Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/09/19 in all areas

  1. Still plodding away, got a pair of Slam Specialties RE5s for the front, would of likes to run the larger RE6s up front but they're a bit marginal for clearance on the diameter front and I'd rather not risk having a bag rubbing on something. Hot glue gunned some mounts together, all designed to be bolt in: Full Squash (onto factory bumpstops), followed by full droop - looking like I'll need limiting straps at full droop to stop all the weight hanging from the bag. Back when this was at the panel beaters I made a day trip with Ned to Mercworx is Tirau in search of a new boot, as mine was full of cheese. took a punt on one that had a dent in it but look solid. Finally got around to getting it blasted and primed at Autoblast and, other than coming back in the wrong primer and having a couple of dents in it, it looks ace - not a spot of rust in it. New one on top of old one: Have started seam sealing the underside, started with the front left wheel arch. Initially tried masking up the lines to give a cleaner finish but have decided that isn't worth the effort; a finger swipe gives the best outcome. (as an aside when Wurth say their seam sealer is 'brushable' they're using that term very optimistially) Hopefully have the underside seam sealed by the weekend touch wood.
    6 points
  2. So have managed to progress with this some more! Got it all back from painter Doors all on lined up not perfect but will wait till front guards are on Fitted all new door rubbers and window guides Got the motor In Swapped over the end T piece of the steering collumn to the shorter power steering one from a ms110 And fitted it back in car Found out the auto and manual pedal boxes are the same manual just has a mount for pedal so I just removed the clutch pedal and refitted as this will be auto. Painted the brake booster and fitted the new Nissan pajero brake master. That's all for now! Exciting times
    5 points
  3. Thanks team! I'm certainly enjoying the process. I banged it on the back of a trailer today and took it down for a WOF check. I've never used this guy before but he comes highly recommended and has had quite a few GB's in there over the year. Seemed like a pretty straight up/no bullshit kind of guy which I like. Not much room between me and the ground so I want a thorough check.. It was cool seeing all the necks it snapped driving through town. I heard a few people make comments about the "cool bike" haha Obligatory photo for thread. Hondaception
    3 points
  4. I've had to tweak the L/H manifold to get past the clutch slave, just rotated the flange by 90 degrees. I also made up the new clutch hard line. Engine mounts are done and bolted on for the last time. The new flywheel/clutch/bell housing combo had a weird issue where the thrust bearing would just about fall off the nose of the gearbox before the clutch was disengaged. I guess I could have spaced out the flywheel but I didn't like the reduced starter teeth engagement, so I ended up having the nose lengthened by 10mm by my local engineer. He made a nice job where the extension is pressed in another 10mm inside from the join, I feel much better about it now. I've just got to finish adjusting the pivot ball length & slave cylinder angle, then the whole lump should be ready to bolt in!
    3 points
  5. got some gas so finished the passenger side sill then moved on the the rust in the passenger side wheel well then the passenger outer guard and the passenger rear 1/4 the there is the front....i wanted to do the front lower panel rust..but i realized i needed to make the radiator support parts first and to do that i needed to cut everything thing out i didn't want.
    3 points
  6. I got this off Zac a few years ago, it's been sitting in storage but I'm getting the bits together so I can assemble it then it'll get sold. I bought some 0.5mm oversize NA (9:1) pistons and bearings from Rockauto. The block was bored by North Canterbury Engine Reconditioners to suit the pistons, he also decked the block and polished the crank for me. I'm converting an Evo 3 head to use the cam and crank trigger setups that some of the other 4G63s ran, I bought new sensors also from Rockauto. I've welded up the injector holes on an Evo 4 inlet manifold so I can use it with the Evo 3 head and have the throttle body facing the correct way. Still need to get lots of other bits, oil pump, sump, turbo and manifold, flywheel and clutch etc etc.
    2 points
  7. Nice cardboard box arrived from the UK. JAP V twin engine kit set, some assembly required..... Should keep me busy for a bit.
