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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/28/17 in all areas

  1. It's finally time for the first Auckland Scooter ride! so grab your junk out from the back of the shed, get it running/remove the baffles and raid your local op shop for a denim vest!SAVE THE DATE! Sunday, August 27th. A decent jaunt around central Auckland, starting in Ponsonby with a coffee and including a cruise down Queen Street, Mission Bay and the Auckland Domain, ending back in Ponsonby for a refreshing beverage. This event is hosted by Moped NZ, the ride will be lead by Mopeds, However, the event itself is open to all mopeds/scooters/small bikes. The older, and more chopped up, obscure and brappy; the better. However, new and standard mopeds/scooters/small bikes are welcome and encouraged. Speeds won't exceed 60kph, there will be several stops along the 40+km route for photo/maintenance opportunities. Safety is paramount and your responsibility, so just make sure you've got your wits about you, Helmet, 'current rego' etc etc. ride at your own risk-we are not responsible for you- you are your own problem. The ride starts at Service Denim 208 Ponsonby road MOREINFOADDEDHERE: START TIMES. Plan on meeting at Service Denim at 1030am for a departure time of around 11. For the true Aucklander Experience there is a coffee shop (Rocket Espresso) right by our start point and you should have enough time to grab a extra skinny decaffee soy mochalatte to sip on whilst leaning against your moped and intimidating passerbys PARKING. For those of you who are coming from out of town or don't trust their scooters enough to ride in, there is free car parking on the side roads in the surrounding area off Ponsonby road and there should be enough space for trailers ect. Find somewhere to park, unload and ride up to Service Denim. We will be meeting out front of service denim. There's two car parks and hopefully one will free up for us to meet in/otherwise just pile on the footpath. Finish point will be in about the same place. GAS. There are a couple of gas stations close to the start point. It's about a 40km loop planned so make sure you have adequate fuel. Mobil 565 Karangahape Road Z 5-9 Williamson Avenue BP 47 Jervois Road And there's a few on the route if need be. DURATION: When we did a run through the other day it took about 3 hours to do the loop. Including stopping for lunch and sharns on the way. Plan on stopping for lunch -fish and chips ect at mission bay. Link to Facebook event : https://www.facebook.com/events/1881486295446572/?ti=icl Pretty much just a low key disturbance of Auckland City and a chance to meet some others and try get the scene in AKL going Spread the word, any questions, just ask here, or ask @Shakotom, @GuyWithAviators Or @MopedNZ.
    7 points
  2. Ground back the welds and gave it a little bit of a polish with a skotch-brite on an orbital sander. You can see a pressing mark jut to the right of the fixing bolt from the straightening in this picture but I prefer black bumpers so it's nothing a skim of bog and paint won't fix. Finished them both up and offered it up to the car. I threw the spotties on there because they were lying around and I wanted to see how they looked. I'm not so keen on them so they'll be getting the old spanish archer for the final look.
    7 points
  3. So the only option was to arsehole the whole lot and start again. Banished to the wall of offerings And a pretty new one from palmside I think I'll call it there for tonight. We'll pick up the tale again sometime tomorrow.
    6 points
  4. Got bored at school so I used the laser cutter to make up a nice center cap for the steering wheel I bought off a great bloke with a couple of escorts of his own. The boss and wheel had no center cap of their own and you could see right down to the main shaft nut. I though this was a nice neat solution.
    6 points
  5. In other news, my manifold came back! It's much shinier now than when it left. Here it is in the jig we made up to hold it in the mill in the school workshop. Not to bad for a quick 30 minute jobbie. And this is it after starting to milling it flat. The cutter is typical school quality after being used by a bunch a 13 year olds (that is to say it's pretty fucked) so it wasn't the best finish. That said it's nothing that can't be cleaned up on a surface plate with some fine grit sand paper. Unfortunately the mill wasn't big enough so it was put on hold for a while until I could get access to a bigger mill at a local engineering shop. So for now that's extent of the manifold story.
