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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/20/18 in all areas

  1. Update time, took this to hanmer at the begining of the month. all was going well until on the way back... pulled off the road to adjust one of the kids seatbelts. went to pull away and had no gear selection. turns out the box was jammed in 5th and had snapped a selector fork.... fuck... managed to drive it back from just outside of Hanmer to Christchurch in 5th, there were a few dicey moments like the big hill out of waikari and the turn back onto sh1 but made it back. fast forward to the weekend just gone and its fix it time, man i need a hoist for myself. it made the job a hundred times easier. because of the lack of good gearboxes in stock we converted the car from short case r30 gearbox to long case box out of a 280zx. that did unfortunately mean loosing the bench seat thanks to @JustHarry the total GC for sorting the use of the hoist helping to get her done
    12 points
  2. hooooly shit. Just read through all 28 pages of this trip. I'm keen to do it on the C1 now that it's legal if people are still good to sign on at this late-ish stage? @64vauxhall I'm down to tag along on your extra journey just lemme know which days I need to take off work. Looking to find/make some roofracks for it or just use tie downs.
    8 points
  3. Decided it was a good time to pull the front end off and pull the motor out to clean up the bay and motor since it was a bit shabby looking.
    8 points
  4. So I bought this wagon off ol mate Aaron over a year ago got it shipped up here and drove it around all last summer to Leadfoot festival etc.
    8 points
  5. Here's what's inside a Jag electric mirror: I opened it because the mirror glass shook around too much to see anything while driving. On the left of the photo is the glass backing plate (complete with heating element because England), and on the right are the two motors. The 'fixed' central ball-and-socket pivot mount with the yellow arrow had in/out play for some reason. I put a washer down its socket hole to pack it out and take up the slack, and it's improved. Another even more important thing I needed to fix was the radio aerial. The original motorised one had failed (big surprise) and the previous owner had replaced it with a manual one. This made me die a little bit inside, especially as the aerial is out on the rear wing. One does not feel very wealthy pulling over and getting out of one's car to go and extend the aerial in view of passing commoners. I bought a new electric aerial (universal, not Lucas) and fitted it with much excitement. Antenna goes up, antenna goes down. Antenna goes up, antenna goes down. I feel like a yuppie. Antenna goes up.. ..and thankfully stops short of my very low garage door. Just need to find an adapter for the annoying coaxial connector on the Jaguar cable back to the head unit. Tomorrow the Jag is going away for a while to get those inboard rear brakes and their awful grinding noises sorted out. Expect some horror stories, but also expect some form of exhaust modifications to be done at the same time.
    7 points
  6. Canadian club plz. Blue diesel will cause removal of engine and a worn out one installed instead
    6 points
  7. Added a few other things into the wagon New carpets, tig welded up an over flow bottle out of stainless, seats are at midnight upholstery currently, and new moon glitter bomb wheel.
    5 points
  8. Holy lols, thats quite a thing. Yeah no trouble, should have a proper entry form for everyone shortly, I'm holding things up need to pull finger etc. But yeah, do it.
    4 points
  9. Been a while since last update. Been getting a bit carried away with my datsun of late. Baffled sump all made up with water cooled copper line inside Going to be putting engine back together this week
    4 points
  10. So I said it should be sweet. Was I fuckin right or what?! I started by making each face of the new wing in separate pieces of steel and tacking them together. There was a time when I would have tried to fold it all out of one piece but it was much easier to do it this way. With it all tacked up, I snapped it off the pedal box and welded it fully. Then tacked it up again and welded it to the box properly. Then I marked and drilled the appropriate holes to mount up the master. The bottom bolt is a bit of a pig to get in and out because it ended up right on the wall of the original pedal box. Eventually, I think I'll swap it for the studs that the master originally had but shorten them a little and run a nut on the inside of the pedal box. Should make the whole situation a lot easier to mount. Finally, here is the pedal at clutch fully out, And fully in. Next I knocked together this little fella, And filled up the old clutch cable connection point. Their powers combined they make this: A neat little adjustable pedal stop with a rubber button from the original Mazda pedal. Much better than putting a nut and bolt through the floor like I've seen suggested on some pages online. With that, the pedal box modifications are finished (at least in the clutch department anyway). Now I just have to get on to mounting it. To start, I ground off the return on the doubler plate and clutch cable conduit where it would foul the new wing. Then I made an