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Last night I welded up the 2 little leaks I found on the exhaust, one I had just finished the weld about 1mm short leaving a pin hole, hammered the flange flat so it actually seals against the bore which got rid of a major leak and a lot of the excess noise. Then I went back through the carb to see if I could figure out why it was running so rich, turned out I'd missed that the needle had been lifted to it's max height so yeah dropped it back to the centre slot and reassembled everything. Should have got a video, but it's running so much nicer, still a bit of tuning needed I'd say but we'll see once it is ridable again. Courier came again this morning! Placed this order on the 13th of August, thanks to the big summer holiday it wasn't sent from Japan until the 22nd but it only took 4 days to get here, and that's when the fun started! Customs tried to charge me an obscene amount of $$ to apply for some special permit or license as they had decided this was a commercial order and that I must be running a business etc. Took so many phone calls and emails with everybody I talked to giving me a different story about what was going on and what I needed to do to get it cleared. Finally yesterday I managed to convince someone it was just bits for my own scooter and had it released, annoyingly between the 13th and yesterday the NZD/JPY exchange rates had changed and put the total over the threshold so I still had to fork out an extra $120. but thats much better then the $650odd I was being told earlier in the week!!! So enough words, you all just want to have a nose in my box right? A whole pile of genuine Honda goodness!! Would have really liked the rear plastic too, but not for $500 before shipping! So now it's pretty much time for paint and to tidy up all the little details, sort out bar controls and other smaller bits. If the rear plastic wasn't so far out of my reach I may have even considered sticking with the white, it's so crisp looking all fresh and new lol

Further to last update I finished (roughly) the fuel pump setup last night: FUEL PUMP Take one piece of aluminum off the side of a broken welder, cut it into shape, cover it in kids dura-seal and drill some mounting holes. Whip out Ali Express's finest (cheapest) Riv-nut gun and slam in some captive nuts unlike everything else British. Re-purposed the old fuel pump bracket to hold the pressure relief valve. More captive nuts and a coat of whatever paint I had lying around. Complete setup installed. Factory pre-filter on the left (with new filter) - Bosch fuel pump - high pressure filter - pressure relief valve - metering unit. Not the tidiest solution but wanted to re-use a fair bit of what I already had to keep the cost down. This will be coming out again to weld up an exhaust mount underneath the floor and i'll blast some paint in there at the same time.

So I have been scanning Oldschool for a few years but I don’t pipe up much. But since breaking my collarbone a week ago whilst skiing I have found time to finally put together a build thread to hopefully catalogue the cars journey. Model Info Japan import 1982 Toyota Corona Mark II Grande GX61 (pre-facelift sedan). 1G-EU, 2-litre, 6-cylinder, automatic with over drive. Background For the majority of its life it was owned by a Lady in her 70s-90s. She used the car as her daily as I believe and was apparently always garaged. She even wore leather driving gloves, which I still have one of, and resides in the glove box. The other was sadly lost before my ownership. She then passed the car onto her granddaughter’s boyfriend. The car then went through a couple of hands in under a year before finally reaching mine. I brought the Car in September 2015, 2 years ago Why Buy That Piece of 80s Rust? As a kid I always drew pictures of cars and the dream cars were the A80 & A70 Supras. However this then changed at the age of 16 to the Celica XX/GA61, (8 years later this is still the dream car sadly). So I move to Dunedin to study and a certain car catches my eye on my first day down there. A Cream Toyota Cressida Waggon scraping down the main street, ring a bell? I was lost for words, it was fucking amazing. But a guy just down the street didn’t think so yelling out something like “Buy a new car you .....”. After a few weeks I worked out the owner was in my course, and that’s when I meet Zeb. Zeb then opened my eyes up to all the 80s Toyota goodness and Oldschool.co.nz (however I didn’t follow oldschool till many years later). Then I got the Toyota bug. So what’s the first thing to do when you finish studying and have a job…..buy a 80s Toyota that’s what. Also the pictures of the cars potential with some low and some simple SSR mk1s that the previous owner had put up on the sale post pushed me along. Note that the following pictures are from the previous owner. I purchased the car entirely stock. I will update this thread over the next few days hopefully upto where it is now.

