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update time. out in the daylight and re assembled. with a new sticker

Will bring the Land Cruiser and also @mo999. Be interesting to see how busy the carpark is tonight. Could always use my PTO winch to drag the offending cars out of the way.

Update time. Vivadom daily driving has been pretty damn good. Especially when 2 months ago I finally got around to changing the voltage settings for the wideband O2 sensor on the ECU so that the ECU would get the same reading as what the Innovate gauge shows. It’s a common setting fault and took all of 5 mins to get them to read almost the same. What does this mean though? Well for ages the ECU and hence the tuning program, Tunerstudio, have been receiving a ‘leaner’ voltage than what the engine was really at. This meant that in tuning the final outcome was always a bit too rich. When the ECU was in closed loop ego control it would take my preferred AFR table settings and adjust to what it thought was correct.. which was not. With the ECU now getting the proper signal we re-tuned the car on the way back from Blenheim to Motueka. It was too rich everywhere and after not long was leaned right back. Driveability remained the same, but tail pipe smells improved J I have not gone super lean, sticking to around 15~15.5 on cruise. We filled the tank back up in Motueka and the cars economy had improved returning 32 mpg (8.8l/100km). There is still room to improve but happy with that. So this was all good and everything was fine and dandy for the last month or two. Then the other day while leaving town I started to hear a teeny whistle sound. I just put it down to the throttle body making the sound because sometimes it does just this. The other thing I thought it might be was the idle control valve. I didn’t look into it any further. However, over the next few drives I noticed it was hunting a little at really light throttle openings, like slowly accelerating away from standstill. Hmmmm?... Then that whistle again, this time when I got home one evening. I popped the bonnet and listened around. I couldn’t pinpoint it but when I ran my fingers around the back underside of the plenum box where one of the runners joins I heard the note change. An air leak. Bugger. I looked with a torch and could just make out a little crack on one of the welds I had machined down…hmmmm. Bugger. Oh well.. I was planning on doing a modification to the throttle body pulley so why not sort it out now. I drove the car into the Viva hospital and started surgery. It didn’t take long to pop the bonnet off, unplug all the bits needed and start removing the inlet manifold. The trickiest bit was the return fuel line which was stuck to the pipe and hard to get too. One hour after having parked the car in the surgery and picking up the scalpels I had the manifold on the bench. I worked out pretty quickly why the manifold had cracked where it had. To explain how we need to pop into the police box and go back in time…. Maybe not that far though. Lets try again… Nup.. still too far. This time… Errrgggg. Again… Oh dear lordy..one more time… Ahh… that’s better! Righto..now remember this original plenum chamber? Made from some bent up 2.5mm alloy sheet. It had buckled diagonally when welded and I had then set up the runner heights to suit when I tacked them in place. I had to try and straighten it so it sealed correctly (using our house as a press).. It all worked out OK at the time because it flexed enough to seal when bolted down to the runner flanges. However a few years later I had that backfire and blew the lid off. I then fabricated a new plenum from 5mm alloy sheet and its was nice and straight.. It did not flex. This is how I think the crack happened. I decided I was not going to try to weld up this little crack because I knew the heat would warp the runner flange and nothing will seal. So I bought some posh looking South African epoxy putty, a bit like minute mend or quicksteel. It requires a lot more mixing than the others but sticks really well and smoothed off nicely. Kevin kept guard while it set. While the inlet was off I did some measuring and worked out the dimensions for a new offset/eccentric throttle body pulley. Then I machined down a lump of alloy bar and ended up with a new pulley. I got to use our new mill with a 2mm slot drill ( I could have used a hacksaw and file but this was more fun..) The new pulley effectively gears down the cable pull at the start of the throttle pedal travel and speeds up at the end making for a much easier off idle transition. You can see the difference between old and new here.. No more kangarooing down the road for people not used to this engine with its lightweight flywheel etc. I refitted the inlet manifold, plugged everything in and tried it out. WAY BETTER!!! Went for a drive and its so much easier to ease the throttle on out of corners or from standstill. Much more user friendly and I now wish I’d done this mod ages ago!

I tried out its towing capabilities today...