extension for the doubler plate and welded it on. Finally, I had to drill and cut the holes to allow the master cylinder to penetrate the firewall. It just so happened that the center of the main hole was inside the clutch conduit hole so a hole saw would have made a terrible mess wandering around everywhere trying to cut the hole. Instead, I bolted up the pedal box and used it as a template to make the two smaller bolt holes. Then I made a temporary support for the hole saw and bolted it to the bulkhead with the new holes. Which let me cut it out from the other side. I might weld up the oval parts of the original penetration but it works fine as it is for now. As tempted as I was to bolt the pedal box and master cylinder straight up, I figured I'd get a little more fab done in the area while I was here. So I made up this little guy, And tacked it in place on the firewall. I also threw the pedal box and master on while I was there, Before mounting this sweet piece of kit. It's a leftover from my old man's roadster when he mistakenly ordered the wrong kit for his braking system. I reckon it fits really nicely in there and I'll only need a short 90-degree elbow to connect it up. The whole thing came out looking kick ass and I'm really happy with the result. It's going to be fantastic when it's finished and running. I'm just leaving the mounting pedestal tacked on there for now until I find a brake master cylinder that will work in case I need to shift it to make it fit. That leads me to a request for help. What brake master cylinder should I use? Bearing in mind I plan to use princess four-piston calipers on the front and I'm not sure exactly what on the rear yet. I am going to use the R31 skyline diff that I have but I'm not sure what brakes to use on it. I don't have any for it yet and I'm looking at probable disks of some sort but I'm not sure which and I'm open to suggestions. I'm looking at a Datsun B310 master right now because it's the same bore as a standard Mk2 Escort master but it has the under and over mounting holes. I'll have to run a remote booster but that won't be an issue. My only concern is whether or not it would be compatible with disk brakes in the rear due to its internal residual pressure valve. I'm open to suggestions if you have any. Please let me know here:
    4 points
  11. Getting more confident at this metal foldy bendy stuff.. Centre console bracket was missing from this car so i copied the one from my other celica. Carpet all installed Back seat area all cleaned/painted Wheel arch vinyl was tired so i resprayed it And finally stopped procrastination and primed the drivers side roof
    4 points
  12. Have owned this over a year now I should probs let everyone see what I've been up to. Will start adding to this tonight stay tuned
    3 points
  13. Currently fixing the rust in the bonnet ready for paint.
    3 points
  14. So it’s probably about time I put an update on this. Since I last posted a lot has changed. I bought a house and got engaged! New shed is grouse and been actually working on the car and other people’s car quite a lot. Namely supercharging a k24 Honda engine. Damn it goes good. Progress report; rear diffuser side plates folded and fitted. Aim here is to empty the air from the rear tyre wells cleanly and just look cool and be functional-ish Lots of room for activities (got to get a bloody exhaust out here somehow too - but that’s a problem for another day) Fuel cell mounting is now complete also. Maybe over engineered it a little but it’s not going anywhere in a crash most importantly. Mounted straps to stainless tubing front and rear with bosses welded in. Was the strongest/lightest combo I could think of doing. Pretty glad this job is done it was a pain in the ass Haven’t finished off the plumbing for the top end of the fuel cell yet. Maybe it should be next on the list?
    3 points
  15. Keen on a couple trees. And yeah our crew is chillin at the same motel as most others on friday night. Was gonna camp out somewhere but we wouldve been on the road for a few days at that point so a shower and a spot tp charge the phones will be ideal. Plus keen as to wear our Smash Palace tshirts from down here at the Smash Palace in gizzy
    3 points
  16. Finally got a bit of paint on it, started on the roof today. Striping/lace/flake to follow in the week when I get the chance. Defo not going to Baja it now, not only because I'm about to crack into the HiLux but also my stepson is about to start driving and stock beetles are about the cheapest thing to insure when you're 17. Sticking with the 1200 too, but still gonna drop the front. And maybe put the 8" rims on the back. Pics
    3 points
  17. Broom broom, took it for a Hoon.
    3 points
  18. BMW C1 176cc's of European finesse and styling haha yeah, ugly asf but thats why I like it. It has seatbelts and an interior light! Fixed it up with my dad after saving it from the scrappy for $500.
    2 points
  19. Re routed the spark leads with a custom set from segedins.
    2 points
  20. Welded up all the holes in inner guards to clean it up. Also had to tig a new panel supplied from @Carsnz123 because of damage from Aaron's ex girlfriend. All came up pretty nice
    2 points
  21. @- i5oogt -, @Carsnz123 said i can come up and drink your beer while you work. Will see you soon.
