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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/20/17 in all areas

  1. And as for the problem under the bonnet, obviously you'd want to consider a 2ZZ. At least she's a beauty though. There were some other cars at the meet... ..and they were a little bit stellar, but not Hyundai Stellar.
    9 points
  2. pointless photo.hung the front fenders, almost looks like a car!Started work on the front valance.
    5 points
  3. It can be done, If the Id tags are changed at all its meant to go to a tsda for them to attach them, or if you end up with a mismatch of numbers ie the chassis number is no longer the same as the one on the firewall, they can note it in Landata so it's all legit.
    5 points
  4. Here it is Check out April's issue of New Zealand Autocar Found my copy Big shout out to "Snoozin" Richard Opie for arranging this , the great photos and the fantastic write up !
    5 points
  5. trucks broken, never should have said i would go to an OS event tbh
    4 points
  6. So this happened: Long story short, I took it for a WOF, and it failed on excessive steering play, which turned out to be a worn bush (which is better than a fucked rack or tierod end, I suppose). While it was in the workshop we noticed a weird squealing/chuffing noise from one of the belts, so I got Karl to inspect further. What he found next will shock you! Nah not really. But he did discover that the cambelt was really old and perished, and chunks were flaking off it - and the waterpump seals have started weeping - even though it had been changed at 90,000km (less than 20,000km ago). We're guessing that it was done maybe 10 years ago and the car simply hasn't been driven a lot in Japan, then I got hold of it and drove to Nats 2016 and around the country like a lunatic. Ha! So with that in mind, out the hole it goes for another new cambelt, tensioner, seals, waterpump, belts, blah blah blah. I'm slightly disappointed that I haven't even had a chance to stockpile more upgrade parts yet, because I was so confident that it wouldn't need any serious work done for another 50-60,000km and I had ages to collect more shit for it. At least I will now be able to fit the shiny extractors I bought a while back, but it would have been nice to throw in an upgraded supercharger pulley, LSD box, and rear swaybar at the same time. Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49412-80s-kid-part-ii-eds-aw11-sc-chit-chat/
    4 points
  7. bit more progress.body on wooden stand.doors bogged and primed.fenders bogged and primedtook a lot of work, many late nights, all day Sunday and half of Monday.A little tip, don't try welding 6 fenders together to make two, so much work to make them look good Still heaps to go!life looks like this now.time to finish up the shell and get those valance's done!
    4 points
  8. First step, keep an eye out for your friendly neighbourhood hammock Street vendor
    3 points
  9. Mid sand shotz, Hole? What hole.. Rimu kaleidascope Bathroom Reckon I could've just smashed the boards in there without a care in the world and it would still look good..
    3 points
  10. Are you sure it wasn't tyre smoke? I heard Stellars go hard for what they are.
    3 points
  11. I've wanted an RX7 since I was about 11 years old. I think the first FD I ever saw was a bright red one parked in a driveway, while I was walking to school. I had no idea what it was, but its beauty stuck in my mind. One of my classmates was a big car fan, due to his father running a workshop, focused on rotaries, and had an RX2 rally car, and a HB Cosmo, and an RX7 dirt track car...! So my friends influence really set me on the path to RX7 obsession. 20 years later and I have bought an FD. I've daydreamed about it for a few years as my savings grew bigger. Since 2016 I've been looking seriously, having inspected 5 cars for sale. Then this one turned up. 1994 Type R with 45,000 genuine, verified kilometres. It was imported last year by an old guy who is an old-school rotary fan and serial car collector. big photo album: https://goo.gl/photos/1KavduxG5q638suD7 The current mod list is short, and were all from Japan. - Fujitsubo 3" cat-back exhaust, which sounds perfect to me. Quiet at cruise and idle, no droning, and a good sporty tone when pushing. - 17" x 8.5" / 9" Racing Beat RB-02 wheels. Allegedly made by Work Wheels, they are a nice 3 piece set. I have to measure the offset as the labels have worn off, and the centre caps are missing. - Apexi RevSpeedMeter mk1. This nifty but useless device shows a digital readout of revs and speed. It can estimate acceleration times and flash speed and rev warnings. I need to investigate if the ECU is standard. The sills have "Blitz Access Super Computer" stickers, which was apparently a plug-in ECU upgrade from the '90s. My current modification plans for the car, after tonnes of research: water temperature and boost gauges alarm & immobiliser - mandatory for insurance aluminium AST aluminium radiator full set of tyres (eg. RE003 245/40/17). The current ones are over 10 years old and still have the coloured streaks from when they were brand new... not safe! auxiliary injection (e.g. AEM water injection) General maintenance comes first of course. Then, just drive it. I love track days so I'll be getting into those as soon as I can. I don't have any desire for more power, as I drive quite sedately on the street. The car is only a weekend ride so it always feels special to use.