    6 points
  6. The next stage was the beginning of a very interesting and ultimately expensive experiment. My dad has owned a mk1 escort for close to 20 years (it could probably have a thread of its own). It's running a 1600 with a twin 28/36 downdraft weber setup on a custom manifold he made up out of exhaust tubing. The carbs run rich as all hell due to never being tuned properly and the but if one carb is good then two's gotta be better right? Not to mention that sweet induction noise of the downdrafts. So he suggested that I do a similar setup for the pinto. Downdrafts are much cheaper and easier to source that sideys after all. So I decided that I'd run the slightly larger 32/36 webers on a manifold with a similar design. But in cast aluminium. We'd read about using 3D printers to make blanks for lost wax casting metal components and as an experiment we decided to give it a go. So I set to designing a manifold on sketchup over the course of many days. Turned out something like this. Then after finally wrapping my head around how to get it all to work I sent the file to a classmate and he printed it out on his homemade 3D printer. I had to split it into four separate parts to fit it in the printer then glued them all together and put some model filler putty to smooth it all out. The design almost exactly copies the exhaust tubing version my dad made. I didn't really take into account runner length or plenum volume or anything which in hindsight I do regret a little but at the time I had no idea of the significance of any of these things and was just aiming to make a copy of my dad's design. Then it was packaged up and sent to a casting shop in Christchurch somewhere (the name escapes me) and promptly forgotten about for a couple of weeks while it was cast. Meanwhile, more stripping down was taking place on the car...
    6 points
  7. The eagle eyed among you may have noticed some holes drilled in the trans tunnel under the center console in the last post. They foreshadow the next step on the journey. The next thing we wanted to do was get the type 9 in the hole to see how things were going to line up and how much fab work was going to be necessary. So that meant making a bloody great hole in my car!! As you can see from all the holes, we carefully located all the spot welds and delicately drilled them out before gingerly hacking the firewall to pieces with a dodgy grinding disk. The seat boxes were pulled out at the same time revealing more rust holes. By doing it this way the plan was to move the top of the tunnel rearward to retain the stock swages and shape. Then a simple patch was to be made to cover up the gaping hole opened up at the front of the tunnel. Simples. Also the gearbox mounts were removed in a similar fashion to be relocated to fit the type 9 at the same time. Here we've hung the box off the hoist to put it within cooee of the right spot. The rust holes that were under the seat box are clear here as well. Then it was a simple task of marking up the new shape and trimming the paper thin factory ford steel with tin snips. But that's enough excitement for tonight. More tomorrow.
    6 points
  8. Then we rolled it out of the shed (probably to get it out of the way of something or other, I forget) and took some photos of it in the sunlight. It sits a bloody long way up in the front when there's no weight in the engine bay. Flintstones power plant on show. I'm really digging the cheviot turbos. They look sweet in the sunlight.
    5 points
  9. Back in 2015 dad and I took a road trip to Gisborne to pick up a Mk2 escort estate after buying it for $450. Put it on a trailer behind the Accord and made a 12 hour road trip home. This is the next morning after giving it a decent water blast and getting rid of the cockroach infestation that was living in it. The car came with no motor, a gearbox hanging from the rear engine mount, a fart cannon exhaust, little to no interior bar the headlining and dash cluster, steering wheel, column and pedal boxes, full glass, escort steelies all round, plus some other crap in boxes in the tray area. The plan at this point was to put a 2l pinto in it and a type 9 box. I very optimistically (read: naively) hoped to have it running in time to drive it as a daily once I got my restricted (six months later). A couple of years earlier I was given a 205 block pinto of unknown history from an ex-workmate of my dad's with the intention at the time of putting it in a 1928 ford pickup projects that never really got off the ground. So instead it sat around on a pallet until that morning when we dropped it into the hole and bolted it up to the 4 speed that was already in the car to check clearances and see what would have to be done.You'll notice too the set of cheviot turbo mags wrapped in yu-long-dong brand 175/60/13s front and 185s rear (these will be changed to a decent set once it's on the road). The mags were given to me by another friend of my dad's as payment for him rebuilding a front cross member for his genuine Capri Perana. After dropping the motor in and standing back to have a look and fizzing about it, the door was shut and so ended day number one. Discussion here:
    4 points
  10. I should fix my bike crabs and come to this
    4 points
  11. first time out of the shed in awhile!
    4 points
  12. Actually nah screw that I'm gonna keep going. Once the front panel was off the true extent of the corrosion in that part of the car was obvious. So more fab work was called for. I started off by making a new radiator support/front panel mount. I folded the main bend first then used a slitting disk to split the fold in the middle part where the rad mounts. Then I carefully reverse folded these two new flaps and zipped the whole lot up with the TIG. By doing the folds this way I was able to keep the amount of welding to a minimum and therefore the amount of distortion too. Then it was a doddle to put some plates in to blank off the holes and fold up the relevant mounting tabs and there you go, one piece done. You'll note the slight curve in the bottom part which follows the curve of the valence to be welded to it. This design is different to a stock escort where the rad cutout wouldn't have been there at all. By doing it this was I have made a neat solution to shift the rad forward in order to clear the longer pinto motor. Mint.