Got some quick stuff done tonight. I got a hold of some 2mm sheet steel to make up the inner frame rails so I marked that out and cut it up ready for folding in the brake at school tomorrow. I started by making up some test profiles to find out the measurements I was going to need in order to get the two skins fitting snugly over each other. The first one was too small, But the second one was just right. I then used the measurements off the second one to mark and cut out the blanks for the channels. This 2mm stuff is a pain to cut with anything but the big bench guillotine. The tin snips will just do it but it sucks when you've got girly grip strength. I also quickly knocked up a couple of dies to press in the "crumple zone" corrugation in the inner frame rail. It's pretty quick and dirty but it will do the job and it's going to be hidden so I'm not too worried if it doesn't yield a completely pristine result. Confirmed with the truck company the Mazda should be here Thursday because their truck has been in for maintenance. Looking forward to it.

I successfully un seized an engine today using brake fluid, it was stuck like chuck, its happily running now,

Jim's ringadinging

Oops, missed a bit. Past couple of weeks I've cleaned up and put the interior back in. Cat helped - these had been out for about 10 seconds... Did I show you guys this? It's from Speedhut , they have a super cool gauge-face designer, can upload images and text and everything. Have a play, it's fun. Fitted in the hole pretty well (this was just a mock-up, fitted better after some more trimming inside and some sikaflex to fill the gap around the outside. It's tidier than it sounds, promise). Lights up all purdy-like too

Cool stuff happened this week A local stainless steel fabricator has been busy restoring the exterior door trims for me, I got them back today and he has done a great job. As I mentioned in an earlier post the trims were full of holes where the trim had been pop riveted to the doors, all the holes have been repaired and they look great. Here is a comparison picture. I have also finished repairing the rear door cards. Very happy with how they turned out

It goez Nungarattlenunga nunga rattle rettle Whiiizzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Burrrrrr. (With a huge cloud of thick black smoke, as some hot chick in a suzuki swift with her window down at the lights found out lol) Actually goes hard for what it is.

Who knew all your previous Google searches would be relevant in another context? I think the big issue here is why no bug catcher?

If all goes right I'll be there in the rover.. first meeting.

Sorted the main issues. Speedo is now very intermittent, sometimes it decides Im doing 20kp/h regardless of if Im moving or not, sometimes its pinned off the end of the gauge. Ive tested the hub and the gauge and both are fine so I suspect the cable is broken somewhere. Also the fuel gauge doesn't work, not the end of the world. But its out of the shed: And Ive riden it to work everyday so far this week Much faster than taking the car as I can cut through a pedestrian gate to get to the workshop and shave about 1km off the trip. Takes 2min from my driveway on the way, and 3min on the way home.

lemon party golden shower squirt munro, geyser wilhelm, donald pump, gush gush, gone fistin', dirty hose, pump in the trunk

October 6-8 in whangamata Anyone with their British steel think they'll be going along?

Folding up the channels had some mixed results. I got the first folded up with a bit of fiddling around but it turned out good. The second must have been not quite on the line or something but it came out slightly to big to fit properly. This is both channels fitted into the outer skins. This photo sort of shows how the second one doesn't fit nearly as good as it needs to. My plan is to try to heat up the fold and flatten it back out so I can refold it in the right place. Failing that, I have more steel so I can always just make another one. I'd rather not waste it though. Sorry for the small update. The Mazda should turn up tomorrow. Should be fun.

just put your competitors one on there with one of those 'hows my driving' stickers

You need to build a lawnmower trailer for towing behind gyro. Or a weedsprayer. make it a business vehicle

Birthday parcel from Japan! Good mix of new and decent second hand parts New genuine Honda carry tray thing, HVFactory ignition trim, AF35 speedo cable, Daytona CVT stuff that I got just cause it was only ¥400 with free Amazon prime shipping lol. And also a few decent condition second hand parts, late model handle bars, front carrier rack, trim panel and genuine Zoomer lights. Once I'm not too scared to even plug my Tig in I've got a few ideas on what to do with the bars etc... Also these just arrived for the exhaust Sightly oversized at 27.5mm I'd, but should flow well at least lol

Stumbled across this site, has some interesting custom gyros http://mikip.net/gyro/custom/custom.html

A Beat down south if anyone is interested, $650 ono http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/scooters/auction-1398620819.htm

All the NOS M series headgaskets you can find?

Can you turn up to cert someones car on this please Clint. Then can you post an account of their reactions for my amusement?

