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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/02/19 in all areas

  1. Most of them drink either Speights or Tui... but the pub had pretty much run out of beer when I left last week. I heard the ship arrived this morning so there's going to be 300 4x4 utes lined up at the port to collect pallets of grog. Lol. Oh, in other news:
    19 points
  2. If I can afford it I'll stash a few dozen Panhead beers in the cab, but apart from that it'll be loaded with tools. Unfortunately I don't have the amounts of money I used to have, so I can't leverage on the freight as much as I'd like to. I haven't been this broke since my early 20s, but I haven't been this happy since then either.
    10 points
  3. So after getting rolled by the 5.0 on the Chaly, that got its innards stripped to finish another bike. @Raizer found this in a garden in Gisborne, and pulled it from its slumber. It had been sitting under a tarp in the long grass for a while developing a killer patina while actually staying fairly complete with all OG parts, I collected it off him and dragged it home in a 12+ hour round trip from Auckland. The 'GardenCub' Its pretty sweet, fairly ratty and suprisingly solid. The externally rusty wheels were found to be immaculate internally after removing the super cracked tyres. It even had the original, matching patina legsheild. The engine was seized, the carb had an ant nest inside it and the seat base disappeared aftter the strands of foam holding the corroded base together cried enough in the trailer and scattered rust flakes all through the gorge. Id been wanting a Cub since, well, probably seeing QCR on the news / in NZPC and pined over the Peaks Mopeds type style of OG paint, maximum slam and chopped up standard bars. This had been in the corner of the shed, and over time I progressively stripped it down, washed all the gunk out of its crevices, renewed wheel bearings, freed up seized pivots on the brakes, ordered replacement cables, brake shoes, pestered @MopedNZ to find me the style tyres I wanted (He had to get his work to open an account with a supplier just for me <3), put feelers out for a few parts my bike was missing -taillight etc ( hoarded all the old stock parts people were removing to customize there cubs} all while trying to preserve as much of the patina on any externally visible surfaces as possible. I stripped and rebuilt the original engine with a new top end, all gaskets/seals, reconditioned cylinder head and got it running but had a terrible time with the carb so it sat in the corner of the shed while I was caught up with a few other things, Then the chaly got decommissioned so the motor got pulled and Chaly motor swapped into this along with a trailtech, and rewired from scratch. In my pile of other peoples discarded parts I had a spare stock ehaust, so the front of that got chopped off, muffler hollowed and a new header made from misc larger diameter stainless bends to suit the new engine. Handle bars were a spare I acquired to use as a trial for my first attempt at fab work / welding before I committed to butchering the original bars. They've been narrowed about 100mm over stock to get rid of the indicators, aswell as being pulled back and down to match the angles of the legsheild. I also remade the bar cover to follow the lines of the bars while still trying to keep them fairly factory looking in the way they tuck into the switches. I reused the original grips, slide throttle asm, speedo and switch assemblies. They're not as narrow as Id like them to be, but they're the same width as the rear rack, and have super comfortable angles. Fairly happy with them as a first attempt considering at the time I wasnt quite confident enough to go butchering and re making the handlebar mounting points. Bag and spine rack were an ebay special -rate these for chucking drinks/junk in, Legsheilds a repro thats been aged to match the bike as I couldnt bring myself to cut the OG one to fit the carb off the chaly motor, Deluxe fork cover and legsheild clamp are OG stuff pulled from my pile of parts Ive added to add to the OEM+ spec asthetic I was going for. @MopedNZ was kind enough to bring me back a set of Draft Kustom Shop Lowdown links from his previous trip to Thailand in 2018. These are sweet and give a 30mm drop over stock, but that wasn't enough for the look I was wanting so when installing them, along with fresh bushes, They also got the QCR mod done to prevent lift under braking and a couple of other custom touches to chop closer to 60mm out of the ride height to get the guard destroying ride height I was after. resulting in the front guard and fork cover being clearanced nicely by the radial tread pattern of the tyre. PERFECT. The rear got bought down to match via shortening of the factory springs/shocks. Still retains a very little bit of suspension travel which is nice.
    8 points
  4. Since 'finishing' it in Janurary, Ive put close to 1000 trouble free km on it. Theres a few things I need to sort (raise foot pegs and replace the brake pedal as its rubbed through from dragging while cornering) but overall Im pretty happy with it. Its turned out pretty much the way I envisioned it. However, I have a couple of plans for changes to be made. Id like to sort the carb issues with its original motor and get that back in, A few asthetic refinements and as I get more confident with welding maybe some wilder bars... But theres a couple of other projects under way in the shed so stay tuned
    7 points
  5. Do you realise what this means? You'll be able to discover how much wood would a wood lift lift, now that a would lift could lift wood! (sorry, I'll show myself out...)