    3 points
  13. Next thing I got on to was investigating the small amount of rust you could see on the bottom of the front valence panel which you can sort of see in this photo. I could see a bit where there was some bog lifting away from the rusting steel underneath. So I put a screwdriver in behind the bog and chipped it out to see how far the bog went. And went. And went. There was a bit of bog on there actually. That's a size 10 boot and the pile is as high as the top of it. This is the state of what the bog was covering. The photos struggle to portray just quite how much the panel is pushed in. It was a mess. This is some of the thicker chunks of bog that came off. Please note that they're directly end on to the camera. That is actually how thick it was. There really are some gifted "panel beaters" out there.
    3 points
  14. Continuing the floor themed fabrication work the next job was to make up some seat boxes to replace the ones that were torn out. I wanted them to do a couple of things. Firstly they needed to tie the tunnel brace to the sill as the stock boxes did, as well as fitting the honda seats as low as possible and still giving the full range of movement. Initially I made up a cardboard template before transferring it to steel. We folded the basic profile up on a big sheet metal brake at a local bus company's workshop before bringing it home and I fettled up the side profiles to fit the tunnel and inner sill as closely as possible. Doubler plates were drilled, tapped, and had captive nuts welded on before being plug welded to the inside of each box. While I was at it I made up the rear mounting posts as well but I can't find any photos of them right now. I might edit them in later on. Again, typical me, only the final product is shown. I'm leaving them loose at the moment until I can get a cert man to come and double check them to make sure they're up to scratch before I weld them in.
    3 points
  15. The inner sill was replaced at the same time. It was all fully welded in the end but I can't find any photos. At the same time we pulled the heater bubble off and repaired the usual rust spot with another repro panel top along with a custom bottom patch. Then it was time to put it back on the trailer and haul the whole lot home.
    3 points
  16. Now was the point where it was decided that the pinto was simply too modern and complicated for what we wanted. We needed something simpler, more prehistoric. So Flintstones power it is! Saves a bunch of headaches worrying about complicated stuff like fuel and electrics and so forth this way. Before we cut the floors out we lay some poster paper down on the floors and made up some templates to then be transferred to 1mm sheet steel to make up the new floor pans. Then after my dumbass forgets to take any photos of the process, you have two floorpans with close to stock swage locations. Then it's a simple job of filling up ten billion plug welds and viola, one floor pan welded in. You'll notice the side of the tunnel was cut out and replaced as well. This wasn't the original plan but after taking out the gearbox mounts and seat boxes it was in such a state that replacing the lot was much easier than trying to fill each hole individually. It also affords the peace of mind of knowing there's some decent gauge steel in the car rather than ford's paper mache. A massive thanks to my dad for all this. It was a while before I had the confidence to start doing this sort of stuff myself.
    3 points
  17. Over time the rust will build up and inpregnate the gland packing making the pipe tighter sometimes you can put a choke hold sling on the pipe and use a come along to slowly remove the pipe from the socket
    3 points
  18. She's alive!! Got her started up on the weekend. Cheers for all the advice!!! Legends thank you!
    3 points
  19. So the bug made it into the pc mag. Cheers to @Snoozin for the great pics. Here are better pics with out the mag Again rolling shots are the tits You can really see how poo brown my interior is here. Go buy yourself a copy today.
    3 points
  20. On to the other side. I tore the A pillar off this side and found another piss poor repair attempt in the wheel arch. So while I was there I cut it all out as well as the front portion of the sill which needed rust repairs as well. When I cut the sill off I was particularly careful to keep the steel I ground out to a minimum. I used the thinnest slitting disk we have as you can see in the last photo, and kept it down to about 1mm or so lost material. The inner sill was cut out too for the same reasons. As you can see I also added in some bracing since I'm taking out so much structural material and I'd rather be safe than sorry. Then I set about rebuilding the front of the sill. I preferred at this stage to tack with the MIG and do the proper welding with the TIG as the photos show. Again, not my best work but as they say, "a grinder and paint make me the welder I aint" Then I used the through panel clamps to hold the sill in place while I tacked it back on. I used the original splitting disk to set the root gap of the weld to make doubly sure it was in exactly the same place as when it came off. Then it was tacked and fully welded back on, taking breaks and letting it cool to keep distortion down to a minimum. Turned out pretty good. Skim of filler, paint, you'll never know.
