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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/07/19 in all areas

  1. Also today the horn jammed on, it has never worked, the button dosnt even move but I had to drive past people with it blasting away like some arsehole.
    5 points
  2. Long time between posts as usual, made another mission back to the Marshland yard before it's all gone. Managed to get four decent 14 inch rims to put the Sabre back to original and so I can fit the NOS hubcaps - will look the part once blasted and painted. Also found a floormat for it amongst the grass, I have the passenger side but had been missing the driver's so I'm a happy lad! Also dragged this monstrosity home because I couldn't bear the thought of it being crushed. I'll clean it up and then decide what to do with it.
    4 points
  3. How it should have always been. The pedal set fits great. I'll need to cut the hole in the firewall for the master cylinder but that's the extent of it it. Seeing three pedals makes me very excited for the future of this car.
    4 points
  4. Dragged some pine logs from a tree that fell down, if you get stuck this thing digs holes till it’s down to the diff in the ground.
    4 points
  5. Bonus images. Big thanks to these guys Kieran, stan and the other boys for the endless pumping of the brake pedal.
    4 points
  6. Door is being a pain in the ass to hang. The problem being that every point of reference has been dicked. Got the lines pretty good, but the bottom of the door over hangs the sill by a good 1cm in places How, I measured and checked everything and used the other door frame for reference. The sill is dead straight. Oh the door is bent Some hammer and dolly work and it's coming into shape. Looking at unmolested utes, there is a prominent angle here. Mine is smooth and bulbus . I assume it was either bent out to match the previous sill, or was bent already and the bogged the sill to match. (Same issue with the roof lines, bogged over and rounded off)
    3 points
  7. @EpochNZ I'm afraid so, there are still other 110s there but nothing to think of saving. They are still out there though if you know where to look!
    2 points
  8. So the orange skoda will only live on in my dreams amidst regrets of the one that got away...
    2 points
  9. Fuck that thing has more mongrel than Garry Glitter in a Minor
    2 points
  10. Fine tunned everything pretty happy dont work on mondays so hopfully take for a real good ride but happy thats its all worming agian
    2 points
  11. Yup stones. My bike didnt make it there either but still a great weekend
    2 points
  12. Stones? Man that's great around the fire drum while listening to a triumph herald based trike skid into the crowd
    2 points
  13. The "adaptor' is called a tophat, as a rule of thumb they are usually fitted with 6,8 or 10 bolts. As long as it's not a floating setup 6x 6mm is fine, the torque is not transmitted through the shear of the bolts it's transmitted through the friction from the two surfaces being clamped together. Nothing wrong with the tie wire's at all (everything on a race car tries to undo itself!). By the look of the radial surface cracks they've done some work and had some heat in them.
    2 points
  14. Put this shit in a storage shed two years ago. Dragged it into 'current projects' shed last night. #barnfind
    2 points
  15. I’d been keeping any eye on a bloke in Whangerai who had been trying to sell a 186 on TM while doing his damndest to scare off any potential buyer by abusing anyone who had the audacity to ask a question on his auction. God I love those grumpy old traders! He was insisting that someone had painted the standard head yellow and refused to post any pictures of the inlet ports. After some months of his relisting I finally put the poor deluded old sod out of his misery by buying it for $300. An early 2-hour drive had me rolling down his driveway at 8 am in the morning, one look at the inlet ports confirmed it had at least a stage 2 Yellow Terra head. When I suggested that as an honest principled rogue, I felt a moral obligation to throw a little more coin in the pot he started accusing me of being a ‘lying young upstart that was talking through a hole in his f***ing head’. As I beat a hasty retreat up the driveway waiting for him to set the dogs on me (with the booty in the back of the van) I had to admit that at 63 years of age, despite the verbal tirade it was great to be called ‘young’ – ya gotta love those grumpy old guys! Couldn’t wait for to to get the head off but work pressure had me waiting for the weekend. As I said in the 1st post of this thread ‘sometimes you just get lucky’ - I stuck it in the engine stand, flipped its lid off and discovered a rather virgin stage 3 Yella Terra covered with the type of carbon that only prolonged over rich running can ever produce. Double valve springs and classic 70’s inlet porting. And just relish in the vintage YT valves! Once cleaned up the flat top 30 thou over pistons felt firm in the bore so Rigamortice and I made the call that we’ll clean up the head, sort out the appropriate sump/pickup combo and see how it runs.
