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so with some help from a cam and a dave it goes back in the hole, and all bolts up right? well sort of does bolt up. after shortening driveshaft by 95mm but its doesn't fit until you hit the things with hammers and cut and weld this and that more cad design implementations then with the winds of good luck it may be a roadworthy car again one day soon

man so much excitement going on right now!!!! this is the trip i plan on achieving on the vespa over the next 5 days

Jack pot. I hit up mum to see if I was aloud my fathers pins from his years of riding and collecting. Pretty over the moon to be able to wearing these from now on.

Y’all better watch out, the Speedcocks are coming!

Replace ladies in bikini with sweaty dudes replace bull with sweaty dude replace ring with sweaty dude

Cheap belt came with instructions to ride at 30 or less for 10k. Yeah that didn't happen. Went for a quick ride and it went well until I was close to the fuel station and it run out. I really need to remember to fuel up before leaving. @piazzanoobcame to loan a hand and give moral support. We decided the mortar tin was too big. The shopping trolley donated some of its basket. The basket needed some clearancing for the exhaust. Took it for a longer pest and no sadness. Tomorrow I'll take it for a longer ride and see how it goes. Even the statue is excited about it Oh and a massive thanks to @64valiant for the seat. I'm Fucking stocked with how it turned out

Got this thing a wof now so its one step closer to being useable. Got more rust fixed and put some proper size tyres onto the back. Think it needs the carb looked into as she doesn't run the best when cold. Good old Mitsi auto chokes. Anyways whats an update without pictures. Just after WOF on the way back home and after some more paint and some proper tyres to replace the rubber bands.

Bought a ms65 Ami assemble crown. Minimal rust. Last wof 2001. Sweet dark brown interior

this is going to be me wednesday night

Speedo cabletied on and army men affixed. Must mean Its eastcape ready. I've done about 20km so far so it must be ready. I'll take it to work tomorrow and get a rough idea of fuel usage/see what fails. I popped into kmart to try and get a front basket but had no luck. The warehouse had nothing basket wise but delivered on a horn and tassles

Dibs your sticker. Thanks m8

New carb is dialled, goes well. Let’s do this https://imgur.com/gallery/oFiq2Pi

because old man pants decided to take out the on/off 6 puck solid centre 200mm clutch and 6kg flywheel and swap to a OEM cast iron flywheel, but modified to take an early integrale 8v 230mm push type clutch and pressure plate I found on amazon for a bargain after extensive part number googling but nothing too simple of course. OEM flywheel from fiat 131 is for a 215mm clutch so the friction face is too small, and all the dowels and bolt holes are in the wrong spots by just a little bit. so had to machine it down to flat on big lathe at work, then machine a step with 230mm diameter, then setup in the mill and drill and tap for dowels and bolts offset to the original clutch ones, and make some new dowels to suit.

fuck pin it to win it m8. mumma didnt raise no pussy. yeah ill go see whayt kmart has in the inflatable section. 40 dudes on a air mattress is going to be a laugh

Long overdue update. Essentially I've just been driving this on sunny days. It's great, it's been very well behaved so far, and I love it. Plans over winter include a head-off tickle up with new valve stem seals, a thinner 0.8mm TRD metal head gasket, and a new VVT pulley (the old one is worn and rattles like hell). Chuffed really.

Phew. Well that bonnet took a while. In between other jobs I whittled away at the rot on the bonnet. Some awkward shapes going on at the front. I did my best, without getting too carried away, at rebuilding the shape correctly in steel. It will have filler on top however I wanted to avoid having to use filler to get gaps between the bonnet and the car correct. I don't really like the idea of filler on edges that can get knocked. Not really a lot to explain in the process of rot removal on this. I think the photos do a better job. You'll see I started the main repair by fabricating a new front edge and welding it in stages so checking it lined up with the body and the gap remained correct. It was so rotten that I sort of guessed the gap just tried to make it look 'correct'... The front repairs puled up in welding slightly- enough that I wasnt happy with gap. Had to slice open and stretch it bac down. Lucky an easy rscue.. Then onto the underside repairs.. That's probably enough photos of a bonnet for you all. Next job is to modify the front panel and inside the frunk to accept a radiator.