    7 points
  6. Finally went and got ol mate @EURON8 to ally weld the holes in the already hacked up side draft manifold so i could space the carbs apart about 4mm from where they were but without fouling on the dizzy or loosing room to seal or flow. some careful 'linishing' later Without any trimming the inner barrells will be 49mm apart, manifold spacing is 40mm, min i can get away with on the carbs is 45mm, max on the manifold is 44mm. its pretty flippin tight and doesnt add up... shaft need trimming by 3 to 4mm and the nuts thinned down a bit as well - i ended up spinning about 3 out of the vice, so i need some more M7 nuts to fit back on the venturi retainers i stole my spares from! no need for retaining washers :/ You can also see how offset the carbs are to the manifold Redrilled and tapped - had to open a old NOS packet to get a 5/16 NSP tap out that had been floating around in my grandads too box for who knows how long before that Fitting the o ring holders show where the manifold needs a smidge of smoothing, about 15 seconds with the belt file. The outer edge of the o-ring diameter is just inside the edge of the manifold face. linkage mod, toyota corolla cable from the old single carb set up to twin weber linkage, all this is sandwiched between the carbs boom AS mentioned in a previous post, these carbs came from a very hot mini, and apart from the drilled and soldered main jets, they all looked very close to what various books and setting tables suggest would be ok for 1500-1700cc engines. 32mm chokes, F9 tubes, 45 idles, 185 airs and random sized but soldered and redrilled mains I had previously ordered 125,and 135 mains so popped in the 125 to start with. old manifold off. Removed the (pretty new) old leaky mechanical fuel pump for good, and installed a factory engine blanking plate. Dumb photo cause it shows the old pump. installed and with new linkage mount and brake vacuum routing, both way better than before. Fuel hose routing will eventually be jiggled to look better (i had orignially wanted to have fule coming in from the firewalll side, but the double ended banjo is a bit long to have the hose make the remaining curve without a kink or rubbing. May try bending it a bit, or maybe just buy a bent one. Clearance is ok, but I cant install the bell mouth into cylinder 3, nor will the air filters i have fit - i will look into making an airbox - i have a Strada 125TC airbox with 'ABARTH' and a scorpion stamped on it that i really really want to make work some how but whatever, lets worry about that after! plugged the fuel in, then spend an age jiggled the timing around and carefully power filing the manifold, then trying to find the best combo of a limited ability to clock the dizzy (it fits in only two more or less fixed positions, maybe 5 degrees rotation?) and dizzy drive tooth alignment , and then it fired up and idled. and revved. Sounds good, and AFRs are ball park YAY! DOORTS!
    6 points
  7. Thought I would try a new look 17x8 d windows looks good to me just need white lettering on the tires
    6 points
  8. Alrighty up next.. The Mrs had registered her interest in learning to ride a bike. I was all for it! She went and got her learners licence Once she had that I set a budget and got to work finding her a bike to learn to ride on. She had done her basic handling test on a GN125 so that sort of riding style was all she knew and was keen on continuing to learn on. A mate of mine was selling his GN250 that needed a little love, which was perfect for me. He had taken it in for a WOF but it had failed on the below.. - Remount the rear shocks (Looks like it's missing a spacer or something?) - No rear reflector - Master cylinder has been welded previously "needs replacing" (I'm going to file back the weld and paint it black and see what happens) - Exhaust not secure (Missing a bolt on the engine side of it) - Fork seals need replacing (Doesn't look like they're leaking to me although they're soft.. Not sure if GN ting?) - Forks have surface rust - Throttle is sticking - Indicators need spacing, can't be seen It had already been modified a little so I can't claim all the good looks on my own personal design haha but I will show a before/after picture at the bottom of the post. This was the condition I received the bike in The priority here was to get the bike as safe as possible. She wasn't too fussed on the aesthetic side of things but I did want to have a go at polishing a turd, within reason I must also add - I don't have a garage. What I do have is a small garden shed which I have converted into a "workshop" Here are a series of pictures, because who is actually reading all of this? I am loving re writing this.. I tend to forget all of the headaches that were head during the process.. The snapped bolts, the faulty wiring, the cross threaded nuts etc.. Went for a re-check for the WOF. Failed on a few basic things (IE missing split pin etc) which I fixed took my tools to the workshop and quickly banged it out WOF - Check! Here is a little comparison photo - I reckon I did alright for a super tight budget 'build'
    5 points