    2 points
  16. LINK TO DISCUSSION: Okay so I've been on the site for a while but contributed very little to date so here it is. This is my 1969 Skoda Sabre (1000MB outside of NZ), was my Grandfathers and comes with lots of parts. Rego is currently on hold, failed its wof a few weeks ago on tyres and a leaking brake cylinder and it should be back on the road in a few months. Plans are to convert to 5-speed (have a gearbox waiting) and potentially get a 1300cc motor from a Favorit too. All long-ish term plans subject to time, space, money etc so they might change. First though will be to swap out the existing front axle for a later 110L model to get front disc brakes and to do some interior work like headlining, carpets etc. Anyway here are some recent photos.
    1 point
  17. Hey guys new to this page. Heres my bike a yamaha xv1000 ive had for a yeat and ridin it eveywere located in palmerston north. Cheers
    1 point
  18. Hi folks, just realised I hadn’t posted this up yet. I think this car made a brief appearance on the British cars thread. It’s now mine and currently in my driveway awaiting fixing. Main work is going to be engine as it needs a rebuild or an alternative sourced, very Smokey!
    1 point
  19. I got soooo drunk there on Fri. Holy fuck, that ginger wine stuff.. Jesus
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. Yuuuuus vicccccctory....... Actually got too ride my bike yus went like a charm too. Only issue was break leaver keeps hitting my throttle cable adjuster. But thats a easy fix and. Wasnt even too bad to start had to do the ol ride down the street backfireing until came right haha but thats a givin when it sits
    1 point
  22. This is a test photo to see the quality of pictures. Have been through 3 phones since last time posting and I'm sending them through fb messenger.
    1 point
  23. So weekend went a bit odd... Sorced a cable wich i was told would work.. put on keept jamming on haha. So my mate gave me his spear bike for weekend and then that breaks down leaves me stranded for awhile still was cool weekend. Had manawatu motorcycles make me a new cable all is right in thr world again bikes back togever probly will be a egg to start lol. Ride on weekend hopfully
    1 point
  24. I can't get no satisfaction Except some times I do Was at a bit of a loss as to how to line the new sill up. Luckily A series engine components came to save the day. Looking at the step/scuff panel part of the door frame, it looked pretty squashed. Must have been stood in a few times. The section right in the middle where the seat frame mount is attached was unbent. So I used a rocker shaft from a 1098 Morris minor to reshape it. This must have worked because when I then set the top lip of the new sill where the old one was, the bottom of the inner sill also lined up (it was well out before) Needs another day to make a rear cab corner and join in the front of sill to the bit behind the guard
    1 point
  25. Now its done Featuring a new tall pipe from Rumbler Jesse and a suicide shifter I whipped up out of parts. Stoked as fuck with how it looks now too
    1 point
  26. Time for final assembly. I bought a new set of cam followers as the old ones look a bit thin in the head. And I have had one break in another engine. Put the crank in. Short blocked. Checked the front pulley for tdc. It's the best time to check it. Not a common problem with solid front pulleys. But definitely common for old harmonic balancers to move and cause a headache when timing your engine. Assembled the head.
    1 point
  27. Here is my cheap version of header cut offs. old school idea..weld the bolt to the rod and weld the end of the rods..cut off excess. make up 5 mill thick circle blank off with bolt hole. undo one nut and it’s full noise.
    1 point
  28. So I found a local place that could anneal my sump which would allow me to pull it flat. Dymo Manufacturing in Wingate. They put it in their kiln with it bolted to the jig. It was heated up to.... hot, then allowed to cool down slowly over many hours. ~10 I think. $70. The heat seems to have baked out any oils and cooked the sealer that was still in the grooves on the mounting face. The sealer just crumbles and turns to powder when I scrape at it. Only down side was it caused some of the small M6 bolts to seize in the jig which I wasn't expecting, so I broke one and stripped at least two more. So I'll have to find some suitable bolts to bolt it back to the engine. Oops. But it's more or less flat already. So I am happy to bolt it back to the engine, the sealer will sort out any tiny gaps. Cast iron table saw top is the flattest thing I have. I did try move it around a bit, just in case the table saw top was bent. It's the same which ever way I put it. There is still a tiny gap at the front of the sump, but it's no bigger than 0.5mm and if I put some weight on it, it closes up. Yay.
