Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/11/17 in all areas

  1. My name is Jeffy and this is my truck. Figured I should put up a build thread for this now that ive started working on this, shes a 1947 Chevrolet 3100 that I brought in February this year off my bosses mate just out of Hamilton. Until now I have had a few mid eighty's shitters pass through my hands but had always wanted to take on a proper project that I can put in some real effort into rather then just doing glorified maintenance. The dream had been to buy an early 60's Chevy pick up but they had always been out of my price bracket so figured it was not gonna happen in the near future but then this came up and after selling off a lot of excess cars and parts and a little bit of help from the bank of mum and dad we are where we are today. Im only an apprentice so progress will be slow as the money trickles in but im lucky to be surrounded by many knowledgeable people so I hope to be able to do all the work myself. Running gear: Mitsi L200 Chassis RX7 Batty brakes up front and a EA Falcon LSD rear end Refreshed 305 Chev converted to Carb with a Turbo 350. Have sold the box to fund a manual. Truck is NZ new so factory RHD Cab has been dropped over the chassis with the intention is for it to sit on bang on 100mm without having to lower the suspension. Im sure there is heaps more to say but first thing is to do all the rust in the cab so got it on the rotisserie in the weekend and started pulling the upper cowl off as its cooked. Ill put up more photos once ive figured it out. Discussion :
    22 points
  2. right side up upside down welding removed even more car made a C notch for more slam and got fully sideways
    18 points
  3. So after hanmeet I got told about an old yard on marshlands road full of rusty old cars, as we were rather hungover from the Saturday night me and my mate couldn't really be bothered going. After having lunch in woodend on the way back I thought we may as well have a gander around as it's on the way home. Holy shit what a good idea that was, the place was amazing and full of rusty old Shit. I then spotted this wee lada 2102 wagon nestled between an HQ wagon and what was left of an XD wagon, I had to look closer, what a little gem, it wasn't as fucked as 90% of the cars in the yard as well, opened the doors and the interior was still very tidy for something that had been sitting in a paddock for over a decade. I had Karl and EJ egging me on to get it but I knew the missus would slaughter me if I came home with another car so I just left it. But then I kept thinking about it. Fast forward 2 weeks and here I am with a car trailer at the yard picking it up. Thankfully the wheels still turned and tyres held air once pumped up. It is dereged but is still in the system, still has wof and rego tags from 2004 as well which will help with revin. It has a lot of rust but looks to be all fixable thankfully. Plans are just to revin at this stage then obvious things like slam, reyums etc. Anyway enough of my sharns, have some pics.
    12 points
  4. Then today at work we were all sitting around laughing about what the hell id bought and I thought I'd see if it was seized or not, didn't have very high hopes, but, it turned pretty freely, stoked! Then the obvious next step was to see if it started, cleaned up the plugs and points and hooked up a Jerry can to the fuel pump and it took a few tries but it eventually fired into life, soon after I had a gander and found someone had fucked with the throttle linkages and they were all round the wrong way and pointing in all directions so hooked them back up to what looked to be right and then it actually got off idle! Been thrashing it round the yard after work this evening. Shit it's a hoot to drive and runs so damn well too!! Have a video or 2.
    11 points
  5. Not a lot has happened to this thing, still drive it as a daily. Bought some 13x6.5" and 7" Hayashi Streets from Japan a year ago. They were fully powdercoated black so I stripped that off and gave them a polish. Only recently purchased some tires and fitted them. They're too wide for the guards without pulling them out, which I don't want to do. So I'm selling them if anyone is interested. Also after another pair of starsharks in 13x6.5" if anyone knows of any.