    2 points
  8. "Test Drive" turned into blasting around in it for large parts of the afternoon, reckon I've done about 45 miles or so. Brakes are fine and it goes pretty hard (for what it is). Handles really nice and is no way stock in the springs & shocks department. Tweaked the timing a bit and it's just rattling a little under heavy load, I'll try some octane booster tomorrow that will sort it out hopefully. It was blowing oil smoke for the first 5 miles but a couple of hot & cold cycles seems to have freed the rings up a treat. Haven't revved it beyond 4 grand yet but it feels pretty strong. Over all I'm pretty bloody chuffed with it, it's a really nice car. Bit of a clonk in the drivetrain but it only sounds like a UJ. Water pump bearing's a bit wobbly and it needs a new rad cap but it held temperature & oil pressure despite some enthusiastic driving. Vids for your entertainment... What ? Skid you say ? So, it's all good. Gonna do the wheels bronze and paint the rear panel black between the lights but apart from that, roll on summer.... * Also, side-sharn.... About 5 years ago I was chatting to the in-laws neighbour about cars. Started telling him about the Hako and he said " Fucking Japanese shit, I'm not interested in those useless bits of crap". We popped round to Carols folks earlier and the neighbour drove by as we were leaving. He fucking loved the Skyline, was all over it and asked if I wanted to sell it. I ignored him. Silly bugger.
    2 points
  9. i gave the center console a tidy up and a coat of paint. 2019-04-07_11-14-14 by sheepers, on Flickr then i climbed into the boot and started prepping it for paint. managed to get it ready without to much back pain so i decided to try and paint it. 2019-04-07_11-14-36 by sheepers, on Flickr came out really good so now i can put some seam sealer in the gaps and sand it all up ready for some colour.
    2 points
  10. Got the intake all done with a K&N filter, looks pretty good I think. Took a guy for a drive that knows transmission things up the road and back and he reckoned the trans was sweet, shifting how it should, just the engine was massively down on power. Tried to diagnose the problem myself but I couldn't really figure much out. It was throwing error codes for the secondary throttle and knock sensors. Discovered the secondary throttle sensor was only used for traction control so I didn't need to worry about that one. Was hoping the knock sensors were just reading high because the timing was out, so I took it to Danny's Autos in Palmy to go on the dyno and see if they can tune it and figure out what's wrong. They got it on the dyno, they were just bringing it up to speed and fuel started pissing out everywhere. One of the fuel hoses going up to the fuel rail split, don't know if it just happened or if it's been like that for awhile, but we never noticed any fuel in the valley before, where as there was heaps in it then. So off came the intake and manifold to replace it. Whilst they had that off they had a look at the knock sensors and they had seen better days. The wiring pins were pretty corroded and the casings were cracked. They sourced some new OEM ones and chucked them in. They also found one of the breather hoses had a split, as well as one of the igniter modules was only firing 1 of 4 cylinders on that one side. So basically this has only been running on 5 cylinders all this time. Thought it didn't sound quite right haha. The steering rack also decided to start leaking power steering fluid out of a place the fluid shouldn't be. Beach Hop was the next week and the rack had to be sent to Auckland to be rebuilt. Managed to get the engine back together and drive it home on the Tuesday night and pull out the rack to be sent off on Wednesday. Luckily they got around to rebuilding it fairly quick and sent off again so it arrived first thing on Friday morning. Got a different igniter module from the wreckers off a SR20 and it ran waaaaaay better! Chucked the rack back in Friday morning and took it for a WOF, passed with flying colours, so went and got some rego and now it's all legal!!!! On Friday/Saturday the fuel pump must of came out about a dozen times, half of which were on the side of the road. Went for a bit of a drive and the fuel pump kept dying for some reason, thought maybe the wiring in-tank was a bit dodgy, replaced it all and soldered every connector, that didn't make much difference. Discovered that if I gave the pump a good smack it would start back up pumping a bit more fuel or just die completely. Decided to get another fuel pump from Repco and chucked that in. Turns out the brand new "genuine" Walbro pump I got off ebay was shit. Went sooooo much better again!! Took it to the 4 & Rotary Jamboree show and shine at Manfield on the Sunday and took home the Best Commercial Piston trophy. Then on the Monday took it back into Danny's Autos to get dyno'd. Made 100kw at the wheels which I thought wasn't quite right (should be closer to 200kw?), but he reckoned it was running right and just the reading wasn't that accurate, he had trouble getting into 4th, kept changing down, so had to do it in third and that was maxing out the dyno's rolling speed. It had good