My sister has a new workshop and she said you should come see it, particularly if you like Nissans & Toyotas 28 October. There will be pizza and drinks http://www.facebook.com/events/174566376421391/

All I'm waiting on now is tie rod bushes from the UK, should have ordered them earlier damnit. Have painted a good deal of the floor pan, and ingested at least 6.2kg of ancient road debris, mostly through the eyes of course. Got a new horn, it's a Lucas high tone so a bit cheery but ah well. Jammed some cheap driving lights on, even used a relay, flash I know. They emit at least 3x as much light as the Lucas headlamps, which just get left on high beam, couldn't blind a possum. Also nos Marina front mud flaps to keep the mud out of the bottom of the guard. heater blower is no go, motor is getting current but not spinning, unsure how keen I am to get involved in 70s BL heater nightmare tbh

The Good The Bad & The Ugly From inspecting the car all the electrics worked, even the fender mirrors. The interior was mint minus a crack in the dash and the centre vent. Also a small hole in the drivers seat. I wasn’t a fan of the 1g-eu and it was leaking oil from every orifice, fixed to the auto box = a gradual 0-100. The exterior was fairly straight but the paint was showing its age. Stone chips and a few imperfections were apparent but none of this worried me. It was advertised as having no rust apart from some surface rust under the bonnet and 2 spots near the boot. I knew it would have more and boy I was right, yet I didn’t know how extreme till later down the track. A wheel well half filled with water was a bit of a giveaway and prodded around the boot for some clues. A few areas around the boot seal became apparent, but me being me haggled the price slightly instead of walking away. On The way home I also worked out the suspension all round was rooted as the previous owner had removed the springs for the images in the above post above. First Things First Replaced the windscreen Replaced rocker cover and manifold gaskets Add a sump bung washer to stop oil leaking And straight through WOF it flew. I was certain it would get failed on suspension, but some how it got through… so I carried on sailing the roads of Canterbury with some wicked body roll.

Try this again... Long story short life and dads junk got in the way lol, been mishing for the past year to get the house and garage sorted which is now done (shelving works a treat...in the storage form..) soo no excuses now!! gah.. me box is too big, had to get my trim on..whos awesome idea was it to put this lump in instead of a humble t50... Never-the-less shes in, bit of an angle or else i wont have room for the hoop but meh i just want to get it done and driving. Will weld some gussets/bracing to the box mounts and make it all flashy tomorrow!

I was in the shed for about a minute last night before I noticed a linkage rod on front carb had over-centred, so righted that and it seems to have full travel incl secondary's . So I'll test that on the way to work tomorrow!

Potential replacement belt arrived today so I whipped the stock one off to compare. New belt is 666mm long by 16.8mm wide with 30 degree side angle, looks pretty close, width is spot on. Will bang it on tomorrow and see how it fits.

not really it has to do with the linearity of the valve type and its flow coefficient. a thin bladed butterfly is really not linear at all since the thin blade doesn't really obstruct flow very much until its about 1/3 closed and at the other end you get small changes in butterfly angle making massive changes in flow area. Going to a smaller valve will mean the first third will have a more immediate impact on the flow but the profile of that effect wont actually be linear. hence why OEM 90% of throttles have bell crank throttle pulls to get a mostly linear pedal effect matched to the throttle sizing and valve coefficient #imbeingpedantichere

Sister obviously.

