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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/15/19 in all areas
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4 points
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So I'm just trying to get the short block completed at this point. There's a fair bit of maching in the cylinder head, fitting valve inserts so I'm just concentrating on the bottom end. So I measured up my crank and found that the mains are worn about 1.5 thou. But the big ends are within book size. So I mount and measured the rods. I found that I had 2.5 thou vertical oil clearance. Which isn't a major issue but I'm building it for myself so I'll resize them to tighten them up. We would offer this to any customer but more often that not the budget comes into play. And budgets generally compromise most engine builds. My budget is definitely compromising this build mainly in the parts department. So I removed the dowels and grind the rod and cap parting faces. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture of the cap dresser. Note the rod thats been ground on the left. Now I reassemble the rods and hone them back to a tighter size than they were. I want them three quarters of a thou tighter. Now that they are all honed to the same size I will mount and measure with the bearings fitted to double check my clearance. This is just a picture of them apart showing them honed and ready for bearings.4 points
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more progress these last couply weeks, ordered a bunch of parts which have arrived but still few more yet to come. todays job was fork seals, everybodys favourite. Yamaha's quality suspension components were on display when removing the old seals... yay for hoarding parts bikes! lots of rust and old fork oil sludge. now forks are back together looking a lot better than when they started. the stanchions came up alright with sandpaper and steel wool, the super rusty shit is gone but there is still a fair bit of pitting in spots, i am skeptical as to what the WOF man will say come re-vin time. i will just whack a pair of gaiters on in a half-assed effort at hiding it. bikes coming together! waiting for headset bearings to arrive this week, then can keep assembling bike. Then fit new tyres, rebuild carb, sort out front brakes, get her running and take it for a skid!3 points
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Been chipping away at this, I gave up on the perennially leaking forks, and took them to a shop on the hutt to sort. Turns out the bushes I was supplied were wrong, so genuine ones from Japan were ordered and installed with new seals. At the same time I picked up some sintered pads, and painted the front disc centres as one was red and one silver. The front wheel was pretty rough, having sat for a couple of years with fork oil slowly eating away at the paint on the lips. So I decided to strip the lips back and polish the alloy. Also polished up the top triple tree and bar risers. Also bought some mirrors for $20 from aliexpress, and have ordered a fairing bolt kit. Mirrors have arrived and bolts are on their way. So left to do is sort the front indicators out, finish polishing the rear wheel, throw on the under bike exhaust hanger and bolt up all the fairing. Then wof Still have to sort out the testarossa style side vents, and all the infill plastics which are in progress, but can also wait for a bit.3 points
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fuck me, so they've done the compliance check all ready. failed on park brake warning light not working ( i stupidly forgot to plug it in) and rear brake imbalance. all the rear brakes are new so i should be able to fuck around with adjusters and sort it out. that's it. i am fucking stoked. i really needed some good news and this will do nicely. the other thing that happened is that Alex who runs Western compliance tried to buy the car off me, which is a complement i suppose. so ill go pick it up Wednesday night and take it from there.3 points
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I'd be talking more to Kelford mate. They absolutely know what they're doing...but no one is infallible. They may have made a small error on an already pushed envelope From the photo (only) I have a theory as to what's happened, but I won't share it here as a single photo isn't anything like as good as actually looking at the valve stem to adjuster contact patch/witness marks. Kelford have a good reputation so I reckon they're your best shot by far.2 points
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Really fun weekend at the Kaspa Transmissions CAR-nival. It's a 3 day track meet with cruising, drags, drift, burnouts and racing. The drag racing was super fun. The car was hooking up perfectly and I managed to win the drag racing tournament in the Naturally Aspirated class!! I was up against some tough competition in the form of a 300KW Holden Commodore, and 396ci big block Holden Premier and another big block HQ Holden. I also went up against a 323, Intgra Type R and an RX7 but that wasn't really a fair fight. I was quite surprised that I managed to beat the big block chevs, I guess it was just down to how light my wagon is and how well it hooks up. Here is a video of all of my runs, I went undefeated 7-0 nd they had a sweet as trophy, I also won best engine bay but they didn't have the trophy there so they will send it out to me. Had a real blast hooning around the track. Went a bit too hard on the first day and wore out my brake pads. It was a total nightmare trying to find some Wilwood race pads at 4:30pm on a Friday in Taupo. None of the brake shops down there had any so I had to call around my friends and found one of them who had a close enough match, so I had to drive out to his place with pretty much no brakes and swap some pads over. In the morning I had to go get the rotors skimmed. The petrol stations loved me down there. The Avenger is pretty good on gas when you are on the road, but it chews through the gas on the track. Discuss2 points
