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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/17/19 in all areas

  1. So got a bit distracted with local rotary travel and a rotary storage workshop. First things first, I priced up materials for re-upholstery and bought some tools and foam before realising nobody would just do a stitch job basically wanted all or nothing. So we went to Stephen's old mate who offered a completely mind-boggling irresistible cash price job, so took him up on that offer. He even had the exact fabric. Got the rears back already and they needed completely re-doing due to the heat damage cracking the top piece and subsequently shrinking the fabric elsewhere. So meanwhile we've been busy fiddling around stripping it out completely of wiring, brake lines, and most of the underseal except that one spot over the tunnel that you leave until last and when last comes you go 'why on earth did I leave the worst bit til last' so you just never ever touch it again... someone want a job?? Mostly it's in great condition, although once we finally ground off the welds holding the guards to the body (first WTF moment) we found the RHS front had significant damage as bad as to completely crumple the crush tube and crease the engine bay. The damage is a bit of a financial set-back and obviously means a bigger job for compliance, so it did then require blasting and prep to be repaired. Bonus find this time round, a charming ring down in the door panel over the lock. As things go, I had it set up and masked off to blast myself, and then the compressor died. So after looking around I found C.A. Levien in Henderson to give the underneath, inner guards, engine bay, windscreen channels, and rear quarter rust patches a blast. Yes, everything except the great patina and heinous tagging. (my least favourite side, with BB gun dents and what appears to be acid damage). Even the sandblasters they thought it was hilarious to save the patina, but they made such a huge improvement on the car it actually looks purposeful now. Highly recommended, they even stored it away in it's own shed. The rear quarters were only 5% worse than expected, the underneath is absolutely fantastic, and the weird panel under rear windscreen that was mysteriously primer is happily not bog and is solid steel. Kyle was kind enough to take and send me some pictures of the process too: So after a year of ownership it was transported off again on Monday to it's new temporary home. Thankfully we found an old school repairer who will be able to save it without us finding a new front cut. From what I understand, he will cut from firewall and slowly pull the front back into original shape, beating out the creases. While it's there I may gain the fucks needed to finish off the underseal and chuck some durepox over it but probably won't. He'll also be teaching me a mix of painting and airbrushing to get the touched quarters back to their patina best. And I'll pull apart the twin dizzy to see what the options are. That's all for now folks.
    26 points
  2. North Shore Rotary Club present a 1995 Workshop Coupe (as it has only 2 doors). Back in December old mate rot808 and I bought a workshop on the North Shore for a bit of classic rotary storage, which is great because families get excited to free up their garage space but realistically it means we can now buy more Mazdas. It's a tilt slab studio spec thing with only 2 doors for less whores (maybe why the brothel unit shut down opposite us but thats another story). Based in a group of 13 or so units which keeps the bodycorp and maintenance down heaps, the neighbours are great because from the ones we have met they have classic cars, two units are mechanics, and one races Targa. Built in '95 most the other units were converted to mezzanine all the way through, but ours in one of a couple left standard with a smaller mezzanine, and more room for cars. Even 3 phase for eventual hoist storage options. The upstairs is a fair size for office/lounge area and for collection of naked lady supercar pics. The funny story about the pics is that we won the Ferrari one and was one road away from collecting it as a man brought out the Lambo one to side of road. We immediately stopped and did a u-turn to ensure it was free. It was "after 10 years in the garage my wife told me to choose between topless lady Lambo or bottomless lady Porsche", so after admiring the other choices we chucked in the Lambo and went off to pick up the Ferrari. Functionally it can host 2 Mazda's, and tightly 3. Cleared out for overseas adventures it can host 4 (thanks to our specific bathroom measurements to not exceed two Mazda's door to door) and the 5th Mazda can of course be hosted with eventual hoist but we don't own 5 (... yet) Rocked up to meet the ex-owner of the workshop in my car, to find out he owned RX7's and the guy over the road has an FC outside his too. Bonus features not listed in sale agreement are weekend rotary burnouts - did not realise this, quite happy with the outcome. So we grabbed some workshop