No pic update tonight. Looking for advice and opinions. I've managed to locate a gearbox in Auckland which is close enough for me to be willing to drive down and pick it up. It comes with everything from yoke to bell housing including throw out bearing and clutch lever but no clutch, pressure plate, or flywheel. So I'm at a bit of a cross roads. There seem to be two different options for how people adapt the RX-8 box to the V6. They both require the use of an adapter plate because there are no RWD boxes that bolt up the the V6 but I think I'll tackle that issue later on. For now I'm thinking about the flywheel and clutch situation. At the moment the motor I have is bolted to an auto box so I'm going to need to find a flywheel of some sort. One option is to use the rotary flywheel with a spacer adapter to take it from the single nut used on the rotary motor crank to the six bolts used on the V6. This is clairetoo's flywheel she did for this conversion. This option has the advantage of retaining the stock rotary clutch, pressure plate, and starter motor position and I already know where I can get the whole lot with minimal effort. The other option used by Alex in his Viva is to use a stock (or aftermarket) V6 flywheel with a machined spacer to bring it out to the correct position relative to the gearbox input shaft. I believe he used the V6 clutch and pressure plate which matched up the the rotary input splines. The complication of this method is that the starter needs machining to bring it in toward the flywheel center because the flywheel is 10mm smaller in diameter than the rotary one. Also I can't find a V6 flywheel anywhere but in a 626 in a pick-a-part in Auckland. Normally I'd be happy to go and pull it but I don't have an engine crane to pull the motor, and it's a long way to go. I'd be worried that I couldn't pull the motor in a day and then I'm stuck in Auckland overnight with a half pulled engine. So at the moment I'm leaning more toward the rotary flywheel because it keeps things as simple as possible and keeps the most stock parts on the car which is always a good idea if I ever needed to do maintenance. But there's one thing holding me back. I've read online that the rotary flywheels have a counterweight built in to balance the effect of the dorito wobbling around in the engine. I'm thinking though that putting that on a regular piston engine it will be totally out of balance and make a mess of everything. Does anyone know if this is the case? At the moment I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be an issue simply because Claire has already done it on her project. Finally, I'm thinking about building my own engine to gearbox adapter plate. I've looked at how much it would cost to import one from the UK and right now I'd rather have a go at making my own. I have access to a big milling machine for drilling the actual holes so I'm not too concerned with that aspect, but what I am not completely sure about is how I should go about measuring the positions of the holes as accurately as I'll need to to ensure a good mating between the two components. I have some ideas but I'd be keen to know your guys' suggestions. Phew! That's it. If you've made it this far and actually read it all then well done. I'd be only too keen to hear everyone's opinions. Chuck it all in here:

Plenty of time to browse tardme and pick up something cheap and sketchy @RevDWC then ride it once and decide to tinker with it with the intention of sorting some niggles then decide the rides next week and it ran fine so it should be fine mate.

Bit more cutting, bending and attempts at welding Good grind and paint/heat wrap will solve it Only one little leak that I can find! Need to get a throttle control that will fit with a disc brake lever in place, a late model Gyro park brake lever assembly and ignition now

Have they finished with all the building? Will the T be there?

So, motor drive is on the left, bike tyre sprocket on the right...solution: use a jack shaft. it all looks about right. Will fine tune alignment and machine up some collars to limit any horizontal movement.

Cheers fellas! My flatmate heads down to the naki regularly but isn't going for a while so just paid the man his $87 for shipping... And then he actually said he's coming to Auckland on Monday so can drop it off and refund me $40 and keep the rest to go towards his gas, so all is sorted Thanks though!

Wait..... wat

Updater. 1. Fuel pump. The one on the left is in the bin. The one on the right is in the boot. We now have reliable Bosch fuel pressure at 110psi at all throttle openings. New power supply and relay fitted also. I'm just finalising a mounting system and I'll take a pic for the next update. There are kits on the market but they are very spendy so have put something together myself. The original Lucas pump is actually a windscreen wiper motor. Needless to say it wasn't a great option from new. 2. Metering unit. After many many hours fettling, dicking about, trying things, trying other things I decided to rob a bank and buy this: Stuck it in, timed it. Available for sale for a limited time: Patented Tumeke injector bleed test bed © Also available Tumeke Remote Cranking / Gravity Weight System © Also reset and re-sprung throttle bodies, butchered a twin cable choke cable (if anyone has a spare I'd like it please), fixed the over-drive switch with some re-wiring and generally dicked about. Pretty close. Still needs a bit of timing / tuning but mobile and has been moved to home garage rather than storage garage so that I can begin cutting out rust for a WOF. The saga continues.