    7 points
  6. Finally got around to pulling the rear fairing etc off today, found it was date coded Feb 1983 and from what I can find they started making the Gyro X in September 1982.Also found the paint code, NH-111 "Cortina white", my new plastics are NH-138 "Shasta white" which is a lot less yellow.Fairing had one tiny crack, managed to plastic weld the inside, touch of filler before paint and it'll be mint.Removed the remains of the step mount There is meant to be a battery mount and cable guides etc there! Couple nudes My bud in Japan is sorting out a decent second hand step mount and some more new genuine parts, I took a bit more time checking the part numbers this time!! On the bright side at least I've got smooth locks and nice new genuine keys. Hopefully will find the time tomorrow to take my plastics around a couple of local painters, going to get quotes on painting the lot in a metallic vs just the rear fairing, storage bin and ignition shroud in Shasta white.
    6 points
  7. Didn't like the straight 90 deg at the end of the tie downs, support braces, so 45'd them. Flapped back the welds for a tidy finish. Sloped back the rear braces As you can see by the photo's, the guards have inch box section welded along them - two reasons strength for the guards for when people inevitably stand/sit on them, and when loading cars so the guards cannot be directly smacked. I also weld a stay underneath in the middle of them for more strength What you cant see here, is the ramps are welded up, and mounted underneath, slide in/out (forgot to take photos) - although they may not seem like it, there is almost as much work in the ramps themselves as there is the plain chassis itself
    5 points
  8. *Photo heavy post* Been getting some free time lately to get into me old girls, So as of late i went ham and cut back 90% of the rust and smashed on some POR15 to seal it up then coat of colour matched paint for now, keep that patina look lol. have been purchasing care packages of parts, each time making her run that much better. Now to the point where i get 600kms to the tank of 95 without fail! pritty stoaked so i daily this beast now. Not sure if i posted it but i ended up having hawkes bays 2 gold cressidas I nabbed the facelift front and various other pieces, fixed up the shotty engine, adjusted all the valve timing on the correct rotations.. ran mint then sold to a young fella in Napier basically where im at now riding on Riverside Reverges, this is the first car which ive actually really loved to look at and enjoy driving every day Lots of little pieces ive replaced, trim clips you name it, pritty pedantic but its paying off. So far the engine have a new fuel filter/plugs/leads/thermostat/cambelt shizz/afm/tps/screw bung etc etc heres the latest package Filler cap seal was rock hard, so is the rocker cover seals but that wont be done till i get my turbo...oh yeah im chucking a turbo on as well lol will shed light on that in due time other things ive done during my hiatus on here was jap spec chrome wing mirrors, gx71 mk2 sedan monsoons, factory headlight covers, nardi classic woodgrain wheel, carozzeria parcel shelf speakers that light up with the park lights, I made a VU meter bar from led kits and a bit of ingenuity, works pritty trick. Latest installment was to fix the dented lower valance, been pissing me off for years Fitted the og undertray that i pinched from the other cressida While i was at it i fitted the facelift front lip, eventually ill colour match it but its ok for now \ Thanks for reading if you made it this far lol, hopefully keep this thread more up to date as the turbo setup becomes complete
    5 points
  9. Whack a carb on it mate. Problem solved. Pewhuehue
    5 points
  10. So, after a couple of years of borrowing mum's trailer for my racing, having to ask to borrow it or retrieve and fix/maintain it after being lent to randoms, I'd decided to build my own, quite similar in design to what I've used, but with a few lessons learnt. Originally was going to Hot dip Galv the trailer, but strong CBF factor for drilling holes and warping the guards, tipping it over soon put me off. Have decided it will be Sandblasted, epoxy primed then painted in 2k. This took me roughly 2 hours to have tacked together; Added Draw bar, flipped it over for storage, couple of braces for drawbar & hydraulic couping mount Offset the winch, rather than have it pull from the centre where its a pain to stand and winch - and no cars ever have the tow point dead in the centre really.. Doubler plates for the safety chains - pain in the ass welding outside with the slightest breeze 3 Ton springs installed Made the axles - braked on the front - such a ball ache calculating them with offset, clearance, dowels for the springs.