Been busy over the last few months A12 out and A14 in! Ended up building a fresh A14 9.8:1 Compression (pistons flycut) Cam with 2500rpm-6500rpm range 9.4kg Flywheel (2kg lighter than standard) Firmer Kelford valve springs Ported and polished head & manifold to my ability Twin 40mm dellortos & extractors New alloy radiator on its way, also have to install the e15 electronic dizzy at some point down the track. Here is a quick video of a small test start with single carb when I first installed the engine... Pics following Pistons flycut for clearance H89 head, water jackets tapped and grub screw inserted. Also drilled a small hole to locate a roll pin from the dellorto manifold to keep it alinged Discussion

Fitted all the radiator gubbins back in and filled it up with coolant. Thought I ought to let the old girl put her face on. She's a pretty lady! Dropped her down on the ground to check wheel clearance. Sits thusly: Not insurmountable and almost exactly what I expected, but the bigger issue is that the now-spaced wheels rub the back of the arch on lock, didn't think about that. Hum. Might have to get some less dishy wheels on the front. Anyone got any 13x6 equips? Oh, filled it up with coolant and brought it up to temp to start getting air out. First time I've been able to get some warmth in this engine, seems to run pretty well! Then I ran out of fuel, welp.

@Truenotch I can't remember the thread width, want to say m10? Tons of these on ebay, really cheap too. Reasonably solid, minimal distortion with a 4age hanging off them at 45deg.

from memory the burgerfuel dudes wete going to park their ute long way across parks for us so that'll free up a couple. I reckon if we all brung a cone (no not the sweetest geebah puhuhu) road cones n corner it all off

we got the trusses made with a reverse kingpin so the floor bit in the middle would have more space. I hope to fill it with car parts.

I think your order is on the same slow boat from Germany as mine @Shakotom, dunno WTF is going on, normally it's sub 10 days! Have got a stack of jets en-route to @MopedNZ now, so hopefully he can at least get a healthier amount of fuel flowing for the ride. The middy's leave was denied so I'm out, anyone want to do a park up at/ride from caffeine and classics next month?

I also have a bike with a variator and a belt that needs a new belt/weights which are currently AWOL from Germany. also I'm out of the country between now and Saturday night. No worries though

See previous two posts above for updates!

have hopefully fixed the worn out gas sender problem.I have no idea how much gas I have, but the old gauge don't work anyway, I can just look down the filler neck and at least I can full'er up now.And then as Sunday drew to a end...dells seem to fit. oh man those manifolds are right bastards! hooked up the throttle wire.made brumbrum noises.just need to finish wiring and install electric fuel pump, K&Ns should be here at the end of the month.So questions,1; I have a Red and a Blue wire coming from my 009 distributor, is one positive and one negative on the coil?2; loom has two large red wires in the engine bay, one goes to the Alternator?, and one goes to the starter?, and then I think one goes from the alt to the starter? my loom had no instructions, and because I've gone with alt from genny, this has changed a few things??Also how the hell do you keep the fusebox in place? I bought that little clip but I'm buggered if I can make that work!trying to avoid using a washer and wood screw like it use to have.

This weekend, @Alistair bowled around and helped me with a lush polishing effort on the painted surfaces of the 944. Here's a few shots of the result, taken under some neat skies on Sunday evening. 1991 Porsche 944 S2-179-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1991 Porsche 944 S2-96-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1991 Porsche 944 S2-172-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1991 Porsche 944 S2-141-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1991 Porsche 944 S2-170-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Some of the S2 differences: 1991 Porsche 944 S2-129 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Turbo nosecone, a big upgrade over the old 924-style front my 8v car had on it. 1991 Porsche 944 S2-92-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr "Bridge" spoiler in place of the squishy rubber ducktail thing, and the under spoiler/bum flap thing. 1991 Porsche 944 S2-47 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1991 Porsche 944 S2-106 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 16x7 and 8" "Design 90" wheels and Brembo 4-pot clappers on 300mm rotors at either end. 1991 Porsche 944 S2-116 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1991 Porsche 944 S2-119 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 3-litre 16 valve 4-banger engine. A shade under 220hp, lol redline of 6500rpm but sooooo torquey. Actually a very smooth thing to drive, with twin balance shafts and all that jazz. 1991 Porsche 944 S2-189-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Delicious pop-up headlights, I can watch these go up and down all day. 1991 Porsche 944 S2-108 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1991 Porsche 944 S2-68 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1991 Porsche 944 S2-80 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1991 Porsche 944 S2-82 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 1991 Porsche 944 S2-112-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Interior things and stuff. Headunit will be switched out shortly for something not silver, and Bluetooth capable.

