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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/06/17 in all areas

  1. Made some brackets to mount the valves. For some reason the holes ended up too far out so had to slot them a little. They're held in with countersunk screws so it's all still flush underneath (not that anyone will be able to see underneath anyway haha). Played around a bit with the location for a while and decided this was the best. Wasn't really enough room for the compressor to fit in between. Will mount a compressor on each side of the bed, just above the exhaust area. Back to fitting and fixing the rust in the dash now. Cut out the good/un-butchered section of the dash that some idiot tried fitting a commodore cluster in. Glad to finally throw this shit out! Pic for motivation
    13 points
  2. Commer update! Swapped the v8 one above for an 86 Isuzu NKR light truck, went to a guy in te awamutu who is far more motivated than myself. Had some big vehicular news, caught up with the guy who I sold my 1st car to, last time I saw it it was sitting on a lawn with no windscreen 13? years ago, and I assumed It had dissolved, a reasonable assumption as 70s leyland product. No, its been in a shed with reg on hold since about a week after I saw it, and would I like it back, free on the proviso I return it if I get bored with it? Sure! The car is of course, a 4k-powered, 5 speeded, disc braked, woefully inadequate windowless marina panelvan. Thinking that two british cars is probably two too many, I put Tori's ex commer (aka the os commer) up for sale and was swamped with interest. Guy from waimiha was first to view and said he'd take it. I offered to take it for a wof to see what it needed, flew through with a clean sheet this morning, so got a years cheap reg too. Am now hoping the guy won't get back to me (hasn't so far so I can enjoy 3 months or so of legal commer action haha, so this saga may or may not be continued...
    6 points
  3. this is what she ended up looking like as i drove it round for 6 or so months, Untill all of the oil decided to exit via the dipstick So i searched for ages for a replacement, and found a 393 windsor that a few of you may have seen on trademe. Its a ford motorsport block with 4 bolt mains, edelbrock alloy heads, scat crank rods pistons, super victor intake and is dry sumped. Came with all lines, tank and pump etc. I also bough an LSD 9 Inch off the same guy. Should be good for about 550hp, Have started taking it apart to re paint the block and check over everything, such a cool pulley setup on the front. .
    6 points
  4. Then I was doing a patch in the sill and RAN OUT OF GAS. Fucking rage. So I was left to make all the rest of the body patches and rust kill and seal seams. While feeding rust converter all around through a hole, the brush posed no resistance.. FUUUUUUCK. Most akward placement. like an archaeological dig in the rear guard, that's about 4 inches of dirt. found a bulb. Luckily the rust hasn't eaten through the inner yet so took a good clean and rust kill. made patches for the bottom of the guard x2, outer C pillar x2, another 4 in wheel arch and the ugly one for the inner guard, coaxed the frame off the other front guard then gave up for the day.
    6 points
  5. all the footings/piles/under floor concrete is done now. the digger will be here Thursday to clean out the clay and whatnot then its in with the hard fill and they can pour the slabs. floor gets poured late next week. and then everything up t floor level is finished. 2017-06-06_04-09-10 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-06-06_04-09-27 by sheepers, on Flickr
    4 points
  6. Well just picked up my new project a 99.9% rust free P6 V8 rover in white. list of what to do: 1) rebuild breacks 2) rewire ignition to starter 3) fix gearbox bushing (or find an SD1 5 speed) 4) take for a spin and find more bugs Discuss here:
    3 points
  7. Right, so i haven't been that great at keeping up to date and getting pictures but LARGE UPDATE TIME. The motor is in, with no issues getting it in except a pin the the rear flywheel being missing it all went to plan. After purchasing the needed parts we started it for the first time. Running on 95 it started and ran after having to get a small block out of the fuel line. After starting it and realizing that there was no temperature gauge nor indicator i went and purchased a oil pressure gauge and water temp. I have them placed currently like this but i am thinking of moving the oil pressure next to the water temp after i buy a new line for it. Ive had a few small leaks which ive fixed but still have an ongoing fuel leak. Ill have to buy some smaller line. The window was smashed by the previous owner so i replaced that with the help of dad and it is now water tight and able to be locked. Next on the list is to fix a small amount of rust in the inner guard, fix the bottom front indicator (Replace the wire) and fix the exhaust leaks/rust holes. It should go throught for its first attempt on Wednesday.