I decided to start from scratch with a tune file, I've fairly well hashed out the 0-4000rpm region in all load regions of the fuel map. Because you go through all of them all of the time when driving. But I've found it difficult to reach the higher rpm mid/low load areas (partially because you're never in them) and I never felt confident in the past that I had these accurately set.So for interests sake, I thought I would software limit the e-throttle angle so 100% on the pedal is only say 80% TPS or whatever. Then go do some "full throttle" runs, where I could get consistent and repeatable results to help dial in the fuel in those part throttle areas. However, the results really surprised me! I had to pull out so much throttle angle just to lose 10kpa of manifold pressure. It was a good exercise to complete as it felt like my accel enrichment has been relying on these load cells that havent really been dialled in too well. But found it very interesting how non linear the MAP vs TPS relationship is at higher RPM. This car has a factory Toyota Altezza E-throttle unit which from memory is 78mm at the butterfly so you can tell that it obviously causes very little restriction even when partially shut. I would expect a more linear TPS vs MAP relationship when using a smaller throttle body. In other news, its hilarious doing a full throttle run at 20% throttle, it takes a long time hahaha.

Since working down south at HPA I thought I'd start from scratch with a new tune file, my old one had lots of odds and ends in it from various experiements / adding and removing sensors etc. Looking at everything with a fresh set of eyes really showed how much a few things were garbage but I just assumed it was right when I didnt know much at the time or whatever. Like looking properly into how the cold start functions work it's now much better, starts without foot on the gas and doesnt zing the revs up when you start it. As well as that I'd never really played around with accell enrichment before, now it feels a lot nicer at high rpm when you give the throttle a stab. And I'll be ditching the staged injection as in my case it doesnt really add enough/anything to justify the added complexity to the fuel system, and the throttle response is worse when you're using it. I think to make it work as nicely as a single injector setup you really need a good wall wetting compensation model and two completely seperate tables for it for each injector. Whereas the Link only has a single table for accel enrichment settings, and an initial enrichment setting when secondary injectors come on. Which makes it impossible to account accurately for situations where you've got say 20% secondaries vs 90%. I think staged injection works well when your entire intake is hot, as it evaporates the fuel a lot quicker. But in my case when you've got a thermal isolator stopping engine heat soaking into the manifold you get a huge % of fuel ends up as wall wetting and you lose control of fueling and accel enrichment. I've now got about 3-4 sets of Altezza injectors though so I'm gonna flow bench them all and find the best matching set out of the lot. Will be interesting to see how much variation there is (or isnt) across that many of the same injector. Also just picking up this afternoon an Altezza engine in bits, so might throw it together and chuck it in the car to have a play around with exhaust side VVTI as well and see if that makes much difference compared to current setup. /Pointless Dave Rant over /It's never really over though

I'd always though the Gyro was a uniquely Honda idea, turns out it's pivot system is a British invention, which played a part in BSA's demise Ariel 3 by BSA Then Diahatsu had a go at it with there Hallo

Getting so close to wof-attempt time now, got windscreen squirters & fuel gauge going, chin spoiler on (+10 bhp) seats, door cards etc. Hopefully just re-attach the earth to the horn and a pair of tie-rod bushes (which I should really order) to go. Brakes work well with new fluid and various levels of abuse to free them up

Van update time! Been reasonably busy fiddling with it (and the van), tuned it up more, turns out the missus good tweezers are a good substitute for toyotas tamperproof mixture screw adjustment tool. hooked up the largely un-necessary manual choke, found the speedo cable randomly missing (lucky is just plain ke20 spec) so ordered an $11 replacement from thailand. managed to break the ancient aftermarket temp gauge and one of the front indicators due to incredibly fragile 70s plastic and general ineptitude, luckily I wanted an AC brand gauge and needed new parklight/indicator assemblies to go on the front spoiler anyways. Have ordered generic but kinda OS looking led ones. Got the hole in the passenger floor welded up, now i'm getting fussy and am going to grind out some old bog in the front valance and passenger outer sill behind the guard and weld that too. Missus and I gave it a quick blow over with some random purple for that coveted "one colour" stz, will suffice as a working paintjob until the body is straight enough for leyland black violet, as per coupe below. Also have found a u.s outfit that does a badass frazetta "the huntress" decal, which alone makes me keen to get it paintified. Been going a bit ott with the leyland stuff, I now even have a british leyland notepad (doesn't work in the rain obviously). Yes those are leyland-logo'ed valve caps, nothing worse than when your valve caps don't match your long-socks