toolboxes and shelves to act as a kitchen for an industrial theme. Even added the slam bike for a feature, and $3 plants which I eventually forgot to water and they RIP'd. So it's come a fair way in 3 months considering it's a blank canvas to try design. The bathroom was extended out with help from Mr Ryan Fels, and I left him and rot808 alone too long and they made a ridiculous small door under the stairs with handle at bottom (it's all functional now though so great job guys). Then I taught myself how to gib-stop & subsequently developed stronger language skills. My mate Leonard (the fridge) was $10 on Trademe, won before we even had the workshop, but didn't check location… so down to Tauranga and back for one of the best purchases… second only to the fabulous Rothmans cigarettes dairy sign which required pick up and storage by the lovely Danger Dane until we could fly it home. So now that it was all painted and ready to go, we had the idea to invite a concrete grinder in to take off the paint I had just applied. Forward thinking does help these situations but anyway. These 2 guys came over from a company called Auckland Concrete Grinding and worked for 3 days perfecting the floor, grinding it back around 3mm and coating it with a couple layers of penetrating sealer and coater that smells like Tolene, to become water and stain resistant. Thankfully we don't own British cars so didn't need another 3 protective coats. The results are far more impressive than we thought, we assumed a light grind would just be a lighter grey finish with none of the speckles visible but they did an amazing job. Even got the back wall coated to act as a splashback. Before, During & Afters: So that's the basics of the downstairs for now, and after sorting out the plumbing and wiring downstairs we will then start to tackle the layout. First point of confusion how to lay things out... Will be updating some of the projects as I get time, feel free to follow along and give recommendations etc.
    22 points
  3. Drivers door complete and only the boot lid to go and body work finished. Still trial fitting parts etc and once done it is off for the final blast and prime then off to paint.
    11 points
  4. Thanks man! Well, thats the big tick done - WOF Complete! Failed as expected but only on the reflectors and he had some on deck so brought those off him. Happy with that result I rode it home from the mechanics which was approx. 15 minutes on the highway. Initial thoughts are it feels small.. A bit like a gorilla on a rollerskate haha Felt good at 100kms an hour. It's got a "speed" light that comes on at around 85kms an hour which is a big red light.. Thats got to go because even though I know about it, it still makes me heart skip a beat thinking there is an oil issue. Needs a good clean, a couple little things here and there but otherwise it's a cool little bike! The "build" isn't over yet. I've just brought a new house which has a garage (woop!) so i'll be able to get it up on a lift and have more room to work with which I am super excited about. Cheers to all tho have followed so far and have been interested in the process so far - appreciate it
    6 points
  5. Got them early currently they are in the motel room with me.. too paranoid to leave in back of ute, lol.
    5 points
  6. Hondas been leaking fuel for about a year now from the fuel tank, it was a slow seep which was annoying and was mostly soaked up by the foam in the seat which stunk of gas. Also the pipes which share each side of the tank were blocked and leaking. Basically this tank has had hack after hack fixes with solider, JB weld etc... Safety first, pumped exhaust through it for about 15mins to get rid of the petrol fumes. Drilled out the old share pipes and mounted the threaded steel boss. Leak came from under the mount bracket, didn’t have a spot weld bit so just went hard with a normal bit. Pretty mank under the bracket, no paint in there so wasn’t a surprise it rusted. Welded up the holes but I reckon I’ll get the rest Tig welded as my Mig isn’t great at sealing up fuel tight. Decided on painting it, need to strip the POR15 liner as it was fkd and coming apart in the tank so I covered the whole tank inside and out in stripper. Will be repainted in black 2k
    4 points
  7. The wheels went out to Pine engineering. I was not stoked with the old fasteners. One lip was suspect. Actually a lot of stuff not real flash. I was not disappointed I had them done by Pine either.
    4 points
  8. More progress with gapping the doors bonnet and boot. All welded back together again. Trial fitting allthe exterior body parts to check all good and also fitting the front and rear screens and rear quarter windows to check new rubbers all work.
    3 points
  9. ok lets do this. impromptu burger meet @ 7PM - 17/4/19 at Spitfire Square
    2 points
  10. shit update but picking up my new wheels on thursday. Super happy as somehow managed to find exactly what i wanted, with tires and for an affordable price. Hopefully I can get this thing rolling over easter MANY EXCITE.