    3 points
  8. But we weren't able to see if it ran, disappointment. So gravity feed temporary fuel system. A battery and a bit of bleeding and glowing. The LD28 seems pretty healthy and sounds great, really enjoying just going to the shed and revving it a couple times a day. Need to figure out whats wrong with the clutch now though, will start by looking at the master and/or slave cylinders. IMG_20170604_111604 by John Bell, on Flickr Like comment and subscribe
    3 points
  9. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Forged-Stainless-4-Bar-Rod-End-3-4-16-RH-Thread-Polished,226096.html?OriginalQuery=91008038 Got left and right of these. Listed as 4 bar ends.. See in the questions they reply to me and say they are poly...but when I look up the replacement bushes for these they are nylon. Strangely enough they have told me that their nylon and poly bushes are not interchangeable as bore of joint is different. Anyway.. I have written to them a polite but annoyed email as they made a few errors in my order (like one joint completely the wrong size in the wrong opened packaging)
    2 points
  10. A bit of long roof action... Last time we saw the roof, @Guypie had stripped it and coated with BlackGuard. The rust was coming back pretty much all over so... The coating was hard to remove, in the end I used paint stripper on it. 1/2 done. There were quite a few rusty lightly pitted areas. I had a go with phosphoric acid, but it wasn't having much effect. So I broke out the nasty muriatic acid. This is after a clean-up (it flash rusts very quickly), and working on the pitted areas with a wire brush. Cleaned that mess up with the phosphoric. As it sits tonight (with a bit of prepsol in some places) I'm going to etch prime tomorrow, then see about getting the windscreen out. I still need to do the back edge above the tailgate too.
    2 points
  11. Weekend progress pic TALKY TALKY HERE
    2 points
  12. So yeah, first priority has been to see if it'd run after its ~10yr rest. But the fuel tank had the drain bung, level sender, and pickup all removed because it had a 'problem' back then, maybe blocked lines? The tank looked in pretty good shape inside and out. So plugged everything back up, carefully tipped a few liters of diesel in there, and sure enough it came out the bottom pretty quickly. Fuel tank lives under the drivers seat. The sender and guage appear to work (pretty) well. IMG_20170603_094104 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20170603_094124 by John Bell, on Flickr Rusted fasteners, tank comes out. IMG_20170603_104539 by John Bell, on Flickr Degrease, waterblast, investigation. IMG_20170603_122150 by John Bell, on Flickr Hole. IMG_20170603_122220 by John Bell, on Flickr Tank is folded and soldiered together, so will have an attempt at picking it apart and plugging up the yuck bits. Clean up and paint etc too, this week hopefully. For those interested, the OE Land Rover fuel filter housing seems to be a fairly generic item used on British diesels from this era. It looks to be the same one used on our Lister, and Perkins(Massey Ferguson) diesels. So got a new filter cartridge from agspares.co.nz for a MF165 for $6ish. Bargain M8.