    4 points
  11. Time for the annual thread update. Haven't done anything to this. Pumped up the tyres and went for a skid out at Pukekohe. You will note I've done nothing about fixing the windscreen wipers. At one point the drivers side one overshot and went past the A-pillar but came back again. Maybe I'll fix that next year. For some reason they ran the old track at Puke with the long back straight. Top end of 5th gear got a bit interesting, and not particularly reassuring that the only thing preventing overshoot and possible death was brake calipers off a 1970s Austin Princess. Listen the the symphony of thrashing a 4AGE and a diff with slightly the wrong clearances (sorry, it's not straight cut gears).
    4 points
  12. back to the middle of this side, i was thinking about how to attack this area while doing the other bits. Annoying design and lots of acute angles bleahhhhhggg oh well, chop chop. You can tell why they always rust here! Right behind the wheel into a tight corner with factory leaks into and around the A pillar. This is was replacement (not new) fender, but i needed to chop a lot out to get at the a pillar properly anyway, and it is sized nicely to the end section of the fender thats not welded. the the 'channel' is actually a hook for the top of the fender as there is no access to weld it, so i could just pull it off once i drilled out some spots where it folds over behind the door recess. I rebuilt this whole area last time, all the rest is still good. looking a the piece from the engine side, the 8mm lip hooks on the channel. Thusly: I put a good bead of seam sealer on both sides before tacking it in, and more on after from under neath. The channel will be filled to just below level with seam sealer too, like the other side (i didnt do this last time) And done. A couple more patches on the front valance to do, then its all filler, no killer
    4 points
  13. Build thread of my tired old Lancer EX. Discussion thread is here: Bought about 6-7 years ago. Was a mint example with no rust, no paint blemishes and perfect interior and no mechanical issues to speak of. After those 6-7 years of driving the elements have not been kind to the old girl, have had the boot lip replaced with new steel and rubber, drivers seat is wearing out, lost a mud flap along the way, paint peeled off after gumboot rally stickers would not remove after the latest escapade, hus been up and down all over the north island. Has been thrashed round Taupo a few times and Manfield so the engine is starting to get a bit tired. Has had new wheels and tyres, new shocks, all new suspension bushes, tie rods etc in the front. Next on the list is a 4G63 SOHC swap which is in progress. Plans for this are big cam, forged pistons and rods, port and polish, increase compression to 10.5:1 with the help of custom pistons, Balance shaft removal, balance and lighten flywheel, clutch assembly, rods, pistons and crank. Have acquired 2x Dellorto DHLA 45's to go on but one requires repair as the barrel is out of round and the throttle plate does not seal. Some pics: I am learning as I go with the engine build and this thread will mostly cover what information I find along the way and success/issues I come across along the way. Any criticism and ideas to help this along is welcome
    3 points
  14. Wagnats 2018 142 DAYS 15 HOURS 46 MINUTES 25 SECONDS and counting...S https://www.timeanddate.com/countdown/vacation?iso=20180201T12&p0=264&msg=Wagnats+2018&font=sanserif&csz=1 Sweet purchase man!
    3 points
  15. Still attempting to get time off for this but heres pics for all those going to look forward to And Rere Falls near gizzy, maybe too far of a detour on the last day. Lush though. And natural rock waterslide 2kms past this