    2 points
  12. Stellar was launched in 1983, white plates started with "NA" in Nov 86. Plastic bumpers first appeared on the Pontiac GTO in '68, on the Renault 5 in 1971, and locally on the Todd assembled Chrysler Alpine from 1977.
    2 points
  13. I got to play with the lathe again. I turned the spacers down and got them pretty close
    2 points
  14. failed hard, cant get bolts out of cross bar. yeh the towers look ugly from the top, but wont see them once done v2
    2 points
  15. Done the floor patch, just need to do the bit up the side and then there's a few little patches of rust, where the top of the guards bolt to the cab on both sides and a pin hole in the rear cab corner. That'll hopefully be all the rust in the cab done, then I can start on the transmission tunnel.
    2 points
  16. Ooh, just seen this now. I'll be keen to bring the 240 if you still need a display car
    1 point
  17. The externally adjustable konis need a fatter crush tube where it passes through the top hat. Because I'm a jew and didn't want to buy new ones I got some crush tubes off the radius arms and shortened them. The rear shocks are nearly ready to go in. I also did a couple of small things today, Fitted some more clips on the brake lines and put the rotor retaining screws in I made a bit more clearance between the gearbox and body, hopefully it hits less now. Time will tell. I'll be able to see exactly where it is hitting now that its got a quick coat of paint thrown at it. Yes its sfa clearance now but its not touching now which is better than before Power steer pump etc all in and hopefully bled
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. The brand new water units we had did the double start thing, if that's what you mean by hard to start? From memory our ones also had 12V glow on our 24V system, and used 50% PWM to drop the V. This will read higher if you're using a standard Digital Voltage Meter, unless it has a true RMS feature (e.g. good quality Fluke meter) or an oscilloscope. Our units had a platinum/palladium catalyst gauze around the glow plugs. Pic of resistor? I don't recall anything like that in ours, I'd have to dig up the photos. Our units had a standing load of around 65W for the water pump, and would throttle from 10% to 100% at run (~130W). We would see mid-200W during start (double peak over ~ a minute or two) and stop/clean, and one time saw 320W (I suspect it was heating both glow plugs, that time).
    1 point
  20. this is the engine bay in its current state i mean it looks alright i am getting somewhere at least right right? i think i am loosing my mind i got too sort out about 11 more items and ill attempt to get it all certed and road legal
    1 point
  21. So the Swap Meet starts at 7am but realistically I don't think most of us want to leave Auckland at 5:45am on a Sunday in order to be there at the start time. How about meeting at the BP in Drury at 8am? Even with the alternate routes we will still arrive in Hamilton and at the Swap Meet before 10am. That gives us a good couple of hours of browsing before heading off to Midnight Upholstery at around lunch time.
    1 point
  22. I went to vtnz with my Safari and they moved the VIN tag from the body to the chassis..I don't even think it cost any money.