  9. Oh man I haven't updated this for so long. Six months ~ time fly's and all that guff. Didnt really do anything to the Hudson over the Summer. Messed about on the old 52 Buick a bit as it has been playing up but other than its all been work or play I guess.Anyway thats my lifes catch up hour complete. lets talk old jalopies & do a quick catch up on to where the Hudson currently sits. And then with luck I will pull my finger out so to speak and start updating this more regularly.I should warn you all now this might be a tad pic heavy. Photobomb you all since I plan to follow the old saying "A picture is worth a thousand words". Oh and images are all odd sizes due to camera settings at the time. dratted updates.First off the engine was put back in and tight tuck headers thrown on.Left hand side had clearance issues so we put spacers on the engine mounts raising the engine a fraction to cure the issues. Although we have clearance at the firewall it will get cut more to tidy things up and give a tad more room.Wheels on, engine in and sitting on the ground... better jump in and visualize cruising.Radiator slotted in. Happy that we modded the thing to have twin fillers and a central top outlet. Purely for aesthetic reasons really. Just hope it will work well.Was a bit concerned about the amount of space between the rad and engine at first. but once the custom fan shroud is on and other junk is in there the gap should fill up I hope.With the engine in and headers on next steep seems logical enough - fab up the front exhaust. Was surprised how easy it went. Heap of room on each side so no issues getting to the oil filter or anything else. Still is rock solid.Welded all up ready for a quick paint and fitting. H balance pipe just at the tail of the trans. the two extra out lets poking out the sides are for the lake pipes - I like the idea of them being functional if i want. Looking at the above pic and below you will note they are situated in a low spot. this is not just cus it is just where they should be body wise but also to stop the possibility of any water pooling.Shiny sh!tFirst off i will say IDIDIT sales are top blokes. Why they never just blocked my emails is beyond me. For two years one, two or 4 times a month I would email them asking when there RHD column shift steering column would be ready. Patient bunch always emailed back. After a year or so they made up a column - it failed Aussie testing as it was to strong and didnt collapse enough. Will point out NZ cert laws are also extremely tight around steering columns with only four or so aftermarket brands being aloud. Rightly so as it is a big spear that could impale you. Anyway im waffling. To cut a long story short they have now made up a RHD column shift column- although its still not on the website. Since I had to wait so long they gave me a huge discount.Was a happy boy unboxing all teh steering crap.Initial fit up. Wasn't to thrilled on how the column sat at the dash. column drop was to low(as pictured below) so decided to order in a new one. Slightly cutting up the dash but will be worth it to get it to sit up in the stainless strip more.Whilst we waited for the shorted column drop it was decided to cut up the firewall a bit more as next we would need to figure out the lower floor mount for the column that currently dangled in the air.Three double D universals will be used. Bit tight near the headers but still will be easier than some setups.Below looks closer to the headers than it really is. has near an inch I guess of clearance.Its all nice and tight no slop or wiggle and more importantly no binding.With the front exhaust and steering done its time to move to the gaping hole in the floor and firewall.Top of the firewall all buttoned up. Will get cleaned up down the track but for now at least we have an area to bolt the trans cover to. Heap of room to fiddle about on the distributor etc.Skellington framework being made up for the trans cover. Bit by floor mount will get altered as I dont want it to be incorporated into the trans cover. Who wants the bother of removing the column to get the trans cover out? Will get it all folded up. Note the columns new position up further in the dash. Tilt column so should be ace.Been teaching myself Solidworks. Designed up the fan shroud and got it cut n folded.A couple of Spall high performance fans sit on the the shroud. I figure if they are good enough to cool NASCAR and high end sports cars then they should suck air through the four core copper rad and keep the old donk chilly. The rubber flaps are for highway speeds to let trapped hot air out. Middle rivets hold a divider in place that separates each fan. Thinking here being air follows the path of least resistance. So if only a single fan is running then air would draw through the other fans opening and not through the rad. Being in separate chambers hopefully will stop this happening. So yeah thats me pretty much! All caught up with the Hudson project. With luck will be getting back to it more now its coming into Autumn.One side note is the missus has got her self a new car. Just a small grocery getter / run about. A 1956 Morris Minor split window series II coupe. Seems to be rust free and mechanically sound little car - totally road worthy and legal. Owned by a nursing home from new till the old couple who she purchased it off got it. Garaged and loved all its life.So what do you do when you get a honest survivor in good condition? Cut it up of course!TheMoose on HAMB photoshoped it doing all we asked. chop roof, fade-away fenders, skirts & lower it. Like an old 47 buick just compacted. Once the current warrant of fitness runs out (6 months) the fun begins. Oh and old 30HP factory engine will be going as well.