    3 points
  16. What have I done. Build thread here
    2 points
  17. When kids ask what's the point of Maths, from now on I'll be able to reference you/this diagram...
    2 points
  18. I ordered a cheap wireless remote, that controls some relays. Here it is boggied up to see if it works Which it did. I'll use it to control a 5/2 solenoid valve via a 12vdc battery as a power supply. I calculated that a 7Ahr battery would last about 420 days of use, so I'll just run with that. The solenoid will operate two pneumatic cylinders. I made this up this morning from a 1300mm stroke cylinder that i got for free, which I shortened to 598mm That's it test fitted. It took me all week to figure out the vectors, as it moves the gate 133° of arc. 90° is easy, but anything beyond that took a little figuring out. Although, now I understand the principal it would only take a minute to do next time
    2 points
  19. Back to those bad decisions... I don't really want to share these photos, but am going post them for the sake of good record keeping. I did all this with maximum haste and minimum care and it shows. First up, half assed tub job. From what I remember, I left the paint on for most of these welds. I also did the tubs and "wedge" sections before the front rad support panel was removed, so it was hard to get in there.... But never cleaned up the welds after removing the slam panel. Started by attacking them with a flap wheel to get rid of all the super high spots. I'm going to clean all the welds up as much as possible and will re-weld some parts. There will be grinding.... And welding.... And cleaning.... And filler. The inside is just as bad: Like, what the actual fuck 23 year old Markku? You didn't even cut the bottom edge straight! Oh well, just weld'er'up anyway I guess!?!?! Firewall - not finished and the welding at the back needs to be taken away and shot. Firewall notch to get the coil pack out - this was done at the track or on the dyno when we realised that the coil hit the seam: Started by cleaning up the edges and will weld parts of the seam: Next issue - engine mounts. The original idea consisted of pancaking a piece of Urethane between the engine mount and the pedestal with a bolt going through. In other words, it was basically solid mounted... Until the bolts snapped from the torque, vibrations and bumps. This was the situation when I removed the engine: On top of that, 3 out of 4 of my gearbox mount bolts had disappeared! So the engine and box would have been flubbering around like a kitty on crack. The best solution is a set of Land Rover engine mounts as seen in @DAD's KP build thread. These are 10mm taller than what I had before (26mm vs 36mm), but I've got another solution in the works to get the height right. Old: New: I'll also need to re-set a captured nut into the pedestal. I'm currently trying to decide on the strongest way to do this... The pedestals are welded onto the crossmember, so the only way in is from the top... I can either drill a big hole and weld a flange nut in there from above OR drill a bigger hole and weld an extra plate on top of the pedestal with a nut welded from underneath. I'm open to ideas - what have you got? So I'm taking the run bearing as a blessing after seeing the sum total of issues that need to be sorted. I'll be spending the next few months getting this right and am taking ti as an opportunity to learn some new skills and will take my time to get it looking good. Luckily I work for a company that sells flap wheels, grinding discs and linishing belts! Here's a pic of @nothingsfree's engine bay for inspiration:
    2 points
  20. Started populating the board tonight I realized I've put the bar the wrong way around. I need to trim all the leads and make up the power supply so I'll double check everything another day I had a look through my box of tubes and they are all too small. I'll just have to order some more
    2 points
  21. If I could go back and talk to 23 year old Markku I'd give myself a good clip around the ears. There's untold amounts of messy work that I did whilst in a rush, half cut and on a university budget... Credit where credit's due - I managed to go racing with almost no income (thanks Studylink!), but I'm about to pay the price for it now. More on that later... Last Friday after work @Rhyscar, @mark105, @japawagons and I bombed down to Palmy for the weekend to go racing and celebrate a friend's 30th. It's been a while since I last raced this car at Manfeild, so I was pumped for a good weekend. I'm happy with the look of the red bonnet too - in the right light you don't notice that it's a different shade of red... It'll look really good when we re-wrap it with the right colour! Got the car out onto the track on Saturday and it was going REALLY well. It felt peppy and was turning well. The rebuilt front shocks have made a difference! The rear felt OK, but Rhys noticed it was hitting the bump stops on the way out of some corners which was unsettling the rear - big skids ensued! I played with the rear compression settings and it got much better - good bump compliance, good turn and fast corner speeds. It felt faster than ever through the Turn 2 sweeper and was easy to point around the last corner which is a great sign. I still had a few issues with it being a bit twitchy, so now it's time to play with rebound settings and get it dialled in nicely. I left on Saturday pretty happy with the car and was looking forward to Sunday. We headed off to do some drinking with the birthday boy: Started the car on Sunday morning to warm it up and there was a ticking sound. After a bit of revving and diagnosis it became apparent that the noise was big end knock. Bugger! We drained the oil and saw evidence of glitter - Sunday was done before it even started. Turns out I could have had more to drink on Saturday night after all! Pulled the engine out yesterday and dropped the sump to inspect. First thing I noticed was this: And there was some crap in the strainer. Inspected further - all 4 big ends look like this: And all 4 mains look like this: Crank: Took the crank to ST Automotive in Cambridge today to get the crank measured and inspected. Shane said I'd got away with murder! The crank measured up perfectly and there's no grooves. Win! He looked at the big end bearings and told me that the wear didn't look like oil starvation. Most likely cause? Not enough clearance on the bearings. He's suggested that I take the block out to him and he'll get everything right and reassemble it with ACL race bearings. Now that the engine's out I've got a front row seat to see all the terrible panel work I did 5 years ago.... So back to that conversation about 23 year old Markku's bad decisions....