    2 points
  22. thats tomorrows job... after @JustHarry, @76rolla_gurl and myself finish it off tonight
    2 points
  23. Battery in the 121 is at least 9 years.. as is the one in the zephyr
    2 points
  24. I bought a $90 jobbie off aliexpress can charge at 20 amps but also has enough balls to jumpstart, bonus feature is a desulphation function which breaks up the acid crystals that fuck batteries. Its revived several big 6 volt deep cycle batteries now bloody good value.
    2 points
  25. Indicators finally arrived last week so fucked around with the mess under the seat and got them all working. Also brought some lame ass reflectors so as far as I'm aware I should be ready for a wof! Also went through my old phone and found a photo of the bike when I first go it, and am pretty happy with what I've done Hopefully sort warrant and license by next weekend and I'll be hitting the road. Before After
    2 points
  26. glued the screens in today. it went ok. ended up using a Henkel product which is the right stuff apparently, we'll see........ i reckon a car doesn't really look right until the screens go back in. so, the screens are back in. 2018-08-18_12-17-15 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-08-18_12-17-08 by sheepers, on Flickr
    2 points
  27. I've been trying to resist driving the Jag too much because of the condition of the rear brakes, thinking that my local Jaguar Barry was ordering me in some brake parts and would be contacting me any day once they'd arrived. Long story short, brakes not fixed and I need a new Barry. =( Meanwhile, the drivers seat had come loose and the seat heater wasn't working, so I took the seat out to have a look. What's it mounted with? Bolts that take a Torx T35. The seat heater wiring insulation was brittle and cracking and the wire had broken at an inconvenient point: I used a crimp joiner thing to fix it, and confirmed that the seat heater was working with a current clamp before putting the seat back in. Fortunately the reason for the seat being loose was just the rail coming unbolted from the frame (Jaguar appear not to have used washers), and I found a compatible replacement for the missing bolt. Now I use the seat heater at every opportunity, but considering the state of the wires and the amount of sag in the Jaguar seat bases, I don't imagine it will last long. Rather, one of these days it'll attempt to catch my arse on fire. Another thing I "fixed" is the squealing from one of the two cabin ventilation fans. I thought that the squeal plus a lack of air from the central vents meant that the motor wasn't spinning, so I took the fan out to test it. This wasn't actually too difficult - only some of the passenger side of the dash had to come out. The fan housing was getting a little rusty but the motor was OK and the brushes weren't too worn, so I lubricated it heaps and wrestled it back in place. I then realised that the central vents only lack hot air, but cold air works fine once I understand the controls. Still, the undignified motor squealing did spoil the ambience and I'm glad it's fixed (or at least stopped for a while). While trying to understand weird things about the dash, I checked the owners manual. I got a laugh out of this section, which aims to psychologically prepare you for life as an XJ-S owner:
    2 points
  28. Over the leadfoot trip had a lot of brake fluid loss so had to pull the brakes apart and re kit
    1 point
  29. I have a caliber one (super shit auto) It does lead acid, calcium, and gel. It pulses to clean the plates, and has a maintain mode when a battery is charged. It won't charge a dead flat battery though. I had a scooter battery that had sat for years and was.dead. I hooked up those test leads from it to the charger when it was charging a known good battery. Once it was charged I unhooked the good battery and used it. But I didn't realism I'd left the charger on and left those test leads on. An unknown number of days later I saw it was still turned on. And the battery had come back from.the dead.
    1 point
  30. yeah man so keen. send me a message on fb of your home address and your cell number and we can hatch a plan
    1 point
  31. Early/mid arvo at my place in pap to convoy to J5s @64vauxhall?
    1 point
  32. +1 for Ctek chargers. I have one for the jet skis and one for the Mazdas. 5 year warranty too.
    1 point
  33. Sounds to me like he's giving you Barry reasons to keep it stock
    1 point
  34. New inspirational photos of a Deluxe cub WITH a full rear fender... mmmmm mmm yummy
    1 point
  35. ive been there every day, just in case you fellas show up again!