I had a closer look at the gauges of the skins that make up the rail and I found that the outer rail is 1mm, as is the panel I've made, but the inner skin is 2mm which I have none of to make a replacement. So I can't make any major structural additions today but I can work on making all the details on the outer skin right. I started by getting the sway bar mount in position. I measured the positions of the holes on the original and transferred them to the new panel. This is the mount mocked up in position. And here are the holes in position: I also went and added the "crumple zone" relief cutouts using a step drill, slitting disk, and flap wheel on the grinder. They came out looking really nice methinks. I then went ahead and put in the holes for the crush tubes in the bumper mount brace panel, as well as brand new M8 riv-nuts for the actuall bumper mounts. I measured it all and it should be in the right place but I'll soon find out. Next job was to turn up some crush tubes for the sway bar mounts. I found some round stock and started it in the lathe. The factory tubes are 45mm x 11mm ID x 15mm OD. If that was good enough for Uncle Henry then it's good enough for me. I got the whole length down to 15mm OD first Then cut off four sections slightly overlength Then got them faced to length and drilled one before I got kicked off the lathe. (this is just left on the drill bit to take the photo, it was clamped in properly while I drilled it out) I'll finish the other tubes off tomorrow. That's all for today. I'll try to get some stuff up Tuesday or Wednesday when the car turns up.

Not even VN B cast heads. This thing is going to be off the hook bogan boat.

Couple of Pics I took today Yeah I messed the numbers up didn't see them till I got home : must go back & get the '76 Until I get some trim this IS it's good side Gorge'eous ?

we had a roof shout and it was fucking great. approx 11 thousand people turned up and had great times. this is the last people standing. 2017-08-20_12-29-17 by sheepers, on Flickr

Scored a parts car for the wagon,a series 1 1968 ms55.the interior is in far better condition than the wagon so dash,front buckets and door cards will be going in the wagon,might keep some glass and the diff.sad sight ,always destined for the crusher but atleast i can save some bits

Yes...yes...hell yes!!!! Boom!!!

Continuing with the brakes I pulled the caliper and line off tonight, caliper was pretty well stuck, neither the slides nor the piston wanted to move.So yeah that required a bit more investigationDoesn't look too bad right?So how about after applying a bit of compressed air into the bleed nipple hole?Mmmmm tasty!Believe it or not I'd already given everything a good squirt of brake cleaner and a wipe down with a rag.Gave everything a damn good clean, used some 2000 paper to clean the bore and piston etc, seals were in remarkably decent condition so I lubed it up and reassembledAlso cleaned out the master cylinder and flushed the line, refitted it all and bled it up.Feels like it's working nicely now, decent pressure etc.The Dio line is way too short for the Gyro though, but I've got a brand new 1100mm braided SS line that was too long for the Let's, which should work out nicely!

In a non Gyro related update, I picked up a mower from a local hoarder type character, think backyard full of mowers, weedeaters, pocket bikes, coin operated kiddy rides and just all sorts of assorted junk he's dragged home from who knows where. Anyway while haggling with him over the mower Aaron excited came up and asked about an old generator he'd spotted in the corner. So yeah he's found a Chinese generator with a 6.5hp Chonda engine on it, it's meant to run well but doesn't make electricity, we're trying to find out if the crank output shaft is the same on a generator as it is on a straight out stationary engine? If so for $30 he's got a 6.5hp to replace the 3.5hp on the death kart. Sharn

More fiddly stuff while the car is away, I made up a batch of my re-manufactured / homegrown trim clips for the exterior door trims. Cut out a bunch of small pieces from thin stainless plate Drilled holes for the fasteners Shaped them all up Tapped a thread and installed the fastners 12 should be enough to replace the missing clips assuming I don't break any more re-installing the trims on the car.