Hey Team, dug out a heap of photos of my old Lambretta project. Warning - a lot of photos and wofting on from the last 4 years or so up to present day so I will split it up into a couple of posts. First off, much like my Range Rover project I blame my parents. Dad used to have a 180SS Vespa and travel all over the South Island on it. They then got me a brand spanking new Vespa PX200 for my 21st birthday which I still own. Any how, all their fault and then my mate Rob's - who let me have a hoon on his Lambretta one lunch time. I was sold, I needed one! So much more fun to ride than the fat bottom Vespa. The hunt was one! It took me a while to find an Italian built Lambretta, most for sale are the Indian ones from the 80s. I got this 1963 Lambretta LI125 Special from a chap on the shore who built it many years ago and really liked matt black spray paint... It had a few trick bits on it and went pretty well. It had a pretty spicy Ralph Saxelby RS175 small block kit on it, ported barrel, suzi piston, snazzy AF crank, 30mm Delorto carb and a clubman exhaust. It was dyno'd around 15.5hp and a lot of fun around town but only really made power high in the rev range, not so good for long distance hoons. Any way, time for some photos. Chronological order up until present day. As I got it, naff GT badge and a lot of mat black paint. Nice Yamaha R1 shock on the rear and the old RS small block. It used a lot of gas but made a great sound. The small tank was soon swapped out for a larger long range tank in preparation for a 4 day 1600km scooter rally (race). Looking back, kind of dug this look. Tyre paint helped! Scoot all prepped for rally. We road from Auckland up to Cape Reinga in back over 4 days. Around 20ish scoots in teams of four and averaged 400kms a day. A few road side repairs and tunes along the way. Clutch cable change at the Cape Reinga 90mile beach run with open carbs... Side panels not wanting to stay on at 100clicks... Any way scoot went great over the four days. Used a heap of 2stroke oil at 4%... My first DGR ride, good fun but a really heavy race clutch and slow a ride was hard work! Next years scooter Rally on my mind. Time for face lift and the need to be faster! Time for a re build that ended up getting really out of hand and still in the process today... To be continued tomorrow...

After spying a tidy one of these a few months back I have been jonesing to have my own one. The 80's styling, watercooled 2-stroke and foot operated V-TACS system make for a sweet package. One of my regular searches turned this one up for a really cheap price so I couldn't resist. Seller said it has sat in storage for a long time, the latest rego sticker is 1991, done 2098 k's in total and is quite tidy under the filth Chucked a battery on it and the indicators, oil light, brake light and temp gauge work. Power isn't getting to the horn, headlights or starter switch so will check further once I get a diagram. Engine turns a bit but there is a some resistance so will pull the cylinder and check the piston, rings etc Just going to clean it up and try and get it running at this point. Will take some better pics soon.

Please don't ban me for RB, figured I'd start a build thread for my latest daily driver/project vehicle. She's a 1988 VL Royale. Like the VL GTS' the Royale's were a New Zealand only model, essentially a run out of the remaining Calais parts. Unfortuantely they didn't get the pop up headlamps but they got the Calais tail lights and steering wheels plus luxury extras such as cruise control, power windows and electric mirrors. Royale's were either RB20E or RB30E with ML4 automatic transimssions and GM3 or GN9 open diffs with drum brakes. I picked this up off Trademe after missing out on it a few months ago due to lack of funds. It was listed on Monday morning, I called the seller in the afternoon and then took Tuesday off work and drove down to Timaru for a look on Tuesday morning. An hour and a half and one terrifyingly fast test drive later I'd put a deposit on it. I'd been on the hunt for a tidy VL for the past few months and while a tidy example of a model with limited build numbers, with a manual transmission and the extra bonus of two tone paint ticked all my boxes, the real kicker for me was this: an A8 RB30ET factory turbocharged engine. The engine was put in a couple of owners before me and the car has been converted to manual with a 30E gearbox and driveshaft. It's still running the original diff and drum brakes but has had factory turbo front discs, calipers and master cylinder/booster fitted. I'm still working through the car and making a list of what needs to be done and then I'll book it in for a cert inspection. Bit of a daunting process as I've never done it before but mega excited to get this thing street legal!