    1 point
  29. Thought it was time to clean up Rigamortice’s vintage Kel-Co manifold to get the DCD Weber back where it belongs. Couldn’t resist the temptation to cut off unwanted bits, file off casting marks and give it a blast in the new blasting cabinet (only a baby one but all I have is 12 cfm). Have to say I was pleased with the results. I’d been thinking about building an engine start-up cradle for a while, found some old castors, raided the obligatory under bench scrap steel pile and started cutting and welding,……… and cutting and welding,……. Once again happy with the end result, particularly the “Hillbilly headers” fabricated from parts saved from the rubbish bin. I just had to incorporate the “inglorious welding” I found on an old muffler! And how could you not love the 1950’s JAP fuel tank. As an added bonus you can even run motors up on it! (My favourite Torana 2850cc 9 port, stock standard but what little rever – Brock discovered them before anyone else). First 2850 start-up on the new cradle
    1 point
  30. Been dailying it for nearly 4 months now! Awhile ago I took it to Napier and got Simon from Airride NZ to paint on some whitewalls. Looks so much better! A couple weeks a go I drove it up to Auckland. No issues, other than the speedo dying on the way up in Thames. Have been emailing Classic Instruments about the gauge, to see if they can find whats wrong. They have since stopped replying after I did some tests and they figured out it's completely dead. Not the first issue with it either. Have already sent it away to get fixed once, as the odometer wasn't working when I first got it. Not impressed, since they aren't exactly cheap! Brought back an engine and gearbox, a couple storage boxes and a set of wheels from Auckland. The Hoonigans also shared it on their Instagram. Some comments are pretty entertaining haha. Have some bear-claw latches to install one day, as the doors are a pain to get closing properly, keep popping open and rattling. Need to sort some electric solenoids to lock the doors first though.
    1 point
  31. So all the parts are on new grips wich are metal with rubber grips. New seitch gear new bars on looks good just need to ride to dile in where i want bars
    1 point
  32. As those who are more familiar with us will know both Rigamortice and myself have a great affinity for the environment and take climate change (i.e. the thing we used to “call global warming” before it got cold again!) very seriously. Stricken by remorse and overwhelmed by guilt over the tons of negative carbon credits I’ve released on the global economy through years of motor racing, driving cars for the love of it, and behaving like a typically irresponsible older ‘Oldschool’ member I have acquired an EV! You may scoff at the fact that it’s a clapped out old warehouse sweeper with buggered batteries saved from the scrap heap but to Rigamortice and myself it is a powerful symbol of our indefatigable commitment to a green and politically correct future. With help from my brother providing advice, encouragement and the Wild Turkey may I present the definitive green, negative carbon credit, EV solution to taking the wheelie bins out when you live down a long driveway, (what could possibly go wrong!). Commentary and camera work courtesy of the ever lovely Mrs sr2.
    1 point
  33. Thought it was about time to have a look at my favorite DCD Weber; we go back a long way, purchased new in 1974 it was looking a little 2nd hand. Stripped it down and on closer inspection the throttle spindles showed little almost no wear and the call was made to give it a good clean and assemble with a new float valve and gaskets. Finally located a rebuild kit from MLP Carbs in Victoria, (don’t you hate it when bloody Aussies turn out to be the good guys……!). After an enjoyable evening in the world famous sr2 man cave rattling the neighbourhood with Pink Floyd playing loud and ½ a bottle of cheap (ish) pinot noir - one more job’s ticked off the list.
    1 point
  34. With the head sorted i can put the camshaft in and check piston to valve clearance. But first I need to dowel the head to the block. These old beast come from the factory without any location other than the head bolts. So I center off one of the head bolt holes and drilled it to 14mm. Then bolt the head one without moving anything and drill the head bolt hole out to 14mm. Then fit the head on the dowel and drill the other head bolt hole for the second dowl. So dialed the cam in. Then bolted the head on and found my rockers where a little worn so gave them a tidy up. Forgot to take pictures of the head fitted. But basically fitted the head, put two layers of plastersene on top of the piston in the valve cut outs. Then turned the engine over to get the valves to in print into the plaster. Then I cut half the plaster away to see how thick it is. This gives you a good indication of the piston to valve clearance.