    4 points
  10. Electrical issue turned out to be worn brushes in the distributor, after a solid tour of Chch looking for a replacement brush housing I ended up finding a young fella at Repco who took one look and said, you need bush set xxx, see, they can be soldered in right there. Not often you find someone at a parts store that has the right knowledge, he set me off to another branch with stock and the repair was made in 5 minutes for less than $10 Valvetrain tick investigating time...... Once again, couldn't find much, but one lashpad and rocker had a burr which I took off, unsure if it really changed much. After some more driving and a worsening sound I rechecked the gasket, turns out the new gaskets don't have reinforcement around the exhaust ports, didn't last long! Put the old one back in with a helping of sealant, so far so good. Whats really odd is the tick is most noticeable in the cabin, with the bonnet up it is there, but is drowned out by general engine noise and you'd struggle to pick it up. I'm starting to lean further towards i'm just being paranoid. The only thing I am yet to do (and probably should have done first) is check clearances when hot, that might offer a different view. Went for a hoon down Central Otago way Was a bloody good drive, midweek and late afternoon meant little to no traffic through all the fun bits, until overheating at lake Pukaki on sunset, I topped up with water and limped into Wanaka, unsure to the exact cause as it drank quite a bit of water, wasn't down on power or using fuel and the oil was all good. Turns out I had blown a heater hose and thankfully the old L series is a tough beast, a quick visit to tractor services for some tube to bypass the split hose and she was all go again. However I no longer had a heater. Calling around the usual suppliers and Nissan didn't provide any replacements, the hoses are all listed NLA so to the parts shelf I went Generic Gates hose 01-0005 covers the heater feed behind the block and a Holden commodore hose Gates 02-0912 was just enough for the return line. While in the mood, next on the list was to get the 3.5 R180 diff into place. Standard R160 top, R180 bottom. Quick check up, close enough. Out with the old In with the new. Needed a pair of sump plugs which were happily provided by pick a part and their solid collection of R180 equiped Subaru wagons. This should bring the 100k rev limit down around 3200rpm, it may be at the cost of of the line go, but the car is more of a cruiser than racer now, its worth a go. During the process I cut my hand on the wheel, not sure if its from being old or due to damage, but a new set of tyres is now on the list. Bloody happy to have found it here and not on the Lindis! Have also sorted CAD files for the badges, currently waiting on some tiny carbide end mills to feed the machine, this is so I can keep the actual badges on the shelf and not be paranoid of them falling off. Numb nuts put them in the scanner opposite which is why one is upside down!
    4 points
  11. This will be a somewhat copy/paste from another forum. I've decided to also update here because there is a plethora of knowledge of older bikes on the forum so would like to capitalize on that, also the other forum is private so if anyone is google'ing a problem that I have come across, they won't be able to see the resolution, like they would if the situations were posted on here. First off i'll post about my daily and then I will update with what i've built and/or am building currently. Current daily This was my first bike after not riding a road bike for nearly 10 years. I have ridden plenty of dirt bikes so I am by no means a complete pleb but I am also well aware of my limitations. I wanted to spend 2k or under and I also wanted it to be 2000+ (because bugger 6 month wofs). What I got was a 2008 Hyosung GT250R. Bog standard, nothing special with a butt load of maintenance paper work. So far (while I write this on the 18/6/18) I am happy with my purchase (As I re-write this on 2/4/19, I can confirm - still happy) I brought it beginning of May, done 48 thou km. It's now done appox 51 thousand kms (Now done 70,000 as of 2/4/19) Did a DIY tail tidy, added LED indicators and put on a black tinted front screen I replaced the sprocket so I am not humming at 8500 RPM at 100kmph (Most of my riding was highway riding to and from work) Now comfortably sits at 110 at 7300 ish. Happy days. In terms of other maintenance, i've done countless oil changes, oil filter, air filter cleans, new brakes all round, new tyres - Just all the usual stuff.. Obligatory image of the bike at my mates work shop Current future plans.. It's probably due another birthday soon - Clean the carbs - Oil change - Replace spark plugs etc In terms of aesthetics - Nothing.. It's just a cheap burner that I chop traffic with in the mornings Just keep riding it really.. It does the job
    3 points
  12. Sold the old van, woooo! New one was a relatively cheap upgrade, but will take me longer to pay off based on fuel cost savings. I like driving it a lot better anyways. TInted the windows, and made a window blank/insulation panels for the rear side windows beside the mattress. 5 layers including the last of the foil backed stuff on the sheet side. Got a few dog hairs in the glue >:| Fiat shelf and and new tints in the background looking cosy baby one for the shag, pile, port, hole thread Tested in the most gruelling environments as proven by the following two photos: the background of this family facebook photo from my Aunties 60th and this picture of a road sign and another silver van project TO DOs - new mattress, oh god my back - cheap water pump is shitty, need a self priming one - ventilation - this van is way warmer but also stuffier than the old one with the fancy interior, roof liner and side panels - want to find a slider window for the window behind the drivers side ideally - wheel alignment + get them to wind up the front torsion bar about 10-15mm (more on drivers side) as the tyres rub on big bumps and has quite a soft spring rate (i did this on the old van and it handled much better) - boost gauge
    3 points
  13. By the way - I have no idea what I am doing.. I am an IT nerd by day that doesn't mind getting stuck in and just figuring things out. I have mechanical experience when it comes to cars (enough to get by) but motorbikes is a whole new world for me.. I'm loving it so far tho Quick snap @ Paekakariki (where the b0yz are cheeky) Not much has changed from here really other than i've done a couple of the Ride Forever courses (highly recommend to anyone), I got my lazy ass off my Learners and passed my restricted and i've also started a new project - a 87 Honda GB400TT! The GN is still going strong several thousand km's later and so is the GT250r
    3 points
  14. There isn't that much flat land in Akaroa and for whatever reason the organisers seem to want it to be 'by invite'. Regardless, there was some nice stuff there and the weather was great. Not so the overdrive in the Healey... Anyone recognise the white Daimler by any chance...