    2 points
  22. Shit yeah! epic find! Also that reversing light that dangles below the bumper, rare as hens teeth, to still have it on is impressive!
    2 points
  23. Pic for reference of colour scheme
    2 points
  24. Take some design cues from your other cars and turn this into an 80s custom Rectangle headlamp conversion and a Tron style paintjob
    2 points
  25. So disappointed with the forks, I occupied myself with some bodywork on Friday night. Had a go at filling the indicator holes on the front fairing. Started with these cutouts which i holesawed out of broken fairing: To fill these holes: Ground them down to the correct size and shape on the bench grinder: Took the paint off in prep for welding: Stitched it in to the hole: Let that cool over a beer and cig, then welded it in proper: Plastic was pretty thin here: Welded up the backside once that had cooled: Built up the backside where i blew that hole through with a couple of bits of old fairing, and its as solid as a rock now. Didnt take any pics of that but. Gave it a quick sand, and this is where we're at: The other side: will throw some filler at it and then it will be done.
    2 points
  26. moar rust :/ started from teh back working my way forward. A lot of bubbles and chips and seam at the base of the C pillar and boot and also boot to valance stripper disced back but no holes, so thats nice, still have to bog it back up again all the same. Anyway thats boring no pics. First holes are in the sill below the rear door, you can just spot a butt weld where i previously replaced the section forward of here: Still nice and solid and clean where i got paint in: This is why you should always do it properly - i tried filling thin spots last time and it doesnt work long term... a bit of CAD and then to the machine shop! And then in lots of time at all, BAM! a bit o primer for appearances sake, tends to catch on fire and contaminate the weld if it gets hot Nice! (this never happens the first go) tack tack tack tack tack tack tack tack tack tack grind then DA, done, and next bit
    2 points
  27. So i have been pretty quiet on the corona front, Firstly due to needing/wanting to build a new bike for QCR Dirtmasters '17, which saw me spending every evening in the garage for the best part of a month smashing out this pretty wild gn125 powered XL80(mostly) build. Whilst all that was happening i went through a couple of jobs and money was very tight (the xl80 build was only possible thanks to the epic group that is QCR!) but things have started to come right, and ultimately ill be making a big career change in the future, but its almost guaranteed financial security so onward with the projects! things i have done but dont have pictures of are fit the 450cc injectors Modify the fuel rail to have a AN- fitting on the regulator side to facilitate a boost referenced fuel regulator which i am yet to purchase. die grind all the internals of the pipe work after the welding, and formed a bead for the silicone joiner to secure over. make a top bracket for the blower so now its rock solid (you can see this in following pictures) Paint the new wheels and polish the spokes. now need to polish the lips before purchasing tires and fitting. Yesterday i set up all my heat lamps and gave the blower, brackets and pipework a good coat of wrinkle black and im so stoked with how it looks. the pipes not look almost like factory castings. the intake pipe will need a touch up as an area obviously didn't have enough heat to wrinkle up but no big deal. the HT leads will also be run underneath the manifold. longer ones may be required but i have a few sets here to try out. sorry about the blury photos, i had to hold my lamps up and take the picture with one hand since i cant roll the car out of my gloomy garage! Discussion -
    2 points
  28. only took another year and a half to get all barred up about this again
    2 points