    2 points
  21. From memory the Stoddard Road shopping complex doesn't have speedbumps either. But I'll try to confirm this one night this week by pesting around the area in the 2E powered reconnaissance vehicle.
    2 points
  22. Then it was on to making up some rad support panels. I made up a wooden buck out of some MDF lying around and used that to form the ~20mm flanges on each one to fit the contour of the inner wing. One of them needed a bit of heat to encourage it to shrink around the corner but the other came around just fine. I used the bead roller to put in the inset portions to try and mimic the factory stamping shapes. These last two are all the panels clamped in place to see how they look, and them all laid out to more easily see how they fit together. The shorter one on the right was intentionally made that long but the asymmetry bugged the shit out of me so I ended up remaking it to the same length as the left hand one.
    2 points
  23. Next I made some repair panels for the front of each chassis leg. They were fairly simple. Started with a cardboard template then transferred it to steel and folded the lot up. There is actually an inner and outer piece to each of these just like the factory chassis leg to add rigidity but I didn't get any photos of the inners. This is the chassis leg and front panel sitting in place. I haven't removed the rad supports yet because I wanted to make all the replacement panels first in case I chop out the old panels and everything moves around and I don't know where to build to. I have to keep making posts with just a few photos because they're too big file sizes. I thought I was being clever at the time getting the highest possible quality photos from my phone. It's biting me in the bum now.
    2 points
  24. My next mini project was sorting out the twin carb linkage setup. I drew a lot of inspiration from the setup on my dad's 1600 but made a few tweaks. His is designed with the primary venturis furthest from the intake ports with the idea that when the secondaries open they have a straight shot down the thing's neck. In the interest of throttle response I've decided to instead put the primaries closest. This probably has little real world effect but I liked how it sounded. As you can see from the photos, there is a central stainless shaft mounted by a pair of rose joints, themselves mounted to two alloy plates clamped between the carb and the manifold. Off of the rod are mounted three stainless arms. The first is connected to the standard RS2000 throttle cable. The other two are connected to what I can only describe as miniature track rod ends which themselves are connected to another set, then the final linkage onto the carb. I back of the envelope calculated the lengths of the different arms to give me full pedal travel for full butterfly travel, hopefully avoiding a super twitchy throttle like the one in my dad's car. I also added an extra return spring on the cam cover just in case. In hindsight I want to revise the linkage with the two tie rod end things because they are both right hand threaded onto the central rod. This means I can only adjust the length of this part by one full turn relative to each other which would make balancing the two carbs damn difficult, if not impossible. Here is a video of the linkage in action, And here is a bonus video of milling up the carb face of the manifold. A huge thanks to Earle Tito Engineering Ltd for going the machining.
    2 points
  25. As promised a few pics of a Weber conversion on a Holden Black 6 and a little info on how to get it done. I believe Weber carburetors work better than Holley 2 barrels on the factory Holden manifold. The factory manifold on the Black / Blue Holden engine is actually a pretty flash design and the orientation of the throttle butterflies on a Holley 2 barrel is not ideal when using the factory manifold. The orientation of the throttle butterflies on a Weber is the same as the factory carburetor so I would go with a Weber if you decide to use a different carburetor adapted to your factory manifold. This is a budget set up as I used a Weber 34ADM from an XF Falcon but I have found it works very well. I picked up the Weber fairly cheap and rebuilt it using a rebuild kit from Weber Specialties in Auckland. You need to make a few small modifications to a Weber 34 to make it work correctly on a Holden 6 and I would be happy to provide more detail if you decide to copy this set up so don't hesitate to ask. Here is a view of the engine bay And a couple of photos of the carb installed on the factory manifold with an adapter plate. The adapter plate I used is an off the shelf Redline item P/N 10-218. From memory I think this adapter is designed for a Weber 32/36 so you will need to modify it to work with other types of Weber carb. I spent quite a lot of time reworking the adapter plate to get it to fit nicely with the bore size and spacing on the Weber 34 ADM. The adapter plate also needs a vacuum port drilled to ensure the power valve on the Weber operates correctly. I also had to add an additional spacer plate as shown below to allow the accelerator pump leaver to clear the adapter plate. This cost nothing but time to make the spacer and additional gaskets so no big deal. There are a couple of very convenient mounts on the factory manifold that allow you to easily make a bracket for your throttle cable as shown here. As you can see in the first pic in this post and the pic above I needed a very low profile air filter assembly to fit under the bonnet of the little Commodore so I went to pick-a- part and I found a suitable item on a twin carb Ford Laser Sport ( mid 80's model I think). I cut the bottom out and made a new base out of thin sheet metal to fit on the Weber carb. Again cheap as chips but gets the job done. So there is an option for you to think about, low budget but works well. There is heaps of little details that I haven't covered here but if you decide to do something like this I would be happy to post more info on the conversion.