fully detailed CAD model of new sump baffling using davescience software as an upgrade to the low weight low drag baffling of the original fiat design and boogered up

i hope this is a accurate photo of ford crossing

Black and round? I'll have to check Yes it's good to finally have it rideable. It's heaps smaller than the dios so will be interesting on the Cape run Acceleration is pretty good feels quicker than gn g ah, no idea on top speed as the speedo is sitting on the garage floor still. I'll do a GPS run and find out.

Spent Saturday morning throwing a thick coat of new bog down on it. Then last night did an hour or so sanding it back with a 40 grit on the orbital sander to get a good rough shape in. Am happy with how it's working so far. Will need a few layers before its perfect. Plan is to have the bog and fibre glass done by end of November... then December to re assemble

I just hope the weather is remotely like today cause it's stunning

If only Honda made a bike that eats up these kind of conditions. #ct110 #jinxedit #hashtag The road is sweet though. No troubles m8

Just over inflate the wheels and boost over the water mate. Aqua Chaly.

Lol if its raining up there mud will be the least of your worries. Getting the chally thru the ford will be more of a problem

which brings me to introduce the final piece of art, "Rom3yz zhit xox":

I AM FIZZING FOR THIS

Tacked in some patches deleting factory exhaust mounts and stuff. laid into the chassis rails with a dent puller to make them nice and crisp again. Some bits I cut out and flattened instead.. They weren’t horrendous but I want them straight. And I can pump rust kill into the rails

So I learnt how to do epic wheelies on this thing. Basically go half throttle to just touch on powerband...back off...hit it hard again...and fuck yeah! Did this all day long until...fail!!! Yip, no rear brake means no way of saving it once you go too far. Managed to fuck myself and the goped up pretty well. The brake caliper = total right-off, buy another one. Exhaust = do it all again...fucked! Front brake disc = badly buckled and miss shaped. So I bent the disc roughly into shape...then did this to get it pretty good: Finished it by mounting wheel back on and then rotating it inside the new brake caliper and taping it over little by little until no rubbing sound occurred within a nice tight gap. Mint as bro!

Do any of you guys want me to bring your OS sticker sheets to East Cape, instead of posting them?

Have done heaps more testing firstly found the airbox itself is a restriction. gains about 5kw and runs a bit more boost with air box removed. its either the way the air enters, or not enough volume around air filter Rest of these runs are with airbox on.. Thought it would be a good idea to swap the head that came off starlet onto this. which has more port work. seems i had done more work on the head that come off the truck than i thought. Red line best run on original head. Blue first run on starlet head. Green cam timing adjusted on starlet head. bit of a fail/waste of my life, but managed to get it close to what it was. can see that this head seems to hang on a bit longer, but is a touch worse everywhere else. would rather keep as much midrange as possible Then went full retard. had some 193b (280 ish 9mm ish) kelford cams hanging around. which are mild ish NA cams. not meant for turbo stuff. Green: best from above on starlet head. Blue: 193b cams with cam timing roughly adjusted to best possible compromise. 220kw on only 12psi is pretty sweet, but too much midrange loss. Red: I almost didn't try this, because i thought it wouldn't work: 193b inlet cam. Stock exhaust cam. matched the stock cams and 20kw more peak! Only issue is, its junk until about 2000rpm and wont idle at all under 1200rpm. not ideal in a 4wd. 99% sure its the inlet manifold, which was spose to be thrown in the bin before i even built this truck, due to vibration and cracking issues TL;DR / too much @Roman Dave Science. First dyno run vs last :

@johnnyfive yea I didn't even think but probably will go north side of the lake. A hell of a lot cooler ride. (we drive it to lake Rotoiti) I havnt really planned fuel stops as such I got a range of about 160kms easy so will just go with the flow I think. Just need to double check with @Zeubin on Thursday morning if there is a preference with the route.