    1 point
  23. Not much to update, finally got the car home from my old work. Downside of quitting is no longer being able to park the car up there and use their shop at will. Oh, well, better job now which gives me more time and money to be working on it. Forgot to upload this earlier. But it's amazing how small this thing is. When I parked in the garage, this is how low the roof line sits compared to my lowered WRX roofline. I do have a question, I already asked it to no avail, but for people who have removed their rear 1/4 windows (furthest ones back on the car on the sides), do the seals pull out? or are their clips holding them in place? I've got some rust work I need to do on the driver's side and I want to pull the glass, but don't want to risk damaging the seal, or glass in doing so. I also need to do the hatch glass as well. Can someone provide some insight so I can get working on that?
    1 point
  24. so. I thought we should do a weekend meet since we haven't done one in forever..... next meet Sunday the 30th
    1 point
  25. Six months of wof all used up. Had a good four months use out of it. Had next to zero issues in that time. I had to swap out fuel filter when it starting running like a bag of dicks after getting fuel in Hahei and had some tyres fitted in Auckland after the tread disappeared. That's it! According to the speedo I've put 6000kms on it in that time (I'd say it's closer to 5000 though). I took it to Leadfoot and then to Rotary Reunion in February. At some stage soon I'll put some new shocks in the front and lose some height. I've got some clips sitting in Sydney to put the sill trims on and yeah I'm fairly happy with it currently. Pics Courtesy of Snoozin Courtesy of MichaelJFox And a pic of the daily cos it's too new and boring for a thread. JZX110W with a 1JZ-faeces, 18x9/10 work emotions and BC BR series adjustable coilovers.
    1 point
  26. I was waiting for the long weekend to cross some bigger jobs off the list and managed to! - Put good dash pad in - Cleaned and painted instrument cluster - Cleaned and rust killed floors and etch painted, sealed up screw holes and seams, rubber bungs in - Cleaned and painted glovebox hinge panel (left as much as I could of the factory sticker with key info and tyre pressure/fuel chart) - Made covers for the rear wheel arches, lower B pillars and exposed parts of the floor the carpet does not cover with some patterned plastic sheet - Painted dash top and the area under the rear screen which are visible. - New carpets - Vinyl died seats. Don't know how long it will last but we will see. The cans sprayed too narrow so I emptied them into spray gun and got a great even application. - Put stereo in properly - Epoxy glued splits in the centre console - Factory accelator pedal back on Still need to make a shifter boot and pick up another demister vent from a mate.
    1 point
  27. Hey guys, this is now our April monthly meet. See you Saturday! Facebook event: https://www.facebook.com/events/445410595792034/?ti=as
    1 point
  28. I pulled a front spring right before Nats to see if a Makita drop would work, but no-go. The lower spring pan is a bolt-on so could possibly be lowered that way, but I was out of time. I've now removed the upper tailgate and glass (those little screws were holding the glass in place) The tailgate is from the previous model, so this lock isn't needed on this car It's a little rusty but way way better than the original one for the car.
    1 point
  29. So I made up a parts bath using a big old plastic container and mixing 50/50 degreaser-water and letting parts go swim for a day or so then water blast them and tooth brush clean them. Today I did the bellhousing, the gearbox outer casings, tail shaft housing and rocker covers are soaking at the moment. After a clean, has come up pretty good! I then set onto installing the new clutch fork assembly. Using all new OEM parts gives the peace of mind that everything will be all nice and dandy. Strange, can't get the fork clips new from Japan but found them on https://partsouq.com/ so that was good. The ones I had spare were all rusty. Clean backside/booty. always nice. I dummy fitted the new bolts to make sure I had them all. Found that I was missing the starter motor bolts so those will be added next to the OEM order which is already 20 items long. Not the most interesting update... but the next one will be the head install Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52401-pbaines-1971-toyota-corolla-ke25/&page=2
    1 point
  30. gasser Its way less finished than it looks
    1 point
  31. Got the tray and cab back on. Plenty of room for the exhaust to go out between the chassis rails and guards. The cab was sitting slightly on the driveshaft hoop, so cut a hole and made a patch. Then cut a big hole in the floor!