    2 points
  13. Not really an update, but I've owned this old sausage for 8 years this month. I might do something about the front seat next, it's never been very comfortable. And do some rustproofing after seeing pics of bart's vg, ha
    2 points
  14. It's time to waste a whole lot of time and money that should probably be spent on other stuff. Some people on the forum will know our 1963 AP5 Valiant Regal but for everybody else who is interested here is a little history. My Dad purchased this car in 1983 and it was our regular family car for many years. Here is a photo taken some time in the early 80's. Dad had 2 AP5's at the time, the grey one on the right was a dedicated tow vehicle and was modified accordingly. The green one on the left is ours. About 7 years ago we were lucky enough to get our hands on this original and well looked car however a few things needed attention fairly quickly. Almost immediately we did a few safety upgrades. The car got a front disc brake conversion, new seatbelts and we replaced the wheels and tires in order to make it safe to drive in the rain. Until fairly recently I was hanging out on another forum dedicated to the fine products of the Chrysler Corporation with a few other members that have since come across to Oldschool and unfortunately a lot of the details of the work completed on the car to date was lost when the forum closed earlier this year. Lucky for me the Oldschool forum is awesome and I am very happy to be joining you all over here. This is how the car looked after its first round of upgrades. We drove it around for a while with the stock drive-line and aside from a little oil burning/leaking issue all was well. Then this happened. This was coolant leaking from a very bad place, yep cracked block! So naturally this happened next. And finally with the help of a local engine builder here in Auckland this happened. Sounds simple enough but it actually took nearly 12 months to resurrect the Slant 6 as the engine was in bad shape. We were very keen to salvage the original block and keep the car numbers matching but it was no easy task. I did as much work myself as possible but given the challenges involved in fixing the engine I was very happy to be working with a skilled engine builder and I am very happy with the result. This engine is awesome and it's still a numbers matching car. That's all for now, next post will be all about the current build. Feel free to discuss here. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56384-1963-ap5s-valiant-regal-discussion/
    1 point
  15. With regards to drive shaft loops. Car originally had a n/a v6, new engine is a 1.8 4cyl turbo, all bolts in on factory mounts and nothing has changed on the drive line. The v6 had 175hp, the 1.8 has 150hp. Will it need a loop?
    1 point
  16. I have done a fair bit of looking and head scratching about the headers, passengers side is front 2 cylinders and rear 2 connected, drivers side are first and third, second and fourth. I am not getting worried about primary pipe length, what ever fits is how it will be, the secondaries will be a long as possible. I get the feeling this will be another session of cut, fit, tack, cut apart, retack...........repeat endlessly until they have been built about 3 times before I am happy.
    1 point
  17. I got the channel off. This is rusty. These are bits I have cut off and need to use to make templates for repair pieces. Cut that off. The inner wing panel behind it also need to be replaced, it's pretty thin in lots of places. An outer sill was BRAZED, over the old rusty sill, so that will have to come off too. Need to make a new end for this box section thing. Still more cutting to do before I can start putting new metal in, getting a bit hard to fit the grinder in... Might have to switch to the reciprocating saw. Maybe the plasma cutter, but I'm wary of cutting through more than one layer. I would like to replace the rear half of the wing/guard as mine is full of bog. Anyone got anything? Front half of the guard appears to be okay,
    1 point
  18. Here are some more pics of it in chassis mock-up stage. I think those pics in the post above may have been how it first turned up.
    1 point
  19. Really that odd thread, there are two different kinds of replacement joints. One has a proper thread, the other it actually a press in jobbie. Ovoid the press in kind like the plague. They're not hard to get out. Just get a big pair of pipe tongs (24 or 36) and slide a Metre or two of pipe over the handle. They unscrew right out. Had a lol when a guy at a parts shop who had done a Val insisted we wouldn't be able to get them out with the arm in the car. Then told us, yeah you gotta mark the position of the eccentric bolts blah blah. I've done it, and I'm telling you you won't get it out with the arm in the car. Mayte, its already out. You can screw them back in with pipe tongs too, but as said getting the thread started not cross threaded is the trick.
    1 point
  20. Those ball joints are identical to Mazda bottom ball joints.. I bought a 35odd mm 3/4" drive socket and cut it so there was enough meat to catch the ball joint but clear the control arm.. cost me 40 bucks.
    1 point
  21. With the headers anything is probably better than stock manifolds, just make sure they are phased correctly if they are try Ys.