consistent 02 sensor readings. Took it up to Beach Hop on the Wednesday. Had no issues other than getting some brake fade through the windy bits between Waihi and Whangamata, we think there must of still been some air left in the lines. After that happened I was changing it manually between 2nd and 3rd gear through the windy bits, rather than just leaving it in drive as it engine brakes way more. Survived all through Beach Hop, including going up to Whitianga, Kuaotuna and Onemana as well as cruising up and down the main street lots, the rear bumper took a few scrapes, I think it needs some titanium stripes underneath! I think it was one of the cars that got some of the most attention. Managed to get all the way back down to Marton, then when I was overtaking up a hill, noticed smoke coming from under the dash, so quickly pulled over and checked it out. The transmission sump had either smoke or steam since it was raining coming off of it, also smelt very burnt and the oil was quite dark. My parents caught up and we decided to just keep driving. I then noticed it was revving at 3500rpm at 100km/h, where as it's usually around about 1800rpm. It was only changing from first into second gear and that's it, if I took my foot off the accelerator it would drop straight down to idle. It was a slow drive home from there at 70km/h. Next couple of days I pulled the trans out, pulled off the sump and it had quite a bit of metallic build up at the bottom and just smelt very burnt. I guess it's always been slipping, as to why it didn't make much power on the dyno. Dropped it off today to get a quote on being rebuilt, so hopefully it's not too bad. It used about $400 worth of petrol over Beach Hop, which I think worked out to be 15 l/100km. After driving it for about 1200km I have decided the seat definitely needs redoing, it's way too hard, would also be nice to sit a bit lower and further back as well. Also the accelerator pedal has your foot at too much of an angle back, so gets sore rather quick. Shouldn't be too hard to fix as the seat changes should help and just modify the pedal a little. Also the door latches + door seals are terrible, takes way too much effort to get them closing right. A softer door seal might help, and you can get bear jaw latch kits that are basically a bolt in thing for these which might be the go when I have the spare money.
    2 points
  11. Update for those interested Repair Cert PASS Compliance and WOF all PASSED apart from the below 2 points - tighten hand brake cable - fix slight leak in return line to gas tank brass fitting Cert Clint did the cert on Friday and I’ve attached the list. I just need to work through that list and take it back for the brake road test. I also need the old old owner from USA to email that he sold me the car - I keep in touch so that won’t be an issue. Now to work through the list and get this sled legal. Am I happy? Yes, the answer is YES!
    2 points
  12. Wheels were next, as well as rear shocks. I plan to replace the rear shocks with something decent but I wanted to do something about the ones I had in the interim. Left is how they came, right is after a clean before I went to town with some sand paper Below is the "finished product" Back to electrics.. It was time to wire up my new tail light (integrated indicators) For the life of me I couldn't get the tail light to work. I knew it wasn't a faulty light as I was able to test on a known working circuit so was time to figure out what was wrong. Fortunately I had a spare loom so I split that up and started tracing the wire back to the front of the bike. I tested the wire at both ends and was able to get continuity so ruled that out. Tested the power where it was coming from and was also getting power. So it was time to test the switches. This was a pig of a job.. So many little fiddly buggers Put all back together and still the same problem. I went back to square on and found it was the feed that was feeding the tail light that was buggered.. I found the speedo back light feed and just rewired it to that feed. Job done and was able to keep it nice and tidy too. I assembled the bike now that all my painted bits were dry and rolled it out of the shed for some Vit D for the first time in 4 months and gave the shed a good clean
    2 points
  13. You need to make sure you get brackets to suit the calipers as r32 are different to R32 GTR, R33 and R34 R32GTR and R33 are the same R34 sit higher as they are for a larger rotor and then brembos are different again https://au.gktech.com/products/brakes/brake-adapters but thankfully they are avilable You can find caliper identification info online fairly easy
    1 point
  14. Has been suggested to the boy to get fibreglass replacement panels too. As for the chassis, wait & see. The tin arsed shit is likely to trip over another better one, as he drives a stock truck round Southland.
    1 point
  15. Definitely not clear on the website, I've read through every bit of info on there. Seems like an oversight - I guess email info@wheelsatwanaka.co.nz If you need a hand with shuttling or towing or whatever let me know, as I'll have a car with a towball and staying with my in-laws so plenty of time to kill...