Basket sorted and packrack mounted.

I think this sums up the Speedcocks nicely.

Sure! We’ve got a few.

Swap ya some qcr stickers for some speedcocks ?

The only gang on the cape this weekend:

Krikey dick, that with a 140?

Man so many buttplugs coming my way

yeah powerglide coolant pump and vent filter

You mean these?

some bits were still ok compared some sumps while I was there, left argenta, right 131 commodore LS1

Throw him in the deep end and he’ll learn fast

Full disclosure I am literally incapable of swimming, so I will be far away from any water sports bar crossing the ford.

Bit more work done. Lower skin is complete, got to use a new set of toys The lower part of the frame also needed a new section, made this with my folder and via clamping it to my bench with some RHS and folding it over. The corner of this boot has been given a bit of a shunt and was full of bog, was able to pull it out a bit so it wasnt too bad, kind of difficult as you cant get to the back of the panel... welded up those extra holes too The removable panels are now done, have a bit of work to do on the body including a patch for the tunnel. I see a couple of other patches in this area from previous work - assume to be part of mating a honda drivetrain (which is what this was previously set up as, not sure how much more work will be needed to return it back to std.

I started thinking months ago about the diff in the car and whether or not it'd be able to stand up to the extra power. I'd read in many places that they're good to around 200 horsepower if you are gentle on them. However, I plan to have a little over 200 and I have very little intention at all on being gentle on it. So I started looking at different options for an upgrade. I looked down the Hilux route for a while but I was struggling to find one. I then read up on the BW78 as found in @Rhubarb77's turbo pinto Mk2. Coming standard in Falcons and Commo's for decades and being a popular swap over the ditch means that there's heaps of information available on them, as well as aftermarket LSDs options, and so on. So I went down the road to the Zebra and pulled a housing out of an AU station wagon. This was the best option, other than a ute, because it had the least useless brackets and linkages for me to cut off as compared to the four-link bars and Watt's links on the sedans. I also pulled a center section out of an AU XR6 for the LSD and 3.45 ratio. That's much better than the 3.23 that was in the station wagon diff and will put me right about 2500 rpm at 100kph. All up I think it cost somewhere on the thin edge of $200. I also found a set of axles from an Aussie assembled R31 Skyline. They have the same splines and bearings but are four stud and shorter than the Falcon axles so better for shortening. Both the Falcon and the Skylines have different length axles side for side to put the input flange of the diff in the center of the car. This is another thing that makes it easy to shorten them. By putting the short Skyline axle on the longer side of the Falcon housing and shortening it to fit, then shortening the long Skyline axle by 125mm and the housing by the same, I could get away with only modifying one axle to save time and more importantly money. I ended up with something like this: I got it done by Lee at Diffs R Us. He also tightened the LSD up to the best a standard cone type can possibly be while he was there. I was over the moon with the result and would recommend him to anyone. This is a comparison shot to show the difference between the Escort and Skyline axles: I shouldn't have to worry about snapping one of these puppies. Especially considering the fact that I'll be lucky to get a maximum of a 205 profile tire under the back. Next thing I wanted to sort out was the rear brakes. While we were in the wreckers to up the diff, we noticed a Mk2 Mondeo. It had 4x108 stud pattern, vented rear disks, sliding single pot calipers, cable handbrake, and it all fit under 13 inch rims. They looked perfect. So $60ish later I got them home and started working on making them fit. The first thing I found was the central hole in the disk was too small to fit over the spigot on the end of the axles. Initially, I considered embiggening the disk to fit the axle. Then I realised the disk would be a consumable part, albeit very rarely needing to be replaced. With that in mind, I opted to spin the spigot on the axle down to keep the consumable parts as standard as possible to save headaches down the road. With that done and the disk fitting snugly, I started figuring out a caliper mount design. It came down to something I have to give full credit to the old man for. The one issue with the Mondeo caliper is the mounting bosses are well offset from the actual disk itself. This made them difficult to pick up effectively with a bracket. So we thought outside the box. It's made up of two plates. One that picks up the axle retaining plate bolts, just as the standard Falcon caliper mount did. Then a series of spigotted spacers support another plate which the caliper then bolts too. The cardboard above represents each plate and the spacers are currently imaginary. I ran the design past the certifier and he said he was more than happy with it so it was full steam ahead. I cut the plates out of 6mm steel with the gas then started putting holes where there needed to be less steel. I turned up a wooden spigot to hold each plate true to each other while I drilled them to absolutely ensure the holes would match. Next, some temporary wooden spacers were made to prove the concept. That was where I ran into a wall. The next job is to make the spacers for real. To do that I need the axles in place with bearings to confirm the disk location. The problem is, I don't have the axles at the moment. Even though the axles are four stud, they are 4x114.3 rather than the 4x108 that I need for the Escort wheels. To remedy that, I welded up the flanges (legal in New Zealand I was glad to find) and sent them away to get restudded. I made sure I preheated each axle and welded them up as hot as the poor little welder would suffer, before leaving them in the gloven to slowly cool off again and prevent any unwanted hardening. When I refaced each axle, the welds weren't much different in hardness than the rest of the axle so I was more than happy with that. So now, as I mentioned, I'm waiting on the axles before I finalise the brake mounts. Still plenty to do though...