    2 points
  11. Did front wheel bearings, bought new front beam bearings, some other random stuff, new front calipers, greg has some new front brake hoses for me and so once i get some wheels and a new front spring pack (some of my leafs were broken) i can get it on the ground and rolling. A few things before its drive time but lists getting shorter Wheels, steering box, rear side windows, window seals, motor off @64valiant and be sweet for a drive i think i also bought a turbo legacy as a donor for a one-day engine swap dream project. Thw legacy was being sold by a mate for $750 with blown trans and 140,000km, seemed like a bargain and couldn't help it.
    2 points
  12. Proud new owner! Wanted this so much, I had it shipped up from chch. Unfortunately, previous owner ran into something, so I've been working away fixing that up. Lots and lots of other things to fix and improve. Little bits of bubbling paint really coming through, suspension is completely shot, and the 5 puck clutch makes for a pretty rough ride. Have been going over the entire engine bay hiding away many loose wires, securing power steer lines, and plugging firewall holes and the like. Here it is now, just over 2 years since the last thread update. The temporary Jolly chrome steel wheels will be for sale in the near future if anybody is interested. More to come soon! choice
    2 points
  13. Well Xmas break was a bust, ended up finding more and more rust to fix. Not that I care, I knew it was an 80's Toyota from day one. Just means the goal posts are shifted as to when it will be legal. Hoping to have it sorted for Nats. Have been slowly chipping away at it, slowly filling a container will rusty bits of car. My shrinker / stretcher has been pretty useful, makes creating curved sections much easier. Anyway, some pics of some of the repairs. No point posting the photos of all repairs, as ain't no one got time for that. Still have a many repairs to do, just need to pull finger as paint drying outside is going to be a pain come winter. This update is basically just showing my rust repairs, which is all i've done on the car since last update. Making a new rain gutter section for bottom of A-pillar. Decent surface rust that got 2-3 layers deep in some areas. Replaced with single piece. Boot latch, seal traps water above the latch. Rusted out of my other car too, so out it came. Finished section, with boot frame pieces also cut. Doesn't look pretty, but it's all welded up now, and solid as fuck, so whatever works. Drivers side boot above tail light area, other side had similar repairs. Not much was left original, I just had to replace it a section at a time, to keep the original shape as best I could. Passenger side boot hinge area Drivers side boot hinge area, or at least what was left after removing the "structural" rubber seal. This took a bit of planning, as I had to make a section that didn't exist. Just imagine someone getting frustrated and spending hours on the stretcher/shrinker having not much luck. A lot of this area is 2-3 layers thick and attaches to supports underneath. I'll have to tidy the underside up later. Not many progress pics of this bit, no time for pics when frustrated. Transfer the curve on to paper, then put folded sections into stretcher/shrinker to curve to shape to form half the gutter. And just like that it was done, so simple.... Random repair found above tail light, viewed from boot floor.. Mayte, just tack some sheet on and fold it under, no one will ever see it. There is perhaps 5% of the original boot seal area left, it has all been cut out in sections and replaced. Was just going to replace the worst bits, but the further I got into it, the further I realised the whole lot was beyond a wire wheel and paint job. So that is some of the repairs, but certainly not all of them. Need to tidy up a lot of the welds ready for epoxy primer. So will be doing that over the next month, with the intention of having it all sealed up ready for filler and paint. In between repairs i'm doing my homework on what parts i'll need to get it back on the road. Bit of a boring update, but rust gonna rust.
