistent-Burgerfuel-meet thread. Here's your monthly pic for September, brought to you by the third Wednesday of the month: This month I've booked a dentist appointment for earlier in the evening, so if I'm not at Burgerfuel, know that I'm suffering.

We’d decided we were going to tackle 42 traverse. Which was a great choice for a shakedown ride imo. Adventure50 handled it quite well, 4t motor is just lazy and loves being held wide open to bounce up obstacles. Did a few jumps, bashed through a bunch of puddles, and succeeded at most hill climbs (let down by lack of rider skill mostly) apart from the really wet slippery clay ones (like picture) due to lack of tyre grip, as the SR241 trail tyres just clogged up. Cleared instantly though once back onto the more solid bits of the trail. relocating the airfilter into the frame was good, as it increased the wading depth. However we still had to carry/float the bikes across as a section of this was mid thigh deep. Even made it up to see some snow only issue on the day was I lost the exhaust nuts -my fault for not double nutting/using lock nuts. And could go for some firmer front springs as it bottoms out fairly easily. / less bent fork tubes might help too. however we only did 42 one way as on the way back Andrews bike broke and we had to walk it out. So I need to go back to ride it both ways again. #cape

So I had a short list of things to sort after the last test. First was to make a more permanent restrictor, before the tape went through the carbs. I did lots of math to work out the area, and made a stainless restrictor, but just fitted it temporarily in case it was wrong. Turns out it doesn't work as good as the tape, so will try again. I also redid the top of the brake pedal, to try get more swing/feel. Seems to be a bit better/good enough. Did a bit more of the wiring/cleaned a bit of it up, and mounted the magic boxes. I'm waiting on some components to arrive from China so I can finish this and the dash. Speaking of dash, I started making a new one, with new switches and shit. Waiting on new warning lights to show up. This is the same shape as the hood. I also made a new front panel. It's made of thicker steel than before, with more bars and more mounts, so should be nice and strong. I also fixed a few other bits and bobs, and adjust a few other items. In testing today I discovered the sprocket is still coming loose, I think it's because the axle was welded together under the sprocket (it broke years ago because there was no center bearing) and is slightly undersized, and the key ways are a bit flogged out. I was going to re-key the axle and sprocket a size bigger to see if it would stop it coming loose, but while doing beach donuts, it snapped the axle. So I'll just make a new axle from scratch out of 4140 center-less ground. Luckily I purchased a 4wd last week, and I sighted this very occurrence as my reason for needing one. We managed to drag the offroader back to the trailer with a jammed rear wheel. My fucking sweet rig, Broken, Aftermath, Shitty vid of today's efforts: Regards, VG.

And nearly a year later...... Oil leak finally got to the point of Greenpeace protestors chaining themselves around the car..... Finally got around to setting up the electric winch I brought off @HKM400 ages ago, wish I had one of these since day one, engine removal was a breeze! Turned out the diff mount had been rubbing on the sump leaving quite a hole, once again the lada gods smiled as it also made a reasonable job of blocking the hole. With the engine out I modified the sump to have more clearance and TIGed up the hole in time for a trip to the hills. Always fun taking the Niva up into the snow Also surprising that i've put chains on it twice this year, that doubles the number of times its had chains in my ownership!

I made this tapping wrench on the BarryLathe this weekend. I need to practice my sewing /subscribe to DirtyBarry

I actually like the rude rude as white bonnet look haha. 2pac likes it and that’s all that counts.

Bit of the old grease on the top of the IDA filter then lower the bonnet gently down, capturing the initial lower outline of where the cut needs to be. I need to get a couple extra bits to complete this like the thin black trim for the hole edge. My original red bonnet will remain mint so that I can chop and change the look at will. I noticed it was vibrating towards the front at 100km therefore I had a good look at it when I got home. The factors glue holding the frame to the skin was separating. Now we pumped a load of Wurth glue in the areas of concern and it all should be sweet after the glue tacks off.