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Don't ride it near @RUNAMUCK they are attracted to him. Atleast of you crash it won't loose any value2 points
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About 10 years ago I swore I would never own another GN250 So in saying that, here's my brand new GN125 Only just noticed there is blue flake through the black. Fancy. Also has a tool box, don't think my 250 had that. Frame welds could have done with some antispatter and some proper cleaning before paint.... Pretty boring Probably the only new vehicle I'll ever have though2 points
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Completed the 57sc Sump Model. Moving onto the pattern making designs now. These should be a lot easier than the crankcase! Casting version with machine allowance and shrinkage compensation First cut of roughly what the sand cores would look like.2 points
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I got this off Zac a few years ago, it's been sitting in storage but I'm getting the bits together so I can assemble it then it'll get sold. I bought some 0.5mm oversize NA (9:1) pistons and bearings from Rockauto. The block was bored by North Canterbury Engine Reconditioners to suit the pistons, he also decked the block and polished the crank for me. I'm converting an Evo 3 head to use the cam and crank trigger setups that some of the other 4G63s ran, I bought new sensors also from Rockauto. I've welded up the injector holes on an Evo 4 inlet manifold so I can use it with the Evo 3 head and have the throttle body facing the correct way. Still need to get lots of other bits, oil pump, sump, turbo and manifold, flywheel and clutch etc etc.1 point
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Hello Sir's This may or may not interest anyone. Last year i spied a boat hull on trademe. I followed it for a while and the price kept dropping. Sold my boat in a hurry and purchased sight unseen. Drove up to Auckland to pick it up only to be met by a small crowd of Nautical Barrys who had built it as a team many years ago and never quite got her going. Many yarns were had over some fine homebrewed beer. Apparently they all wanted to escape their wifes and decided to build a boat so they could take turns escaping their wifes in years to come. Many traditional barry techniques were used in the construction, such as hiring a tail lift truck to turn it over. Specs are 7m Long, 2.4m wide. Constructed from Kauri Frames and Cedar Plank. Weight- 600kg! I tidied her up, put a 65hp outboard on it, a fabric soft top and use it for fishing and drinking beers. Forgive the name, i let my 5yo name it.1 point
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Still cheaper than a petrol equivalent.. $145 To drive to golden bay in a 5vz surf vs $105 in a 1kz.. Including ruc's1 point
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Well going backwards as usual. Wiring is such a mess I am starting again. Too many plugs and crap. Will also shorten the loom instead of running it around through the guard. Also need to fix the radiator mounts, put a fan on the radiator and fit a thermo switch.1 point
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I bought a l28 years ago and this was the problem . after installation of taller valve caps it was all good . The cam had a really aggressive grind and was a lot smaller. my 2c1 point
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I must be missing something here ... why is the head coming off before you have determined where you have a geometry and or bind problem? This sorta shit generally takes two people ... one doing the turning and the other armed with a flashlight and magnifying glass. Are these engines known to be problematic in terms of piston to valve clearance?1 point
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If your cam has had the shit ground out of it, a taller lash cap helps to correct the rocker geometry. IE bring the rocker arm further up, so it's not sweeping past the point of good geometry especially with more lift from a big cam.1 point
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I read this and knew it was from you without even seeing the name.1 point
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Thanks for posting up about the engine building, it's really interesting seeing the work involved!1 point
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Added 4 layers of 1mm thick fibreglass doing two layers per night. Used a roller to push the resin into the matting driving out air bubbles. One it all set we popped the seat off the frame. The carbon fibre looks epic but the white lithium grease added so many ripples in the resin. To fix this we’ll give it a layer of resin let it dry and sand it flat. A quick polish after that should have the carbon popping. Pretty much just cut to shape with an angle grinder, stoked with how well it fits. Just need to find a latch mechanism. Seen one off a Suzuki Bandit that’s perfect. Is Pick a Part for bikes a thing? Mocked up the upholstery too, black faux leather with dark blue stitching.1 point