    1 point
  22. A long overdue update and photos Here is the brake booster, the lean to the motor is to create clearance between the plastic reservoir and the bonnet spring I went to fit the park brake and found that the brake pedal was in the way. Nothing that 2 hours of stuffing around couldn't fix. Once it was sorted and everything connected the position felt pretty good. Here is the modified fuel tank. An the hole in the floor for the filler pipe to come in. The steel box section beside the hole is for the tank mounts and the floor has been welded to it. Much stronger than before. I had been thinking about the seat belt mounts. There are doubler plates available from the likes of Fraser cars at $15 each and they still need to be drilled for the rivets or bolts that hold them together. I need 12 sets because the car came mounts for the driver and front passenger only, nothing for the centre of the front seat or the back seat. The original mounts on the floor disappeared when the floor pans got replaced. I had some 3mm plate and decided on Saturday to make my own plates. 2 hours later I had 20 50mm x 80mm plates with rounded corners and beveled edges as per the certification code. The still have to be drilled for the bolts and then painted. And for a laugh here is my DIY linisher
    1 point
  23. Dashboard nightmares. I had too much head scratching over the heater box and after all the fucking around rebuilding the XE one i cant use it. so i stuck the xf one back in and i'll work out the vacuum lines later. wiring is another headscratcher too. theres 2 dash's. one with a crappy 'econoguage' and one with s pack clocks. so i'm building 1 good one out of the two. got a fair way into it, just still not sure if i'm gonna splice the xe dash into the xf loom where the multiplug are or run as much of the xf loom as poss and just use the XE switches. any thoughts or suggestions on this? also did a few other small jobs that aren't really of note but it all helps. put the fuel tank back in too. I placed it in first cos i needed a cheap victory. awe ensued. Stripped the loom out, this is the one i dont want but the dash itself is much nicer. how i left it. fuel tank in, i put the lid on too, shame theres all that wasted space underneath.
    1 point
  24. 5 Years today together Happy Anniversary baby That's the day / night I got her btw
    1 point
  25. Shifted in on the weekend of the 20th of May, got a couple of shots of a pristine house, then it turned to shit.. Bespoke splash back, Not really sure how I feel about being in, I liken it to eating a pizza you made never tastes as good as someone else's.. got a few stresses with regards to finance, as we're way over budget I can't put a heat pump in which kind of sucks, and I'll have to hope that since the original valuation of 335k didn't include half the stuff I've done inside nor a deck that the next one will be more in the ball park of 360 otherwise I'm pretty well fucked... also won't be etting a garage anytime soon which quadruple sucks.. Put in some stumps for the deck today.. Discovered this week also that I have a one month deadline to get code, pressure goes back on..
    1 point
  26. Bench top saga.. About a day after I decided to keep and pay for the dressed mac I'd been accidentally sent I decided for the short term it was too expensive to laminate my bench top.. que Trademe find of 45mm lvl plywood for 140 a sheet, and then subsequent delivery.. I was always going to do some sort of temp plywood bench but I ended up putting a fair amount of work into it. Suffice to say it's here to stay. Cut and test fit, Decided to narrow the kitchen width a bit a and add in a breakfast bar on the island while I was there. (can see my horizontal handles) Epoxied the two halves together using these handy clamps, Needed to find a sink that was small enough to fit with the carcase and tap centers, in my infinite wisdom I moved the taps 100mm to the right before I'd even bought the kitchen, then restricted what I could put in there. Found an insert that was almost right, then cut it up, Set it out, at 11pm at night the only thing I could find to measure the radius of the corners was a half used roll of ecoply tape, turns out the corner I measured was the only one with the same radius add the tape, the other three are slightly smaller, doh! It's also not square.. Cut with a jigsaw, did a great job.. Routed a recess for the sink and attached the clamps I cut off the old insert.. Had to make some minor adjustments to the carcase, Epoxy for the finish coat, soaks into the wood and won't peel like urethane, was gonna oil it but the edges of the ply aren't particularly strong, the epoxy also fixes that problem.. I then partially mounted it and set out and cut the hob hole.. I then had a minor anxiety attack, cursing myself for making life hard with a 900mm hob and worrying about the addition of a thermal block between the hob and carcase, got over it and just cut the carcase as I needed, turned out good in the end, just shows what 4hrs sleep a night does for your mental stability (that and having 4 days to do a 5 day job) Hob test mounted, Late night bench sanding The ply came with an annoying bow from side to side, really became noticeable with the island, so I mounted it bowing back the other way as much as I could in the hope that the epoxy would semi hold in that position, kind of worked.. The epoxy, Did a much better job with this one as I had more time, with the other side I got quite a few air bubbles but as I was doing it in work hours I had to go with it, will sand out back at a later date and do a final coat. The island looks a lot better.. Big thanks to Luke (bling) for easing my mind with regards to the hob and the gas install Cut and epoxied the sides, Then added strand board to the back, I like stand board, it's kind of industrial but not.. Still need to get another sheet to do the kickers and then the kitchens mostly done.