    2 points
  14. Been a busy two weeks of knick knacking and paddy whacking really. Had huge progress in the dismantling task, and now have it stripped back to a water blasted rolling body. This weekend I de-loomed it with various difficulties due to Japanese nimble fingers and Mexican wiring swept under holes, while Stephen dropped the fuel tank out which had 1 & 1/2 buckets worth of petrol still in… no auckland tax on that. The front windscreen didn't come out easy however as the rubber was baked more than a christmas pavlova made after a few breakfast rumballs. But with two rolls of $2 tape as support and bare fingers for guidance, we yanked the screen free and the began the painful process of smashing each little piece from the surrounding areas. Even dropped the engine out the bottom to check over if it's worth saving, and the exhaust which is definitely not worth saving. And finally on the progress, I spent a day last week softly caressing the old vinyl rear seats that crack into pieces in your fingers unless you find a 24 year old bottle of Johnsons baby oil at the back of a bathroom cabinet, and massage that into the fragile material until it's overwhelming in smell. Then I spent the remainder cleaning up plastics with thanks to rivalrx CRC suggestion, AKA the new best thing after Autosol. Note grubby handles. Got new door cards from Australia - $140 free shipping bloody impressed and awesome business card to match. Bonus items found hidden this week were a knife down the wheel arch in boot, an Escort window winder, and a monopoly house under the fuel tank. Kind regards, rotorhoe
    2 points
  15. we havent done one of these for a while, so turn up at 7PM Wednesday for an impromptu burger meet. spitfire sqaure
    1 point
  16. Hi I managed to find a full engine gasket set from the us so I've ordered one of them which will turn up next month.. Have been cracking on with putting the interior back together I'm needing a few trim clips/door card clips I guess they look like P shaped? Also the plastic circles that slot into the inner door skins so will see if can purchase some new ones. Cheers
    1 point
  17. Unfortunately I’ve been to busy with life to give anything car related some time until the last couple days. stills runs like shit, -5 stars for the eBay carby. Think the secondary sticking, maybe, fuck knows anywho, seat was buggered and found another for $80 in good con. Good bloke even dropped it off for me and had yarns about unfinished projects for over an hour. Pulled the vinyl up and... ffs ill sort it out and take it back, then DP40, then raptor coat it all black and just not bother with floor covers cause 4wd life
    1 point
  18. Chuck the probe post turbo then? Im about to fit one of those gauges in defender, I've got the water temp sensor as well so I'm replacing the temp gauge in the dash with the redarc guy. I think it's worth the money, has nice features like temp warning, relay output etc.
    1 point
  19. Burger Knight - a shadowy flight into the dangerous world of a meet that does not exist..
    1 point
  20. I remember the first time I met you sharning about duratorque tensioners. back before sharns were even called sharns.
    1 point
  21. Sounds like bhg or cracked head. Do a tk test
    1 point
  22. Test drove it to check the brakes, holy crap what a difference. I knew bigger rotors would mean more leverage but again, holy crap. Easy upgrade for lots more braking power. The original pads had a 2mm over hang (DB1170) so I changed to DB1346's which are for some kind of 4wd, possibly a Landcruiser. Exactly the same mounting holes but the pad material is a little lower. Also, after that test drive I realised that all the testing I did for the gauges meant the low fuel light wasn't lying. Filled up a couple of fuel containers with BP 98 and saw this sign and thought it was funny. Someone MUST have noticed when it was being made and just thought fck it, right? I've now fixed the turbo brace by welding on a tab to reach another bolt hole since the other bastard bolt snapped. This time I made sure to use new 8.8 bolts. Another cert thing is the bonnet never had windscreen sprayers. See: Drilled, filed and stole from the other 200sx to now have sprayers. The hole isn't as ugly as the photo suggests: Next I need to make some heat shields between the fuel line and downpipe. I am tempted to run braided line on the passenger side to get rid of the pointless hard lines along the firewall and get it away from the exhaust side. But S13's are weird and have a section of chassis rail missing on the passenger side so the fuel line wouldn't be protected for about 30cm, the only other option is the go through the trans tunnel but I'm not sure the certifier would like that. EDIT: man it feels good to drive! Sounds fcking awesome, much more aggressive idle than my old Chaser had (same engine). I think the exhaust manifold I made might help there, versus the stock log manifold design. The gearshift CUBE thingy feels so nice, the steering feels great the brakes are awesome. Big smile on my face putting it back in the garage, the way it should be. Will be interesting to see what happens with the cert which I will hopefully be able to do soon.
    1 point
  23. well thats the fan,oil cooler and front suppprt panel done. Had to cut more oit of the front.(fuck all between the lights now) Added some strengthening to the panel Even just tacked in the front feels stronger and still more to go. Its a bit tight behind it but i can still get the gan and oil cooler in and out fine. Can still get ghe grill on and a 70mm rad in and still have all the engine bay left.