You need this signwriting on the van... lol

Cheers! Am looking forward to bewildering the general public and concerning parents once again with hilarious underdog jalopy

Father's day, not really sure what the plans are, if I can swing it I'll be there.

they do

Sorry guys I haven't looked at the car tbh. I'm in the UK with my dad at the moment so injuatbleft it alone. I will put an update up as soon as I back and work out what it is. Cheers for everyones help so far.

Disconnecting the GPS on one was pretty much my next thought. A sorry and unloved GN there at the moment. That, or call it a training exercise.

Lay off the taranaki thunder bizzo.

Shit! This is tonight! I'm sorry people but I can't make it, double booked myself. I'll head along to the rover car Club meet on Sunday though. @moparmuppet I assume it's at the Pigeon Valley steam museum? I'm always keen to hang out in your sheds and talk shit.

This is true (maybe an issue on the old pukekohe back straight?) my 1800 civic will be limited to around 200kph top speed when i install the close ratio gear kit next week. I have not needed to use 5th at Hampton on the stock gearing Shouldn't be too much of a hindrance because not many horsepowers and could always run a 610 x 16 tyre to get a bit more legs.

Or need a higher top speed than 196k's I think I've accidentally built a good n/a grip racing car instead of drift

Pinto. Then when you reach you fishing spot you throw it over the side to stop you drifting awsy.

No heads up required. It's a recurring event that takes place every month, always on the last Sunday of each month. There are usually some Oldschool members present so drop in and say Hi. https://www.protectainsurance.co.nz/news-and-events/caffeine-and-classics

Man, i've been flat out at home and at work this month with general life mayhem. Haven't had much time in the shed at all. Did manage to get some paint on the swingarm though. so last night i thought i'd put the rear end back together - starting to look like a bike again! Hopefully sort the front end out this week sometime, then i can torque everything up and move on to the brakes and electrics.

So. What's up with the above pic? Well long story short I got annoyed at how loud the fuel pump was mounted hard to the chassis. So made the decision to go in tank. Was not as easy as I hoped as I didn't want to weld the tank, and due to very short time constraint (I had planned on taking crown wagon to hanmer, but my warrant man pointed out excessive play in the drive shaft yoke, which is a problem I have had before and can become terminal on a road trip) So anyway parts turned up from the states on the Thursday a week before heading off for Hanmer, and with the glorious help of Steelies and his understanding of what issues we had to overcome, got this shit sorted. 1 week later and car is in line at the ferry ready for the trip. 1100km later and mission accomplished. Only drama with the car was me demoing the exhaust on the off road trip on bridges up to fowler hutt. So its back up on axle stands once I get to the lock up again, remove exhaust and fix what ever leaks and issues. Then..... its pretty much done. Just a decent clean, removing the cb radio, and mounting of the monsoons and hopefully within a month it will be for sale. Looking for 8k certed with wheels etc. Spread the word. Will get better pics once its back together and cleaned.

Now for the expensive part! All happening around 2 months before the next scooter rally. Nothing like a deadline to get stuff done... Frame stripped, some extra support welded on known weak points and then off to HPC This was the start of a lot of online shopping and spending money at HPCoatings... Also sleepless nights trying to decided on colour ways for it. I went for a strange old Alfa Romeo GTV colour called Yellow Ochre or AR112. Still a bit unsure as to why I chose this colour after all, oh well it is certainly different. Pretty sure the paint shop also tinted it a bit differently... Panels stripped ready for the paint to go down Expensive bits coming in thick and fast, new big block engine casings, fancy front shocks, digital speedo with fuel sensor, rev counter and cylinder head temp sensor, 30mm Mikuni TMX carb. Time for the engine build. I couldn't have done this with out the help of my mates. A mate Ben spent many late nights helping me out with this build and has an amazing attention to detail when it comes to building anything, especially 2strokes! Great workshop too... I went a bit overboard on this but aim was to make a fast reliable scoot. I went with a kit AFrayspeed TS1 225 kit, mild porting, high comp cylinder head, larger crank, clubman exhaust, AF touring clutch with race springs etc. Side casing going together New 52mm crank installed Parts coming back from the painter in my interesting new colour... To top off my indecisive paint choice I went with this slate blue colour for the rest of the components... Front end going together, disc brake and the new shocks Engine closed up and in the frame Glove box, long range tank, carb and rear guard going on All new cabling and electrics BGM clubman exhaust fitted Rob's bike also getting a TS1 kit and a bunch of go fast bits at the same time. I think all four from the team had their bikes in pieces at this stage First ride! Jetting not 100% but it went awesome! Off to get dyno'd shortly. Scooter rally was only a few days away. What better way to break in a new 2-stroke than 1600km at full throttle? To be continued...