    1 point
  27. been commuting this a bit lately, more so since some dick crashed into the mrs corolla on a roundabout time to improve the one star safety rating and de-special the special bus at the same time nissan mistral SS nudge bar, secured to the still unboltable factory tow hooks IPF "super rally" spots from the old van controlled via a relayed dash rocker switch so they only come on with the high beam.
    1 point
  28. Bolted in the new pedal assembly with some rivnuts through firewall. It had to be mounted far higher than expected so I need to either make a new gas pedal arm or use a longer pad. No biggie and I deserve the bother for poor planning haha. But aside from that I'm happy as..it will work well.
    1 point
  29. And then...so the guard has been damaged in the past, beat back into shape, then skimmed with about 6mm bog. Balls, more rust up there. Bye bye guard. I need to make another one of these. I need to replace part of this gutter, and it needs to come off so I can fix the rusty thing under it. Most of this thing needs to be replaced... there is also a small hole behind it that has been bogged over.
    1 point
  30. Did a little mod today. The side barn door windows were clear but the rear ones that I swapped in were tinted, plus the silver insulation window shades stuck out like dogs balls. Not the stealth look I was going, for so I picked up some tint from Canadian Tire and put it on in the parking lot. Not a pro job by any means and it's a bit bluer than the rear but it looks good from 5ft.
    1 point
  31. Other end of the engine size scale, I picked up this non running scooter from Scrubb, what a top bloke. I got it home and managed to lose the key somewhere, I disassembled the ignition switch to get that working and it had some water in it, and the air filter foam had fallen to bits so maybe it had sucked some of that into the carb. Anyway after that it started, I fixed the indicators, made a new air filter out of a car wash sponge, cleaned it, and got rego on it. At first I thought there was something wrong with the clutch but it turns out it has a automatic 2 speed. I have had some funny looks when riding it.
    1 point
  32. I've gone and bought a set of stock wheels. The 17s are nice but I want to see how the car drives as Mazda intended, and I do really like the 16s. A test drive showed less tramlining, lighter steering, and a slightly more comfortable ride. Which is what I hoped for. Some of the roads I like to drive are not at all smooth! The tyres are touring spec Goodyear LS2000. So the next thing to buy is a set of Potenza RE003 or Pilot Sport 3.