    1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. Discs 280mm versus 324mm Before: After: I'll put the type x side skirts on at some stage: Also added a high stop light because the original boot one is gone due to the wing: It cost $12 and is super intelligent high spec!
    1 point
  26. Woah....been awhile since I updated this. Got some notifications.... This has been sold onto a dude in Auckland, reluctantly. . .Been building a Z31 300zx turbo since and recently acquired a 910 hardtop 4 door. I'll be creating build threads for these at some stage
    1 point
  27. Have decided to use a water air intercooler this time , I'm going to mount it in the passenger side footwell/ up against the firewall where the heater was This means the intercooler pipes can be somewhat hidden. I'll run a pipe from the turbo under the rh guard thru the firewall . Out of the intercooler there will be a pipe thru the hole where the wiper motor was, straight into the carb hat This meant I had to shift the wiper motor to inside the car under the dash which is also a bonus cause it's very ugly. So I mucked around for ages getting the position right and made this thing. Shit update but it's progress at least...
    1 point
  28. Small update.. Car is running sweet no more mechanical drama..
    1 point
  29. made some ends to cap off the bottom plate....just all tacked in for now.. the i had a look at the fan and oilcooler support panel...just had to make sure i could get the grill on...and be able to remove and replace fan and oil cooler if needed....before i weld the panel fully in..
    1 point
  30. This thing is broken also. have started to fix it. This is front suspension lower link, chassis end mount. its meant to be parallel to the chassis not bent down at the back. the force from the front link is mostly pulling straight forward. the mount has plently of strength to handle that, but it also pulls down slightly, and yeh bendy bendy this is the brace that runs up the inside of the chassis. weld held up fine but has tore a hole in the chassis, which is maybe 2-3mm thick. other side is fine as the braces run to the top of the chassis, this side was cut down as handbrake stuff was in the way. Managed to bend it back to where it needed to be, by putting the weight of the truck on the mount and using massive bit of pipe too leaver it back into place. Then plated the chassis and boxed in the mount, plus added another brace along the bottom side on both sides of the truck. wasn't much fun tig welding left handed and almost blind under there. but is stuck good. yep i changed that grease nipple so it doesn't get torn off One of the front lower links has been bent for awhile. plus had to replace the joints, with the proper johnny joints i brought ages ago ^ ^. Decided to remake all 3 links. New links are a size smaller pipe but are made from 4130. old ones are some cheese water pipe. so yeh new ones should be easily as strong and are lighter. drilled some speed holes in the retardedly overkill hand brake linkage, to make myself feel better about welding more stuff to the chassis. front uni of front driveshaft was smoked also. just looked old and corroded, rather than not being strong enough, so wacked in a new gen toyota joint. White is the old top link ^
    1 point
  31. Work on the scamp has been on the back burner a little bit lately. However a chap in my Hot rod club was in need of some 318 engine parts, so I removed the factory 2 barrel intel manifold and rebuilt carb, I could’ve stopped there but I was at a loose end so I decided to pull a head. Looks like it’s had a pretty poor service history it’s fairly black and gunky inside nothing seems overly worn however Pistons have no markings to indicate being oversized It has a small ring ridge which it to be expected, but a quick vernier of the bore (albeit on the ring ridge) shows 3.89”, stock bore should be 3.91” so looks to be stock bore heads are standard open chamber heads. Factory sized valves 1.78” in 1.5” exh. Obviously until I get it on the engine stand and drop the pants off there maybe a different story but at this point it looks like a good base to start a build with.
    1 point
  32. Have now seam sealed the front right inner wheel arch. Also got the car up on axle stands and off the trolley thing it's been on for the last 18 months and seam sealed the under side, no pics of that. Masked up the front left inner wheel arch and top coated it with Wurth 'Gravel throw and underbody protection'. I don't want to use the full fat bitumen based underseal as it's a prick to get off in the future if you ever need to - a lot of the underside of this car is still coated in it as the blaster couldn't remove it and I don't have the patience to lie on my back with a heat gun and scraper to get it off, so it can stay. This stuff seams to be favoured by those in the Porsche circles online so we will see how it goes (means I have Porsche parts on my car now right?) has the added benefit of coming in a rattle can, not sure if that means it won't last but it takes a bit of effort to scratch it once its dry.