    1 point
  16. Migrane yesterday meant I got nothing done in garage. I chipped away at more stuff today. I got the cv shafts in and reassembled a inner that had popped out. Filled the gearbag with fluid. The rad support got a lick of paint to cover my butchery and make it match. I refitted the radius rods with new bushes and went to bolt in the crossmember only to find it hits the manifold. A quick tickle with the grinder should fix that. I will have to make up a support bracket for the back of the motor as its a long length of pipe to support from just the head. It did start up and is a fair bit quieter now which I'm happy with. I'll only find out if the drone is gone when I drive it. Another couple of evenings and I'll be drivable again
    1 point
  17. I will count them soon, they are all in the 1.5 to 3 turn range, idle AFRs are in the 12-13 range with small adjustments either way was making a big difference. I will richen it up a bit no longer an issue after remove, trim and refit 'is it possible it might be messing with me' he asks! "possible"? POSSIBLE!!!!111!!1 (shakes head walking away, throws arms up dramatically)
    1 point
  18. Google translate says "Good Traffic". I concur and I thank you. /although I don't know why.... //blardy poms.
    1 point
  19. I have no running OS projects/nothing new then. But keen for a meet up.
    1 point
  20. Started on the floor at the back. The cover over the diff will be able to be removed should we ever need access to the diff, air bags or what ever from the top. A few folded strips added for both strengthening and to giving us a place to attach the main 2mil sheet cover added first with nutserts. Cover that had been pre cut n folded dropped in place pretty much with a bit of tapping. The shelf is the perfect place for the Ridetech 5 gallon tank, twin pumps and all the other air ride junk. With it up there out of the way it frees up space in the boot/trunk. Positioned to the side to leave space for the stereo amp or what ever else. Need to get a few counter sunk bolts to attach the fuse panel. the 5 gallon tank has 5 outlets (not including drain ofc) three are used by the system. another I have put a tire inflation valve on just encase both the pumps die it gives me the option to pump it up at a service station. the last im thinking of putting a fitting on so I can plug in a hose that can be used to inflate tires. The system comes with multiple ways to control. Bluetooth/cell phone/tablet, remotes, or a control panel. Will mount the control panel on the air pod board at the back there.
    1 point
  21. these ones had equal length shafts so i left them where they were and trimmed them Good Question! Mainly cause I used up my car time and had to do something else. Next day i did go for a hoon, went ok (better than the single carb!), but rich and lean spots and hanging on idle, etc, carbs not going back to idle in balance, etc So, I pulled off the carbs tweaked/ground back the linkage a bit more (master and slave levers were interfering with each other a bit), drilled the carbs mounting holes to 9mm (from 8.5) for that little extra bit of slack, reset the float levels, (12mm for these newer ones with a 26mm droop vs 8.5 and 15mm for the older style) pulled all the jets and gave them a clean out - two main jet stacks were not fully seated, and one accelerator pump jet was blocked ground some of the dizzy scoop on the manifold some more (while i could feel how thick the wall was with the carbs off) installed carbs and rebalanced/set idles etc hooned Great success, but does have a lean point off idle (progression holes?) and is a bit rich elsewhere esp on WoT, thinking of upping the mains to the 135 i have (up from 125) but also increasing the air corrector to reduce the richness at higher rpm (190 currently, no spares), but that is for later. Engine runs and pulls much better than with the single already, sounds great on song and has a pleasing burble at idle, and near silent on cruise with an instant response to stabs of the jandle. reccomended
    1 point
  22. Rerouted the fuel line to how i planned it, with the fuel pressure gauge between the two carbs In a timely event, these turned up from @ul9601 and so after reading the relevant section i tuned my MAN-O-METER to 11 and made this very very boring and poorly shot video, which is pretty much the 2nd start after getting it to fire and idle and me tuning it by how tall the rod is on my MAN Engines really tappy! ill redo the shims soon. Next day i tuned it a bit more, 1. balancing the barrels on each carb to each other using the air bleed screws (bleed the highest reading to match the lowest) and idle (small adjsutments), then 2. then balancing the carbs to each other (bleed the highest to the lowest side), then 3. adjusting the idle mix (leanest smooth idle, turn 1/2 turn one way at a time until it slows, then back the other way until speed drops then keep halving the difference until you find the spot 1/4 turn above the lean speed drop point) and back around to step 1 again, etc Turned out the timing was pretty retarded too, but also found a better dizzy spot. Had a dig though the filters stash to see what would work. The big factory thing is the Strada Abarth manifold (fwd) and the blue line is wehre i would need to cut it Tuned out only the worlds greatest filter will fit. Even then the (K&N) bases needed a tweak to fit (My 125 Belina has socks over trumpets) RACE MODE (now i see it in the photo, I dont like the look of those trumpet retaining bolts just waiting to wiggle out and fall into the carb. NO SIR) However, small children and animals no longer in danger of ingestion. Check the clearance to the shock tower. Be a real faff to make the Strada filter thing fit unfortunately, would need a custom airbox and a cut and shut, but would also be better than the Ramflows Test drive soon
    1 point
  23. The last manky fuel tank I had, I took it to a radiator repair shop, gave him $40 and I picked it up the next day all clean.