    1 point
  33. Got the tailgate painted (nothing special I must say) and the glass reinstalled with a new rubber and plenty of goo. Sore thumbs after that effort. Drove up to Ohakune for a weekend with the Morris Enthusiasts Club (yes there was a literal Barry in attendance). First stop on Saturday was Horopito. Last time I was there I didn't have this car, so wasn't looking for BMC Farina models. This time was different. Found a (shagged) wagon And others Grabbed a right rear door interior panel off this one, as I didn't have one at all. It's not quite a match, but better than nothing. We also visited the Chateau, and Te Porere Redoubt on that side of the mountain. Sunday we stopped at the Tangiwai memorial which has been upgraded quite a bit since last year. Turned off the main highway at the railway crossing near Tangiwai and headed down the Turakina Valley. Mostly dirt roads down this way. Stopped for a cup of tea, and then lunch on this route. Also at a waterfall. Exited the back roads at Hunterville and headed home via P North. Took quite a while to wash the mud out from under the car (first wash since Nats I think) Weather was actually quite good (especially compared to the forecast) so didn't get to test the water-tightness of the duct-taped front screen seal. That will be the next bit to be worked on I think.
    1 point
  34. ah shit man! 3 weeks without an update and a solid month since i did the other sill! shit man that went fast had a day away from it cos i was poked, a weekend off due to family birthdays and other obligations and now here we are. 99.99999% of the welding is done. thanks buggery for that. its all done i think, but you just never know. Same old same old. small hole, make a big hole, no hole! its a bit frankenstein in the inner wheel well but i couldn't be fucked, neither could stan, its about 3 differnt pieces and its solid. thats all i want. ill grind it back and etch prime it and just spray on some schutz. its not a show car. its a daily ute, i have to keep reminding myself of that. the lip for the arch and the body line aren't finished. So yeah, thats the other side done, now i think she's all solid. those sill panels make a bloody nice job of it i have to say, $160 each and they only require a little bit of tinkering. i'm stoked for once. we had the drivers door and guard on and off a dozen times too but no photos of that this time, no need. once i've ground all that back i know there'll be a few holes etc to touch in and then its onto the bog work and other mind numbing stuffs. chur for reading about a boring (not quite old enough) ford!
    1 point
  35. Long time lurker but I may be able to help here. I run drift days mostly based out of Taupo, we have done a number of days where what we have done is split the field in half and dont 1 group of drift and 1 group of grip (usually for a bunch of people who want to go play together or from a club who dont feel they will have the numbers to support a day on there own) so am happy to help out on that sort of front.
    1 point
  36. If its a little bit down the line I will be keen for taupo track 3, but have to repair my car and move house somewhere in the middle
    1 point
  37. Yeah back in the day it seemed like there were very few events to attend and needed to find a group and organise them. Now with Playday on track and similar, it's just too easy and no organisational hassles for anyone. Best thing to do is just try talk a bunch of mates into all piggybacking onto someone elses event. Dont be worried about the fast cars on track, I have lots of cars pass me and also pass lots of cars. I would rather be the slowest car in a stint full of good drivers than the fastest car in a group of people who are not experienced on the track. (Have seen some erratic swerving, not letting people past, or other stupid behaviour) I'm moving back up to the North Island in the next few weeks so I'll be keen to get to some more events again. In the meantime I will give Adam (other admin on trackday page) a rev up about keeping it up to date haha.
    1 point
  38. Finished another patch of rust. Hate trying to do them when you can't get in behind with a dolly, makes it difficult. Made up some strap sort of things to mount the fuel tank. Spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to mount it and decided that adding another bar between the chassis rails was the best. The straps pull the tank up against the top brackets, should hopefully hold it in place well enough. Made up a aluminium tray to mount the air tank and compressor in. Being able to draw stuff up in cad, program it, laser cut and use a CNC press-brake is pretty great! It's pretty tight but fits. Will swap the tank to the back as the tank will look better being visible through those holes than the compressor. I'm sure I'll paint it black so it's a bit more subtle. Got the rest of the exhaust tacked together as well. Not sure if I'll change where it exits, because at the moment it sort of comes out between the tailgate and bumper or just leave it as is. I think the whole exhaust has 10-12 u-bends in it now haha.