    1 point
  33. pic I had on file, can't remember how exactly they fit to engine but seem solid enough...
    1 point
  34. Yep that's one of the options in the engine and drive train standard Usually required for an engine swap that is heavier than original, ie a 302 into a capri- upgrade the wheel studs to 1/2 and that matches , for example, a fox body mustang- they were 4 stud, 1/2 studs and factory fitted with a 302
    1 point
  35. Got the intake all done with a K&N filter, looks pretty good I think. Took a guy for a drive that knows transmission things up the road and back and he reckoned the trans was sweet, shifting how it should, just the engine was massively down on power. Tried to diagnose the problem myself but I couldn't really figure much out. It was throwing error codes for the secondary throttle and knock sensors. Discovered the secondary throttle sensor was only used for traction control so I didn't need to worry about that one. Was hoping the knock sensors were just reading high because the timing was out, so I took it to Danny's Autos in Palmy to go on the dyno and see if they can tune it and figure out what's wrong. They got it on the dyno, they were just bringing it up to speed and fuel started pissing out everywhere. One of the fuel hoses going up to the fuel rail split, don't know if it just happened or if it's been like that for awhile, but we never noticed any fuel in the valley before, where as there was heaps in it then. So off came the intake and manifold to replace it. Whilst they had that off they had a look at the knock sensors and they had seen better days. The wiring pins were pretty corroded and the casings were cracked. They sourced some new OEM ones and chucked them in. They also found one of the breather hoses had a split, as well as one of the igniter modules was only firing 1 of 4 cylinders on that one side. So basically this has only been running on 5 cylinders all this time. Thought it didn't sound quite right haha. The steering rack also decided to start leaking power steering fluid out of a place the fluid shouldn't be. Beach Hop was the next week and the rack had to be sent to Auckland to be rebuilt. Managed to get the engine back together and drive it home on the Tuesday night and pull out the rack to be sent off on Wednesday. Luckily they got around to rebuilding it fairly quick and sent off again so it arrived first thing on Friday morning. Got a different igniter module from the wreckers off a SR20 and it ran waaaaaay better! Chucked the rack back in Friday morning and took it for a WOF, passed with flying colours, so went and got some rego and now it's all legal!!!! On Friday/Saturday the fuel pump must of came out about a dozen times, half of which were on the side of the road. Went for a bit of a drive and the fuel pump kept dying for some reason, thought maybe the wiring in-tank was a bit dodgy, replaced it all and soldered every connector, that didn't make much difference. Discovered that if I gave the pump a good smack it would start back up pumping a bit more fuel or just die completely. Decided to get another fuel pump from Repco and chucked that in. Turns out the brand new "genuine" Walbro pump I got off ebay was shit. Went sooooo much better again!! Took it to the 4 & Rotary Jamboree show and shine at Manfield on the Sunday and took home the Best Commercial Piston trophy. Then on the Monday took it back into Danny's Autos to get dyno'd. Made 100kw at the wheels which I thought wasn't quite right (should be closer to 200kw?), but he reckoned it was running right and just the reading wasn't that accurate, he had trouble getting into 4th, kept changing down, so had to do it in third and that was maxing out the dyno's rolling speed. It had good consistent 02 sensor readings. Took it up to Beach Hop on the Wednesday. Had no issues other than getting some brake fade through the windy bits between Waihi and Whangamata, we think there must of still been some air left in the lines. After that happened I was changing it manually between 2nd and 3rd gear through the windy bits, rather than just leaving it in drive as it engine brakes way more. Survived all through Beach Hop, including going up to Whitianga, Kuaotuna and Onemana as well as cruising up and down the main street lots, the rear bumper took a few scrapes, I think it needs some titanium stripes underneath! I think it was one of the cars that got some of the most attention. Managed to get all the way back down to Marton, then when I was overtaking up a hill, noticed smoke coming from under the dash, so quickly pulled over and checked it out. The transmission sump had either smoke or steam since it was raining coming off of it, also smelt very burnt and the oil was quite dark. My parents caught up and we decided to just keep driving. I then noticed it was revving at 3500rpm at 100km/h, where as it's usually around about 1800rpm. It was only changing from first into second gear and that's it, if I took my foot off the accelerator it would drop straight down to idle. It was a slow drive home from there at 70km/h. Next couple of days I pulled the trans out, pulled off the sump and it had quite a bit of metallic build up at the bottom and just smelt very burnt. I guess it's always been slipping, as to why it didn't make much power on the dyno. Dropped it off today to get a quote on being rebuilt, so hopefully it's not too bad. It used about $400 worth of petrol over Beach Hop, which I think worked out to be 15 l/100km. After driving it for about 1200km I have decided the seat definitely needs redoing, it's way too hard, would also be nice to sit a bit lower and further back as well. Also the accelerator pedal has your foot at too much of an angle back, so gets sore rather quick. Shouldn't be too hard to fix as the seat changes should help and just modify the pedal a little. Also the door latches + door seals are terrible, takes way too much effort to get them closing right. A softer door seal might help, and you can get bear jaw latch kits that are basically a bolt in thing for these which might be the go when I have the spare money.