This wee project started with my son having a hoon on a mates PS4 racing game and loving it, but he was pretty shit at using the controller. Got the seat for $1 on trademe. $1 reserve win. The Drink Drive 2000. patent pending.

Oil pump Perform throttle cable inspection and adjustment. Remove the R, L body cover. With the throttle grip fully open, it is fine if the alignment mark of the oil pump position and the control lever are in agreement or within the range of 1 mm on the throttle opening side. Start the engine, open the throttle grip slightly from the idling state, and confirm that the control lever operates almost at the same time as the engine speed increases. For adjustment, loosen the lock nut of the control cable, and adjust it by turning the adjustment nut. Do not adjust the alignment mark of the control lever to the closing side of the body alignment mark. The discharge amount of the oil decreases and adversely affects the engine. Even if it is adjusted to about 1 mm to the opening side, there is no hindrance to the engine. When the synchronization is bad, the following phenomenon appears. When the opening degree of the oil pump lever is too large. White smoke or start failure · When the opening degree of the oil pump lever is small, Piston stop.

Well the lord taketh away, and the lord hooketh it up. Scored 2x complete 4k engines locally today for the princely sum of $200, one has a reco-ed head, arp bolts etc and flogged rings, the other went hard for what it was. Good score, came with all accessories, manifolds mounts clutches etc

Cheers for the link, they don't look too bad at all really, will keep them as an option for sure/buy them anyway cause I'm sure I'll find a use some time. The Stage6 I've got is a Pro/Replica, it was for a Minarelli but I had it cut and welded for my original Frankenstein AZ project. Nice pipe, high RPM powerband though and the real problem is I had it set up for a naked frame and now it fouls the Let's plastics a bit. I'm watching a full set up on Yahoo, with the little rack and the indicators and all, if it goes cheap enough I will get my bud to whack a sneaky bid on it. I'll likely end up with an LED lightbar tucked under the front deck too. Tipped the hydrochloric acid out of my pipe just before, flushed it out with the hose then managed to burn a bit more carbon out too Was just starting to cooch at that point, added a stream of compressed air and it really took off! Pipe is pretty much as clear as I can get it, obviously as soon as I can change to something better I will be! Result: Now time to keep tidying it up a bit and start on the bodywork, need to save a bit more $$ before I can really get stuck into it though as I need to get plastics shipped from Japan.

Instead of sleeping last night I spent way too long sharning with the owner of a small performance garage in Japan that specialises in crazy power Gyros and Dios along with the odd Kei car. Super helpful guy to talk to, he was amazed at someone playing with a Gyro in NZ. Thanks to some advice from him I scoured Yahoo and UpGarage Riders for some specific bits and pieces, a few messages with a friend of mine in Japan and there ordered, paid for and soon to be delivered to him to be on-sent to me... That's enough about that for now though, got to keep a few surprises for later! Pic-less updates suck, so check out these suave mofos

Had a bit of spare time so had a play with the beat. I wired up a relay for the 12V feed for the DC CDI and cut the holes for the heat vents

Small update Got a Nardi deep corn wheel through Moonlight racing to help with leg room. Then fitted the rear bumper and some friends talked me into doing a livery on the car instead of painting it all black. Took it on gumboot rally the next day so dont have any pics of it without the sponsor stickers on it.