So this happened today - purists please look away. I have a spare RX2 s2-3 bonnet that has just been gagging to have an IDA hole cut into it.... this was the result

Just a waiting game while the painting guy does stuff. I decided to take the side trim off so the guards needed a bit more work but are all in primer again now. Body is coming along very slowly. Front bumper is off to get fixed as theres a few cracks in it. Painting is boring so just one photo for now. In other news these arrived... finally. I run FA stuff in the EP and its pretty good, so thought Id have a stab at it for the AE too. Spenny, but hopefully worth it. Went with 8kg and 6kg and the shortest possible rear shocks. Will order some new bearings and maybe rotors sometime soon. No rush without the car here.

As title says. Know numbers are dwindling, need to get things going again. If keen reply on here or pm me. Date and venue to be comfirmed depending on numbers.

Way back in this thread: There was mention of a Mitsi Lancer electronic distributor fitting a Billy Bunter/Minx engine, the words suggesting later Hunters had them from new, but no detail was forthcoming. A Nissan Bluebird CA20 dizzy was also mentioned but that sounded less bolt on-ish. After extensive factfinding on wikipedia (yep that may be a contradiction) it would appear Lancers in NZ in the early 80s had a 4g32 up front. Is anybody out there able to fill in the gaps and confirm or deny if the 4g32 dizzy is Hunter compatible? I've got a 72 Hunter and it's about time I got it roadworthy again, if there's an easy cheap bolt on alternative out there for the Lucas distributor I'm keen to find out about it. Japanese ignition from the 80s was clearly worlds apart from British 60s/70s. And assuming it's a goer, has anybody got a dead 4g32 they are parting out? Cheers.

Hi all. been wanting to share this for a while here. I'm totally in love with this thing. I got tired of missing out on all the rides and when I did manage to attend it was on @64valiants bikes. I also needed to find a way to stop being such a hermit and to kinda get interested in life again. I missed out on a few good deals and vowed to act quickly should anything good pop up. Ideally it'd be a larger scoot with enough power to keep up with the cool kids and go places without frustrating the public. This MB came up on TM for $600.Its pretty much famous as the old ownership papers show it was first owned by Patricia Hekia Parata (lol) I rode it for a while on the 30 year old tires, then installed my carbon fiber bars (its just straight CF tube from the NF75), re-wired the whole thing with full wave rectifier and 12v, made a smoothing battery type thing out of a stack of capacitors (this works REALLY well!), installed new tires, had Midnight Upholstery re-cover my seat in crocodile vinyl, designed a new gauge cluster in F360 and had @Roman 3d print it for me (damn its nice), etc etc etc. There's more to the story but nobody is probably even reading this far though :-D. one of the best parts is some blokes that used to bucket race these things so theres tons of info on how to make them go fast i haven't done any of that yet but theres still time :-D. During pickup First nightmare kawhia trip- this one made me want working lights At @Beavers new pad. Greg did seat stuff He fitted new foam to the factory seat base. I considered using ply (see background sitting on heater) but the steel just fits so perfect its silly to not use it. This was done right before our second (first successful) trip to kawhia. No time to cover it so it was installed and used as-is. The lower curved edge of seat base was trimmed straight before covering. on the way to kawhia with greg and 10/5 Did this design and render in F360. Really wanted the new component to fit straight into the existing light housing and be as close to factory fitment as possible. the gauges are all off Ali Express- I did the render while waiting for them to arrive. The sales blurbs had enough measurements and images for me to relatively accurately do this. Roman printed me one in black and then one in orange. The orange was too choice to not use. During the big re-wire. the bike only had working indicators when collected. I was able to get one filiment of the headlight working (hard wired) but there were some serious wiring faults that prevented the tail lights from working. The headlight was dim at idle and the indicators wouldn't even flash unless revs got up. I either replaced or tested all individual wires and switches on the bike. Many of those shit bullet connectors were replaced with proper plugs. I then wrapped the whole loom in tesa tape. I got lucky on this LED lamp. This was purchased off AE and the style was a total guess. Nothing is available off the shelf to fit the factory lamp holder. This one had one tab that lined up and by bending the steel bodies fingers inward It was able to not fall out. Very happy with how this worked out and its updated the factory headlight extremely well. The head studs were all barely tight and greg noticed shit hissing out when i rocked up to his place one day. Probably gained 2hp by tightening these. Finished seat! I love this thing. Considered buying off AE but decided to get something done right for once- and super happy i did. It fits and feels so damn good. Commissioning the bikes new wiring was a total mind-fuck. Part of converting the bike to full-wave 12v is doing whats called "floating" the stators coil. To float the coil you remove the coils center output and the coils earth... then you attach the wire that you cut off the center of the coil onto the end of the coil that was once earthed. EG, the coil no longer has an earth of its own. I purchased a chinese regulator/rectifier off trademe because I didn't want to wait for ali express shipping. This was the only part that gave me a serious ballache. I first started the bike and had between 6v and 19v depending on revs. This destroyed my brand new battery (which id had an ace bracket laser cut for). I did a HUGE amount of testing to figure out what was wrong. Was it my wiring? was it my coil modification? my AE Kitset scope helped here as it allowed me to check the waveform coming from the stator. I also tried this rectifier from a chinese scoot i have here.. that one is also SHIT so was starting to doubt myself. Ended up buying a good trailtech full-wave rectifier/regulator from Amazon and paying for express shipping. This unit is a BEAST, has adjustable voltage output and a few other cool features- plus it actually works. this was installed and tested(easily thanks to me installing plugs throughout the loom) and during a quiet tantrum about my broken battery realized it wasn't necessary after-all. Capacitors from Jaycar wired into a tidy battery pack was easy and the result is extremely impressive. The capacitors smooth out the rectified AC into a really beautifully smooth DC.. The scope shows its not perfect but its good enough that nothing is visible though the LED's and brightness is double what they are without the capacitors in place. And this is it now.. There't also been new carbs and intake reed assembly acquired plus new Ali Express rear shocks (factory ones would start bouncing and feel floaty).