    1 point
  36. Wheels were next, as well as rear shocks. I plan to replace the rear shocks with something decent but I wanted to do something about the ones I had in the interim. Left is how they came, right is after a clean before I went to town with some sand paper Below is the "finished product" Back to electrics.. It was time to wire up my new tail light (integrated indicators) For the life of me I couldn't get the tail light to work. I knew it wasn't a faulty light as I was able to test on a known working circuit so was time to figure out what was wrong. Fortunately I had a spare loom so I split that up and started tracing the wire back to the front of the bike. I tested the wire at both ends and was able to get continuity so ruled that out. Tested the power where it was coming from and was also getting power. So it was time to test the switches. This was a pig of a job.. So many little fiddly buggers Put all back together and still the same problem. I went back to square on and found it was the feed that was feeding the tail light that was buggered.. I found the speedo back light feed and just rewired it to that feed. Job done and was able to keep it nice and tidy too. I assembled the bike now that all my painted bits were dry and rolled it out of the shed for some Vit D for the first time in 4 months and gave the shed a good clean
    1 point
  37. I wanted to retain the factory decals on the bike but I wasn't a fan of the colour and I felt like it wasn't a good fit for the overall vibe of the bike so I touched base with my go-to sign writer and he made me some custom decals. I went with a gloss black and matt black combination. I'm chuffed with how these came out. The side covers are super low key so you can only see them in certain light.
    1 point
  38. So, a lot has happened and the car is now running around again for the first time in a long time. I decided that I didn't have time to get an after market ECU and tune sorted, but I did have time to buy a crashed FX-GT with a small port inside, which I could pinch the loom and ecu from and get this motor I have here running. I swapped in some stock small port cams. The stock ecu should handle the rest of the mods fine! so far so good anyways... anywho: Stock small port loom: 2019-02-17 15.20.50 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Unmasked, and all of the unnecessary stuff removed. Like the cold start circuitry, the alternator loom (AE86 run a separate loom from the engine loom from factory), the diagnostics plug (although would have been helpful, required a bit of extra effort to incorporate it with the original AE86 body loom), and I think that's it...: 2019-02-17 16.13.24 by phillipbaines, on Flickr I had a spare motor on the engine stand so dummied everything up against that then dropped the new small port loom in: 2019-02-24 16.24.57 by phillipbaines, on Flickr spaghetti junction down below to check that the engine works before taping and conduiting together 2019-02-24 16.25.06 by phillipbaines, on Flickr I made one big boo-boo on this swap and completely lost the body loom plug for the ECU. I definitely cut it and put it somewhere safe, the problem is that the safe place is even hidden from a 24-hour later Phil.... dammit. So I headshrinked the terminals over and just put them on the ecu terminals. they're in there fine and will not pop out but it still annoys me. Hopefully I can find another ECU plug at some point and do a proper job of it... 2019-03-09 07.45.28 by phillipbaines, on Flickr I went for a drive and forgot how low the dam thing was and sort of broke the front bumper over a small drain.. dammit. lucky it was just a cheap fibre glass one and can easily find a replacement. TODO at a later date. Attached the front license plate, not in the middle as I was having problems on the track with head and thought I would get one last thing out of the way of the radiator. That was with a stock bumper so maybe this one will be better regardless 2019-03-24 18.52.04 by phillipbaines, on Flickr filters on, dizzy lines looking pretty ecu. Need to mount the fuse box properly.. 