    1 point
  32. Dunno what yours sounded like went it went, but by golly when truck ones go at 300kpa you firmly attach yourself to the seat via sphincter muscles
    1 point
  33. Longest exhaust build ever! What a stupid idea it was to design it like this haha. So far has 5 pairs of flanges on each side if you include the ones at the end of the headers. Will have another pair after the diff as well. Got some flexi's and welded them in, as well as the rest of it. Need to put the tray back on now and see where the rest of the exhaust can run out the back. Made some mounts, after making them incorrectly to start with. Had the rubber hanging under tension where-as it should be compressing, otherwise it would most likely tear the rubber in half. Also made some gussets for the 4 link brackets since they didn't quite look strong enough. Might make some to tie in the other side as well. Need to make a start on the fuel tank soon. Any recommendations on an in-tank fuel pump to use? Don't really know much about them, 255LPH should be enough? Tank will be about 220mm deep if that matters.
    1 point
  34. Manged to squeeze in a panhard rod today. may need a few tweaks, but should work. Will leave it half finished till get the coilovers mounted, to make sure everything works together bit hectic under there, yep.
    1 point
  35. I've always been one to have a project or two on the go. Then there's the ones still in the "planning stage" i.e. they only exist in your imagination. Well there's nothing like a deadline you cannot negotiate an extension on (Christmas), and kids would have to be the toughest of all the negotiators to deal with! So when I foolishly thought out loud 3 days before Christmas about an idea I had - that may or may not work??? ...well the pressure to deliver was all on! So: String line and inclinometer dusted off Holes dug, posts in, concrete mixed and poured. Guy wires, main cable tensioned and clamped (that sentence sounded flippant-ly easy... this was a challenge) I had three bits of wire rope. The longest was 50m, so this became the bit between the two posts. I then machined up a connecting rod for each side, that hooks up to the guy wires. Complicated solution...but it enabled me to get the longest span with the free wire rope I was given. Its designed to slip, so tension remains the same in all components. I used basic trigonometry to calculate the forces involved. But if my theory is true, then it should all be good. So I'd call it a success. Now 4 months old and still working well Kj
    1 point
  36. ok, cleaned up all the wiring, replaced the lighting relay, and the indicator relay, led indicators got added to front and back, the rear light has them built in, but they were a little to close together for my liking, old front ones were shit, so got replaced as well, have added waterproof plugs for the new digital speedo thats on the way from the fatherland. so that'll just be a matter of adding the plugs to the speedo loom and she'll be plug and play. had to also replace the ignition switch, from last time some little chavy prick tried to steal it ummm balanced the carbs, need to order a front brake switch, hobble together some sort of front mud guard, and she'll be good to go for a mot (wof) i think ill go for a fang tomorrow and do a oil and filter change, i also have a leaking final drive, so that'll have to be fixed at some point glory shots
    1 point
  37. Nothing too exciting going on with this. just working my way through all the stuff in the way, to get the extra up travel. Driver side engine mount got chopped off and new one made higher up to clear the top link. Alternator had to go as well. will use a fwd bracket to move it up. a new inlet on the water pump should make it work with the rwd pump. Last thing giving me drama is one of the steering links and the the sump. if can get another 30mm clearance between the 2, this will be max up travel on bumpstops. kinda lost count but got around 3 inch more up travel than the leaves other than that just been welding... bottom chassis link mounts are on for good. i forgot to drill the lightweight hole in this one. Crossmember was way too much to weld with tig, and was to lazy to drive an hour to my old boys to use mig. Arc it was. still got a little work to go on it
    1 point
  38. The exhaust has been pissing me off, muffler hangs low and catches the train track crossing and some driveways. Where it was, was about 3 inch forward of the floor recess under the rear seat, and would hit the body under max gear grabbing. So I cut it out and added a couple of inches from the back, to the front and that set it in the gap where I was happy. Had to move the hanger bracket too. Some slag burnt my moustache so all I can smell is burnt hair, it's average.