I can hear the oldschool drag day calling for your AE already............

you will find weather and altitude will mean life and death, my KX would ping like hell some days and I would have to change the jets. Wr200 should be fun

So @GuyWithAviators and I impulse decided we needed to go on an adventure, Id wrangled a Friday off work so the date was set. I made a seat just to get by. -hand beaten pan and custom duel density foam, and glued that on. Loaded the bike onto the trailer and shot down to meet Andrew.

Decided to get off my arse and install the efi, after the last run to hanmer I got sick of the flat spots and rough running.. Got all the gear out to hook it up. Got this far.. Then realised the injector plugs I grabbed from pickapart 5 years ago were wrong and they're for high impendence injectors, so I need to back out and get some others. Also while I'm out there I need a Nissan vg30 tps for the vg30 tb. I also need to buy an Oxy sensor, an ignitor and ballast resistor for the injectors. Speaking of injectors, still haven't been able to find any info on the denso's I have. 195500-0285 is the code if anyone knows.. Bought a new battery today as mine is about 2007 and doing random slow starts..

This photo uploading gig is really trying my patience...

Front brakes ready to bolt on VJ spindles, new discs with 3mm off the od thanks to @RXFORD, then @RUNAMUCK kindly supplied some wheel studs to replace a couple that got mangled on the way out, reco surf calipers, new wheel bearings, aussie valiant lower ball joints which have a shorter steering arm for more hektik drifts, and repco had some new dust caps

kinda boring update. hadn't changed the thermostat forever, so thought would try a lower temp one. seen on engine masters they made some more power running cooler water temps, so cant hurt to try.. new one is meant to be 68 degrees. but seems like more like 76 degrees. the stock Toyota one is 82deg and sits bang on that under normal conditions So yep, robbed. as you would expect no change in power, with only a 6 degree difference in water temp. but did confirm what have been seeing with oil temps; 20deg more oil temp is consistently another 3-4kw. that's going from 80deg to 100deg. faster engine is spinning more gains. in other news, some time ago i put a china alternator on it, because cheap. have been fighting broken bolts and alternator brackets for awhile. which i assumed was my crappy bracket that i made too lightweight. turns out old mate was on his 2min lunch break and this alternator skipped the balancing stop on the production line. spinning it up with my impact driver which maybe spins at 2000rpm it wanted to jump out of your hand. so yeh at 20k rpm... note windings held together with string