    1 point
  36. Did most of the work on the tailgate this evening at work.... New lower skin to go on tomorrow.
    1 point
  37. Making a start here too WTB: rest of bike
    1 point
  38. Next was to fix the soundz. I had my aging oonst oonst gear left over from my Rover stashed away and ready to go. I ripped out the Jag's existing head unit and got the door cards off. Check out the little rain hats on the factory speakers: Also notice how they're just mounted directly to the disintegrating door card. I'm not impressed. Here are the old and new speakers: They look about the same size but just like the Jag's imperial bolt sizes, the speaker hole spacing is just a little bit off. If you want to retain the original speaker grilles, you're in trouble because the new speakers have to sit on the bolts which are actually part of the grilles: I ended up slotting the mounting holes in the speakers even further and bending the mounting bolts. Then I had to cut the bolts down short cos they fouled the door metal once I'd splayed them outward. Because I was using component tweeters, I had to run extra wires between the door and the interior. I can report that the Jag is more thoroughly built than other cars I've owned, but no better designed. It was not easy to run these wires. Aaand when it was all back together, I discovered one of my tweeters was blown. Couldn't get identical replacements because obscure brand. Bought some Soundstream ones which are way too loud. I think there is a jumper on the crossover boxes to set the level of the tweeters, so I need to pull the door cards off again to check whether I can tone down the killer treble. Right now I can't be bothered. It's better than it was. Also, there's no room for my amplifier and subwoofer. The Jag's seats are so close to the floor that I don't even think a modern slim active sub would fit under there, so I'm living without a sub. =( While I was hunting around the car for spare space (there isn't any - every little cavity has mysterious relays just chilling in there already), I removed the false floor in the passenger footwell. A chill ran down my spine as I gazed upon the heart of Darkness: I quickly put the covers back, nailed them down and drove a stake into the floor. Next thing: Wheel balancing. Done. This car has actual Linglong brand tyres all round. =| Next: Grinding brake noises. I took it to a shop and they put it on their hoist..... This is one of the inboard rear brake discs. Both discs are similarly unhappy. I was directed to a Jaguar Barry, who says that if you buy cheap handbrake pads, the friction material detaches from the backing plates or the whole lot falls out of the calipers and that's probably why the discs are wrecked around the outer edges. My car is going to be booked in for new discs etc. Apparently the way to work on the rear brakes is by removing the rear seat and getting at them through an access panel in the floor! Next thing: The illumination of the '70s-tastic instrument cluster is so poor I can't really drive the car at night, and the minor gauges are all reading too low. "Experience In A Book - Help For The Jaguar XJ-S Owner" (henceforth referred to as The Barry Bible) told me this instrument cluster is some of the Prince of Darkness's finest work and I'll love it. Barry was right - look at how the electrical connections to the minor gauges are done: You get one-and-a-bit threads of screw gnawing into a copper PCB track and that's your connection. The head of this screw sits against the flexible plastic circuitry on the rear of the instrument cluster, so the screw is the current path. Also, the entire instrument cluster earths through just one pin of one plug, which is predictably prone to being rubbish. There are many reports of XJ-S gauges under-reading by a quarter just like mine were. I even found that someone in the past had removed the bulb from my alternator warning light...... Thankfully the illumination of the instruments is via conventional bulbs and not the weird fiber optic centralised system someone mentioned in the discussion thread. The main bulb for the speedo had just about gone black, so I replaced it with a higher wattage one to offset 30 years of voltage loss. Following the Barry Bible instructions, I put some solder on the minor gauge PCB pads where those screw tips bite, I cleaned every connection and I made up an additional earth for the cluster. Now I can actually make out the speedo at night (just), I've gained oil pressure and voltage and a little bit of engine temperature. The alternator light now works properly too. The Prince of Darkness' crappy electrics driving me to distraction and making me want to put a bullet in something meant that I simply HAD to buy this air freshener - "Driven Into Darkness": Fortunately it doesn't smell like Lucas smoke. I was hoping that cleaning all these instrument connections would make the engine temperature gauge read in the Normal range, but it still doesn't quite get there. A new temperature sender is a hundred bucks and fitting a new thermostat would require me to spill my new coolant everywhere. Grrr. Also, the boot smells like petrol so I pulled the spare tyre and all of the trim out. You can see the ninety-one litre fuel tank (which has already been replaced once), the fuel pump and the battery. The Barry Bible says the battery is supposed to have a special attachment to vent its gases outside of the car to stop them rusting everything. Also, Barry says condensation on the tank or rust around the rear window causes water to sit in the foam pad they cleverly mounted the tank on, rusting out the tank. The tank also leaks from stress on its overengineered and uncommon pipework fittings and basically any other excuse. This enables the XJ-S to guzzle petrol even when the engine's not running! The fix is to rip out the British and replace it with custom. Maybe some other time.
    1 point
  39. Back on its wheels. Height is perfect hopefully not too much guard work to eliminate any rubbing..
    1 point
  40. im back and this time ive got pictures haha currently im changing my water pipe relocation from around the back to out the front as i dont trust it and finishing off my turbo lines as they are fugly as braided in coming. Here is a pick of my current engine bay status
    1 point
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