    1 point
  39. In the weekend I fixed the divot in the roof. There was a high ridge in the back corner and at the time I decided it was more work than I wanted to do to fix it so left it. But something was crook and it got bigger after paint. so evened that out and sprayed it, also did under the bonnet, sides of bonnet and the inner guards and upper firewall. Could see the primer in the bonnet gap and it was bugging me. And GC nosco me his double sided tape so lobbed on the pillar badges. I toyed with the idea of centralising them and moving them up ala mazda, but went with the factory placement in the end. Im onto the final deluxe badge for the boot, will be a box of Woodstocks if it's right.
    1 point
  40. Got some more thinners and got the front under bonnet/boot painted next.tried to get a good coverage on everything.over the years many stone chips had done a number on the paint under the arches.one more wire wheel dead.had a crack at heat shrinking some of the mess I'd made of the front quarter, worked a wee bit, stopped it popping in and out so easy.bog time!I spent Monday, Tuesday and Wendnesday night last week from about 9pm once the kids were sorted and the next day organized, sanding, sanding and sanding till about 1 or 2 am.And finally on Thursday night.a bit of etch.followed by...just the engine bay and the front valance to prime.but that will have to wait till it's off the spit as I still need to spot weld the bonnet seal strip on both valances as the frame it's bolted to is in the way.still needs heaps of work, found a few dips and bumps after the paint went on, needs lots of sandpaper marks filled in/sanded out, but I should be able to do the seam sealing and smash some red on the bum soon!
    1 point
  41. Still chipping away. spare dash I got was still supple on every side but top. Will swap that over at Easter I think, could be a bitch to get in and out in a rush. managed to find a deluxe badge!! Was pretty decent so cleaned and painted. Will stick on this week. have another one, a script badge and some US spec red tail light lenses on their way over. scored a brand new carpet set for $150..its bright red but I'll dye it black. boot badge acquired and installed.
    1 point
  42. Went out to buy some resonators, realised how overpriced for how simple they are, so decided to make my own. Rolled up some perforated sheet, wrapped in stainless steel wool and fibreglass strand. Will probably make another couple to put in behind the diff, which hopefully will make it reasonably quiet. It's a real shame no-one is going to see underneath here once it's done.
    1 point
  43. Merry Xmas! The latest Stacked/Moonlight container arrived just in time for the festive season, and so did my shiny new AW11 Recaro seat rails. When Xmas morning dawned bright and early I busied myself in the shed, and eventually ended up with this: Not many people realize that you can swap the centre fabrics around on just about any Recaro L-series seat as long as the bases match - I cobbled these together from a pair of good Lancer GSR LX-B seats that I bought off Dirk about six or seven years ago, and a pair of munted BF Familia Infini LS-Bs that still had relatively good centres. It's a pretty time consuming process if you're being careful to re-attach all the hog rings and trying not to rip or damage anything. Thinking back to when I originally assembled them it probably took a good hour and a half per side. As you can see, the effort was worth it. They're surprisingly comfortable, have just the right amount of firmness in the padding, and are much more supportive than the factory AW11 seats. Plus as an added bonus - the eye-watering red stripes are totally '80s spec and stay in line with the character of the car. Next I'll probably have to give them a good scrub to make the red fabric really pop against the blue exterior. N.B. if anyone is wondering what the Recaro LX and LS guff is all about, I direct your attention to the following image: Discuss: http://oldschool.co....1-sc-chit-chat/
    1 point
  44. Pulled and done. Gotta build up the sides now. Reason I didn't tape cardboard onto the bonnet before making the mild is I've done that before and it lecked under, then when I tried to pull it there was to much of a lip and it cracked the mold. I've started masking it up and I'll go around the build up the edges. Being such a flat panel it's got quite a bit of flex so I'll flip it over and sit it back on the plug and fix some tiber to the back of it. For that ive picked up some 10mmx60mm stuff you use for the finishing of the bottom of walls
    1 point
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