2019-03-24 18.52.18 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 2019-03-24 18.57.12 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 2019-03-24 18.57.31 by phillipbaines, on Flickr This is the vauum line, seems to be working okay. Blue line goes to FPR, small black line goes to the MAP sensor which works (the other one in the pic is broken and took me a while to diagnose! eurgh. other line goes to the brake booster. This should work fine going forward unless anyone has any suggestions of another way to do it?? 2019-03-24 18.57.57 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Rear long-boiz 2019-03-24 18.59.53 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Front long-boiz (I am getting new tyres on the front with less wall so they'll match the rear better) 2019-03-24 19.00.04 by phillipbaines, on Flickr first sort of run underway, yes the timing belt was a bit tight, that's since been fixed. I'll get a proper video of it running once it's proven itself to be good On to Toyota Festival! Discussion:
    1 point
  39. OK so the motor is pretty much ready to drop in. 2019-03-12_04-30-05 by Richard Opie, on Flickr I've been tidying things up, thanks to blasting and VHT Epoxy black. Fuck I love VHT Epoxy black. 20190102_164709 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 20190120_184608 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 20190120_184624 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 20190120_184637 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 20190120_184653 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 20190120_184724(0) by Richard Opie, on Flickr 20190127_124320 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Even the wiper linkages got a refresh! 20190216_154907 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Sump and crossmember also got the treatment. 20190219_185312 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Back on with a bit of Toyota Grey Sealant and carefully torqued up oil pan bolts. As an aside, when I took this off to have a nosy in the engine also, it turned out the oil pump bolts were only finger tight. Whew. 20190105_160736 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Nick the Sparky helped me rebuild the alternator and starter. 20190126_133528 by Richard Opie, on Flickr @Stu popped in and finished up the wee loom for the front of engine bits, so the cam/crank sensors etc are all sorted out. Here's kpr's lush crank angle sensor installed, in blurryish technicolor. Project KP61 2019 (6) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Project KP61 2019 (10) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Project KP61 2019 (90) by Richard Opie, on Flickr I've chucked all the brand new plastics/seals on the front (Toyota still carry a lot of things) and stuck the new 4AGE sticker on the front. Important. Project KP61 2019 (84) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Project KP61 2019 (75) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Project KP61 2019 (21) by Richard Opie, on Flickr This weekend the idea is to drop it back in the hole and then at some point wire it all up. Yay? YAY!
    1 point
  40. Not much to report, have just been working on removing the underseal, lots easier with a hoist, but still not fun. On the plus side I’m finding lots of nice metal. which has left a nice pile of crap on the floor
    1 point
  41. Insert chat thread here...
    1 point
  42. Decided media blasting was not really required. wire buff and rust kill many times over and then as soon as the steel way dry on with the first coat of epoxy.
    1 point
  43. Started to pull the VJ valiant brakes apart, looks like they should bolt straight in, lower ball joints are different in the steering arm between the Plymouth and valiant but the bolt pattern is spot on Upper ball joints look all good too, I’ve decided that When I get new rotors I’ll get them redrilled to siut the SBP (5x4) so i can keep the 14” steelies (as long as they fit over the brakes) i gave the car a clean and decided to sit the eagers by it, gives a rough idea of the look I’m going for
    1 point
  44. Went to have a look at the Cortina today and more good progress. Front end all fitted off ready for final gapping and welding. Rear quarters removed for dipping and the whole lot very clean underneath so well impressed. RHS boot floor needs a replacement section and then it’s mount the body on the rotisserie for blasting before final rear panel fit off.
    1 point
  45. next meet: Burgerfuel at Spitfire Square out by the airport from 7pm see ya there Discussion Thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/Chenery/
    1 point
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