Went for a good hard hoon out to Kawhia today. The bike ran well the whole way and was humming at 80kph the whole way home on the flat - I think the cool air was helping a lot! We got a bit wet at the end of the day, but apart from that it was an flawless afternoon's riding. Pics stolen from @64valiant. @Zeubin's C1 "Mothership" is a lol to ride along with.

Went a bit loopy and bought THREE 1gge and obligatory trust headers. Although the current single cam has a fresh cambelt and waterpump its has horrendously loud lifters and paired with the slipping auto trans makes for pretty slow going. First engine is off to the reconditioners to get bearings and gaskets and clean 30years of grease from it then it will be paired with a w55 I grabbed to swap all in one go. Being facelift it has a smaller t series 6.7" IRS rear diff but I purchased an entire f series 7.5" subframe so that will go in at some point with a lsd of some variety too!

Been a busy two weeks of knick knacking and paddy whacking really. Had huge progress in the dismantling task, and now have it stripped back to a water blasted rolling body. This weekend I de-loomed it with various difficulties due to Japanese nimble fingers and Mexican wiring swept under holes, while Stephen dropped the fuel tank out which had 1 & 1/2 buckets worth of petrol still in… no auckland tax on that. The front windscreen didn't come out easy however as the rubber was baked more than a christmas pavlova made after a few breakfast rumballs. But with two rolls of $2 tape as support and bare fingers for guidance, we yanked the screen free and the began the painful process of smashing each little piece from the surrounding areas. Even dropped the engine out the bottom to check over if it's worth saving, and the exhaust which is definitely not worth saving. And finally on the progress, I spent a day last week softly caressing the old vinyl rear seats that crack into pieces in your fingers unless you find a 24 year old bottle of Johnsons baby oil at the back of a bathroom cabinet, and massage that into the fragile material until it's overwhelming in smell. Then I spent the remainder cleaning up plastics with thanks to rivalrx CRC suggestion, AKA the new best thing after Autosol. Note grubby handles. Got new door cards from Australia - $140 free shipping bloody impressed and awesome business card to match. Bonus items found hidden this week were a knife down the wheel arch in boot, an Escort window winder, and a monopoly house under the fuel tank. Kind regards, rotorhoe