  29. So, with the help of a friend, finished off the throttlecable for the manifold. Decided I'd make a log manifold for the vacuum ports off the carbs, used seam sealer on some factory plastic pipe and capped the end- hoping for the advance and maybe boosted brakes but who knows how well it will work.. Whitleytune Manifold fitted perfectly, looks very smart indeed - I've had it blasted after being machined. Back of the manifold after being surface ground flat. Running the original intank lift pump. After the first fire up it was leaking out the carbs, and had a puddle under the floor. I left it for the night, came back in the morning to find I'd left the barb fitting loose from where I'd put the inline filter & hose, and the carbs were most likely leaking from sitting from a sticky needle/float valves. Need to balance them properly, however for 5 min of running they are running beautifully - better than the CIS unit ever did in my ownership.. Cannot thank Rob enough for his work and persistence in making the manifold, and friend Gary for his help modifying the original cable to work. Can even shut the bonnet without it hitting anything! Discuss; //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48778-chriss-1987-mkii-golf-eurocup-racer-car-with-added-moss/
    1 point
  30. House goals: http://www.fox13news.com/news/hurricane-irma/miami-couples-compromise-during-storm-preps-ends-with-car-in-living-room
    1 point
  31. Make up a tool similar to what is used when closing up folded joins in sheetmetal. Then hit it from the underside with said tool. Found a better representation of the seaming tool I tried to draw above... Used them a bunch when forming sheetmetal joins, make a neat job and are consistent.
    1 point
  32. Not a massive update, just been sorting my other car to sell...trying to keep 3 cars on the road is stupid.. My aim is to set small goals at a time so i can keep chipping away at it which i feel is better than not doing anything at all. So today amongst everything else, i made some spacers to even out the x-member and it worked a treat!
    1 point
  33. Bump. This bike now lives in a fish bin pending motivation after it devolved into a pile of turds. Got this trademe special to hoon around on. Someone had bought the spendy bits and then given up on it. Came with all the bits I just had to get it rideable and reg it. Done!
    1 point
  34. Roof has reached the 'good enough for me for now' stage, so removed the masking. Put the fuel pump in and moved it out of the garage today. I need to sand and buff the clear coat on the tailgatess before they go back on. Also the steel floor panel needs some attention as it has a bit of surface rust on the lower mounting surfaces, and I don't want to mess up the new paint in the back. Metalflake I'd rate as 'OK for a first attempt' I need to 'phone a friend' to help with the windscreen reinstall.
    1 point
  35. best way to test the booster is to pump the brake pedal a few times with the engine off then hold your foot on the brakes and start the engine. if the booster is working then your foot will sink a bit as the booster applies more brakes. also with the engine at idle quickly push and release the pedal once. if the revs change then there is a leak internally and the booster is naf. To me it sounds like the slow circuit in the carb has a blockage or restriction. probably needs a good clean.
    1 point
  36. Can you turn up to cert someones car on this please Clint. Then can you post an account of their reactions for my amusement?
    1 point
  37. I started with a plate roughly the right size with a bit to spare. Put a fold in it to form a nice big flange and used the bead roller to start forming the dimple that was in the original panel. Put a bit more shape into the dimple and started to trim it to size. Then I cut out the rotten part leaving plenty of extra material to spare. I decided to drill out my nice new spot welds and remove that extra little piece of original material since I'm cutting out everything attached to it too. In hindsight I should have drilled them from the other side but oh well, I can fill them up later. I continued trimming and fiddling until it fit nicely and clamped up. So I zapped it in.I didn't tack the front edge ahead of the dimple because I'm replacing all the steel forward of there anyway later on. That's today's progress so far. I'll probably head back out in a bit and form up the other side too.