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Bests engine I ever built was broken in buy doing 6 max speed runs back to back. (Right off the first fire up)1 point
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Wish I'd done tech. Did Japanese instead cos the teacher was spunky and wore white see through blouses. So many horny guys in that class... (Spam sorry)1 point
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Wheelies till the weak link breaks then smooth sailing Handbook recommend procedure is under 5000rpm for first 800km. Under 8000 till 1600, under 10000 for life of engine I don't think that's realistic because 5000 rpm is only 60kph and you are never going to fluctuate revs doing that1 point
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So my engine turned up from Japan last week, assembled it all on Sunday and last night acheived its first start1 point
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It will sort of have the same style tray, but not the roll bars as this will make it way harder to get stuff actually on to the deck. Mostly cos I have a fucking great crane now;1 point
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Konnichiwa. It's been a while. I've been using it quite a bit when the sun shines, but was aware that the worn water pump & tired brakes weren't going to mend themselves anytime soon. Thanks to wise words from @kyteler @sheepers @Spencer I've bought a pile of stuff off that internet... Calipers look close enough though I'll probably need too make up some pipes. I saw on 'Rubbersoul dot pricey' that they were offering Datto 510 wheel cylinders as an option for the hako so I got a pair off rockauto and they seem the same. I got the 510 shoes as well, they look to be the same from what I could gather but we'll see. Bit of a gamble but I can always sell them on. So once the weather chirps up a bit I'll get it on stands and crack on. Need to adjust the valves, it's a little rattly but nothing serious. Gonna do something with the cam cover while I'm in there, either polish it up or black crackle finish. Any thoughts gladly received, except a Japanese rising sun Kyokujitsu-ki thingy, thanks. Other little worry is the diff. Bit loose and clonky. Gonna have a good look at it see what's what. May well investigate the Subaru R180 modification, or see if I can get an LSD for mine. That's it for now, hopefully some progress soon.1 point
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This was on TM a while ago; but i already had drawn some inspiration from the internets;1 point
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New engine is alive Back on the 47mm throttles for run in as had good tune for them. trying some stuff hence wiring abortion. have wiring for multiple setups on same loom, so can swap between easy must of done something right, 150kw at wheels on the small extractors, most its ever made on same setup is 145kw, usually around 143kw. Note to self put mic further away; RIP mic and all speakers.1 point
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Yes the cortina and I won't be parting anytime soon. I've been working on a laurel drag car that I bought as a roller. Thought it was going to be quicker and easier to get it up and running than finish the cortina. Even with mates helping it took 18 months to get it to the track. I see your cortina collection has grown.1 point
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V3.0 Bottom end All the ARP's Threw the bottom end in the car, before attempting to put head on, since don't have an engine stand. One small issue. 16v sumps are a little bigger than the 20v one that was in there. Hits the bash plate/ brace. will probably modify the engine mounts engine to lift the engine 5mm or so. cbf'd taking sump back off.1 point
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Took old motor off, put new motor on. Wired new motor, went to trim it up, solendoids clicking but no movement from pump motor. Bugger Had to remove one side of mounting bracket to get at this bugger. Cracked it open to find that the commutator and bushes were covered in oxide Sanded them back and hit it with a liberal amount of contact cleaner Put back together and is working ok, a little noisy and a little slow, will replace in future. Leaves me with this- Ready to start on a fine day with no kids.1 point
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When i brought the boat, it basically had no outboard well.. The builder didnt think it would plane so sized the transom to take a 15hp motor In order to fit a larger outboard, my and a mate built a alloy pod to hold it. Fitted a Suzuki DT65 that was sold as a write off due to severe corrosion in the bores Put a new headgasket on it and ran it like that for 3 years, until it finally started showing compression issues. Started looking for a new engine, but it had to have a left hand sided control because for some reason my boat is left hook Last week i aquired its new engine.1 point
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This gives you an idea of how the moulds/cores from these patterns will go together.1 point
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ill just leave this here. And she finally made it to a Palmerston North Burger fuel meet!1 point
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