    3 points
  15. Will be vented out the bonnet when I get the rest of the ducting done
    3 points
  16. dragged it out of storage got a wof and some rego, and a well needed clean
    3 points
  17. About 18 months ago I picked this up to make into a wood elevator. Thinking it would need a bit of a tidy up and it wold be good to go. I brought a gas set home from work and started to trim off all the shitty bits. Problem being, the only bits left were the main chain and sprocket as all the rest was shitty. Fast forward to today. Ready to lift some wood!
    3 points
  18. Well shit. Ugly asf but maiden voyage complete.
    2 points
  19. The last few days I have had elcrrical issues. Lost wipers/washers , lights and horn. Fml Matt my auto sparky came over from Redline and fixed all my issues tonight. I couldn’t be happier. He even fitted the brake light switch to the pedal box so we are all go. Compliance and WOF Thursday - along with hopefully the repair cert sign off. As I understand it, the WOF automatically fails due to the need of a Cert. Friday is cert check so I guess I have the to do list after that and have 21 days or something like that to rectify. Busy time and hope everything still works as it should for the checks - I’ve literally driven it 50metres up the road so Thursday will be it’s longest voyage in the new engine. Once this is all sorted, I will dyno it (perhaps earlier if required). Cheers
    2 points
  20. Will you fill the tray with island contraband/valuables to trade with the locals, before it ships?
    2 points
  21. I would absolutely love to keep those big tyres, but two of them are stuffed, there's no stock in NZ, and to keep them I'll have to cut off the front steps. Believe or not the steps are useful for getting in and out - so I'm going to a smaller tyre. You all have the most excellent taste though, but it's no fun being an adult for me Today's progress: Paint acquired, a new spraygun acquired (half way through the job I might add), the tray painted in POR15 silver top coat, and the chassis painted in POR15 chassis coat. I also seem to have overspray on my camera. Ha! Tomorrow's plans - try to get a few more mm of height out of the front right, hopefully underseal the cab, get the new tyres on, fit replacement grille, glovebox, cubby box. Four days to go. I got this
    2 points
  22. old fuel tank. new hotness tank
    2 points
  23. Bay...Bee.....Saab do-do-di-do-di-do.... Not much of an update, but thanks to the dynamic duo (aka @Carsnz123 and @JustHarry) Agnetha is now back safely tucked up at home. She is now up on stands at the front end and, with Haynes in hand, I have started disassembling the front suspension. Or at least I was until I ran out of tools and talent (will be on the scrounge for a breaker bar this week...and possibly some spanners). Oh, and the bonnet and front grill are now elsewhere to facilitate access to the donkey. If any one is interested, I have for sale some of the bits I no longer have a need for: Theres a suspicious amount of road gravel in this car....
    2 points
  24. The car is also running the full return fuel pickup now too Zinc plating was only $5
    2 points
  25. MUCH more success today! shortened up the brake pushrod and made some changes to how its retained. to further shorten up its length inside the master cylinder. bled all four wheels and it just seemed to go right today. pedal felt great. just how id hoped it would with the particular valving id choosen. the car doesn't have a booster due to space issues. but i didn't want a rock hard pedal like a race car. the valving i chose gave more mechanical advantage over the slave cylinders at the "cost" of longer and a bit spongier pedal throw. which is also exactly what i wanted. the car brakes just as good if not better than the original boosted brakes with incredible control over the brake pressure. you can lock the rear brakes up with moderate pressure, which isnt actually a good thing, however the fuel tank is dead empty and i limped back to the garage ending up on 19psi of fuel pressure, so itll probably stop doing that with a bit of weight, otherwise a simple 2 port bias valve will sort it right out! it feels like the fronts would lock up if you really stood on it harder than you probably ever would which is about right. very very happy as this has been one extremely long headache and im over the moon to have it finally working how i wanted it.