    1 point
  38. This is part way through. I love the welds where you don't have to add filler. So pretty. When it was done I ground it back and fettled the shrunken areas. This was the result. And on the car. I'm not a big fan of tooting one's own horn so to speak but this is definitely one of the better jobs I've done. It'll take a little more tickling with a hammer and dolly but then a skim of bog or even just high build primer and you'll never know it was done. I also set out today with the goal of building a new inner brace panel to tie this part to the front panel in behind the headlight. I did get it all built up but my phone died so no photos of that tonight. I'll snap a few tomorrow. Meanwhile my plan for tomorrow is to move on to the A-pillar mounting flange modifications and a substantial rust repair in the lower rear corner of the guard. That's the plan anyway.
    1 point
  39. Well shit. No going back now. With that cut out I trimmed the new section to fit the hole nicely and tacked it in.In hindsight I probably should have left a bigger root gap between the two panels to help with penetration and reduce warpage but I'm not too worried because worst case I can get a dolly behind all the points to be welded so I can bash it all back to straight if I need to. This is me showing off how not quite bang on the two profiles areAgain, nothing a hammer and dolly wont fix. And the final tacked and ground panel before knocking off for the night. I'll finish this up tomorrow and move on to rebuilding the mounting flange panel that sits in behind it that I pulled out two posts ago.
    1 point
  40. While I was under there, I smacked another lump and this fell out. You can see the rust holes that have come through and the other side is scaly and gross. So I guess it's another big ole' patch then. Before I began I taped the bog back into place to give me the shape I needed to reproduce. Sorry my phone camera is pretty crap in low light but you get the picture. I started with a piece of steel measured to be well bigger than what would be necessary to give myself some wiggle room. Then I started to form it with a mallet and panel beater's hammers over a sand bag. I also used the shrinker along the edge to pull it around where necessary. Then I marked out a grid on the new steel and a corresponding one on the original guard (you can actually see this in the very first photo because I took them out of order). Then I used a shape transferring tool to make each line on the grids match as near as dammit. Note that the tig weld spots aren't tacking it in place. I used the tig to shrink the compound curve on this corner to pull it down closer to the right shape. It's like using an oxy-acetylene torch but you don't have to worry about a huge flame going every which way. We also don't have an oxy-acetylene torch so needs must. Once I was happy with the shape, it was time to cut away the old shitty "steel"...
    1 point
  41. When I went to test fit the guard to the car I found that a couple of the riv-nuts had pulled up crooked, as you can see here... This meant I couldn't get a bolt in there to save myself. So out came the drill and out came the cocked up riv-nuts. Once some new ones were in there nice and straight, I bolted it all up tight and stood back. Here are the results. This is how I ended up fixing the lower rear corner. And these are the panel gaps Not perfect but not awful. Likewise. Especially considering all of the grey panel is brand new. And this brings us up to the present. My plan over the next couple of nights is to repeat the guard work on the driver's side and get the mounting flanges and rust repairs all fabricated up. Obviously updates will slow down a bit now as I actually have to do the work in real time. I'll post some more pics up soon. Hurmeez
    1 point
  42. With the front end of the guards all set it was time to sort out the back end. The original welded A pillar mounting flange was pretty buggered so I chopped out all the rot and made a template to rebuild the flange. Then cut it out of steel and tacked it on. Looks good. So I fully welded it on. Then I threw the door and bonnet back on to check the panel gaps Not too shabby. Next was to take the plunge and start putting holes in my panels. I started by drilling a 3mm hole through both top flanges while the guard was clamped in place to ensure the holes would line up perfectly. Then I pulled it all apart and drilled the outer flange out to 7mm and the inner to less than that (I can't remember what it was exactly but it fit the riv-nuts perfectly). I put the riv-nuts in place and pulled them up tight before throwing it all back together with bolts this time to check the fitment. Looks good to me. I learned that the final bolts I'm going to use can be and should be much shorter than the furniture screws I am using to mock everything up, but other than that everything fits up great. I didn't take any photos of making the inner and outer flanges on the top of the guard for this side, but I still have the other side to do yet and I'll be sure to document that when I do it.