    1 point
  39. Up in Nova Scotia now, just left cape Brenton national Park, quite an amazing drive if you get to do it. It's been a bit cold and rainy but I totally recommend the off season, apparently a zoo in the summer. All the campgrounds were "closed" but no one said anything about us parking there, so it was an affordable few days . Got some biking and hiking done. Also I totally recommend carrying tire plugs and and air on long trips, got a nail in the tire, much quicker to just fix it then swap it. I use a co2 paintball cylinder and a fixed pressure regulator but a 12v compressor would work too.
    1 point
  40. I had a similar problem till I noticed a plastic film on the lens that I was supposed to remove
    1 point
  41. Tortron was kind enough to make me a discussion thread, you can provide me with personalised or generic abuse here: Update time! Dulux rebuild almost finished, just the chassis from cab forward to go. Actually looks ok for $2 shop brushes wielded by a man high on paint fumes. Painting a vehicle with a brush is very therapeutic, so much less hassle than spraying. No point pushing the boat out on this one! Wasn't going to paint the whole body but by the time i'd painted all the ex-rusty bits, chips etc etc it was looking pretty patchy. Also got all the lights & the wiper going, various blown bulbs/bad earths & so on. Found the diff appears to be minus any sort of breather, will rectify & see if it helps with the leaky axles, as they don't seem to leak while stationary. Fell through one of the running boards so replaced them both with some leftover decking, as you do
    1 point
  42. Got the cab back from sandblasting. Has also been etch primed. They did a very good job of it. Patch panels for the right hand side floor should be here in the next week or two. Made up a plate to replace the door hinge captive nuts that were turning. Plug welded it in. Pic for thread because these updates aren't that exciting and so I don't forget how cool this will look once it's done.
    1 point
  43. Left the calipers at MP Autoparts this morning. They have disassembled them and the pistons are fuckered. They will clean the calipers and supply seals, pistons and new pads. I'm getting new hoses too. I took the rear drums off tonight, they look okay, same goes for the shoes. The wheel cylinders are fucked as expected. I have two new ones to go on. One of the E-clips for the wheel cylinders broke, so I need another. When I took the rear wheels off... Shits fucked yo. Only one wheel is cracked. I expect it is beyond economical repair?? It has a spare steel wheel.
    1 point
  44. More progress on the old girl. Still chipping away on the wiring but with engine in, I can now start the engine loom also.
    1 point
  45. still chipping away at this, small update but a big milestone.. Engine now rebuilt and together. Wiring is underway.
    1 point
  46. Last week i priced up a respray and decided to attack all of the rust, dents and scratches. Here it is with the front guards off, the worst rust was underneath them, and you can see half of it sitting on the ground After i fixed the rust i primed and sprayed rubberized underbody spray on the inside of the guards So anyway the guards are back on now, rust has been fixed, the dents and scratches that have been fixed have been primed and there's now only a few little things to do before its ready to be sprayed. [/center] And ive only been pulled up for one random license and breath test
    1 point
  47. this one is looking back at the brake reaction rod, if you watch carefully you can see the front crossmember flexing under braking loads, and the engine moving around under braking
    1 point
  48. Have got someone making me some new tie rods which take a factory inner tie rod end, and a commodore outer tie rod end which has the pivot point lower, which should reduce the amount of bump steer. and i went to OS drag day also, big surprise, if you do skids for ages, brake drums dont like it and get shuddery. luckily i have a spare set, put those on today. it did a 14.28 @98mph. it did have a couple of runs where it had a splutter- its either running out of fuel (it has a stock fuel pump) or the lifters are pumping up. i have an old camera that i "improved" the battery door on by bolting a bit of steel to it, which also makes quite a good mount when combined with 3 strong magnets, its interesting to video the suspension and whats going on when you drive it. Quite surprising to see the amount of movement- eg 0.37 there is 2 reasonably heavy applications of brake, you can see the caliper rotating the spindle- this is mostly movement in the brake reaction rod bushes, but the upper arm bushes move as well, and if you study it closely, you can see the whole inner guard deflecting. in this one the camera is mounted to the bumper iron looking back at the left front wheel
    1 point
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