    2 points
  26. Just tidying up all the loose ends. Added aditional brackets to the new rear soft brake hoses so that they don’t touch the diff. Venting the gas tank. Wrapping wiring. Bonnet on My rear brake diff hard line might need another flaring as I have a slight leak at one junction.
    2 points
  27. I came across a couple of full lengths of used 1 1/2 water pipe in the course of my working week. Old mate and I had been discussing ways to keep our fire wood pile dry. This is what we came up with today. It's 4m wide, 2m high, and 4.9m long. We'll cover it in used sheets of 5.1m roofing iron salvaged from a burnt shed. Total cost so far is about 20 arc rods and a cut off disc.
    2 points
  28. Not fitted the boot gauge yet, but ive made and fitted curtains, insulated and boarded the floor, and made the bed. Guy I bought the van off gave me a coupe of sheet of ply that used to be in the back and a few more offcuts as well, as well as the ply i took off interior ladder rack thing I also had some 32mm ply offcuts from an art week project i helped me ol' mate with, and most of the soft materials (curtains and insulation and foam, mattress) i already had, so this has been built for 'free' so far but i did have to buy more screws. Nice to use some hoarded shit up and make some room. Blank canvas with so much room for activities. Internal roof racks are from the PO - Guy had it set up for carrying a ladder Also covered over the brown chip board lining where it would be seen with check vinyl. Underfloor insulation - not sure how much difference this will make but cant hurt. 6x9s in too, same position as old van These 5mm odd sized MDF sheets were $5 at M10. Should be enough to stop my patella twisting off in one of the floor channels and stop the insulation rpping as well as providing some sound deadening and insulation too. Especially with a layer of fatigue foam on top, then the factory vinyl floor and some more foam under the last of the check vinyl. Much cosier too. Our last vans had house carpet on the rear floors, i think this will be a bit easier to keep clean and no less warm, especially with the fancy head liner, and we can always throw down a rug, or put in some underlay Made the bed, design was kinda dictated by the wood i had, but it tuned out really good. The sides are fixed, (but with only 4 screws per side) and very solid being made from 22mm ply, and the middle (17mm ply + 32mmply x 70mm cross members) is in two halves, So, they can be rotated and sat on the floor to do van stuff, OR put in place to make the bed platform and do caravan stuff. These are fixed to the fixed sides with 4 screws in the middle seam to stop them levering out when i sit on the end of the bed - the whole thing stiffens up the whole van like a cross brace And im pooped, so test lie down completed successfully! Now to the sink. And boost gauge.
    2 points
  29. Legend, saved it this time haha.
    1 point
  30. Saved it to my dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/s/6irwodjjucn65j0/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V3_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf?dl=0
    1 point
  31. so list nbc on trademe and sold yesterday (unfortunately only one bid but meh), being collected this weekend so will have some room for the latest purchase so first one is a cb125t with comstars missing/cut up wiring apparently needs coils to run... but has twin carbs second is a cm125t with wire wheels appears to be all there but wouldnt start for previous owner (nothing happened when key turned yet batterys charged so will have to get out the meter) this ones single carb looking on line they seem to be all about the same power (something to do with a 125cc & power limit for this kind of bike?) anyone have any knowledge on these, which ones best motor wise/anyone need parts
    1 point
  32. I might make this now I live down here
    1 point
  33. Recently I've been developing the ignition system for this car. Ever since I put a brand new starter motor in, I was experiencing interference with the ignition system during cranking so I decided to finish building up the EFI distributor that started life in a 7K-E. The 7K-E distributor differs from a 4K distributor in that it has no advance mechanisms, is about 10 mm longer, has a bigger cap diameter and different rotor. Usually a 7K-E distributor cap is of the type that you clip the leads onto instead of pushing them on. I found a 22R distributor cap at repco that pretty much fits onto the 7K-E distributor, only needing the mounting holes drilled out slightly. This allowed me to use the original push on 4K leads. I also had to make up a spacer plate to put between the distributor and the engine block, this was relatively simple to just make out of some steel. The 7K-E distributor uses the same rotor as a 4A-FE and I'd assume 22R. This rotor worked perfectly with the cap. Having only 4 points for the VR pickup, the distributor wasn't exactly suited to a megasquirt based EFI system. Toyota used a system known as VAST, which basically used the distributor for base timing and would fire a spark when a signal came from the distributor unless the ECU overrides the module. I had no VAST module, so this setup wasn't exactly ideal as the megasquirt would just have to guess at the base timing (10 deg BTDC) based on the average speed of the engine. If using a basic 4 point distributor trigger setup you need to phase the distributor so the trigger comes in earlier than the most advanced timing you are going to use (ie 50 deg