    1 point
  43. I'd known there was a bubble here for a while but while offering up the guard to see how the panel gap was I pushed on the front bottom corner and the hole thing flexed with a distinctly crunchy sound. So I chipped and wire wheeled the bog off the top and found this. Note the "repair." So out came the slitting disk and out came the rot I would have liked to go higher up the hinge panel but there is a reinforcing panel behind the hinges. It was in good condition and I couldn't be arsed to deal with the can off worms shifting the hinge would have done so it was this far and no further. Then it was time for a template Then spray the paper with some silver paint And bam, brand new steel
    1 point
  44. ...The guards. Right. So I started by stripping the paint off of the passenger side guard to find this... It's not easy to see but someone has beat the shit out of it with a ball peen hammer and then bogged over it to bring it back to straight. I really shouldn't be surprised at this point. Even so, this sort of work was a bit much for me to handle at that point and it was a bit discouraging but I bravely soldiered on and got stuck into the passengers side door. Obviously . To be continued...
    1 point
  45. On to the other side. I tore the A pillar off this side and found another piss poor repair attempt in the wheel arch. So while I was there I cut it all out as well as the front portion of the sill which needed rust repairs as well. When I cut the sill off I was particularly careful to keep the steel I ground out to a minimum. I used the thinnest slitting disk we have as you can see in the last photo, and kept it down to about 1mm or so lost material. The inner sill was cut out too for the same reasons. As you can see I also added in some bracing since I'm taking out so much structural material and I'd rather be safe than sorry. Then I set about rebuilding the front of the sill. I preferred at this stage to tack with the MIG and do the proper welding with the TIG as the photos show. Again, not my best work but as they say, "a grinder and paint make me the welder I aint" Then I used the through panel clamps to hold the sill in place while I tacked it back on. I used the original splitting disk to set the root gap of the weld to make doubly sure it was in exactly the same place as when it came off. Then it was tacked and fully welded back on, taking breaks and letting it cool to keep distortion down to a minimum. Turned out pretty good. Skim of filler, paint, you'll never know.
    1 point
  46. So I slapped that bracket in and bolted to door up to look at the fitment. As you can see, somethings not right. The door doesn't open near far enough and after some investigation I realised that the check strap bracket was about 5mm to far inboard. That meant the check strap couldn't extend far enough to allow the door to open properly. So out had to come the check strap bracket. Unfortunately some dick had plug welded the snot out of it and so I had to drill out the welds, shift it over, and weld it back in. I love making more work for myself.
    1 point
  47. 1 point
  48. Next job was to prep the new repro A pillar panels for welding in. The original pillar has a reinforcing panel welded in the back side of the outer skin. So I set about reproducing that from some shiny new steel. The gussets are there to replace swages that continued around the fold in the panel. I can tell you first hand that they are a real bitch to try and replicate (read: I fucked one royally and had to start the whole lot over trying to do it) so I opted to do these gusset type things instead. They provide much more stiffness than the stock piece anyway. Then I had to modify a mk1 escort A pillar repair panel because the mk2 estate pillar is very similar but uses mk2 style bolt on door hinges instead of the welded on mk1 style. Like so... Then the two get zapped together with a bajillion plug welds to make sure that shit aint going nowhere. I used the TIG for all these plug welds but it was such a pain in the butt and took so long that I would use the MIG next time. It came out pretty neat though I thought.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Auckland/GMT+13:00
×
×
  • Create New...