    2 points
  26. It was also about now that I splurged for my birthday and bought a brand new repro grill with the FORD lettering in the center from the UK. Considering the amount I ended up paying for it I wasn't too happy with the quality of the finish (the silver "paint" is just very poorly cut decals) but it should come up pretty good with a lick of paint. I much prefer this style of grill but they're rare as rocking horse shit to find and the guys that do have them never want to sell so a brand new one it had to be.
    2 points
  27. Yeah I figured out the center punch method but this was a couple years ago now. I've since bought a proper bit and man the difference is fantastic. Unzips panels like a dream.
    2 points
  28. Lacking a proper spot weld drill as well as much knowledge of how to properly split spot welds, I decided to attack the driver's side guard. It had some decent rust along the back bottom edge and at the A-pillar join so it needed to come off. Here is the results of my ignorance. Once that was split, not much really happened until I got a couple of weeks off over the school holidays.
    2 points
  29. Yeah we traced the outline of the swages onto the steel and rolled it up on a bead roller. He's very good at what he does. This is his car https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/kiwi-made-1927-t-lakes-modified-journey-to-the-end-of-the-road.685236/
    2 points
  30. Summer is finally here in London, been mint cruising round decent weather. She's been running good, super reliable. She's getting a bit noisy in the top end so I'll get the cam chain and tensioner replaced for some peace of mind shortly. These motors apparently are notorious for their chewing out their rubber tensioner wheels over time. Got some sweet 78 Sprint glove for summer rides too, they have a lot of cool summer riding gear on this site, check it out: https://www.78motorco.com
    2 points
  31. The joys of having a dad with car obsessed mates... A couple of things happened in the same day on this day. Firstly a mate of dad's had a couple of seats he was planning to put in a T-bucket he was building up. However, in his opinion the small amount of wear on some of the upholstery meant they were useless and he didn't want them anymore. Not exactly sound logic in my opinion but there you are... his loss, my gain.Another thing I can add to the free component list. As you can see they're not the prettiest seats in the world but at the end of the day they're free and I think I have a plan to sort out the ugliness. I did a quick bit of research and apparently they're out of a 1990ish honda prelude so at the end of the day I can make mounts to fit these and if I want to I can fit bucket seats designed to fit a prelude if I want. Despite their looks, they are very comfortable with lumbar, tilt, and lateral support adjustment along with the bonus that they have the passenger operated tilt lever so the guys in the back seat can get out easy. The second win for the day was a big parts haul from another of dad's many mates. There's a guy around whangarei that drives a 1100 mk1 estate as his daily and he's stashed away two mk2 estates as parts cars. After a quick chat he very generously offered any interior parts we wanted since he only wanted mechanical spares off of them. So from that I managed to score 1x back seat with full clown car spec upholstery, 1x homemade purri gear knob, 1x center console, 1x gear stick boot Oh and shitloads of other stuff like full seat belts, door panels, heater box, kick panels, glovebox, dash trim, steering column and wheel, and more. We made sure to bag and tag everything so we know exactly where everything came from. So definitely a couple of wins that day.
    2 points
  32. go to SEACO and buy a gland packing remover. is like a cork screw. they make them in different DIAs for different gland packing thicknesses (all imperial because only the british would think rope to seal shit is a good idea) and you'll succeed at life.
    2 points
  33. Got most of the decking done on Sat.. and shifted the step/guard rail location Rain fucked me a bit on Sunday but once it cleared, I finished picture framing the deck.. realised I need to lift the steps up 33mm higher as the top step is 213mm instead of 180 (forgot about the decking) If the weather plays ball this weekend I'll get it done and hopefully move onto the facings/sills..
    2 points
  34. This is my Mk2 Escort Estate project which I started about two years ago. I wanted to share what I've been doing up to this point and once I'm caught up, keep you guys updated on my progress. Build Thread:
    1 point
  35. So I slapped that bracket in and bolted to door up to look at the fitment. As you can see, somethings not right. The door doesn't open near far enough and after some investigation I realised that the check strap bracket was about 5mm to far inboard. That meant the check strap couldn't extend far enough to allow the door to open properly. So out had to come the check strap bracket. Unfortunately some dick had plug welded the snot out of it and so I had to drill out the welds, shift it over, and weld it back in. I love making more work for myself.