    1 point
  24. I am offically back in whangarei. Lets get meets going @MACKAZ @rb drifter @ESKIN8R @ruff kunt automotive @WhangareiKE70
    1 point
  25. I wanted to retain the factory decals on the bike but I wasn't a fan of the colour and I felt like it wasn't a good fit for the overall vibe of the bike so I touched base with my go-to sign writer and he made me some custom decals. I went with a gloss black and matt black combination. I'm chuffed with how these came out. The side covers are super low key so you can only see them in certain light.
    1 point
  26. Links shouldn't be dead? I'll check now. edit - nope it's there https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V3_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf Will hopefully be updating that again sometime soon. (I have the wheels and tyres standard on my desk for updating)
    1 point
  27. Thought I would try a new look 17x8 d windows looks good to me just need white lettering on the tires
    1 point
  28. dragged it out of storage got a wof and some rego, and a well needed clean
    1 point
  29. the passenger side sill....it was smashed in ...i tried with my huge dent puller but decided to cut into it........till the gas run out.
    1 point
  30. When i brought the boat, it basically had no outboard well.. The builder didnt think it would plane so sized the transom to take a 15hp motor In order to fit a larger outboard, my and a mate built a alloy pod to hold it. Fitted a Suzuki DT65 that was sold as a write off due to severe corrosion in the bores Put a new headgasket on it and ran it like that for 3 years, until it finally started showing compression issues. Started looking for a new engine, but it had to have a left hand sided control because for some reason my boat is left hook Last week i aquired its new engine.
    1 point
  31. More progress with gapping the doors bonnet and boot. All welded back together again. Trial fitting allthe exterior body parts to check all good and also fitting the front and rear screens and rear quarter windows to check new rubbers all work.
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. Hi Been a little while since update work has really been crazy busy last month or so this got put on the back burner.. Anyway what I have got done was finished all the doors ready for final blocking which booked in for paint on sat I'll block tomorrow before carefully taking them to him.. Ready for final sand tomorrow. Started on the rears had blocked n epoxied rub thrus After bogging and sanding and high building then blocking back using guide coat I ended up with Sanded and applied another coat of high build Have since sprayed guide coat for final sand tomorrow before painted Saturday Got the hinges and radiator support back from powerstrip industries. Scuffed with scotch pad and gave em all few coats of epoxy So all going well all these bits will be painted on sat too so I can begin reassemble. New lushious red carpet from autodec I gave them the orginials so they should fit pretty well all going well. Photo sort of looks pink but it isnt as you can see from this next photo Also some new stuff from Thailand turned up Full set of new door rubbers Some new window channels Power steering pump which I'll send away with the power steering box for rebuild. That's all for now Weve pretty much caught up with work so I have a few quiet weeks so looking forward to get stuck in! Thanks for looking
    1 point
  34. The old man is nearly 80 years old. Still tough as fuck and doing shit that half the 40 year olds have given up on. I was in his shed and noticed his ladder...hmmm????? He looked embarrassed, and said there's obviously a story that goes with it...but it can wait for another day. He asked if I could take it to the dump for him "no fucking way" was my reply! So: And problem solved. Plus it's not as far for him to fall off this time:)
    1 point
  35. He’s super keen to wrench, good way to spend the long weekend! Had to drop the 1uz in for motivation! I'm surprised how well it fits! Clearance is tight, but tidy.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Auckland/GMT+13:00
×
×
  • Create New...