Here's the "temporary" 150mm inlet that's made from 1mm aluminium and rivets. This will stay in there until I can be bothered remaking the whole front plate and collar from 2mm so it can be welded. And the bonnet is now a blank canvas:

While the car is away having the panel work sorted out I decided to get started fixing up the interior door panels. I started with the left rear, this one actually as a corner broken off completely along with a couple of trim clip locations that can no longer retain the trim clips. I have built a few small boats in the past (you can see them in the background of a few pictures in this thread) and have plenty of fiberglass off cuts in a box in the shed. I decided this would be the perfect material for fixing the door cards so began by cleaning up the areas to be repaired with a sanding disc. Then I cut out a whole lot of little patches from fiberglass cloth so I can build up the damaged areas. Next I set about rebuilding the damaged areas with fiberglass cloth and resin. Finally I put two layers of glass cloth right along the bottom but by this stage my gloves were well coated in resin and I didn't dare try to pick up my phone to take a photo. You can see the strips of glass cloth that I used in the photo above (top left of the pic). I then sandwiched the whole lot together and allowed it all to cure overnight. And the next day it is all cured. Only 3 more to do.

Ok so this weekend i set out to get car ready for caffeine n classics which unfortunately didnt happen. I knew i had to grease up the ball joints so i started on doing that but found that most of the steering ball joint boots were either split or missing completely. 3 were rebuilt a few years ago but had no been on road to drive up mileage. I suspect more may need doing. So i started by removing it all to replace the stuffed boots. Put it all back together and greased up every nipple. Steering felt a little stiff when going for a drive will re grease it all again and double check everything again. Otherwise felt good. Treated her to some whitewalls ! I checked out daves sweet photo album of 100s of cars he has white walled while he got stuck in! He had never done one of these nor did he see one when he went to Japan recently lol. Gave it a wash at wash world on the way home. Everything was going ok. Sunday morning got up early put car in driveway n let her heat. The brakes were feeling wierd. I popped the bonnet to check the brake master and it was completely empty! I popped my head under car and the right rear drum and tire was covered in fluid! Buggar! Trusty tools of the trade! I know the front left has been rebuilt not so long ago too so im thinking i should wip the remaining 2 out and have them done because no doubt they will be in same condition. The prince only has 1 brake line for all 4 wheels so if this was to fail while driving id loose all brakes! Sketchy! So she sits up on all 4 axle stands again haha.

After a couple of solid evenings work stuff is starting to look more serious. All the trim is off the sides of the car, door handles are removed and it's nearly ready to head off to the panel and paint shop to have the rust in the rear guard fixed and a whole lot of little stuff tidied up here and there. The car looks quite different with the 1/4 glass removed. There are quite a few trim clips that are either missing or not suitable for re-use. You can't buy these so I set about making my own replacements. The factory clip is on the right and my effort on the left. And installed in one of the door trims. These will work nicely but I need to make about 15 of them so will be moving to mass production this weekend.

Okay, long overdue an update. Rust patches were sorted by the inimitable @Goat several months ago, sweet! Gearbox mount came together a couple of weeks ago, pretty pleased with it: Exhaust got some love last weekend. Please excuse horribad welds, I'm still new. Got a sweet new shirt: Also got a full set of nolathane bushes. Here's me downstairs bush collection: Rad mountings are also sorted, hurrah! Waiting on a brake kit from MRP, excite. Getting there now!

Put in the lay gear and input shaft. Used a bit of weed eater cord to lift the lay gear into plus once the mainshaft installed so the layshaft can be slid in. Also used alloy input shaft housing and rear mainshaft bearing carrier.

Finally assembled the gearbox last weekend. Here's the main case ready for the internals

I pulled the springs and shocks out the back with the car on axle stands and the diff head supported by the jack with some rags on it to reduce noise from there. After bouncing it around a bit and using the mechanics stethoscope/screwdriver I decided that the noise was from the lower left rod end. I already cleaned and greased the rod end and bolt on the top left. I did the lower one too and it didn't fix it. I think the cause might have been the lower arm was adjusted a few mm too long so when it moved it got way more force on it. I slacked off the adjusters on that arm and adjusted it until it was in the middle of the loose area. I also thought about putting some of the friction modifier I had into the LSD to try shut up the chatter, but it was already at overflowing and the oil looked milky so I want to change the diff oil soon as. I'm not sure how the diff oil gets water in it.... it's been sitting in the garage for 2 years. It very rarely gets wet... Where does the water come from????? Well, I took it for a test drive up to Kaitoke and the noise appears to be gone... for now.