    1 point
  35. I'm happy with the valve size. So I cut seats into the new valve inserts. I cut all the seats as close to the same height as possible. Al my work mate had done some research into the best seat angles, and we used a radius throat cutter profile. Once they are all cut to the right depth and right size to get the 45degree seating where we want it on the valve face we are ready to synchro seat the seats with the stone gear. We believe this gives a good sealing finish on the seats. I didn't get any pictures of this, but basically you face the valve seat grinding stone on the valve facer to get the same exact angle. Here's a picture of me stoning the seat. You can see the seats are polished up. I now check to see if they are seating the whole width on the valve face. I didn't get a picture of this. But we use a engineers blue to wipe on the valve the put the valve into the head and push the valve onto the seat and look to see if the engineers blue makes full contact from the valve to the seat. So the valve and seats are done. So I need some valve springs so I went down to Kennelly Cams to see PK and Adam. They have a good selection of springs in stock. This is also where I got my cam reground. So running the FE Mazda valves I need to use a different valve spring retainer to the stock xflow item. I looked at using the FE retainers but unfortunately that was going to make my spring install height to tight. The spring install height is the measurement from the spring seat on the head to the valve spring retainer. Stock xflow is around 33mm. So that's what I'm trying to get close to. So Al grabbed a Toyota 1kz retainer and we took a measurement and they looked like they would do the job with a bit of turning in the lathe. You can see the spring isn't sitting in the right spot. So I made a arbor to spin the retainers in the lathe Finished retainers sitting on the spring.
    1 point
  36. Good ride home feilding thru to woodvile for a pie bak home to palmy. Im gona swap the break booster hopfully get some more break power as the fronts have always been rubish.
    1 point
  37. Heres a couple of photos from when i 1st got her to now replaced every gasket on it. Rebuilt carbs made sisy bar paint changed random stuff ect over the last year
    1 point
  38. All stitched up and plugged together. Finding a few small pinholes, some previously tacked closed, and a few old patches. Explains some of the slight fettling required to get everything to fit flat to each other. But that's ok. Attached some of the wheel well enforcement's. Decided to drill some drain holes in them all. This will let me fill it with paint and chassis wax later. Also some in the smaller sections for the same reason and also to access the inside of the tie down bars. Need to pick up a few meters of 1" tube to replace the two rear ones (rusted out where they meet the wheel well, caused by those supports) have decided to keep them as they won't be in the way of my future plans. So will need to punch a hole in my new rear patch and weld the pipe before the re-enforcement can go back on. Nice and ridged again.
    1 point
  39. Managed to get the full set of seats out and they look like they will all scrub up like the one on the left - I am one happy lad.
    1 point
  40. Made it back to save one of the wrecks, I was there by myself so took the white one because it was easier to access. I wanted to get the red one originally but it had black seats verses the red ones my car had new. Turned out to be quite the mission to get it out, used my XJ Jeep which has never been off the road to drag the various wrecks out of the way so I could get the trailer close enough. Then almost ripped the whole front off the Skoda winching it from the front suspension! Unbelievably rusty piece of a car. Front right wheel was fully locked on so only way I could get it on the trailer was greasing the tyre then pulling it on. Made it home once I'd got it onto the trailer (there goes the neighbourhood), got the bits off it I wanted then took it for scrap. Seats have been really well preserved, the lichen on the windscreens seems to have blacked out the sun (see photo for before/after cleaning). Newspaper found in the car would date it as being sent to it's death in 1988 so 30 years in a paddock! Also found the unrecognisable remains of a 110R coupe - sad sad sight
    1 point
  41. I think I'll go for this reddish one. Still a rusty pile but in slightly better condition.
    1 point
  42. A long time between updates! Mix of work & renovations have meant that there hasn't been much work done lately. Latest news is I finally managed to get to the infamous Marshland Road site to hunt for Skodas. Didn't expect to find so many, it almost seemed like every fifth car was 110 or sections of one! I had watched a video on youtube someone had made of the site ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIzthlI87hc ) and in one shot there was a fairly solid looking Sabre! Sadly though between the video being taken and today someone has beaten me to it! There were three other Sabres on the site but in much worse condition. I will buy one of them just to get the original seats & wheels (my Sabre has 110L seats and 13 inch 120LS wheels) and maybe the windscreens.
    1 point
  43. It runs, only after I discovered I had the adjustable main jet closed, opened that a bit and it fired right up, I was fucking round for ages trying to figure out why it wasn't picking up fuel and ended up taking the carb off ans apart. Also the rev counter and hour meter were not working until I remembered I have the primary belts off and that drives off the gearbox, another Matt Damon moment. Just out of interest I tested the old slieaniam retrofire by connecting the + DC output to a battery and seeing if the diodes still worked witch they didn't at all as there was 12v at the AC input terminals. when the gearbox oil arrives I can go for a drive.
    1 point
  44. $2.95 on Trademe very well spent. Pretty tatty but complete and from the model's launch in 1964.
    1 point
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