Righto, so ive been driving this to work every day for the last month ir whatever. Hasn't missed a beat. Its fucking slow. Fuck me is it slow but that's not such an issue, it's fucking cool and I like driving it. The front end is a bit all over the show If you have to hit the brakes on the motorway so ive replaced all the bushes. Castor arm bushes and upper inner bushes were completely fucked. Im fairly certain they were original ones. I'll do the back next weekend and put thre disk brake diff in at the same time.

This is great, I love the low tech implementation of high tech ideas.

Video of it almost running. Cannot seem to get the mixture quite right.

Also, it tops out at 120kmh, but that feels plenty fast enough at the moment.

Got a little bit more done. Got an out of date unused 6 point harness, modified it to be 5 point, and fitted that. Just had to make a mounting bar for behind the seat. Then I got a small car battery (will have electric reverse + winch + lights in the future, so didn't use motorbike spec battery) and set about making a shitty mount for it. It used to be in the nose, but got the bash, so I've mounted it on the side. I might have to make a cover to stop it getting owned by debris in the future. I recycled a bit of seat belt and buckles, but couldn't get it tight, so changed it to good old fashioned rods N nuts. I also put a speed sensor on the front wheel for the trailtech dash. I just have to reroute some wiring and mount the magic electrical boxes, and it's ready for a gentle shake down run, hopefully this weekend weather permitting. If all goes well, I'll make a new front bash plate thing, as the old ones a bit rooted, Then paint all the bits that need painting (probably just rattle can it, as shit will keep getting modified) then start fitting all the alloy panels. I also have to make a dash that the bonnet will join up to. Hopefully the next post will have evidence of a successful test run. Regards, VG. XOXOX

Slowly but surely

Boot lid finished which pretty well completes the panel. It’s going to be a shame to paint it! Stainless trim already to go to the polishers.

More progress with gapping the doors bonnet and boot. All welded back together again. Trial fitting allthe exterior body parts to check all good and also fitting the front and rear screens and rear quarter windows to check new rubbers all work.

So some of you are really into programmable ignition and electronic sensors. I tried to make my own electronic ignition. After 3 seconds one of the MOSFETS running a coil shorted out. After 7 seconds all of them had. Each mosfet was rated at 20 amps. But considering they were dealing with the primary and ... lets face it. some of the secondary output (These old timers are like that) i don't think they were up to the million volt task. At least 2 hall effect sensors survived. Barely.

HUZZAH! I've gotten my speedo working. Basically I stripped the guts out of the stock speedo and put two stepper motors inside, put a hall sensor next to a diff flange, then I made some electronic thingys to measure the speed picked up by the sensor and move the motors in the speedo. Like so... This is the motor I used for the odometer This is the type of motor I used for the needle This is not my car but I basically did the same thing as this, sensor picks up the capscrews as they fly past the sensor: My hack circuit board: The processor is a PIC16F628A and it has two ld239 motor divers (one for each of the motors). The sensor is a Honeywell 1GT101DC. It all works pretty well. I was a shocked as you! Today I also bought some smaller tires, R888 245/45/16, clearance is touch and go with the flares, fingers crossed.

I've been working away but it's not very interesting stuff. I've cleaned up all my wiring and mounted the fuse box and rebuilt all the heater stuffs. Dash is back in. The tacho is being a total vag so I'm ditching that stupid circuit and replacing it with a stepper motor at some point when I care enough. Replaced the rubber bits on the quarter windows. If things go really well I might be driving this on the weekend. There's still lots of things to do; some upholstery, put all the windows back in, door lock actuators, all the interior panels, indicators, seats & belts. Mostly a million little thingys.