BTDC). Anyway, I did try to use the distributor with the factory 4 point setup (this was before I changed to the new starter), but I had problems with getting the engine to start. If the engine started, it worked somewhat well but the timing as no very precise. It was pretty clear that more data points (teeth) were needed. After that failed attempt I changed back to fuel only EFI and just kept using the car. Then the original starter motor stopped, the solenoid contacts were a bit burnt. I rebuilt the solenoid but I didn't trust it to work again so I bought a new aftermarket starter. The new starter was interfering with the ignition during cranking, causing tach spikes. The starter would also crank at a randomly selected speed every time I turned the key. This was making it somewhat annoying to start the car as it wouldn't always start on the first try. So I decided to go back to ECU controlled ignition and see if I could get it to work properly. I was considering using the flywheel of the engine as a VR trigger wheel, but I think they have 105 teeth, which isn't divisible by 4 or 2 so it wouldn't have worked with the megasquirt. My Barry lathe came complete with a broken quick change gearbox, and it just so happened to have a 20 tooth gear with an outside diameter of 35 mm - perfect for the distributor. I clocked up the distributor shaft in the lathe and turned the toothed portion down to 19 mm so the gear would fit over it. I welded the gear on, removed some of the thickness and knocked a tooth off to make it a 20-1 wheel. This first attempt actually worked quite well, the car ran great and the timing was accurate but I still had issues getting sync while cranking. I figured it was due to the small diameter of 35 mm not giving enough tip velocity at cranking speed to get a good signal from the VR pickup and decided to redesign the system. I used this setup on the dyno, and tuned in a good ignition map. The next attempt was to make a trigger wheel that went over and around the VR sensor, almost doubling the diameter of the wheel (so almost double the signal). The VR sensor needed to be modified slightly to sense from the outside. This modification consisted of welding a bit of gauge plate to the existing sensor so it would stick out more and removing some material from the VR sensor housing. I epoxied the sensor together after, to reduce any risks of bits falling out over time. I made a 30-1 wheel for this, but as soon as I put the details into TunerStudio, the ECU said "no". I somehow missed the fact that 30 isn't divisible by 4 and the ECU wasn't having a bar of it. The hole in the wheel is mainly to allow for screw driver access for assembling/disassembling the distributor, but it should also help (or make worse) the balancing from the missing tooth. In a bit of a huff, I ripped it all out and went back to fuel only mode for a few days before I built up the motivation to cut all of the pretty teeth off the wheel and try again. I used my Barry lathe to remove all of the teeth and then used a mill with a DRO to put 23 holes on a 61 mm PCD (set to 24 equispaced holes). These holes were 2.4 mm. I then cut up a 2.4 mm diameter mild steel TIG rod to use as teeth and welded them all in. After making the wheel, it was a simple case of heating it up, slipping it over the distributor shaft and hoping it would stay put - it did! Then I faced off the welded surface and reassembled the distributor. At this point, the new starter motor started to smoke and quite often not even start turning. I put the original starter back in the car and it worked perfectly (turning twice as fast with half the power). The car started up pretty much first try. After adjusting the distributor phasing in TunerStudio it now works perfectly and starts first time, every time. Looking back, the 20-1 setup probably would have worked fine using the original starter motor but this new wheel should be slightly more robust to signal noise. The car just runs generally slightly better all around. It now uses about 15% less fuel at idle, about 3.5 L/100 km at 50 km/h and 5 L/100 km at 85 km/h so I can't really complain. I also bodged up a cover for the J121 igniter module, so it looks a little more factory. Hopefully I will get around to making it a little more permanent one day but this will probably last 20 years. So basically I achieved my goal of having an OEM looking ignition setup that uses the ECU to control the timing.
    1 point
  34. From the very beginning my Bosch 044 pump suffered from cavitation. Sounds like glass beads getting smashed up inside the pump. Well when the fuel pressure fell over on the dyno and it was time to go twin pumps, I emailed GRP4, the tank manufacturer and asked them if the -8AN outlet would flow enough to support two pumps. He was good enough to be honest with me and explain the the pick up pipe inside the tank has a kink in it and would reduce flow. I had no idea it would be this bad! Needless to say this was causing massive flow issues and is a testament to the durability of the mighty Bosch 044 pump. After careful planning and acquiring all the parts to complete the job, I took the tank to Drew at ARE Cooling in Brendale where he cut side of tank open, welded on a -12AN outlet and 1" pick up pipe. -4AN fittings where the fuel sight gauge used to be and tidied up the welds where my fuel sender goes in. The car is back running and the pump is actually QUIET! I will get the second one wired up soon, the ECU will switch it based on manifold pressure, as a guess it will come on around 18psi.