    1 point
  36. Good lads ! Be good to see some QCR tees amongst the pack !
    1 point
  37. Wow I really appreciate how you guys have unbuttoned panels to fix things properly. How old are ya? Your skills put most of us to shame haha
    1 point
  38. Dad modified the pinto sump to clear the escort cross member because while an alloy RS2000 unit would be nice, the price is a bit excessive. I did some rough calculations to make sure it's close to the stock volume. Note the cutout to avoid the clutch cable. Not shown in the photos is the baffle added later on.
    1 point
  39. I have one of these. Makes spot weld drilling easyish. I've drilled maybe 30 spot welds and I'm still using the first side of the cutter dealie. You get 11 cutters that you can use both sides of, so 22... You need to center punch or drill a little dimple, or the drill just fucks off and makes scratches. Start slow and don't push hard till it's started cutting, or, the drill just grabs and fucks off. Desic spot weld drill on trademe link thing
    1 point
  40. Yup all sorted now. This is them re assembled. 12T press did the job nicely on the ball joints, those things wont move without one!
    1 point
  41. @My name is Russell http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mitsubishi/manuals/auction-1358354149.htm
    1 point
  42. Nice, escort wagons are cool cars! Awesome work on the home made 1/4 bumpers, only ever seen people chop them down, not fold and weld up to make them look legit like you've done!
    1 point
  43. You're probably correct, but you may still need a series R too, because an LED is typically a 1.2V (red) to 4V (white) device. This could be built into the LED enclosure if it's a 12V item So @mjrstar |-------- 2000ohm -------| | --------- LED --------------|----------- 500 ohm ----------- CEL Tweak values for bypass ( less to reduce off glow) and feed (less for more 'on time' brightness)
    1 point
  44. I have a Haynes FC manual that has plenty of stock rebuild specs/info if you would like to borrow? PM me
    1 point
  45. Got to my sister's house in Wisconsin and took the opportunity to wash and wax the van. Really trying to protect the paint and get the dirt off the roof. Also took everything out and vacuumed it. If you live in an area with trees, especially pine trees, it's good to take the black plastic trim around the rear door off and de gunk it every once in awhile, otherwise the lip on the roof under it rusts away. She didn't have a ladder so washing/waxing the roof was fun... Also added in a propane detector. I carry an 11lb bottle inside the van and this was recommended to me. Apparently it's illegal to have a commercial RV with propane without one in the USA. Seemed like a good idea. It's behind my fridge and wired directly to the aux fuse panel so it's away on.
    1 point
  46. That leaf Spring front end looks so so good
    1 point
  47. Got up early, excited like a little kid on Christmas. Last night I was faced with the dilemma of where I was going to mount the compact bender. But in the early hours of the morning I had my epiphany! If I mount it with (4x) 16mm dynabolts, into the concrete floor it's going nowhere. And if positioned just out from a door pillar, I can get the full 270° of articulation when both doors are up. The arm can come off and hang on the machine, completely tucked out of the way...and it's in what I would call dead space in my shed i.e. a space that has no other use...win, win...win! It handled the 16mm cold rolled solid rod with relative ease, producing a perfect bend on my first attempt! Fuck yeah...love this tool!!!
    1 point
  48. Made some brackets to mount the valves. For some reason the holes ended up too far out so had to slot them a little. They're held in with countersunk screws so it's all still flush underneath (not that anyone will be able to see underneath anyway haha). Played around a bit with the location for a while and decided this was the best. Wasn't really enough room for the compressor to fit in between. Will mount a compressor on each side of the bed, just above the exhaust area. Back to fitting and fixing the rust in the dash now. Cut out the good/un-butchered section of the dash that some idiot tried fitting a commodore cluster in. Glad to finally throw this shit out! Pic for motivation
    1 point
  49. Waiting on a few parts to turn up, so that gives me a little time to play with some of the "styling". Leather and pinup girls...two of my favourite things
    1 point
  50. The tires on it also looked about the same age as the shocks so they were binned for new ones, I liked the ribbed vintage look so I got some new Chen Sheng and Maxxis tires. Then had a massive day at the workshop; Installed new rear shocks New tires, inner tubes and rim tape Stripped and rebuilt the front forks, new genuine Honda seals and fork oil. New brake shoes, lubed the brake drum mechanisms. Tided up some rough as guts wiring around the points. Rides well now, handles solid round corners and the brakes actually work. Stoked!
    1 point
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