    1 point
  35. And now thanks to the awesome boys at Vinny Fab. I now have an exhaust. Better pictures to come
    1 point
  36. What's the car and are they body adjustable? The correct way to get more droop is to add keeper/helper springs to your setup. It's easy to do, and if your coilovers are body adjustable there should be plenty of adjustment (body adjustment changes the total length of the shock). Here's the process I would follow: Remove springs and run suspension through its whole sweep with the wheel and tyre on. Take note of how much clearance you have at full compression (if any). You should aim to have the tyre as close to the wheel arch as possible at full compression for optimal handling. Make sure there's enough clearance for the bump stop to compress a little for big bumps (10mm minimum gap between tyre and inner guard). Use the shock body adjustment to set this height. Jack the car up and see how far it droops. Measure the distance between the centre of the hub and the wheel arch at both ends of the sweep to give yourself an idea of total available droop travel. Install your main spring (no keeper) and drop the car on the ground. Set your desired ride height for cert using the spring perches. The spring will probably be un-captive after this. Once ride height is set, jack up the car again and see how far the spring is from being captive. This will give you an idea of how long your keepers need to be. Install your keepers with spring locaters between the keeper and main spring You will need to drop the spring perch to account for the compressed length of the keeper plus the thickness of the locater to get the same ride height ??? Profit If you don't have enough perch adjustment, you might need a shorter main spring. Hope that helps.
    1 point
  37. I had a play with the stm32f429 disco a few years back. Took quite a while to get the configs setup correctly as stm cube was quite buggy, especially when you're using a lot of other peripherals. Maybe it's better now? They provide a graphics library called stemwin which is pretty handy for building a generic GUI.
    1 point
  38. So I got the car out to the drags last week and was stoked to run a 12.4. The mph is the same as previous outings which is no surprise with hp being the same. But the better spool and take offs gained me 3 tenths of a second. Still pretty lazy 0-60ft so I'm thinking of getting some M&H 22" 8" 13" drag slicks and having a decent go after the next and final tune. I also ran in the Forced Ford Forum cruise last weekend at Lakeside All Aussie Day. Here's a link to a youtube vid from the guys in 51OBA. Enjoy
    1 point
  39. I had a 2 litre auto one for work for a while. that was a hungus turd Replaced it with a BA wagon and everyone was all HOMG FALCON GUZZLER USE ALL THE FUELS Falcon used less fuel due to not WOT all day just to get anywhere. Also weirdly the van used to send me to sleep quite often. Have not ever had it happen since. TLDR GLWS
    1 point
  40. Ive been using this as a daily for the last few months and being auto petrol plus all the junk on it Im getting a bit over satiating its thirst for the dino juice. I needed a more economical solution, and after being on my watch list for a month i noticed that this van was just down the road, so went and had a look. Less kms, less $ to run (i made a spreadsheet), more displacement, more gears, more clutch pedals, more airbags, more diesel, MOAR TURBOS!!! So of course i bought it, gonna chop up the silver one for a manual diesel + T conversion on the white one... Lol such minty. This is the cleanest one yet, v4.0 2006 E25.2 Caravan, ZD30DDTi, Manual. Love the boost. And gears. And diesel clatter. Roll of Honour of previous Holiday Homys: V1.0 1996 E24 Homy TD27, Manual, BHG V2.0 1998 E24 Caravan TD27, Manual, Rust v3.0 2002 E25.1 Caravan, KA24DE, Auto, FOR SALE Bought a boost gauge off @ul9601 before i even collected it HOT Double Van Action Now with most of the good bits swapped over, Looking forwards to fitting this one out. I wish the chrome west coast style mirrors on the old one fitted , but the nose cone is just different enough that they dont quite swap straight over. May make the effort as the new ones fold at high speed and have less visibility. Old one is for sale here: https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1954458950 YOU BUY NOW!! ASK ABOUT YOUR OS SPECIAL DISCOUNT!!!
    1 point
  41. Yeah sorry @yoeddynz not much has been happening with this lately, been pouring all my money into this stupid v3000 and trying to finally get the green l300 legal. So yeah nothing to report sorry guys! It lives at home now though. Have a picture.
    1 point
  42. Took my mate for a spin just then and the exhaust flange ripped off a catseye on the road hahaha. Thats low Looks like the exhaust needs lifting up a tad innit FML
    1 point
  43. You can't avoid working on it if it's at your front door staring you in the face.
    1 point
  44. Lols I could see curious looks in the rear view mirror of a cop I was following when taking the TS to work one morning. He changed lanes and slowed down a bit thought here we go so passed him gave him a thumbs up, must of seen my rego tag and number plate then got a thumbs up back and nanged on my merry way
    1 point
  45. 1 point
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